Database Users

CANBUs on nu3001

The wiring harness that came with my unit does not have pins/wires in the places where the wiki indicates they should be. Did I just get the wrong unit or did they give me the wrong harness. I know that my truck uses canbusa for the steering wheel controls as opposed to the resistive controls.

henninghogue said:
The wiring harness that came with my unit does not have pins/wires in the places where the wiki indicates they should be. Did I just get the wrong unit or did they give me the wrong harness. I know that my truck uses canbusa for the steering wheel controls as opposed to the resistive controls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need a Canbus inteface adapter for your truck. In the NU3001 wiring harness there should be two orange wires (one with a black stripe), both for CAN High and CAN Low respectively, for use with a Canbus interface adapter. Some wiring harnesses might have wires labeled as Key+, Key-, and Key GND. If that's your case then you'll need a SWC adapter since your steering wheel controls are digital instead of resistive.

Orisai said:
You'll need a Canbus inteface adapter for your truck. In the NU3001 wiring harness there should be two orange wires (one with a black stripe), both for CAN High and CAN Low respectively, for use with a Canbus interface adapter. Some wiring harnesses might have wires labeled as Key+, Key-, and Key GND. If that's your case then you'll need a SWC adapter since your steering wheel controls are digital instead of resistive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wiring harness that I recieved with my NU3001 does not have the canbus related wires in it. Was it just made wrong then?

How to use steering wheel controls with the Atoto A6 Pro.

Tracking this info down was a nightmare for me. Hope this is useful to someone.
Requirements:
• Axxess aswc-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface. (link)
• Time and patience.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the 3.5mm Female input (SWC IR-WIRELESS Steering Wheel Key Control Port) on the back of the Atoto A6 Pro. This port does not work for some reason.
**Connections to the Car**
1. Download the vehicle specific instructions for your car, as well as the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" (two different PDFs) from https://axxessinterfaces.com.
2. Follow the vehicle specific instructions to first connect the AWSC-1 to your car.
**Connections to the Radio**
1. The aswc-1 includes a female 3.5mm connector with a brown and brown/white wire coming out. Use this to connect to the Atoto’s Steering Wheel Key(+) and Steering Wheel Key#(+) wires.
2. Connect the "Steering Wheel Key+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown/White wire of Axxess ASWC-1, connect the "Steering WheelKey#+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown wire of the aswc-1
(yes, both of these wires are positive. I don't know who or why, but it works.)
3. Plug the male 3.5 mm jack from the aswc-1, into the female 3.5 mm jack that you wired up in step 2.
4. The ASWC-1 will NOT auto detect the Atoto A6. (don't worry, not a problem)
5. Follow the instructions from page 12 of the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" to change your radio type.
Change your radio type to "Visteon". (Visteon is radio type 8).
7. At this point you have completed configuring the aswc-1. Next, move on to your radio.
8. From the radio navigate to: Settings>Default settings>Steering wheel program.
9. Once at the screen press "Reset".
10. Then press any key value from the menu, it will begin to flash.
11. Finally press one of the buttons on your steering wheel. The flashing key (from step 10) on your radio will stop flashing, and a triangular symbol will appear on the key. This indicates the key has been successfully programmed.
repeat steps 10 and 11 until you have programmed all the steering wheel control buttons. :good:

first thanks for the guide there is nothing of information of those two wires anywhere.
second, I followed all the steps except the manual programming of the stereo, but use the axxess app to program the module as Visteon but I still can not make it to work, I know that axxess is well connected to the car because it already worked with my previous stereo but honestly I do not know what else I can do to make it work.

ATOTO steering wheel control for cars with resistance circuit
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.

Thanks a lot for your sharing! Really helpful!

jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.

andrewd5418 said:
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give a link to the Metra harness you have? The 2011 WRX steering wheel controls have 2 or 3 wires depending on your car's options, so having 4 steering wheel wires on the Metra harness seems strange. I'll paste one of the wiring diagrams here, guessing at your car's options. If you have trouble pasting a link to a Metra part like 70-8901 , just add some spaces onto the URL to make it look like plain text.
Also it would help to know if your 2011 WRX came originally from the factory with a non-bluetooth radio, bluetooth radio, or with the Navigation. The important point here is whether your steering wheel has just the Vol+/Vol-/Mode/Seek button cluster or if you also have the other cluster for controlling the bluetooth phone.
My guess is that you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+, connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to Chassis Ground, and leave the any other steering wheel specific wires on your Metra harness unconnected since ATOTO doesnt need those. This is just a guess without the other info that I requested.

My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

andrewd5418 said:
My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so given that you have harness AHH-70-7552, then you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+; connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to ATOTO Steering Wheel Key#+; leave the Metra SWC +12 and ground wires unconnected (ATOTO doesnt need those). The "third" common wire from your vehicle's SWC will be correctly connected by ground by the harness itself, as is noted in the AH-70-7552 product page:
*Pin 14 is grounded in the harness for the convenience of the installer. If this connection is not desired, cut the wire that connects between pin 14 and pin 10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW, you might find this AE64 page useful for details on the pinouts for your subaru's 20-pin connector.
On a separate topic, are you connecting a back-up camera to the ATOTO? Noticed that your Metra harness doesnt have the reverse gear signal.

I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

andrewd5418 said:
I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I did on my install and what I would recommend. The ATOTO has a "feature" where it will disable playback of videos unless the parking brake is set, but that feature is disabled by default. There is no particular reason to connect the parking brake wire to the ATOTO unless you plan on enabling that feature.

