Hello
I've a Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit on a MazdaSpeed 3 2012. So far working great with the exception of the Phone Steering Wheel Controls. Those are supposed to work with some "dirty tricks" and special cabling. Somebody was able to make it work but the copy&paste of the instructions by Dasaita was a disaster...
Has anybody been able to set that up to work? Or does anybody by chance knows where can I get the schematics of the cabling of the original car Bluetooth unit to see if I can figure it out?
Thanks !!!
Max
Do you have can bus?
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ikerg said:
Do you have can bus?
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Yes, the CanBus decoder came with the device. Volume/Mode/Next-Previous work OK. Is the phone functions (Answer/Hang-up/Voice command) the ones that do not work.
Max
When you have can bus installed...the learning SWC app does not work as the buttons are predefined by the can bus.
Which can bus options have you set up on the factory settings?
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As i remember when I was investigating about how to connect my Mazda cx5 to a MTCD without can bus i realized that key 1 and key2 had to be connected to two different pins into Mazda connector.
Key1 enabled volume&track buttons...and key2 enabled phone buttons...let me check if I have some information about that in order you could check it.
Which other car functionalities enables your can bus apart the swc?
Check this photo
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Perhaps you can wire directly your key1 and key2 directly to the head unit bypassing the can bus (as in Mazdas the signals are resistive and detected by head unit and they can be remapped to the android functions you want by SWC learning app)
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Do you have to connect Key2 to the pin in the ISO port?
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What I am.saying is that he has to check the wires. Key 1 and key2 shall be connected to the head unit...direclty or by canbus
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I'm not sure how it can be connected directly to the head unit? Are there any schematics?
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Sassokee said:
I'm not sure how it can be connected directly to the head unit? Are there any schematics?
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
You have an adhesive with the schematics for the connectors on the head unit.
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ikerg said:
As i remember when I was investigating about how to connect my Mazda cx5 to a MTCD without can bus i realized that key 1 and key2 had to be connected to two different pins into Mazda connector.
Perhaps you can wire directly your key1 and key2 directly to the head unit bypassing the can bus (as in Mazdas the signals are resistive and detected by head unit and they can be remapped to the android functions you want by SWC learning app)
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the info !!!
So, haven't had time yet to check it, but I'm almost sure the unit had the CanBus connections and the 2 cables labeled Key1 and Key2 floating arround (without any connector). So, you suggest that I use the picture to check which cable is Key1/Key2 on the car side and connect them directly instead of connecting them to the CanBus decoder, right?
Which app do you suggest for the learning/controlling? There's one that came with the Stock SW (Malasyk), but that didn't seem to work (now I understand why, there was nothing to learn, the CanBus controller is doing all the work)
Also, if I connect only Key2, should that work?
Thanks in advance
Max
maxiauer said:
Thanks for the info !!!
So, haven't had time yet to check it, but I'm almost sure the unit had the CanBus connections and the 2 cables labeled Key1 and Key2 floating arround (without any connector). So, you suggest that I use the picture to check which cable is Key1/Key2 on the car side and connect them directly instead of connecting them to the CanBus decoder, right?
Which app do you suggest for the learning/controlling? There's one that came with the Stock SW (Malasyk), but that didn't seem to work (now I understand why, there was nothing to learn, the CanBus controller is doing all the work)
Also, if I connect only Key2, should that work?
Thanks in advance
Max
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try with key2 only to check if works because it seems that key1 should be used by can bus (if not you will not have volume/track controls)
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I found that I needed to connect my 2009 Mazda 6 to Eincar head unit as follows:
EINCAR - SW1 goes to Mazda SW1
Eincar - SW2 left unconnected
Mazda SW2 connected to car chassis ground
The steering wheel resistor/switch network in my car had no ground connection, but the head unit was monitoring resistance to ground to detect button pushes. With no ground connection it always read infinite resistance and did nothing.
ikerg said:
As i remember when I was investigating about how to connect my Mazda cx5 to a MTCD without can bus i realized that key 1 and key2 had to be connected to two different pins into Mazda connector.
