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PX6 in VW Transporter T5.1

I'd like to hear from anyone who has got a PX6 in their Transporter T5.1.
I bought an "SWC" / "Erisin" PX6 4GB/32GB Android 9 HU to replace my PX5. Fitted it and discovered it was not MTCD/MTCE.
I could not get my reversing camera to work with it*. All I got was a flashing "No video signal" message. I sent the HU back for a refund.
Would still like to get a PX6 but need the reversing camera to work. Would prefer MTCD/MTCE. Anybody on the forum done this?
My van is a 2014 BlueMotion 84kW TDI model. I believe 2014 models are a bit "special" electrically. I'm just trying to gather information about PX6 HUs that might work in my van.
(*Longer version: Tried triggering the HU Reversing function with: just CANBUS; with direct connection to reverse light +ve; with connection to +12v via a relay; and connection to battery +ve. (These last 3 by cutting into the wiring bundle as suggested by Chinese technician) but nothing worked. The (rear facing) camera worked perfectly when plugged into the HU's RCA DVR connector and camera now still works with my re-fitted PX5)

Hi there,
Did you make it work eventually?
Here is my experience with a PX6 on my T5 (2009) - will copy paste a post which I already wrote in another thread:
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?​
So these being said, I am afraid these units have some hardware issue with the front/rear camera inputs.
PS: on my Opel Combo car I have a PX3 unit with working rear camera !

cflaviu said:
Hi there,
Did you make it work eventually?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I sent it back for refund.
Here is my experience with a PX6 on my T5 (2009) - will copy paste a post which I already wrote in another thread:
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My reversing camera worked if plugged into the f-cam input, but of course this is useless as you need it to be triggered by going into reverse and f-cam input is not. Atleast it meant I could be sure nothing was wrong with my camera.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think my PX6 was expecting something special in the trigger signal. 12v DC from the reverse light did not work. Nor did 12v DC straight from the battery via a relay. The PX6 wiring loom lets you choose between CANBUS and non-CANBUS configuration. Neither of these worked. I even hacked the wiring on instructions from Erisin in China with no success (They clearly misunderstood their own wiring diagram though, so I never expected the hacking to work).
So these being said, I am afraid these units have some hardware issue with the front/rear camera inputs.
PS: on my Opel Combo car I have a PX3 unit with working rear camera !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you are right. There is a hardware issue. I have a PX5 which works fine with the reversing camera input but the trigger signal has to be 12v DC direct from the battery via a relay triggered by the reversing light.
It was a shame because the PX6 was faster than my PX5 and the screen was brighter. But not having a reversing camera was a showstopper.

Thanks for you reply!
Regarding activation of the reverse screen, I managed to make good use of the canbus decoder box which they sent me from China (first one didnt work, them they sent me another one which recognizes the CAN messages correctly).
So the problem is that the unit doesn't receive the video signal from the camera, although it gets into reverse mode.
Moreover, the unit doesn't show the camera image by using F-Cam app either...hence I believe it is the video controller (FMS6502) that is faulty. I have to check it with a multimeter based on the specs of it...
These units are atractive but they have serious flaws in their mechanical (cheap plastics, buttons, etc) and electronic design.
Sending the unit to warranty in China is a lost cause too...
Cheers

cflaviu said:
Thanks for you reply!
Regarding activation of the reverse screen, I managed to make good use of the canbus decoder box which they sent me from China (first one didnt work, them they sent me another one which recognizes the CAN messages correctly).
So the problem is that the unit doesn't receive the video signal from the camera, although it gets into reverse mode.
Moreover, the unit doesn't show the camera image by using F-Cam app either...hence I believe it is the video controller (FMS6502) that is faulty. I have to check it with a multimeter based on the specs of it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it sounds like you have a hardware fault. For me it was some sort of incompatibility in the camera signal/reverse trigger.
These units are atractive but they have serious flaws in their mechanical (cheap plastics, buttons, etc) and electronic design.
Sending the unit to warranty in China is a lost cause too...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Erisin branded PX6 was very poor quality compared to my Xtrons branded PX5. The connectors and the buttons on the PX6 were very fragile.
I was lucky: the UK importer refunded my money, but only after I told them I would raise a dispute on EBay.

