Database Users

Kensington 4-port Charger and Treo Pro

Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!

Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!

jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
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Click to collapse
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.

I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.

frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
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Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!

shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.

The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.

[Tut] Make car charger behave as "charger" instead of "computer"

As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.

http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg

Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post

Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?

pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
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+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+

Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.

samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
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I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
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Click to collapse
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
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Click to collapse
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.

kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
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From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
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It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.

"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.

I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable

pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it

So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!

atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone

Emergency charger and Tytn II

Hello, I've just bought an emergency charger for my Kaiser. It takes the power from an AA battery and gives the USB voltage in the output. It works great with my Mio A 501, but doesn't work at all with the Kaiser. I did a quick search and found this in a discussion about car chargers:
Are you using the HTC charger or an OEM one?
The HTC charger works all the time the OEM ones don't - the reason being that if you use a normal Mini USB cable, the handsets will only take a charge if there is an indication of a data connection (either than gprs or the cable) - otherwise it won't take a charge.
You can apparently solder a couple of wires together on a normal mini USB cable - but I wouldn't know where to start on that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I've already heard of that, for example, a Play Station Portable needs the data wires in the USB grounded in order to charge. Is it the same with Kaiser? (putting three wires together isn't a big deal) Or is there an easier way how to make it charge?

So, I gave it a try and soldered the data wires with the ground wire. But when I try to charge the Kaiser, a yellow led starts to glow (which it didn't with the original cable) and, after a minute or two, the led goes off and Kaiser stops charging. When I turn the Kaiser off and then plug the cable in, the yellow led doesn't go off. However, when I turn Kaiser back on to check the battery meter (after about half an hour), I find out that the battery didn't take any charge at all. So, could anyone tell me what the problem is?
thanks, Mike
PS.: Adding some photos of the wires...

Probably because of the voltage...
Hey!
Have you checked the output voltage of this charger? Standard charger outputs 5V. If yours outputs less - the battery won't charge; if outputs more - you may "burn" your PDA chipsets
5V - 5.5V is safe range.

I found this on thinkgeek.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/cellphone/b43f/
It says for iPhone, but sure it would work just fine with other devices that have issues.

had a same problem but using it in the car...
when i got my tytn2 i immediately bought a car charger and the salesman told it's an original one, said output 5v 1A.. when using in the car it charged for a minute or two and went off... than i got from ebay a micro usb 1A charger (used for iPhone too) and tried in the car-> it work flawlessly

My Mod: Extended 2400mah battery with induction charging

I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.

Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.

Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?

Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
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Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.

this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!

veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).

that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.

nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!

PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
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Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.

I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.

Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.

FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.

Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.

Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?

I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.

Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html

Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html

I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)

bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.

Nexus 7 Car Charger Issue

Hey all, quick question.
I have my Nexus 7 installed in my car. Originally it was getting power from a 500mah USB car charger, but it didn't provide enough power to the tablet when running GPS/maps, etc.
So I bought an "8Ware Dual USB Car Charger 5V/2A" to try. I plugged it in, and the tablet doesn't detect it or charge from it. However I can plug my Galaxy S3 into it and it charges fine.
Really confused about this - it makes no sense.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!

I understand your frustration and it sucks!!
But sometimes even when it says UNPLUGGED and NOT CHARGING, just leave it there for 30-60 minutes. You might see that your battery actually increase... This happens with my Griffin PowerJolt Dual USB car charger also.
You can either blame the device or you can start blaming other issues like the charger, the usb cable etc but for me, I blame primarily on the device.
- Charles

chaddeus said:
I understand your frustration and it sucks!!
But sometimes even when it says UNPLUGGED and NOT CHARGING, just leave it there for 30-60 minutes. You might see that your battery actually increase... This happens with my Griffin PowerJolt Dual USB car charger also.
You can either blame the device or you can start blaming other issues like the charger, the usb cable etc but for me, I blame primarily on the device.
- Charles
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that. I tried plugging it in for a while but it definitely didn't get a charge.

Hey All.. I looked forever to find a solution. The Targus 2A car charger has a small (3") adapter cable that comes with it purportedly for Galaxy Tab. That little cable with the data wires shorted on the device end allows the N7 to be charged from ANY 2A car charger. I'm using the adapter with a Scosche dual 2.1 Amp Car Charger
Adapter picture
Targus Charger
Edit: I just built a usb cable with the data wires shorted on the Nexus end (cut, strip, short micro usb end green and white, remake connections red to red and black to black, insulate splices individually, wrap all in electrical tape or heat shrink for strength and beauty) and it works with all chargers. Took about 20 minutes.