Key1 enabled volume&track buttons...and key2 enabled phone buttons...let me check if I have some information about that in order you could check it.
Which other car functionalities enables your can bus apart the swc?
Check this photo
Perhaps you can wire directly your key1 and key2 directly to the head unit bypassing the can bus (as in Mazdas the signals are resistive and detected by head unit and they can be remapped to the android functions you want by SWC learning app)
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I can't figure out which are the connectors for Key1 and Key2 as the quality of the image is very poor, do you have any better image? I tried googling but couldn't find any better..
There are wires connected to the Mazda radio harness for Key1 and Key2, Key2 is actually ground.. Do I need to cut those and connect the ones that are loose in the head unit?
Thins is really confusing and all the Chinese sellers are very unhelpful probably because of the language barrier...
As the OP mentioned it, it's mainly for the phone buttons (Answer, hang up, speech) as I want to use them too...
If someone has a schematic (Even lines drawn in MS Paint just to make it clear), that would be great.
Thanks
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If anyone has information regarding this, that would be great, I spent the last couple of days googling this to no avail... From what I understood, all needs to be connected is Key 1 from the head unit to Key 1 in the car radio harness and the same for Key2, then I would be able to remap all the steering wheel buttons including the Bluetooth buttons.
What I don't understand is that the Key1 and Key2 on the car radio harness already have wires connected to them from the head unit side, those wires are going to the CanBUS decoder, can I just cut the 2 wires and connect Key1 and Key2 to them?
@ikerg, you seem to be experienced with this, can you please clarify/confirm it?
Thanks
Sassokee said:
If anyone has information regarding this, that would be great, I spent the last couple of days googling this to no avail... From what I understood, all needs to be connected is Key 1 from the head unit to Key 1 in the car radio harness and the same for Key2, then I would be able to remap all the steering wheel buttons including the Bluetooth buttons.
What I don't understand is that the Key1 and Key2 on the car radio harness already have wires connected to them from the head unit side, those wires are going to the CanBUS decoder, can I just cut the 2 wires and connect Key1 and Key2 to them?
@ikerg, you seem to be experienced with this, can you please clarify/confirm it?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Key1 and key2 are needed for swc control and for retrieving can bus information.
Obviously if you have a can bus connected to your headunits....that wires are already used by can bus.
Try first by removing the can bus.. if all your SWC buttons are responding on the headunit
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ikerg said:
Key1 and key2 are needed for swc control and for retrieving can bus information.
Obviously if you have a can bus connected to your headunits....that wires are already used by can bus.
Try first by removing the can bus.. if all your SWC buttons are responding on the headunit
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Click to collapse
Thanks, I will try that and see how it is, but I guess I would lose other features from the CanBUS (Illumination, Reverse trigger for the camera)?
I will probably try to post on a Mazda 3 forum to see if people have information about it. Do you think Key1 is the 5V from the head unit and Key2 is GND?
I will try to unplug the head unit, use a multimeter and press the buttons to see if I get any readings, I will update this here.
From what I understood, you removed your CanBUS decoder and hard wired everything on your Mazda right? Can you please tell me more details about which wires you connected other than Key1 and Key2?
Thanks in advance, you are very helpful.
Sassokee said:
Thanks, I will try that and see how it is, but I guess I would lose other features from the CanBUS (Illumination, Reverse trigger for the camera)?
I will probably try to post on a Mazda 3 forum to see if people have information about it. Do you think Key1 is the 5V from the head unit and Key2 is GND?
I will try to unplug the head unit, use a multimeter and press the buttons to see if I get any readings, I will update this here.
From what I understood, you removed your CanBUS decoder and hard wired everything on your Mazda right? Can you please tell me more details about which wires you connected other than Key1 and Key2?
Thanks in advance, you are very helpful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had first a MTCD without can bus...so I connected the key1 and key2 wires properly to specific pins into the Mazda adapter and it worked.
Then I realized that I needed a can bus for reverse signal....so I bought a Pac rp4-mz11. Even not necessary it converts as well the swc signal to standard brand SWC signal...and it worked
On my last head unit (specific for Mazda cx5) it comes with can bus and it was a plug and play procedure....everything works as expected.
