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Designio leather case reviewed... By me !

Hello, I was searching for a leather case for my Kaiser for two months now.
Here is what I expected from my case :
1) - I wanted my screen protected with something hard.
2) - the case should let me answer the phone without removing anything.
3) - it should let me open the keyboard without removing the whole case.
4) - I didn't want any plastic thing covering my keyboard once the keyboard is opened.
And I found the perfect case that match my wishes !
Well, I said "perfect" ? Let's see ...
The case is the Designio leather case, here it is :
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Lets' check if it really match my wishes ...
1) - the protective "door" for the screen is really hard, yes, it will really protect my screen. Also, the closure of the door is very good : there is a magnet in the leather case, so the door open/close very easily and remains closed in the pocket (attracted by the magnet). So this protective "door" for the screen is a very good point !
2) - you can easily answer the phone while the case is closed. When your phone rings, nothing to do except pushing the green button. All the buttons around the pad still have a good access with this case. New good point !
3) & 4) - to open the keyboard, I need, this time, to remove the whole upper side of the case. I didn't expected something better, I think we just can't do anything better than this. The keyboard opens very easily here again, the leather is very well adjusted, nothing touch the screen while you let it slide to see the keyboard. Once the keyboard is opened, nothing covers it so the keys are very easy to access and keep their original typing comfort. Again, good point !
But all isn't good ... Now the bad points ...
- When you power off your device, if the upper side of the case is opened, while pressing the power button the Kaiser "pop up" from case, it's very dangerous, it could just drop from the case. So you need to take your Kaiser in both hands to power it off, or close the upper side of the case before.
- Some buttons are a little hard to access. The side "OK" button is partially covered (just a little) by the leather. So it's sometimes hard to press it.
- The hole made for the stylus should be in a higher position. So it is also hard to remove the stylus. The good side of this is that it will now be harder to lose the stylus !
- The hole made for the power button is not big enough, you need to press the hole very strong to touch the button, or you can use your nail as the button access will then be easier, but I hate this.
- The size : to have two leather layers on the screen is very protective but takes of course more room in your pocket. I think the Kaiser, in this case, is about 1cm bigger (from the side view). I will let people convert it into inches if they need !
- Last but not least : I have a problem with my case, the first cover of the screen (the one around the screen, not the "door" wich covers the whole screen) is not well made. The button (in french we say "pressure button", I don't know what's the english word for this) wich let it close is not at the right place. So when I close it, it's a little down, covering a little part of my screen (the bottom right). It's not a very big issue because it's only covering a very little part the screen (I'd say about 2mm), but this sucks anyway. If only they had put this button just 1 mm higher, the protective leather part would perfectly fit the screen. These days, I'm focusing on this problem and it makes me angry !
Is this problem specific to my case ? I'm not sure ... When I look at some shots of this case on the web, sometimes I can see the same problem on the commercial shot ! There may be a way to fix this problem, I'm working on that, but I don't want to cut the leather, that's the hard thing to think about.
Conclusion :
This case does its job : to protect your Kaiser. I have no doubt about this, the only thing wich is not covered is the pad and its buttons. Some buttons should have a better access, but they are still accessible.
The finish is very good, it could be a high price product ...
I think it's worth the price, of course depending on where you buy it. I bought mine in a Hong Kong shop on Ebay. The price was about 15€, shipping included. I waited for it for 3 weeks, so be patient !
I just hope for you, if you buy it, that you will not have the issue I had with the "pressure button" wich is not at the exact place it should be... Just one millimeter higher and it would just be perfect !!!
Edit/Delete Message

wierd ticking noise when shaking the phone

Today i noticed a wierd ticking noise when shaking my phone . It's not that loud , it's around the phone-speaker and i suspect some kind of spring from the slide , because when i hold the phone firmly in the speaker area the noise dissapears , also when sliding the screen(during the slide. when completly opened it reappears) the noise deissapear , and when i push a bit the screen in the direction that it is (forcing it to stay closed or open).
Does anyone else has this problem ? Because i don't thing that warranty will consider this as a problem , and change my phone.
The phone is not having any hardware problems , but the ticking noise just annoys me .

