Database Users

HOWTO: Replace digitizer

I'm writing this up because someone else might like to benefit from my experiences with doing this repair.
Get your tools together: Multimeter, Torx T5, jeweler's Phillips (size 00), 15w soldering pencil, a bit of flux, some thin (I used 0.38mm 63/57% tin/lead) solder, and a clean place to work. You may want to grab a small ice cube tray or something similar with compartments to toss the screws in so you remember where they go. I highly suggest you get Kapton (3M) tape but you could use cellophane tape or a cut piece of packing tape. I had Kapton on hand so that's what I went with. You also need to either make sure the seller provides the double-stick tape gasket that binds the digitizer to the LCD shield or that you managed to salvage the one that secured the old digitizer. I was lucky and it came off the glass and stayed on the metal.
First of all, I've always had horrible problems with alignment with my Vario. The top of the screen was usually fine but the bottom would start drifting up. Cleaning the crap out of the edges under the bezel with a business card or doing the thumb rub was fine for that particular session but when I would sleep it and put it in my pocket, it was screwed up the next time. Dropping my Vario on the floor has managed to create a triangular dead zone that peaks at 1/2" from the bottom center and degrades towards the bottom left and right corners.
I bought a digitizer on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong. It arrived about two weeks later and came with a T8 Torx and a case cracking tool. The T8 was thrown aside because it's obviously the wrong tool so I used my T5 and cracked the case. I won't get into disassembly/reassembly because that isn't the object of this and you can google the directions. Suffice it to say, when you reassemble the back half, ensure the volume slider on the case isn't going to snap the tab off of the volume switch on the board like I did the last time I disassembled it.
A note on this particular digitizer - It's NOT a HTC brand part. It's a generic part and doesn't have the glossy top sheet. I paid $20 shipped and for $20 it ain't bad. There is slightly less light transmitted and it's harder to read outdoors in direct sun but no big deal - it hasn't had to be realigned yet.
Now that you've removed the back cover, lifted out the board, unscrewed the LCD slider from the front cover, disassembled the two halves of the LCD slider, removed the screws that secure the top and bottom button pads to the LCD top frame and lifted out the LCD/button assembly and it's sitting in front of you - lets get to work!
First of all, you need to commit to this before you start making irreversible changes. If you've never soldered before, put this thing back together or find someone who has. You don't need a SMT station or the ability to solder 0605 components but since you're soldering on the plastic ribbon carrier, you need to be sure of your skills in order to not trash the LCD ribbon.
Now that you're ready to do this, examine the LCD panel and you will see that the digitizer is attached to the frame of the LCD panel. Use thin blade like a single edged razor to slide between the glass panel and the metal case and start lifting up the glass panel. If you're lucky, it'll want to stick to the metal case. As you lift the glass, poke in some tooth picks or similar to keep the glass from seating again. Start at a corner and work around going SLOWLY. I got to the bottom, rushed, and smashed the old part causing glass dust to go everywhere!. Try to avoid that.
Now that the old panel is off, cut the ribbon cable going from the base of the digitizer to the back of the LCD. Just slice it in half to get the old part out of the way.
At this point, align the new digitizer at the top of the frame first and then gently press it down. Ensure that ONLY the back's protective plastic sheet has been removed to avoid smudges and scratches. Now place the unit face down on something like a mousepad or similar surface.
There is a piece of Kapton tape across the digitizer ribbon and the backlight ribbon. Peel from the side with the digitizer FIRST! I started pulling from the backlight cable side and damn near pulled the backlight ribbon off!
GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY peel the old ribbon cable from the digitizer DOWN and ensure that it isn't ripping the pads away from the LCD cable. There may be a better way to do this but this method worked for me, I grabbed a corner with needle nose pliers and slowly pulled at a 45 degree angle. You want to pull the top which is the side soldered to the ribbon, not the bottom, which you cut earlier.
Plug that soldering pencil in, make sure it's set to 15w.
Now, with my el-cheapo digitizer, the ribbon from the front was slightly misaligned and I had to angle it over to the right. Otherwise if I went straight up it would've been misaligned about 2mm to the left. Ensure you have the traces parallel and directly on top of the existing ones and tape the bottom of the cable so it stays put. Another thing with my digitizer was the end required trimming. This made it easy to position when I had it bent back.
Now that the bottom is aligned and you don't have to mess with it, bend the cable back so that the copper traces are now facing up. The bend should be at the bottom 3rd of the exposed traces on the LCD cable. Make a nice sharp fold on the cable. Swab on a little bit of flux to make things easier to manage. Grab a popsicle stick or similar to push the new ribbon to the LCD ribbon, get the solder ready, and try to keep the heat on very shortly. You should only need 3 seconds of heat to get a decent solder joint because there is almost zero copper to heat up. Ensure the first joint is good by a quick tug of the cable and do the next three. After they are done, test with the meter going across to ensure the joint is good and from one side to each neighbor to make sure you have no shorts. Do the next three and then cut the extra ribbon cable off leaving maybe 1/4". Grab your tape and put a nice big piece across the back of the LCD covering both ribbon cables just like it was.
Now, reassemble your phone, turn it on, align the screen, and you ought to be good to go.
I don't take any responsibility for anything you might do to screw up your phone. These were my steps to fix my phone and they may not work for you and your phone.
As an aside, the new matte screen doesn't accumulate 'face gunk' quite like the old glossy one did. Also, the sensitivity is down a tiny bit and it needs more finger pressure to use Slide2Unlock. The digitizer also gets Newtonian Rings (google it) whereas the OEM one didn't. Also, there is a faint hum from the backlight (?) when it's on now that I didn't notice before.
So far, so good... The alignment on the bottom right corner is about 1.25mm above where the stylus point is but that might just be a problem with the screen itself. The alignment has stayed rock steady since I aligned it yesterday morning.

