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as my wizard is dead the cell antenna connectors are ripped from the pcb the camera is the same 9skating accident) decided to use the remains as the wifi still works to replace on of my aging inwall control panels in my house so what I want to know is can i simply wire 5v power wires in place of the battery or is there another method to provide contant power without a bettery in place?
thanks,
yonu
question if i use say a 3v wall adapter and hook it upto the battery pins like jump starting from a flat battery would this be somewhat safe on the motherboard?
It should work. Just make sure you're providing the board with the correct voltage and current.
Also, another tip: try to post your questions in shorter sentences instead of one long spiel. It makes it easier for us to understand what you're trying to do
ok here's what I want to do.
Permanently integrate a nexus 7 in my car dashboard in the double din radio opening
Remove the battery from the nexus 7 and hardwire to always on power from the car battery
Hardwire the power button to a button installed in the dash
Dashmount a usb port connected via otg for hotswapping media
Hardwire a potentiometer into the dash for volume control
all of the above is fairly simple except for power supply, otg+charging is a possible solution but a car battery wired solution is far better so what i need is information on what the battery pins supply in terms voltage/amperage so i can create a 12v to direct power converter or a device that already does this. any help is appreciated TIA
bump, if someone knows i could really use this info
b22ri22an said:
ok here's what I want to do.
Permanently integrate a nexus 7 in my car dashboard in the double din radio opening
Remove the battery from the nexus 7 and hardwire to always on power from the car battery
Hardwire the power button to a button installed in the dash
Dashmount a usb port connected via otg for hotswapping media
Hardwire a potentiometer into the dash for volume control
all of the above is fairly simple except for power supply, otg+charging is a possible solution but a car battery wired solution is far better so what i need is information on what the battery pins supply in terms voltage/amperage so i can create a 12v to direct power converter or a device that already does this. any help is appreciated TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't you just use the USB port to charge it? it takes 5V, and 2A. With a car battery it should have enough amps, the voltage is what you'd need to regulate.
But if you really want to take out the battery instead...can't you just use a volt meter to see what the N7 draws from the battery? I'd guess it's 3.7v lithium ion but I'm not positive. I couldn't find the specs on google either..
As far as I have read there are some major difficulties getting otg+charging to work at the same time and I need the storage space provided by external storage. Having the car power source replacing the nexus 7 battery would eliminate that problem altogether.
I was hoping that someone here had known the voltages since I don't currently own or have access to a multimeter to test for myself. Knowing the voltages in advance would give me the opportunity to see what would be entailed financially to build the project and determine if its its financially acceptable to me, if the project isn't viable the money spent on the multimeter to do the tests would be wasted as it's not something I need for anything other than this particular project. So in the interest of trying to save $20 I figured I would ask here first and that there was a good chance that someone might have the information I needed.
b22ri22an said:
As far as I have read there are some major difficulties getting otg+charging to work at the same time and I need the storage space provided by external storage. Having the car power source replacing the nexus 7 battery would eliminate that problem altogether.
I was hoping that someone here had known the voltages since I don't currently own or have access to a multimeter to test for myself. Knowing the voltages in advance would give me the opportunity to see what would be entailed financially to build the project and determine if its its financially acceptable to me, if the project isn't viable the money spent on the multimeter to do the tests would be wasted as it's not something I need for anything other than this particular project. So in the interest of trying to save $20 I figured I would ask here first and that there was a good chance that someone might have the information I needed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh ok..well have you taken a look at the battery? It should just be 3.7v, I don't think it would be too hard to find which pins it is. Maybe take a LED and test it across the pins?
Also, I have heard reports OTG + charging is working fine on CM10 with a patched kernel. you might want to check this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
mvmacd said:
oh ok..well have you taken a look at the battery? It should just be 3.7v, I don't think it would be too hard to find which pins it is. Maybe take a LED and test it across the pins?
Also, I have heard reports OTG + charging is working fine on CM10 with a patched kernel. you might want to check this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been participating heavily in the arena of OTG + charging simultaneously, as well as using USB audio.
To answer the OP's question directly: I have demonstrated (to myself) that I can power down my Nexus 7, disconnect the battery connector, plug in my y-splitting OTG cable with power in one plug, and an unpowered USB hub in the other plug. [Plugged into the USB hub is a flash drive, USB DAC, and I'm sure a keyboard would also be an option.] Then I turn on my Nexus 7, and in the OS it shows the battery at 0%, but charging (obviously it's not actually charging without the battery present...).
I even booted up the Nexus 7 normally, with all the same stuff connected to USB, and then disconnected the battery connector... and the Nexus 7 remained on!
I've thought about integrating some sort of tactile switch that essentially disconnects the battery whenever the switch is depressed. So then part of the car mount could be a little protrusion that presses this switch whenever the tablet is inserted into the car mount. That way whenever the tablet is removed from the car mount, the battery will take over without removing power from the motherboard.
