The "a" on my keyboard was getting flakey. It took a couple times of hitting it to work, and I was really getting annoyed. Also after almost 2 years of using this HTC (Branded the 8125) by Cingular, I was itching to disassemble it.
I could not find any information on repairing the keyboard/key cleaning.
There is a manual for this in the ftp space should anyone need. It is not specifically for the Wizard. You have to prise the lower housing off in a similar fashion. The rest of the disassembly is easy enough. Soon, you will have the 'middle' section of the phone in your hands, with only the keyboard and its flex connector attached.
Look carefully for screws, tabs, clips, anything that is holding the keyboard into the piece. You won't find one. Look even closer, and you still won't. I had my glasses off (contacts out) and focus at about 2" and still didn't see a damn thing holding the keyboard assembly into the part.
That is because there isn't anything.
I apologise for not taking pictures, it was together before I remembered. But here is the issue:
If you look at the bottom of the panel that holds the assembly, where the softkey buttons are, there are slots that allow you to see the layers of the keyboard. Using a very fine x-acto blade or knife, slide just under the black layer, and pry up. The keys and their laminated components are glued down to the flexible board that has the key contacts. The 'domed' part of the contacts is part of the key layer, and will be the bottom. A bit of cleaning and the contacts were again happy and shiny.
Make sure that when you put the key layer back down that it is centered properly. Make sure that the soft keys at the top are not bound, or they will stick up and catch the slider.
Oh, and the kicker? None of the other disassembly was needed, since there was nothing inside the phone to release the keyboard. But what the Hell, it needed a good cleaning anyway.
One more thing, the best place to do this is NOT in a hotel room with almost no tools. That makes it far more challenging.
Related
Hi!
Can anyone help me with recommendations how to remove back cover from my XDA I? I tryed to do that, but unsuccessfully . I don't want to damage this device, so I decidied to ask some advice.
Xda I case open
Just use a slot screwdriver for the top two slot screws. Then T6 for bottom two. Then unit held screen face-down ; use a plastic lolly stick with sharpend flat edge to work between front and back case. It`s best to start at the bottom right edge, near the hard reset hole.
Using a downward push action, plus, practice the case should just pop apart. Work the stick around the bottom, forcefully. Things should just workout o.k. from there.
Remove the void sticker from screw using tweezers. With care it will remain in tact, and can be replaced.
Remember to be forcefull
anyone have some more details to get into the xda ( i amtrying to replace the LCD) pictures/instructions what ever i can get will be greatly appreciated
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
cruisin-thru said:
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks bud... well i dont want to mess with the digitiser if it is a pain the spare i am getting is having a prob wih sound so i will just go ahead and replace both instead of trying to seperate them... will keep u posted as soon as the other one arrives...
if anyone has more comments plz feel free to add the more the merrier and the chances of a screw up are reduced.
i will also try take pictures along the way so that someone else gains.
Broken XDA
Hi all,
can anyone help me fix my xda. A couple of weeks ago a bit of the headphone plug broke inside the connector. In an attempt to clear it I opened up the XDA. But now it doesn't power on after I've replaced the cover.
Any pointers would be much appreciated
Before you open your phone you should push the unscrewed top half of the stylus in the hole bottom right of your xda, this disconnects the battery, you need to check the flat shiny connecters on the edge of the board make sure thay havent been pulled out, the power from batter is on 2 contact pads inside rear of case so I dont think that is the problem. You could try using the stylus as mentioned as it may need switching back on.
hello to everybody!
i got my xda trion 2 weeks ago. after one week, it was impossible to bring the stylus into the xda. so i got a new one.
after again one week, the stylus wont come out of the trion.
someone else prob's with the stylus?
greetings
karl
+ 1, probleme like a wizard too
same ting happened with my TyTN today...
+1 with one week old tytn
Same here...
First I couldn't get it out / then I couldn't get it in / then it would simply slide in-and-out freely to the point that only gravity was holding it in place (sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is what happened).
Had to have mine replaced. I've heard this issue has been around since the Wizard...
I really hope I don't have the same problem on TyTn #2!!!
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
andmjones said:
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here TyTN 1 week old.
same here,
think I'll swap mine over for a new one.....
raptorian said:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here in 5 days
happend with me after 2 weeks. I've been struggling for a week, and now it's workng again! Don't know how long it will last. I hope it won't brake down, I bought Hermes thrue internetshop. Always sick to return things.
I carry something like this, and only use the tytn stylus in emergencies. I'm hoping this will reduce wear.
Same here - less than 2 weeks.
