Database Users

Hardware for cam flash idea

Thing's you will need;
drill and drill bit
4 pieces of electrical wire
"super bright" "super thin" LED (ebay £1-£5)
Small amount of sticky back plastic
Small amount of Electrical tape
Pliers
How to;
Firstly remove your back cover off the x8.
measure up the LED. and get a drill bit to match the size,
Drill approximatly 5-15mm under the camera lense hole and secure LED here. (it doesn't have to be here it could be at the other side of the Xperia badge but just dont put it too close to camera lense as it will light up your pictures too much)
take X2 piece's of wire connect them to LED and flow them across the inside of your phone to the connection pads where the camera button is operated.
Secure wireing with sticky back plastic and use electrical tape to cover any "open" wireing.
take another X2 pieces and connect to battery and the physical camera button
Now when the Camera button is pressed down the 4 pieces of wire will meet and thus making the "superbright LED" light up your scenery perfectly.
This is just a how to. a make shift light for our X8. in theory it work's
if you try this comment and let me know how your's has come along
Thank's and i hope i get some of you modding hardware not only the soft part

I'm sure this will work, but i don't have required materials.

Brilliant Idea!
Will purchase the materials and post pictures and a tutorial step by step =]

hello frds if we make this type camera light accessories
fit in3mm audio jek or in charger port
this camera light accessories work with k750 and etc
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monu09 said:
hello frds if we make this type camera light accessories
fit in3mm audio jek or in charger port
this camera light accessories work with k750 and etc
View attachment 709947
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember those. I only came up with the idea to put our own lighting into the phone's as i know there is no such item's available. and without it being built in i missed the quality of pic's in the dark so thought about making my own LED flash for the x8's camera, whilst this thought came to mind i thought i would give it to all who may be interested !
Thank's

Excellent idea, it remembers me something like this:

Or you can just take the x10 cam board out and replace it whit our x8 as it fits and works just Google it how to fix the x8 the cam has it own motherboard in it and so dose the x10 and that fit and work fine just get a bust x10 from eBay for penny's I did
PS I though every 1 done this if u do do this you need all drivers for the x10 cam that the only down side
post if I can find that web address again ill post it up for yous
super.sense on x8

BIG JD said:
Or you can just take the x10 cam board out and replace it whit our x8 as it fits and works just Google it how to fix the x8 the cam has it own motherboard in it and so dose the x10 and that fit and work fine just get a bust x10 from eBay for penny's I did
PS I though every 1 done this if u do do this you need all drivers for the x10 cam that the only down side
post if I can find that web address again ill post it up for yous
super.sense on x8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
False.. This is complete BS, why are you giving false information? Lol.. You must tell me where you buy that weed dude xD
The x8 camera connects tru a socket, the x10 connects tru a flex cable.. Also, the x10 is way bigger due the autofocus mechanism.
But please, post your source
Edit: OP, depending on the led you buy, you might also need a resistor.. Anyway, i think it's better to carry a mini torch light than to cut holes in the phone but thats just me.. If i want to take a good photo i use a proper camera. Also, you need basic soldering skills to "connect" the wire to the button. And not wanting to kill your dream please remind that the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed and you don't even know the voltage it passes tru there. By connecting it to the battery you will be exposing the circuit to 3.7 volts.. Not a very nice idea but HEYYY i don't want to judge any one, please go ahead and post feedback
Sent from my E15i using XDA App

Nikkopt said:
False.. This is complete BS, why are you giving false information? Lol.. You must tell me where you buy that weed dude xD
The x8 camera connects tru a socket, the x10 connects tru a flex cable.. Also, the x10 is way bigger due the autofocus mechanism.
But please, post your source
Edit: OP, depending on the led you buy, you might also need a resistor.. Anyway, i think it's better to carry a mini torch light than to cut holes in the phone but thats just me.. If i want to take a good photo i use a proper camera. Also, you need basic soldering skills to "connect" the wire to the button. And not wanting to kill your dream please remind that the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed and you don't even know the voltage it passes tru there. By connecting it to the battery you will be exposing the circuit to 3.7 volts.. Not a very nice idea but HEYYY i don't want to judge any one, please go ahead and post feedback Sent from my E15i using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well yea that's all true. i wouldn't use a solder iron though just "wrap" the wires round where they need to be. and the whole bit about "" the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed"" are you onabout the camera button? if so no it doesn't it just presses down the rubber button bit that activate's the camera

Raazax8 said:
and the whole bit about "" the button serves to close a circuit that gives a signal to the OS that it was pressed"" are you onabout the camera button? if so no it doesn't it just presses down the rubber button bit that activate's the camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.. and how do you think it activates it wise guy? Magically? Also, rubber button? Are you sure you are on the right forum? This is not vintage-phones.com (if it exists).. Phones don't use rubber to make contact anymore, for ages now, and the ones that still have a rubber keypad use metal clickies behind them
I'm not bashing on you, you just don't seem to know what you are talking about and still insist that you are right..