I believe this is just the slide mechanism.
What are you doing shaking your phone anyway?

Hmm I think I found this problem discussed b4.
The sound came from some part under the optical pad, and as I know, every X1 is.

a normal sound coming from the sliding mechanism.
please check my thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=457777

anaadoul said:
a normal sound coming from the sliding mechanism.
please check my thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=457777
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we all hear it, it is normal, not something broken or loose.

thanks for sharing , i also suspected the slide mecanism , but i didn't know it this sound is normal . now i feel better knowing that there is nothing wrong with my phone , but is still pretty iritating , hearing it sometimes when using the phone (voice call)

LOL=) It's the pen!

If the sound originates from the top of the phone, most definitely it's the camera; more specifically the auto focus mechanism. From what I read here on XDA, it would seem that it's not a Q.C. problem and it's normal for it to "rattle", "click", "tick" or whatever else you can make sense of it.

I've had a few devices from just about every manufacturer, and I've noticed the sound you're describing in about 30% of my devices. Some manufacturers are worse than others - like Motorola - but I've never seen a link between the "rattle" and phone malfunction. In my opinion, it's perfectly normal - best not to think about it

zzone said:
thanks for sharing , i also suspected the slide mecanism , but i didn't know it this sound is normal . now i feel better knowing that there is nothing wrong with my phone , but is still pretty iritating , hearing it sometimes when using the phone (voice call)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
don't worry you will forget it's even there so soon
thinhvo said:
If the sound originates from the top of the phone, most definitely it's the camera; more specifically the auto focus mechanism. From what I read here on XDA, it would seem that it's not a Q.C. problem and it's normal for it to "rattle", "click", "tick" or whatever else you can make sense of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what i was hearing was the sliding mechanism, if you hold the 2 parts (bottom and top) and press them (the gap between them will become almost zero) the sound will disappear
oakleaf said:
LOL=) It's the pen!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think so, the pen is in a fixed location, and it exactly fits there so i don't think it can move in the compartment.

Hi,
I also have this ticking noise, and has some one posted before, I found out it comes from small wheels between the screen and keyboard of the sliding mechanism.
I post here some pics that show them:
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The two wheels in each side on back of the screen.
One wheel in more detail:
These wheels I believe they should run on the sides of the keyboard as I show on next picture.
I think the problem is that this wheels are loose and flying in spite of running on top of the keyboard. I also note that my screen is not totally stable, specially when open, and is a bit loose in relation to the X1 body.
I believe that this wheels should be there for stabilizing the screen and to give a smoother sliding effect, which I find not very the case of my X1.
I also think it's not normal to put wheels that are never grounded (as far as I can see on my X1) and only are there for making noise.
An easy way to check and patch the problem is to put two or three slices of paper stacked over the sides of the keyboard (on the red lines of last picture). In this way you fill the gap between the wheels and the keyboard body and the noise will stop. Besides the slide is smoother and screen is more stable.
I think this is a major fabrication issue, because apparently, at least I couldn't find anyone that doesn't have this problem.
Anyone doesn't have this issue on X1?

I believe that som X1's have the wheelrattle, but not all that rattle are because of the wheels.
There's an example on how my phone sounds after the second repair of the batterycompartment crack.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=482022

Guys!
Its just the sound of the sort-of-free volume/camera buttons
If you just touch both during shacking, you will make sure that there is no tick sound
I guess

nu it's the wheels guiding the screen. if you press the screen up and down , you will see that the noise dissapears. it's as clear as possible explained in the pictures above

zzone said:
nu it's the wheels guiding the screen. if you press the screen up and down , you will see that the noise dissapears. it's as clear as possible explained in the pictures above
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My noise does not dissappear when putting pressure on the wheels..
Listen to my X1 rattle here and see if you have the same rattle.

does the touch screen suppose to bend when I press it ?