I have only one button that it is not preasigned...and I had to assign ton an action by mtcdtools.
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ikerg said:
I had first a MTCD without can bus...so I connected the key1 and key2 wires properly to specific pins into the Mazda adapter and it worked.
Then I realized that I needed a can bus for reverse signal....so I bought a Pac rp4-mz11. Even not necessary it converts as well the swc signal to standard brand SWC signal...and it worked
On my last head unit (specific for Mazda cx5) it comes with can bus and it was a plug and play procedure....everything works as expected.
I have only one button that it is not preasigned...and I had to assign ton an action by mtcdtools.
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Click to collapse
As I have a CanBUS decoder with my head unit and the multimedia buttons work OK, do you think I can assign the Bluetooth buttons using MTCDTools? The SWC learning app with the Malaysk rom doesn't seem to detect any button when pressed... But the multimedia buttons are pre-assigned I guess from the CanBUS.
Thanks
ikerg said:
I had first a MTCD without can bus...so I connected the key1 and key2 wires properly to specific pins into the Mazda adapter and it worked.
Then I realized that I needed a can bus for reverse signal....so I bought a Pac rp4-mz11. Even not necessary it converts as well the swc signal to standard brand SWC signal...and it worked
On my last head unit (specific for Mazda cx5) it comes with can bus and it was a plug and play procedure....everything works as expected.
I have only one button that it is not preasigned...and I had to assign ton an action by mtcdtools.
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Click to collapse
I tried MTCDTools, it doesn't seem to recognize any buttons press, so I guess the only way is to remove the CanBUS decoder and wire everything up, I guess I can still use wires for REVERSE and ILLUMINATION from the head unit to the Mazda radio harness?
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Sassokee said:
I tried MTCDTools, it doesn't seem to recognize any buttons press, so I guess the only way is to remove the CanBUS decoder and wire everything up, I guess I can still use wires for REVERSE and ILLUMINATION from the head unit to the Mazda radio harness?
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
He reverse signal, at least on my cx5, is coded (no resistive) so I needed can bus for getting signal
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Related
I just bought a Joying Steering Wheel control radio. I got the 10.1" but I assume they all are similar. My question is, what type of input is the radio looking for to get the steering wheel controls to work? I have a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am. I had a Pumpkin Android radio and it had a Key1 and Steering Wheel Ground. I purchased a Pac SWI unit that connected to my car steering wheel wire. I set it for Pioneer, then used a 3.5mm jack from radio shack to connect to the PAC SWI with one wire to Key 1 and the other to steering wheel ground. It worked great. I tried this same technique on the Joying Stereo which doesn't have a steering wheel ground so I went straight to regular ground. It of course didnt' work. Are joying radios looking for a change in resistance, change in voltage? Does anyone know any adapters like the PAC that will output what the Joying wants to see?
I tried Joying customer service. They're very friendly but worthless. I couldn't find anything searching the net either.
Thanks in advance for the help!
TransAmMan said:
I just bought a Joying Steering Wheel control radio. I got the 10.1" but I assume they all are similar. My question is, what type of input is the radio looking for to get the steering wheel controls to work? I have a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am. I had a Pumpkin Android radio and it had a Key1 and Steering Wheel Ground. I purchased a Pac SWI unit that connected to my car steering wheel wire. I set it for Pioneer, then used a 3.5mm jack from radio shack to connect to the PAC SWI with one wire to Key 1 and the other to steering wheel ground. It worked great. I tried this same technique on the Joying Stereo which doesn't have a steering wheel ground so I went straight to regular ground. It of course didnt' work. Are joying radios looking for a change in resistance, change in voltage? Does anyone know any adapters like the PAC that will output what the Joying wants to see?
I tried Joying customer service. They're very friendly but worthless. I couldn't find anything searching the net either.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't matter what Chinese brand you buy. They all have resistive inputs. As you wrote Key1 for left side and Key2 for right side and ground.