:shock:
Same here 5 days, luckley I had a replacment on order for BT problems recived that today lets see how this one goes.
me 2
my TYTN's stylus wouldn't stay in the hole.
i sent my tytn to be replaced (due to BT problems and screen alignment)
and i hope i t won't happen again.
when i put the tytn in the box to be sent so the stylus stopped falling :? )
that is odd
My stylus is a little difficult to remove at times, so I had a look down inside the stylus hole and it appears that there are three of those little pink rubber squares protruding from the side and a dark rubber 'socket' at the end to grip the tip when it's fully inserted. The pink squares are obviously there to provide a little more grip along the length of the stylus, but my guess is that even without them the 'socket' at the end would hold the stylus in place. I imagine that over time the pink rubber will either soften up or disintegrate entirely with the friction.
Solution stylus problem
I had the same problem with my stylus, my solution is take a Poster Buddy Brand name Pritt it is so called here in Holland you can place posters and photo's with it on wals, doors etc. looks like white rubber glue, think I see it in the UK with the name Sticky here you can buy it with photostores and bookstores etc. Take a small piece of it turn it between your vingers to a small ball and put it in the stylus hole after that push it to the end with your stylus.
After I do this I have no further problem with the stylus it works great.
Same issue here... the 2nd day I had it a small transparent square rubber went out of the stylus hole. Now i can put it in and out without problems...
Loose/Jammed Stylus
I'm afraid sending device back for replacement/repair for the stylus problem and loose locking keyboard may only be a temporary fix. Having had my device dismantled I can see exactly what the problesms are with both stylus and keyboard.
For the stylus there is a small block of clear plastic designed to create a friction lock to stop it falling out. There is luckily another small plastic spring lock at the far end so if the stylus is fully in it should click in and not drop out even without the plastic block. The problem is that the plastic block is not held firmly in its slot and as it gets loose creates far too much friction against the stylus which can then drag it right out.
The loose keyboards are due to the metal runners (that you see on back of keyboard partially springing apart (breaking tiny micro welds) at the ends where they lock (or not!) open and closed. These runners if they have sprung open like this will never lock firmly again unless you perform a bit of DIY.
I have performed small operations to fix both these problems and my Keyboard now locks very firmly both open and closed. The stylus issue is dealt with internally with a felt runner at a specific location. BEWARE of course performing these operations will invalidate your warranty. I can be much more specific for anyone who wishes to contact me directly particularly with the keyboard issue which requires quite a chore in dismantling the device - though I can now perform this in half an hour start to finish (Not something I'm proud of with a new device, but I had to workout just how to do the fixes!! )
Actually otherwise I think TYTN is great - superb in fact which is why I did not send it back for repair - couldn't bear to be without it!.
PS Finger around the screen method works every time for me forget all that align screen caper.
Mike
@mikechannon: Do you have high quality pictures of disassembled device where we can see the chipset references? we need to gather information on the hardware used inside the Hermes...
Hey anyone already opened up their HD2? I need to open mine since my back button got stuck while my baby girl tried to press too hard on it. Now the back button feels like it's not presing at all compared to the other buttons.
i also have a spare housing that I am thinking of putting in.
Anyone can point me to the right direction?
Thanks
i've had the back off mine.
first search youtube for leo disassembly and you'll find an htc disassembly video: "leo Ds" (and another "leo As" for reassembly). they are somewhat daunting, but do not despair!
mine came back from a htc warranty service with a fingerprint on the inside of the lens glass and i couldn't be bothered sending it back again for cleaning so i did it myself. cracking the case isn't all that easy, or wasn't for me.
after you remove the 4 screws (get the void sticker and moisture indicator out with a pin), you still have to unclip the back from the chassis. WHY do electronics manufacturers design them like that??! in the video the tech uses a plastic hooked tool which i do not possess so i had to rely on my fingernails -- which i nearly pulled out! i tried for a good 15 minutes before it finally separated (with me sweating all the way that i was going to damage the LCD with the force i was having to apply). but it all finished happily in the end.
good luck with yours!
Not sure if it's worth it.
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
.
Assuming u broke the keypad (just like me, but mine is right in the middle) at about the 6th minute of the disassembly video, they'll show u where u'd be replacing the keypad.
Removing the 'lcm and follow the indicator' isnt as simple as it look. you'd find the glue to be really tough. Putting it in an oven, sure, it'd be hot to the touch, and let it cool down a bit it'd be hard again. Hairdryer? Still too hot. Gloves?u'll lose touch sesitivity. So what i did was use a small blade/box cutter and cut which ever visible glue... and assembling, i had to replace all the double sided tape with some cheap ones...weak ones. Could be a good thing.. or a bad thing. Good, cos i know i dont have to wrestle with some really tough glue..in case i ruined my lcd again.... bad.. cos its..not that secure, i rmember that i nearly ripped it open unintentionally!
