Hi all,
I have the Joying Android Oreo JY-FO128N4PX5S installed in my Ford Focus ST and have issues which Joying have not been able to fix.
The main issue is that something in the head unit is keeping my ECU alive so the Dash led where the odometer is stays on 24/7
I disconnected the Canbus and it seems to have fixed it for awhile but now I have not wheel controls.
I reconnected the Canbus but cut the black/red wire and spliced it into Key2 wire as recommended by Joying. And tried to re-learn the wheel controls but this does not work as the controls do nothing in this setup.
But ECU stays on. Anyone know if there are any settings inside the unit to make sure it goes off when the power is turned off and does not keep sending messages to the ECU.
Thanks
Most units with CAN bus SWC controls have a different motherboard than units with resistance based SWC controls.
Probably your unit must use the CAN bus otherwise your SWC will most probably not work. That his for the FYT units. Your PX5S is an STT unit. That might work differently.
However, in your case you probably have 2 constant power leads. Both the red and yellow power cable deliver constant power. That is why your unit stays on.
In some of the VAG (VW/Skoda/Seat) cars it also works that way: Switching off the builtin radio is also controlled by the CAN bus and this CAN bus stays on (but not the radio in that case). All those Chinese "multi purpose" units do not support that.
Please check if both power cables deliver constant power.
Related
Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Peterbrid said:
Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the canbus decoder from Passat it's not compatible with the Audi TT, but you can cut red wire from canbus decoder and connect directly to acc signal (12v when switch is in ACC and ON position)
All other function from canbus decoder are fine? (lights, reverse, door info, a/c info, etc)
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
Peterbrid said:
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
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Click to collapse
That's a trouble, do you open head unit to see how is inside? Maybe you can made the mod internally.
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Peterbrid said:
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.- I have not idea, I never see inside of a unit with internal canbus decoder. You can open your unit and take some pictures maybe I can help you, also take pictures of the main harness of your unit.
2.- For a external canbus units just cut red wire from canbus decoder to head unit and connect the red wire from the side of head unit to 12v switched.
I will post some pics
And thanks again for the help
I bought a unit recently identified as Android 8802 https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-2-Din-Qu...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 . It only has a Key 1 wire. My car, '03 Volvo XC70, has 2 CANBUS wires in the harness, CanL, CanH. I did some reading and found that sometimes you can ground 1 of the wires and just use the other. I tried this both ways, ground L and connect H to Key 1 and, ground H and connect L to Key 1.
One of those combinations was BAD, no lights on dash and major oh sh!# moment. One of the combinations let me set the buttons for vol up/down and track forward/back BUT, after setting the last button and exiting the setup software whatever was the last function I setup would act like I was pressing the button continuously. Like if it was vol up it would just keep going up, up, up, up, up etc.
Has anyone else dealt with a HU that just had Key 1 and 2 BUS lines?
I think you would want/need a canbus adapter. I found this: https://volvoforums.com/forum/audio...ermarket-steering-wheel-radio-controls-57081/
Thanks for the link/info. I'm seeing a lot of "if" and "maybe" and the like. Nothing that is identified as The solution. I'd much rather try to understand how my unit, which has only 1 SWC wire (Key 1) is meant to be connected to cars to make it work.
I was thinking about joining both CanL and CanH to the Key 1 wire. I'm no EE but my assumption is that if they are both putting out variable voltages and resistances (one "low" and one "high") that combining them would just be sending the entire range of signals through the Key 1 wire to my HU for decoding by the on board s/w. Anyone see a red flag on that?
treojoew said:
Thanks for the link/info. I'm seeing a lot of "if" and "maybe" and the like. Nothing that is identified as The solution. I'd much rather try to understand how my unit, which has only 1 SWC wire (Key 1) is meant to be connected to cars to make it work.
I was thinking about joining both CanL and CanH to the Key 1 wire. I'm no EE but my assumption is that if they are both putting out variable voltages and resistances (one "low" and one "high") that combining them would just be sending the entire range of signals through the Key 1 wire to my HU for decoding by the on board s/w. Anyone see a red flag on that?
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Click to collapse
Generally canbus is sending out a digital signal. Headunits are expecting an analogue voltage or resistance between key1 and ground. A key2 wire just allows a second analogue signal to be used in addition (I use a key1 +ground and key2+ground in our mazda5 as it has *resistive* steering wheel controls with two different paths - one for most controls and one for just the "phone" button which in the oem set-up only routes to the bluetooth box). I am surprised that canbus signals on their own can ever function on a headnit that is expecting resistive/analogue voltage inputs. I would never attempt to hook it up, but instead would source a canbus adapter that will convert the digital signal to an analogue output. This is exactly what I have on our Saab 9-3: canbus to Connects2 adapter to chinese head unit, where the connects2 box output is connected to the headunit key1 and ground. It is to note that some chinese headunits come with a canbus box built-in, but for a specific vehicle, and in that case the canbus wires would be hooked up directly.
Ahh. That is a huge distinction that I had not heard anywhere else. The fact that the CanBus is digital and the HU is analog. Had you not stated that you also have a Chinese HU (assuming Android) I would have thought you were referring a traditional HU. Why is the Android unit not designed for the digital signal?