If your car has can-bus SWC you need to go here and get what you need. e.g axxessinterfaces.com or Crutchfield. There's a specific interface cable for
Chinese head-units.
halloj said:
It doesn't matter what Chinese brand you buy. They all have resistive inputs. As you wrote Key1 for left side and Key2 for right side and ground.
If your car has can-bus SWC you need to here and get what you need. e.g axxessinterfaces.com or Crutchfield. There's a specific interface cable for
Chinese head-units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the quick response. So if it's just a resistive input, do I just hook my two connections from my PAC SWI to Key 1 and Key 2 so that way the resistance change goes across those two connections?
TransAmMan said:
Thanks for the quick response. So if it's just a resistive input, do I just hook my two connections from my PAC SWI to Key 1 and Key 2 so that way the resistance change goes across those two connections?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update. I got it to work. So from my 99 Trans Am, I hooked the single steering wheel wire up to the PAC unit. It's the SWI-RC. I set it and programmed it for a Pioneer radio but I don't think it matters. The output is a 3.5mm headphone style plug. I bought a 3.5mm jack from radio shack and soldered wires to the large connector and the top one. One wire goes to Key 1, the other to Key 2. Programs and works perfect!
TransAmMan said:
Update. I got it to work. So from my 99 Trans Am, I hooked the single steering wheel wire up to the PAC unit. It's the SWI-RC. I set it and programmed it for a Pioneer radio but I don't think it matters. The output is a 3.5mm headphone style plug. I bought a 3.5mm jack from radio shack and soldered wires to the large connector and the top one. One wire goes to Key 1, the other to Key 2. Programs and works perfect!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Time to buy a lottery ticket.
Man, what are the chances for my XDA PAC search to turn this thread up?!?! I too have a Trans Am (2000) with Joying headunit and had problems getting the PAC to work with it last night. I have Key1 hooked up to the PAC output wire and didn't work, but I also had my PAC set to "other".
Since you have the same car, just to make sure, you have your PAC programmed for "1", dial on side of it set to "pioneer", right?
I'm going to get a female 3.5mm jack today. I'm confused on what you mean by the large connector and the top one. Could you please explain?
InfiniteReality said:
Man, what are the chances for my XDA PAC search to turn this thread up?!?! I too have a Trans Am (2000) with Joying headunit and had problems getting the PAC to work with it last night. I have Key1 hooked up to the PAC output wire and didn't work, but I also had my PAC set to "other".
Since you have the same car, just to make sure, you have your PAC programmed for "1", dial on side of it set to "pioneer", right?
I'm going to get a female 3.5mm jack today. I'm confused on what you mean by the large connector and the top one. Could you please explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a 2nd Joying radio and will be installing it in my other Trans am this weekend. I intend to put together a very detailed 'how to' video when I do the steering wheel control part. I was amazed that there was very little info out there on how to hook it up. When you get your connector, you'll see 3 terminals on in. One is very large and sort of wraps around backwards towards the plug. When you plug your 3.5mm plug from the PAC, you'll see the tip touches this part of the jack. You solder 1 wire to that long connector. There's a small tab opposite the large. You solder the 2nd wire to that one. Now all you have to do is hook up the 2 wires from the jack you just soldered to Key 1 and Key 2. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which one. Any other questions, feel free to ask!
You said your jack had 3 terminals, but you talked about 2 wires plus the key 1 and key 2 wires. Where is 4th wire? Also where are the first 2 wires coming from? 1 has to be from the cars steering wheel wire but the other?
I actually have a 3.5mm jack laying around but they have wires on them. I cut the end off and have white, red and yellow.
Sorry for the questions and really appreciate the help and the future how to video. Still random as many vehicles on the road someone with same car and headunit knows how to get it to work. Thanks!
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I had to quickly sketch it out in CAD to follow it, I was confusing myself, lol. Now I'm following, sounds like you only use 2 of the 3 terminals or maybe the 3rd needs to be ground or just don't connect it?
