I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.
s
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SHORT AND SIMPLE:
Basically short the connection of d21 to ground. This is how the button works, one ground point and one hot point. The button just touches these two together.
Long and detailed:
So... about a year ago, I got my first A500. Broken. Figured out power button was broke. Figured out how to rewire it, but ended up shorting the motherboard out RIGHT AFTER I GOT IT TO TURN ON....
Today, bought another one on ebay, broken. Has been sent in for power button repair previously.... Everything looked fine.... started researching... finally just dived in and removed the hotglue that was holding the power button. Ah HAH! Solder joints were broken, but button still "clicked".
So... after 6 hours trying to solder the button back on, I went another route. I call it perma fix, because the power button no longer depends on the soldered connection for structural integrity. Also, it should still allow minor shifting without breaking the connection.
View attachment 1753275
Step 1:
Remove power button (probably already fell off on yours)
Step 2: De-solder the the original solder pads, the power button used to connect to. Make sure the two holes on the left and right of the three pads are wide open.
Step 3: Get two pieces of stranded wire, remove enough strands until each "wire" can fit into the two holes. (twist strands for extra strength)
Step 4: Solder the tip of one strand to one outside pin of the power button, solder tip of other strand to other outside pin.
Step 5: Turn power button upside down, solder each strand along the side of the button pointing down.
(You should now have a power button with two strands of wire physically soldered to the power button metal frame and the far left and far right pins)
Step 6: Solder a single TINY strand of wire to the middle pin of power button.
Step 7: Push the two supporting strands through the two holes the metal case USED to go into. Solder them.
Step 7B: Now that the power button is upside down, and has, on each side, a strand of wire soldered to the metal frame, and is soldered to the board like in step 7.
All three pins of the power button should now be up in the air, instead of touching the PCB. Solder pins 1 & 3 to the metal frame/strands. THIS IS YOUR GROUND.
So pins 1 and 3, attach to metal frame, which attaches to wire strands, which attach to PCB where the metal feet of the power button metal cover used to go.
Step 8: Solder the TINY strand of wire, to the bottom left of D21. (If your looking at the board, the volumes buttons are up, power and headphone jack to the left, and sd card slot to the right, all facing you on the same side of the board the power button mounts to)
(Please note, in this picture, the power button has not yet been attached to the board permanently, the button is supposed to be flush with the board, not raised up as in this pic.)
Step 9: adjustment of power button height. My tablet wouldn't "click" when pressing the power button on the case, so adjustments were needed.
Either:
A:
Get something no thicker than a dime, that doesn't conduct electricity, and put between power button and old solder points
B: Use hot-glue, and push power button down, but leave a dimes thickness of hot-glue between board and power button
Step 10:
suspend wire strand between headphone jack and power button, and route through this area, leading to bottom left pin of D21.)
Step 11: use hot glue, and just suspend the strand close to the board, but keep enough hotglue between it and the board, so it doesn't short, but also, low enough so you can still fit the cover back on
(BTW: I have tested this, it does work. I traced the points. Far left and right pins go to ground, and center pin, routes to bottom left pin of D21)
Update:
Hasn't given me a problem yet, used ~12 hours a day. Power button is used alot, to turn of the screen, and to reboot because custom rom still leaks.
Stay away from silicone, moves too much, hot glue is much better, alot stiffer!
SaschaElble said:
Hasn't given me a problem yet, used ~12 hours a day. Power button is used alot, to turn of the screen, and to reboot because custom rom still leaks.
Stay away from silicone, moves too much, hot glue is much better, alot stiffer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand you used the strands to hold the power to the PCB by the sides of it (metal frame with legs going into the holes to the side), but when you said the left and right pins sticking out from the rear (along with the center one connected to D21) were GND, how did you keep them grounded?
On the attached thumbnail, you can see the metal frame is soldered to the PCB at green points and violet points; the yellow point being soldered to the left leg of D21. But what do I do with the red legs?
