DISCLAIMER: AS USUAL, THIS HOWTO IS PROVIDED "AS IS", I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE TO ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE AS A RESULT OF AN ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE.
There are numerous thread about the poor in-call sound quality of the Atrix. This thread addresses the problem where your voice sound muffled, where the people you are talking to have problems hearing you clearly.
The problem on my Atrix was dust build-up around the microphone. There is a small compartment below the microphone hole. Then there is a fine mesh protector located in a rubber sealing, protecting the actual microphone on the motherboard. The dust had gotten in through the microphone hole and accumulated in the small compartment.
Removing the dust and cleaning the fine protecting mesh made my microphone able to produce significantly more clear sound, especially in the higher frequencies ("s-" and "sch-" sounds). It was not a miracle cure producing crisp crystal-clear sound, but I'd say the sound quality went from "sub-adequate" and "annoyingly poor" too "perfectly acceptable, still not comparable to the best". Your result all depends on how much dust your Atrix has managed to accumulate over time.
What you DO NOT need:
* Use of force (unless specified in this guide)
* Use of sharp metal objects (unless specified in this guide)
* Impatience
What you DO need:
* Delicate fingers
* Patience
* Phone repair experience or general aptitude. If you are patient, careful and steady on your hand then you can do this, just take your time and read and think carefully before you act.
* ifixit teardown guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
* Tools listed in guide above: Torx T5 tool, Plastic prying tools (AGAIN, avoid using metal)
General advice:
* read this guide in its entirety before going to work on your phone
* use common sense, I'm just a human writing this guide from the top of my head, trying to help people. This guide might not be 100% perfect, YOU (NOT ME) ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE
* Phones are small and delicate, using force will likely break something.
* Before removing any "layer" (plastic cover, motherboard etc), lift slowly, softly, and MAKE SURE you won't break any cables or anything.
* Layers are often meant to be lifted in a specific way or folded in a specific direction. See how the cables go and bend, figure it out.
What to do:
1. Follow the ifixit guide all the way to (and including) step 7. Make sure to unhook the antenna cable from the chassis and to lift the connector straight up when disconnecting.
2. The microphone is on the bottom of the motherboard. The small compartment and mesh that needs cleaning is in the middle of the semi-transparent rubber sealing seen in the bottom of the picture of step 7.
3. CRITICAL AND HARD STEP! To get to the dusty compartment I removed the motherboard. (This might not be necessary, it might be possible to just fold the motherboard to the side with the connectors for the flat cables, thus not having to disconnect these. Try it out if you like.) It's a bit tricky getting the motherboard to get free. You need to use a bit of force to get the HDMI and USB connectors out of their sockets in the chassis, I pressed the motherboard away from the sockets using no more force than necessary. Make sure you get no "recoil" when they pop out! On the other side of the motherboard are the connectors for the flat cables. The flat cables and connectors are fragile, take care not to damage them. Two are just to pop out, one you need to lift the black bar/lever on the far edge to get the ZIF (zero insertion force) flat cable out. Connecting these cables again will be tricky, so if you can get to the compartment without disconnecting, that would save some time but it will be more difficult to clean with the motherboard hanging on too...
4. (See attached picture.) Lift the rubber sealing. Clean out any dust in the small compartment inside the front microphone hole. Clean the protective mesh and blow through it making sure it's not clogged. I used a slightly moist cotton stick for the cleaning, use no solvents.
5. Put everything back!
Hope this helps!
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Related
Hello, I was searching for a leather case for my Kaiser for two months now.
Here is what I expected from my case :
1) - I wanted my screen protected with something hard.
2) - the case should let me answer the phone without removing anything.
3) - it should let me open the keyboard without removing the whole case.
4) - I didn't want any plastic thing covering my keyboard once the keyboard is opened.
And I found the perfect case that match my wishes !
Well, I said "perfect" ? Let's see ...
The case is the Designio leather case, here it is :
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Lets' check if it really match my wishes ...
1) - the protective "door" for the screen is really hard, yes, it will really protect my screen. Also, the closure of the door is very good : there is a magnet in the leather case, so the door open/close very easily and remains closed in the pocket (attracted by the magnet). So this protective "door" for the screen is a very good point !
2) - you can easily answer the phone while the case is closed. When your phone rings, nothing to do except pushing the green button. All the buttons around the pad still have a good access with this case. New good point !