I'm going to pick up a female 3.5mm plug from radio shack after work. This is what I plan to get.
https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...-stereo-in-line-audio-jack?variant=5717422981
You can just do this:
pounce said:
You can just do this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it really that simple??? It does make perfect sense since it looks for resistance and can program buttons in setup
InfiniteReality said:
Is it really that simple??? It does make perfect sense since it looks for resistance and can program buttons in setup
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. That simple.
pounce said:
Yup. That simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heck yeah! I know what I'll be doing when I get home. Thanks!
InfiniteReality said:
I had to quickly sketch it out in CAD to follow it, I was confusing myself, lol. Now I'm following, sounds like you only use 2 of the 3 terminals or maybe the 3rd needs to be ground or just don't connect it?
I'm going to pick up a female 3.5mm plug from radio shack after work. This is what I plan to get.
https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...-stereo-in-line-audio-jack?variant=5717422981
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late reply. Your sketch looks correct. Here's my youtube video showing the install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45t9-meX5qY
TransAmMan said:
Sorry for the late reply. Your sketch looks correct. Here's my youtube video showing the install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45t9-meX5qY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries. I tried simply hooking the OEM steering wheel wire to Key1, but still didn't work.
Thanks for the video, very much appreciated! You are the man!!
InfiniteReality said:
No worries. I tried simply hooking the OEM steering wheel wire to Key1, but still didn't work.
Thanks for the video, very much appreciated! You are the man!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to connect the key wire AND the ground from the harness. Resistive systems are two wires. Your ground is probably floating.
pounce said:
You have to connect the key wire AND the ground from the harness. Resistive systems are two wires. Your ground is probably floating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Steering wheel wire & ground wire from the OEM harness were connected to Key1 & ground on HU harness. Is that what you mean?
InfiniteReality said:
Steering wheel wire & ground wire from the OEM harness were connected to Key1 & ground on HU harness. Is that what you mean?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are two wires that make up the system used for the steering wheel buttons. The diagram was simplistic and showed only one wire from the harness to the adapter that you bypassed. If you truly have only one wire and your adapter was only connected to one wire that would be weird.
Assume that there are two wires coming out of your trans am wiring harness for the resistive buttons. Connect the wire that is probably white and green to Key1. Ground the other wire to the ground from the head unit to the ground on the vehicle. That would result in 3 wires being connected together for ground.
Basically, when a button is pushed you are connecting power to ground. If your ground for the button is floating then you cant measure the resistance of the button in the head unit. Nothing is happening.
If you have all that working and its not working...did you program the buttons in settings?
pounce said:
There are two wires that make up the system used for the steering wheel buttons. The diagram was simplistic and showed only one wire from the harness to the adapter that you bypassed. If you truly have only one wire and your adapter was only connected to one wire that would be weird.
Assume that there are two wires coming out of your trans am wiring harness for the resistive buttons. Connect the wire that is probably white and green to Key1. Ground the other wire to the ground from the head unit to the ground on the vehicle. That would result in 3 wires being connected together for ground.
Basically, when a button is pushed you are connecting power to ground. If your ground for the button is floating then you cant measure the resistance of the button in the head unit. Nothing is happening.
If you have all that working and its not working...did you program the buttons in settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Unless I'm mistaken, the Trans Am OEM harness only has 1 wire for steering wheel controls and there are no more wires that aren't connected from that harness. Wouldn't it be better to hook it up as you suggested OEM 1 wire to Key1 and then just ground Key2?
InfiniteReality said:
Thanks for the reply. Unless I'm mistaken, the Trans Am OEM harness only has 1 wire for steering wheel controls and there are no more wires that aren't connected from that harness. Wouldn't it be better to hook it up as you suggested OEM 1 wire to Key1 and then just ground Key2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't tie key2 to anything. Its for a second button control set if you have one. You don't have one.
Did you state the year of your car?
Here is the install for for an ASWC-1 adapter for 1999 (like the op). You can use this to cheat on getting the wiring right.
http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/12425.pdf
If you have this year or this applies double check you have attached to pin 14 wire. Assuming you had an aswc of some sort and it worked you are probably ok using the wire it used (as long as its not acc or ground of course).
