Database Users

Active Car Holder for Kaiser HowTo - WITH AUDIO OUT

I am writing this article as I have an HTC Kaiser and want the ultimate active holder for my car.
Brodit do an active holder, but it is regular USB, not extUSB, and it is hard wired to a cigarette lighter connector, so you cannot access audio via the extUSB whilst your Kaiser is in the holder. Also, Brodit seem to have abandoned screwing on the block that holds the USB plug in favour of melting it on, so you can't easily replace the plug with an extUSB splitter as you could with the Hermes holder.
This method should work for pretty much any extUSB phone (or even ones with other connectors) but in my examples I will obviously show a Kaiser and a brodit holder.
You will need:
Your phone.
A very thin plastic bag.
A passive holder (Brodit item 848752 for a Kaiser) or a suitably butchered active one that had the wrong plug.
Some plastic granules (Such as these - not the exact ones I used, anything similar should do)
A hob, pan and water.
An audio splitter (Such as this ORA 3-in-1 splitter)
About 10 minutes spare.
Step 1 - Preparation
Start boiling the pan of water, remove battery from phone (Put cover back on), put the phone in the plastic bag with plastic covering the USB socket.
Put the plug of the audio splitter into the phone whilst the plastic bag is still on the phone. The plastic bag should go inside the usb socket between the plug and the socket (That's why it needs to be a thin plastic bag). This is to make sure you get no melted plastic on your phone or in the USB socket.
Put the phone in the passive holder (Still inside plastic bag - again, why it needs to be so thin) - for the mentioned Brodit holder and a kaiser, do not slide it all the way to the stop at the end, leave about 1cm gap.
Step 2 - Holding the plug in place
So now you have your phone in the holder, with the plug in the place it needs to be to meet the phone as it is slid in, you need to hold the plug in that place permanently. This is acheived with the plastic granules I mentioned - they can be melted and moulded into any shape.
Once the water has boiled, place some plastic granules in the boiling water. You want maybe the size of a matchbox. Melting too much is fine as you can always re-melt and re-use it later.
Once the plastic is melted, remove from boiling water. You should be able to handle it right away - start kneading it to get rid of air pockets etc.
Roll it into a sausage and wrap it around the holder and the USB plug of the audio splitter - push it up against the phone to make sure it moulds nicely to it's contours - squidge it around as much of the passive holder as you can to make sure it has plenty of grip. Work fast as it hardens as it cools. Do not worry about getting the surface too smooth or perfect at this stage as the plastic can be worked once dry with sandpaper, knives etc.
If you have melted too much plastic, you can always pull it off at this stage - too little would be much more problematic to sort out.
Once you are happy, wait for it to start hardening as it cools.
Step 3 - Touching up
The inside will harden before the outside. Once it is structurally sound, but the outside is still a bit soft, remove the phone from the holder.
The plastic bag will probably stick to the melted plastic a bit, but you should be able to pull it away, or just leve the plastic bag on there. While the melted plastic is still a bit soft on the outside, you will need to work it a bit (use your finger or a cocktail stick) - neatening it up around the usb socket and moulding it against the holder where you could not before because the phone was in the way.
It sounds complicated, but it isn't. I did it first try and in 5 minutes flat. If you fail, you can always use a hair dryer to soften up the plastic and try again.
Step 4 (Optional) - Aesthetics
As it stands, it doesn't look very good, but the plastic is workable with tools (Or the stuff I have is) - sand it, carve it into nice smooth lines with no creases, then paint it black.
Once you have that done, you have the ultimate Kaiser holder - It rotates, it lets the keyboard open, and as soon as you slide the phone in the holder, it connects USB, audio and power.
Problems:
I am not sure how the plastic would fare in a very hot car or if mounted in front of a vent and there was hot air blasting at it. I think melting temp starts at 60 degrees celcius though, so you would probably be OK and what's the worst that could happen?
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.

Excellent post.
This is just what I was planning to do, since discovering the active mount had a "moulded" connector.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?

Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.

URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Professionals also could look at: http://www.bikertech.de/html/pda-selbstbau.html

wizzzard said:
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. I would guess that the ORA adapter 3.5mm jack is stereo only and no mic, but it does pass the extUSB through though, so you could just use the adapter you pictured.

URPREY said:
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that bro, I have an active holder already, but because of the way the block is now melted on, I did not see a way of easily removing it whilst being able to reattach it and keep the spacing exactly right.

evilc said:
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a bad earth. Excellent guide

URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear yours is on its way, as you know Im waiting for you to chop your Brodit first!
Got all the bits ready, 3-1 adapter, 3.5 inch jack plug and Nokia car speaker for the IGo audio. I didnt get a reply from Brodit when I asked about a replacement mounting block, I'll chase them tomorrow.
How should I wire the stereo audio out to the mono speaker? Just use one channel, I assume the output is mono from Igo anyway. Will it be a problem just loading one side of the stereo output?
Cheers
Rob

Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!

Frans. said:
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Semson 2-in-1 adapter
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Brodit passive holder
http://www.proclipusa.com/site/fram.../848752.jpg&width=480&height=480&pageid=13242
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

UnicornKaz said:
Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?

skins07 said:
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thinking on the matter was that if I used one with a dongle on a wire, when I spin from portrait to landscape and back, I am not putting pressure on the connectors, the cable of the audio splitter just bends.
I wouldn't mind one of those semsons one for my pocket, but I think wired ones are better in this case.

evilc said:
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one does the job for me perfectly !! ( 360 degrees rotatation with keyboard out ..etc
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-PDA-Phone-H...yZ130797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
the only downside to it is the spring jaw ..etc .. but I haven't have any problem with it yet !!

I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.

the guys at OnCourse Navigator are creating a new one for the Kaiser - Active windshield mount - with some sort of an FM Transmitter option. Not sure how that would really help, but the one for the 8525 worked well for me.

jgermuga said:
I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046

I've been able to find the metal case and the cradles on ebay, but I agree with you. It's hard to find their products in a store that I can actually buy from.
UnicornKaz said:
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Here is my solution with the old Hermes.... and works fine also with the Kaiser
Ps: The "arm" to mount the PDA Holder has been constructed & mounted by myself
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wizzzard said:
Excellent post.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs

nogs said:
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually went for this adaptor with my old USB car charger. Everything works as expected but with altenator whine. (Note to self: Fix the earth from the lighter socket)
Earlier today I spotted this which appears to have an audio out socket at the back of the charger unit. This is also easily transferred between vehicles.

Gameboy Phone Update 12/10/2013

Hi there,
I'm trying to build a fully functional android gameboy phone
There is a motorola flipout inside with android 2.1.
I choose this phone because its small enough to fit the gameboy and i bought it for only 80 euro's (105 dollar).
I'm trying to make it as functionall as possible
UPDATE: 12/10/2013 Back in action
Sorry i didn't work on the project for a long time becouse i burned the motherboard from the motorola flipout.
I bought a new soldering iron with temputare control.
And use Kynar wire and thin soldering becouse everything is verry thiny .
And ofcourse a new motorola flipout phone and btw sorry for the bad english.
If you guys can help me sort out the Keyboard software problem my phone would be 100% functional.
I can already make calls and use the onscreen keyboard.
Also the microphone is working its located at the speaker hole from the gameboy.
I only tested Nes and a Gb emulator and it works quite well on the low spec device.
UPDATE: 12/10/2013
small video demonstration (testing the connections)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPl5Nv8Amz0&feature=share&list=UU_WEZaMoLECJn6-VJDEK0lw
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UPDATE 12/10/2013
Already done:
- Dremel the Gameboy casing for more space
- Remove keyboard buttons on motorola flipout
- Solder wires on motorola flipout keyboard
- Cut pcb gameboy buttons and solder wires
- Solder wires on lock button
- Solder wires on jack plug
- On screen keyboard while hardware keyboard is open
To do list:
- Locksreen button holder
- Jack plug holder
- External battery
- Micro usb charger port
- Camera Hole
- Paint the casing
Problems:
The Hardware keyboard is open so everytime when you push the gameboy buttons.
When the phone screen is off it will putt the screen on again.
I have to find a way to only disable the hardware keys when the screen is off.
And that you have to use the lockscreen button to unlock.
Does anyone have a idea to do that in Android?
Im not a programmer

