Database Users

Power requirements of Universal

When I plug my MDA Pro into my PC it draws 460mA of current at 4.75V and the orange charging light always comes on.
I have bought a car charger - when the MDA Pro is plugged into that it also draws 460mA at 5.04V but the Pro doesn't always seem to realise it is being charged - the orange charging light doesn't come on and the backlight switches off so I cant see the SatNav! (when the light goes off the current goes down to 430mA)
The charger was bought of eBay from shop4hardware/PCglobe for £9.99 and it looks well made.
Any ideas what is going wrong? Has anyone got a 12V charger they are happy with - if so where did it come from and how much??
ceemjay the tight fisted

I bought a car charger off eBay, and while the orange light does come on and stay on, it doesn't seem to charge very effectively. If i'm using something like TomTom the charger manages to keep the battery charge level just about constant, rather than building up charge.
Is this a problem with the Universal? I had a Blue Angel before the Universal, and the car charger I had for that was very effective.
Cheers
Rowan

I had this problem too and solved it by purchasing an "orange" (UK mobile phone operator) branded charger for 10 quid from one of their shops. I have no issues now.
What i did notice when I had the problem was by ensuring the xda was off prior to plugging in the old charger, it would continue to stay orange when turned on. I think this problem is a common one with the usb cable & car charger adaptors combo.

i bought one from expansys, what i noticed:
1. It takes a lot of jiggling, pushing, pulling and twisting to get it recognised by the device (organge light on)
2. When it charges, it does so slowly, i think about 1% per 10 minutes or so, or about 10% per hour.
My two bobs worth anyway.

Many of the mini USB car chargers are simply not powerful enough to charge these devices. They all have the same voltage but the amps are different. I read somewhere that good M5000 car chargers should be rated at 1amp, I'm not sure about this but I've certainly had trouble with ones at around 600mah.
With the under powered chargers you often have to plug them in while the device is switched off. Even then it's not going to charge as well or as quickly. Getting them to start charging without turning you device off is just down to luck and patience.
My advice is to look for chargers that are specific for the M5000 etc. If it also mentions Motorola phones etc, then it's not going to have the required power output.
I hope this helps...
I bought an ORA one from a service station (phone bitz type shop), it was a bit expensive but I needed one in a hurry and you can test them in the store.

as per my earlier post - m5000 is orange branded htc universal, aka o2 xda exec. I believe mine stated it was for the spv500 and it still worked fine...

The universal wants a 2 amp charger really. the 0.5 amp from most chargers including USB ports just is not enough to do much more than stop your battery draining whilst your universal is in use !! other useful alternatives include the charger meant for the newish blackberry

Thanks for all the comments.
The charger that comes with the Pro is rated at 1A however I believe the USB spec only allows up to 500mA to be drawn (as I orginally posted it draws just below that) and I have never had a problem with charging via USB. Hence my confusion!
Is the charging software controlled and might there may be a bug which manifests itself under circumstances?
Clive

The Brodit active holder charges the universal first time everytime, and is a very good place to store the phone on the move. I've got a 3.5mm input on my car stereo and use my phone as my in car music source. If I could get a 3.5mm 4 pole to 3.5mm stereo plug and breakout mic it would be perfect since I could use it as decent handsfree solution, voice command can still use the built in mic when the stereo connection is inserted but the phone app doesn't.

The Brodit holders are nice. I prefer the unpowered version, so I use a separate charger cable. But I agree good holders.

USB charging

My new M3100 is great, apart from one thing. I seem unable to charge it using any of the three in-car adapters I have that worked a treat with my Prophet.
Anyone know if this is an issue, or just specific to my M3100 (which appears to not be charging properly even when on USB or mains adapter)?
Cheers,
Sam

i have tried 2 different USB car chargers and neither have worked. Last one was 1A but still no joy.

Did you drain up the batt? I mean, was it full discharged when you attemped to recharge it? I have the same problem, no way to recharge it, at least the orange light doesn't show up.
If i try it at home, no prob. But what with a usb? no way

There are issues with some car charger USB connections.
I do not suffer this problem because I find it very useful to have an "inverter" permanently in the car. For those that have not seen these, it is a device that converts the battery voltage to mains supply voltage. This allows you to plug in as if you were at home. Handy for your hermes, laptop, phone etc etc without the hassle of special in car setups - just plug in with your normal mains plug. Most of these devices just plug into your cigarette lighter socket, although I have mine permanently wired in - so I also have the socket still available.
here is a UK example but I imagine they are available for all countries:
http://www.caravantechnology.com/pr...&selection=1&gclid=CMn-1fXq1YoCFR2UEAodLSvYLw
There is a known issue on car charging where the device will only charge when switched off. If this is your problem see the wiki here or my link below.
http://michael channon
Mike

I've had that problem too. Strangely enough, restarting my 8525 gets the car charger to start working

try powering off your unit, it will get the orange light. Turn it back on after 5 mins and the charging will hold. not sure why.

