Database Users

End to resistive/capacitive screen confusion...

Ok so people have been confused over the tech thats behind the Iphone/G1 capacitive dual touch screen, and all WinMo phones resisitive screens. So i thought i would do the great job of researching the tech behind both methods. 10 minutes later i came across this info on how both methods work, as well as a more expensive and even better method using acoustic mumbo jumbo. So for all you out there that are too lazy to do the diggin, heres the info that once and for all puts the rumors to bed about "...i heard its dual touch capable from so and so website..."
PLEASE READ>>>
The resistive system consists of a normal glass panel that is covered with a conductive and a resistive metallic layer. These two layers are held apart by spacers, and a scratch-resistant layer is placed on top of the whole setup. An electrical current runs through the two layers while the monitor is operational. When a user touches the screen, the two layers make contact in that exact spot. The change in the electrical field is noted and the coordinates of the point of contact are calculated by the computer. Once the coordinates are known, a special driver translates the touch into something that the operating system can understand, much as a computer mouse driver translates a mouse's movements into a click or a drag.
In the capacitive system, a layer that stores electrical charge is placed on the glass panel of the monitor. When a user touches the monitor with his or her finger, some of the charge is transferred to the user, so the charge on the capacitive layer decreases. This decrease is measured in circuits located at each corner of the monitor. The computer calculates, from the relative differences in charge at each corner, exactly where the touch event took place and then relays that information to the touch-screen driver software. One advantage that the capacitive system has over the resistive system is that it transmits almost 90 percent of the light from the monitor, whereas the resistive system only transmits about 75 percent. This gives the capacitive system a much clearer picture than the resistive system.
On the monitor of a surface acoustic wave system, two transducers (one receiving and one sending) are placed along the x and y axes of the monitor's glass plate. Also placed on the glass are reflectors -- they reflect an electrical signal sent from one transducer to the other. The receiving transducer is able to tell if the wave has been disturbed by a touch event at any instant, and can locate it accordingly. The wave setup has no metallic layers on the screen, allowing for 100-percent light throughput and perfect image clarity. This makes the surface acoustic wave system best for displaying detailed graphics (both other systems have significant degradation in clarity).
Another area in which the systems differ is in which stimuli will register as a touch event. A resistive system registers a touch as long as the two layers make contact, which means that it doesn't matter if you touch it with your finger or a rubber ball. A capacitive system, on the other hand, must have a conductive input, usually your finger, in order to register a touch. The surface acoustic wave system works much like the resistive system, allowing a touch with almost any object -- except hard and small objects like a pen tip.
As far as price, the resistive system is the cheapest; its clarity is the lowest of the three, and its layers can be damaged by sharp objects. The surface acoustic wave setup is usually the most expensive.
How Stuff Works people, its a great website. heres a picture i made to show you how the tech works, or at least how it appears to me.
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Very informative, thanks.

cool info, thanks for your effort.
but does this mean we may be able to improve drivers for a multi touch on our h/d or on other resisitive screens?

This whole lack-of-multi-touch-on-the-HD thing got me thinking. One problem is obviously the gaming side of things, where you can't push two virtual buttons at once to go at a diagonal say.
If you open up an SMS and use the Transcriber option, then push at two points on the screen, there is a line drawn that stops mid-way between the two pushed points.
Would it not be possible therefore, for a cleverer person than I, to program a virtual D-Pad that could work out when two buttons were pushed simply by triangulating the position of the virtual cursor?
Does that make sense?

That's an interesting point, Major.
Try this also, in the notes app - turn it to drawing mode. Then hold one finger on the screen in one position, and then tap the screen or drag around the screen with your other finger. You see how the touchscreen makes lines that fan out between the two points of contact.

i believe that it may be possible to somehow utilize the fact that something does happen when pushing in on two points of a resistive screen.
the real problem with it is that when you push on two seperate points, the screen makes an indentation that spans across the area between the two. the layer you are pushing on is simply not elastic enough to register two smaller seperate points or indents. its just read as one big indent on the layer between the two points of pressure. this is why the the screen only reads a point between the two. the sensor is just picking up one giant blob that centers at the mid point between your two fingers. this wouldnt really help much because the farther apart your fingers are the more random the point location becomes---this is because the thin layer will be contacting the layer below at multiple random spots between your two fingers. idk. it seems like it wasnt meant for multi touch. and a driver would need to have a more precise input than that.

Ahh, but consider a simple d-pad arrangement, with 4 direction buttons and maybe 2 action buttons (à la SNES or similar?). Diagonals would be easy enough with the point of contact appearing between the 2 buttons pushed. A move-and-fire combo could be detected with clever placement of the virtual action buttons giving the device a good clear area of detection.
If I get time today, I'll try to draw a simple graphic. A picture speaks a thousand words and all that.
Edit: OK, excuse my laughable drawing, but you get the idea. With better placement, the buttons could be made quite in-sensitive to where the fingers/thumbs are pushing on them.

My thoughts on the matter.
I think it would do emulator or even virtual d pad developers well to add this option into their d pad. When you press on two points the screen reads in between right? So if you're playing mario and you're trying to run and jump over a hole, just have a setting that allows right button to continue if suddenly the pointer reads in the middle of the screen. In otherwords, it would make no sense for a nintendo player to suddenly press the middle of the screen, so the d pad would read that as a whichever butten first pressed, plus button now being pressed.
If it reads exactly between both points, then the software should be able to guess which button you're pressing by calculating which buttons are exactly in line with eachother. There will be a beginning reference set by the first point pressed, so it is only a matter of auto executing o---^---0. I hope this idea makes some sense to someone other than me.
Just think of Orion's belt and it's symetry to get the right idea of what I'm talking about.
Caid.
Just a bit more clarity, if the d pad developers set up a reference of center screen points, the could technically program their pads to be multitouch souley off the basics that each two buttons pressed together would have a center point at an exact or near exact point in between the left and right side of the d pad. This wouldn't work for diagnal, but for any direction plus ABXYLR there would be a center point between each of them, a place in between them that the phone would register the touch.
Is this exploitable?
Sorry for constantly editing, but ideas keep crystalizing.
Beyond the first idea, to register an A+b, have slide vs tap settings on the d pad. That means, if I slide from a to b, the d pad will hold a and activate b as opposed to just switching between the two. Once again, this should technically be possible with the first idea as the middle reference point should also read a shift. In fact, if you're pressing on both sides of the screen at once (d pad and abxy) then all the actually pressing action would be happening in the center of the screen or rather between both pads.