Are you certain about all of this? Is this a true statement, "The Chinese Android HU's are designed only to connect to SWC that are analog, NOT the digital CanBus lines"?
treojoew said:
Ahh. That is a huge distinction that I had not heard anywhere else. The fact that the CanBus is digital and the HU is analog. Had you not stated that you also have a Chinese HU (assuming Android) I would have thought you were referring a traditional HU. Why is the Android unit not designed for the digital signal?
Are you certain about all of this? Is this a true statement, "The Chinese Android HU's are designed only to connect to SWC that are analog, NOT the digital CanBus lines"?
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Click to collapse
As I stated above vehicle specific Chinese Android headunits will come with a canbus adapter (if required). All universal head units that I have seen (meaning Android Chinese head units) are expecting analog inputs. If you look at the advertising for joying or others on aliexpress it explicitly states that you need a canbus adpater if your vehicle outputs (in the harness for the radio) canbus signals. Be aware that the canbus signals that transmit steering wheel control information are not standard, each vehicle manufacturer is free to use whatever signal chain they want for the controls as they are also the "supplier" of the radio. That is why they have vehicle specific canbus adpaters (where the aftermarket canbus adpater manufacturer has "sniffed" that vehicles canbus lines to learn the codes), or universal ones that either learn thru button presses and/or are coded with multiple vehicles. I advise you to contact axxess (if you are in N/A) or connects2 (if you are in the EU) and talk to them about what you need. I have been in contact with both those companies over the years and both should be quite helpful. PAC is another option, but I have no experience with them.
---edit---
All that being said I did a little more googling on your vehicle and it seems it is a problematic one - connects2 shows using the axxess adapter, but only for later years than yours and axxess states that they have no info on your model year. All the more reason to contact axxess, but in the link in my first response didn't someone get your it working with your vehicle and year?
---more edit---
Reading thru that linked page it is definitely a problematic vehicle - it seems like this may be your best bet but more research is definitely required: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_249SWRVL54/CRUX-SWRVL-54-Wiring-Interface.html
Great info. Thanks for your time and your advice.
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
Hello all!
I've got a Joying Octo-core 4Gb/32Gb 8.1 SC9853i unit installed in my 2005 Toyota Prius (w/nav and jbl sound.). I'm very pleased with the main functions of the unit, but I'm having a couple of issues. I've been messaging Joying about it. They're trying to help, but I'm getting the impression they aren't quite tracking me.
The first issue is with the steering wheel controls. My car has the three wire controls which are attached to key1, key2, and ground on the Joying supplied Toyota harness. I have double, triple, and quadruple checked these wires on both sides of each connector. Using my multi-meter, I can see changes in resistance upon button presses when checking from key1 to ground, and different buttons from key2 to ground, exactly as expected. I can see this happening all the way to the iso plug that goes to the back of the head unit. The signal is definitely getting to the unit.
When I go into the control software, though, absolutely nothing happens when I try to program buttons. There is a batch of numbers across the top that are supposed to change according to resistance, but they are quite stubbornly sitting at 255.
If my phone was exhibiting squirrelly behavior like this, I'd re-flash it and start fresh. Extending this concept to the head unit, I found Joying's update page and pulled a fresh copy of the firmware, carefully checking the version for my head unit. This one is the 4.3 release. It appeared to flash successfully, but there was no change in the SWC functions. I also tried the 3.29 release to no avail. I ended up sticking with that one for now, as notifications don't work on the newer release. I also rooted it with Magisk. That didn't change anything, not did I expect it to.
I'm also having difficulty with my reverse camera. My car did not have one to start with, but I added one a very long time ago using a CanView system (a low-production aftermarket mini computer that injected video via the navigation feed.) I've removed all of that except the camera itself, which is a simple thing that produces video on a composite RCA plug, which I've plugged in to the rev-video jack on the head unit. It completely refuses to switch to the reverse video.
My harness has a can-bus decoder which I thought would pick up reverse, but I'm starting to think it only enables the jbl amplifier. So, I grabbed a reverse wire from the tail light and connected it to the appropriate wire in the harness. It still won't switch. I even tried using an always-hot to test the reverse and it wouldn't switch. I repeated this with a completely different RCA camera, just in case the problem was with the installed one. No dice.
I'm at a loss for what to do to troubleshoot now. Anybody have an idea?
cannot say anything about SWC as i have different HU.
About reverse camera - can you post the picture of your harness? Usually HU has the wire marked as "BACK CAM" or "REV CAM" or "REAR CAM" or similar, and the +Vcc (or GND) on this cable controls the switching to reverse camera view. Some HUs have switchable setting to detect either +Vcc or GND on this cable - pls check this also (it is in the car settings in a part protected with password).
Hello fellow Prius NHW20 owner! I have just installed a SC9853i based Android 8.1 unit (can't post link yet, search for Nuoweida 9853 solution). My steering wheel control works fine. I connected a 68 Ohm resister between pins 9 and 10 of the CN703 port. I connected SW1 (pin 7) and SW2 (pin 8) and GND (pin 6) to the corresponding wires of the head unit. I used the Toyota Steering Wheel harness that I got from ebay.
I still haven't installed the rear camera. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
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Click to collapse
Thanks
Mr.TT_NZ​Thanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..