hy i want to use the player on two screens (living- & bedroom)
but only carry the player between the rooms.
asus & google decided not to use micro usb plugs
but this outdated, not changeable, special wall plug.
anybody knows a spare wall plug that i can use in the
other room to quickly change rooms with the NP
(eg start a movie in living room & watch it till end in bedroom)
thank you
The power supply is labeled 12V / 1.5A, with one of the smaller barrel plugs. Appears to be a 4mm x 1.7mm plug.
You can use an adapter to 5.5mm if you have an extra 12V power supply lying around, or buy a new 12V 2A power supply
Constantly moving a non-portable device between rooms seems time-consuming and likely to wear out the connectors. Maybe you should get a Chromecast for the other room instead?
You do know that USB is 5v and the nexus player needs 12v...............
Related
For those interested, I thought I'd share my work that saved me $10 - $30. Since I never used the USB cable that came with my 8125, I cut the cable and connected it to a cigarrette lighter plug. There are 4 wires in the USB cable (yellow,,black,green,white); 2 wires in the plug(red,black). Connect red to yellow, and black to black. The white and green wires can be twisted together to be out of the way, they are NOT connected to any thing. Voila! a homemade car charger that really worksP.S. Check out this website: Funformobile.com. Today animations, ringtones, all sorts of cool stuff for your 8125.Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1
12volts straight to the dome! Better stop up and batteries!
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
Take a look at this then!!! I had a camera that i droped and its in little bits, so i just cut the holder abit and now i have a phone holder for when i am flashing roms or doing other things on it!
calouro said:
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
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That's funny, I saw the "real" car chargers, and not 1 has a "built-in" converter or step down transformer from 12V to 5V. All it has is a cigarrette lighter plug and the charging cable like the one I made. Is the converter in the cigarrette lighter plug? I use my homemade charger every day in my truck, and have had no problems. My phone would had fried when I first tested it. If anyone else decides to make their own charger, you're doing this at your own risk. I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
hotdog53 said:
... I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
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Click to collapse
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Junner2003 said:
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on now, how in the heck can a converter or step down transformer be made inside a plastic cigarrette lighter plug??? Visit Cingular's accessories website for car chargers for 8125 or8525, and click on the view details located at the bottom of the car charger pic. The home charger with the big black plug has a converter to step down 120V. I used the pistol type cigarrette lighter plug. Where can I get 1 for 5 bucks? I'll buy it for a spare.
Almost every vehicles electical system runs on a +12V DV Current. A standard cigarete lighter is 12volts. and does not have a transformer. By tying in the usb cable directly to the cars 12V system you are now stuffing massive amounts of electricity into your phone at an unregulated rate. It is highly likely you will burn out sensitive resisters and capaciters in the phone because they are very small and not designed to handle the current. Also charging a battery too fast is bad for it regardless of NmHi, Nicad or Lithiom. If you charge rate "amps" is too high you'll permanently damage battery cells "cook" them. One thing also is that it could actualy draw current from your phone. What I mean is that your phone may plug into the cable and show that it's charging but it's actually draining the battery.
I'd spend the $14 at walmart for the motorola "mini usb style" charger...
Option "b" is to buy a cheap power inverter that converts the current from dc to ac and you will be able to plug in your standard wall charger.
Thanks for this very informative reply. I've used my homemade charger for several days now, and my battery has no problem charging from the home charger. True, the cigarrette lighter is 12V, but the vehicle's voltage regulator controls the amount of voltage that is put into these 12V receptacles. For safety, a fuse would blow before anything drastic happened.
Yeah, but if my truck's Not running, what does the voltage regulator do? NOTHING! Hey everybody who replied and read this thread, I stand corrected and apologize for my sarcasm and knowing all! The protection IS in the plug, and fortunately the pistol plug I used was from another phone car charger. I agree with all the rest...DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN!SORRY EVERYONE!!Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1
Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!
Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!
jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
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There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.
frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
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Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!
shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.
The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.
Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?
Why not just use an inverter and plug it into that?
Car Charger
partin_us_99 said:
Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?
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Why tear one down. You would have to completely redesign and rebuild it. The plug and wire is about all you would be able to use.
This is kinda pricey but I think this is what you want:
powerstream. com/ADC-p006. htm PST-YD100W
There is a couple of things to consider.
1. A car electrical system typically runs from about 9 volts on the low side to about 15 volts on the high side taking in consideration noise spikes maybe more in very short spikes.
2. your tablet is designed to run very close to 12 volts probably + or - 5% or 11.4 to 12.6 volts it may work okay up to + & - 10% or may not.
3. the adapter must be able to supply 12 volts @ at least 1.5 amps - you can find this value on your AC Adapter that came with your tablet.
So while the car may still run down to ~10 volts the tablet would likely have problems. Regulators normally take the input voltage and use a couple of volts to regulate. So if the input is 12 volts the output is going to be around 10 volts - to low for the tablet to work reliably. In most cases the car regulator when charging outputs around 14.4 volts. That on the other hand would work. One solution and the one I believe is used by the device from the power stream website is to use a voltage multiplier or DC to DC converter that amplifies the voltage then regulates it down to what is needed.
By the way it also comes with a bunch of plug adapters to match the jack on the tablet.
