Mechanical keyboards are not just reliable but are often more customizable when compared to regular keyboards. With some modifications, you can improve the performance and overall experience of your mechanical keyboard. In most cases, this is also more cost-effective than spending money on a brand new keyboard. As a bonus, it's fun, especially if you are someone like me who loves to tinker around with tech.
If you own a mechanical keyboard and are interested in taking things to the next level, then modding is the way to go. Here are some of your options.
WARNING - Before you go ahead, note that some of the suggested options below come with a certain amount of risk. There's a chance you could end up completely damaging your keyboard, so you should limit yourself to simple modifications. Additionally, you need to be aware that modifying your keyboard can lead to voiding your warranty. Don’t expect the manufacturer to replace your keyboard if you made attempts to change the switches or damaged the keyboard in any other way.
KeycapsThe easiest keyboard modification is replacing your keycaps. If your keycaps start to look old or lose their paint job, it's time to get some new ones. They're super easy to replace and while you can technically pull them out with your hands, using a keycap remover is more convenient. You can grab one online for a really low price, in case it wasn’t bundled with your keyboard or keycap set.
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If you have a relatively old mechanical keyboard or one that uses ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) keycaps, I recommend you go for double-shot PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate) keycaps. They come at a higher cost but are much better in terms of quality. The biggest advantage of PBT keycaps is that they don't come with printed letters; rather, they are formed by fusing two separate layers of plastic; so the letters are permanent and never fade or scratch.
If you have RGB lighting on your mechanical keyboard, try on some pudding keycaps. They look absolutely gorgeous as they diffuse the harsh LED lights giving off a nice uniform hue. Some really interesting custom artisan keycaps can be made to order, but those can cost you a fortune, especially if you want them with unique colors, shapes, and designs.
Custom artisan keycaps by Dwarf Factory
Key switchesKey switches are the most important part of the keyboard. It's the mechanism underneath each key that includes the housing, stem, spring, and metal contact leaves. While certain mechanical keyboards have the option of hot-swappable switches, others have the switches embedded onto the keyboard’s circuit board.
The latter is tricky if you want to replace the switches as you need to de-solder the existing ones and then solder the new ones. It's not as easy as it sounds.
You can try different types of switches, broadly available in three categories: clicky, tactile, and linear. Cherry MX is the most popular key switches available in different colors, each depicting how they feel and sound when you type on them. Other popular switches include Kailh and Gateron.
A word of caution, be careful when dealing with a keyboard that has key switches soldered onto the circuit board. They need special attention, and one wrong move could end up in a completely dead keyboard. Keyboard switches can also get expensive, especially if you plan on changing every single switch on your keyboard, where you could end up spending as much as the keyboard itself.
Alternatively, if you want to try different key switches for a particular purpose, say gaming, maybe swap out the ones you use the most, like the WASD or arrow keys. You also need to make sure you get the right set of switches for your particular keyboard, as one size doesn't fit all.
StabilizersStabilizers give support to the keys allowing you to control the amount of jiggle on them. They also help in reducing unwanted clacky sounds during keystrokes. You'll primarily see stabilizers for the spacebar or enter keys, but you can essentially use them on almost any key if you feel they're too wobbly. Stabilizers are placed over the key switch and under the keycap to help keep it steady.
Image: AnandTech
You can either clamp them between individual switches or under the keycaps, depending on the provisions. If there are no grooves or any sort of assembly to attach the stabilizers, you can use hot glue or some tape. Just make sure you don’t go overboard with the glue.
Key switch films
These have a similar purpose to a stabilizer but are cheaper and can be used on all the keys. Switch films are a thin piece of plastic that sits between the switch top and the switch bottom. These can be used to remove any sort of wobble effect caused by the stem of the switch and stabilizes them, thereby bringing a change in the overall sound.
O-rings
An easy solution to dampen or make your keystrokes softer, o-rings are fairly cheap and easy to install. These are small rubber rings placed inside the keycaps. Once installed, these o-rings act as a buffer between the top of the key switch and the top of the keycap, thereby removing any friction and clack sounds caused by the two plastics coming into contact with each other.