What kind of Motorola flip out is it? Could you include model number and possibly some pictures of the phone's board? Great concept btw, I've been thinking of the same thing but with a classic NES controller, using my old Motorola W490...
Sent from XDA app on my ICS powered G2 ( Andromadus a10)

Haha you gotta love Nintendo
Its a motorola MB511 Flipout Qwertz
Android 2.1
First i couldnt use the phone to call when it was closed.
Then i used the app Fullscreen Caller ID and i could use the phone to call when its closed .
With fully functional front and backspeaker but the mic is underneath the display when its closed.
Open:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img20120203132813.jpg/
Closed:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/521/img20120203132824.jpg/
The other side can hear me but when its in a Gameboy you cant hear me anymore.
For the front and back speaker i can drill holes as if the motorola was made 4 it .
But i need to extend my microphone and i was thinking about plugging in a microphone in the 3,5mm jackplugg.
But doesnt that take away the function of the front and back speaker becouse it thinks its a headset.
Why not cram a headset inside it?
I dont have enough space for it Only 4 the mic.
If i lower down the display it would look ridiculous.
So is there anyway to connect a microphone and still use the front and backspeaker?
Extending the microphone on the motherboard is my last option XD.
Mobile phones are fragile as hell and there is no such thing as a repair tutorial 4 the flipout.
So opening the motorola is verry risky for me

Props to you, good sir. I honestly don't know anything about what you are attempting to do with the microphone, but I really hope someone helps you. That is a brilliant idea. May I make a suggestion, though?
In the pic you showed, it looks like you are going to have just empty space in the lower part of the Gameboy. If you weren't going to already, you may want to add some filler in there, just to balance the thing out, if only to make the Gameboy not so top-heavy.
Are you going to make a charging porthole for the Gameboy, so that you can leave it in, even when charging?

lightningdude said:
Props to you, good sir. I honestly don't know anything about what you are attempting to do with the microphone, but I really hope someone helps you. That is a brilliant idea. May I make a suggestion, though?
In the pic you showed, it looks like you are going to have just empty space in the lower part of the Gameboy. If you weren't going to already, you may want to add some filler in there, just to balance the thing out, if only to make the Gameboy not so top-heavy.
Are you going to make a charging porthole for the Gameboy, so that you can leave it in, even when charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is gonna be some extra juice in the lower part of the gameboy
So i'm not that worried about the balance thing .
And yep i'm thinking about using the original porthole 4 charging

I took the motorola flipout apart
The good news is i can solder the buttons to the phone easily
My first plan was to solder the buttons to a bleutooth keyboard
Also the phone thinks the keyboard is open even when its closed
I have to do this because i cant call without the keyboard opened.
Now my only problem with the phone is how to extend the microphone???
I cant solder the microphone loose i geuss??
I made some pictures of the inside of the motorola flipout maybe somebody can suggest something???

awesome!

Why can't you drills holes on the gameboy plastic for the mic??
Do you have an electronic board on the lower part of the gameboy, on witch buttons interacts?
Because the best solution would be to have the motorola open inside the gameboy casing. With or without the motorola casing. If you take of the motorola casing plastic you could put the electronic board (with the battery) on top of the buttons and the drills a hole for the mic...

Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)

bedwa said:
Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for a tube!!

I would suggest a wired mono headset so you can place a microphone at the bottom and an earpeice at the top. sorry if this has been mentioned already. I read only to about halfway down.