MetalMan2 said:
I've been participating heavily in the arena of OTG + charging simultaneously, as well as using USB audio.
To answer the OP's question directly: I have demonstrated (to myself) that I can power down my Nexus 7, disconnect the battery connector, plug in my y-splitting OTG cable with power in one plug, and an unpowered USB hub in the other plug. [Plugged into the USB hub is a flash drive, USB DAC, and I'm sure a keyboard would also be an option.] Then I turn on my Nexus 7, and in the OS it shows the battery at 0%, but charging (obviously it's not actually charging without the battery present...).
I even booted up the Nexus 7 normally, with all the same stuff connected to USB, and then disconnected the battery connector... and the Nexus 7 remained on!
I've thought about integrating some sort of tactile switch that essentially disconnects the battery whenever the switch is depressed. So then part of the car mount could be a little protrusion that presses this switch whenever the tablet is inserted into the car mount. That way whenever the tablet is removed from the car mount, the battery will take over without removing power from the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, yes, I think I had you in mind when I said that.. I'm still waiting for my Y cable. I won't get it till at least 1.5 weeks..
MetalMan2 said:
I've been participating heavily in the arena of OTG + charging simultaneously, as well as using USB audio.
To answer the OP's question directly: I have demonstrated (to myself) that I can power down my Nexus 7, disconnect the battery connector, plug in my y-splitting OTG cable with power in one plug, and an unpowered USB hub in the other plug. [Plugged into the USB hub is a flash drive, USB DAC, and I'm sure a keyboard would also be an option.] Then I turn on my Nexus 7, and in the OS it shows the battery at 0%, but charging (obviously it's not actually charging without the battery present...).
I even booted up the Nexus 7 normally, with all the same stuff connected to USB, and then disconnected the battery connector... and the Nexus 7 remained on!
I've thought about integrating some sort of tactile switch that essentially disconnects the battery whenever the switch is depressed. So then part of the car mount could be a little protrusion that presses this switch whenever the tablet is inserted into the car mount. That way whenever the tablet is removed from the car mount, the battery will take over without removing power from the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am i understanding you correctly? If i unplug the battery, and just have the OTG cable plug into the charger, it would be able to power on and off and run just fine?
ho9984 said:
Am i understanding you correctly? If i unplug the battery, and just have the OTG cable plug into the charger, it would be able to power on and off and run just fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was how it worked while the N7 was running Jelly Bean 4.1.2. I can't guarantee it would operate the same on 4.2.2.
MetalMan2 said:
This was how it worked while the N7 was running Jelly Bean 4.1.2. I can't guarantee it would operate the same on 4.2.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Someone tried it on Reddit. Removed the battery and tried powering it on with only OEM charger. The screen just flickered. They were on 4.2.2
I am curious about removing the battery and hardwiring as well as I am gathering parts to put my Nexus 7 in my car dash. The problem w/ the OTG route - it gets pretty hot down here and I'm afraid the battery will have some long term issues (ie...could leak/explode). So, hardwiring it would be preferred.
Any ideas for hardwiring?
with the new nexus 7 coming out I am just going to mount the wireless charger behind the tablet dock, now I just hope otg is supported with the slimport on the new nexus 7
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
xpbr2000 said:
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone works without a battery. Maybe bypass it and connect to USB?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
sghsmorgan said:
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i could figure out what the battery supplies the phone then i could wire a 3.7v source to the battery terminals on the phone.
I've had this system wired up for a couple months and it works great. the only issue i've had is the age of this battery makes it not take a charge. so in the heat of the day i get in the car and the battery temp is 100+ the phone is dead because the battery doesn't operate. and the charger can't charge the hot battery and keep the phone powered. I never liked the idea of a battery inside the car. heat + battery = boom (maybe not but it could cause a big mess and damage the phone.
the question i need answered is what is required for the phone to run? what do each of the battery terminals do? obviously one is ground (marked) and one is positive (also marked) the middle terminal has to do with a temp or charge signal. it doesn't power on just the positive and negative to the best i can test it. maybe i'm doing it wrong.
and i have looked at a rasPI. we have one. but i can find a capacitive touch screen that is small enough to fit in my dash (4th gen camaro) without deleting my radio which isn't going to happen. plus they are expensive. idk y tablets and such are cheaper with the same type screen plus the hardware of the tablet.
Almost! Cept with a Hero!
OP: If you still have the battery, you should be able to find the Amperage listed in mHa near the voltage on the batteries sticker. After you have these 2 values you should be able to construct a small circuit to drop your cars internal voltage down to the appropriate level. Hook it up to the 12v from your car at Ignition/Accessory if you want it on whenever you can use the radio, or to the Constant 12v, after the fusebox, to have it usable whenever your car doesn't need a jump! Best of Luck!
