Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
Related
I bought a unit recently identified as Android 8802 https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-2-Din-Qu...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 . It only has a Key 1 wire. My car, '03 Volvo XC70, has 2 CANBUS wires in the harness, CanL, CanH. I did some reading and found that sometimes you can ground 1 of the wires and just use the other. I tried this both ways, ground L and connect H to Key 1 and, ground H and connect L to Key 1.
One of those combinations was BAD, no lights on dash and major oh sh!# moment. One of the combinations let me set the buttons for vol up/down and track forward/back BUT, after setting the last button and exiting the setup software whatever was the last function I setup would act like I was pressing the button continuously. Like if it was vol up it would just keep going up, up, up, up, up etc.
Has anyone else dealt with a HU that just had Key 1 and 2 BUS lines?
I think you would want/need a canbus adapter. I found this: https://volvoforums.com/forum/audio...ermarket-steering-wheel-radio-controls-57081/
Thanks for the link/info. I'm seeing a lot of "if" and "maybe" and the like. Nothing that is identified as The solution. I'd much rather try to understand how my unit, which has only 1 SWC wire (Key 1) is meant to be connected to cars to make it work.
I was thinking about joining both CanL and CanH to the Key 1 wire. I'm no EE but my assumption is that if they are both putting out variable voltages and resistances (one "low" and one "high") that combining them would just be sending the entire range of signals through the Key 1 wire to my HU for decoding by the on board s/w. Anyone see a red flag on that?
treojoew said:
Thanks for the link/info. I'm seeing a lot of "if" and "maybe" and the like. Nothing that is identified as The solution. I'd much rather try to understand how my unit, which has only 1 SWC wire (Key 1) is meant to be connected to cars to make it work.
I was thinking about joining both CanL and CanH to the Key 1 wire. I'm no EE but my assumption is that if they are both putting out variable voltages and resistances (one "low" and one "high") that combining them would just be sending the entire range of signals through the Key 1 wire to my HU for decoding by the on board s/w. Anyone see a red flag on that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Generally canbus is sending out a digital signal. Headunits are expecting an analogue voltage or resistance between key1 and ground. A key2 wire just allows a second analogue signal to be used in addition (I use a key1 +ground and key2+ground in our mazda5 as it has *resistive* steering wheel controls with two different paths - one for most controls and one for just the "phone" button which in the oem set-up only routes to the bluetooth box). I am surprised that canbus signals on their own can ever function on a headnit that is expecting resistive/analogue voltage inputs. I would never attempt to hook it up, but instead would source a canbus adapter that will convert the digital signal to an analogue output. This is exactly what I have on our Saab 9-3: canbus to Connects2 adapter to chinese head unit, where the connects2 box output is connected to the headunit key1 and ground. It is to note that some chinese headunits come with a canbus box built-in, but for a specific vehicle, and in that case the canbus wires would be hooked up directly.
Ahh. That is a huge distinction that I had not heard anywhere else. The fact that the CanBus is digital and the HU is analog. Had you not stated that you also have a Chinese HU (assuming Android) I would have thought you were referring a traditional HU. Why is the Android unit not designed for the digital signal?
Are you certain about all of this? Is this a true statement, "The Chinese Android HU's are designed only to connect to SWC that are analog, NOT the digital CanBus lines"?
treojoew said:
Ahh. That is a huge distinction that I had not heard anywhere else. The fact that the CanBus is digital and the HU is analog. Had you not stated that you also have a Chinese HU (assuming Android) I would have thought you were referring a traditional HU. Why is the Android unit not designed for the digital signal?
Are you certain about all of this? Is this a true statement, "The Chinese Android HU's are designed only to connect to SWC that are analog, NOT the digital CanBus lines"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I stated above vehicle specific Chinese Android headunits will come with a canbus adapter (if required). All universal head units that I have seen (meaning Android Chinese head units) are expecting analog inputs. If you look at the advertising for joying or others on aliexpress it explicitly states that you need a canbus adpater if your vehicle outputs (in the harness for the radio) canbus signals. Be aware that the canbus signals that transmit steering wheel control information are not standard, each vehicle manufacturer is free to use whatever signal chain they want for the controls as they are also the "supplier" of the radio. That is why they have vehicle specific canbus adpaters (where the aftermarket canbus adpater manufacturer has "sniffed" that vehicles canbus lines to learn the codes), or universal ones that either learn thru button presses and/or are coded with multiple vehicles. I advise you to contact axxess (if you are in N/A) or connects2 (if you are in the EU) and talk to them about what you need. I have been in contact with both those companies over the years and both should be quite helpful. PAC is another option, but I have no experience with them.