tazbo28 said:
the real problem with it is that when you push on two seperate points, the screen makes an indentation that spans across the area between the two. the layer you are pushing on is simply not elastic enough to register two smaller seperate points or indents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I seriously doubt that it's technically any more difficult than calculating the two touch positions on a capacitive digitizer (keeping in mind that in reality "multi" means "dual").

it's actually hysterical raisins (historical reasons) that resistive is single touch only - when PDAs were first developed, the designers had to cater for both stylus (very precise) and finger use. Finger use is spread over the fingertip so the designers hard-coded algorithms that would average out the touch coordinates so the middle of the touch events.
The mentality basically went along the line of "why would you want to touch two points on the screen at the same time? Nothing uses that! Can you think of a use for that? No? Ah well, we don't need that then"
This has held until Apple decided to use the more battery draining capacitive method (resistive only uses battery when the two layers touch, capacitive has a constant charge and therefore constant drain) and decided to use multi-touch as a gimmick (and, lets be completely blunt here it IS a gimmick - pinching is NOT easier than running a circle around the point of interest and it's certainly more clumsy than a slider for zooming!) under the pretense of a new and awesome feature for mobiles (it does have practical use in laptop trackpads though)
Resistive technology does support multi-touch, but it's a bigger issue to code the function because the touch events are processed by the touch controller then sent to the operating system as x/y coordinates. The operating system can't do anything about this. To get resistive technology to support multi-touch you'd have to re-code the controllers...

Major_Sarcasm and Caid444, I agree 100%. If I just had the time, given that I can develop applications using .Net Framework, I should be able to replicate this in a simple application. Will try and get back to you... I'll start with a Win XP app, just the concept, and then I will deal with Compact Framework (if it's still called 'Compact'). Making drivers to work in any application is another story, though.

tazbo28 said:
Ok so people have been confused over the tech thats behind the Iphone/G1 capacitive dual touch screen, and all WinMo phones resisitive screens. So i thought i would do the great job of researching the tech behind both methods. 10 minutes later i came across this info on how both methods work, as well as a more expensive and even better method using acoustic mumbo jumbo. So for all you out there that are too lazy to do the diggin, heres the info that once and for all puts the rumors to bed about "...i heard its dual touch capable from so and so website..."
PLEASE READ>>>
The resistive system consists of a normal glass panel that is covered with a conductive and a resistive metallic layer. These two layers are held apart by spacers, and a scratch-resistant layer is placed on top of the whole setup. An electrical current runs through the two layers while the monitor is operational. When a user touches the screen, the two layers make contact in that exact spot. The change in the electrical field is noted and the coordinates of the point of contact are calculated by the computer. Once the coordinates are known, a special driver translates the touch into something that the operating system can understand, much as a computer mouse driver translates a mouse's movements into a click or a drag.
In the capacitive system, a layer that stores electrical charge is placed on the glass panel of the monitor. When a user touches the monitor with his or her finger, some of the charge is transferred to the user, so the charge on the capacitive layer decreases. This decrease is measured in circuits located at each corner of the monitor. The computer calculates, from the relative differences in charge at each corner, exactly where the touch event took place and then relays that information to the touch-screen driver software. One advantage that the capacitive system has over the resistive system is that it transmits almost 90 percent of the light from the monitor, whereas the resistive system only transmits about 75 percent. This gives the capacitive system a much clearer picture than the resistive system.
On the monitor of a surface acoustic wave system, two transducers (one receiving and one sending) are placed along the x and y axes of the monitor's glass plate. Also placed on the glass are reflectors -- they reflect an electrical signal sent from one transducer to the other. The receiving transducer is able to tell if the wave has been disturbed by a touch event at any instant, and can locate it accordingly. The wave setup has no metallic layers on the screen, allowing for 100-percent light throughput and perfect image clarity. This makes the surface acoustic wave system best for displaying detailed graphics (both other systems have significant degradation in clarity).
Another area in which the systems differ is in which stimuli will register as a touch event. A resistive system registers a touch as long as the two layers make contact, which means that it doesn't matter if you touch it with your finger or a rubber ball. A capacitive system, on the other hand, must have a conductive input, usually your finger, in order to register a touch. The surface acoustic wave system works much like the resistive system, allowing a touch with almost any object -- except hard and small objects like a pen tip.
As far as price, the resistive system is the cheapest; its clarity is the lowest of the three, and its layers can be damaged by sharp objects. The surface acoustic wave setup is usually the most expensive.
How Stuff Works people, its a great website. heres a picture i made to show you how the tech works, or at least how it appears to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks tazbo28
Very usefull info here!

Here what the guys working on android have been able to produce with a capacitive screen:
http://gizmodo.com/5097166/android-multitouch-proof-of-concept-aint-pretty-but-it-works
Multi-touch that works "not-so-well-but-at-least-it-does"

tazbo28 said:
the real problem with it is that when you push on two seperate points, the screen makes an indentation that spans across the area between the two. the layer you are pushing on is simply not elastic enough to register two smaller seperate points or indents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your source?

I don't think so...
Just a little comment about the two points creating a crease down the screen. The distance between the metalic layer and the plastic screen is minimal at best, not to mention the material on the top layer is very flexible. I don't think it's likely at all that the screen would have a crease or ridge between the two points, there's just not enough indent to create this scenario.
One more thing, I'm not 100 percent sure, but I get the impression that the space between the two layers isn't actually filled with air but in fact some sort of non conductive fluid or gel. It would help the two laters to retain their space and elasticity from eachother.
But what do I know without poking holes in my screen (and I'm not about to do that.)
Caid.

just got this from wikipedia
Resistive touchscreens are composed of two flexible sheets coated with a resistive material and separated by an air gap or microdots. When contact is made to the surface of the touchscreen, the two sheets are pressed together, registering the precise location of the touch.
For example, during operation of a four-wire touchscreen, a uniform, unidirectional voltage gradient is applied to the first sheet. When the two sheets are pressed together, the second sheet measures the voltage as distance along the first sheet, providing the X coordinate. When this contact coordinate has been acquired, the uniform voltage gradient is applied to the second sheet to ascertain the Y coordinate. This operation occurs instantaneously, registering the exact touch location as contact is made.
Resistive touchscreens typically have high resolution (4096 x 4096 DPI or higher), providing accurate touch control. Because the touchscreen responds to pressure on its surface, contact can be made with a finger or any other pointing device.
the part about "microdots" is true i can see the grid of super tiny dots on my 8125 touch screen