How to replace the digitizer.

I cracked my aria screen pretty much right after I got it, Managed to get my hands on a new digitizer and replaced it. I found a quick walkthrough on Android forums. It helped but had a few points that could have been more succinct.
Posting here in case anyone needs.
Took me about an 1hr 30min the first time trying to figure it out on my own.
My additional comments are indicated by **.
I put some addendums to @Jcawesome's steps...
( http://androidforums.com/1211507-post42.html )
1. Remove backcover
2. Remove Battery, sim chip, and memory card
3. Unscrew the top two screws (meaning the end farthest from the memory card.)
4. Using a flat plastic wedge, (I used the one that came from my ebay order, it looks like the blue tool in this pic )
5. Carefully pull off the parts at the top being very cautious not to break anything. (Do not pull the circuit board out, only lift the end closest to the edge of the phone)
** there are two pieces to pull off....with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you) a larger yellow piece with an attached back speaker comes out towards you. a second piece pulls up (north as if on a map)... but becareful because there is a bunch of tape and tackiness all throughout this thing (literally I felt it was held together by tape). I actually pulled off the grill on front as well.
** the circuit board is kept attached near the top right. the element that is the power button snaps off. (there are two little dots just to the right of the speaker with what looks like blackish tape that connects to the circuit board... you can pop this off.
With that off, I could lift the circuit board about 30 degrees or so... I wasn't comfortable pulling it back any farther than that.
I did step 5 AFTER I got the screen off.
6. Using the flat plastic wedge again, push the wedge tool between the phone and the broken screen. (It will feel like you are breaking it but it is fine, it is held on by a sticky paste that will slowly give way)
** careful on this part... especially difficult depending on how your screen is cracked. but it is just a bunch of sticky tape that is keeping it attached.... I had to peel away the goo and connection near the top sensitive areas as my ear piece speaker came off with the goo.
7. Disconnect the connecter from the old digitizer to the new one and remove the old digitizer.
**I used a small little tweezer and sneaked it in underneath the circuit board to pull the digitizer connection out.... a little difficult to push back in, but just took some patience.
8. Being careful not to put fingerprints on any exposed surface of either the phone lcd or the replace screen, place the new digitizer in the exact spot of the old one.
** have some lint free microfiber cloth handy and perhaps some screen cleaner.... I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the lcd screen before laying the replacement digitizer back on.
I actually did step 9 before step 8.
9. Connect the connecter from the new digitizer to the board, be careful not to pull the circuit board out and do not scratch the board.
10. You may want to use some glue to hold the new screen on, hopefully this will not happen again. My phone still had enough of the sticky paste left to hold the new screen fine.
** I agree... the first time you replace it will be fine.... afterwards tho, I can see it running out of tackiness.....
11. Put the phone back together in reverse order.
12. Turn it one and everything should be working again.
** in a nut shell
1) take out two screws
2) detach two yellow shell pieces
3) unhook a latch that is the power button
4) pry off the screen
5) lift the circuit board approx 30 degrees.
6) detach digitizer connection from underneath using tweezer
7) replace digitizer connection, return circuit board flat
8)position digitizer and press down to adhere
9)replace two plastic yellow shell pieces
10) screw it back together
done.
let me know if you have any questions.=)
enjoy your "brand" new aria.

dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...

Sorry eortizr, If I made it seem easier than it was. I spent quite a while cleaning the lcd screen when I replaced the digitizer... I don't think it's possible to change the digitizer without getting fingerprints on it though. But with some diligence and working in a clean area, I was able to keep all dust and finger prints out of the final product.

My wife dropped hers. Cracked up pretty good but still functional. Think I might just go ahead and pay the $100 and have someone who does it for a living do it.
I can totally see me trying DIY concentrating real hard dripping sweat all over it and ruining the MB. LOL

Replaced the screen today. Half way in I thought I definitely bit off more than I could chew. I got it done though. A couple of things I learned:
The digitizer unplugs away from you or toward the screen with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you). I kept thinking i had to unplug it by pulling it north, toward the top of the phone.
I dropped and threw away both the front speaker and the very small rubber piece that covers the proximity sensor so... when I turned the phone on everything looked good, until I answered my phone. The screen went blank and I couldn't hear anything. I found the speaker and the proximity sensor cover and replaced them.
I would do it again, its worth saving $50 or so.
Thanks for the tutorial dreamflux.
I found the whole kit including the adhesive here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180643624141
This is the seller in case the sale ends and the link breaks: http://myworld.ebay.com/chinaphoneaccessories/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

I found a replacement digitizer from tmart dot com for $55, free shipping. Just search Aria on their site, you'll find it. Sorry, I can't seem to post links yet.
What was peculiar, was that it has only the HTC logo in the center, and no ATT logo. Looks nice and clean. They included plastic separator tools and torx drivers, though nothing in this phone uses torx. The site is a little shady, and while their headquartered in Hong Kong, it shipped from Brooklyn NY about 5 days after purchase, priority mail. The swap wasn't bad, but my only complaint is that the lights from the softkeys seem to shine up onto the screen, but you get used to it. It's probably because I didn't transfer the stickers over on the bottom of the digitizer.

Thanks for the directions ... I just replaced my digitizer. I had 2 major problems: 1) my power button doesn't work any longer (I'm going to take it apart and try to put it back together and see if that fixes it), and 2) you HAVE to use BLACK sticky stuff to seat the bottom of the digitizer - I used the clear stuff that came with the digitizer, and now I have tons of light bleeding into the LCD from the button backlights. I'm not sure what to do about the bleed ... I guess I'll have to tear it down again and put black stuff in ... damn.

That's the deal with that excess backlighting! I thought it was just a matter of the screen being misaligned. Terrible that I have to replace that black foam, it got shredded while I was dismantling the thing to replace the digitizer.

eortizr said:
dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its always suggested to work in a dust-free space but we all know that's virtually impossible.

I had a bit of fun with dust & fingerprints when replacing my LCD after getting my Aria, After a time or two of taking apart and being unsuccessful, I left it as is with one visible flake.

If you take a hot shower the steam in the air sticks to dust particles leaving no dust
Sent from my Liberty using XDA App

aria
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it

dust906 said:
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*Just to make sure I'm putting the electrical tape on correctly*
put the double sided tape on and then put the electrical tap (sticky side facing up) on top of the ds tape then apply the screen to the lcd

Thanks for the explanation dreamflux.. This, along with some youtube videos helped me out to change the digitizer, but patience is THE key...

Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.

Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.

brivette007 said:
Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you have any problems with the digitizer responsivenes or something like that? I'm need one and curious about the quality of the cheap digitizers in ebay.

so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??

jdmsohc22 said:
so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what I meant was the digitizer turns on, but it is just a dark lit screen, no visual anything going on.. If i call it from another phone it will ring, but when i swipe right to left to answer and press around where the answer button is it doesn't respond either, just rings and rings... anyways just wanted to elaborate a little more..
---------- Post added at 02:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 AM ----------
msailer said:
Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same thing is happening with me as well..

^^^^ Soooooo.....I got the same thing on my wife phone, the BLACK SCREEN. I did my homework and read and watched videos on how to replace the digitizer. I was in a steamy room with all my tools from work with pre-cut electrical and .005" double sticky tape. im a mechanical assembler. I did everything to the tee and was very carefull. i think i got a bunk one from china. I bought mine for $19 from china. It had at&t logo and everything. you get what you pay for? So I've got to pay now $50 for a replacement phone through ins. Not bad because before i made the claim i thought the replacement was $150. Anyways just a heads up. Now i got a phone of spare parts Whats cool is that i get to root her phone all over again. So if anyone here has had the black screen. let me know what happened next with your situation. Did you fix it? replaced it with another one? thanks

[Q] Wildfire Teardown Guide?

If there a teardown guide for the Wildfire? I'm planning on replacing the fascia to a black or white one
I googled it and I found the EVO and the Desire...
Thanks.

nicky041192 said:
If there a teardown guide for the Wildfire? I'm planning on replacing the fascia to a black or white one
I googled it and I found the EVO and the Desire...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely its pretty similar to the desire?

IcyWildfire said:
Surely its pretty similar to the desire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's what I was thinking but I'm not too sure...

I just did a screen replacement on a German Wildfire today, I used a desire guide briefly - but it was pretty simple. 8 screws and 3 ribbons in total isn't to bad for a full teardown.
Here's the brief:
1) remove back battery cover
2) remove battery, MicroSD, and SIM
3) remove 4 corner star screws
4) remove 2 philips screws from right hand rail (sim card side)
5) Unclip bottom bracket and remove
6) Unclip plastic back from both side rails and remove
7) Remove 2 philips screws from bottom right and top left of breadboard
8) Disconnect haptic feedback ribbon from bottom left by lifting the black lever and sliding out the ribbon (very narrow ribbon)
9) Disconnect screen and touch screen ribbons on right hand edge by lifting them up (they're snap-ons)
10) Lift volume board up from between main bread board and volume button
11) remove breadboard from front housing
12) Peel back the bottom ribbon from the back of the screen (it's glued on with light adhesive)
13) Lift up bottom corner of screen and remove screen from front housing
in the end you should have these pieces:
Front housing
Screen
Bread Board
Back Housing
Bottom Plastic Clip
Back cover
2 Small philips Screws (breadboard)
2 large philips screws (back housing right hand edge)
4 large star screws (back housing corners)
Sorry, I literally just finished this an hour ago. Hope this helps.

i tear-down my wildfire like SophT. my big problem is now, to put the new digitizer in the phone. the old was glued and now i didn't have any idea to fix the new in the phone. have anyone an idea ?!

i think i destroyed the new display. on both sides of the new one were a protective sheet. i removed both, the phone works perfectly, but there is no possibility to use the touchscreen. There are no inputs possible. Have I destroyed with the removal of the film, the new display?

w1st said:
i think i destroyed the new display. on both sides of the new one were a protective sheet. i removed both, the phone works perfectly, but there is no possibility to use the touchscreen. There are no inputs possible. Have I destroyed with the removal of the film, the new display?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm okay with this and I think it's hilarious.

hd2 screen replacement problem...tape issue?

i cracked my digitizer a while back, and ordered a replacement. i used double sided tape to install. the first digitizer worked great, except only the top 10% of the screen was not responsive (pretty much the width of the task bar) so i contacted the people i ordered the new screen from, and they just sent me a replacement. i installed the second digitizer, and this time none of the screen works.
i tried to make sure both times not to put the tape to wide so it doesn't overlap into the clear screen part, only the black, but could this be a tape issue? anyone else have trouble with installing where parts or entire screen didn't respond?
thanks for your help.

