I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point
Related
I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.
Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....
Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.
Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.
When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).
FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
im not really sure about how to initally get into the recovery withour the volume keys, but if you can some how, a touch CMW recovery will work
it has directional keys on the bottom of the screen for you to navigate around
just flash it like you wud a normal recovery with what ever set-up size you need!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419733
On the non touch cwm (some of them anyway) you can use home and menu hard keys to scroll as well as volume.
But as already mentioned,you can't get into recovery so having touch or alternate keys won't help.
matcoder said:
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT FLASH ANYTHING WITH DAMAGED VOLUME KEYS!!
I flashed a splash screen on mine after damaging ribbon to volume keys and now I have a main board that will NOT recognize these keys even after replacing the broken part, I cant say yours will do this, but mine did soo...
I have replaced two screens on mine, the ribbon to the volume rocker is very delicate i tore two of them on my first screen replacement ( i buy bricked HD2s' for screens). I have had my HD2 now almost two years and no parts are original. Just recently i FINALLY bought one with a busted out screen so i could replace just the main ribbon assembly and a main board that can use volume keys.
This main ribbon sits under your regulatory label ( with the FCC shiz and serial #'s) its integral with your GPS radio, camera assembly, and of course volume rocker keys.
This can be replaced with only moderate difficulty, there are videos even from HTC that explains how to disassemble/reassemble everything safely and in order.
Disassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4
Reassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=channel&list=UL
I found those after I ripped not one but two volume key ribbons....
To do this you need to pay attention to how the coaxial cables for bluetooth(white) and GPS(black thin) sit, to avoid a few hours of trial and error. getting everything to fit again.
First disconnect the coaxial from blutooth be gentle now, its the white cable at the left of my first image, that phone is nowhere near assembled remember how your cable was positioned. remove and unplug the speaker as well as the vibrator as you move the white cable out of the way, stop pulling it when you hit the screw hole at the top right corner of regulatory label.
Just above where the screw hole is you should see another plug like the blutooth coaxial only black disconnect that and leave it there. try to leave the thicker black cable that leads to camera connected, its ok if it comes out but its a pain to get connected again.
When the top right of your phone looks like my second pic your ready to remove the screw keeping the gps in place thats the top right screw, silver.
disconnect the camera cable from the main board its right next to the battery terminals, the only plug there and hard to miss behind where your simcard goes.
This is important..... right behind the volume keys is the groove thats keeping those coaxial and camera cables in place, under those is the ribbon leading to volume rocker. taking note of how they fit remove these cables from the groove 4th pic
Sorry about the detail cameras are less than perfect on ICS builds and im a terrible photographer on top of that. you must understand that there is a black tape holding those wires together near the mother board, thats right where the volume ribbon is so be careful when you get to that. i just cut/tear the tape holding wires in place, also one of the coaxial cables plugs under the main board right there as well be careful not to disconnect that, you wont hurt anything but its a pain to get it back.
after cables are free from groove you can remove volume rocker. rocker board is held with adhesive just like the camera up top. using fingernail pry the board away from its housing, when its loose from the housing its glued to just let it sit loose, be gentle while getting that loose.
now for the gps/camera, you can fit a small flat head screwdriver between edges of gps board and the plastic of the phone casing, the gps board has clip holding left side so go from the right or the same side that screw was in.
the camera is only adhered so you can put pressure to wherever you feel comfortable its actually pretty solid i have done it a few times and never harmed it.
peel it like you would a sticker down to the main board where it connects under the sdcard then pull it straight back. the last image is what the assembly looks like in tact so have an idea of where not to put too much stress when peeling it.
again DONT FLASH ANYTHING IF YOU RIPPED RIBBON TO VOLUME ROCKER!! This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board....
HD2's with busted screens go for about $60-80 off ebay shipped. send me message if you have any q's, also that ribbon/camera/gps assembly in last picture is tested by me and fully functional, also much cheaper than a busted screen HD2 ........
Hi mrbox23,
I believe I have flashed my HTC HD2 (or at least tried) and now I can't get past the HTC splash screen and can't initiate the bootloader!