-----------------

Nikkopt said:
Lol.. and how do you think it activates it wise guy? Magically? Also, rubber button? Are you sure you are on the right forum? This is not vintage-phones.com (if it exists).. Phones don't use rubber to make contact anymore, for ages now, and the ones that still have a rubber keypad use metal clickies behind them
I'm not bashing on you, you just don't seem to know what you are talking about and still insist that you are right..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i got stupidity shoe's on when typing that this morning.
i read it back to myself and thought i just said what they said but in layman's terms.
also i think you got the wrong end of the stick as i wouldn't put the wire "IN" the button's. just under the case where the camera button is "chrome button on side of phone" i would simply "fix 2 wires here" and on the side where the "chrome button" connects to the plastic that is onto of the "clickie" i would place 2 wires here. thus making a connection without touching any metal part of the phone itself
That is all !

Raazax8 said:
This is just a how to. a make shift light for our X8. in theory it work's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
^ See what i originally put ^
In theory it work's
I have not tried it and i won't attempt too either. just an idea i had and wanted to share !

Raazax8 said:
i would simply "fix 2 wires here" and on the side where the "chrome button" connects to the plastic that is onto of the "clickie" i would place 2 wires here. thus making a connection without touching any metal part of the phone itself
That is all !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned the connection pads in the first post so i immediately thought that you would use the clickie button itself, my apologies here.
Although this seems to work in theory, it wouldn't actually because when the cover is in place, the chromed plastic button that pushes the real one is already touching it, you can confirm this by pushing it softly and see that there is no travel space between them at all, it's always touching it, just not pressing this doesn't let you have space to put the wires to begin with

Nikkopt said:
You mentioned the connection pads in the first post so i immediately thought that you would use the clickie button itself, my apologies here.
Although this seems to work in theory, it wouldn't actually because when the cover is in place, the chromed plastic button that pushes the real one is already touching it, you can confirm this by pushing it softly and see that there is no travel space between them at all, it's always touching it, just not pressing this doesn't let you have space to put the wires to begin with
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.No problem iv got a solution LOL
It begins with a drill and a button.
Yes a separate button just for the flash do as i described but instead of under the camera button make your own flash button just above or below the camera button. this also double's your phone up as a torch aswell. GREAT
sorry but getting desperate for answer's in making this one work. lol
I repeat it's just a theory . i concede that it's a flawed theory

Lol.. well yes, that would work if you really managed to get all the wiring and the LED inside the casing. But lets be real, a LED doesn't really give much light to make a difference at all.
I just used a torch light just like this one: http://www.acsmarketing.biz/pic/hardwarebig/FR-7304 9 led torchlight big.jpg
It has 9, super bright.. and the pic still sucks, in fact they are almost identical .
The problem is that they give you a constant amount of light, and flash LEDs give you one or two bursts of much more intense light. It has to be in bursts because it makes them very hot, just like any camera flash..
Simple LEDs do help with close up pics, like scanning a bar-code on a paper for instance, BUT since our camera doesn't even have auto-focus, close up pictures are always blurry no matter the light

[HOWTO] [DIY] Make your voice sound more clear

DISCLAIMER: AS USUAL, THIS HOWTO IS PROVIDED "AS IS", I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE TO ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE AS A RESULT OF AN ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE.
There are numerous thread about the poor in-call sound quality of the Atrix. This thread addresses the problem where your voice sound muffled, where the people you are talking to have problems hearing you clearly.
The problem on my Atrix was dust build-up around the microphone. There is a small compartment below the microphone hole. Then there is a fine mesh protector located in a rubber sealing, protecting the actual microphone on the motherboard. The dust had gotten in through the microphone hole and accumulated in the small compartment.
Removing the dust and cleaning the fine protecting mesh made my microphone able to produce significantly more clear sound, especially in the higher frequencies ("s-" and "sch-" sounds). It was not a miracle cure producing crisp crystal-clear sound, but I'd say the sound quality went from "sub-adequate" and "annoyingly poor" too "perfectly acceptable, still not comparable to the best". Your result all depends on how much dust your Atrix has managed to accumulate over time.
What you DO NOT need:
* Use of force (unless specified in this guide)
* Use of sharp metal objects (unless specified in this guide)
* Impatience
What you DO need:
* Delicate fingers
* Patience
* Phone repair experience or general aptitude. If you are patient, careful and steady on your hand then you can do this, just take your time and read and think carefully before you act.
* ifixit teardown guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
* Tools listed in guide above: Torx T5 tool, Plastic prying tools (AGAIN, avoid using metal)
General advice:
* read this guide in its entirety before going to work on your phone
* use common sense, I'm just a human writing this guide from the top of my head, trying to help people. This guide might not be 100% perfect, YOU (NOT ME) ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE
* Phones are small and delicate, using force will likely break something.
* Before removing any "layer" (plastic cover, motherboard etc), lift slowly, softly, and MAKE SURE you won't break any cables or anything.
* Layers are often meant to be lifted in a specific way or folded in a specific direction. See how the cables go and bend, figure it out.
What to do:
1. Follow the ifixit guide all the way to (and including) step 7. Make sure to unhook the antenna cable from the chassis and to lift the connector straight up when disconnecting.
2. The microphone is on the bottom of the motherboard. The small compartment and mesh that needs cleaning is in the middle of the semi-transparent rubber sealing seen in the bottom of the picture of step 7.
3. CRITICAL AND HARD STEP! To get to the dusty compartment I removed the motherboard. (This might not be necessary, it might be possible to just fold the motherboard to the side with the connectors for the flat cables, thus not having to disconnect these. Try it out if you like.) It's a bit tricky getting the motherboard to get free. You need to use a bit of force to get the HDMI and USB connectors out of their sockets in the chassis, I pressed the motherboard away from the sockets using no more force than necessary. Make sure you get no "recoil" when they pop out! On the other side of the motherboard are the connectors for the flat cables. The flat cables and connectors are fragile, take care not to damage them. Two are just to pop out, one you need to lift the black bar/lever on the far edge to get the ZIF (zero insertion force) flat cable out. Connecting these cables again will be tricky, so if you can get to the compartment without disconnecting, that would save some time but it will be more difficult to clean with the motherboard hanging on too...
4. (See attached picture.) Lift the rubber sealing. Clean out any dust in the small compartment inside the front microphone hole. Clean the protective mesh and blow through it making sure it's not clogged. I used a slightly moist cotton stick for the cleaning, use no solvents.
5. Put everything back!
Hope this helps!
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HTC Aria Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