Cable mods
Image : Clark Kable
There are numerous guides online to upgrade and customize your keyboard cable. Most full-size keyboards come with a cable connected directly to the PCB board. If you're planning to upgrade the cable to maybe a stronger braided one, you'll need to open up the keyboard and use a soldering iron, which again isn't an easy job. Smaller TKL and compact keyboards come with a detachable cable. These are easier to replace as you can get higher quality or even colored ones. There are also some really good-looking coiled cables, but those can get really expensive and are meant for keyboards with detachable cables.
If you're ambitious, you can even go ahead and replace the USB connector on your keyboard with a Bluetooth receiver to convert it into a wireless keyboard. Of course, that modification isn't a walk in the park.
These are some of the most common keyboard modifications, but the sky's the limit if we're honest. We’ve seen some crazy modifications online, from custom casing to artisan keycaps. One of the latest trends in the keyboard modification world is modular keyboard kits. These are different parts of the keyboard that you can order and assemble on your own. The benefit here is you have the liberty to choose the casing, the switches, and the keycaps. The Glorious GMMK is one of the many custom modular keyboard kits you can try.
I've had to use O rings on my mechanical keyboard, to try to bring the noise level down. It didn't really work in my case. I ended up just removing them.
Related
Hello, I was searching for a leather case for my Kaiser for two months now.
Here is what I expected from my case :
1) - I wanted my screen protected with something hard.
2) - the case should let me answer the phone without removing anything.
3) - it should let me open the keyboard without removing the whole case.
4) - I didn't want any plastic thing covering my keyboard once the keyboard is opened.
And I found the perfect case that match my wishes !
Well, I said "perfect" ? Let's see ...
The case is the Designio leather case, here it is :
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Lets' check if it really match my wishes ...
1) - the protective "door" for the screen is really hard, yes, it will really protect my screen. Also, the closure of the door is very good : there is a magnet in the leather case, so the door open/close very easily and remains closed in the pocket (attracted by the magnet). So this protective "door" for the screen is a very good point !
2) - you can easily answer the phone while the case is closed. When your phone rings, nothing to do except pushing the green button. All the buttons around the pad still have a good access with this case. New good point !
3) & 4) - to open the keyboard, I need, this time, to remove the whole upper side of the case. I didn't expected something better, I think we just can't do anything better than this. The keyboard opens very easily here again, the leather is very well adjusted, nothing touch the screen while you let it slide to see the keyboard. Once the keyboard is opened, nothing covers it so the keys are very easy to access and keep their original typing comfort. Again, good point !
But all isn't good ... Now the bad points ...
- When you power off your device, if the upper side of the case is opened, while pressing the power button the Kaiser "pop up" from case, it's very dangerous, it could just drop from the case. So you need to take your Kaiser in both hands to power it off, or close the upper side of the case before.
- Some buttons are a little hard to access. The side "OK" button is partially covered (just a little) by the leather. So it's sometimes hard to press it.
- The hole made for the stylus should be in a higher position. So it is also hard to remove the stylus. The good side of this is that it will now be harder to lose the stylus !
- The hole made for the power button is not big enough, you need to press the hole very strong to touch the button, or you can use your nail as the button access will then be easier, but I hate this.
- The size : to have two leather layers on the screen is very protective but takes of course more room in your pocket. I think the Kaiser, in this case, is about 1cm bigger (from the side view). I will let people convert it into inches if they need !
- Last but not least : I have a problem with my case, the first cover of the screen (the one around the screen, not the "door" wich covers the whole screen) is not well made. The button (in french we say "pressure button", I don't know what's the english word for this) wich let it close is not at the right place. So when I close it, it's a little down, covering a little part of my screen (the bottom right). It's not a very big issue because it's only covering a very little part the screen (I'd say about 2mm), but this sucks anyway. If only they had put this button just 1 mm higher, the protective leather part would perfectly fit the screen. These days, I'm focusing on this problem and it makes me angry !
Is this problem specific to my case ? I'm not sure ... When I look at some shots of this case on the web, sometimes I can see the same problem on the commercial shot ! There may be a way to fix this problem, I'm working on that, but I don't want to cut the leather, that's the hard thing to think about.