If you have another year you can look up the install guide to get the wiring instructions or check your service manual.
http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=19
What's telling you that they way you have it wired isn't working?
Anyone successfully installed joying to Mitsubishi Lancer/Outlander 2007-2012 with rockford to have armrest USB, SWC and stock Mitsubishi camera working?
Please post information (preferably with links) which wires and connectors did you order. I am struggling with many no-name connectors available in car-audio stores and they don't work...
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers Legacy app
juniorkm7 said:
Anyone successfully installed joying to Mitsubishi Lancer/Outlander 2007-2012 with rockford to have armrest USB, SWC and stock Mitsubishi camera working?
Please post information (preferably with links) which wires and connectors did you order. I am struggling with many no-name connectors available in car-audio stores and they don't work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might have to trace wires and build your own harness
does anyone know which canbus decoder will work with Joying 124N2 and Mitsubishi Rockford amp?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers Legacy app
I have a suzuki kizashi which also HAD a fosgate system in at one point very similar to that of the mitsu.
though I now run an aftermarket amp, I'm still using the factory wiring and just spliced in to the harness of the fosgate system for the amp outputs but also wiring between the headunit and amp location.
I am not running any of the factory fosgate anymore, just using the wiring.
lucky for me I had another user already do a similar mod, and had every wire in the car decoded and documented so splicing the 20 or so wires wasn't too bad.
this looks like it may work for you
https://aerpro.com/chmb1c
and
https://aerpro.com/camt01
I have to say though, the fosgate systems don't sound all that great without the original headunit as you lose the factory EQ they put in the headunit, isn't an issue anymore since i run an outboard DSP and Amp.
OK I have finally installed the Joying Head Unit with a help of a friend who is Mitsubishi freak and knows everything about every cable and fuse in the car. To make it work I needed to buy additionally MITO-02 adapter and USB adapter for armrest located port. SWC is easy -connect KEY1 cable from Joying harness to one of the MITO-02 wires (brown-sky blue) cutting isolation a bit and plugging this cable to create some T connection.
The only concern for now is that the radio doesn't turn on and off with ignition. Stays on all the time. Any ideas how to change it? I was thinking on swithching cables ACC to 12V+ and vice versa. Will it work?
Hello,I have a SEAT IBIZA 6L(2002 to 2008) and that model don't have canbus.
I need to use Steering Wheel Control Interface and I need your recomendation for my car.
I attach a image for my central dashboard.
Thanks a lot
Adrián
Polloloko said:
Hello,I have a SEAT IBIZA 6L(2002 to 2008) and that model don't have canbus.
I need to use Steering Wheel Control Interface and I need your recomendation for my car.
I attach a image for my central dashboard.
Thanks a lot
Adrián
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need a universal model (and perhaps a frame adapter if your headunit fit is not a standard double din size) . Check on dasaita (Aliexpress) for the px5 Android 6 version.
Your steering wheel controls will be kept as they are resistive. You have to assign functions to each key into specific headunit app
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ikerg said:
Your steering wheel controls will be kept as they are resistive. You have to assign functions to each key into specific headunit app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But some cars needs a special harness because I dont have canbus in my car.With my last radio of Alpine I need a harness to work with the steering wheel control.
Thanks
Common brands of headunits (Alpine, pioneer, Sony...) support specific resistance for the steering wheel signals. The can bus you mention converts the resistive ot coded signal (not in your case) into specific signal to be read by that brands.
The Android headunit I mentioned can grab the resistive signal (any).
In the case your car has can-bus coded steering wheel buttons..you can use the same can bus you used for the Alpine and the Android headunit will grab the signals coming from your can-bus box
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ikerg said:
Common brands of headunits (Alpine, pioneer, Sony...) support specific resistance for the steering wheel signals. The can bus you mention converts the resistive ot coded signal (not in your case) into specific signal to be read by that brands.
The Android headunit I mentioned can grab the resistive signal (any).