Android Head Unit SC9853 - Nissan connections unsure...

SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!

If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???

Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks

ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))

@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.

rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.

The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.

Do you have a link for the unit?

Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5

There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?

Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...

Canbus wiring problem chinese headunit 9216C

Hey guys, need some help with installing the canbus I’ve bought.
after the purchase I realized that the canbus is for toyota corolla 2013+ and my corolla is 2011.
some of the typical wires has been connected, except the male connectors with 18,20,16pins..Maybe it’s for 2013+ Corolla only.
but..did anyone maybe have some knowledge about the connections to the vehicle wires and maybe can help me and guide me how to make it work.
or can send me a link to a comparable product for corolla 2011.
p.s: I got a wire of 4pins that goes to nothing.. did anyone know maybe what is this wire? (Photo of it attached to the threat).
and if anyone could tell me how can I know that the head unit is recognize the canbus?
I got some pictures if the connections and wires.
thank you !!

Up

Up

Up

I would like to know where that connector is supposed to go too, I could not figure it out. My SWC doesn't work with the correct Can Bus module.

Meir69, this is what the back of my unit looks like, yours too? Can that connector coming out of the Canbus decoder plug into the "E" slot?

Meir69 said:
Hey guys, need some help with installing the canbus I’ve bought.
after the purchase I realized that the canbus is for toyota corolla 2013+ and my corolla is 2011.
some of the typical wires has been connected, except the male connectors with 18,20,16pins..Maybe it’s for 2013+ Corolla only.
but..did anyone maybe have some knowledge about the connections to the vehicle wires and maybe can help me and guide me how to make it work.
or can send me a link to a comparable product for corolla 2011.
p.s: I got a wire of 4pins that goes to nothing.. did anyone know maybe what is this wire? (Photo of it attached to the threat).
and if anyone could tell me how can I know that the head unit is recognize the canbus?
I got some pictures if the connections and wires.
thank you !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why?
Is something not working?
Just because there is a spare plug doesn't necesarily mean it is supposed to be plugged into something. Sometimes the harness provides two different plugs for two different situations and only one gets used for YOUR situation. The other one will get taped off.

Alfonze33 said:
Meir69, this is what the back of my unit looks like, yours too? Can that connector coming out of the Canbus decoder plug into the "E" slot?
View attachment 5170845
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your (vehicle specific) can bus decoder has nothing to do with the "E" slot. That is for USB connection. There appears to be 3 usb slots on your machine, your primary usb in "D" slot and 2 extra ones in "E" slot.
You can bus decoder should connect to, and ONLY to slot "G" (main power slot). Your vehicle harness will plug into one the can bus decoder plugs, and another can bus decoder plug will go into slot "G".
If you have a UNIVERSAL can bus decoder then it will be connected to G6 and G7. But this is only for a UNIVERSAL decoder, otherwise G6 and 7 will not get used.

Bob_Sanders said:
Your (vehicle specific) can bus decoder has nothing to do with the "E" slot. That is for USB connection. There appears to be 3 usb slots on your machine, your primary usb in "D" slot and 2 extra ones in "E" slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the correct vehicle specific decoder according to the label on it and it doesn't work. Buttons don't register when trying to assign commands in any CAN mode. I thought maybe the decoder sends a USB signal to the headunit as I have no other ideas

corrolla 2011 no need canbus, just set the steering control manually.