Conclusion :
This case does its job : to protect your Kaiser. I have no doubt about this, the only thing wich is not covered is the pad and its buttons. Some buttons should have a better access, but they are still accessible.
The finish is very good, it could be a high price product ...
I think it's worth the price, of course depending on where you buy it. I bought mine in a Hong Kong shop on Ebay. The price was about 15€, shipping included. I waited for it for 3 weeks, so be patient !
I just hope for you, if you buy it, that you will not have the issue I had with the "pressure button" wich is not at the exact place it should be... Just one millimeter higher and it would just be perfect !!!
Edit/Delete Message
DISCLAIMER: AS USUAL, THIS HOWTO IS PROVIDED "AS IS", I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE TO ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE AS A RESULT OF AN ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE.
There are numerous thread about the poor in-call sound quality of the Atrix. This thread addresses the problem where your voice sound muffled, where the people you are talking to have problems hearing you clearly.
The problem on my Atrix was dust build-up around the microphone. There is a small compartment below the microphone hole. Then there is a fine mesh protector located in a rubber sealing, protecting the actual microphone on the motherboard. The dust had gotten in through the microphone hole and accumulated in the small compartment.
Removing the dust and cleaning the fine protecting mesh made my microphone able to produce significantly more clear sound, especially in the higher frequencies ("s-" and "sch-" sounds). It was not a miracle cure producing crisp crystal-clear sound, but I'd say the sound quality went from "sub-adequate" and "annoyingly poor" too "perfectly acceptable, still not comparable to the best". Your result all depends on how much dust your Atrix has managed to accumulate over time.
What you DO NOT need:
* Use of force (unless specified in this guide)
* Use of sharp metal objects (unless specified in this guide)
* Impatience
What you DO need:
* Delicate fingers
* Patience
* Phone repair experience or general aptitude. If you are patient, careful and steady on your hand then you can do this, just take your time and read and think carefully before you act.
* ifixit teardown guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
* Tools listed in guide above: Torx T5 tool, Plastic prying tools (AGAIN, avoid using metal)
General advice:
* read this guide in its entirety before going to work on your phone
* use common sense, I'm just a human writing this guide from the top of my head, trying to help people. This guide might not be 100% perfect, YOU (NOT ME) ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE
* Phones are small and delicate, using force will likely break something.
* Before removing any "layer" (plastic cover, motherboard etc), lift slowly, softly, and MAKE SURE you won't break any cables or anything.
* Layers are often meant to be lifted in a specific way or folded in a specific direction. See how the cables go and bend, figure it out.
What to do:
1. Follow the ifixit guide all the way to (and including) step 7. Make sure to unhook the antenna cable from the chassis and to lift the connector straight up when disconnecting.
2. The microphone is on the bottom of the motherboard. The small compartment and mesh that needs cleaning is in the middle of the semi-transparent rubber sealing seen in the bottom of the picture of step 7.
3. CRITICAL AND HARD STEP! To get to the dusty compartment I removed the motherboard. (This might not be necessary, it might be possible to just fold the motherboard to the side with the connectors for the flat cables, thus not having to disconnect these. Try it out if you like.) It's a bit tricky getting the motherboard to get free. You need to use a bit of force to get the HDMI and USB connectors out of their sockets in the chassis, I pressed the motherboard away from the sockets using no more force than necessary. Make sure you get no "recoil" when they pop out! On the other side of the motherboard are the connectors for the flat cables. The flat cables and connectors are fragile, take care not to damage them. Two are just to pop out, one you need to lift the black bar/lever on the far edge to get the ZIF (zero insertion force) flat cable out. Connecting these cables again will be tricky, so if you can get to the compartment without disconnecting, that would save some time but it will be more difficult to clean with the motherboard hanging on too...
4. (See attached picture.) Lift the rubber sealing. Clean out any dust in the small compartment inside the front microphone hole. Clean the protective mesh and blow through it making sure it's not clogged. I used a slightly moist cotton stick for the cleaning, use no solvents.
5. Put everything back!
Hope this helps!
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So I recently acquired an hd2 I worked on for someone some time ago to put android on. They tell me that after they took a shower the screen stopped responding to touch.