Neway replacing my digitizer+lcd took about 3 hours...had a couple of breaks, and spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr
Anyway, Best of luck.. .now to find a replacement keypad that cost less than 5usd..hehe
dsx2b said:
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr5usd..hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a good tip here is to work with the phone in a large tupperware box so that if something drops out it can't go anywhere.
note to the OP: i've read several posts where people damaged the ribbon cable connecting the bottom buttons to the mainboard so be careful. it looks very delicate.
Having just opened mine up several times recently I can offer a couple of tips.
1. Unscrew the four screws - they are T5 torx size.
2. Use thin stiff plastic pieces (I found the plastic case that nails are sold in to be the right stiffness and thickness). Cut some up and push them between the case and the phone works so that they hold each of the locking tabs out in turn. I used five or six bits to do this. Three on the vol control side, two at the top and one on the top area of the other side.
3. Then pushing out at the top where the battery would sit while prying with finger nails outward on the long vol control side you can work each of the locking tabs out so the plastic bits hold them unlocked. Do this along that side, across the top and down the other side working each one a little bit as you go and repeat.
4. This should allow the top edge to come out allowing you to lift is out and "up" so that the button end slides out.
This worked very well for me..several times.
The display is held to the electronics portion by double sided tape and yes it is very strong. But you can soften the adhesion significantly using a heat gun. But you must be careful to heat the whole area to avoid thermal differences cracking the screen. The heat will loosen the tapes grip allowing you to pry the screen away from the electronics side.
Note that the screen is made up of the LCD covered by the glued on digitizer and they are connected with a single ribbon cable on the lower right hand side (I think from memory). This means the screen has to lift off with a hinge action. Lifting along the opposite long edge to the ribbon cable, rather than lift from the top or bottom.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I tried to open mine and followeed the video, be careful as the video makes it look much easier than what it really is, I ended up ruining my device, just take your time and do it slowly.
Thanks guys! Gonna try it over the weekend. Worst case is that I break my case or put some cosmetic damage. I have a spare case though hehe.
The problem about the key is the back button feels stuck.... the other buttons are snappy and have a tactile sort of feel, where as the back button doesn't have the same feel. looks like it was pressed to hard and never popped back up...
just annoying when i've been very careful with the phone.
ok looks like i wouldn't have to open my phone.... i tried to but then there's a warranty void sticker, so I just called tmobile and explained about the back key being stuck.... and they're sending me a replacement.
i'm gonna lose my invisible shield full body though... but better than risking breaking my phone....
Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!
The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.
Hi Guys,
so I noticed over time that a couple keys weren't working on my dream's keyboard sometimes, and it became progressively worse up to the point where said keys stopped working altogether. The Affected keys are: 1, 2, W, S, Z, Left ALT, Volume Up. If you have a look at your keyboard, you will notice they are in a line almost, which led me to think there was a problem on the Keyboard PCB, or it's ribbon connector to the Motherboard.
SO...I bought one of these Ebay PCB replacements: http://cgi.ebay.com/T-MOBILE-G1-HTC-DREAM-KEYBOARD-MEMBRANE-KEYPAD-PCB-FIX-/120690721519?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item1c19ba42ef and just fitted today but, and to my disappointment and dismay, the exact same keys still do not work
I have cleaned the internals using compressed air quite thoroughly and still not winning.
Any ideas as to what the real problem is here? Maybe its the motherboard itself?
THANKS!
I have a problem with my right alt and . Key as well, hope we can solve this
Sent from my Plain Biff Dream using XDA App
It is not particularly clear what that item is. Is it a complete keyboard? PCB? Just the rubber membrane?
The key is to CLEAN the thing. 99.9% of keyboard problems are because there is dirt somewhere. Rubbing alcohol and a mild abrasive (like a pink rubber pencil eraser) are very useful for cleaning.
Its everything you see in the picture, keyboard pcb (which has the actual buttons which are pressed when you press the plastic button above, and the volume buttons), with ribbon cables, metal part that sits behind the keyboard - (it is not a replacement for the buttons on the rubber strip which overlays the keyboards hardware)
I stripped the phone completely and replaced the entire keyboard pcb, and still the same issue... i don't understand how cleaning would have made a difference on a brand new item... where else do you recommend i clean?