Hi all, I am trying to connect my android Headunit to an atx power supply. I connected the positive from the psu to the Yellow (positive) and Red (ACC) connectors (bridged together) on the quadlock of the iso connector, and gnd from psu to gnd on the quadlock. The unit turns on for a second and then it immediataly turns off, everytime i power on the psu. The 12V are regularly transmitted. I don't understand if i have to connect/bridge other pins on the iso connector, for the canbus decoder thing, to let the stereo turn on correctly; can someone give me some help please? I gave searched everywhere and asked in other similar thread of many months ago, but with no luck. Thanks in advance.
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
pwood999 said:
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, of course i made the bridge with the green and black wires on the psu, so it turns on without a pc motherboard, and as i said the 12v are regularly transmitted to the Headunit, i also tested it with a multimeter. The Headunit turns on for a second then it turns off; so considering that in another thread someone suggested to bridge the canbus pins, or something like that, i asked what i have to do exactly to let the car stereo turn on correctly. Unfortunately there are no documentations in the forums, or I could't find anything specifically related. Hope that someone can give me detailed instructions, because i don't want to burn my Headunit.
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
pwood999 said:
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
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I tried it in the car, it turns on correctly. I think I will let it go, too risky, no precise info about it...
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
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Check your connections again, I hooked mine up to a SATA power cable from my atx psu using crocodile clips, I would recommend double checking your connections
Yellow 12v lead from SATA power to yellow and red on the head unit, black ground from SATA to black cable on head unit.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
hercules123 said:
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
Gesendet von meinem MHA-L29 mit Tapatalk
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And for the pull-it-outta-your-ass award...
???
Do you have a canbus on the wire block if so you need to trigger that to a live feed
Related
Well I finally got my Nexus 7 installed in my car dash.
It is being powered by the 12 volt socket from the pogo pins when the car is on.
I have the 3.5mm jack running to my headunit which is mounted under the seat acting as an amp.
Something strange is that before I connected my ground for the headunit, I plugged in the audio jack from the Nexus, and it turned on the head unit. It seems the 3.5 audio is grounding to the Nexus and turning the headunit on. I am sure this is part of the issue.
Everything sounds great when the car is off, but if I 1. put my lights on, I hear a buzzing, and when I turn the car on,
I get this high pitched squeal that fluctuates which the speed of the engine.
Would a ground loop isolator placed along the 3.5mm line help solve this?
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
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I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Jeremi1023 said:
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Solutions Etcetera said:
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
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Click to collapse
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Jeremi1023 said:
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
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Click to collapse
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
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BTW the unit is fused on the input AND output sides, and the isolating module will absorb spikes as well. It is well made and will supply your Nexus with the cleanest power possible. It's quite the deal for twenty bones.
Solutions Etcetera said:
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
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So just to make sure I got this right,
the connectors circled in red would go to the pos and neg of the pogo pins on the Nexus,
and the connectors circled in yellow would go to the power and ground of the vehicle?
This would stop the alternator whine I'm currently hearing?
Yup.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup.
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Well thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran into this issue when hooking up a bluetooth receiver in my truck, where things like the door locks would drive it nuts. I was gonna build one but couldn't source the parts for less than this guy offers the thing ready made.
Hi. I have a very strange question. It could have been asked and answered before. Apologies.
I am trying to install this Tablet into my car's dash. My plans are:
1. Secure it to the car stereo area
2. Run a new wire from a fuse box to power the device when the car starts and shut it down when the car is off OR tab into an accessories power line with proper power converter 12v DC to the tablet's standard output (5v?)
3. Remove the battery so that it won't melt when it gets hot in the summer
Will my plan work or you have suggestions for me. What are my options if I want to do this?
Will the unit still work if the battery is removed and only runs from the power line?
Please provide constructive advice. Thanks kindly.
Hi! Good luck with your project. I'm afraid I have no advise I just wanted to say I hope you give updates with your progress, and also that you might want to mention which model you have since there's at least three or more variants of the 8.3.
