Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
meisme12 said:
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must be DC +12. Twist yellow and red cables together and feed them with DC +12. Black cable to ground.
If it doesn't deliver enough current it wont run properly. I'm using a 12 V power block able to deliver 3,3 A.
You can even use a AT powersupply from an old PC to turn on your head unit, search youtube for guides, there are a lot of them.
On a computer PSU, locate the green (should be 1) cable. Then take a cable clip, or anything similar in metal and stort cut it to any black cable. This will simulate the "turn on" on computer. Then just pull the cable to turn it off.
Related
For those interested, I thought I'd share my work that saved me $10 - $30. Since I never used the USB cable that came with my 8125, I cut the cable and connected it to a cigarrette lighter plug. There are 4 wires in the USB cable (yellow,,black,green,white); 2 wires in the plug(red,black). Connect red to yellow, and black to black. The white and green wires can be twisted together to be out of the way, they are NOT connected to any thing. Voila! a homemade car charger that really worksP.S. Check out this website: Funformobile.com. Today animations, ringtones, all sorts of cool stuff for your 8125.Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1
12volts straight to the dome! Better stop up and batteries!
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
Take a look at this then!!! I had a camera that i droped and its in little bits, so i just cut the holder abit and now i have a phone holder for when i am flashing roms or doing other things on it!
calouro said:
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's funny, I saw the "real" car chargers, and not 1 has a "built-in" converter or step down transformer from 12V to 5V. All it has is a cigarrette lighter plug and the charging cable like the one I made. Is the converter in the cigarrette lighter plug? I use my homemade charger every day in my truck, and have had no problems. My phone would had fried when I first tested it. If anyone else decides to make their own charger, you're doing this at your own risk. I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
hotdog53 said:
... I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Junner2003 said:
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on now, how in the heck can a converter or step down transformer be made inside a plastic cigarrette lighter plug??? Visit Cingular's accessories website for car chargers for 8125 or8525, and click on the view details located at the bottom of the car charger pic. The home charger with the big black plug has a converter to step down 120V. I used the pistol type cigarrette lighter plug. Where can I get 1 for 5 bucks? I'll buy it for a spare.
Almost every vehicles electical system runs on a +12V DV Current. A standard cigarete lighter is 12volts. and does not have a transformer. By tying in the usb cable directly to the cars 12V system you are now stuffing massive amounts of electricity into your phone at an unregulated rate. It is highly likely you will burn out sensitive resisters and capaciters in the phone because they are very small and not designed to handle the current. Also charging a battery too fast is bad for it regardless of NmHi, Nicad or Lithiom. If you charge rate "amps" is too high you'll permanently damage battery cells "cook" them. One thing also is that it could actualy draw current from your phone. What I mean is that your phone may plug into the cable and show that it's charging but it's actually draining the battery.
I'd spend the $14 at walmart for the motorola "mini usb style" charger...
Option "b" is to buy a cheap power inverter that converts the current from dc to ac and you will be able to plug in your standard wall charger.
Thanks for this very informative reply. I've used my homemade charger for several days now, and my battery has no problem charging from the home charger. True, the cigarrette lighter is 12V, but the vehicle's voltage regulator controls the amount of voltage that is put into these 12V receptacles. For safety, a fuse would blow before anything drastic happened.
Yeah, but if my truck's Not running, what does the voltage regulator do? NOTHING! Hey everybody who replied and read this thread, I stand corrected and apologize for my sarcasm and knowing all! The protection IS in the plug, and fortunately the pistol plug I used was from another phone car charger. I agree with all the rest...DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN!SORRY EVERYONE!!Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1
Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!
Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!
jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.
frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!
shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.
The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.
Well I finally got my Nexus 7 installed in my car dash.
It is being powered by the 12 volt socket from the pogo pins when the car is on.
I have the 3.5mm jack running to my headunit which is mounted under the seat acting as an amp.
Something strange is that before I connected my ground for the headunit, I plugged in the audio jack from the Nexus, and it turned on the head unit. It seems the 3.5 audio is grounding to the Nexus and turning the headunit on. I am sure this is part of the issue.
Everything sounds great when the car is off, but if I 1. put my lights on, I hear a buzzing, and when I turn the car on,
I get this high pitched squeal that fluctuates which the speed of the engine.
Would a ground loop isolator placed along the 3.5mm line help solve this?
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Jeremi1023 said:
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Solutions Etcetera said:
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Jeremi1023 said:
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------
BTW the unit is fused on the input AND output sides, and the isolating module will absorb spikes as well. It is well made and will supply your Nexus with the cleanest power possible. It's quite the deal for twenty bones.
Solutions Etcetera said:
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just to make sure I got this right,
the connectors circled in red would go to the pos and neg of the pogo pins on the Nexus,
and the connectors circled in yellow would go to the power and ground of the vehicle?
This would stop the alternator whine I'm currently hearing?
Yup.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran into this issue when hooking up a bluetooth receiver in my truck, where things like the door locks would drive it nuts. I was gonna build one but couldn't source the parts for less than this guy offers the thing ready made.
hy i want to use the player on two screens (living- & bedroom)
but only carry the player between the rooms.
asus & google decided not to use micro usb plugs
but this outdated, not changeable, special wall plug.
anybody knows a spare wall plug that i can use in the
other room to quickly change rooms with the NP
(eg start a movie in living room & watch it till end in bedroom)
thank you
The power supply is labeled 12V / 1.5A, with one of the smaller barrel plugs. Appears to be a 4mm x 1.7mm plug.
You can use an adapter to 5.5mm if you have an extra 12V power supply lying around, or buy a new 12V 2A power supply
Constantly moving a non-portable device between rooms seems time-consuming and likely to wear out the connectors. Maybe you should get a Chromecast for the other room instead?
You do know that USB is 5v and the nexus player needs 12v...............
Hi all, I am trying to connect my android Headunit to an atx power supply. I connected the positive from the psu to the Yellow (positive) and Red (ACC) connectors (bridged together) on the quadlock of the iso connector, and gnd from psu to gnd on the quadlock. The unit turns on for a second and then it immediataly turns off, everytime i power on the psu. The 12V are regularly transmitted. I don't understand if i have to connect/bridge other pins on the iso connector, for the canbus decoder thing, to let the stereo turn on correctly; can someone give me some help please? I gave searched everywhere and asked in other similar thread of many months ago, but with no luck. Thanks in advance.
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
pwood999 said:
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, of course i made the bridge with the green and black wires on the psu, so it turns on without a pc motherboard, and as i said the 12v are regularly transmitted to the Headunit, i also tested it with a multimeter. The Headunit turns on for a second then it turns off; so considering that in another thread someone suggested to bridge the canbus pins, or something like that, i asked what i have to do exactly to let the car stereo turn on correctly. Unfortunately there are no documentations in the forums, or I could't find anything specifically related. Hope that someone can give me detailed instructions, because i don't want to burn my Headunit.
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
pwood999 said:
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it in the car, it turns on correctly. I think I will let it go, too risky, no precise info about it...
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
Gesendet von meinem MHA-L29 mit Tapatalk
Check your connections again, I hooked mine up to a SATA power cable from my atx psu using crocodile clips, I would recommend double checking your connections
Yellow 12v lead from SATA power to yellow and red on the head unit, black ground from SATA to black cable on head unit.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
hercules123 said:
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
Gesendet von meinem MHA-L29 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And for the pull-it-outta-your-ass award...
???
Do you have a canbus on the wire block if so you need to trigger that to a live feed