Elephone P9000 Lite 5.5" FHD, Helio P10, Android 6.0, 3000mAh, USB Type-C

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Highlights
- 5.5 Inch LG OGS Narrow Bezel, 1920*1080 pixels FHD
- Helio P10 MTK6755 2.0GHz Octa Core, GPU: ARM Mali-T860
- 4GB RAM + 32GB ROM, TF-Card up to 256GB
- Off Screen Wakeup & App Lock
- 3000mAh battery, 1,5Ah charger
- 13 MP f2.0 OV13850 main camera + 5 MP OV5640 front
- Dual tone LED flash
- CNC made alloy frame
- USB Typ -C, 2.4G / 5G WIFI, OTG , BT 4.0
- Gyroscope, G-Sensor, P-Sensor, L-Sensor, Hall, E-compass etc.
- Smart Key / Offscreen gestures
- Android 6.0 system Marshmallow
- Supports 2G & 3G & 4G LTE network
- Network: GSM 850/900/1800/1900MHz, WCDMA 850/900/1900/2100MHz, FDD-LTE B1/B3/B7/B8/B20
Unboxing and Firts Look (Italian language comment):
Deep analysis:

TWRP 3.0.0 http://www.needrom.com/download/p9000-lite-twrp-3-0-0/
Multilanguage, more than 10 languages!
Download and Install correctly Mediatek Preloader drivers before using Flashtool
( Take care on Windows 8.1/10 drivers, you need to disable driver signature before install
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50pD0mONm44
http://laurentiumihet.ro/technology...-for-32-64-bit-drivers-installation-tutorial/
https://thebroodle.com/microsoft/windows/install-mediatek-mt65xx-usb-vcom-drivers-windows-8-8-1/
1- With flashtool load MT6755_Android_Scatter-TWRP3.txt
2- Select download and connect smartphone to pc (smartphone must be powered off)… in few seconds will start the process and the new TWRP will be flashed.
To restore original stock recovery, you need load ad point 1 the file MT6755_Android_Scatter.txt
P.P.S to enter in the recovery, power off the smartphone, push VOL + and Power at the same time, you will see three words with VOL + you move selection, with VOL – you must select Recovery
To have root flash with TWRP the archive supersu.zip found here: https://download.chainfire.eu/696/supersu/

Is there a recovery like TWRP for it?

PetaX8 said:
Is there a recovery like TWRP for it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm waiting for stock rom from Elephone.
After received i'll start to work on TWRP

Unboxing and Firts Look (Italian language comment):
Waiting for another updated video with Photo, Video, Gaming, Browser, Music!! ... and Recovery/Root of course!

And finally TWRP 3.0.0 is out!
http://www.needrom.com/download/p9000-lite-twrp-3-0-0/

Review elephone P9000 Lite
Package, Content, Aesthetics: [/ B]
The package is white, a rectangular cardboard of dimensions quite standard and similar to that seen on previous elephone.
Box contents: 1 Power supply with EU 5V 2A USB socket, 1 USB Cable Type C, 1 handbook quick guides and 1 Spillino for removal.
- External dimensions of the compact smartphone for the 5.5 "category; it measures 148 x 74 x 7.3mm (8.4 at the point of greatest projection given by the camera) and a little more weight 139g.
- Good quality construction, however, unlike the P9000, the side frame is made of plastic instead of metal.
- On the Right side we find the volume rocker and the power button at the bottom, buttons generally have a mild game and with not too ergonomic position to tell the truth.
- Left side which includes the removable trolley for the two sim (micro) or a SIM and MicroSD (shared second slot) and the middle one "smart key" that enable you to open any app you like.
- On the top side we find the audio jack.
- On the Bottom side we find the socket Micro USB Type-C, the microphone and the speaker that only deals with the right housing (although there is a second symmetrical left unoccupied)
- In the back up we find the camera from Omnivision 13Mpixel OV13850 (projecting), dual LED flash to the side and down the elephone logo.
- On the front we find at the top the capsule headset, the camera 8Mpixel OV5648 and brightness / proximity sensors; down only key to the central touch that performs the functions of the typical capacitive keys based on the number of touches or of the prolonged pressure. Although there is the housing for the LED below the central key, this is not present unlike the P9000.
- Rear Cover not removable (though it is possible to remove it with a pick) and the presence of an opaque black material and workmanship "sandstone" provides a great grip. In general good ergonomics for the rounded shape and the compactness for the excellent weight distribution.
- Outer pane that does not have films applied, appears to have a decent oleophobic treatment that makes it very pleasant to use and finger scrolling, but has no 2.5D machining as seen in many current smartphones. The same is however very well protected by the side frame to the benefit of resistance and ease in finding / applying glass / plastic film without being in any way forced to take them off the peripheral part that would not join.
- Brightness good screen, good viewing angle; FHD IPS screen LG LCD LTPS with natural colors and you can intervene with Miravision.
- Precise Touch, multitouch to 5 touches the rapid writing and pinch in / close out easy and make the satisfying user experience.
- Two in a Micro SIM slot and microSD slot format which shares space with the second sim and has tested capacity up to 128Gb.
- Non-removable 3000mAh battery which guarantees on'ottima durability thanks to the skills of low-power CPU P10 and the FHD screen.
- Android 6.0 without any customization, pretty much stock, if we exclude the gestures, customized "smart" key and some other additional function.
- Open app and switching between apps very fast .. stock browser that the marshmallow version is updated a minimum of basic chrome (I still recommend Chrome / Chrome Dev that further enhance the user experience).
- Excellent management of internal rom 32Gb which are available in a 26GB partition around for apps and data.
- Good management ram 4Gb by Android 6 .. more than 2.8GB of RAM left over after loading some apps into memory at startup; Android 6 then allows many customizations in the management app in memory, battery-saving features with Doze, and more ..
Connectivity: [/ B]
WiFi b / g / n showing the compatibility with the standard 2.4 and 5Ghz, the stable coupling but the power is slightly inferior to other smartphones tested in the past.
Bluetooth 4.0 / 4.1 tested coupled with smart phones, headphones / wearables and cars, no problems.
OTG: With various adapter cables USB Type-C micro usb have not managed to read OTG devices to P9000 lite.
GPS: Quick fix of satellites, accuracy of about 2 meters, the signal is good and we have the compatibility with GLONASS satellites. And 'this compass although in this first software release seems slightly "jerky and dancer"
camera:
- Main camera 13Mpixel Omnivision OV13850 f / 2 that produces good shots in daylight; good focus and powerful enough flash and synchronized; camera interface stock mediatek with very few differences from the one already seen in the past on Android 5.1.
Good video performance, good focus but in case of poor lighting, we have some problems with vertical stripes that will be resolved with the next update software.
- Second Camera for Selfies 8 megapixel OV5648 f / 2.8 the quality is just enough and I also ache this will be the subject of improvements with a software update.
Photo Album: [/ b]
http://imgur.com/a/8GT59 [/ url]
....imagebam.com/47176/3ed5f4471752282.jpg[/IMG]
Geekbench 3 with about 3036 points in the multi-core test and 834 in the single core test.
https://browser.primatelabs.com/us....imagebam.com/47176/352364471752341.jpg[/IMG]
Audio: [/ B]
sufficient volumes sound quality generally high but there was a fairly flat sound and without character.
Audio speaker at maximum volume slightly scratchy, position the speaker apt, no problem with the device resting on the floor.
Good vibrations and sound in good headset.
Conclusion of elephone P9000 Lite: [/ B]
PRO: [/ B]
- Hardware excellent consists Helio P10 MT6755 CPU with up to 2Ghz Core A53 Android 6.0 on a Marshmallow "under € 200" device
- 4Gb DDR3 Ram and 32GB Rom fast eMMC 5.1 to support you in every situation.
- Look & Feel and optimization of the overall dimensions thanks to the use of thin frames that allow it to be very handy and compact, seems to have a 5.2 "in hand.
- Miravision 2.0 for personalization saturation / white / contrast balance.
- Dual SIM (micro SIM) and Micro Sd with head capacity up to 128Gb.
- Main camera which although less than the brand name counterpart of this Sony on P9000, it still shows discrete and improved further by software
- Which, although non-removable battery that is about real 2900mAh, allowing more than 4 hours of screen on the average day of use with the active sim data traffic.
AGAINST: [/ B]
- There is the notification LED below the home button unlike the P9000.
- Is not this the fast battery charging, NFC, a fingerprint, the gyroscope and the metal side frame unlike the P9000.
- Rom "unripe" that generates some compatibility problems with some games, with the settings of the various menus and in some cases with sensors on board.
- Audio for improved quality and management.
- Protruding from the camera back cover which can lead to scratches and abrasions on the glass, if you do not use a cover.
- Location of the physical keys not very ergonomic and setting the "smart key" to the left just for opening the app.
- Accessories cut to the bone, although compared to the P9000 in the package are also the 5V 2A power supply.
- Absence of accessories (cover, films, houses) immediately available, but we trust in their short availability.
- With the vast majority of converters USB to Micro USB Type-C you will not be able to use the OTG function, but only the data transfer and charging.
Screenshots:
[/URL

Beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards: Switches, form-factors, keycaps, and more

Mechanical keyboards are some of the best keyboards you can buy today as they offer a very satisfying feel and sound. They're also more customizable and generally help in improving your productivity, especially if you're planning to get one for typing. Even gamers prefer playing on a mechanical keyboard as they're fast, reliable, and have a long shelf life. But what exactly is a mechanical keyboard, and how does it differ from a regular keyboard? We're going to answer that and a lot more in this beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards.
Mechanical keyboard vs. Membrane keyboard​If you're out in the market looking for a new keyboard, you broadly have two choices. The most common type is a membrane keyboard that has rubber domes or pressure pads under each key which, upon pressing, completes the circuit and sends the command of the given key. Instead of using any mechanical parts, these keyboards use a silicone, rubber sheet, or a pad that sits on top of the circuit board.
While these are great for users who want a slim, compact keyboard, they're not the most accurate while typing. You also have to consider the life of the rubber padding underneath as it can decay over time. On the positive side, these keyboards are inexpensive and more resistant to dust and liquids, requiring less maintenance.
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Membrane rubber-dome key switch
On the other hand, mechanical keyboards make use of an individual switch mechanism for every single key. Each mechanical key switch includes a keycap that's attached with a stem, along with a spring, metal contact leaves, and a slider placed inside the switch housing. Each part can have variations, thus allowing manufacturers the flexibility to give a large variety of options to users. They can fine-tune the pressure required for bottoming out each key, travel distance, actuation point, the sound made, and more.
Basically, a mechanical switch can be offered with a wide range of customizations when compared to a membrane keyboard. However, like every mechanical part, the key switches need maintenance if you want your keyboard to last long. Apart from cleaning, you need to lube the switches and maybe even use modifiers like stabilizers or films to reduce clacking.
If you're unable to understand any of the terms that we've used below, there's an excellent guide you can refer to.
How does a mechanical keyboard work?​To understand how a mechanical keyboard works, let’s first understand the mechanical keyboard switch. Each key on a mechanical keyboard includes its own switch. At the top is the keycap, which isn’t necessarily a part of the mechanical switch, but it's where your fingers press the switch and is partially responsible for the sound generated when the key bottoms out.
The keycap is attached to a stem that comes in different designs and determines the actuation and travel distance of the switch. It sits inside the upper housing that protects the stem and is also the place where your keycap hits when you press a key.
Then we have the spring that's responsible for how much pressure is required to actuate or register the keypress. It also pushes the stem back to its original place after a keypress. The metal contact points or contact leaves are where the actual electrical current flows, and the keypress is registered. We also have a lower housing that connects with the upper housing on the top and into the keyboard chassis at the bottom.
Mechanical key switch
When you press a key, the stem pushes the spring down, thereby allowing the two metal contacts to connect and register your keypress to the keyboard’s circuitry and thus to your computer. By adding variations to the different parts of the switch, manufacturers can offer a different feel, sound, and actuation force. Hence we have a variety of keyboard switches that are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
Key switches​Mechanical switches are available in three categories that are based on their characteristics. They're either linear, tactile, or clicky. Linear switches are usually smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily.
Tactile switches are very similar in terms of construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate.
Clicky switches are almost the same as tactile switches, including a bump in the mechanism but are louder, giving a very satisfying sound. The additional audio feedback isn’t always pleasing and can be annoying for certain users.
Some of the key characteristics of a mechanical switch include:
Actuation point, which refers to the specific point when the key switch registers the keypress. Different switches can have a variety of actuation points, measured by force in grams.
Bottom out, is when a key is pressed hard enough to press down the switch completely. It's also measured in force, where a higher bottom out weight means it's much harder for you to press all the way down.
Key travel is how far the switch goes from fully depressed to bottoming out. The standard travel distance is 4mm but there are a few mechanical switches that offer lesser travel distance.
Traditionally, linear switches are said to be good for gaming, while typists prefer clicky and tactile switches. Of course, there are no rules here, and it all depends on how comfortable you are with a certain key switch.
Based on these three types, we have several switches available from a variety of manufacturers. Alps and Cherry are legacy brands that continue to offer some of the best mechanical keyboard switches. Gateron, Otemu, and Kailh are also some of the more popular names when it comes to mechanical key switches.
The past few years have seen a huge rise of Cherry MX-based mechanical keyboards primarily offered in red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) colored switches. Color coding is the best way to determine the characteristics of each switch. While it's mostly universal, certain manufacturers have their own color-coding that can confuse first-time buyers. Here are some of the popular ones:
Cherry MX​Cherry MX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Cherry MX Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Black: Linear, 60gram actuation
Gateron​Gateron Blue: Clicky, 55gram actuation
Gateron Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Gateron Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Gateron Black: Linear, 50gram actuation
Kailh​Kailh Silver: Linear,40gram actuation
Kailh Copper: Tactile, 50gram actuation