---edit---
All that being said I did a little more googling on your vehicle and it seems it is a problematic one - connects2 shows using the axxess adapter, but only for later years than yours and axxess states that they have no info on your model year. All the more reason to contact axxess, but in the link in my first response didn't someone get your it working with your vehicle and year?
---more edit---
Reading thru that linked page it is definitely a problematic vehicle - it seems like this may be your best bet but more research is definitely required: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_249SWRVL54/CRUX-SWRVL-54-Wiring-Interface.html
Great info. Thanks for your time and your advice.
Hi all !
I'm starting a new thread because I did not find a lot of information about ATOTO A6 Pro and steering wheel controls.
I have a outlander 2015 and Im trying to use the steering wheel controls on the ATOTO using a aswc-1. I plugged the brown wire and brown white of the aswc to the two swc wires on the ATOTO.
The aswc auto detects the car but not the radio. I tried pioneer and Visteon but only two buttons work (vol up and seek forward).
I also tried to switch the two wires. No luck.
Anybody had success configuring the pro version ? Which radio type did you use ?
Tried to contact Atoto support but no news from them yet.
Thank you !
Hi, me too I need an interface between sec and tesla style android radio. Let me know if it will work
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A6003 utilizzando Tapatalk
Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
LoloTheJeeper said:
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.
sonicsleuth said:
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.
lastdeadmouse said:
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured it out by going back to my early years as an IT tech.
There were FOUR separate wiring harnesses the original Prius II (2010, non-JBL) had connected to the factory Matsushita stereo. I bought an Axxess ASWC-1 and a wiring harness specifically for the Atoto A6 to a Prius. The new harness only used TWO of the FOUR harnesses (an 8 pin and a 12 pin, unused were a 20 pin and a 10 pin). The problem is that the wiring harness had two SWC wires, and neither was *actually* going to the factory SWC. I couldn't diagnose which wires were the SWC... so like an IT tech, I hooked the old radio up and just started eliminating the harnesses one at a time to figure out which one had the SWC wires.
Lots of web searching told me I might be looking for a pink and red wire, the process above *confirmed* that the harness with the pink and red wires was the harness that included the SWC. SO. I cut the pink and red and hand-wired them to the SWC1 and 2 of the Atoto HU (ignoring the Axxess ASWC-1 completely)... and it worked. Went into the Android default settings, programmed the Keys to Vol + and - and FFD/Rew, and then it completely worked. What's more, I can return the Axxess ASWC-1 to Amazon and have one less aftermarket part jammed into my dash.
I put all this information here so if anybody has a similar Prius they want to upgrade they can see my experience. If you have a Prius 2010-2015 and you want to upgrade the factory radio, you can do it with an Atoto A6 and retain your SWC without any adapters. Yay!
LoloTheJeeper said:
Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?
pyng123 said:
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you end up going with Atoto. I am considered one and did not find much information!
Hello all!
I've got a Joying Octo-core 4Gb/32Gb 8.1 SC9853i unit installed in my 2005 Toyota Prius (w/nav and jbl sound.). I'm very pleased with the main functions of the unit, but I'm having a couple of issues. I've been messaging Joying about it. They're trying to help, but I'm getting the impression they aren't quite tracking me.
The first issue is with the steering wheel controls. My car has the three wire controls which are attached to key1, key2, and ground on the Joying supplied Toyota harness. I have double, triple, and quadruple checked these wires on both sides of each connector. Using my multi-meter, I can see changes in resistance upon button presses when checking from key1 to ground, and different buttons from key2 to ground, exactly as expected. I can see this happening all the way to the iso plug that goes to the back of the head unit. The signal is definitely getting to the unit.
When I go into the control software, though, absolutely nothing happens when I try to program buttons. There is a batch of numbers across the top that are supposed to change according to resistance, but they are quite stubbornly sitting at 255.
If my phone was exhibiting squirrelly behavior like this, I'd re-flash it and start fresh. Extending this concept to the head unit, I found Joying's update page and pulled a fresh copy of the firmware, carefully checking the version for my head unit. This one is the 4.3 release. It appeared to flash successfully, but there was no change in the SWC functions. I also tried the 3.29 release to no avail. I ended up sticking with that one for now, as notifications don't work on the newer release. I also rooted it with Magisk. That didn't change anything, not did I expect it to.
I'm also having difficulty with my reverse camera. My car did not have one to start with, but I added one a very long time ago using a CanView system (a low-production aftermarket mini computer that injected video via the navigation feed.) I've removed all of that except the camera itself, which is a simple thing that produces video on a composite RCA plug, which I've plugged in to the rev-video jack on the head unit. It completely refuses to switch to the reverse video.