Looking at it closely, it indeed does not respond to touch, but the screen also randomly will come on.
This leads me to believe that the hardware buttons are stuck and thus will not let the screen be touched. Either the volume buttons or the front ones.
What is your opinion on this?
Which is more likely that needs replacing?
could be front buttons sticking as had this on one of our HD2s
Normally it is related to digitizer ribbon (complete digitizer being the fix) & its proximity to buttons is why button pressing affects it.
Do some searches on keywords for this issue as a lot has been covered on this over the last 1yr+
I've done some research already as for the buttons sticking, but in all the post I read these people still had use of their screens. While in this case the screen isnt usable.
It's well within my ability to replace the digitizer, despite needing to solder. So it's not a huge issue if I need to replace that.
But I would rather it be the front buttons aha.
Is there any way to test to see if it's the buttons?
*and on a side note, while taking it apart somehow one of the buttons on the volume rocker came off. I'm pretty sure I just need to stick it back on tho, since it doesn't seem to have any real physical connection aside from when it pressed down.
I done the button board as button cap was sticking & easily diagnosed.
Digitizer is most likely culprit ...
In regards to Volume, if you are referring to the very small caps that are on the button board then yes you need to stick it back but alignment is critical or volume key will not push it well or feel weak.
Button boards are rubbish design concept on HD2, compare it to a Desire G5 or 9yr old Magician & I have no idea how they ended up going down the route they did ...
Thanks for the awesome advice. Very helpful.
What do you think could be causing the screen to randomly turn on then?
Mmm is the screen dead to touch after turning on via end key.
Can you turn on via other key & digitizer responds ?
Does any of the button board keys (especially end) feel very weak to press or like the cap is stuck down or not lifting as well as should.
Same principal is used on button board as volume key with small concave caps & they can cause issues, certainly worth investigating & checking out button board before committing any purchases.
Also take your time and make every effort to assemble well & with care as minor glitch results in useless junk & wasted money ...
The digitizer doesnt work right after it's turned on by using the end button. It's completely unresponsive.
The only button that seem to be a tad loose is the windows button.
The digitizer also did stop working after the previous owner had it playing music in the bathroom. I'm thinking the moisture from the steam caused this.
So after much fiddling and lurking around the internet I found this post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1213809
which didn't seem to have much info. Just said to press VERY hard on the power button. I did it for "why the hell not" sake, and it worked!! Though intermittently.
I'm quite sure this proves the hardware buttons are going bad, so I will be purchasing a new button strip to put in.
Now I have to figure out how to reflash winmo 6.5 so that I can use a sim-unlock code.
21q said:
I'm quite sure this proves the hardware buttons are going bad, so I will be purchasing a new button strip to put in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I think is quite the opposite: your touchscreen is the problem, not the buttons strip!!
Why is that?
the main flex for digitizer runs above & wraps into the panel just above power button.
pressure & movement transfers to this cable improving or worsening the contact of the flex & thus its status of function.
Your problem is more likely digi flex but button board is always wroth checking as have fixed digi issue via button flex once before.
Check everything & assume nothing but be advised digi flex is odds-on favourite.
Your sim unlock code may accept fine while on android, many Android & W7 ROMs allow unlock via code without issue.
Wouldn't I be able to just make the connection better then? or is this just damage to the actual flex cable?
Either damage to flex in bend around lcd or actually with flex feed join to digi.
Not really serviceable, replacement digi come with flex & flex alone is not replaceable.
Alright. I'll trust an experienced user on the hd2 over my guesses aha. I'll be ordering the new digitizer and let you all know how it goes once its done.
Thanks all!
So I ended up replacing the digitizer to fix the problem. I have to say I'm quite happy with the result.
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I think the rom causes the wifi radio to work realllyyyy horribly.
Not bad, what you done to get the grey silver look on digi edge ?
Wifi (if weak signal) could antenna/coax poor connector under rear cover but worth trying another rom or kernel before getting the t5 out
Mister B said:
Not bad, what you done to get the grey silver look on digi edge ?