I was having the same problem as mentioned above with a usb car charger that came with my GPS, however I just received my car charger from HTC FINALLY! With the HTC car charger and home charger, I have no issues charging the Hermes where I sometimes run into problems with say a generic motorola or igo power adapter - these sometimes require me to restart my device before charging begins.
By the way, I am going on a trip where I'll be away from power for 4 days ... can anyone recommed a portable cell phone charger that runs either off of AA batteries or solar power?

I think there is another thread about this somewhere, but I don't have time to look it up. I've had this same problem with several chargers that worked fine on my Cingular 8125 (HTC Wizard). History is that there is a firmware issue on the TyTN that checks for a data pin in the USB interface coming from the charger, and if it doesn't have the right voltage on it, the phone doesn't charge. When you totally power down the device (holding down power button for a while and then hitting yes to the power down question), then the charger works. It's when the device is in standby that it doesn't work right, because the firmware checks for the pin to be correct, doesn't find it, and disables the charging circuitry.

TytN II Not charging with Brodit active carholder - What's wrong?

I bought a Brodit Carholder (without cigarette lighter plug) and when i put the TytN II in it the batterycharge lamp blinks but the battery don't really charge.
So I send the Brodit active carholder back for RMA. Yesterday I received a brand new one this time with sigarette lighter plug. But I have the same thing, charging lamp blinks, even the system/energy says the TytN II is charging, but he isn't really.
I did also a hard reset but the result stays the same.
I also marked 'charging with computer connected' on and off.
Brodit tells that my serie is not affected with the bug like in the sticky post in this forum.
I have also a standard cigarette lighter plug with standard mini-USB 5 volt output and this thing works great. The TytN II charges very fast then. Also connected with my computer it charges fine, and also with the included normal 220V/5V charger. Just with the Brodit carholder it does NOT charge.
All tests (except the normal 220V/5V charger) in the same car of course.
Should I try a third carholder or is it possible that there is something wrong with the USB port of my TyTN II? (I guess not because it charges good with a normal standard cigarette mini USB charger ... ?)
I'm desperate. Thanks for any advises!
Johan

Vervaeck , see my post over at modaco http://www.modaco.com/content/HTC-Kaiser-Kaiser-MoDaCo-com/261974/Major-Car-Charging-Issue/.
Not sure what's going on, but there's definitely something not quite right.

answered here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=343951

nm8: that supposes that the phone does not charge at all, not simply not through the brodit. There seems to be an issue with some car chargers not charging the handset. Read my post over at modaco to see what I mean.

@squiggs1982
Wow, seems I'm not alone. Weird that some TyTN II's seems to work with Brodit, others don't. But on your link I found indeed the same problem described, but NO solution, or am I wrong?
@nm8
Sorry, but I read very well that sticky post and before I mailed to Brodit with my serial and they answered that it was no problem with my serial nr.
It is also not a question of power capacity, I tryed the brodit with a labo 5V 2A stabylasid transformator. It was not working either. 2A is for sure enough.
(excuse my bad english)

Strange, i just installed my BRODIT carholder (no cigrette lighter version), and it charges perfectly. Orange light glows, and the icon shows its charging.
vervaeck said:
I bought a Brodit Carholder (without cigarette lighter plug) and when i put the TytN II in it the batterycharge lamp blinks but the battery don't really charge.
So I send the Brodit active carholder back for RMA. Yesterday I received a brand new one this time with sigarette lighter plug. But I have the same thing, charging lamp blinks, even the system/energy says the TytN II is charging, but he isn't really.
I did also a hard reset but the result stays the same.
I also marked 'charging with computer connected' on and off.
Brodit tells that my serie is not affected with the bug like in the sticky post in this forum.
I have also a standard cigarette lighter plug with standard mini-USB 5 volt output and this thing works great. The TytN II charges very fast then. Also connected with my computer it charges fine, and also with the included normal 220V/5V charger. Just with the Brodit carholder it does NOT charge.
All tests (except the normal 220V/5V charger) in the same car of course.
Should I try a third carholder or is it possible that there is something wrong with the USB port of my TyTN II? (I guess not because it charges good with a normal standard cigarette mini USB charger ... ?)
I'm desperate. Thanks for any advises!
Johan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Try this
TYTN users (Hermes) have a similar issue where the phone charges intermittently from the car charger. Usually if you do a soft reset it starts to charge but not always. My imate branded Hermes has this issue but the europeon equivalent does not - figure that out? Anyways, I bought the following to resolve it: http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main.asp?unit=i-mate_JASJAM-650&area=accessories-lil%27+sync%AE+cable+accessories&item=LSP%2DDUOADPT01
I just bought the Kaiser yesterday and will report back how it behaves to verify the above.

