Database Users

Blank white screen....not the normal problem...

I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.

Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?

shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.

Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....

Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.

Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.

shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike

mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.

When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).

FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!

Wizard - 8125 Keyboard Repair

The "a" on my keyboard was getting flakey. It took a couple times of hitting it to work, and I was really getting annoyed. Also after almost 2 years of using this HTC (Branded the 8125) by Cingular, I was itching to disassemble it.
I could not find any information on repairing the keyboard/key cleaning.
There is a manual for this in the ftp space should anyone need. It is not specifically for the Wizard. You have to prise the lower housing off in a similar fashion. The rest of the disassembly is easy enough. Soon, you will have the 'middle' section of the phone in your hands, with only the keyboard and its flex connector attached.
Look carefully for screws, tabs, clips, anything that is holding the keyboard into the piece. You won't find one. Look even closer, and you still won't. I had my glasses off (contacts out) and focus at about 2" and still didn't see a damn thing holding the keyboard assembly into the part.
That is because there isn't anything.
I apologise for not taking pictures, it was together before I remembered. But here is the issue:
If you look at the bottom of the panel that holds the assembly, where the softkey buttons are, there are slots that allow you to see the layers of the keyboard. Using a very fine x-acto blade or knife, slide just under the black layer, and pry up. The keys and their laminated components are glued down to the flexible board that has the key contacts. The 'domed' part of the contacts is part of the key layer, and will be the bottom. A bit of cleaning and the contacts were again happy and shiny.
Make sure that when you put the key layer back down that it is centered properly. Make sure that the soft keys at the top are not bound, or they will stick up and catch the slider.
Oh, and the kicker? None of the other disassembly was needed, since there was nothing inside the phone to release the keyboard. But what the Hell, it needed a good cleaning anyway.
One more thing, the best place to do this is NOT in a hotel room with almost no tools. That makes it far more challenging.

Hardware buttons doesn't work anymore on my Trinity.

Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.

Campo said:
Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN

keys are stuck
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).

hpn said:
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks !

n0t said:
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try this becouse during the last 4 days sometimes the buttons work so.... thanks!

Ok, nothing work.
I've also tried to open the device but looking behind the buttons pad fortunally/unfortunally there isn't an evident hardware problem.
The only solution is to replace the pad.

Hi to all.
I have had buttons not working on my trinity for some time. was tempted to send it back for repair but i did not want to be without my phone and did not want to have to stick the old wm5 rom back on!!
I took my trinity apart too see if i could see anything wrong. and got it down to the keypad. one thing i did notice is that there was a lot of dust. also around the small disks that provide the buttons, there are 3 small holes in the sealing sheet. seems that the construction of the switch array is circuit board at the bottom, with small tin disks on top, all held in place with a thin plastic sheet.
The tin disks 'pop' inside out when you press the buttons, making the contact for the switch. On the old nokia phones, these disks got deformed and this would make the button work but with no click. I had a click but no button operation, and with the holes, and all the dust i found, i figured that it must be dusty contacts.
so here is how i managed to fix my buttons for free:
1, strip the phone to get to the keyboard circuit (i used this link clicky)
2, clean all the dust from the buttons
3, start to tease the plastic film from the front of the board (i used a sharp knife but mind your fingers and take care not to damage the board)
4, once one corner is up you should be able to slowly pull the film up (take care not to damage the disks as the plastic comes up but make sure the disks stay on the plastic sheet)
5, dont pull the sheet totally off otherwise you will have a job getting it all to line up after.
6, get some alcohol or head cleaning fluid on a cotton bud and clean all the gold contacts, as well as the insides of the discs.
7, slowly rub the plastic film to put it back where it came from, taking care to get the disks in the center of the gold contacts.
8, rebuild and test
All being well you should have working buttons again!!! It seems the design of the buttons lets dust inside the workings.
Hope this helps someone with clicking buttons but no action!!!

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you

thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.

did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?

I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem

12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!

bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)

12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!

Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards

maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.

Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks

maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

[NST] Button broke :(

Just found out that the upper left button on my NST (1st gen) doesn't work anymore. Isn't a major issue for anything except for navigating the menus NookManager so far. Anyone else run into dead buttons on old NSTs? And I know this is a super-long shot but anyone have luck fixing one?

You can try. The NST is easy to take apart. It's just the screw under the power button then slide.
The PCB comes out with a T-6 driver (opinions vary, my T-5 is a bit loose).
After the PCB is removed see if the switch still clicks or if there is some problem with the front plate of the NST
Unfortunately the button is just a collapsible dome switch under a patch of rubber.
You could try removing it on one side, cleaning under it with a swab of isopropyl then gluing down the edge.
Good luck!