If you have issue with your touchscreen digitizer and LCD screen, we will take you through the steps on how to disassemble your HTC Aria phone safely and easily so you can install replacement parts and repair your phone. This will help you replace a damaged or cracked glass touch screen digitizer, or a broken LCD screen as well as other damaged parts.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Aria part(s):
HTC Aria Glass Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Tri Wing Screwdriver
Steps:
First remove the 4 tri wing screws using tri wing tools as shown at figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Then remove the back cover, the top section of the phone including the battery, the sim card and the memory card.
Next, lift off the the top section which contains the power button.
Then use the safe pry tool, release the clips and remove the button piece of the phone.
Next, release the pop ribbon connector of the LCD screen as shown at figure 2.
Figure 2​
Then use safe pry tool to separate the LCD screen and the glass screen away from the phone. Gently pry and lift off as there is still a connector at the top of the screen.
Remove the 2 screws using Small Phillips screw driver. Then use safe pry tool to pop off the earpiece.
Figure 3​
Gently lift off the metal cover to release the screen digitizer cable. Once the ribbon cable is disconnected, you can now totally separate the screen from the phone.
Figure 4​
To separate the LCD screen, you will need to use your hot air gun or hair dryer to heat up the glue that holds the glass in place, then you can gently pry it off using your open safe pry tool.
Now you will be able to replace any parts on your HTC Aria. Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.

Where can I get an adhesive tape for the digitizer, mine has lost it's stickiness and there a gap is starteing to appear between the digitizer and the screen. I've found only strange sites that sell this, without an option to pay in paypal.
I'm also looking for the adhesive tape that it is on the bottom part of the phone. as you can see there are two stripes on both sides of the trackball:

CaptainMaki said:
Where can I get an adhesive tape for the digitizer, mine has lost it's stickiness and there a gap is starteing to appear between the digitizer and the screen. I've found only strange sites that sell this, without an option to pay in paypal.
I'm also looking for the adhesive tape that it is on the bottom part of the phone. as you can see there are two stripes on both sides of the trackball:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We actually have the adhesive strips on our site here - Adhesive Strips
It's not a strange site and PayPal is an option
This will fix both you issues.

Paul, thx for the tip.
Actually I prefer no to cut the stripes myself, since cutting them to 2mm stripes is not easily done.
I wish you had the digitizer adhesive "square" pre made, like there are for other devices.
I will just order 2mm tape for the digitizer and 4mm tape for the bottom part.
btw, any useful tip on how to peel the paper from the tape after you adhere the tape on the one side to the phone? would be very helpful.
PS.
your site and videos are great!

CaptainMaki said:
Paul, thx for the tip.
Actually I prefer no to cut the stripes myself, since cutting them to 2mm stripes is not easily done.
I wish you had the digitizer adhesive "square" pre made, like there are for other devices.
I will just order 2mm tape for the digitizer and 4mm tape for the bottom part.
btw, any useful tip on how to peel the paper from the tape after you adhere the tape on the one side to the phone? would be very helpful.
PS.
your site and videos are great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strips are very easy and simple to cut.
You would actually need to cut any strips as you need to avoid blocking the sensor hole etc.
Just place the strips in place. Once ready just remove the backing then install. We actually have an video showing the adhesive process on YouTube if you want to check it out.