Regards,
- Phil
Found an article on hard wiring it with an add a circuit so I'm gonna do that. This isn't my first car wiring rodeo so it'll work. Thanks for all the replies I'll keep y'all updated
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda app-developers app
I used an old Nokia 636 plug that I had that has the 3X1mm tip needed and spliced it into a mini usb car adapter, that was for my Tilt2 at the time, right after the fuse so I could power my phone and A500 simultaneously. It's been working fine for over a year and a half, I still use the Tilt2 as my dash cam. The Tilt2 plug also has an extra full usb port and friends and family will occasionally use that to charge their phones on trips so that one plug powers 3 devices and works fine.
So go for it, you will be fine.
Hello
I'm hoping some USB expert can help me out here, I'm trying to make a USB to DC (2.5mm plug) cable that can supply 2A, I have the popular HP Touchpad wallcharger that's rated 5v 2A , so I took a spare quality usb cable (copper cables) it has red, black, green, white (and a big bare metal cable and aluminum wrapping, shielding probably), the DC plug end has two wires red + black, so I hook up red to red black to black (red is 5V black is ground, tested using a multimeter) but I don't seem to be getting as good of results that the stock cable I have gets, the stock cable charges the device at around 1.8 Amps , the cable I made only outputs 800ma to 1.3 amps and if I turn the brightness up it stops charging like it can't supply enough power amps (again stock cable works fine with full brightness).
I'm wondering if on the charger end I need to do something with the green, white wires they both output around 2 volts should these be shorted to the black or possibly red wires to add additional amperage?
I found a youtube video where someone made a similar PSP charger and they spliced both the green, white and blacks wires together, I just want to make sure this is correct way to do things.
youtube.com/watch?v=8WhMeZkrK8U
Btw I also purchased a pre-made cable from dealsextreme but it exhibits the same behavior where full-brightness the charging light dims and goes out on my device, I assumed the low quality of the cable was to blame or again something needs to be connected with the green, white wires.
I know similar questions have been asked before but most have dealt with USB to USB fast charging , with USB to DC I'm confused on what to do with the D- and D+ wires at the charger end should they be shorted together? or to the black cable
ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.
The cylindrical lump on some cables is a ferrite core.
Its purpose is to reduce the amount of logic-generated RF noise from finding its way onto the main span of cable and using it as an antenna.
It will not affect any aspect of charging/powering a device.
Yes, the white/green data pair are used sometimes to indicate a dedicated charger.
A dedicated charger can have more current drawn from it than a normal USB connection.
This subject is handled exhaustively here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1384253
otyg said:
ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.
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What are you trying to do, make another Touchpad charger? I assume you made sure it can supply up to 2A at 5V.
Many chargers including the HP Touchpad one IIRC short the green and white data wires and this tells the device it can draw more current. If your ohmmeter was reading 0 then that would mean they are shorted. I don't think they are tied to ground (black) just to each other.
The ferrite choke is there to suppress noise from the switching transformer so the device gets clean DC power when charging.
Thanks,
I was trying to make a cable for a Chinese tablet that cannot be charged through it's USB port and only has a 2.5mm dc power port, it seems to be pretty picky about the cable being used, so far the Stock cable to USB-DC to wall USB charger works fine (hp touchpad charger), and a true DC brick rated 2000ma , 5v to DC port works good, I wanted an extra cable to use to charge it with my HP usb charger so I ordered this from dx.com
http://dx.com/p/usb-to-2-5mm-dc-charging-cable-2538
as always I check the polarity and voltage of the cable and it showed 5.13 volts, and center pin positive, strangely when I hooked it to the tablet I saw the battery charging , at 100% I turned brightness up and ran a 3d game, suddenly I saw the red light switch on the tablet to indicate it's charging, strange since it was hooked up to power and was already fully charged, and another test battery was around 40% and I charged to around 80% I rebooted the tablet and the battery was at 40% again!, so thinking my battery died I re-hooked up the stock cable and charged to 80% rebooted again and battery was 80% , narrowed it down to the cheap dx.com cable not supplying enough amps or some short in the cable, this is when I decided to make my own cable.
In my post above, The USB cable I was using I ended up taking apart the usb male connector and found out although the cable was decent quality copper wires.. where it was making the connection at the USB male end the connector only had little push pins puncturing through the wire (two little metal prongs), they weren't soldiered or anything so I guess it was another cheap cable .
So I searched for another cable, finally I found an older usb cable that none of my devices use anymore, this cable actually had a copper metal shield I just connected red and black, left green and white alone not connected to anything, so far it is operating like the stock cable when fully charged I can run full brightness , cpu at fullspeed, and 3d game without the charger light on the tablet going on (I assume this means the tablet is getting enough power from the dc port and doesn't need to switch to battery), I haven't had time to charge the device with the cable yet, but I'm assuming it will work like intended.
I guess they don't make cables like they used to.
hey guys you can check this site out http://techno-fix.com/ . i found my pinout searches there. there are very usefull things
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
meisme12 said:
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must be DC +12. Twist yellow and red cables together and feed them with DC +12. Black cable to ground.
If it doesn't deliver enough current it wont run properly. I'm using a 12 V power block able to deliver 3,3 A.
You can even use a AT powersupply from an old PC to turn on your head unit, search youtube for guides, there are a lot of them.
On a computer PSU, locate the green (should be 1) cable. Then take a cable clip, or anything similar in metal and stort cut it to any black cable. This will simulate the "turn on" on computer. Then just pull the cable to turn it off.