When I press the touch screen of my Touch HD, it bends. It's like there is a top layer on the screen that can bend. there is quite a lot of travel and this seems very weird, the travel is mainly at the middle of the screen.
I'm coming from the Touch Diamond where it felt like the entire touch screen is made out of glass and can not bend at all.
Is this normal ?

...
can you post some pictures?

Mine bends like >0.1 mm.
Now that you mention it, it bends a lot more than the qtek s200 that I had.
Do you have any pressure sensitivity problem?
If not I think it's normal.

Mr.Wolf said:
Mine bends like >0.1 mm.
Now that you mention it, it bends a lot more than the qtek s200 that I had.
Do you have any pressure sensitivity problem?
If not I think it's normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
agreed, this is normal. it isnt glass

my opinion is that is normal
thing about the large surface of the screen, the thin layers that it is made of and the fact that there is nothing on the back to prevent the bending
i belive even if it was made of steel the bending would be there

Thanks guys.
I can't post pics because the effect is too minimal to be seen. I don't seem to have major pressure sensitivity issues, maybe something minimal, especially at the middle of the screen, this was more obvious when aligning the screen, the X at the center took a few clicks to register... but in normal usage it seems to be fine.

As far as I know the HD has a resistive touch screen like most touch screen phones do. If you search for the wiki on touch screens you'll see that the screen is supposed to bend very slightly. That's how it works.

This is normal

My first set bend quite obviously and i did a 1-to-1 exchange. The second set is slightly better thou at certain areas, it bends a bit more than the rest. I find this kinda annoying as why the diamond and pro doesn't bend when both utilizes resistive screen too? Some other phones like the omnia that utilizes resistive screen don't bend either. Just a thought.

On smaller screens it's less noticeable, that's all.

It's just a resistive touchscreen feature.
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gaelynx said:
It's just a resistive touchscreen feature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But there is a difference wheter you are touching in the center or in the corner area. Its not really a problem, but its noticable.

gaelynx said:
It's just a resistive touchscreen feature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As they say a picture is worth a thousand words...

nstein said:
As they say a picture is worth a thousand words...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine only bends in the lower center but it is noticeable and very annoying. Also i need to press with pressure on screen to make make selection needed. It might be correct that the screen resolution is great but i feel sorry for that cheap type of screens installed.

If you need to press more on that area then it's not normal, my screen doesn't seem to bend at all, and I don't need to put more force in the center to "click"

So should I ask for replacement ? I feel like pressing on 2 layer screen when taping. the first layer bends to touch the second.

I contacted the dealer, They took a look at the device and told me that they can do nothing as long as the screen is fully fonctional. Actually it is really annoying to feel the screen bending when u press on it with ur thumb. I wish I didnt buy that device....

Xeon said:
So should I ask for replacement ? I feel like pressing on 2 layer screen when taping. the first layer bends to touch the second.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i noticed the same thing after few days of having my HD....when touching the center of the screen i can feel the two layers more than in the edges...but i never feel the need to press harder there.....
finally, when i use the phone not thinking about that, i really doesn´t notice that at all...so it's just a mental thing for me ...

Xeon said:
I contacted the dealer, They took a look at the device and told me that they can do nothing as long as the screen is fully fonctional. Actually it is really annoying to feel the screen bending when u press on it with ur thumb. I wish I didnt buy that device....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is normal. The bending is what makes that type of screen work.
It happens in all the Touch HD's since the screen is not capacitive (like the one in iPhone) but resistive (it is not glass but kind of plastic that is very easy to scratch). It feels the pressure and not the "touch".
So it has to bend...
For me it is the worst thing about Touch HD and all the windows mobile devices: the fact of using a much cheaper resistive screen (and with much less sensivity) instead of a capacitive one...
The only advantage is that it is possible to use the stylus. For me it would be MUCH better with a capacitive touch screen. But since it uses windows mobile, the device is always "stylus dependent" so a capacitive touch screen would make some functions (that require the stylus) very hard to use.
So if you want a capacitive touch screen buy an iphone or an android device. Those were made from the beggining to use with the finger. Windows mobile was made to use with the stylus and now there are some improvements (some kind of "mask" like touchflo 3D) that make possible to use the finger. But unhappyly it will always require the stylus for some functions.