Wifi (if weak signal) could antenna/coax poor connector under rear cover but worth trying another rom or kernel before getting the t5 out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks really cool. I checked ebay first thing, and it is available
http://www.ebay.com/itm/replacement...ltDomain_0&hash=item2c653c5ed9#ht_1107wt_1399
Just search "hd2 white digitizer"
The PC market continues to make headlines due to the global chipset crisis, not to mention the scarcity of GPUs worldwide. But today, we are looking at an important PC component that’s often overlooked or is usually an afterthought when buying or building a PC, despite being a key member of the board. There are tons of keyboards available in various shapes and sizes at different price points, and we’ve got a list of some of the best mechanical keyboards that you should consider for your next purchase.
Why should you buy a mechanical keyboard?Before we dive into some of the recommendations, let’s understand what exactly a mechanical keyboard is. Basically, a keyboard is defined by the switch it uses.
Cheaper keyboards usually incorporate a rubber-dome or a membrane switch system wherein a keypress pushes onto a silicone dome, connecting the circuit to register what the user is typing. These often require a large amount of force for actuation and give off mushy feedback due to the silicon underneath. These are relatively silent and don’t offer audible feedback, while the overall lifespan of the keys is also comparatively shorter.
When you press a key on a mechanical keyboard, an actual physical switch, including a spring-based pushback mechanism, comes into play. Depending on the type of key switch, you get a certain tactile or linear feedback as you type along. While that in itself makes a huge difference, these switches also last really long, with certain manufacturers claiming up to 50-80 million keystrokes.
In short, mechanical keyboards offer a longer shelf life, and you can expect a much better typing experience thanks to the wide variety of switch options.
Corsair K100 RGB
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The best full-sized mechanical keyboard has to be Corsair’s K100 RGB. Not only is it one of the most expensive ones, but this keyboard has it all. It comes with a polling rate of up to 4000Hz and 0.5ms response time, making it the fastest keyboard that money can buy. It also comes with Corsair’s OPX optical-mechanical key switches that use a beam of infrared light to register an actuation, which means a fast and precise keypress registration at a 1.0mm actuation point. Corsair also sells the K100 with Cherry MX Speed Silver switches with an actuation distance of 1.2mm.
The keyboard also offers macro support, a dedicated control wheel for various functions, and to top it off, per-key RGB backlighting with a 44-zone three-sided RGB edge lighting. It also comes with highly durable construction and premium design, making it one of the most desirable keyboards on the market.
Buy from Amazon
Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro
The Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro is the best mechanical keyboard for those who don't like wires. It's a full-size keyboard that's great for gaming or just regular typing. It's available with Razer’s Green switches for a clicky, tactile feel, or you can go for the Yellow switches that are linear, silent, and offer a smooth keystroke. The BlackWidow V3 Pro comes with a premium design, including a plush leatherette wrist rest and double-shot ABS keycaps.
You can use the keyboard with Razer’s HyperSpeed wireless tech using a USB dongle for low latency or go the traditional way using Bluetooth or wired. There are also some dedicated media keys, a volume control wheel, and individually RGB-backlit keys that can be controlled using Razer’s software.
Buy from Amazon
Corsair K70 RGB TKL
Corsair’s newly launched K70 RGB TKL is the best TKL (Tenkeyless) keyboard and in our opinion, gives a tough competition to Logitech’s G915 TKL. It isn’t wireless, but Corsair’s AXON technology can deliver a polling rate of 8000Hz over a wired USB connection. This makes it twice as fast as the company’s most premium offering, the K100 RGB. The keyboard is available with either Cherry MX Speed Silver or Cherry MX Red switches.
Corsair hasn’t cut any corners here and has made the K70 RGB TKL to match the requirements of professional esports gamers. It comes with a solid metal frame, dedicated media keys and volume dial, and a special 'Tournament Switch' that can be flipped to move to static backlighting and disable accidental macro activations automatically.
Buy from Amazon
Logitech G915 TKL
Logitech makes some of the best gaming peripherals, and the G915 TKL is a pristine wireless mechanical keyboard. It’s an ultra-thin keyboard with low-profile keycaps backed by Logitech’s custom-made low-profile GL switches available in either clicky, tactile, or linear type. Using the company’s Lightspeed wireless technology, the G915 TKL comes with a response rate that's as good as a wired keyboard, while the battery can last about 40 hours with the RGB lighting enabled. Although I really wish Logitech would stop using micro-USB for charging its peripherals.
