[Q] Can't upgrade any rom - volume keys not working - HD2 Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting and Genera

Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys

im not really sure about how to initally get into the recovery withour the volume keys, but if you can some how, a touch CMW recovery will work
it has directional keys on the bottom of the screen for you to navigate around
just flash it like you wud a normal recovery with what ever set-up size you need!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419733

On the non touch cwm (some of them anyway) you can use home and menu hard keys to scroll as well as volume.
But as already mentioned,you can't get into recovery so having touch or alternate keys won't help.

matcoder said:
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT FLASH ANYTHING WITH DAMAGED VOLUME KEYS!!
I flashed a splash screen on mine after damaging ribbon to volume keys and now I have a main board that will NOT recognize these keys even after replacing the broken part, I cant say yours will do this, but mine did soo...
I have replaced two screens on mine, the ribbon to the volume rocker is very delicate i tore two of them on my first screen replacement ( i buy bricked HD2s' for screens). I have had my HD2 now almost two years and no parts are original. Just recently i FINALLY bought one with a busted out screen so i could replace just the main ribbon assembly and a main board that can use volume keys.
This main ribbon sits under your regulatory label ( with the FCC shiz and serial #'s) its integral with your GPS radio, camera assembly, and of course volume rocker keys.
This can be replaced with only moderate difficulty, there are videos even from HTC that explains how to disassemble/reassemble everything safely and in order.
Disassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4
Reassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=channel&list=UL
I found those after I ripped not one but two volume key ribbons....
To do this you need to pay attention to how the coaxial cables for bluetooth(white) and GPS(black thin) sit, to avoid a few hours of trial and error. getting everything to fit again.
First disconnect the coaxial from blutooth be gentle now, its the white cable at the left of my first image, that phone is nowhere near assembled remember how your cable was positioned. remove and unplug the speaker as well as the vibrator as you move the white cable out of the way, stop pulling it when you hit the screw hole at the top right corner of regulatory label.
Just above where the screw hole is you should see another plug like the blutooth coaxial only black disconnect that and leave it there. try to leave the thicker black cable that leads to camera connected, its ok if it comes out but its a pain to get connected again.
When the top right of your phone looks like my second pic your ready to remove the screw keeping the gps in place thats the top right screw, silver.
disconnect the camera cable from the main board its right next to the battery terminals, the only plug there and hard to miss behind where your simcard goes.
This is important..... right behind the volume keys is the groove thats keeping those coaxial and camera cables in place, under those is the ribbon leading to volume rocker. taking note of how they fit remove these cables from the groove 4th pic
Sorry about the detail cameras are less than perfect on ICS builds and im a terrible photographer on top of that. you must understand that there is a black tape holding those wires together near the mother board, thats right where the volume ribbon is so be careful when you get to that. i just cut/tear the tape holding wires in place, also one of the coaxial cables plugs under the main board right there as well be careful not to disconnect that, you wont hurt anything but its a pain to get it back.
after cables are free from groove you can remove volume rocker. rocker board is held with adhesive just like the camera up top. using fingernail pry the board away from its housing, when its loose from the housing its glued to just let it sit loose, be gentle while getting that loose.
now for the gps/camera, you can fit a small flat head screwdriver between edges of gps board and the plastic of the phone casing, the gps board has clip holding left side so go from the right or the same side that screw was in.
the camera is only adhered so you can put pressure to wherever you feel comfortable its actually pretty solid i have done it a few times and never harmed it.
peel it like you would a sticker down to the main board where it connects under the sdcard then pull it straight back. the last image is what the assembly looks like in tact so have an idea of where not to put too much stress when peeling it.
again DONT FLASH ANYTHING IF YOU RIPPED RIBBON TO VOLUME ROCKER!! This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board....
HD2's with busted screens go for about $60-80 off ebay shipped. send me message if you have any q's, also that ribbon/camera/gps assembly in last picture is tested by me and fully functional, also much cheaper than a busted screen HD2 ........

Hi mrbox23,
I believe I have flashed my HTC HD2 (or at least tried) and now I can't get past the HTC splash screen and can't initiate the bootloader!
Hi opened the HTC HD2 and found that the ribbon/flex to volume rocker is cutted!
Now, according to your post it's probable that if I replace the whole main flex I won't be able to initiate bootloadr because the mainboard won't recognise the volume buttons?
Another question is: you said "This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board...." this means that I can still use my HTC HD 2 using the sd memory card only with some build? If so can you tell me, or at least, point out some post where to do it? Because in every post that I saw it is necessary to be able to initiate the bootloader!
I would be very gratefull if you could help me on this.
Best regards,
calcaneo

Related

Has anyone fixed/soldered a broken power button?

I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point

[Q] Broken LCD screen :(

Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!
The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.

