Database Users

Blank white screen....not the normal problem...

I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.

Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?

shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.

Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....

Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.

Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.

shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike

mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.

When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).

FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!

Wing sliding keyboard problem

hey i was just wondering if someone could help me out here, ive searched around with no luck. I replaced my wing's housing because my old one was all scratched everything works fine but i have one problem when i slide out the keyboard the screen doesnt go to landscape mode and i have no idea whats broke checked all the cables and stuff and its all pluged in, the keyboard works just wont rotate the screen thanks

You can try a hard reset, which should cure any software problems.... but if you were messing with the phone and taking it apart in order to replace the housing ... it sounds like a hardware issue.

its defenitely hardware related just not sure what it could be not sure where the thing that operates the screen and turns it when the slide is open would even be

I had the same problem. Their is a little round magnet in the front housing that you forgot to swap from the old case. Its hard to notice but its in one of the corners in the screen side housing. its under the OK button, under the circuit board. on the actual sliding plastic housing. you'll see a small round recces thats where the magnet goes.

the wing has a Prossesser Of 200Mhz, so what that means is its pretty slow.. just uninstall unused programs and End programs that your not using. Its also possible that your firmware might not Support Sliding.

[Found a Fix] U and O buttons need pressing harder than normal

ATT: I searched a bit more and found this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=319315&page=2
Thanks very much to mikechannon once again.
Hi, seems I'm asking for a bit of help lately
Anyway on my qwerty keypad the letters U and O have to be pressed harder than all the others otherwise they won't register, I mean hard enough to slow down my typing quite a bit. I have pulled the phone apart many times and played with the keyboard position, put bits of paper in between the membrane and pop buttons etc.
When I first opened it up I noticed that the keyboard PCB was sitting above the hook looking piece of plastic holding it down and the board had been ever so slightly warped from this, I have since rectified this but the keys still need pressing hard.
Any ideas? Anyone with a similar problem?
EDIT: This is the Hermes I got from ebay second hand BTW.

aaron11193 said:
ATT: I searched a bit more and found this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=319315&page=2
Thanks very much to mikechannon once again.
Hi, seems I'm asking for a bit of help lately
Anyway on my qwerty keypad the letters U and O have to be pressed harder than all the others otherwise they won't register, I mean hard enough to slow down my typing quite a bit. I have pulled the phone apart many times and played with the keyboard position, put bits of paper in between the membrane and pop buttons etc.
When I first opened it up I noticed that the keyboard PCB was sitting above the hook looking piece of plastic holding it down and the board had been ever so slightly warped from this, I have since rectified this but the keys still need pressing hard.
Any ideas? Anyone with a similar problem?
EDIT: This is the Hermes I got from ebay second hand BTW.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brave man, not the easiest thing to do. Pleased you achieved success
Mike

[Q] Keyboard Malfunction...

Hi Guys,
so I noticed over time that a couple keys weren't working on my dream's keyboard sometimes, and it became progressively worse up to the point where said keys stopped working altogether. The Affected keys are: 1, 2, W, S, Z, Left ALT, Volume Up. If you have a look at your keyboard, you will notice they are in a line almost, which led me to think there was a problem on the Keyboard PCB, or it's ribbon connector to the Motherboard.
SO...I bought one of these Ebay PCB replacements: http://cgi.ebay.com/T-MOBILE-G1-HTC-DREAM-KEYBOARD-MEMBRANE-KEYPAD-PCB-FIX-/120690721519?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item1c19ba42ef and just fitted today but, and to my disappointment and dismay, the exact same keys still do not work
I have cleaned the internals using compressed air quite thoroughly and still not winning.
Any ideas as to what the real problem is here? Maybe its the motherboard itself?
THANKS!

I have a problem with my right alt and . Key as well, hope we can solve this
Sent from my Plain Biff Dream using XDA App

It is not particularly clear what that item is. Is it a complete keyboard? PCB? Just the rubber membrane?
The key is to CLEAN the thing. 99.9% of keyboard problems are because there is dirt somewhere. Rubbing alcohol and a mild abrasive (like a pink rubber pencil eraser) are very useful for cleaning.

Its everything you see in the picture, keyboard pcb (which has the actual buttons which are pressed when you press the plastic button above, and the volume buttons), with ribbon cables, metal part that sits behind the keyboard - (it is not a replacement for the buttons on the rubber strip which overlays the keyboards hardware)
I stripped the phone completely and replaced the entire keyboard pcb, and still the same issue... i don't understand how cleaning would have made a difference on a brand new item... where else do you recommend i clean?

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you

thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.

did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?

I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem

12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!

bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)

12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!

Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards

maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.

Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks

maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.