Hardware for cam flash idea

Thing's you will need;
drill and drill bit
4 pieces of electrical wire
"super bright" "super thin" LED (ebay £1-£5)
Small amount of sticky back plastic
Small amount of Electrical tape
Pliers
How to;
Firstly remove your back cover off the x8.
measure up the LED. and get a drill bit to match the size,
Drill approximatly 5-15mm under the camera lense hole and secure LED here. (it doesn't have to be here it could be at the other side of the Xperia badge but just dont put it too close to camera lense as it will light up your pictures too much)
take X2 piece's of wire connect them to LED and flow them across the inside of your phone to the connection pads where the camera button is operated.
Secure wireing with sticky back plastic and use electrical tape to cover any "open" wireing.
take another X2 pieces and connect to battery and the physical camera button
Now when the Camera button is pressed down the 4 pieces of wire will meet and thus making the "superbright LED" light up your scenery perfectly.
This is just a how to. a make shift light for our X8. in theory it work's
if you try this comment and let me know how your's has come along
Thank's and i hope i get some of you modding hardware not only the soft part

I'm sure this will work, but i don't have required materials.

Brilliant Idea!
Will purchase the materials and post pictures and a tutorial step by step =]

hello frds if we make this type camera light accessories
fit in3mm audio jek or in charger port
this camera light accessories work with k750 and etc
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monu09 said:
hello frds if we make this type camera light accessories
fit in3mm audio jek or in charger port
this camera light accessories work with k750 and etc
View attachment 709947
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember those. I only came up with the idea to put our own lighting into the phone's as i know there is no such item's available. and without it being built in i missed the quality of pic's in the dark so thought about making my own LED flash for the x8's camera, whilst this thought came to mind i thought i would give it to all who may be interested !
Thank's

Excellent idea, it remembers me something like this:

Or you can just take the x10 cam board out and replace it whit our x8 as it fits and works just Google it how to fix the x8 the cam has it own motherboard in it and so dose the x10 and that fit and work fine just get a bust x10 from eBay for penny's I did
PS I though every 1 done this if u do do this you need all drivers for the x10 cam that the only down side
post if I can find that web address again ill post it up for yous
super.sense on x8

BIG JD said:
Or you can just take the x10 cam board out and replace it whit our x8 as it fits and works just Google it how to fix the x8 the cam has it own motherboard in it and so dose the x10 and that fit and work fine just get a bust x10 from eBay for penny's I did
PS I though every 1 done this if u do do this you need all drivers for the x10 cam that the only down side
post if I can find that web address again ill post it up for yous
super.sense on x8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
False.. This is complete BS, why are you giving false information? Lol.. You must tell me where you buy that weed dude xD
The x8 camera connects tru a socket, the x10 connects tru a flex cable.. Also, the x10 is way bigger due the autofocus mechanism.
But please, post your source
Edit: OP, depending on the led you buy, you might also need a resistor.. Anyway, i think it's better to carry a mini torch light than to cut holes in the phone but thats just me.. If i want to take a good photo i use a proper camera. Also, you need basic soldering skills to "connect" the wire to the button. And not wanting to kill your dream please remind that the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed and you don't even know the voltage it passes tru there. By connecting it to the battery you will be exposing the circuit to 3.7 volts.. Not a very nice idea but HEYYY i don't want to judge any one, please go ahead and post feedback
Sent from my E15i using XDA App

Nikkopt said:
False.. This is complete BS, why are you giving false information? Lol.. You must tell me where you buy that weed dude xD
The x8 camera connects tru a socket, the x10 connects tru a flex cable.. Also, the x10 is way bigger due the autofocus mechanism.
But please, post your source
Edit: OP, depending on the led you buy, you might also need a resistor.. Anyway, i think it's better to carry a mini torch light than to cut holes in the phone but thats just me.. If i want to take a good photo i use a proper camera. Also, you need basic soldering skills to "connect" the wire to the button. And not wanting to kill your dream please remind that the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed and you don't even know the voltage it passes tru there. By connecting it to the battery you will be exposing the circuit to 3.7 volts.. Not a very nice idea but HEYYY i don't want to judge any one, please go ahead and post feedback Sent from my E15i using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well yea that's all true. i wouldn't use a solder iron though just "wrap" the wires round where they need to be. and the whole bit about "" the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed"" are you onabout the camera button? if so no it doesn't it just presses down the rubber button bit that activate's the camera