[Q] HTC HD2 weak wifi signal

Hey i installed gingerbread android 2.3.7 on my phone again but this time im getting really weak wifi signals... i'm only 5 feet away from router. It was not like this before so i do not know whats going on ( i only dropped my phone twice)
can you guys help me? is it a software issues or hardware?
happy thanksgiving
I would recommend installing a few different roms (that are known to work with wifi) and see if anything changes/improves.
If nothing improves, maybe flash back to winmo 6.5 and see if wifi improves.
If nothing improves then, you may have damaged your wifi antennae when you dropped it then hit up T-mobile!
Best of luck mate.
Possibly knocked the wifi coax loose from the mainboard. It's pretty easy to open up an HD2 and reattach that cable, I've had mine come loose before and that's what I had to do.
I'd definitely try the steps in the above post first just to make sure it's not a rom or kernel specific issue. And if it's still under warranty, don't bother taking it apart and ruining your warranty, obviously just return it to t-Mobile.
hey can you explain in more detail how to push back the wifi coax cable your talking about
Remove the battery cover, battery, sim card, and sd card.
Remove the 4 torx screws that are under little round stickers under the battery cover.
Using an old credit card or a plastic knife, slide between the screen and the housing to release the little plastic clips one by one which hold the housing to the phone's chassis.
Take your time and be careful not to scratch the housing or stick the card/knife in too far, damaging the fragile stuff inside,
It helps to put a little pressure on the back side of the screen wth your thumb while orying with the credit card (back of screen under battery)
The wifi coaxial cable runs from one corner of the mainboard, up along one side of the chassis, is taped together with some other wires, and leads to another small board up near the top of the phone.
Check the connections at both ends, making sure they are connected firmly and are in straight.
You might want to unplug them, just to be sure and hear/feel them click into place.
Take your time, set yourself aside a nice little workspace, and if you are unsure of anything, don't hesitate to come back here and ask.
There is a disassembly video here in the HD2 section somewhere, I think it's in HD2 General. It'd be worth it to search for it and watch at least the first part of the video, just to get an idea what you're dealing with. It's not a very hard job, it should take you like maybe an hour/hour and a half start to finish.
This will void your warranty permanently though.
Thank you sir i just followed the steps you did and it fixed the problem my wifi works fine but now i have another issue....
i dont know if i touched something or disconnected something in the process but my sound, vibration and volume button does not work. External speaker is not playing any sound (no music or key button taps) and no sound is made when placing a phone call BUT the other person on the end can hear me just fine so i'm guessing i might of disconnected like the speaker. ( my assumption)
thanks again for your help
Oh and when a call is being placed or recieved the screen automatically turns off and it becomes non responsive i.e if i take my phone off the ear and want to put it on hold the screen is still black instead of turning back on
The screen going black during a call is a pretty common problem with the HD2, and is likely not related to disassembling your phone as long as the screen functions normally otherwise. Since you didn't take your phone far enough apart to affect the light/proximity sensor, I can't imagine how disassembly would have affected it. You would have to take the mainboard and screen out from the chassis to get to that sensor.
The volume problem on the other hand, is probably due to either your volume rocker not being placed correctly during re-assembly, or the speaker contacts not being aligned properly. You'll have to take it back apart and ivestigate what went wrong.
Try going into Settings/Sound, and checking that the volume is not turned all the way down. If the volume is not all the way down, then you should be able to hear sound, so your speaker is probably not aligned properly.
Does your volume rocker feel different than before? If it doesn't make a definite 'click' when you press it, then it is probably slightly out of place. Also look for any wires that could have been pinched and damaged when you snapped your phone back together.
What is a volume rocker? When i start the phone it usually vibrates once then goes through the starting procoess. Now it doesn't vibrate at all. Phone turns on and i click the volume button up and nothing happens. I checked settings and everything is up
I have the phone opened as we speak and the reciever cable is connected and the vibrator cable is connected too. I tried to use tweezers to see if i can unhook it but their on too tight so thats a good thing. The two orange dots on the volume thing.. the bottom on was slightly off so i put i centered it
Still nothing works. no vibrating no sound ( the person on the other line can hear me but i can't hear anything) but the phone works great.
Im so confused
The volume rocker is the button that 'rocks' back and forth to control the volume.
It has to be positioned right in order to push the contacts that lie beneath it.
Since your phone's apart right now, what happens when you hold the battery in it with one hand, boot it up, and press the volume button contacts manually? If they buttons themselves do nothing, then it must be that they lost their connection somewhere, you'd have to trace the wires and figure out where they're not connected. If they do work, then the volume rocker was just misaligned.
As for the speaker, it has to be that it is not contacting the two little contacts correctly. Look at the speaker and make sure it is sitting correctly in the housing, and look ffor any obstructions near the vibrator motor.
No i can't press down on the volume button ever since i opened it it hasn't fit back right. Doesn't make a click sound
and what contacts on the speaker should i be looking for? are they under the speaker itself? should i remove the speaker? Theres no destruction on the vibrator its looks though like its sitting kinda tight between that camera flash being there..the metal spinning thing on the end of it can spin 360 so nothing its preventing it from moving.
I also can use my headset and the sound and call works fine besides the going to the black screen and not responding. i also noticed my camera does not load up either. but that could probably be solved with a clean install of gingerbread nand rom

HD2's innards: Attempted vibration motor fix gone horribly wrong.. HELP!

I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!
Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.
Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!
You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.
Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.
Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!
I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

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