So, I'm actually trying something similar right now except with a HTC Hero with a bloated battery that refuses to hold a charge. I've tried several times to boot the phone with just the USB cable, but all I get is a red battery icon : / I'm looking to just hardwire this stupid thing to a plug or even a 9v alternative. This is gonna be used around my house for various things
As of my posting this, I've found 3 threads on slightly similar topics, none with very good/any info tho. Thank you in advance for any help!
Can someone verify that the Nexus 7 can operates perfectly fine with the battery removed and only powered by the USB cable? I've read some threads eluding to this, but no one has confirmed. Mine is in the dash of my car so i cant verify this myself. If someone can. that would be amazing! Thank you.
look at the thread right below yours.
Old Guy said:
look at the thread right below yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread, i was still a bit confused as they were talking about USB DAC and other devices hooked up to me.
I want to make sure data can still be transferred from the same USB cable and such.
Yes, it's possible, but has some side-effects
Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 without battery from a USB-cable, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
Old Guy - look at the thread right below yours
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Threads are sorted by last post in each thread, so it's impossible to find which one you are referring to. Do you have an url?
Theory worked
I managed to connect the Nexus 7 to my computer again
I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm that this works. I didn't have any small connectors, so I hot-glued one header-pin and a female connector for a header pin on the data-wires in the USB-cable. Doesn't look good, but it works
When I have it in the car, I disconnect the header-pins on the USB-cable, and connect it to an USB power-source. When I need to connect it to the computer, I connect the header-pins and connect the battery (with the female USB-cable), and a regular USB-cable to the computer.
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but it sounds like the White and Yellow wires of the battery are for data?
if so, if I applied 3.7-4.2 volts on the battery connection and then still had a 5v connection on the USB would this work?
I would like to use Timur's ROM, and have power applied when my car is off (fixed install) for deep sleep and then apply the 5v when the car is on to bring it from the deep sleep. the issues would be faking it to not charge which I am guessing would mean to set the battery input to 4.23 volts to show as being fully charged. then when key on, the 5v would take over and you would still have the 4.23 applied at the battery connection ( probably have a diode on the + side to keep from injecting voltage to that supply
Has any one completed something like this?
The problematic usb port finally gave up on my Nexus 7 (2012). I've opened up it up, connected the black and red wires from a cut usb cable to the 1st and 4th pogo pins without removing the battery. Now charging's fast and stable..
Added: Tried 5v2a charging, it doesn't melt anything.. Fully charged in just slightly over1 hour.
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use the factory image to update your nexus 7. It's just a bit more work.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you use to get the voltage down to 3.9 volts?
the exact thread I've been searching for.
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
rezmax said:
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why go through all the trouble? Just snip off any USB cable and connect to the pogo pins.. This way, you can charge at pogo's speed with any wall charger and still bring your tablet anywhere.
Hi guys just wanted to report i used your trick on my nexus 7 and it worked perfectly!
I used this method to check if the problem was the battery or if the screen was dead and it turned out to be the battery!
Now i have another battery on the way from Ebay.
Thanks again good job!
Hi guys me again,
I want to update the software but it wont let me because battery is on 1% for ever.
BUT i was wondering, what would happend if i simultaneously plug in the mini usb to another usb charger?
would that create some sort of an insane weird circut and burn my tablet?
any thoughts?
thanks!
Im thinking to use the Nexus 7 in car without the original battery. Constant 4.2V from car battery via converter to nexus battery pins and using the usb with ignition to switch the tablet between sleep and normal state. One thing i would want to reuse is the temperature sensor in the Li-ion pack. Has anyone some idea if the two extra wires are directly connected to temp sensor or there is a circuit for it on the battery controller? If so how it could be reproduced so i could use this to monitor the temp in car for example or if anyone knows any usb dongles that i could use for monitoring external temp with android.
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
freakadell said:
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You supplied power to the protection circuit? I'm surprised that worked.
The battery is probably going down because the protection circuit is designed to prevent over and under voltage. Since you're feeding it 5V and a lithium battery is supposed to max out at about 4.2V it must be trying to lower the voltage somehow. The percentage going down is probably nothing to worry about, but I'd strongly recommend connecting to the battery connector instead, and only connecting it like this when you need to have a certain percentage to do a system update etc. Also be careful with the bare battery, if the two pins short it could catch fire.
Hi i tried that works ,however it doesn't boot when powered i have to turn it on pressing power button,any idea why?
As a car dash its pretty useless now
Just a quick message that I have managed to power my nexus 7 2012 from a USB cable connected to the circuit board that was attached to my dead battery. Battery level indicator is permanently at 100%.
