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Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Peterbrid said:
Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the canbus decoder from Passat it's not compatible with the Audi TT, but you can cut red wire from canbus decoder and connect directly to acc signal (12v when switch is in ACC and ON position)
All other function from canbus decoder are fine? (lights, reverse, door info, a/c info, etc)
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
Peterbrid said:
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a trouble, do you open head unit to see how is inside? Maybe you can made the mod internally.
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Peterbrid said:
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.- I have not idea, I never see inside of a unit with internal canbus decoder. You can open your unit and take some pictures maybe I can help you, also take pictures of the main harness of your unit.
2.- For a external canbus units just cut red wire from canbus decoder to head unit and connect the red wire from the side of head unit to 12v switched.
I will post some pics
And thanks again for the help
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!
If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???
Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks
ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))
@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.
The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.
Do you have a link for the unit?
Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...
Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.
Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.
Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.
Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
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Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
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Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
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Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.
ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
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Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?
ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
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Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
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Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)
Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing
From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.
Zero volts
Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
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Click to collapse
Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.