Raazax8 said:
and the whole bit about "" the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed"" are you onabout the camera button? if so no it doesn't it just presses down the rubber button bit that activate's the camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.. and how do you think it activates it wise guy? Magically? Also, rubber button? Are you sure you are on the right forum? This is not vintage-phones.com (if it exists).. Phones don't use rubber to make contact anymore, for ages now, and the ones that still have a rubber keypad use metal clickies behind them
I'm not bashing on you, you just don't seem to know what you are talking about and still insist that you are right..

-----------------

Nikkopt said:
Lol.. and how do you think it activates it wise guy? Magically? Also, rubber button? Are you sure you are on the right forum? This is not vintage-phones.com (if it exists).. Phones don't use rubber to make contact anymore, for ages now, and the ones that still have a rubber keypad use metal clickies behind them
I'm not bashing on you, you just don't seem to know what you are talking about and still insist that you are right..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i got stupidity shoe's on when typing that this morning.
i read it back to myself and thought i just said what they said but in layman's terms.
also i think you got the wrong end of the stick as i wouldn't put the wire "IN" the button's. just under the case where the camera button is "chrome button on side of phone" i would simply "fix 2 wires here" and on the side where the "chrome button" connects to the plastic that is onto of the "clickie" i would place 2 wires here. thus making a connection without touching any metal part of the phone itself
That is all !

Raazax8 said:
This is just a how to. a make shift light for our X8. in theory it work's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
^ See what i originally put ^
In theory it work's
I have not tried it and i won't attempt too either. just an idea i had and wanted to share !

Raazax8 said:
i would simply "fix 2 wires here" and on the side where the "chrome button" connects to the plastic that is onto of the "clickie" i would place 2 wires here. thus making a connection without touching any metal part of the phone itself
That is all !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned the connection pads in the first post so i immediately thought that you would use the clickie button itself, my apologies here.
Although this seems to work in theory, it wouldn't actually because when the cover is in place, the chromed plastic button that pushes the real one is already touching it, you can confirm this by pushing it softly and see that there is no travel space between them at all, it's always touching it, just not pressing this doesn't let you have space to put the wires to begin with

Nikkopt said:
You mentioned the connection pads in the first post so i immediately thought that you would use the clickie button itself, my apologies here.
Although this seems to work in theory, it wouldn't actually because when the cover is in place, the chromed plastic button that pushes the real one is already touching it, you can confirm this by pushing it softly and see that there is no travel space between them at all, it's always touching it, just not pressing this doesn't let you have space to put the wires to begin with
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.No problem iv got a solution LOL
It begins with a drill and a button.
Yes a separate button just for the flash do as i described but instead of under the camera button make your own flash button just above or below the camera button. this also double's your phone up as a torch aswell. GREAT
sorry but getting desperate for answer's in making this one work. lol
I repeat it's just a theory . i concede that it's a flawed theory

Lol.. well yes, that would work if you really managed to get all the wiring and the LED inside the casing. But lets be real, a LED doesn't really give much light to make a difference at all.
I just used a torch light just like this one: http://www.acsmarketing.biz/pic/hardwarebig/FR-7304 9 led torchlight big.jpg
It has 9, super bright.. and the pic still sucks, in fact they are almost identical .
The problem is that they give you a constant amount of light, and flash LEDs give you one or two bursts of much more intense light. It has to be in bursts because it makes them very hot, just like any camera flash..
Simple LEDs do help with close up pics, like scanning a bar-code on a paper for instance, BUT since our camera doesn't even have auto-focus, close up pictures are always blurry no matter the light