I had a similar issue with my brodit active holder in one car I used.
Instead I got the passive brodit holder and did my passive to active mod on it using a 3-in-1 splitter and an HTC car charger. Works perfectly in all cars I have tried it in so far.
I think it is an issue to do with your alternator not being earthed properly or something. Do you have an aux in on your car stereo? If you do and you plug the Kaiser in to the aux socket and play music on the Kaiser, do you hear a whine through the speakers when you accelerate? If so, look up "Alternator Whine".

Okay turns out, my Brodit charger is NOT charging at all.
IT shows that it is charging, but does nto charge the battery one bit. Using the AC adapter charges, as does the USB cable on my computer.
Waht the hell.

This post is not specific to TyTN II but it might be true for it:
http://www.4winmobile.com/forums/hermes-black-rom-support/11607-black-satin-problem-car-charger.html

I installed a Brodit active carholder today (fixed install, not the cigarette lighter one) and I'm also not getting charge. Only difference is I'm not getting anything...orange charging light on the phone doesn't turn on, battery icon doesn't show charging.
My phones charges fine using USB cable on my PC so it shouldn't be the blown USB port issue.
The green light on the Brodit charging box is on. If I measure power on the pins of the 6 pin molex connector, I get 5.34V on the red wire and 5.30V on the yellow wire. I get no voltage on the other three wires. Is this right? The 4pin Molex is not used, right?

Fourgig said:
I installed a Brodit active carholder today (fixed install, not the cigarette lighter one) and I'm also not getting charge. Only difference is I'm not getting anything...orange charging light on the phone doesn't turn on, battery icon doesn't show charging.
My phones charges fine using USB cable on my PC so it shouldn't be the blown USB port issue.
The green light on the Brodit charging box is on. If I measure power on the pins of the 6 pin molex connector, I get 5.34V on the red wire and 5.30V on the yellow wire. I get no voltage on the other three wires. Is this right? The 4pin Molex is not used, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats correct. The 4pin molex is for GPS modules requiring power.
I was waiting until the new year to check back with the person i bought it from to figure out what the hell is wrong with this thing.

Got off the phone from the representative for proclips, and they are talking to sweden.
Looking forward to resolution.

I submitted a support email a few days ago and I'm waiting for a response from them. Will probably give them a call tomorrow though. I figure if they get a bunch of calls about this issue, maybe it will light a fire under their butts and get them to resolve this quickly.

Kensington 4-port Charger and Treo Pro

Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!

Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!

jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.

I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.

frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!

shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.

The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.

how to charge htc 8125 with no original usb cable and(or) without orig. wall charger

hi there.
shortly-i have this phone with no orig. usb cable and with no wall charger. it was friend of mine phone actualy. given to me with dead battery (i am not sure but i have trouwn it away long time ago)
first I did was to wait until friends of mine from china had sent to me 2 batteries compitable with the phone. what i discovered is that a normal ordinar usb cable cant charge the phone's battery it only can connect to the pc.
second what i did is this: i found my old charger from a very old panasonic cell phone and had a try to make the charging process with the simply contacting corresponding pinouts of the battery to the +&- of this same charger (somehow i dissasembled the plug of that charger and it became more "comfortable" to get in touch to the pinouts of the specific cingular's battery)
that unordinar way i did discovered that i can charge these batteries even not sure how much appropriate that other brand wall charger is. It seems its pretty much the same as a power characteristics.
Meanwhile (as i dont use this phone) i had some free time to search the net and to have better idea about that strange unordinar power charging matter with that model of a phone. The situation is that i cant find a place nearby me to buy a cheap usb and wall charger and become using this nice device finaly.
And also i dont want to buy these cable things before clearly understand why this happens ..
I did try also to charge this phone with a HTC brand wall charger but no sucsess again cause it seems this wall charger is for other htc phone (even same mini usb plug and same characteristics)
What i need is to have answers by someone very informed about that matter and let me know what exactly is the specific power charging matter (need explanations i mean) with this phone. If sharing some good ideas about how to remake others usb cable or wall charger for geting it work along for me in such a case , i will appreciate this very much
thanks

charge
hi ! please forgive me for my bad english! in this case you can charge your phone in 1 way! you need to procure a motorola or any charger with same socket but attention the charger must have 6 volts and no less than 500 mAh(milli amps)! you cut the wires and one wire put on the + of the battery you will see the signs on the battery an one wire at the - no matter which one. and you need stay with the wires 3 - 4 minutes on the battery ! then you put the battery on the phone it will start and then you cand fully charge it with the usb cable ! good luckk ! i hope my inf will help you!