Kailh Bronze: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Gold: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Black: Linear 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Brown: Tactile 50gram actuation
Kailh Box Red: Linear 45gram actuation
Kailh Box White: Clicky 45gram actuation
Logitech Romer-G​Romer-G Tactile, 45gram actuation
Romer-G Linear, 45gram actuation
GX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer​Razer Green: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer Orange: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Razer Yellow: Linear, 45gram actuation
Razer Opto-Mechanical: Clicky, 45gram actuation
HyperX​HyperX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
HyperX Aqua: Tactile, 45gram actuation
These are just some of the most common mechanical key switches. There are a lot more switches available for you to explore from brands like Outemu, ZealPC, MOD, etc.
Most mechanical keyboards have these switches soldered onto the main circuit board. However, there are a few manufacturers that offer mechanical keyboards with the option of hot-swapping the switches. You should definitely check out Glorious GMMK, if you're interested in hot-swappable mechanical switch keyboards. Either way, you'd need to invest money and a lot of time if you plan to move to a certain switch type.
Having the flexibility to choose the type of key switch is also one reason why people opt for mechanical keyboards. If you plan to swap out the key switches on your keyboard, especially if you have them soldered, there are risks involved in this process. It's advised you take utmost care before trying to remove the switches by yourself.
Size and Layout​Now let’s come to the form factor and layout options. Mechanical keyboards are available in traditional full size with a dedicated number pad having a total of 104 keys. Some manufacturers also offer additional media keys, volume knobs, or dials at the top.
If you don’t care about a dedicated number pad, you can go smaller with a TKL (Tenkeyless) size, which is essentially an 80% keyboard with around 88 keys in total. The TKL form factor is also available in a 75% size, which basically has the keys cramped together.
Then there are 65% and 60% keyboards that only have about 61 keys. This form factor removes anything to the right of the Enter key, along with the function row on top. You can access extra functions by holding down the FN and pressing other keys.
It all comes down to the size of your desk and your personal preferences. Small keyboards do look neat and take up less space, but they can take some time to get used to the layout.
Speaking of which, let’s quickly understand the layouts.
Image: Quantum Mechanical Keyboard
There are a total of three universally accepted layouts -- ANSI, ISO, and JIS. Layouts are primarily based on the region, where ANSI is for America, ISO for Europe, and JIS for Japan. Primarily the difference between them is how some of the keys are placed. ANSI and ISO are mostly similar, with the Enter and Shift keys having different shapes and sizes. On the other hand, JIS has a similar layout of the Enter and right Shift key as ISO but also has a different bottom row layout.
Keycaps​Keycaps are the plastic caps that cover each key. They're easy to remove and replace where you can get them in various sizes, shapes, colors, and plastic, and of course, the letters printed on them. Keycap sets are easily available either as base kits covering most conventional board layouts or extension kits that include only a small set of keycaps.
Before choosing the right set of keycaps, make sure you confirm the layout and form factor as mentioned above. Additionally, check if your keyboard has a standardized layout. For instance, Corsair has certain keyboards that offer a slightly different bottom row layout where the size of the keycaps differ, thereby not allowing you to use third-party keycaps.
Another important factor to consider while choosing keycaps is the profile. Usually, a keyset has either a sculpted or a uniform profile. With the former, the keys in each row have a different shape and height. Essentially, sculpted keycaps can’t be used on the rows they’re not designed for. A keyset with a uniform profile is pretty simple where each row of keys is the same shape and height, allowing you to place the keycaps on any row as required. Keycaps can also differ in height, where low-profile keycaps offer less weight allowing you to type faster.
Keycaps are basically just a piece of sculpted plastic. They're usually made of either ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is the most common one, or PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which is gaining a lot of popularity. ABS keycaps are available in a wider color range, offer better and sharper letter printing, and are straighter and more consistent. PBT, on the other hand, offers a rougher texture and doesn't wear out that easily. PBT keycaps also come with a deeper sound profile and are recommended for non-conventional artisanal design.
Other factors to consider​Whether you're a gamer or an avid typist, there are some additional things you need to know about mechanical keyboards. Depending on your use case, you can opt for a wireless or a wired mechanical keyboard. Certain manufacturers offer keyboards that have a detachable cable, which is convenient for portability.
As with wireless mice, wireless mechanical keyboards either use Bluetooth or a 2.4GHz based connectivity method via a USB-based receiver. While both are equally good, the latter offers much lower latency. These often come with different names depending on the manufacturers and are the preferred choice for gamers.
Speaking of which, modern gaming mechanical keyboards now offer super-fast polling rates going up to 8,000Hz, reducing the latency down to a ludicrous 0.25ms. This means these keyboards offer the fastest response time, which is crucial when it comes to gaming.
The Corsair K70 RGB TKL comes with a polling rate of up to 8000Hz
Let’s come to keyboard backlighting. You can get mechanical keyboards with simple single-colored backlighting, which should solve the purpose of lighting up the keyboard when you're working at night. Additionally, there's the entire topic of RGB backlighting. It has strong opinions on both sides of the fence. While some absolutely hate it, others can't live without it. Cheaper mechanical keyboards offer zone-based RGB lighting allowing users to light up certain areas of the keyboard with a certain color. Per-key RGB lighting, on the other hand, lets you create some crazy effects. Certain premium mechanical keyboards also offer additional RGB LED bars along with the support of up to 16.8 million colors, giving you the freedom to experiment with all sorts of hues and color combinations.