On my PCB, the button clips onto the metal frame latches that hold it in place. Under the microscope, it looks like it would take little force to pull those legs off the PCB copper spots (these do not go through the board as the frame legs do). So I can (1) unclip the button; (2) pry the rear legs off with an Exacto blade tip; (3) solder D21; (4) ground the left and right legs, pour some hot glue on, and be done with it! Am I doing it right?
I've updated step 7 and added, step 7B for clarity. Thank you graphdarnell for pointing it out.
EVERY part will desolder. The metel case of the power button IS GROUND. Just solder pins 1 & 3 to the metal case. Since the power button is upside down this gives you room to put the strands on the side into the holes in the pcb, where the feet of the metal case used to go.
graphdarnell said:
I understand you used the strands to hold the power to the PCB by the sides of it (metal frame with legs going into the holes to the side), but when you said the left and right pins sticking out from the rear (along with the center one connected to D21) were GND, how did you keep them grounded?
On the attached thumbnail, you can see the metal frame is soldered to the PCB at green points and violet points; the yellow point being soldered to the left leg of D21. But what do I do with the red legs?
On my PCB, the button clips onto the metal frame latches that hold it in place. Under the microscope, it looks like it would take little force to pull those legs off the PCB copper spots (these do not go through the board as the frame legs do). So I can (1) unclip the button; (2) pry the rear legs off with an Exacto blade tip; (3) solder D21; (4) ground the left and right legs, pour some hot glue on, and be done with it! Am I doing it right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update
This powerbutton fix STILL WORKS to this day.
SaschaElble said:
This powerbutton fix STILL WORKS to this day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are a genius, I tried gluing it back and no luck but then I decided to take the jump and bought a 48W soldering station for 16€ and a really small head for 3,95€. They did a great job for noob like me who has only soldered one layer chips with big contacts. It took two hours to clean the previous attempt's mess and do the soldering. When I was done I only hooked up the battery, display-cable etc. necessary stuff and gave it a quick try.. IT WORKED! I only could solder the right ground instead of both left and right but I didn't let it bother me.
First thing tomorrow, I will go to local hardware store and buy some hot glue and then I try to assemble it.
My model is A501 so there is the PCI-E card for the 3g connectivity but it doesn't change anything in means of repairing the button.
You saved me the cost of new motherboard with this thread so I'm really thankful.
thx
hi and thx !
could you tell me if the ground-1&3pins-wires are soldered to the holes on the back of PCB?
thx !!
Excellent guide thank you. For those of you who dont have a switch here is what I did. I used a radio shack p/n 275-0003 switch. It fits perfect inside the front housing where the power button should go. I then wired 2 of the poles to the GRD points & the power circuit toggle to D21 as described above.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dSkhuUmJNTVNjSG8/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dckloNlR0ZzVOWXc/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3y0IxAHbv5dVUE4eTk3OUYxUmM/edit?usp=sharing
thx for the great idea! can you take a picture of the soldered GND spots on pcb please?
my power button broke yesterday! about a month after the 2 year coscto warranty ended.
GRRRR - Will try the Radio shack Fix
FORFUN83 said:
thx for the great idea! can you take a picture of the soldered GND spots on pcb please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late reply, I already have my A500 together but its the outer two of the 3 contacts to the left of the LED the orig switch attaches to. Here is a pic from another forum
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n198/josbek/Puters/Old-motherboard-down-close_zpsad336662.jpg
Ronbo85 said:
Sorry for the late reply, I already have my A500 together but its the outer two of the 3 contacts to the left of the LED the orig switch attaches to. Here is a pic from another forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thx! but what about the 4 pins of the switch?(ABCD on my private msg) which pin are soldered to the GND spot please?
FORFUN83 said:
thx! but what about the 4 pins of the switch?(ABCD on my private msg) which pin are soldered to the GND spot please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check you PM
So let me get this right. You only need to solder 2 wires into the 2 holes?