no
no it doesnt work that way.
what i need is the simple answer : what is so special into the pinouts of htc cingular 8125 wall charger?
thats what i need only. Then I might figure out how to proceed
Thanks anyway

I don't know if anyone else has had trouble doing what I have done, but I've got the Cingular 8125 (HTC Wizard 100), which is also known as the HTC 8125.
1. I bought a car charger at a convenience store for $6 that had the mini-USB plug. It worked like a charm. Never any problem there.
2. I also bought a standard USB to mini-USB cable from the local computer store, because I had lost mine, and it also worked fine for both synchronization and for charging.
3. I bought a second wall charger, buying a standard mini-USB wall charger sold pretty much everywhere cellular phone chargers are sold. It's a common charging port, and this generic worked for me as well.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had problems with these types of devices not properly charging the unit.
Even my USB cable for my portable USB hard drive will power my unit.
EDIT: About your problem with it not charging. I had that problem about a year ago, when my battery got extremely old. It wouldn't charge even with the original charger. I just needed a new battery. The batteries get old and stop taking a charge after a certain amount of use. How long this takes depends on how heavily the batteries are used. They, like car batteries, do not last forever.

I had this problem when I had my wiz too. The battery died and drained, and my phone refused to charge it. I took it to an AT&T service center, and they had no clue what the problem was, and they wanted to issue me a replacement (it was a G4, I had a G3, I wasn't about to fiddle with that at the time.) So I asked to borrow a demo device they had there to fix it. I charged my battery on their demo device no problem, got it up to 3%, and finished charging it through my USB cable in the car socket.
It appears to be a sort of one-in-every-few-or-so type condition, but I got hit with it.

seems like noone can tell me if something special inside the mini-USB plug.
i realy cant charge. Very nice device, but i cant make it charging up whit cables.
guys, from up there, say that nothing special about the charging cables, but i trust what i see not what i read.

Perhaps there is a problem with your USB port on the device? USB charging has standards, and all devices that need power from a USB port have the same power pin configuration. Otherwise, they can't call it a USB connection. It would have to be called a proprietary connection, and they would have to change the plug size/dimensions and pins.
If there isn't a problem with your battery (which is the most likely source of your problem), then it may be a loose connection on your USB connector. This happens with a number of devices.
If a sync cable connects to the PC but will not charge the battery, then you definitely have an unusual pin detachment of some sort, or a bad battery.

thanks again..
for pity i was writing a lot to make my recent post and finaly it desapeared cause my session was left.. its funny in some case, but now i just dont want to repeat all what was intended to be posted
i give only the link where you might see why i was assuming that this is a kind of a special matter here with that htc 8125 charging
//pinouts.ru/CellularPhones-A-N/razrv3_charger_pinout.shtml
so, any more help will be appreciated a lot
thanks