kunalneo said:
Mechanical keyboards are some of the best keyboards you can buy today as they offer a very satisfying feel and sound. They're also more customizable and generally help in improving your productivity, especially if you're planning to get one for typing. Even gamers prefer playing on a mechanical keyboard as they're fast, reliable, and have a long shelf life. But what exactly is a mechanical keyboard, and how does it differ from a regular keyboard? We're going to answer that and a lot more in this beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards.
Mechanical keyboard vs. Membrane keyboard​If you're out in the market looking for a new keyboard, you broadly have two choices. The most common type is a membrane keyboard that has rubber domes or pressure pads under each key which, upon pressing, completes the circuit and sends the command of the given key. Instead of using any mechanical parts, these keyboards use a silicone, rubber sheet, or a pad that sits on top of the circuit board.
While these are great for users who want a slim, compact keyboard, they're not the most accurate while typing. You also have to consider the life of the rubber padding underneath as it can decay over time. On the positive side, these keyboards are inexpensive and more resistant to dust and liquids, requiring less maintenance.
Membrane rubber-dome key switch
On the other hand, mechanical keyboards make use of an individual switch mechanism for every single key. Each mechanical key switch includes a keycap that's attached with a stem, along with a spring, metal contact leaves, and a slider placed inside the switch housing. Each part can have variations, thus allowing manufacturers the flexibility to give a large variety of options to users. They can fine-tune the pressure required for bottoming out each key, travel distance, actuation point, the sound made, and more.
Basically, a mechanical switch can be offered with a wide range of customizations when compared to a membrane keyboard. However, like every mechanical part, the key switches need maintenance if you want your keyboard to last long. Apart from cleaning, you need to lube the switches and maybe even use modifiers like stabilizers or films to reduce clacking.
If you're unable to understand any of the terms that we've used below, there's an excellent guide you can refer to.
How does a mechanical keyboard work?​To understand how a mechanical keyboard works, let’s first understand the mechanical keyboard switch. Each key on a mechanical keyboard includes its own switch. At the top is the keycap, which isn’t necessarily a part of the mechanical switch, but it's where your fingers press the switch and is partially responsible for the sound generated when the key bottoms out.
The keycap is attached to a stem that comes in different designs and determines the actuation and travel distance of the switch. It sits inside the upper housing that protects the stem and is also the place where your keycap hits when you press a key.
Then we have the spring that's responsible for how much pressure is required to actuate or register the keypress. It also pushes the stem back to its original place after a keypress. The metal contact points or contact leaves are where the actual electrical current flows, and the keypress is registered. We also have a lower housing that connects with the upper housing on the top and into the keyboard chassis at the bottom.
Mechanical key switch
When you press a key, the stem pushes the spring down, thereby allowing the two metal contacts to connect and register your keypress to the keyboard’s circuitry and thus to your computer. By adding variations to the different parts of the switch, manufacturers can offer a different feel, sound, and actuation force. Hence we have a variety of keyboard switches that are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
Key switches​Mechanical switches are available in three categories that are based on their characteristics. They're either linear, tactile, or clicky. Linear switches are usually smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily.
Tactile switches are very similar in terms of construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate.
Clicky switches are almost the same as tactile switches, including a bump in the mechanism but are louder, giving a very satisfying sound. The additional audio feedback isn’t always pleasing and can be annoying for certain users.
Some of the key characteristics of a mechanical switch include:
Actuation point, which refers to the specific point when the key switch registers the keypress. Different switches can have a variety of actuation points, measured by force in grams.
Bottom out, is when a key is pressed hard enough to press down the switch completely. It's also measured in force, where a higher bottom out weight means it's much harder for you to press all the way down.
Key travel is how far the switch goes from fully depressed to bottoming out. The standard travel distance is 4mm but there are a few mechanical switches that offer lesser travel distance.
Traditionally, linear switches are said to be good for gaming, while typists prefer clicky and tactile switches. Of course, there are no rules here, and it all depends on how comfortable you are with a certain key switch.
Based on these three types, we have several switches available from a variety of manufacturers. Alps and Cherry are legacy brands that continue to offer some of the best mechanical keyboard switches. Gateron, Otemu, and Kailh are also some of the more popular names when it comes to mechanical key switches.
The past few years have seen a huge rise of Cherry MX-based mechanical keyboards primarily offered in red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) colored switches. Color coding is the best way to determine the characteristics of each switch. While it's mostly universal, certain manufacturers have their own color-coding that can confuse first-time buyers. Here are some of the popular ones:
Cherry MX​Cherry MX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Cherry MX Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Black: Linear, 60gram actuation
Gateron​Gateron Blue: Clicky, 55gram actuation
Gateron Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Gateron Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Gateron Black: Linear, 50gram actuation
Kailh​Kailh Silver: Linear,40gram actuation
Kailh Copper: Tactile, 50gram actuation
Kailh Bronze: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Gold: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Black: Linear 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Brown: Tactile 50gram actuation
Kailh Box Red: Linear 45gram actuation
Kailh Box White: Clicky 45gram actuation
Logitech Romer-G​Romer-G Tactile, 45gram actuation
Romer-G Linear, 45gram actuation
GX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer​Razer Green: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer Orange: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Razer Yellow: Linear, 45gram actuation
Razer Opto-Mechanical: Clicky, 45gram actuation
HyperX​HyperX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
HyperX Aqua: Tactile, 45gram actuation
These are just some of the most common mechanical key switches. There are a lot more switches available for you to explore from brands like Outemu, ZealPC, MOD, etc.
Most mechanical keyboards have these switches soldered onto the main circuit board. However, there are a few manufacturers that offer mechanical keyboards with the option of hot-swapping the switches. You should definitely check out Glorious GMMK, if you're interested in hot-swappable mechanical switch keyboards. Either way, you'd need to invest money and a lot of time if you plan to move to a certain switch type.
Having the flexibility to choose the type of key switch is also one reason why people opt for mechanical keyboards. If you plan to swap out the key switches on your keyboard, especially if you have them soldered, there are risks involved in this process. It's advised you take utmost care before trying to remove the switches by yourself.
Size and Layout​Now let’s come to the form factor and layout options. Mechanical keyboards are available in traditional full size with a dedicated number pad having a total of 104 keys. Some manufacturers also offer additional media keys, volume knobs, or dials at the top.
If you don’t care about a dedicated number pad, you can go smaller with a TKL (Tenkeyless) size, which is essentially an 80% keyboard with around 88 keys in total. The TKL form factor is also available in a 75% size, which basically has the keys cramped together.
Then there are 65% and 60% keyboards that only have about 61 keys. This form factor removes anything to the right of the Enter key, along with the function row on top. You can access extra functions by holding down the FN and pressing other keys.
It all comes down to the size of your desk and your personal preferences. Small keyboards do look neat and take up less space, but they can take some time to get used to the layout.
Speaking of which, let’s quickly understand the layouts.
Image: Quantum Mechanical Keyboard
There are a total of three universally accepted layouts -- ANSI, ISO, and JIS. Layouts are primarily based on the region, where ANSI is for America, ISO for Europe, and JIS for Japan. Primarily the difference between them is how some of the keys are placed. ANSI and ISO are mostly similar, with the Enter and Shift keys having different shapes and sizes. On the other hand, JIS has a similar layout of the Enter and right Shift key as ISO but also has a different bottom row layout.
Keycaps​Keycaps are the plastic caps that cover each key. They're easy to remove and replace where you can get them in various sizes, shapes, colors, and plastic, and of course, the letters printed on them. Keycap sets are easily available either as base kits covering most conventional board layouts or extension kits that include only a small set of keycaps.
Before choosing the right set of keycaps, make sure you confirm the layout and form factor as mentioned above. Additionally, check if your keyboard has a standardized layout. For instance, Corsair has certain keyboards that offer a slightly different bottom row layout where the size of the keycaps differ, thereby not allowing you to use third-party keycaps.
Another important factor to consider while choosing keycaps is the profile. Usually, a keyset has either a sculpted or a uniform profile. With the former, the keys in each row have a different shape and height. Essentially, sculpted keycaps can’t be used on the rows they’re not designed for. A keyset with a uniform profile is pretty simple where each row of keys is the same shape and height, allowing you to place the keycaps on any row as required. Keycaps can also differ in height, where low-profile keycaps offer less weight allowing you to type faster.
Keycaps are basically just a piece of sculpted plastic. They're usually made of either ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is the most common one, or PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which is gaining a lot of popularity. ABS keycaps are available in a wider color range, offer better and sharper letter printing, and are straighter and more consistent. PBT, on the other hand, offers a rougher texture and doesn't wear out that easily. PBT keycaps also come with a deeper sound profile and are recommended for non-conventional artisanal design.
Other factors to consider​Whether you're a gamer or an avid typist, there are some additional things you need to know about mechanical keyboards. Depending on your use case, you can opt for a wireless or a wired mechanical keyboard. Certain manufacturers offer keyboards that have a detachable cable, which is convenient for portability.
As with wireless mice, wireless mechanical keyboards either use Bluetooth or a 2.4GHz based connectivity method via a USB-based receiver. While both are equally good, the latter offers much lower latency. These often come with different names depending on the manufacturers and are the preferred choice for gamers.
Speaking of which, modern gaming mechanical keyboards now offer super-fast polling rates going up to 8,000Hz, reducing the latency down to a ludicrous 0.25ms. This means these keyboards offer the fastest response time, which is crucial when it comes to gaming.
The Corsair K70 RGB TKL comes with a polling rate of up to 8000Hz
Let’s come to keyboard backlighting. You can get mechanical keyboards with simple single-colored backlighting, which should solve the purpose of lighting up the keyboard when you're working at night. Additionally, there's the entire topic of RGB backlighting. It has strong opinions on both sides of the fence. While some absolutely hate it, others can't live without it. Cheaper mechanical keyboards offer zone-based RGB lighting allowing users to light up certain areas of the keyboard with a certain color. Per-key RGB lighting, on the other hand, lets you create some crazy effects. Certain premium mechanical keyboards also offer additional RGB LED bars along with the support of up to 16.8 million colors, giving you the freedom to experiment with all sorts of hues and color combinations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice guide