No Video
Thanks for the guide. I successfully replaced the digitizer and was able to start up the phone but no video from the LCD screen. It was working previously. When it starts up the screen lights a little but is blank dark screen, not white. Everything else works including the digitizer touch screen.
I checked the LCD connector and digitizer connector several times but still same problem. Is it possible that the LCD got damaged during disassembly?

all. We actually have an video showing the adhesive process on YouTube if you want to check it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where can I find it?

weniejoy said:
Thanks for the guide. I successfully replaced the digitizer and was able to start up the phone but no video from the LCD screen. It was working previously. When it starts up the screen lights a little but is blank dark screen, not white. Everything else works including the digitizer touch screen.
I checked the LCD connector and digitizer connector several times but still same problem. Is it possible that the LCD got damaged during disassembly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first thought would be to check the connector for the LCD and make sure it is fully inserted and is secure making a full connection.
If its connected fully and still not functioning and the phone is powering normally then you may of damaged it and will need a replacement however it's most likely a connection problem.

CaptainMaki said:
where can I find it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find our video guide here - HTC Aria Screen Replacement Repair Guide

Stickied for the time being

Thanks! This couldn't come at a better time. I dropped my phone yesterday and the screen shattered. I'm not due for an upgrade for another few months so looks like I'll be repairing it myself
Thanks again!

Glad we could help!
Make sure to remember to give us a "thanks" for our thanks meter!

I ordered a replacement digitizer from RepairsUniverse. The video helped a lot for disassembly, and I was grateful that the "tape strips" I ordered ended up being about 8 square inches of tape!
My tips:
After plugging the digitizer connector back in, replace the two tiny screws and attach the screen to the phone (not to the digitizer). This will make it easier to clean off and attach new double-sided tape to the screen. If you leave the white stuff on the tape, you can fold the digitizer back to its normal place and power up the phone to make sure everything works. Then peel off the white stuff and attach the digitizer permanently.
The new digitizer didn't come with the white plastic "diffuser" taped to the back, underneath the four menu buttons (Back, Home, etc..) I didn't realize that 'til I put it back together. The menu buttons work fine, but without the diffuser and the black tape below it, the menu area looks "cheap" when it's lit up. It's not a big deal to me.
For me, putting the earpiece back in was the most time-consuming part. It wanted to keep popping back out on its own. I ended up using a tiny bit of double-sided tape between the earpiece and the screen, which held it in place.
Everything seems to work perfectly, except for the ambient light sensor. I cut plenty of clearance for it and the proximity sensor beside it, but I somehow lost the auto-brightness feature. The proximity sensor works fine. Maybe some light from the screen is leaking in and saturating the sensor.
It's nice not having an AT&T logo on the phone any more.

MondoMor said:
I ordered a replacement digitizer from RepairsUniverse. The video helped a lot for disassembly, and I was grateful that the "tape strips" I ordered ended up being about 8 square inches of tape!
My tips:
After plugging the digitizer connector back in, replace the two tiny screws and attach the screen to the phone (not to the digitizer). This will make it easier to clean off and attach new double-sided tape to the screen. If you leave the white stuff on the tape, you can fold the digitizer back to its normal place and power up the phone to make sure everything works. Then peel off the white stuff and attach the digitizer permanently.
The new digitizer didn't come with the white plastic "diffuser" taped to the back, underneath the four menu buttons (Back, Home, etc..) I didn't realize that 'til I put it back together. The menu buttons work fine, but without the diffuser and the black tape below it, the menu area looks "cheap" when it's lit up. It's not a big deal to me.
For me, putting the earpiece back in was the most time-consuming part. It wanted to keep popping back out on its own. I ended up using a tiny bit of double-sided tape between the earpiece and the screen, which held it in place.
Everything seems to work perfectly, except for the ambient light sensor. I cut plenty of clearance for it and the proximity sensor beside it, but I somehow lost the auto-brightness feature. The proximity sensor works fine. Maybe some light from the screen is leaking in and saturating the sensor.
It's nice not having an AT&T logo on the phone any more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you were able to repair your phone successfully.
You can transfer the white diffuser over to the new screen and this will sort out the light issue.

Thanks for this I cracked my screen along time ago.

Thanks for this post! Helped me fix my buddy's phone when he dropped it and wasn't up for an upgrade yet!

gibby_ said:
Thanks for this post! Helped me fix my buddy's phone when he dropped it and wasn't up for an upgrade yet!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear! We also have a downloadable version of this repair guide as well as video guide for the Aria.

Thanks for this post! I'll fix my phone!

Machaon studio said:
Thanks for this post! I'll fix my phone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're very Welcome! Good Luck with your repair and don't forget to give "Thanks" to this post!
Cheers!

thank you for sharing. has video so it could be more detailed, I find the majority of screen htc glued so sure, so the replacement and repair is very difficult

Perma Fix Acer Iconia A500 Power Button - Guide

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SHORT AND SIMPLE:
Basically short the connection of d21 to ground. This is how the button works, one ground point and one hot point. The button just touches these two together.
Long and detailed:
So... about a year ago, I got my first A500. Broken. Figured out power button was broke. Figured out how to rewire it, but ended up shorting the motherboard out RIGHT AFTER I GOT IT TO TURN ON....
Today, bought another one on ebay, broken. Has been sent in for power button repair previously.... Everything looked fine.... started researching... finally just dived in and removed the hotglue that was holding the power button. Ah HAH! Solder joints were broken, but button still "clicked".
So... after 6 hours trying to solder the button back on, I went another route. I call it perma fix, because the power button no longer depends on the soldered connection for structural integrity. Also, it should still allow minor shifting without breaking the connection.
View attachment 1753275
Step 1:
Remove power button (probably already fell off on yours)
Step 2: De-solder the the original solder pads, the power button used to connect to. Make sure the two holes on the left and right of the three pads are wide open.
Step 3: Get two pieces of stranded wire, remove enough strands until each "wire" can fit into the two holes. (twist strands for extra strength)
Step 4: Solder the tip of one strand to one outside pin of the power button, solder tip of other strand to other outside pin.
Step 5: Turn power button upside down, solder each strand along the side of the button pointing down.
(You should now have a power button with two strands of wire physically soldered to the power button metal frame and the far left and far right pins)
Step 6: Solder a single TINY strand of wire to the middle pin of power button.
Step 7: Push the two supporting strands through the two holes the metal case USED to go into. Solder them.
Step 7B: Now that the power button is upside down, and has, on each side, a strand of wire soldered to the metal frame, and is soldered to the board like in step 7.
All three pins of the power button should now be up in the air, instead of touching the PCB. Solder pins 1 & 3 to the metal frame/strands. THIS IS YOUR GROUND.
So pins 1 and 3, attach to metal frame, which attaches to wire strands, which attach to PCB where the metal feet of the power button metal cover used to go.
Step 8: Solder the TINY strand of wire, to the bottom left of D21. (If your looking at the board, the volumes buttons are up, power and headphone jack to the left, and sd card slot to the right, all facing you on the same side of the board the power button mounts to)
(Please note, in this picture, the power button has not yet been attached to the board permanently, the button is supposed to be flush with the board, not raised up as in this pic.)
Step 9: adjustment of power button height. My tablet wouldn't "click" when pressing the power button on the case, so adjustments were needed.
Either:
A:
Get something no thicker than a dime, that doesn't conduct electricity, and put between power button and old solder points
B: Use hot-glue, and push power button down, but leave a dimes thickness of hot-glue between board and power button
Step 10:
suspend wire strand between headphone jack and power button, and route through this area, leading to bottom left pin of D21.)
Step 11: use hot glue, and just suspend the strand close to the board, but keep enough hotglue between it and the board, so it doesn't short, but also, low enough so you can still fit the cover back on
(BTW: I have tested this, it does work. I traced the points. Far left and right pins go to ground, and center pin, routes to bottom left pin of D21)

Update:
Hasn't given me a problem yet, used ~12 hours a day. Power button is used alot, to turn of the screen, and to reboot because custom rom still leaks.
Stay away from silicone, moves too much, hot glue is much better, alot stiffer!

SaschaElble said:
Hasn't given me a problem yet, used ~12 hours a day. Power button is used alot, to turn of the screen, and to reboot because custom rom still leaks.
Stay away from silicone, moves too much, hot glue is much better, alot stiffer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand you used the strands to hold the power to the PCB by the sides of it (metal frame with legs going into the holes to the side), but when you said the left and right pins sticking out from the rear (along with the center one connected to D21) were GND, how did you keep them grounded?
On the attached thumbnail, you can see the metal frame is soldered to the PCB at green points and violet points; the yellow point being soldered to the left leg of D21. But what do I do with the red legs?
On my PCB, the button clips onto the metal frame latches that hold it in place. Under the microscope, it looks like it would take little force to pull those legs off the PCB copper spots (these do not go through the board as the frame legs do). So I can (1) unclip the button; (2) pry the rear legs off with an Exacto blade tip; (3) solder D21; (4) ground the left and right legs, pour some hot glue on, and be done with it! Am I doing it right?

I've updated step 7 and added, step 7B for clarity. Thank you graphdarnell for pointing it out.
EVERY part will desolder. The metel case of the power button IS GROUND. Just solder pins 1 & 3 to the metal case. Since the power button is upside down this gives you room to put the strands on the side into the holes in the pcb, where the feet of the metal case used to go.
graphdarnell said:
I understand you used the strands to hold the power to the PCB by the sides of it (metal frame with legs going into the holes to the side), but when you said the left and right pins sticking out from the rear (along with the center one connected to D21) were GND, how did you keep them grounded?
On the attached thumbnail, you can see the metal frame is soldered to the PCB at green points and violet points; the yellow point being soldered to the left leg of D21. But what do I do with the red legs?
On my PCB, the button clips onto the metal frame latches that hold it in place. Under the microscope, it looks like it would take little force to pull those legs off the PCB copper spots (these do not go through the board as the frame legs do). So I can (1) unclip the button; (2) pry the rear legs off with an Exacto blade tip; (3) solder D21; (4) ground the left and right legs, pour some hot glue on, and be done with it! Am I doing it right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Update
This powerbutton fix STILL WORKS to this day.