The quest for a perfect HD2

Well actually I just want my HD2 back the way it was, recently it's been giving me issues with the screen. I couldn't unlock it, and it would periodically work when I put immense pressure on the Call End button, however, after about 2 months of doing so, it stopped working completely. Normally it would work after 10-20 tries of unlocking it, but i tried for days, I tried every possible thing, and I really didn't want to resort to replacing the digitizer. Being 13 and all, it wasn't going to be easy, but I knew if my parents found out I'd be dead meat (I wouldn't blame them for going ballistic, I have a weird tendency to break things).
So I'm going to attempt a screen replacement, I've already opened it up (having an eBay account with money in it is is really helpful in my situation) and it isn't looking good... I've already snapped the ribbon cable for the lower button panel... luckily I ordered one off of eBay just in case it was on its last legs anyway. I've bought the following things.
-HTC HD2 Digitizer + Screen + All tools (Socket Digitizer) - £24.55
-T4, T5, T6, T7, and T8 Screwdriver set - £1.55
-HTC HD2 Lower button panel - £2.51
-HTC HD2 Anti-Glare Screen Protectors 5x - £1.19
-*MAYBE* HTC HD2 Rear battery cover £2.00
At first I was going to replace the digitizer until I saw all the risks, like damaging the screen itself and all that, and having to apply adhesive and using low level heat etc. So I just bought the whole assembly. Before I took it apart, I checked if I had a Socket Digitizer or a Solder Digitizer... yep, without taking it apart. I did this by holding the Volume Down Button and the Red Power Button, and I held this until I saw the 3 colour screen. On the 4th line down, this should be written 0x50 or 0x30, if it is 0x50, then you have a Socket Digitizer, if it's 0x30. It is the solder type. As you can see, my Digitizer is socket type, but this didn't really matter as I am going to replace the screen as well. I found the information about 3 coloured screen from somewhere from XDA, I can't quite remember where though.
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All of those things should be coming soon (except for the button pad, it was from china) so hopefully, I will have a perfect HD2 soon, however, for the moment, I am stuck with a T-Mobile Vairy Touch 2... Oh and can someone give me suggestions for the smoothest JB ROM for the HD2?
I just hope my HD2 doesn't die in the process...
Thanks for reading, I'll update as I go along

Worth noting the bootloader screen doesn't show the digitizer version always correctly when HSPL is installed, not that matters as you have a complete assembly anyway.
Only tips I will give is take a lot of care & keep all screws etc safe so not lost when re-assembly time comes. Take care when handling device not to damage snap off the spring fingers that contact against the aerials as they easily bent & break off when repositioning if not careful.
If you have lifted the entire ribbon board with volume key be very careful not to damage it or loose the small push caps on face of volume key & refit volume key properly.
When your parts turn up you can test function prior to assembly by plugging screen assembly into mainboard & attaching new button ribbon to mainboard, then hold the battery onto the mainboard contacts & press the power button & see screen & digitizer is working ok.
Good adhesive tape is needed to mount & hold the lcd to centre chassis & adding bit more tape than standard in places such as corners is not a bad thing.
Rest comes down to taking care & a bit of luck. Hope works out for you .

I can confirm that the bootloader was correct as my digitizer is the socket type. Oh and, when I took everything apart to check it actually was a socket type, the volume keys fell off, I put everything back together (without the motherboard and stuff) I put the volume keys back and It didn't feel right. I couldn't press the Increase Volume Button, however when I screwed it in place it felt better -but still wobbly and it feels like it's going to fall of with a little bit of pressure.
Can I check the condition of the screen and digitizer without the lower button panel. The Screen + Digitizer should come on Monday, but since the button panel was from china, it will take 2-3 weeks. And If I put extra adhesive will the rear frame fit?
Thanks for the tips