Are you sure you have the digitizer/lcd ribbon in all the way to the connector on the motherboard? When I first put everything back together when I changed a digitizer, touch didn't work at all for me initially. At first I thought I had a bad digitizer. Then I looked closely at the ribbon and connector, and there's some flaps that stick out to the side on the ribbon cable. Make sure you push the ribbon in until the flaps stop you from going any further.

The quest for a perfect HD2

Well actually I just want my HD2 back the way it was, recently it's been giving me issues with the screen. I couldn't unlock it, and it would periodically work when I put immense pressure on the Call End button, however, after about 2 months of doing so, it stopped working completely. Normally it would work after 10-20 tries of unlocking it, but i tried for days, I tried every possible thing, and I really didn't want to resort to replacing the digitizer. Being 13 and all, it wasn't going to be easy, but I knew if my parents found out I'd be dead meat (I wouldn't blame them for going ballistic, I have a weird tendency to break things).
So I'm going to attempt a screen replacement, I've already opened it up (having an eBay account with money in it is is really helpful in my situation) and it isn't looking good... I've already snapped the ribbon cable for the lower button panel... luckily I ordered one off of eBay just in case it was on its last legs anyway. I've bought the following things.
-HTC HD2 Digitizer + Screen + All tools (Socket Digitizer) - £24.55
-T4, T5, T6, T7, and T8 Screwdriver set - £1.55
-HTC HD2 Lower button panel - £2.51
-HTC HD2 Anti-Glare Screen Protectors 5x - £1.19
-*MAYBE* HTC HD2 Rear battery cover £2.00
At first I was going to replace the digitizer until I saw all the risks, like damaging the screen itself and all that, and having to apply adhesive and using low level heat etc. So I just bought the whole assembly. Before I took it apart, I checked if I had a Socket Digitizer or a Solder Digitizer... yep, without taking it apart. I did this by holding the Volume Down Button and the Red Power Button, and I held this until I saw the 3 colour screen. On the 4th line down, this should be written 0x50 or 0x30, if it is 0x50, then you have a Socket Digitizer, if it's 0x30. It is the solder type. As you can see, my Digitizer is socket type, but this didn't really matter as I am going to replace the screen as well. I found the information about 3 coloured screen from somewhere from XDA, I can't quite remember where though.
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All of those things should be coming soon (except for the button pad, it was from china) so hopefully, I will have a perfect HD2 soon, however, for the moment, I am stuck with a T-Mobile Vairy Touch 2... Oh and can someone give me suggestions for the smoothest JB ROM for the HD2?
I just hope my HD2 doesn't die in the process...
Thanks for reading, I'll update as I go along

Worth noting the bootloader screen doesn't show the digitizer version always correctly when HSPL is installed, not that matters as you have a complete assembly anyway.
Only tips I will give is take a lot of care & keep all screws etc safe so not lost when re-assembly time comes. Take care when handling device not to damage snap off the spring fingers that contact against the aerials as they easily bent & break off when repositioning if not careful.
If you have lifted the entire ribbon board with volume key be very careful not to damage it or loose the small push caps on face of volume key & refit volume key properly.
When your parts turn up you can test function prior to assembly by plugging screen assembly into mainboard & attaching new button ribbon to mainboard, then hold the battery onto the mainboard contacts & press the power button & see screen & digitizer is working ok.
Good adhesive tape is needed to mount & hold the lcd to centre chassis & adding bit more tape than standard in places such as corners is not a bad thing.
Rest comes down to taking care & a bit of luck. Hope works out for you .

I can confirm that the bootloader was correct as my digitizer is the socket type. Oh and, when I took everything apart to check it actually was a socket type, the volume keys fell off, I put everything back together (without the motherboard and stuff) I put the volume keys back and It didn't feel right. I couldn't press the Increase Volume Button, however when I screwed it in place it felt better -but still wobbly and it feels like it's going to fall of with a little bit of pressure.
Can I check the condition of the screen and digitizer without the lower button panel. The Screen + Digitizer should come on Monday, but since the button panel was from china, it will take 2-3 weeks. And If I put extra adhesive will the rear frame fit?
Thanks for the tips