Additionally, the keyboard includes Bluetooth, when low-latency is not required, dedicated media control keys, and a volume scroll wheel. If tenkeyless is not your thing, Logitech also has a full-size version.
Buy from Amazon
Razer Huntsman Mini
Hands down the best compact 60% keyboard, the Razer Huntsman Mini is a delight for customers who like to keep things minimal. Razer offers the keyboard with newly updated linear red switches with a 1.2mm actuation distance and 48g actuation force. In comparison, the clicky purple switches come with a 1.5mm actuation distance and 45g actuation force. It features solid-looking PBT keycaps and a USB Type-C cable for connectivity.
Of course, it comes with Razer’s Chroma RGB lighting, a solid aluminum chassis, onboard memory for up to five profiles, and side-printed secondary functions on the keycaps. The Huntsman Mini is available in either Black or Mercury (White) color options.
Buy from Amazon
Glorious GMMK
Claimed to be the world’s first modular mechanical keyboard with RGB lighting, the Glorious GMMK is for someone who wants something future-proof. It comes preinstalled with Gateron brown switches with black or white ABS double-shot injection keycaps depending on which color you go for. It's also available in full, tenkeyless, and compact form factors, thus offering a wide choice for the user to choose from.
It has a simple, minimal-looking design, so it doesn’t look very loud. Apart from the keycaps, the switches can also be removed if you change your mind in the future about the kind of switches you want. The company hasn’t missed out on RGB, and you can control that without installing any software, which is neat.
Buy from Amazon
Keychron K4 V2
Keychron started as a Kickstarter project, but today offers a wide range of keyboards. One of the best offerings is the Keychron K4, a full-size keyboard with a 96% layout, available with a variety of customization options. You can get the keyboard with white or RGB backlighting and there is the option of an aluminum frame for more rigid construction. The keyboard comes with Gateron Red, Blue, or Brown key switch options, and you can also opt for the hot-swappable variant to quickly move between switches.
The keyboard is great for both Windows and Mac operating systems and it offers wireless connectivity via Bluetooth or regular wired connection via USB.
Buy from Amazon
Redragon K552
If you are on a tight budget, say under $50, you can check out the Redragon K552. It isn't the most premium mechanical keyboard, but overall the keyboard should serve you well for most use cases. It is a tenkeyless keyboard with clicky Outemu Blue switches that mimic Cherry MX Blue, but there's also a variant with linear Red switches. Fully compatible with Windows and Linux, the Redragon K552 can also be used with macOS but with limited functionality. Other notable features include full RGB backlighting with 18 different effects, a splash-proof metal and plastic chassis, n-Key rollover, 12 multimedia keys, and the option of a white color variant.
Overall the keyboard is pretty good and responsive for gamers although it might offer higher latency than most keyboards. It's also suitable for typing and office use cases as the keys are light, but they can get noisy so the keyboard might not fit well with users looking for a silent experience.
Buy from Amazon
These are some of the best mechanical keyboards in our books. Share your thoughts and tell us if we have missed a certain category or form factor that you would be interested in.
Developers, gamers, and individuals who occasionally type love mechanical consoles for their consistency, responsiveness to contact, and customisable keypads.
G Pro X Logitech: Thanks to the hot-swappable key switches, you can easily alter the feel of the keys on this keyboard. Additionally, it has a compact design and programmable RGB lighting.
Bluetooth KeyBee from iGear Pro: It is compatible with numerous gadgets, including iOS, Android, Windows, and Mac OS, and has a sleek and lightweight design. It also supports Bluetooth, making it possible to connect without using cables.
Professional Edition of Das Keyboard: With a sleek aluminum top panel and braided cable, this keyboard is known for its high-quality construction. Cherry MX Brown or Blue key switches are available.
Razer Huntsman Tip Top: The Opto-Mechanical key switches on this keyboard, manufactured by Razer, offer quick response times and tactile feedback. It also features customizable RGB lighting and a magnetic wrist rest.