3) & 4) - to open the keyboard, I need, this time, to remove the whole upper side of the case. I didn't expected something better, I think we just can't do anything better than this. The keyboard opens very easily here again, the leather is very well adjusted, nothing touch the screen while you let it slide to see the keyboard. Once the keyboard is opened, nothing covers it so the keys are very easy to access and keep their original typing comfort. Again, good point !
But all isn't good ... Now the bad points ...
- When you power off your device, if the upper side of the case is opened, while pressing the power button the Kaiser "pop up" from case, it's very dangerous, it could just drop from the case. So you need to take your Kaiser in both hands to power it off, or close the upper side of the case before.
- Some buttons are a little hard to access. The side "OK" button is partially covered (just a little) by the leather. So it's sometimes hard to press it.
- The hole made for the stylus should be in a higher position. So it is also hard to remove the stylus. The good side of this is that it will now be harder to lose the stylus !
- The hole made for the power button is not big enough, you need to press the hole very strong to touch the button, or you can use your nail as the button access will then be easier, but I hate this.
- The size : to have two leather layers on the screen is very protective but takes of course more room in your pocket. I think the Kaiser, in this case, is about 1cm bigger (from the side view). I will let people convert it into inches if they need !
- Last but not least : I have a problem with my case, the first cover of the screen (the one around the screen, not the "door" wich covers the whole screen) is not well made. The button (in french we say "pressure button", I don't know what's the english word for this) wich let it close is not at the right place. So when I close it, it's a little down, covering a little part of my screen (the bottom right). It's not a very big issue because it's only covering a very little part the screen (I'd say about 2mm), but this sucks anyway. If only they had put this button just 1 mm higher, the protective leather part would perfectly fit the screen. These days, I'm focusing on this problem and it makes me angry !
Is this problem specific to my case ? I'm not sure ... When I look at some shots of this case on the web, sometimes I can see the same problem on the commercial shot ! There may be a way to fix this problem, I'm working on that, but I don't want to cut the leather, that's the hard thing to think about.
Conclusion :
This case does its job : to protect your Kaiser. I have no doubt about this, the only thing wich is not covered is the pad and its buttons. Some buttons should have a better access, but they are still accessible.
The finish is very good, it could be a high price product ...
I think it's worth the price, of course depending on where you buy it. I bought mine in a Hong Kong shop on Ebay. The price was about 15€, shipping included. I waited for it for 3 weeks, so be patient !
I just hope for you, if you buy it, that you will not have the issue I had with the "pressure button" wich is not at the exact place it should be... Just one millimeter higher and it would just be perfect !!!
Edit/Delete Message
Hi all, had to post coz this produced such an excellent result for me. I'd had the same trouble many of us have had with screen still working in call leading to random button pressing or holding the phone away from ur ear and people not being able to hear u. I'd used the Proximity recalibrator and it worked at first but I had to keep decreasing the high/low values till it was right down to 3 on low 4 on high and even with this the screen only turned off intermittently. So search on YouTube for a disassembly video and watch it, take ur battery, sd and sim card out, pop out ur GPS antenna take out the 5 screws, take out ur volume button and take care of the volume button PCB as u take the case off. Clean the phone with a fine dry brush all round the sensor, ear speaker and front speaker grill. Before u put it back together gently and carefully bend the GPS contacts out a little to get better contact with the antenna. I put it back together and my proximity sensor is like new! I had to adjust Proximity calibrator to 28 low/ 29 high. Our DHD's are getting old now and I had plenty of crud in mine, bending the GPS contacts out has also produced excellent results with a far quicker fix even indoors. So my DHD will live on for a while longer, hope this helps u too.
Yep i do agree that this is a great fix, having done this myself.
Just make sure before doing anything to your DHD you set yourself up so you know which screws go where after you remove them. Also Lift the Sticker with the IMEI number on carefully if you rip it off forcefully you'll snap the volume ribbon.
It does work it also allows you to clean the speakers too and the camera len too.