Sent from my VK810 4G
the problem with the electricity in the car is that its uneven, especially during crank and that might damage the tablet or your car. you'd also have to wait for cold boot every time you turn the car on. what you can probably do is just leave the battery and connect the tablet to a dc-usb charger and set up a tasker profile that would auto shut off screen, gps and data when there's no power connected. there's a thread here on xda of someone getting a nexus 7 fully integrated into their car. i'm trying to get one on mine as well but 7inches is just too small of a screen for my truck's dash and i'm still looking for some good alternatives. hope this helps, good luck.
Ok, it may be possible if you tie into the positive and negative battery inputs inside the case. If you do that, your dc converter needs to be at 4 volts. The battery is nominal 3.7 with 4.2 being fully charged. 5v would probably kill your device. 5v is only for usb charging input which the tablet converts to 4.2 for charging. Removing the battery and applying voltage directly bypasses this conversion circuit.
---------- Post added at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:20 AM ----------
Just be careful and understand it may not work, or you may kill your device if you mess up.
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
meisme12 said:
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must be DC +12. Twist yellow and red cables together and feed them with DC +12. Black cable to ground.
If it doesn't deliver enough current it wont run properly. I'm using a 12 V power block able to deliver 3,3 A.
You can even use a AT powersupply from an old PC to turn on your head unit, search youtube for guides, there are a lot of them.
On a computer PSU, locate the green (should be 1) cable. Then take a cable clip, or anything similar in metal and stort cut it to any black cable. This will simulate the "turn on" on computer. Then just pull the cable to turn it off.
Hi all,
So I got a secondhand Topnavi for the Mini Cooper (at least I think it's a Topnavi, there's no real markings on it). It looks exactly like this one, although running on Android 7 with a quadcore, so it's an older model.
https://www.amazon.ca/TOPNAVI-Android-7-1-Cooper-Clubman/dp/B07GNGDTNS?th=1
I'm having a problem where the unit won't power on in ACC mode, and it won't stay in sleep mode (regardless of what I set in the "Shutdown delay in ACC mode" setting) - whenever I turn off ignition, it does a full shutdown. So in order to play with it, I have to keep ignition on, which is obviously not ideal.
Would anyone have any suggestions on what I should look into? I didn't build the harness - the unit came with one for the Mini, so I would imagine the right wiring is already in place. There are some unconnected wires like P.Conn, DVR, etc., but I am guessing those go unused.
Any help welcome!
The harness will have 2 live wires, switched and permanent which on mine are red and yellow. I fixed this exact problem by switching these wires over.
Thanks. When you say switch them over - to what?
[edit] ohh reread what you said - you mean switch their positions between each other, right?
Here’s my harness btw. I can't seem to find any Mini R56 pinout diagrams, to figure this out...
Hmm. I just went through the harness on the Mini side, and I don't seem to have a switched 12V wire on it. There's one that is 12V constant, but there is no wire that goes live with ignition and dead with no ignition. I might have to look for another wire to feed into the Topnavi?...
I have gone through a recent saga of getting stuck, pulling out batteries, and finally replacing my vehicle battery at quite a hefty cost and a bunch of grief. Flat battery again, and on finally checking with my multimeter I see immediately that I'm drawing a continual 0.8 A load. Pulling the head unit fuse out immediately drops it to about 0.14A. Massive difference!
Is my head unit dodgy? I really don't want to have to install a switch if I can help it.
Argh
Maybe wrong wiring of ignition and battery. 0.8A load is when its on, 0.0A off
0.14A isnt good anyway... 3.36Ah per day. 2-3 weeks and your battery may be drained completely.
Does your head unit work fine? I mean goes sleep after turning ignition off? Do you have enabled quick boot in Android setup?
What about powering up an external amplifier? Or even FM antenna amplifier?
wotii098 said:
0.14A isnt good anyway... 3.36Ah per day. 2-3 weeks and your battery may be drained completely.