SOLVED: HTC Wizard (Cingular 8125) Dead Battery Wont Charge
Dozzen said:
hi ! please forgive me for my bad english! in this case you can charge your phone in 1 way! you need to procure a motorola or any charger with same socket but attention the charger must have 6 volts and no less than 500 mAh(milli amps)! you cut the wires and one wire put on the + of the battery you will see the signs on the battery an one wire at the - no matter which one. and you need stay with the wires 3 - 4 minutes on the battery ! then you put the battery on the phone it will start and then you cand fully charge it with the usb cable ! good luckk ! i hope my inf will help you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi - Too bad for the OP that asked questions but did not listen to this brilliant post.
I have confirmed that a variation of this method works perfectly! I have an old Cingular 8125 that I have been trying to charge for over a year using various USB chargers and NONE would charge the device.
The reason that this may happen is that the original charger has an output of 1 full amp which is much higher than most chargers. The voltage is the same but you need a charger that can handle such a strong current draw.
Nearly all USB chargers can only handle around 250milliamps - 500milliamps which is about half the power needed to breathe life into a fully discharged battery.
The best solution is to NEVER let the battery fully discharge.
Here are the details of what I did:
1. Find the best match charger of 5-6 DC Volts and ability to put out as close to one amp (1000mA) as possible. I chose an old Sanyo SCP-07ADT that is rated at DC 5.4V at 800mA. The plug can be any type, no need to be USB.
2. Cut the connector off the end of the cable and strip the outer black part up about an inch and then strip the positive and negative (red / black respectively) wires up about a millimeter, just enough to have bare metal ends to touch to a small area.
3. Take your battery out of the phone, look at the back of battery for the + and - marks which correlate to one of the metal connection points on your battery, this is where you will "touch" or "attach" the bare ends of the wires.
4. Plug the charger in making sure not to short your bare leads. Before you do this double check that the OUTPUT of your charger is indeed DC voltage so that you don't hurt yourself. You do not want AC output and it can be dangerous.
Then touch the bare end of the red wire to positive of battery, and black wire to negative terminal of your battery. I held them with my fingers while surfing the web for about five or ten minutes. I had no idea if anything was happening or not but it "felt" like the battery might have gotten just a bit warmer.
5. Unplug the home-made bare wire charger and put battery in your phone. Quickly attach a USB charger or just plug into a USB cable of your computer. I pushed it in and nothing happened at first but finally I heard the standard "bleep" when you plug a USB device in. I knew that I made progress because it never beeped before it took about 30 seconds and several "bleeps" of connecting/disconnecting from USB but eventually the charge light stayed on!
It's been about 30 minutes and I'm up to about 50% charge and been using the phone heavily while charging.
So, in summary... never let your battery discharge below 5% or you can only charge it with an OEM cable rated at 1amp (rare). IF you let it discharge to "dead" then charge for 5-10 minutes with the "wire" method and then charge normally!
Thanks to Dozzen for the original idea!!

Wizard that won't charge
When my Wizard/HTC 8125 goes dead my cure for the battery is to use a 9 volt charger with the wires stripped back also. But, my method is a bit different. I place a standard Christmas Tree light bulb (the newer small ones)in series with the charger wires. Observe the correct polarity. The battery is labeled + and - so that part is easy. By using the small light bulb you are doing 2 things. 1.You can see the slight glow from the bulb and know that proper connection is made. 2. You are limiting the charging current to the battery.
If you get really creative like I did you can solder a couple of small nails or in my case a set of red and black probes to the setup and the points on these nails/probes make for much easier connections. Note.... This method may take a few minutes longer but, is much easier on the battery.
In my experience once the battery is below a certain level NO charger that I plug in will work. I just purchased a used 8125 from eBay and brought it back to life most successfully with this method.

hy there my htc wizard battery whos dead so i charched with a cable with + and - the phone starts but when i try to connect to a usb or a adaptor it doesnt charge anymore it show me the charge icon on the baterry but it doesnt charge the usb works fine it's sync to my pc but it doesnt charge anymore... what sould i do?

So it seems no one touched on what really matters here.
A design flaw, in my opinion. The HTC Wizard cannot recharge via USB unless there is enough power to turn on. The reason is because it requires the OS to charge.
So, what many people already posted are very creative ways to charge your 8125. The easiest and cheapest way, in my opinion, is to use AA batteries.
1) Take two AA batteries and tape together so they are in series. Imagine it like this... [- AA battery #1 +][- AA battery #2 +]
2) Use two wires and tape one to each side of the AA's (one on the + side and another on the other battery's - side since the - of the first battery is connected to the + of the second).
--w-i-r-e--[- AA battery #1 +][- AA battery #2 +]--w-i-r-e--
3) Connect the positive (+) wire to the positive (+) side of the phone. By this I mean the 6 metal pieces that stick out to contact the phone battery. I did it by wrapping the wire around the top most one (or second top most, it's been over a year since I've done this.).
4) Connect the negative (-) wire to the negative (-) side of the phone. Again, bottom most or second bottom most (see #3).
5) Insert phone battery while the wires are still in and connected to the two AAs.
6) Let the power flow for 30 seconds or so and then try turning your phone on. This part is the important part because you cannot use a USB to mini-USB connected to your computer to charge the phone unless the operating system can function. Meaning, it needs to be turned on first.
7) Once the phone is on, plug in the mini-USB part and connect it to a computer. I'd recommend getting at least 5% battery before disconnecting the AAs, seeing as you need to be able to start up your phone long enough for the OS to boot. Once the OS boots, you can fully charge it through a normal USB to mini-USB connection on any computer.

old post but just wanted to say thanks. Used the wire to battery method and got phone turned on after 2 mins of holding wires to battery.