Proximity
major fecker said:
Hi all, had to post coz this produced such an excellent result for me. I'd had the same trouble many of us have had with screen still working in call leading to random button pressing or holding the phone away from ur ear and people not being able to hear u. I'd used the Proximity recalibrator and it worked at first but I had to keep decreasing the high/low values till it was right down to 3 on low 4 on high and even with this the screen only turned off intermittently. So search on YouTube for a disassembly video and watch it, take ur battery, sd and sim card out, pop out ur GPS antenna take out the 5 screws, take out ur volume button and take care of the volume button PCB as u take the case off. Clean the phone with a fine dry brush all round the sensor, ear speaker and front speaker grill. Before u put it back together gently and carefully bend the GPS contacts out a little to get better contact with the antenna. I put it back together and my proximity sensor is like new! I had to adjust Proximity calibrator to 28 low/ 29 high. Our DHD's are getting old now and I had plenty of crud in mine, bending the GPS contacts out has also produced excellent results with a far quicker fix even indoors. So my DHD will live on for a while longer, hope this helps u too.
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I agree, i had troubles with prox. sensor too. So cleaning front speaker grill with dry toothbrush helped. Then i blow through with compressor and proximity sensor works like new.
fejkus said:
Then i blow through with compressor and proximity sensor works like new.
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Compressor
you're almost right, but I have blue one ...
I repaired my N4 yesterday with a new screen/digitizer/frame and everything seems to be working fine, except that it's missing the light diffuser in front of the notification light and some kind of white rubber thingy. Do you guys know if I can transfer those from the old frame, I couldn't find any resource about this.
of course you can, just use black 3m double sided tape on perimeter of diffuser to be sure it will hold in place .
OK but I don'tknow how to remove the part from the old frame...
it's simple piece of plastic with adhesive to hold it on digitizer glass, just use something like knife to separate from glass ...
I really don't see how it's done though and I'm afraid I'll damage something... If anyone has a video, that would be useful.
You have mounted your screen assembly in phone front frame already and don't have access to back side of glass ? then I think it's too late to ask about light diffuser ...
But I bought the lcd/digitizer/frame pre-assembled...
just remove your old broken lcd from frame and you will see where that white plastic piece must be glued...
I think I will. I just want to be able to put it on the new one without screwing anything up!
problem is that this white plastic must be applied to back side off digitizer glass before mounting glass in the frame ... Now i think only you can do - try to put that white plastic through the hole in frame where notification led is mounted ...
i also forgot to change the diffuser from the old glass. What i used instead was the white piece from te side of the paper foil (in picture), that i cut to desired shape and sticked it in place with 1mm adhesive tape. It looks great, maybe better than the originalone.
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toycz said:
i also forgot to change the diffuser from the old glass. What i used instead was the white piece from te side of the paper foil (in picture), that i cut to desired shape and sticked it in place with 1mm adhesive tape. It looks great, maybe better than the originalone.
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Click to collapse
Can you tell with more details how you did it? You had to disassembly the screen from the frame? You had to take out and put new adhesive strips on the frame? Thanks in advance.
I used the white strip and cutted small rectangle that fitted. Then i put adhesive tape around and sticked it to place. Thats all
Hey guys
So recently, I removed the back cover of my nexus 4 and did the power button fix, which said to put something like a small piece of paper on top of the lock button, and I did the fix and the button is working perfectly now
But now I have a new problem, after putting back the back cover in, all the sides snap back and taper in like normal, except the bottom side. At the bottom where the microUSB is, there is a line of space where the cover and the chrome meets and it looks horrible. For some reason the bottom isnt snapping in properly, because if i press on top of the cover near the microUSB port then I can feel it snap in, but it will snap out again by itself. Is there some sort of tab or something I need to pull out from the phone so it snaps in properly or something?
Can someone please help me with this? It's really ruining the feel of the phone & making it look old
Here are some photos to give perspective:
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Thank You!
EDIT: When I take the screws out and push the bottom sides together the gap closes significantly, but as soon as I screw back the screws in then the gap becomes as big as the photo again...wtf? I think i'll have to use my N4 without the screws
BassBlaster said:
EDIT: When I take the screws out and push the bottom sides together the gap closes significantly, but as soon as I screw back the screws in then the gap becomes as big as the photo again...wtf? I think i'll have to use my N4 without the screws
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Click to collapse
You didn't crossthread the screws, did you?
The screws themselves screw into 2 metal posts that are on the back cover. It seems to me like maybe your screws aren't hitting the holes in those posts, but instead are missing and pushing it them out. Maybe something loose got in your case and is preventing it from closing down tightly, It could be something foreign, or it could be the antenna wire isn't nested between the battery and the frame, or if you completely disassembled the internals, perhaps something isn't snapped down all the way. But it definitely sounds like the screws are missing the holes in the posts, and instead your screws are going inbetween the top of the posts and the back cover, pushing it out and creating that gap.