Atoto swc
Thank you for your tip, my car Mitsubishi Pajero dakar has 2 wires with diferent resisteses, i conected 1 cable from the car to ATOTO and the second cable of the car to ATOTO AND GROUND toghether, that was the only way that worked... if i leave the second cable of atoto without ground it do not work..

Outlander 2015 Problem
Hi All !
I followed your instructions.
I have a Outlander 2015 and a ATOTO Pro A6.
After configuring the AWSC-1, only two buttons on the steering wheel work in the mapping panel (Volume up and skip right) no other wheel button is recongnized by ATOTO
I tried to swap the wires from the male jack connected to Steering key and key# with no luck.
Anybody encountered the same problem ?
Thank you

help what colour
jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect? I understand I dont need a controller for this? there are 2 wires coming from atoto radio harness but what are the color of wires i need to connect to the car?

inventiveash said:
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did your 2011 Subaru Forester come from the factory with Navigation? If not, then does your steering wheel one cluster of SWC buttons (Vol+,Vol-, Seek+, Seek-, Mode, Mute) or does it also have the second cluster of SWC buttons for controlling Bluetooth phone? These questions affects the color and location of the wires you'll be looking for.

It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

creatingash said:
It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Take that to mean your 2011 Subaru Forester did not come with factory navigation and does not have the Bluetooth steering wheel buttons. In that case, you are looking for the following two wires on your car:
Yellow wire: Connected to pin 14 of your 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
LightGreen with red stripe: Connected to pin 4 of the 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
Refer to pics and pinouts of the 20-pin Subaru connector. Connect one of the above two Subaru wires (either one) to ground. Connect the remaining Subaru wire to ATOTO orange-black steering wheel key (+).
Leave the ATOTO brown-black steering wheel key #(+) unconnected. This worked for me, but others had reported that they needed to connect the steering wheel key #(+) to ground, so you could try that if needed.

Thank you, I will give it a try,
Since you are familiar any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

inventiveash said:
any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On 2011 Subaru Forester with factory navigation, that wire (a brown wire with yellow stripe) would be brought out to one of the navigation connectors. Don't know if that wire is accessible in your vehicle's instrument panel harness or not.

2015 Honda Fit
I've got the AWSC-01 connected to the HDCC-02 harness. The module will sense my buttons for setup but I cannot get it to work with the head unit. The head unit will detect a button press when the module ends it's setup mode on boot though. I've got it hooked up as described using the wires through the HDCC-02 harness. I even tried grounding each wire and it didn't make a difference.
According to another user they had to buy a $100 adapter to get it to work. I really don't want to pay $100 for steering wheel buttons.
Help would be appreciated.

2014 WRX l, no nav, bluetooth.
So my Metra harness did not come with steering wheel pins (4, 13, 14) can I just bypass the harness and hook it up straight from the A6 to the cars wires?

ATOTO A6 pro steering wheel controls

Hi all !
I'm starting a new thread because I did not find a lot of information about ATOTO A6 Pro and steering wheel controls.
I have a outlander 2015 and Im trying to use the steering wheel controls on the ATOTO using a aswc-1. I plugged the brown wire and brown white of the aswc to the two swc wires on the ATOTO.
The aswc auto detects the car but not the radio. I tried pioneer and Visteon but only two buttons work (vol up and seek forward).
I also tried to switch the two wires. No luck.
Anybody had success configuring the pro version ? Which radio type did you use ?
Tried to contact Atoto support but no news from them yet.
Thank you !

Hi, me too I need an interface between sec and tesla style android radio. Let me know if it will work
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A6003 utilizzando Tapatalk

Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!

LoloTheJeeper said:
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.

sonicsleuth said:
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.

lastdeadmouse said:
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured it out by going back to my early years as an IT tech.
There were FOUR separate wiring harnesses the original Prius II (2010, non-JBL) had connected to the factory Matsushita stereo. I bought an Axxess ASWC-1 and a wiring harness specifically for the Atoto A6 to a Prius. The new harness only used TWO of the FOUR harnesses (an 8 pin and a 12 pin, unused were a 20 pin and a 10 pin). The problem is that the wiring harness had two SWC wires, and neither was *actually* going to the factory SWC. I couldn't diagnose which wires were the SWC... so like an IT tech, I hooked the old radio up and just started eliminating the harnesses one at a time to figure out which one had the SWC wires.
Lots of web searching told me I might be looking for a pink and red wire, the process above *confirmed* that the harness with the pink and red wires was the harness that included the SWC. SO. I cut the pink and red and hand-wired them to the SWC1 and 2 of the Atoto HU (ignoring the Axxess ASWC-1 completely)... and it worked. Went into the Android default settings, programmed the Keys to Vol + and - and FFD/Rew, and then it completely worked. What's more, I can return the Axxess ASWC-1 to Amazon and have one less aftermarket part jammed into my dash.
I put all this information here so if anybody has a similar Prius they want to upgrade they can see my experience. If you have a Prius 2010-2015 and you want to upgrade the factory radio, you can do it with an Atoto A6 and retain your SWC without any adapters. Yay!

LoloTheJeeper said:
Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?

pyng123 said:
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you end up going with Atoto. I am considered one and did not find much information!

Android Head Unit SC9853 - Nissan connections unsure...

SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!

If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???

Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks

ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))

@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.

rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.

The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.

Do you have a link for the unit?

Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5

There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?

Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...

Confirmation on wiring 7862 to Kia Sportage 2011 with digital amp

Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.

This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.

Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.

Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?

My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.

I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.

TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.

Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.

Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.

ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.

TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.

ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?

ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.

Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.

ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)

Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing

From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.

Zero volts

Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason