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[Q] Broken LCD screen :(

Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!

The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.

EVO 4g Power Button Failure and Repair - $14!

My Evo 4g started to develop the dreaded power button failure problems with it randomly not waking up the phone up or putting it to sleep. Over the past few weeks it got progressively worse until it fully failed over the weekend and the only way I could wake my phone up was to plug in the USB cord or have someone text or call me. I was super bummed because my Evo has been a great phone and I don't want to waste my upgrade on a new phone until they get LTE here ... maybe sometime in 2013?
So the good news is that I tried to repair it and found a fix that works! I can't guarantee that it will work for you, but it did for me! Here is what I did:
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove all 6 torx screws (T5) that secures the red internal frame to the display. One of the torx screw is covered with a black paper-like covering - don't miss that one. It's easy to push the torx wrench through the black paper material to get to the torx head.
3. Carefully pry the red internal housing from the display housing. Start on one side and work around the phone.
4. With the red internal housing removed, unscrew the small phillips screw in the upper corner to remove the motherboard from the display housing. The motherboard will now lift out of the display housing. Don't detach any cables.
6. As you remove the motherboard, look at where the power button is located in the display frame. Just under the power button - but attached to the underside of the motherboard - you will find the actual power button. It is a small silver square at the top of the motherboard with a black button at the top of the motherboard.
Now here is the fix that worked for me...
7. Flip the motherboard over and away from the display so the power button is facing up. There will be some cables holding the display and the motherboard together.
8. Get a can of Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner (contact cleaner). See attached picture of what I used.
9. Hold the phone unit so the power button is lower than the rest of the phone and spray the power button electronics with the contact cleaner using the contact cleaner with spray tube. I was careful not to overspray the mother board (but some did get on the motherboard), and I made sure I didn't get any on the display housing.
10. Let contact cleaner dry for a few minutes, reassemble, and test when completely dry.
That's it! The contact cleaner must have cleaned out whatever corrosion or material was in the power button because it works perfectly now. I did this on Monday of this week and still no problem three days later. Total repair: about $14!
If you are apprehensive about taking apart your phone, here is a link with step-by-step instructions: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC-Evo-4G-Teardown/2979/1
So if you are experiencing the dreaded power button failure and you are out of warranty, give this a try before you throw your money away. Hopefully it will work for you!

IT WORKS!!
You sir are a genius. Thank you for the walk through.

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you

thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.

did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?

I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem

12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!

bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)

12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!

Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards

maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.

Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks

maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

[Q] Power button not working

I cracked my screen and replaced the screen, digitizer, and frame. Before replacing it the power button worked fine, in fact turned on just before I got the case off annoyingly. Replaced all the parts, made sure the power button pcb was in place, and charged the battery which causes the screen to light up. But now the power button is not turning on the phone. I'm a bit confused, it feels like its hitting the button. Wonder if anyone has run into this problem when tearing apart there phone and putting it back together? I'm going to check the power button pcb again, and try to power it up with the back off.
Edit: Torn it apart again, checked the power PCB board with my multimeter and I have continuity when the button is pressed. Made sure the power button is touching the logic board to. I starting to think my logic board got fried when I torn it apart. Would the logic board be fried if the screen still lights up when you plug in a charging cable?
Solution: Figured it out. The bent contact pins that touch the logic board 1 had been bent to much in while disassembling and reassembling so it wasn't actually touch the logic board. Couldn't see it till I could the tiny power pcb board out.
Also figured out how I bent it. When you take the black plastic cover off the logic board the clip on the left side is a bit tricky to get off. The only good spot to get under the cover is right next to the power board, and I happen to wedge my pry tool at some point between the logic board and the pin on the power PCB. I also found out I did the same thing on the volume PCB for volume down. So just an FYI to watch out for that when taking this thing apart.

The quest for a perfect HD2

Well actually I just want my HD2 back the way it was, recently it's been giving me issues with the screen. I couldn't unlock it, and it would periodically work when I put immense pressure on the Call End button, however, after about 2 months of doing so, it stopped working completely. Normally it would work after 10-20 tries of unlocking it, but i tried for days, I tried every possible thing, and I really didn't want to resort to replacing the digitizer. Being 13 and all, it wasn't going to be easy, but I knew if my parents found out I'd be dead meat (I wouldn't blame them for going ballistic, I have a weird tendency to break things).
So I'm going to attempt a screen replacement, I've already opened it up (having an eBay account with money in it is is really helpful in my situation) and it isn't looking good... I've already snapped the ribbon cable for the lower button panel... luckily I ordered one off of eBay just in case it was on its last legs anyway. I've bought the following things.
-HTC HD2 Digitizer + Screen + All tools (Socket Digitizer) - £24.55
-T4, T5, T6, T7, and T8 Screwdriver set - £1.55
-HTC HD2 Lower button panel - £2.51
-HTC HD2 Anti-Glare Screen Protectors 5x - £1.19
-*MAYBE* HTC HD2 Rear battery cover £2.00
At first I was going to replace the digitizer until I saw all the risks, like damaging the screen itself and all that, and having to apply adhesive and using low level heat etc. So I just bought the whole assembly. Before I took it apart, I checked if I had a Socket Digitizer or a Solder Digitizer... yep, without taking it apart. I did this by holding the Volume Down Button and the Red Power Button, and I held this until I saw the 3 colour screen. On the 4th line down, this should be written 0x50 or 0x30, if it is 0x50, then you have a Socket Digitizer, if it's 0x30. It is the solder type. As you can see, my Digitizer is socket type, but this didn't really matter as I am going to replace the screen as well. I found the information about 3 coloured screen from somewhere from XDA, I can't quite remember where though.
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All of those things should be coming soon (except for the button pad, it was from china) so hopefully, I will have a perfect HD2 soon, however, for the moment, I am stuck with a T-Mobile Vairy Touch 2... Oh and can someone give me suggestions for the smoothest JB ROM for the HD2?
I just hope my HD2 doesn't die in the process...
Thanks for reading, I'll update as I go along

Worth noting the bootloader screen doesn't show the digitizer version always correctly when HSPL is installed, not that matters as you have a complete assembly anyway.
Only tips I will give is take a lot of care & keep all screws etc safe so not lost when re-assembly time comes. Take care when handling device not to damage snap off the spring fingers that contact against the aerials as they easily bent & break off when repositioning if not careful.
If you have lifted the entire ribbon board with volume key be very careful not to damage it or loose the small push caps on face of volume key & refit volume key properly.
When your parts turn up you can test function prior to assembly by plugging screen assembly into mainboard & attaching new button ribbon to mainboard, then hold the battery onto the mainboard contacts & press the power button & see screen & digitizer is working ok.
Good adhesive tape is needed to mount & hold the lcd to centre chassis & adding bit more tape than standard in places such as corners is not a bad thing.
Rest comes down to taking care & a bit of luck. Hope works out for you .

I can confirm that the bootloader was correct as my digitizer is the socket type. Oh and, when I took everything apart to check it actually was a socket type, the volume keys fell off, I put everything back together (without the motherboard and stuff) I put the volume keys back and It didn't feel right. I couldn't press the Increase Volume Button, however when I screwed it in place it felt better -but still wobbly and it feels like it's going to fall of with a little bit of pressure.
Can I check the condition of the screen and digitizer without the lower button panel. The Screen + Digitizer should come on Monday, but since the button panel was from china, it will take 2-3 weeks. And If I put extra adhesive will the rear frame fit?
Thanks for the tips

Be careful with those volume keys as the volume board is easily damaged, you will have to review that area carefully when doing final assembly.
If you have not fully stripped it yet then do not remove the flex board completely or all the cables running down by the volume key.
You can just loosen the flex ribbon across the bottom where plugs to mainboard & about 2cm+ up. With button board disconnected along with other cables the board will lift enough to access the lcd connector on the back. Use a toothpick to work the locking bar up off the lcd connector then lcd ribbon can be worked out using a tool or toothpick.
Saves a lot of work & all the tape on volume board remains factory spec with small strips wrapped round the push caps & build label is mainly untouched.
All you are doing with extra adhesive strip is putting it in a few areas that originally did not have strip laid on it & would look beneficial to aid support as none of the tapes have the same bond strength as original. Don't build up more than one layer of tape or thickness will make digi too high from housing edge.
I personally use PU40 adhesive and add 5 rice grain spots down sides & in corners & make gaps in tape for it as really holds the assembly nicely like original build were as tapes tend to come loose & lift in corners or feel spongy.
I would wait till button board turns up as very easy to test with that & other options just result in a lot of hassle & possible mishaps.
Do take care when removing & inserting the lcd ribbon as the mainboard socket is easily damaged then you will have lcd display issues or no touch & probably no chance of rectifying it. Sometimes those chinese orders can be surprisingly quick ...

Thanks for the extremely helpful information!
I will take care in replacing the Digitizer, I don't know what type of adhesive to buy, do I need adhesive strips; would something like this work?
Thanks for all the info, and I really do hope it's quick...
I really don't want my parents to find out
EDIT:
Would this tape be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Frame-Repair-Sticker-LCD-Tape-for-HTC-HD2-T8585-Adhesive-/130999079729?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneFascias_JN&hash=item1e80275331

Yes the LCDFIX frame tape would do & has the advantage of having the pre shaped black foam adhesive pads that seal & bond the top & bottom edges of digitizer.
The actual tape they supply is not that high tack as I have used it before but ok & if used with a little pu40 silicone adhesive the final build is much better long term ...
Don't think your parents should be complaining seems you are saving money & being environmentally active in repairing rather than scrapping.
Digitizer is common issue on the HD2 so probably not your bad on this occasion
Hope works out well & another HD2 is revived ...

I will look into that PU40 Silicone Adhesive as I don't want to be constantly opening and closing my HD2 so I do want it to be long term.
I think if they find out they will think I'm going to break it. I've already broken the button board ribbon cable, but as I said before I already bought one. Yeah, I noticed the amount of people with the same issue was a lot. But I have only had this phone for like 5 months (got it on eBay for £60), thought it was a good deal... 5 months down I need to replace the screen + digitizer. Why did HTC make an amazing phone with such a common fault
Thanks, I hope I don't kill my precious HD2

Well they can last about 2 to 3 years before failure which not too bad. Digitizer of that screen size & minimal bezel bonding was quite unique when HD2 came out & bezel size is only just being beaten now.
Ribbons tend to get brittle with age due to heat cycles they endure from the device & the one on digitizer also flexes a little when device twisted about in your pocket or right hand side keys used hard which all helps the failure.
As you found out with button board tail they are easily torn ... Would not beat yourself up over that as most people do a lot worse when opening an HD2.
If you use pu40 or similar adhesive sealant only very little spots are required, really does hold the corners in nicely & gives a more firm untouched feeling finish to the build.
Do check everything & plan the reassembly before actually doing it so nothing missed or made awkward, also you want device assembled before sealant fully dry so can lay HD2 on its back with a thick card spacer cut slightly smaller than the digitizer then add a book or 2 as needed to help seat the new assembly on the adhesive tape & get glass sat at right height. Normally if centre chassis not bent from removing old lcd assembly the rebuild fits back rather easily & perfect.

Well this is awkward...
Ah yes... so i did fix my phone, it was working perfectly!
However I forgot the key thing about myself, I destroy everything. Yep! The same day I fixed it, I was outside and i dropped it face first and now it has stopped working completely. The poor thing fell from quite a distance.
To make matters worst, I somehow lost my SIM Card, which had a good amount of credit. Luckily I'd been saving up and I've bought a HTC Sensation. Damn I miss my HD2