Be careful with those volume keys as the volume board is easily damaged, you will have to review that area carefully when doing final assembly.
If you have not fully stripped it yet then do not remove the flex board completely or all the cables running down by the volume key.
You can just loosen the flex ribbon across the bottom where plugs to mainboard & about 2cm+ up. With button board disconnected along with other cables the board will lift enough to access the lcd connector on the back. Use a toothpick to work the locking bar up off the lcd connector then lcd ribbon can be worked out using a tool or toothpick.
Saves a lot of work & all the tape on volume board remains factory spec with small strips wrapped round the push caps & build label is mainly untouched.
All you are doing with extra adhesive strip is putting it in a few areas that originally did not have strip laid on it & would look beneficial to aid support as none of the tapes have the same bond strength as original. Don't build up more than one layer of tape or thickness will make digi too high from housing edge.
I personally use PU40 adhesive and add 5 rice grain spots down sides & in corners & make gaps in tape for it as really holds the assembly nicely like original build were as tapes tend to come loose & lift in corners or feel spongy.
I would wait till button board turns up as very easy to test with that & other options just result in a lot of hassle & possible mishaps.
Do take care when removing & inserting the lcd ribbon as the mainboard socket is easily damaged then you will have lcd display issues or no touch & probably no chance of rectifying it. Sometimes those chinese orders can be surprisingly quick ...

Thanks for the extremely helpful information!
I will take care in replacing the Digitizer, I don't know what type of adhesive to buy, do I need adhesive strips; would something like this work?
Thanks for all the info, and I really do hope it's quick...
I really don't want my parents to find out
EDIT:
Would this tape be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Frame-Repair-Sticker-LCD-Tape-for-HTC-HD2-T8585-Adhesive-/130999079729?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneFascias_JN&hash=item1e80275331

Yes the LCDFIX frame tape would do & has the advantage of having the pre shaped black foam adhesive pads that seal & bond the top & bottom edges of digitizer.
The actual tape they supply is not that high tack as I have used it before but ok & if used with a little pu40 silicone adhesive the final build is much better long term ...
Don't think your parents should be complaining seems you are saving money & being environmentally active in repairing rather than scrapping.
Digitizer is common issue on the HD2 so probably not your bad on this occasion
Hope works out well & another HD2 is revived ...

I will look into that PU40 Silicone Adhesive as I don't want to be constantly opening and closing my HD2 so I do want it to be long term.
I think if they find out they will think I'm going to break it. I've already broken the button board ribbon cable, but as I said before I already bought one. Yeah, I noticed the amount of people with the same issue was a lot. But I have only had this phone for like 5 months (got it on eBay for £60), thought it was a good deal... 5 months down I need to replace the screen + digitizer. Why did HTC make an amazing phone with such a common fault
Thanks, I hope I don't kill my precious HD2

Well they can last about 2 to 3 years before failure which not too bad. Digitizer of that screen size & minimal bezel bonding was quite unique when HD2 came out & bezel size is only just being beaten now.
Ribbons tend to get brittle with age due to heat cycles they endure from the device & the one on digitizer also flexes a little when device twisted about in your pocket or right hand side keys used hard which all helps the failure.
As you found out with button board tail they are easily torn ... Would not beat yourself up over that as most people do a lot worse when opening an HD2.
If you use pu40 or similar adhesive sealant only very little spots are required, really does hold the corners in nicely & gives a more firm untouched feeling finish to the build.
Do check everything & plan the reassembly before actually doing it so nothing missed or made awkward, also you want device assembled before sealant fully dry so can lay HD2 on its back with a thick card spacer cut slightly smaller than the digitizer then add a book or 2 as needed to help seat the new assembly on the adhesive tape & get glass sat at right height. Normally if centre chassis not bent from removing old lcd assembly the rebuild fits back rather easily & perfect.

Well this is awkward...
Ah yes... so i did fix my phone, it was working perfectly!
However I forgot the key thing about myself, I destroy everything. Yep! The same day I fixed it, I was outside and i dropped it face first and now it has stopped working completely. The poor thing fell from quite a distance.
To make matters worst, I somehow lost my SIM Card, which had a good amount of credit. Luckily I'd been saving up and I've bought a HTC Sensation. Damn I miss my HD2