Does your head unit work fine? I mean goes sleep after turning ignition off? Do you have enabled quick boot in Android setup?
What about powering up an external amplifier? Or even FM antenna amplifier?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't sure I'd get any suggestions, thanks.
I'm a step closer possibly in finding out what's going on. I have stripped everything out of the unit (harness, usb, aerial, GPS) and when I put a multimeter between the constant input wire and the constant source (wire to my fuse box) that 0.50A load is right there.
I'm going to try connecting the constant to a separate 12v source from a spare car battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A. I doubt any difference but I'm getting desperate.
Yes it goes to sleep but the draw is still there even though nothing is obviously powered.
invertgoat said:
Wasn't sure I'd get any suggestions, thanks.
I'm a step closer possibly in finding out what's going on. I have stripped everything out of the unit (harness, usb, aerial, GPS) and when I put a multimeter between the constant input wire and the constant source (wire to my fuse box) that 0.50A load is right there.
I'm going to try connecting the constant to a separate 12v source from a spare car battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A. I doubt any difference but I'm getting desperate.
Yes it goes to sleep but the draw is still there even though nothing is obviously powered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your car has a CAN bus? And it is by coincident a VAG (audi/seat/skoda/vw)? It could very well be that the constant 12V input (BAT) and the ignition switched input (ACC) are both constant. In that case only your screen switches off but the amp keeps being powered on and that one draws the power.
Some car brands that do have a CAN bus also have a CANbus enabled radio unit. The radio gets a CAN bus signal to completely switch off. These Chinese units don't understand that.
My Skoda has that as well and I had to connect a separate wire to make my unit switch off, instead of using the harness ignition switched ACC wire.
surfer63 said:
Does your car has a CAN bus? And it is by coincident a VAG (audi/seat/skoda/vw)? It could very well be that the constant 12V input (BAT) and the ignition switched input (ACC) are both constant. In that case only your screen switches off but the amp keeps being powered on and that one draws the power.
Some car brands that do have a CAN bus also have a CANbus enabled radio unit. The radio gets a CAN bus signal to completely switch off. These Chinese units don't understand that.
My Skoda has that as well and I had to connect a separate wire to make my unit switch off, instead of using the harness ignition switched ACC wire.
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It's a 2012 Nissan NV200 unfortunately. Whether it has a canbus I'm not sure but I presume so? I tested what I believe is the ACC with a multimeter and I get a reading when the key is turned, but no when it's out so I presume that it's correct. Whereas, I get a reading on the BAT irrespective of the vehicle being on or off. So I'm fairly sure that's the BAT input I need?
The bit that confuses me is why the unit is always drawing 0.5 a through the BAT input. I'll try wiring the BAT input directly to a spare battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A
Anything I'm missing?
invertgoat said:
It's a 2012 Nissan NV200 unfortunately. Whether it has a canbus I'm not sure but I presume so? I tested what I believe is the ACC with a multimeter and I get a reading when the key is turned, but no when it's out so I presume that it's correct. Whereas, I get a reading on the BAT irrespective of the vehicle being on or off. So I'm fairly sure that's the BAT input I need?
The bit that confuses me is why the unit is always drawing 0.5 a through the BAT input. I'll try wiring the BAT input directly to a spare battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A
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If I search for "canbus nissan nv200" I immediately find systems as of 2015 models. I have no idea for your model.
It looks indeed like the BAT and ACC lines of your car are correct.
It seems to me that the harness connected to your unit is not correct.
I think the BAT line of your car connects to the ACC line of your harness/unit, and that the ACC line of your car connects to the BAT line of your harness/unit.
To me that could be the only reason why your unit still draws 0.5A over the BAT line when the ignition is off. A unit in real sleep mode should draw 10~40 mA, not 500~800 mA.
Maybe you could try cross-connecting the wires and see if it functions then. We have also seen that in the past with other units where the harness ACC and BAT wire were incorrectly connected.
Edit: Note that most units take 2-10 minutes before going into deep sleep. In some units this switch off time is even an adjustable setting.