Fantastic idea!
Just a little idea- why dont you get a set of headphones with a microphone built in (wired hands free kit) mount the mic where ever you need, chop the headphones off and run a mono speaker where the stock speaker used to be?
If you wanted to get super awesome, why not hook the volume control wheel into the wire after the mic but before the speaker, and run a dual 3mm headphone jack, so you could mute the speaker, and plug normal headphones in if you ever wanted to, and still have an external microphone in there? (obviously the dual jack would have to support the microphone connection too, but you could always fabricate this yourself if you knew how? (I dont, just an idea) )
Definitely watching this thread though, I'd love to do this with an old gaming console and my phone somehow.
ratykat

For OP.
Have you posted this on a Nintendo forum on the nintendo website. You could have some brilliant ideas come from there too. I am sure someone with a tech mind for modding could help you there.

YES YOU CAN!
IPHONE HEADPHONES WITH MIC?
also go to walmart and find a cheap headset
or dollar tree
or if funds are no issue, find an old Nintendo DS,DSI,DS lite
CHEERS N GOOD LUCK!
tried this before and sold it for 340 on ebay =) but i had the Pikachu Version!
and the Clear Purple
also if i can be any help PM me, and we will go from there

Nice work man!keep on

I want that yellowboy shell.

So far this is the most awesome project I've ever seen on XDA!

The Microphone wouldnt be a problem but there is little space 4 a earpiece if i would use a headset.
I cant use the headset and earpiece on the phone @ the same time .
The easiest thing would be if there is some kind of app to use only the microphone on a headset and still use the earpiece of the motorola.
Is there somebody that knows a app that can direct sound both on the phone and headset????
Oh and yes i have a electronic board on the lower part of the gameboy on witch buttons interacts
I'l make some pictures when i am finished soldering

bedwa said:
Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha +1 again for the tubing i cant use the tube becouse of the electronic part of the gameboy buttons.
But your tubing gave me a idea to use tubing to direct sound between the tight space between the screen and phone from the earpiece of a headset.

If I was you I would try and contact Ben Heck for some ideas. Google it and you'll see who he is and what he does.

External Mic on Galaxy Devices

Hey guys, I worked on adding external microphone features to my device for a dog-gone long time yesterday... about 5 hours. Elite Recognized Developer Rebellos searched the code and we figured out that the device wouldn't recognize my mic because it's ohms are too low. The WolfsonMicro chip uses any value below 1000 ohms to signify button presses. Above 1000 ohms it signifies a microphone. My microphone is a 900 ohm microphone, so in all actuality, it's pretty high considering most are around 100-500 ohms. However, Rebellos and I managed to hack through it. I wanted to share this method.
My target device is a Galaxy Camera, but Samsung has used WolfsonMicro chips in their devices for a long time. This also works on the Galaxy Note 2 so Its logical to assume it will work on others.
Here's the finished solution. A Samsung 4-pole to 1/4" Mic adapter with a 200ohm resistor inline.
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Introduction
The Galaxy Camera and Note2 require over 1000 ohms of resistance in order to recognize that a microphone is connected to it. So, there's two ways to do this.
1. Buy a microphone with over 1000 ohms of impedance.
2. Add some impedance.
Now, adding impedance will reduce the volume of the microphone, but that's not an entirely huge issue as adjusting volume is not a big deal. However, adding a resistor will slightly distort the waveform but even with this slight distortion it's not going to destroy the sound quality because it's a very slight ripple which in most cases will not affect the compressed recording quality.
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Building the adapter
Building the adapter is quite simple Samsung uses 7 wires in their headphones. Bare wire is not connected to anything. 3 are copper colored in clear shields there is a Blue or Green, Red and White as well. The 3 copper are the common leads The White is the microphone.
Cut the connector off the headphone, leaving 3 inches of the cable.
Cut all of the wires except for one Copper and the White wire.
Strip and tin the Copper and White wires.
Solder the copper wire to one side of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack
*Optionally* If required to exceed 1100ohms solder the resistor to the white wire
Attatch the white wire (with resistor if used) to the center post of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack.
At this point you can verify your setup works.
superglue the wire to hold it in place for the next step
Mix up your epoxy and apply to the resistor, wire and jack connections in a way to support the following:
1. to keep the wires from touching anything
2. to prevent physical strain on the electrical connections
You'll want to ensure that the epoxy is a light coat which totally surrounds the wire, resistor and large metal pads on the 1/4" audio jack. But don't let it go down inside the jack because it can prevent the microphone from connecting properly.
slide the 1/4" jack cover down over the epoxy after it's done drying.
It should look something like this:
Here's a video showing how it works with my cheap microphone. It works super well to remove almost all noise from my recordings and just needs about a 6db gain and bass-boost adjustment in post-processing for accurate sound reproduction. This could be and will be corrected with a better mic in the future.