Really good guide, thanks

Mechanical keyboard modifications: Everything you need to know

Mechanical keyboards are not just reliable but are often more customizable when compared to regular keyboards. With some modifications, you can improve the performance and overall experience of your mechanical keyboard. In most cases, this is also more cost-effective than spending money on a brand new keyboard. As a bonus, it's fun, especially if you are someone like me who loves to tinker around with tech.
If you own a mechanical keyboard and are interested in taking things to the next level, then modding is the way to go. Here are some of your options.
WARNING - Before you go ahead, note that some of the suggested options below come with a certain amount of risk. There's a chance you could end up completely damaging your keyboard, so you should limit yourself to simple modifications. Additionally, you need to be aware that modifying your keyboard can lead to voiding your warranty. Don’t expect the manufacturer to replace your keyboard if you made attempts to change the switches or damaged the keyboard in any other way.
Keycaps​The easiest keyboard modification is replacing your keycaps. If your keycaps start to look old or lose their paint job, it's time to get some new ones. They're super easy to replace and while you can technically pull them out with your hands, using a keycap remover is more convenient. You can grab one online for a really low price, in case it wasn’t bundled with your keyboard or keycap set.
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If you have a relatively old mechanical keyboard or one that uses ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) keycaps, I recommend you go for double-shot PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate) keycaps. They come at a higher cost but are much better in terms of quality. The biggest advantage of PBT keycaps is that they don't come with printed letters; rather, they are formed by fusing two separate layers of plastic; so the letters are permanent and never fade or scratch.
If you have RGB lighting on your mechanical keyboard, try on some pudding keycaps. They look absolutely gorgeous as they diffuse the harsh LED lights giving off a nice uniform hue. Some really interesting custom artisan keycaps can be made to order, but those can cost you a fortune, especially if you want them with unique colors, shapes, and designs.
Custom artisan keycaps by Dwarf Factory
Key switches​Key switches are the most important part of the keyboard. It's the mechanism underneath each key that includes the housing, stem, spring, and metal contact leaves. While certain mechanical keyboards have the option of hot-swappable switches, others have the switches embedded onto the keyboard’s circuit board.
The latter is tricky if you want to replace the switches as you need to de-solder the existing ones and then solder the new ones. It's not as easy as it sounds.
You can try different types of switches, broadly available in three categories: clicky, tactile, and linear. Cherry MX is the most popular key switches available in different colors, each depicting how they feel and sound when you type on them. Other popular switches include Kailh and Gateron.
A word of caution, be careful when dealing with a keyboard that has key switches soldered onto the circuit board. They need special attention, and one wrong move could end up in a completely dead keyboard. Keyboard switches can also get expensive, especially if you plan on changing every single switch on your keyboard, where you could end up spending as much as the keyboard itself.
Alternatively, if you want to try different key switches for a particular purpose, say gaming, maybe swap out the ones you use the most, like the WASD or arrow keys. You also need to make sure you get the right set of switches for your particular keyboard, as one size doesn't fit all.
Stabilizers​Stabilizers give support to the keys allowing you to control the amount of jiggle on them. They also help in reducing unwanted clacky sounds during keystrokes. You'll primarily see stabilizers for the spacebar or enter keys, but you can essentially use them on almost any key if you feel they're too wobbly. Stabilizers are placed over the key switch and under the keycap to help keep it steady.
Image: AnandTech
You can either clamp them between individual switches or under the keycaps, depending on the provisions. If there are no grooves or any sort of assembly to attach the stabilizers, you can use hot glue or some tape. Just make sure you don’t go overboard with the glue.
Key switch films​
These have a similar purpose to a stabilizer but are cheaper and can be used on all the keys. Switch films are a thin piece of plastic that sits between the switch top and the switch bottom. These can be used to remove any sort of wobble effect caused by the stem of the switch and stabilizes them, thereby bringing a change in the overall sound.
O-rings​
An easy solution to dampen or make your keystrokes softer, o-rings are fairly cheap and easy to install. These are small rubber rings placed inside the keycaps. Once installed, these o-rings act as a buffer between the top of the key switch and the top of the keycap, thereby removing any friction and clack sounds caused by the two plastics coming into contact with each other.
Cable mods​
Image : Clark Kable
There are numerous guides online to upgrade and customize your keyboard cable. Most full-size keyboards come with a cable connected directly to the PCB board. If you're planning to upgrade the cable to maybe a stronger braided one, you'll need to open up the keyboard and use a soldering iron, which again isn't an easy job. Smaller TKL and compact keyboards come with a detachable cable. These are easier to replace as you can get higher quality or even colored ones. There are also some really good-looking coiled cables, but those can get really expensive and are meant for keyboards with detachable cables.
If you're ambitious, you can even go ahead and replace the USB connector on your keyboard with a Bluetooth receiver to convert it into a wireless keyboard. Of course, that modification isn't a walk in the park.
These are some of the most common keyboard modifications, but the sky's the limit if we're honest. We’ve seen some crazy modifications online, from custom casing to artisan keycaps. One of the latest trends in the keyboard modification world is modular keyboard kits. These are different parts of the keyboard that you can order and assemble on your own. The benefit here is you have the liberty to choose the casing, the switches, and the keycaps. The Glorious GMMK is one of the many custom modular keyboard kits you can try.