Sort of like the above it involves using the battery circuit board but it is disconnected from the battery.
Step 1: Strip back battery wrapping revealing the board attached to the connector cables (that connects to Nexus 7)
Step 2: Cut the metal strips going from the circuit board to the actual battery part
Step 3: Solder USB cable Positive wire to board pad labelled VP and Negative to pad VG(? not 100% on last one, but it's the other pad)
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Step 5: Wrap board up with elec/other tape to avoid shorts
Step 6: Connect up and power on
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Where is the ++ pad ??
dribbleboy said:
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is the ++ pad mentioned in step 4 ? Can you post some pictures ?
Sadly I have moved onto another personal phone, but since I have a plethora of XT897's lying around, I would like to be able to use them for other tasks.
When thinking of various things like hidden GPS tracker for my car or baby monitor for friends, one thing that really gets in the way is the fact that if the phone looses power for ~18 hours (however long the battery last given load), when power is applied again to the USB port, the phone by default stays off.
Does anyone know how to get the phone to automatically power on after the battery has died and it has started to recharge via USB? (Anything short of a 5 minute timer wired to the power button.)
I think I once saw people playing with the bootloader once, not sure if that is the right direction or not.
All my recent toys have been moved over to CM ... would the stock OS have something in the "Hidden Menu" Motorola app for this? Does anyone have info on that app?
I believe powering the device through the 5th pin on the USB will allow it to run without a battery, but I'm yet to try it. This may solve your problem if you hardwire the handset to your car battery etc.
I've often thought about repurposing handsets in this way - built in GPS/dash cam/music centre for a car etc, but without the heat & current draw of charging a battery.
Sent from my XT897 using XDA Free mobile app
schmandroid said:
I believe powering the device through the 5th pin on the USB will allow it to run without a battery, but I'm yet to try it. This may solve your problem if you hardwire the handset to your car battery etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not running with an internal battery is an option, but could I get some more details of what you mean by 5th pin on the USB? Whats different than the typical charger with pin 1 at Vcc and pin 5 at Gnd? I try a typical USB charger with no battery in a phone, and I get the green charging light but the phone doesn't come on and won't come on when I hit the power button.
schmandroid said:
I believe powering the device through the 5th pin on the USB will allow it to run without a battery, but I'm yet to try it. This may solve your problem if you hardwire the handset to your car battery etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen a few things about making an "active cable" by pulling the oddly used pin 4 high as shown:
http://www.atrixforums.com/forum/at...your-own-motorola-factory-cable-schematic.jpg
https://cdn-images.xda-developers.com/direct/8/9/4/9/1/1/FAC_CAB.jpg
Is that what you were thinking of? I need to try to get a hold of a micro cable that has all wires coming through.
crankine3 said:
I've seen a few things about making an "active cable" by pulling the oddly used pin 4 high as shown:
http://www.atrixforums.com/forum/at...your-own-motorola-factory-cable-schematic.jpg
https://cdn-images.xda-developers.com/direct/8/9/4/9/1/1/FAC_CAB.jpg
Is that what you were thinking of? I need to try to get a hold of a micro cable that has all wires coming through.
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Yeah, that's what I was talking about.
The micro usb cable plugs all have the 'extra' pin in them, but not the wire usually.
A USBOTG cable will either have the wire or the link to the pin.
Alternatively, buy a plug & make it up yourself??
I just haven't got round to testing it all out yet.
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---------- Post added at 09:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 AM ----------
One frustrating thing about car docks etc is that when the phone/battery heats up, it stops charging the battery. This causes the battery to discharge while using GPS etc, so when I get to my destination, I also have a flat battery.
Running without a battery should overcome this. The battery has a temp sensor in it, which stops the charge cycle.
Alternative to the modded USB cable is running a voltage reducer, & hooking it straight to the battery input terminal on the phone. Around 3.6Vdc (3,5-4Vdc) should do it.
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---------- Post added at 09:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 AM ----------
Not useful for a portable handset, but for a built-in device it is ideal.
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I dunno if this helps you, but if I charge from PC USB port, I can't turn off the phone, it'll just restart by itself. If I charge from wall or car charger, it will stay on or off. Don't quite understand why, but it's quite annoying to charge from pc usb when you're battery is super low as it just constantly reboots itself until it builds up a little charge, but this annoyance may be useful to you.
There are different kinds of USB cables around: the "better" ones have both 0V/5V and data wires, while a few (charge-only) don't use the data wires. The latter type often comes with power banks - it's a tad cheaper... Try to find such a cable, and you'll be fine.
I run a little Xperia mini pro in my car, I went down the route of deleting the chargemon file to get it to power back up if the battery dies as I can't access the hard keys. This has worked fine for me over the past year or so.
This? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM4X8OWlFZ8