In the case your car has can-bus coded steering wheel buttons..you can use the same can bus you used for the Alpine and the Android headunit will grab the signals coming from your can-bus box
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Finally I bought a Erisin ES5086V https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Erisin-ES5086V-7-Car-GPS-8-Core-Android6-0-DAB-Radio-for-Passat-Polo-Jetta-Seat/32812973576.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.srxxFJ that is similar of Dasaita and send it to Spain.
I think that model I can change the fw and update like dasaita or similars.
Ahi la tenias:
https://es.aliexpress.com/store/pro...Golf-Transporter-with/600991_32804802271.html
ikerg said:
Ahi la tenias:
https://es.aliexpress.com/store/pro...Golf-Transporter-with/600991_32804802271.html
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Si pero por si acaso esa viene de China ( con su riesgo de aduanas ) y la que pedí viene de UK ,al vivir yo en la UE no me cobran tasas.
Gracias y un saludo
ikerg said:
You need a universal model (and perhaps a frame adapter if your headunit fit is not a standard double din size) . Check on dasaita (Aliexpress) for the px5 Android 6 version.
Your steering wheel controls will be kept as they are resistive. You have to assign functions to each key into specific headunit app
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@ikerg some vendors tell me that I need that adapter/harness ( http://www.connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CTSST002.2 )
and other say that I don't adapter because the radio is also with Iso connector and can bus built in.
Thanks
Dont buy it at the moment.
Try the headunit when you receive it as it is.
If you can't use your steering wheel buttons, use the app to make the headunit learn the signals for steering wheel buttons.
If anything worked....then you have to buy a can-bus box.
But...if you still have your old can bus box you mentioned before (take some photos) you will (more than probably) to use it without buying anything else
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ikerg said:
Dont buy it at the moment.
Try the headunit when you receive it as it is.
If you can't use your steering wheel buttons, use the app to make the headunit learn the signals for steering wheel buttons.
If anything worked....then you have to buy a can-bus box.
But...if you still have your old can bus box you mentioned before (take some photos) you will (more than probably) to use it without buying anything else
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Ok when I receive the unit I try and I tell what happends.
Thanks a lot
ikerg said:
Dont buy it at the moment.
Try the headunit when you receive it as it is.
If you can't use your steering wheel buttons, use the app to make the headunit learn the signals for steering wheel buttons.
If anything worked....then you have to buy a can-bus box.
But...if you still have your old can bus box you mentioned before (take some photos) you will (more than probably) to use it without buying anything else
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I try to configure the butons with the app and try to configure but nothing works,the manual say yo Connect the two swc cables to anode and gnd to catode but not work or work bad.Any idea?
And another problem the unit not enter correctly in the car...I need to cut some plastics for the back of the console
I found that I needed to connect my Mazda 6 to Eincar head unit as follows:
EINCAR - SW1 goes to Mazda SW1
Eincar - SW2 left unconnected
Mazda SW2 connected to car chassis ground
The steering wheel resistor/switch network in my car had no ground connection, but the head unit was monitoring resistance to ground to detect button pushes. With no ground connection it always read infinite resistance and did nothing.
this was similar on my Honda.
From the Honda wiring harness, "REMOTE GND" (brown in my case) to ground; "REMOTE CTL" (green/red) to EinCar Key SW1 wire. EinCar Key SW2 wire left disconnected.
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
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I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
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Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
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The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
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It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
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I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
Hello,
I am installing my head unit and everything Canbus related work, such as door open, HVAC info and steering wheel control. However when I put my car into reverse, the head unit does not do anything at all. I tried swapping camera source plug into the AV-IN and the camera does have power and signal, but for some reason my head unit is not switching into reverse camera. Does anyone have any idea what I may be doing wrong?
Thank you
jfungy said:
Hello,
I am installing my head unit and everything Canbus related work, such as door open, HVAC info and steering wheel control. However when I put my car into reverse, the head unit does not do anything at all. I tried swapping camera source plug into the AV-IN and the camera does have power and signal, but for some reason my head unit is not switching into reverse camera. Does anyone have any idea what I may be doing wrong?