Probably could build a preamp circuit using an op-amp to handle the impedance shift without losing volume.

FYI - Speech Filter
http://www.circuit-finder.com/categories/audio/audio-filter/283/speech-filter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.

I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.

QNBT said:
Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is a way to configure that chip, its locked away in proprietary drivers. The ohms only affects the pins 1 and 2 in the OP. To my knowledge all samsung camera apps (GCam and Note2 tested) do not have the ability to record bluetooth or USB.

Adreaver said:
I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would work well.. to activate Google Now you simply open the connection between pins 1 and 2 momentarily... however, i posted a schematic for the entire audio controls via USB last year. It uses the Built-in FSA chip present in all Samsung Galaxy devices. You bridge USB PINS 4-5 WITH A 410kohm resistor and then using a set of 10 switches and resistors you can seek, skip, pause, and several other actions. The schematic for a car-mode audio dock is located in the USB chip manual.

thats blody brilliant, from the looks of this, this mod would work for a wide spectrum of phones, I might atempt this with my evo 3d!

I cant help but think that this is one step closer to making the galaxy camera a full blown phone.

Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stated that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Edit: typos fixed

lutadore said:
Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stayed that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly this wont work for ifruit devices, due to the fruits closed licence system for 3-rd party products the headphone have to digitally ID themselves to the phone. Take and 4 pin ifruit headset and on the other side of the buttons board is a small ic, it get's it's 1.2v from the earphone signal and transmits digital secure key down the ground/mic wires. Also the fruit company decided to swap ground and mic wires so my ifruit 4 headphones make my note do some very odd things, but put my samsung note phones in the ifruit and all it does is cancel the call.
darkspr1te

AdamOutler said:
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p

springer.music said:
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.

AdamOutler said:
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...

springer.music said:
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Audio inputs have 2 possible settings: mic or line. Mic uses a hardwired preamp to boost volume to usable levels, where line does not.
While most professional mixers have a switch for each input, since the iRig went for an iDiot-proof solution, you need to buy the correct adapter.
Maybe somebody more motivated than me could solder in a switch with an extra resistor that would allow for a mic/line toggle. Probably easier to get the mic version and disable the preamp for line rather than the other way around.
Edit: http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=4770587&pid=1218526674224&ev=prodView is an I rig mic preamp that enables phantom power. Won't allow an all in one solution for mic/line, but should be a hack free way to attach any mic you want.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app

I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...

Great guide, thanks. I want to do the same mod and create a 3.5mm 4 pole to 3.5mm mic and headphone splitter. I want to use to connect a pc headset with mic to blackberry curve 9220. Any idea on how i should go about finding the right impedance for mic and control?

Hello there,
My tablet has a wolfson WM8960 dac, will this hack compatible with it?
Wolfson WM8960 product page: http://www.wolfsonmicro.com/products/codecs/WM8960/
My tablet is ainol novo7 aurora 2

Zkaar said:
I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just checked on a Samsung Captivate and it didn't work. It may work on yours though.

I have a 200 Ohm mic, so would this be too much of an impedance jump (given I add an 800 Ohm) for the resistor to have clear audio? Great work by the way, love following your techniques.

