I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.
Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....
Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.
Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.
When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).
FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!
Related
Hi,
I am still trying to resolve an on going screen problem.:-((
When I have my Universal opened up on my desk the volume and phone dialogs and occasionally the anolog/digital clock dialog keep on appearing and disappearing.
Some times it hardly happens at all and other times it is contant, to the point that the touchscreen won't respond to other input.
When in PDA mode I get a similar situation from the same edge of the screen, but this time the scroll bars go mad.
Previous posts here have suggested either grit in the edge of the screen or dirty contacts. I have pulled the screen apart and cleaned all the contacts as well as cleaned the edge of the screen and the case around the 'affected' area.
Since the problem seems to be down to one particular area of the screen - is it more likely to be pressure from the case or a connection issue.
I'm inclined to think it is pressure from the case, but don't know much about how the touch screen matrix works.
Any help with this would be appreciated - at the moment the screen problems are rending the device pretty unusable.
Surely someone here mush have some ideas, this is driving me mad.
Currently running with the back of the screen off and prodding and pocking at connections to see if it makes any difference, but doesn't seem to.
Next stop is to strip down the base to see if there are any issues with the connection of the screen cable on the main board.
The frustrating thing is that the problem seem to appear and disappear - sometimes it if fine and then other times the dialogs are appearing.
When I have the dialogs appearing I try opening and flipping the phone back and forth and sometimes it goes back to normal but more often than not it doesn't.
The first thing that I want to establish is what is likely to be causing the icon area screen to appear as though it is being pressed?
Cheers,
Julian
I'm definitely no hardware expert but my Universal showed a similar behaviour a few days ago and I'm quite sure it has something to do with the case and/or the cable(s) between the screen part and the main body of the device.
In my case, only a small part of the touchscreen (lower left corner) remains working and the speaker on the display side also refused to work anymore. I've applied some pressure on the edges of the display and the speaker "slowly" began to work again... and so the touchscreen did.
Good luck :?
.ox
Is your phone now working properly?
I have had the screen apart, but do major change. Next stop strip the whole thing down.
I'm starting to suspect the cable, but cannot see any obvious problem with it.
Yes, currently my phone works perfectly.
Did you check the connectors "inside" the display part of the phone (e.g. receiver, ...)?
.ox
Hi,
I have opened up the back of the screen and checked the connections of the ribon cable to either side of the screen and also checked the connection of the actual screen to the circuit board.
It would be useful to know a bit more about how the touch screen side of things work bearing in mind that only one corner of the touch screen is being affected.
I'm going to try to strip down the whole phone and check the connections on both ends of the cable between the screen and the main unit to see if that makes any difference.
Well, I have stripped down the phone and cleaned the connections on both ends of the cable between the screen and the main board and at first for a day or so the problem appeared to have gone away, but now it is back.
I am starting to suspect that it is a problem with the actual cable, possibly a loose connection in the wires - the connectors appear OK and problem appears and disappears when the screen is flipped.
I read here that you cannot buy the cables seperately - is this true?
The next option is to take the cable out and either check all the connections and repair it, however it is a random fault so difficult the trace.
The other option I have considered is to bind the cable tightly with PTFE pumbers tape which is thin enough not to cause any problems, the PTFE will bit will help when flipping the screen and binding it might (hopefully) ensure any loose connections don't remain loose.
Any other ideas from here?
Really need help here,
My hermes suddenly decided that visuals are no longer needed.
That means the screens stays off all the time (yes even in bootloader mode).
It works, receive calls and flashes roms but in no situation can I see anything on the screen (pitch black screen).
I've got no warranty so I took it apart and checked each cable and connector - no issues were seen. I tried changing SPL-s, RUU, Roms all worked but left my tytn with that black screen.
Did anyone see this happen or has any advice?
This sucks big time :-(
No one? Oh man, I guess it's dead then :-(
Last bump before giving up and throwing it away - please?
send it to me if your gonna throw it away : - 0
I've given up on mine as well. It has white screen though. Where do I dump this thing?
If it is out of warrenty, I would take it apart as is sounds like the hardware, check the connections to the LCD. Does the backlight still work, or if you put it in strong sunlight, can you see the LCD working?
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
what are you guys willing to sell your pdas for? Mine fell in a puddle and i need one for parts. The white screen might be fixable the first couple of times but then it dies off for good, the black screen i've never heard of.
So if you want to sell for a reasonably cheap price let me know, i can buy a new keypad online for $50. So around there would be nice!
i.a.wright said:
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tested this on mine and actually got some results.
mines the opposite though, it will NOT work with any pressure. I left all the screws loose for that board under the buttons, and left the LCD assemble screws out on that end and it works, But if I press the keys it whites out again and won't come back until I repeat the dis-assemble/re-assemble
I had a similar problem but this was after someone dropped mine on the floor. The screen would just be white screen, while everything worked. If I pressed the bottom right of the phone it would sometimes come on and stay on for a little while but would eventually always go to white screen.
I did manage to use the phone but had use a program called Net Control which allowed me to control the phone over WIFI with the phone screen shown on the PC. Got the phone replaced in the end by the people who dropped it.
i got the flex cable and my phone still has the white screen problem....wtf///
Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.
Campo said:
Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN
keys are stuck
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).
hpn said:
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks !
n0t said:
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try this becouse during the last 4 days sometimes the buttons work so.... thanks!
Ok, nothing work.
I've also tried to open the device but looking behind the buttons pad fortunally/unfortunally there isn't an evident hardware problem.
The only solution is to replace the pad.
Hi to all.
I have had buttons not working on my trinity for some time. was tempted to send it back for repair but i did not want to be without my phone and did not want to have to stick the old wm5 rom back on!!
I took my trinity apart too see if i could see anything wrong. and got it down to the keypad. one thing i did notice is that there was a lot of dust. also around the small disks that provide the buttons, there are 3 small holes in the sealing sheet. seems that the construction of the switch array is circuit board at the bottom, with small tin disks on top, all held in place with a thin plastic sheet.
The tin disks 'pop' inside out when you press the buttons, making the contact for the switch. On the old nokia phones, these disks got deformed and this would make the button work but with no click. I had a click but no button operation, and with the holes, and all the dust i found, i figured that it must be dusty contacts.
so here is how i managed to fix my buttons for free:
1, strip the phone to get to the keyboard circuit (i used this link clicky)
2, clean all the dust from the buttons
3, start to tease the plastic film from the front of the board (i used a sharp knife but mind your fingers and take care not to damage the board)
4, once one corner is up you should be able to slowly pull the film up (take care not to damage the disks as the plastic comes up but make sure the disks stay on the plastic sheet)
5, dont pull the sheet totally off otherwise you will have a job getting it all to line up after.
6, get some alcohol or head cleaning fluid on a cotton bud and clean all the gold contacts, as well as the insides of the discs.
7, slowly rub the plastic film to put it back where it came from, taking care to get the disks in the center of the gold contacts.
8, rebuild and test
All being well you should have working buttons again!!! It seems the design of the buttons lets dust inside the workings.
Hope this helps someone with clicking buttons but no action!!!
I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!
Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.
Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!
You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.
Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.
Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!
I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.