Be careful with those volume keys as the volume board is easily damaged, you will have to review that area carefully when doing final assembly.
If you have not fully stripped it yet then do not remove the flex board completely or all the cables running down by the volume key.
You can just loosen the flex ribbon across the bottom where plugs to mainboard & about 2cm+ up. With button board disconnected along with other cables the board will lift enough to access the lcd connector on the back. Use a toothpick to work the locking bar up off the lcd connector then lcd ribbon can be worked out using a tool or toothpick.
Saves a lot of work & all the tape on volume board remains factory spec with small strips wrapped round the push caps & build label is mainly untouched.
All you are doing with extra adhesive strip is putting it in a few areas that originally did not have strip laid on it & would look beneficial to aid support as none of the tapes have the same bond strength as original. Don't build up more than one layer of tape or thickness will make digi too high from housing edge.
I personally use PU40 adhesive and add 5 rice grain spots down sides & in corners & make gaps in tape for it as really holds the assembly nicely like original build were as tapes tend to come loose & lift in corners or feel spongy.
I would wait till button board turns up as very easy to test with that & other options just result in a lot of hassle & possible mishaps.
Do take care when removing & inserting the lcd ribbon as the mainboard socket is easily damaged then you will have lcd display issues or no touch & probably no chance of rectifying it. Sometimes those chinese orders can be surprisingly quick ...

Thanks for the extremely helpful information!
I will take care in replacing the Digitizer, I don't know what type of adhesive to buy, do I need adhesive strips; would something like this work?
Thanks for all the info, and I really do hope it's quick...
I really don't want my parents to find out
EDIT:
Would this tape be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Frame-Repair-Sticker-LCD-Tape-for-HTC-HD2-T8585-Adhesive-/130999079729?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneFascias_JN&hash=item1e80275331

Yes the LCDFIX frame tape would do & has the advantage of having the pre shaped black foam adhesive pads that seal & bond the top & bottom edges of digitizer.
The actual tape they supply is not that high tack as I have used it before but ok & if used with a little pu40 silicone adhesive the final build is much better long term ...
Don't think your parents should be complaining seems you are saving money & being environmentally active in repairing rather than scrapping.
Digitizer is common issue on the HD2 so probably not your bad on this occasion
Hope works out well & another HD2 is revived ...

I will look into that PU40 Silicone Adhesive as I don't want to be constantly opening and closing my HD2 so I do want it to be long term.
I think if they find out they will think I'm going to break it. I've already broken the button board ribbon cable, but as I said before I already bought one. Yeah, I noticed the amount of people with the same issue was a lot. But I have only had this phone for like 5 months (got it on eBay for £60), thought it was a good deal... 5 months down I need to replace the screen + digitizer. Why did HTC make an amazing phone with such a common fault
Thanks, I hope I don't kill my precious HD2

Well they can last about 2 to 3 years before failure which not too bad. Digitizer of that screen size & minimal bezel bonding was quite unique when HD2 came out & bezel size is only just being beaten now.
Ribbons tend to get brittle with age due to heat cycles they endure from the device & the one on digitizer also flexes a little when device twisted about in your pocket or right hand side keys used hard which all helps the failure.
As you found out with button board tail they are easily torn ... Would not beat yourself up over that as most people do a lot worse when opening an HD2.
If you use pu40 or similar adhesive sealant only very little spots are required, really does hold the corners in nicely & gives a more firm untouched feeling finish to the build.
Do check everything & plan the reassembly before actually doing it so nothing missed or made awkward, also you want device assembled before sealant fully dry so can lay HD2 on its back with a thick card spacer cut slightly smaller than the digitizer then add a book or 2 as needed to help seat the new assembly on the adhesive tape & get glass sat at right height. Normally if centre chassis not bent from removing old lcd assembly the rebuild fits back rather easily & perfect.

Well this is awkward...
Ah yes... so i did fix my phone, it was working perfectly!
However I forgot the key thing about myself, I destroy everything. Yep! The same day I fixed it, I was outside and i dropped it face first and now it has stopped working completely. The poor thing fell from quite a distance.
To make matters worst, I somehow lost my SIM Card, which had a good amount of credit. Luckily I'd been saving up and I've bought a HTC Sensation. Damn I miss my HD2