SaschaElble said:
This powerbutton fix STILL WORKS to this day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are a genius, I tried gluing it back and no luck but then I decided to take the jump and bought a 48W soldering station for 16€ and a really small head for 3,95€. They did a great job for noob like me who has only soldered one layer chips with big contacts. It took two hours to clean the previous attempt's mess and do the soldering. When I was done I only hooked up the battery, display-cable etc. necessary stuff and gave it a quick try.. IT WORKED! I only could solder the right ground instead of both left and right but I didn't let it bother me.
First thing tomorrow, I will go to local hardware store and buy some hot glue and then I try to assemble it.
My model is A501 so there is the PCI-E card for the 3g connectivity but it doesn't change anything in means of repairing the button.
You saved me the cost of new motherboard with this thread so I'm really thankful.

thx
hi and thx !
could you tell me if the ground-1&3pins-wires are soldered to the holes on the back of PCB?
thx !!

Excellent guide thank you. For those of you who dont have a switch here is what I did. I used a radio shack p/n 275-0003 switch. It fits perfect inside the front housing where the power button should go. I then wired 2 of the poles to the GRD points & the power circuit toggle to D21 as described above.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dSkhuUmJNTVNjSG8/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dckloNlR0ZzVOWXc/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dVUE4eTk3OUYxUmM/edit?usp=sharing

thx for the great idea! can you take a picture of the soldered GND spots on pcb please?

my power button broke yesterday! about a month after the 2 year coscto warranty ended.
GRRRR - Will try the Radio shack Fix

FORFUN83 said:
thx for the great idea! can you take a picture of the soldered GND spots on pcb please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late reply, I already have my A500 together but its the outer two of the 3 contacts to the left of the LED the orig switch attaches to. Here is a pic from another forum
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n198/josbek/Puters/Old-motherboard-down-close_zpsad336662.jpg

Ronbo85 said:
Sorry for the late reply, I already have my A500 together but its the outer two of the 3 contacts to the left of the LED the orig switch attaches to. Here is a pic from another forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thx! but what about the 4 pins of the switch?(ABCD on my private msg) which pin are soldered to the GND spot please?

FORFUN83 said:
thx! but what about the 4 pins of the switch?(ABCD on my private msg) which pin are soldered to the GND spot please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check you PM

So let me get this right. You only need to solder 2 wires into the 2 holes?
I temporarily fixed this issue by carefully gluing the power button with care to avoid getting it over the contacts I saw on the board and the device.
Looks like that didn't work for more than a few months.
So now I'm going to try using electrically conductive adhesive on top of it on the specific areas pointed out.
Wish me luck

agent0105 said:
You are a genius, I tried gluing it back and no luck but then I decided to take the jump and bought a 48W soldering station for 16€ and a really small head for 3,95€. They did a great job for noob like me who has only soldered one layer chips with big contacts. It took two hours to clean the previous attempt's mess and do the soldering. When I was done I only hooked up the battery, display-cable etc. necessary stuff and gave it a quick try.. IT WORKED! I only could solder the right ground instead of both left and right but I didn't let it bother me.
First thing tomorrow, I will go to local hardware store and buy some hot glue and then I try to assemble it.
My model is A501 so there is the PCI-E card for the 3g connectivity but it doesn't change anything in means of repairing the button.
You saved me the cost of new motherboard with this thread so I'm really thankful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, I'm impressed, and thankful to know my information helped someone else. I had someone message me, and actually paid me a visit in person to fix his iconia.
Oh and p.s my iconia is STILL running. 100% PermaFix

So I got the 275-003 switch from radio shack which has 4 poles so 2 poles on the same side I used as ground and one from the other side to D21, when I plug the battery in, the screen turns on but the button does nothing. Did I miss something?

k00lguy105 said:
So I got the 275-003 switch from radio shack which has 4 poles so 2 poles on the same side I used as ground and one from the other side to D21, when I plug the battery in, the screen turns on but the button does nothing. Did I miss something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2 poles from the same side on the 275-003 tactile switch are bridged only when the button is pressed. So if you solder those 2 together, then your closing the circuit, which is why the tablet turns on when you plug in the battery. You have to use 1 pole of the same side for ground, and the other for your power. I tested this with a multimeter just to make sure.
Edit: I actually broke the solder point mentioned as the bottom left D21 point. From the 3 poles from the original tactile switch, the 2 outside poles are connected on the switch and the middle pole closes the circuit when the button is pressed. I'm using one of the outside points and the middle one to turn on the tablet via the Radio Shack 275-003 tactile switch.