Thank you
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Ask seller/manufacturer....usually reverse signal comes from canbus.
Check your wires if reverse wire is connected to anywhere.
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ikerg said:
Ask seller/manufacturer....usually reverse signal comes from canbus.
Check your wires if reverse wire is connected to anywhere.
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Yup! I’ve asked them waiting for reply before I ask for a refund.
Hi what model do you have of stereo ?? To me the canbus does not work which you bought if you can mail the link thanks
Hello,
If you go on AliExpress and search Rav4 PX6 2016 it’s the only one.
Thank you
I went but canbus is not found, I took the kunfine px6 4gb 64gb
Venum83 said:
I went but canbus is not found, I took the kunfine px6 4gb 64gb
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Did you connect the two wire cable with a 6 or 8 pin connector together? These two wires branch from the canbus to the “power” harness of the head unit
jfungy said:
Did you connect the two wire cable with a 6 or 8 pin connector together? These two wires branch from the canbus to the “power” harness of the head unit
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Hi from the canbus I have 6 connectors 5 that connect exactly to the cables of the machine the last one that is left is a 4-wire branch of the rear-view camera connector.
Did you hit a photo of when you placed it?
Venum83 said:
I went but canbus is not found, I took the kunfine px6 4gb 64gb
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Venum83 said:
Hi from the canbus I have 6 connectors 5 that connect exactly to the cables of the machine the last one that is left is a 4-wire branch of the rear-view camera connector.
Did you hit a photo of when you placed it?
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I’m talking about this small connector with 6 pins however it only has two wires (orange and green) and from the black plug it’s the female version of the 6 pin connector and it has blue and white wires. I believe this powers the canbus.
I’m still having issues figuring out how to trigger reverse. Have you had any success contacting Kunfine, the seller?
jfungy said:
I’m talking about this small connector with 6 pins however it only has two wires (orange and green) and from the black plug it’s the female version of the 6 pin connector and it has blue and white wires. I believe this powers the canbus.
I’m still having issues figuring out how to trigger reverse. Have you had any success contacting Kunfine, the seller?
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I wrote to him in these days but he replies with a pre-established message that in short says that because of the coronavirus they do not leave the house and therefore to be patient.
Anyway I understood which wires you talk about yes I connected them but nothing, my radio to connect the canbus connector has a female female reducer which serves on one side to the canbus and on the other the connector of the radio, I think there are wrong cables in this passage
I found the schematics of the 28 pin connector and I managed to make the rear view camera work for the steering wheel controls I will take more time to avoid damage
Venum83 said:
I found the schematics of the 28 pin connector and I managed to make the rear view camera work for the steering wheel controls I will take more time to avoid damage
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Hello Venum83,
Would you be able to share how you got the camera to work? My camera physically has power and can output video when connected to AV-IN, but the head unit won’t go into reverse when I shift to R. Did you manage to solve that?
Thank you
Look the Pm
Venum83 said:
I found the schematics of the 28 pin connector and I managed to make the rear view camera work for the steering wheel controls I will take more time to avoid damage
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Hi Venum83,
Are you willing to share the solution that you applied?
thanks a lot
Had the exact same issue with my Kia Sorento, what I did to fix it was, take the Reverse Power cable that was not connected, and then added the power cable from the reverse camera, it worked like a charm, if you post pictures of your system I might be able to point it out for you. Took me less than 5 minutes. Same kunfine unit
diego9x said:
Had the exact same issue with my Kia Sorento, what I did to fix it was, take the Reverse Power cable that was not connected, and then added the power cable from the reverse camera, it worked like a charm, if you post pictures of your system I might be able to point it out for you. Took me less than 5 minutes. Same kunfine unit
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Hi thanks I solved it just like you say now the unit is perfect
Venum83 said:
Hi thanks I solved it just like you say now the unit is perfect
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Hi, i have a youmecity T8 and also the unit does not trigger, i connected the brown (back) wire to camera positive and car reverse 13v. Camera light is triggered upon reverse, but no video signal to the unit. if the video is plugged into aux-in it works in sync with the reverse