[DIY] Convert CTIA headset to earphone with 1cm wire [Xperia 2011/OMTP connectors]

Note: TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I won't be responsible for your damage or lost of the phone because you just short-circuited your phone or what so ever, I didn't point a gun on your head and demand you to do it I'd just explored this method randomly and pure randomness, nothing else, and a brave heart maybe btw, i can't imagine how to make the phone short-circuit with just bridged the gnd and mic plate of the headset.
Since our phone are stuck in OMTP connectors forever and where newer phones/tablets/phablets are now having CTIA connectors and producing more and more CTIA standard headset everywhere. It is hard to find a OMTP standard headset nowadays (except if you want to buy Nokia phones, i mean asha series, not lumia, asha series usually implement OMTP standard connectors and headset while Lumia-s having CTIA, but who would want to buy a phone just for a working OMTP headsets, seriously... ). When you connected a wrong standard headset to your phone, you will know whats went wrong, like the sound lose the bass and vocal, mic doesn't work, handfree button doesn't work and so on...
And if good quality earphone (additional condition that's you are an audiopile, sounds quality means everything to you) out there just cost too much for you but you have a good quality CTIA headsets (eg: Samsung, Sony OEM headsets) plus you don't want to do the soldering work to change CTIA to OMTP by exchange mic and gnd cable.
Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce to you a way to convert your CTIA headset to a working earphone with only 1 piece of 1cm wire (when i say earphone, of course it mean the mic will not be able to function. Why? good question, continue reading)
HOW to DIY:
1. try to grab any wire in your house, or just cut out a cable from any of the malfunctioned wire keyboard or mouse, then cut out 1cm of copper wire from the cable, you may make extra 1cm or 2 to do the hanging work.
2. use a pliers to "apply pressure" on 1 side of the tip to make it thin just like a paper, make sure the thin wire length must not exceed about 0.5cm, the sole idea of this DIY is make a bridge to connect gnd and mic wire to cheat the phone that you just connected a earphone, and this is why the mic function will be gone.
3. then bend the thin wire tip to 90 degree, or any degree to suit you on how to hang that wire on the phone's headset connector. Again, make sure your thin wire length must not exceed 0.5cm!!!
4. insert the thin wire tip into the headset connector, not middle of course, i mean "stick to the wall"
5. the remaining wire is up to you on how to hang the wire but the thin wire must be "stick to the wall" of the headset connector. Use paper tape or glue or whatever you can get to stick the wire with your phone, don't let loose. Use your imagination.
6. then try connect your CTIA headset to your phone and play some music, check for sound quality, Is it the same sound quality that you get with other newer phone. If you found it hard to insert the headset jack, "apply more pressure" on the thin wire tip, make it thinner then test again.
7. if it works, congrats, you just made it there!!!
** if you are unsure how it does, check the picture or leave your comment(not pm), share what is not being clear in this post, allow me to refine the details of the procedure, XDA forum is all about sharing ideas....
this same procedure could convert OMTP headset to normal earphone in CTIA standards connectors too (theoretically). OR should I name it universal CTIA/OMTP to earphone converter trick?
ps: if you have a better vocabulary to replace "apply pressure" please suggest me or you found this will cause catastrophic damage on our phone, please do notice me about it!
info: i made this work on my Xperia Neo and China made tablet (RK29xx tabs) which also using OMTP connectors and i'm using Lenovo and Samsung OEM headset to test on both of them.
what is CTIA/OMTP? what are the difference between them? read: Phone_connector

This works for my Xperia NEO! Thenks Man :good:

Soldering the headphone jack

Hello people,
I've finally had enough with the headphone problems many have reported, the distorted sound and triggering voice commands. I've previously swapped the jack with a new one(had to buy a whole mid frame) and now it's started doing it again, about a month later(the original one lasted just as long).
The issue is that this phone is huge and when using it in my pocket with the headphones on, it moves that jack with every step. This wouldn't be a problem if the jack was soldered on or at least wired to the board, but instead it's just placed on top.
So I've decided I want to solder it on. I'm a bit scared as I've never soldered to a pcb board... And I might desolder other items. I'm going to hone my skills first on some other broken devices, but at this point I'm pretty sure I'll do it in the end.
Has anyone else here done this? Want to watch me possibly destroy this otherwise great phone? Heh.
Ty

Dude you're nuts. Just go get some Bluetooth headphones, it's 2016!! I literally haven't used my headphone jack more than 3-4 times in the 4 months I've owned this phone.
Also, I'm pretty sure the headphone jack isn't soldered in specifically so that if the jack moves around a little it won't cause damage to the board. This is common on most/all phones. Soldering it down would be a TERRIBLE idea. You will likely damage your phone.
Why didn't you just send it in for warranty repair?