chokey154 said:
The 2 poles from the same side on the 275-003 tactile switch are bridged only when the button is pressed. So if you solder those 2 together, then your closing the circuit, which is why the tablet turns on when you plug in the battery. You have to use 1 pole of the same side for ground, and the other for your power. I tested this with a multimeter just to make sure.
Edit: I actually broke the solder point mentioned as the bottom left D21 point. From the 3 poles from the original tactile switch, the 2 outside poles are connected on the switch and the middle pole closes the circuit when the button is pressed. I'm using one of the outside points and the middle one to turn on the tablet via the Radio Shack 275-003 tactile switch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The left D21 point seemed to do nothing, but I soldered a wire to the center point and only on the right and put them both on the same side on the switch and it worked! Thanks!
This was my first time soldering ever, did some tests on an old dying HDD PCB first then did the switch, was much easier then I thought, except I don't have very steady hands but I look forward to doing more soldering projects.

Hi, I been struggling with this power button issue for a couple of weeks now, trying to find a place that does this fix to no luck yet (aside from an ebay seller that does it for 50dlls plus shipping that ends up being about 85dlls) so I'm thinking about doing it myself, the thing is that I'm not well versed with soldering mobos so I want to know what kind of soldering iron should I use for this and any other general tips you may have for this project to be successful

Watch plenty of YouTube videos on soldering. Get a fine tip for the soldering iron. Use flux core solder. Get a hot glue gun or use silicone. You can reuse the original button if havnt lost it. Look at the pics. Read the entire thread, some good tips and clarifications to be found. Again, nice to see this thread still being useful! Oh and practice soldering on a broken piece of electronics, like k00lguy105 did!

The quest for a perfect HD2

Well actually I just want my HD2 back the way it was, recently it's been giving me issues with the screen. I couldn't unlock it, and it would periodically work when I put immense pressure on the Call End button, however, after about 2 months of doing so, it stopped working completely. Normally it would work after 10-20 tries of unlocking it, but i tried for days, I tried every possible thing, and I really didn't want to resort to replacing the digitizer. Being 13 and all, it wasn't going to be easy, but I knew if my parents found out I'd be dead meat (I wouldn't blame them for going ballistic, I have a weird tendency to break things).
So I'm going to attempt a screen replacement, I've already opened it up (having an eBay account with money in it is is really helpful in my situation) and it isn't looking good... I've already snapped the ribbon cable for the lower button panel... luckily I ordered one off of eBay just in case it was on its last legs anyway. I've bought the following things.
-HTC HD2 Digitizer + Screen + All tools (Socket Digitizer) - £24.55
-T4, T5, T6, T7, and T8 Screwdriver set - £1.55
-HTC HD2 Lower button panel - £2.51
-HTC HD2 Anti-Glare Screen Protectors 5x - £1.19
-*MAYBE* HTC HD2 Rear battery cover £2.00
At first I was going to replace the digitizer until I saw all the risks, like damaging the screen itself and all that, and having to apply adhesive and using low level heat etc. So I just bought the whole assembly. Before I took it apart, I checked if I had a Socket Digitizer or a Solder Digitizer... yep, without taking it apart. I did this by holding the Volume Down Button and the Red Power Button, and I held this until I saw the 3 colour screen. On the 4th line down, this should be written 0x50 or 0x30, if it is 0x50, then you have a Socket Digitizer, if it's 0x30. It is the solder type. As you can see, my Digitizer is socket type, but this didn't really matter as I am going to replace the screen as well. I found the information about 3 coloured screen from somewhere from XDA, I can't quite remember where though.
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All of those things should be coming soon (except for the button pad, it was from china) so hopefully, I will have a perfect HD2 soon, however, for the moment, I am stuck with a T-Mobile Vairy Touch 2... Oh and can someone give me suggestions for the smoothest JB ROM for the HD2?
I just hope my HD2 doesn't die in the process...
Thanks for reading, I'll update as I go along

Worth noting the bootloader screen doesn't show the digitizer version always correctly when HSPL is installed, not that matters as you have a complete assembly anyway.
Only tips I will give is take a lot of care & keep all screws etc safe so not lost when re-assembly time comes. Take care when handling device not to damage snap off the spring fingers that contact against the aerials as they easily bent & break off when repositioning if not careful.
If you have lifted the entire ribbon board with volume key be very careful not to damage it or loose the small push caps on face of volume key & refit volume key properly.
When your parts turn up you can test function prior to assembly by plugging screen assembly into mainboard & attaching new button ribbon to mainboard, then hold the battery onto the mainboard contacts & press the power button & see screen & digitizer is working ok.
Good adhesive tape is needed to mount & hold the lcd to centre chassis & adding bit more tape than standard in places such as corners is not a bad thing.
Rest comes down to taking care & a bit of luck. Hope works out for you .