I've had to use O rings on my mechanical keyboard, to try to bring the noise level down. It didn't really work in my case. I ended up just removing them.

Understanding the different types of Mechanical Keyboard Switches

Mechanical keyboards are all the rage. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, wired or wireless, and of course, with and without fancy RGB lighting. But the most important factor to consider while buying a mechanical keyboard has to be the key switch. Choosing the right key switch can make a huge difference as opposed to a membrane-based keyboard. They are more reliable and offer a more personalized experience by offering varied feedback and travel time depending on which one you choose. Mechanical keyboard switches also tend to have a much better shelf life lasting millions of keystrokes.
What is a Mechanical Keyboard Switch?​A switch within the context of a keyboard is the mechanism underneath the keys. On a mechanical keyboard, each key has its own complete switch mechanism, comprising of a housing, a spring, a stem, and some other parts like click bars. Variations can be made on several of these components, giving rise to a plethora of options on the actual switch with different properties like the amount of pressure needed to actuate and to bottom out, the sound made, the travel distance, and more.
Practically all mechanical keyboards allow for the keycaps to be removed. And quite a lot of keyboards also allow for switching around for the switch mechanisms. If this swapping option is not available to the user, there's usually an option to choose the keyboard switch type at the time of purchase. This makes it quite imperative to know and understand the different types of mechanical switches present, in order to make the correct choice that suits your needs.
Types of Key Switches​Mechanical keyboard switches are broadly available in three categories. Depending on their characteristics, they are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
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Linear switches usually feel smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation or the registering of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily. Many gamers prefer investing in keyboards with linear switches, with the most common one being Cherry MX Red.
Tactile switches have a similar construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate, thus becoming the preferred choice of typists. Cherry MX Brown switches are one of the most popular among the variety of tactile keyboard switches available in the market.
Clicky switches follow the same concept as tactile switches, which means they're bumpy, but at the same time, they are louder by design. These key switches offer a bump along with additional audio feedback, which is pretty satisfying, almost like an old typewriter. However, this can be annoying for people around you, especially in an office environment. If you like having a nice clicky keyboard, you could look at Cherry MX Blue switches.
Which Key Switch should I get?​Based on the above characteristics, you'll find various types of switches offered by several manufacturers. Cherry MX is the most popular and widely accepted key switch and was also one of the first to classify them by color. Primarily, you need to know that Red or Black switches are linear, Brown or Clear switches are tactile, while Blue or Green switches are clicky. Depending on the keyboard OEM, these can differ but most of them are aligned with Cherry's color-coding. We will be discussing them in detail in a future post.
Most users recommend linear-type switches for gaming as they offer a consistent keystroke adding precision to every keypress. Typists usually prefer tactile or clicky switches as these allow for a faster keystroke experience. To be clear, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to key switches. Depending on your personal preference, you can choose between either of the three options. Personally, I’ve used linear type switches for a while now, and in my opinion, they work great for typing and gaming. Having said that, there are certain factors that you should consider while investing in a mechanical keyboard.
First and foremost, you need to make sure that the key switches last a long time. You don't want to spend a lot of money on a keyboard that doesn’t have a solid shelf life. Usually, mechanical switches have a lifespan ranging up to 50-80 million keystrokes, with Cherry MX switches offering a guarantee of 100 million keystrokes. Avoid buying a keyboard with cheap or unknown mechanical switches at all costs.
Make sure you get the right switch with the right set of keycaps. Certain keyboard manufacturers offer low-profile keycaps to reduce the overall weight. These should work well for users who have smaller hands or don't type with heavy force. Speaking of which, ensure that you invest in a keyboard that offers the right amount of spring force as well as travel distance. A strong spring force can tend to put a strain on your fingers. Similarly, opting for a keyboard that offers a short key travel distance means that you don't have to mash every key.

I made the mistake of getting blue switches for my first mechanical keyboard. I had not done enough research, so I wasn't prepared to have the loudest keyboard on the planet. I got lots of complaints while in voice calls because other people could hear my keyboard through my microphone.

XDARoni said:
I made the mistake of getting blue switches for my first mechanical keyboard. I had not done enough research, so I wasn't prepared to have the loudest keyboard on the planet. I got lots of complaints while in voice calls because other people could hear my keyboard through my microphone.
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Click to collapse
Oh no! Have you tried anything other than blue switches?

I like the Red Kailh switches cause I don't like the click