My harness has a can-bus decoder which I thought would pick up reverse, but I'm starting to think it only enables the jbl amplifier. So, I grabbed a reverse wire from the tail light and connected it to the appropriate wire in the harness. It still won't switch. I even tried using an always-hot to test the reverse and it wouldn't switch. I repeated this with a completely different RCA camera, just in case the problem was with the installed one. No dice.
I'm at a loss for what to do to troubleshoot now. Anybody have an idea?
cannot say anything about SWC as i have different HU.
About reverse camera - can you post the picture of your harness? Usually HU has the wire marked as "BACK CAM" or "REV CAM" or "REAR CAM" or similar, and the +Vcc (or GND) on this cable controls the switching to reverse camera view. Some HUs have switchable setting to detect either +Vcc or GND on this cable - pls check this also (it is in the car settings in a part protected with password).
Hello fellow Prius NHW20 owner! I have just installed a SC9853i based Android 8.1 unit (can't post link yet, search for Nuoweida 9853 solution). My steering wheel control works fine. I connected a 68 Ohm resister between pins 9 and 10 of the CN703 port. I connected SW1 (pin 7) and SW2 (pin 8) and GND (pin 6) to the corresponding wires of the head unit. I used the Toyota Steering Wheel harness that I got from ebay.
I still haven't installed the rear camera. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hi all,
I have the Joying Android Oreo JY-FO128N4PX5S installed in my Ford Focus ST and have issues which Joying have not been able to fix.
The main issue is that something in the head unit is keeping my ECU alive so the Dash led where the odometer is stays on 24/7
I disconnected the Canbus and it seems to have fixed it for awhile but now I have not wheel controls.
I reconnected the Canbus but cut the black/red wire and spliced it into Key2 wire as recommended by Joying. And tried to re-learn the wheel controls but this does not work as the controls do nothing in this setup.
But ECU stays on. Anyone know if there are any settings inside the unit to make sure it goes off when the power is turned off and does not keep sending messages to the ECU.
Thanks
Most units with CAN bus SWC controls have a different motherboard than units with resistance based SWC controls.
Probably your unit must use the CAN bus otherwise your SWC will most probably not work. That his for the FYT units. Your PX5S is an STT unit. That might work differently.
However, in your case you probably have 2 constant power leads. Both the red and yellow power cable deliver constant power. That is why your unit stays on.
In some of the VAG (VW/Skoda/Seat) cars it also works that way: Switching off the builtin radio is also controlled by the CAN bus and this CAN bus stays on (but not the radio in that case). All those Chinese "multi purpose" units do not support that.
Please check if both power cables deliver constant power.
Hi professionals. Thanks for reading my plea for help. I have a 2005 SLK 200 R171. I recently decided to change my player from the usual audio 20 with cd changer to this Erisin Android PX5 head unit i got off aliexpress. When i received it, i noticed that the harness supplied with the player did not fit my car. Hence i opted to buy a Dynavin harness which by pictures the harness fitted my original plug but the cable attaching to my headunit did not. So i did my rewiring myself. Followed the usual colour and power and got the headunit powered up. However i noticed the can bus is fed with one constant wire, one ground wire, and both the can high and can low cables from the car. And there are 3 cables that goes from the canbus unit to the headunit i.e. brown for reverse, red for acc, orange for illumination. I have 2 more wires with a small harness (White and white/black stripe wire) that does not have an input to anywhere (I believe that Is the canbus high and low to the headunit) and a blue wire. On my headunit harness, according to the wiring diagram attached with the player, there is only one wire going to the can low socket and the can high is empty. Hence i attached my can low from the headunit to a blue wire from the canbus and noticed my steering wheel controls work (volume buttons and +/- track). However, the display on my dash says audio off. Also my rear view camera goes on and off (I looped the trigger wire to the reverse brown wire that exits the canbus and goes to the headunit reverse). I will try an attach a video. Does anyone know if i have made a mistake in the wiring? And does anyone have a wiring diagram for the can bus decoder (brown semi transparent box)?
Any help is very very much appreciated. Thanks tonnes.
My issue link
vimeo dot com slash 462084336
( sorry wasnt allowed to post a link)
Hello Haven,
Did you ever receive an answer? I am having a similar issue. I bought an android head unit with can bus decoder. Almost all the wiring harnesses were wrong and I had to rewire myself. the chinese supplier did not provide any wiring diagrams or pinouts, (claims they do not have any). I finally got my reverse camera, sound, and steering wheel controls working. (all come directly into head unit. The can bus decoder does not seem to be connected to the can H and Can L from the vehicle. I have the same 3 wires from can bus decoder box to android head unit. I am certain based on the other wire harnesses received that the wiring from car to can bus decoder is wrong. Can you tell me what two pins the Can H and Can L are fed to on your decoder box?