I can confirm that the bootloader was correct as my digitizer is the socket type. Oh and, when I took everything apart to check it actually was a socket type, the volume keys fell off, I put everything back together (without the motherboard and stuff) I put the volume keys back and It didn't feel right. I couldn't press the Increase Volume Button, however when I screwed it in place it felt better -but still wobbly and it feels like it's going to fall of with a little bit of pressure.
Can I check the condition of the screen and digitizer without the lower button panel. The Screen + Digitizer should come on Monday, but since the button panel was from china, it will take 2-3 weeks. And If I put extra adhesive will the rear frame fit?
Thanks for the tips

Be careful with those volume keys as the volume board is easily damaged, you will have to review that area carefully when doing final assembly.
If you have not fully stripped it yet then do not remove the flex board completely or all the cables running down by the volume key.
You can just loosen the flex ribbon across the bottom where plugs to mainboard & about 2cm+ up. With button board disconnected along with other cables the board will lift enough to access the lcd connector on the back. Use a toothpick to work the locking bar up off the lcd connector then lcd ribbon can be worked out using a tool or toothpick.
Saves a lot of work & all the tape on volume board remains factory spec with small strips wrapped round the push caps & build label is mainly untouched.
All you are doing with extra adhesive strip is putting it in a few areas that originally did not have strip laid on it & would look beneficial to aid support as none of the tapes have the same bond strength as original. Don't build up more than one layer of tape or thickness will make digi too high from housing edge.
I personally use PU40 adhesive and add 5 rice grain spots down sides & in corners & make gaps in tape for it as really holds the assembly nicely like original build were as tapes tend to come loose & lift in corners or feel spongy.
I would wait till button board turns up as very easy to test with that & other options just result in a lot of hassle & possible mishaps.
Do take care when removing & inserting the lcd ribbon as the mainboard socket is easily damaged then you will have lcd display issues or no touch & probably no chance of rectifying it. Sometimes those chinese orders can be surprisingly quick ...

Thanks for the extremely helpful information!
I will take care in replacing the Digitizer, I don't know what type of adhesive to buy, do I need adhesive strips; would something like this work?
Thanks for all the info, and I really do hope it's quick...
I really don't want my parents to find out
EDIT:
Would this tape be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Frame-Repair-Sticker-LCD-Tape-for-HTC-HD2-T8585-Adhesive-/130999079729?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneFascias_JN&hash=item1e80275331

Yes the LCDFIX frame tape would do & has the advantage of having the pre shaped black foam adhesive pads that seal & bond the top & bottom edges of digitizer.
The actual tape they supply is not that high tack as I have used it before but ok & if used with a little pu40 silicone adhesive the final build is much better long term ...
Don't think your parents should be complaining seems you are saving money & being environmentally active in repairing rather than scrapping.
Digitizer is common issue on the HD2 so probably not your bad on this occasion
Hope works out well & another HD2 is revived ...

I will look into that PU40 Silicone Adhesive as I don't want to be constantly opening and closing my HD2 so I do want it to be long term.
I think if they find out they will think I'm going to break it. I've already broken the button board ribbon cable, but as I said before I already bought one. Yeah, I noticed the amount of people with the same issue was a lot. But I have only had this phone for like 5 months (got it on eBay for £60), thought it was a good deal... 5 months down I need to replace the screen + digitizer. Why did HTC make an amazing phone with such a common fault
Thanks, I hope I don't kill my precious HD2

Well they can last about 2 to 3 years before failure which not too bad. Digitizer of that screen size & minimal bezel bonding was quite unique when HD2 came out & bezel size is only just being beaten now.
Ribbons tend to get brittle with age due to heat cycles they endure from the device & the one on digitizer also flexes a little when device twisted about in your pocket or right hand side keys used hard which all helps the failure.
As you found out with button board tail they are easily torn ... Would not beat yourself up over that as most people do a lot worse when opening an HD2.
If you use pu40 or similar adhesive sealant only very little spots are required, really does hold the corners in nicely & gives a more firm untouched feeling finish to the build.
Do check everything & plan the reassembly before actually doing it so nothing missed or made awkward, also you want device assembled before sealant fully dry so can lay HD2 on its back with a thick card spacer cut slightly smaller than the digitizer then add a book or 2 as needed to help seat the new assembly on the adhesive tape & get glass sat at right height. Normally if centre chassis not bent from removing old lcd assembly the rebuild fits back rather easily & perfect.

Well this is awkward...
Ah yes... so i did fix my phone, it was working perfectly!
However I forgot the key thing about myself, I destroy everything. Yep! The same day I fixed it, I was outside and i dropped it face first and now it has stopped working completely. The poor thing fell from quite a distance.
To make matters worst, I somehow lost my SIM Card, which had a good amount of credit. Luckily I'd been saving up and I've bought a HTC Sensation. Damn I miss my HD2