Database Users

Homemade car charger for 8125

For those interested, I thought I'd share my work that saved me $10 - $30. Since I never used the USB cable that came with my 8125, I cut the cable and connected it to a cigarrette lighter plug. There are 4 wires in the USB cable (yellow,,black,green,white); 2 wires in the plug(red,black). Connect red to yellow, and black to black. The white and green wires can be twisted together to be out of the way, they are NOT connected to any thing. Voila! a homemade car charger that really worksP.S. Check out this website: Funformobile.com. Today animations, ringtones, all sorts of cool stuff for your 8125.Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1

12volts straight to the dome! Better stop up and batteries!

Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!

Take a look at this then!!! I had a camera that i droped and its in little bits, so i just cut the holder abit and now i have a phone holder for when i am flashing roms or doing other things on it!

calouro said:
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's funny, I saw the "real" car chargers, and not 1 has a "built-in" converter or step down transformer from 12V to 5V. All it has is a cigarrette lighter plug and the charging cable like the one I made. Is the converter in the cigarrette lighter plug? I use my homemade charger every day in my truck, and have had no problems. My phone would had fried when I first tested it. If anyone else decides to make their own charger, you're doing this at your own risk. I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.

hotdog53 said:
... I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?

Junner2003 said:
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on now, how in the heck can a converter or step down transformer be made inside a plastic cigarrette lighter plug??? Visit Cingular's accessories website for car chargers for 8125 or8525, and click on the view details located at the bottom of the car charger pic. The home charger with the big black plug has a converter to step down 120V. I used the pistol type cigarrette lighter plug. Where can I get 1 for 5 bucks? I'll buy it for a spare.

Almost every vehicles electical system runs on a +12V DV Current. A standard cigarete lighter is 12volts. and does not have a transformer. By tying in the usb cable directly to the cars 12V system you are now stuffing massive amounts of electricity into your phone at an unregulated rate. It is highly likely you will burn out sensitive resisters and capaciters in the phone because they are very small and not designed to handle the current. Also charging a battery too fast is bad for it regardless of NmHi, Nicad or Lithiom. If you charge rate "amps" is too high you'll permanently damage battery cells "cook" them. One thing also is that it could actualy draw current from your phone. What I mean is that your phone may plug into the cable and show that it's charging but it's actually draining the battery.
I'd spend the $14 at walmart for the motorola "mini usb style" charger...
Option "b" is to buy a cheap power inverter that converts the current from dc to ac and you will be able to plug in your standard wall charger.

Thanks for this very informative reply. I've used my homemade charger for several days now, and my battery has no problem charging from the home charger. True, the cigarrette lighter is 12V, but the vehicle's voltage regulator controls the amount of voltage that is put into these 12V receptacles. For safety, a fuse would blow before anything drastic happened.
Yeah, but if my truck's Not running, what does the voltage regulator do? NOTHING! Hey everybody who replied and read this thread, I stand corrected and apologize for my sarcasm and knowing all! The protection IS in the plug, and fortunately the pistol plug I used was from another phone car charger. I agree with all the rest...DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN!SORRY EVERYONE!!Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1

Lots of Alternator Whine in Car with Hero

Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?

So your alternator is humming or your hero? *jk
Could be a a frequency output of the radio. It could really be anything, there are so many electrical circuits close by to know from here. Does it whine if you put it into normal speakers?

Sounds like the 2 are getting along

When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Prius FTW
Thanks,
Bubba.

is your hero charging off the cigarette lighter?
if so, you are likely hearing noise induced from your car's electrical (charging) system.
You can:
1. try and replace the alternator with a newer one that is designed to isolate or reduce induced electrical noise. (this seems impractical and cost inefficient)
or
2. try and prevent any oscillations from getting to your phone by using a ferrite ring on your charging cord. (most practical option)
3. try an aux cable with better shielding

bubbacs1 said:
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only a whiny, butt hole-clinched effect..

check your aux cable

like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.

morbidpete said:
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+2
tenchars

I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.

mccsomthin said:
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
I also had a cheap charger that did this. I returned it and bought a Belkin Ipod charger that was simply a 12-volt usb port with an Ipod USB cable (threw the cable away). I use the stock HTC USB cable and there is zero feedback now.
An added bonus is that I can charge anything with a USB port now in my car.

I too, use an iPod charger with a usb cable. I get tons of alternator whine too. I just like to pretend that it's a turbo.
But really, I'm going to try a ferrite sometime

Actually, using a charger doesn't affect it. The alternator whine is still present in both scenarios.
How much would the length/shielding of the cables be responsible for this?
I've also done some research and come across a possible "Big 3 Upgrade" solution. Involving upgrading the 3 most important grounding wires in the car.
"Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis."

My old car used to do this. I replaced my stereo with a decent aftermarket one and the whining stopped. When I say decent I'm not talking like $500 Alpine or whatever, I just went to walmart and picked up a Sony that had an AUX input for like $100.
Since your stereo already has an AUX input it's probably already higher quality than the old stereo in my old car, but still, if you were looking for an excuse to get a new stereo this could be it.

swears11 said:
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest checking engine and body grounds to make sure they have not corroded away, most automotive manufacture's recommend replacing all grounding lines every 80-100k miles and more often in "salty air" regions. Grounds go bad first but the hot lines will also decay, more so in modern cars as the wires are subjected to more flex with the softer engine mounts used these days.
If your grounds look good and it still whines I would suggest hitting up Autozone or whatever local car shop you have and have them do a diagnostic run on the alt.
Once these two are eliminated or fixed and the whine still persists, well either you have a bad connection leading up to your 12v aux plug or line in jack, or your hardware has faulty buffer cap/resistors and is bleeding static into your devise.
I have built 5 Carputers, installed dozens of entertainment systems, done 3 ground-up rewires on cars, and fabricated completely custom wire harness for stand alone ECM system, the items I suggest are based on years of experience and frustration.
I have a 07 VW GTI with an Aux input built into the car so I use a m/m 3.5m audio jack patch cable and it so happens that the power cable for my Garmin GPS is the same connector so it gets used for the phone when it is needed.

Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.

willy900wonka said:
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There seem to be a lot of people in here knowledgeable about RFI.. are you guys electrical engineers / ham radio operators as well? Im a ham operator and have studied hours on end about RFI issues and you guys all know what you're talking about.

I had that problem using an cheap FM transmitter plugged into my Hero and the lighter. The way I fixed it was to just turn down the volume on my Hero and turning up the radio volume. Just try it to see if it works for you, too.

Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.

katmandu421 said:
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ding! was gonna suggest the exact same thing.

Any way to charge phone while listening to music in car?

i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?

generic.imitation said:
i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI

kntdookoo said:
Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a million, this is exactly what I need. I still wonder if my idea will work also tho (and here i thought I was on to something lol)

tell us more about your car stereo situation, because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter...

tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...

seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.

seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
Since his car is somewhat new im sure the grounding and electrical system is fine. This maybe his only option. I found in my company's 08 civic the humming is very loud when the DI is charging. Though, on my 07 BMW and wifes highlander I dont hear a thing...I guess different cars produce different results. A ground loop isolator does help in most cases. Even though it is a problem originating of the power source itself, this filter/isolator is worth a try.

Is a ground thang, heres the fix.
Ok I have had this issue with 5 vehicles, 6 phones, and 3 different XM units and found that just touching the ground of the vehicle to the ground of the audio device causes it to buzz, so it is a ground loop issue meaning the cool battery idea will not work. Somthing I did do in the early days that has always worked is to take one of those inverters that plugs into your lighter and puts out 110AC and plug your home adapter into that, isolates and works great. I just happened to have one so thought i would do it. The cool thing is that you do not have to buy somthing new for the car every time you change devices ;-) The other is to go bluetooth, works great.

Sounds like you may need new spark plug wires?

kntdookoo said:
Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accident? Conspiracy? Who knows??!

generic.imitation said:
Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)

seanmcd72 said:
So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.

never had the issue in any car ive owned

junjlo said:
never had the issue in any car ive owned
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've not installed many stereos then.
... I've fixed damn alternator whine noises more times than I can remember, that is for sure.

Noise suppression
Have a look at the crutchfield guide on noise suppression. just visit crutchfield.com and seach on noise suppression. I would post a l.ink but am not allowed to ..

generic.imitation said:
Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's stock, probably no reason to check any ground issues. I would check the quality of the cable you are using though...

I think it's an alternator whine like Humpa said. I'll look for a fix, maybe i can figure something out. It whines more when I hit the gas, if it is idling then I can't really hear it.

My Mod: Extended 2400mah battery with induction charging

I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.

Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.

Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?

Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.

this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!

veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).

that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.

nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!

PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.

I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.

Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.

FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.

Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.

Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?

I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.

Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html

Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html

I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)

bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.

Induction Mod Hardware Question

I've previous completed induction charging mods for my Nexus S, Droid, and Nook Color. My previous mod for my Nook has left a lot to be desired, though.
I picked up a iPhone 3GS Powermat for clearance a while back and decided to repurpose it for my Nook. So far I have all of the wiring complete (partially feeding off of the wiring from a working induction charging mod). The wiring is setup as the following:
- +5 and GND are taken from the powermat receiver.
- Wiring passes through to the micro-USB port.
Each step of the wiring seems fine - no shorts, right voltages when tested individually. I am running into issues with the final connection between the receiver and the micro-USB port, though.
Whenever the final connection is made, the powermat station is unable to communicate with the receiver. No lights, no sound. At first I though this was an issue with a faulty receiver - this idea fell apart when I tried 6 other receivers, all having the same result.
By chance has anyone attempted to use the Powermat inductive charging kits with the Nook Color like this? Any advice would be amazing!

Small update on my progress -
It seems that the Nook is attempting to draw too much current from the Powermat receiver. The base unit is responding to a handshake (had to probe the circuit board to detect it), but as soon as the receiver starts outputting 5V, the receiver itself shuts down from the current pull. I was originally thinking that if the nook does not detect the original stock cable, it would not charge at a higher amperage. Looks like directly connecting the +5V to the micro-USB's +5V pin can trigger it to quick charge.
As there seems to be not enough space for both the induction receiver and a current limiting circuit, I decided to stop using the Powermat system and switch back to my old circuit (modified Palm Pre circuit).
I did notice one thing during this attempted mod - the magnets that are found in the Powermat receiver/base are perfect for the Palm Pre Touchstone setup. I get a great hold while using those magnets without much effect on the Nook or the receiver/base combination.
Hopefully this small discovery will help some of the other hardware modders here. I'm definitely going to do more testing with standard USB cables to see if we can trick the Nook to quick charge.

I know your issue.
I won a powermat set up this morning from Duracell. Powermat, iPhone 4/4s case, and power pack. So as an Android user I immediately start disassembly of the iPhone case lol. took two minutes and a screw driver. It has the 30 pin male connector that sends power and a five pin femalemicro USB that receives power.
So I'm looking this thing over and thinking this is great, I'll solder to the USB Ports and hook it up to my i717.
Wrong.
The power output of the case is meant for iPhone which is different than that of my Samsung and any other micro USB device.
So next step, how to convert the output from apple to micro USB standard