I temporarily fixed this issue by carefully gluing the power button with care to avoid getting it over the contacts I saw on the board and the device.
Looks like that didn't work for more than a few months.
So now I'm going to try using electrically conductive adhesive on top of it on the specific areas pointed out.
Wish me luck
agent0105 said:
You are a genius, I tried gluing it back and no luck but then I decided to take the jump and bought a 48W soldering station for 16€ and a really small head for 3,95€. They did a great job for noob like me who has only soldered one layer chips with big contacts. It took two hours to clean the previous attempt's mess and do the soldering. When I was done I only hooked up the battery, display-cable etc. necessary stuff and gave it a quick try.. IT WORKED! I only could solder the right ground instead of both left and right but I didn't let it bother me.
First thing tomorrow, I will go to local hardware store and buy some hot glue and then I try to assemble it.
My model is A501 so there is the PCI-E card for the 3g connectivity but it doesn't change anything in means of repairing the button.
You saved me the cost of new motherboard with this thread so I'm really thankful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, I'm impressed, and thankful to know my information helped someone else. I had someone message me, and actually paid me a visit in person to fix his iconia.
Oh and p.s my iconia is STILL running. 100% PermaFix
So I got the 275-003 switch from radio shack which has 4 poles so 2 poles on the same side I used as ground and one from the other side to D21, when I plug the battery in, the screen turns on but the button does nothing. Did I miss something?
k00lguy105 said:
So I got the 275-003 switch from radio shack which has 4 poles so 2 poles on the same side I used as ground and one from the other side to D21, when I plug the battery in, the screen turns on but the button does nothing. Did I miss something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2 poles from the same side on the 275-003 tactile switch are bridged only when the button is pressed. So if you solder those 2 together, then your closing the circuit, which is why the tablet turns on when you plug in the battery. You have to use 1 pole of the same side for ground, and the other for your power. I tested this with a multimeter just to make sure.
Edit: I actually broke the solder point mentioned as the bottom left D21 point. From the 3 poles from the original tactile switch, the 2 outside poles are connected on the switch and the middle pole closes the circuit when the button is pressed. I'm using one of the outside points and the middle one to turn on the tablet via the Radio Shack 275-003 tactile switch.
chokey154 said:
The 2 poles from the same side on the 275-003 tactile switch are bridged only when the button is pressed. So if you solder those 2 together, then your closing the circuit, which is why the tablet turns on when you plug in the battery. You have to use 1 pole of the same side for ground, and the other for your power. I tested this with a multimeter just to make sure.
Edit: I actually broke the solder point mentioned as the bottom left D21 point. From the 3 poles from the original tactile switch, the 2 outside poles are connected on the switch and the middle pole closes the circuit when the button is pressed. I'm using one of the outside points and the middle one to turn on the tablet via the Radio Shack 275-003 tactile switch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The left D21 point seemed to do nothing, but I soldered a wire to the center point and only on the right and put them both on the same side on the switch and it worked! Thanks!
This was my first time soldering ever, did some tests on an old dying HDD PCB first then did the switch, was much easier then I thought, except I don't have very steady hands but I look forward to doing more soldering projects.
Hi, I been struggling with this power button issue for a couple of weeks now, trying to find a place that does this fix to no luck yet (aside from an ebay seller that does it for 50dlls plus shipping that ends up being about 85dlls) so I'm thinking about doing it myself, the thing is that I'm not well versed with soldering mobos so I want to know what kind of soldering iron should I use for this and any other general tips you may have for this project to be successful
Watch plenty of YouTube videos on soldering. Get a fine tip for the soldering iron. Use flux core solder. Get a hot glue gun or use silicone. You can reuse the original button if havnt lost it. Look at the pics. Read the entire thread, some good tips and clarifications to be found. Again, nice to see this thread still being useful! Oh and practice soldering on a broken piece of electronics, like k00lguy105 did!