Hi, some help as well please, I do have a similar problem with a head unit 8227L Android 9.1 XY AUTO 3.3, my car is a jeep compass 2008 and it has a mod bus, the radio head unit has some preloaded mod bus for different brands and models but not for that specific model year, I already identify in the car harness the terminals for Hi and Low mod bus but when connected with key 1 and key 2 on the radio the car shows "No bus", some body know if there is a way to add the mod bus on the head unit for that specific car, buy an interface only for the steering wheel control looks a bit excesive considering that android units after all are programmable.

Alfonze33 said:
I would like to know where that connector is supposed to go too, I could not figure it out. My SWC doesn't work with the correct Can Bus module.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the seller told me that: "USB,Connect to the radio" didn't understand how :S
Alfonze33 said:
Meir69, this is what the back of my unit looks like, yours too? Can that connector coming out of the Canbus decoder plug into the "E" slot?
View attachment 5170845
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the cable that separate I didn't figure what is doing, it's 4 pin and can go to "D" but I can't figure what is supposed to do..
Bob_Sanders said:
Why?
Is something not working?
Just because there is a spare plug doesn't necesarily mean it is supposed to be plugged into something. Sometimes the harness provides two different plugs for two different situations and only one gets used for YOUR situation. The other one will get taped off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bob_Sanders said:
Your (vehicle specific) can bus decoder has nothing to do with the "E" slot. That is for USB connection. There appears to be 3 usb slots on your machine, your primary usb in "D" slot and 2 extra ones in "E" slot.
You can bus decoder should connect to, and ONLY to slot "G" (main power slot). Your vehicle harness will plug into one the can bus decoder plugs, and another can bus decoder plug will go into slot "G".
If you have a UNIVERSAL can bus decoder then it will be connected to G6 and G7. But this is only for a UNIVERSAL decoder, otherwise G6 and 7 will not get used.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes my friend, nothing is working, not the steering wheel,not the AC nothing.. but I figured out that the canbus is for corolla 2014+ and I got 2011, but I wanted to check if there any way to make it work for the door car notification and ac control from the headunit.
Alfonze33 said:
I have the correct vehicle specific decoder according to the label on it and it doesn't work. Buttons don't register when trying to assign commands in any CAN mode. I thought maybe the decoder sends a USB signal to the headunit as I have no other ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have corolla 2011? I understands that there is no canbus for corolla 2011
dn8112 said:
corrolla 2011 no need canbus, just set the steering control manually.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are correct, for steering wheel you don't need, but what can I do for door car pop up notification,AC control from headunit ?
is there any universal can bus that make those things?

Meir69 said:
the seller told me that: "USB,Connect to the radio" didn't understand how :S
the cable that separate I didn't figure what is doing, it's 4 pin and can go to "D" but I can't figure what is supposed to do..
yes my friend, nothing is working, not the steering wheel,not the AC nothing.. but I figured out that the canbus is for corolla 2014+ and I got 2011, but I wanted to check if there any way to make it work for the door car notification and ac control from the headunit.
you have corolla 2011? I understands that there is no canbus for corolla 2011
you are correct, for steering wheel you don't need, but what can I do for door car pop up notification,AC control from headunit ?
is there any universal can bus that make those things?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.... Maybe your country corrolla model is diffrent with us, our model is altis 2008 (malaysia) have no door car pop up on headunit and the AC control display and control is diffrent devices. And i think the seller give you the socket complete with altis 2014, because it come with plug and play usb socket(that small black cable)

Meir69 said:
you have corolla 2011? I understands that there is no canbus for corolla 2011
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I have a 2010 BMW X3, I thought I might be able to get help too.
The "D" connector at the headunit is the only USB breakout that my unit came with, I don't think the CAN decoder is supposed to plug into there even if gets used somehow

Confirmation on wiring 7862 to Kia Sportage 2011 with digital amp

Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.

This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.

Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.

Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?

My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.

I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.

TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.

Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.

Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.

ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.

TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.

ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?

ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.

Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.

ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)

Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing

From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.

Zero volts

Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason

Navtree Head Unit Battery Issue

Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.

Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..

Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Mr.TT_NZ​Thanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.

Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
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Click to collapse
Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..