Hey,
I am not sure, if I used the correct words in the title
The "Pin" of any headphone I have does not stick in the socket of the smartphone anymore. It is easily disconnected by any motion to the headphone or smartphone.
It all began after I got my phone repaired by a local shop. When I got it back, the backcover was not fully assembled and I could see a little piece of plastic protruding at the bottom, just at the some position, the socket is.
After I removed it and fixed the backcover, I first noticed, that the headphones are not really sticking into the phone anymore.
Now my Question:
Do I need a new Backcover, where the piece possibly came from, or do I need a new headphone connector piece, which is inside?
Perhaps anyone has experienced something similiar and can help me with this.
Pommes9485 said:
Hey,
I am not sure, if I used the correct words in the title
The "Pin" of any headphone I have does not stick in the socket of the smartphone anymore. It is easily disconnected by any motion to the headphone or smartphone.
It all began after I got my phone repaired by a local shop. When I got it back, the backcover was not fully assembled and I could see a little piece of plastic protruding at the bottom, just at the some position, the socket is.
After I removed it and fixed the backcover, I first noticed, that the headphones are not really sticking into the phone anymore.
Now my Question:
Do I need a new Backcover, where the piece possibly came from, or do I need a new headphone connector piece, which is inside?
Perhaps anyone has experienced something similiar and can help me with this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late reply. This phone's headphone jack is very easy to replace as soon as you open the phone there will be a flex cable that runs along the 2 sides of the phone which connect the antenna cables,LCD, and digitizer. Unplug all of those cables carefully. Gently use a flat head screw driver near the vibration motor to lift the metal grill covering the CPU. Then on the left side of the phone there is a little cable that is for the speaker and is glued onto the frame. Remove that using a flat head screw driver and pry slowly underneath it. Now you have to pull the flex cable up towards the bottom of the phone to release some of the glue that is holding it to the battery. *make sure connectors are off and the thing right next to the LCD cable* take the microphone out of its slot. Yhen pry with a flat head screw driver under the headphone jack to release the adhesive that is holding the cable to the frame. Angle the flex cable so you can get the LCD and its module component out and replace the part which is around $15.
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xmayhemreturnsx said:
Sorry for the late reply. This phone's headphone jack is very easy to replace as soon as you open the phone there will be a flex cable that runs along the 2 sides of the phone which connect the antenna cables,LCD, and digitizer. Unplug all of those cables carefully. Gently use a flat head screw driver near the vibration motor to lift the metal grill covering the CPU. Then on the left side of the phone there is a little cable that is for the speaker and is glued onto the frame. Remove that using a flat head screw driver and pry slowly underneath it. Now you have to pull the flex cable up towards the bottom of the phone to release some of the glue that is holding it to the battery. *make sure connectors are off and the thing right next to the LCD cable* take the microphone out of its slot. Yhen pry with a flat head screw driver under the headphone jack to release the adhesive that is holding the cable to the frame. Angle the flex cable so you can get the LCD and its module component out and replace the part which is around $15.View attachment 3429451
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Hey, no problem, I was expecting nothing after my lousy explanation. So you think I need a new headphone jack and not a new backcover?
Thank you for you help!
Pommes9485 said:
Hey, no problem, I was expecting nothing after my lousy explanation. So you think I need a new headphone jack and not a new backcover?
Thank you for you help!
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Actually before you buy anything take the back cover off and test the headphone jack before your replace anything.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
I think you misunderstood me. The jack is working, I can hear music and everything.. But it just doesn't stick in it. And I thought, that maybe the backcover took part in it, so that the connector of the headphones engages.
Pommes9485 said:
I think you misunderstood me. The jack is working, I can hear music and everything.. But it just doesn't stick in it. And I thought, that maybe the backcover took part in it, so that the connector of the headphones engages.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you take a picture or video of what you are seeing. From what I understand the head phone jack is loose and does not hold the cable in.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
I uploaded the pictures I took here:
Pictures
Unfortunetly I only have the camera of my tablet to take photos...
I can not see any damage the back cover could have taken, so I would think, that the missing piece was with the jack itself.
Pommes9485 said:
I uploaded the pictures I took here:
Pictures
Unfortunetly I only have the camera of my tablet to take photos...
I can not see any damage the back cover could have taken, so I would think, that the missing piece was with the jack itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you still have the same issue with the back cover off then you will need to replace the headphone jack module.
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