Mechanical keyboards are all the rage. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, wired or wireless, and of course, with and without fancy RGB lighting. But the most important factor to consider while buying a mechanical keyboard has to be the key switch. Choosing the right key switch can make a huge difference as opposed to a membrane-based keyboard. They are more reliable and offer a more personalized experience by offering varied feedback and travel time depending on which one you choose. Mechanical keyboard switches also tend to have a much better shelf life lasting millions of keystrokes.
What is a Mechanical Keyboard Switch?A switch within the context of a keyboard is the mechanism underneath the keys. On a mechanical keyboard, each key has its own complete switch mechanism, comprising of a housing, a spring, a stem, and some other parts like click bars. Variations can be made on several of these components, giving rise to a plethora of options on the actual switch with different properties like the amount of pressure needed to actuate and to bottom out, the sound made, the travel distance, and more.
Practically all mechanical keyboards allow for the keycaps to be removed. And quite a lot of keyboards also allow for switching around for the switch mechanisms. If this swapping option is not available to the user, there's usually an option to choose the keyboard switch type at the time of purchase. This makes it quite imperative to know and understand the different types of mechanical switches present, in order to make the correct choice that suits your needs.
Types of Key SwitchesMechanical keyboard switches are broadly available in three categories. Depending on their characteristics, they are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
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Linear switches usually feel smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation or the registering of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily. Many gamers prefer investing in keyboards with linear switches, with the most common one being Cherry MX Red.
Tactile switches have a similar construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate, thus becoming the preferred choice of typists. Cherry MX Brown switches are one of the most popular among the variety of tactile keyboard switches available in the market.
Clicky switches follow the same concept as tactile switches, which means they're bumpy, but at the same time, they are louder by design. These key switches offer a bump along with additional audio feedback, which is pretty satisfying, almost like an old typewriter. However, this can be annoying for people around you, especially in an office environment. If you like having a nice clicky keyboard, you could look at Cherry MX Blue switches.
Which Key Switch should I get?Based on the above characteristics, you'll find various types of switches offered by several manufacturers. Cherry MX is the most popular and widely accepted key switch and was also one of the first to classify them by color. Primarily, you need to know that Red or Black switches are linear, Brown or Clear switches are tactile, while Blue or Green switches are clicky. Depending on the keyboard OEM, these can differ but most of them are aligned with Cherry's color-coding. We will be discussing them in detail in a future post.
Most users recommend linear-type switches for gaming as they offer a consistent keystroke adding precision to every keypress. Typists usually prefer tactile or clicky switches as these allow for a faster keystroke experience. To be clear, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to key switches. Depending on your personal preference, you can choose between either of the three options. Personally, I’ve used linear type switches for a while now, and in my opinion, they work great for typing and gaming. Having said that, there are certain factors that you should consider while investing in a mechanical keyboard.
First and foremost, you need to make sure that the key switches last a long time. You don't want to spend a lot of money on a keyboard that doesn’t have a solid shelf life. Usually, mechanical switches have a lifespan ranging up to 50-80 million keystrokes, with Cherry MX switches offering a guarantee of 100 million keystrokes. Avoid buying a keyboard with cheap or unknown mechanical switches at all costs.
Make sure you get the right switch with the right set of keycaps. Certain keyboard manufacturers offer low-profile keycaps to reduce the overall weight. These should work well for users who have smaller hands or don't type with heavy force. Speaking of which, ensure that you invest in a keyboard that offers the right amount of spring force as well as travel distance. A strong spring force can tend to put a strain on your fingers. Similarly, opting for a keyboard that offers a short key travel distance means that you don't have to mash every key.
I made the mistake of getting blue switches for my first mechanical keyboard. I had not done enough research, so I wasn't prepared to have the loudest keyboard on the planet. I got lots of complaints while in voice calls because other people could hear my keyboard through my microphone.
XDARoni said:
I made the mistake of getting blue switches for my first mechanical keyboard. I had not done enough research, so I wasn't prepared to have the loudest keyboard on the planet. I got lots of complaints while in voice calls because other people could hear my keyboard through my microphone.
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Oh no! Have you tried anything other than blue switches?
I like the Red Kailh switches cause I don't like the click