Hi opened the HTC HD2 and found that the ribbon/flex to volume rocker is cutted!
Now, according to your post it's probable that if I replace the whole main flex I won't be able to initiate bootloadr because the mainboard won't recognise the volume buttons?
Another question is: you said "This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board...." this means that I can still use my HTC HD 2 using the sd memory card only with some build? If so can you tell me, or at least, point out some post where to do it? Because in every post that I saw it is necessary to be able to initiate the bootloader!
I would be very gratefull if you could help me on this.
Best regards,
calcaneo
My Evo 4g started to develop the dreaded power button failure problems with it randomly not waking up the phone up or putting it to sleep. Over the past few weeks it got progressively worse until it fully failed over the weekend and the only way I could wake my phone up was to plug in the USB cord or have someone text or call me. I was super bummed because my Evo has been a great phone and I don't want to waste my upgrade on a new phone until they get LTE here ... maybe sometime in 2013?
So the good news is that I tried to repair it and found a fix that works! I can't guarantee that it will work for you, but it did for me! Here is what I did:
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove all 6 torx screws (T5) that secures the red internal frame to the display. One of the torx screw is covered with a black paper-like covering - don't miss that one. It's easy to push the torx wrench through the black paper material to get to the torx head.
3. Carefully pry the red internal housing from the display housing. Start on one side and work around the phone.
4. With the red internal housing removed, unscrew the small phillips screw in the upper corner to remove the motherboard from the display housing. The motherboard will now lift out of the display housing. Don't detach any cables.
6. As you remove the motherboard, look at where the power button is located in the display frame. Just under the power button - but attached to the underside of the motherboard - you will find the actual power button. It is a small silver square at the top of the motherboard with a black button at the top of the motherboard.
Now here is the fix that worked for me...
7. Flip the motherboard over and away from the display so the power button is facing up. There will be some cables holding the display and the motherboard together.
8. Get a can of Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner (contact cleaner). See attached picture of what I used.
9. Hold the phone unit so the power button is lower than the rest of the phone and spray the power button electronics with the contact cleaner using the contact cleaner with spray tube. I was careful not to overspray the mother board (but some did get on the motherboard), and I made sure I didn't get any on the display housing.
10. Let contact cleaner dry for a few minutes, reassemble, and test when completely dry.
That's it! The contact cleaner must have cleaned out whatever corrosion or material was in the power button because it works perfectly now. I did this on Monday of this week and still no problem three days later. Total repair: about $14!
If you are apprehensive about taking apart your phone, here is a link with step-by-step instructions: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC-Evo-4G-Teardown/2979/1
So if you are experiencing the dreaded power button failure and you are out of warranty, give this a try before you throw your money away. Hopefully it will work for you!
IT WORKS!!
You sir are a genius. Thank you for the walk through.
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.
I cracked my screen and replaced the screen, digitizer, and frame. Before replacing it the power button worked fine, in fact turned on just before I got the case off annoyingly. Replaced all the parts, made sure the power button pcb was in place, and charged the battery which causes the screen to light up. But now the power button is not turning on the phone. I'm a bit confused, it feels like its hitting the button. Wonder if anyone has run into this problem when tearing apart there phone and putting it back together? I'm going to check the power button pcb again, and try to power it up with the back off.
Edit: Torn it apart again, checked the power PCB board with my multimeter and I have continuity when the button is pressed. Made sure the power button is touching the logic board to. I starting to think my logic board got fried when I torn it apart. Would the logic board be fried if the screen still lights up when you plug in a charging cable?
Solution: Figured it out. The bent contact pins that touch the logic board 1 had been bent to much in while disassembling and reassembling so it wasn't actually touch the logic board. Couldn't see it till I could the tiny power pcb board out.
Also figured out how I bent it. When you take the black plastic cover off the logic board the clip on the left side is a bit tricky to get off. The only good spot to get under the cover is right next to the power board, and I happen to wedge my pry tool at some point between the logic board and the pin on the power PCB. I also found out I did the same thing on the volume PCB for volume down. So just an FYI to watch out for that when taking this thing apart.