Sean89us said:
Dude you're nuts. Just go get some Bluetooth headphones, it's 2016!! I literally haven't used my headphone jack more than 3-4 times in the 4 months I've owned this phone.
Also, I'm pretty sure the headphone jack isn't soldered in specifically so that if the jack moves around a little it won't cause damage to the board. This is common on most/all phones. Soldering it down would be a TERRIBLE idea. You will likely damage your phone.
Why didn't you just send it in for warranty repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I couldn't send it in because I unlocked it, which voided the manufacturer warranty. If I remember correctly on my old galaxy s4 it was plugged in with a cable, which was a much better solution. The reason my sound interrupts is because when it moves, it moves the pins on the board causing slight interruptions.
However the pins in the jack are long enough and soft enough that they would bend first instead of breaking the board.
And about Bluetooth headphones? I've bought 3 different sets, they either have huge controllers hanging and pulling on one side, or they are too big, or they're poor quality, I've spent more than I want to admit on different sets (see attachment).
So today I'm going to try and solder the jack, and throw this phone away if I break it and buy a small one, that doesn't put that much pressure on the jack in my pocket.
Stay tuned. I should take pictures.

No go
Well, it didn't work. I knew it would be hard to solder the little legs that where under the actual jack. Getting them all melted and touching before they cool down, without melting the plastic or the rubber around the jack was not possible in the end.
Only 2 of the 5 pads actually stuck together, and there was only a buzz coming from the headphones. I decided to open it again and remove the solder just in case something was shorted, I didn't want the sound chip to get toasted. My biggest mistake was leaving the glue on the jack, which stuck to the mid-frame. When I pulled that apart, the jack, with the two pads came with it.
I'm putting the pictures up if anyone wants to have a look at the mess, you can see in the first and second picture why my sound is interrupting: the pad is damaged from continuous friction.
The phone still works so I've lost nothing other than my time.
BTW, at the moment I'm using wired headphones to a Bluetooth adapter. Until they make smaller/lighter wireless headphones I'm stuck with this.

They got Bluetooth without the wire hanging thing that bugs ya (bugs me too) don't have a name or link right now but a quick Google search should pull them up

Ken C said:
They got Bluetooth without the wire hanging thing that bugs ya (bugs me too) don't have a name or link right now but a quick Google search should pull them up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I saw Jordan Keyes review these ones. They are too much like having screws screwed in your ears. If they can get them smaller, and still have 2-3 hours battery, I'll be interested.

I am not sure how the LG Tone type of Bluetooth ear buds are any more intrusive than regular earbuds with a cord hanging down the side of your body! They definitely last a long time for me.

bv90andy said:
Yea, I saw Jordan Keyes review these ones. They are too much like having screws screwed in your ears. If they can get them smaller, and still have 2-3 hours battery, I'll be interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about these

Use this instead, it's a taotronics tt-br05 Bluetooth wireless receiver, you can plug your wired headphones in it and use Bluetooth instead of the 3.5mm plug.
Has play/pause and volume/track change buttons. Also has a mic for calls.
Search in Amazon.

Ken C said:
How about these View attachment 3865297
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They only have 1 hour battery before you have to plug them in the little tube to charge again. The battery technology isn't there yet.
kadopt said:
Use this instead, it's a taotronics tt-br05 Bluetooth wireless receiver, you can plug your wired headphones in it and use Bluetooth instead of the 3.5mm plug.
Has play/pause and volume/track change buttons. Also has a mic for calls.
Search in Amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have actually been using this
Good option, but it wasn't great sound quality.
Anyway, I've bought a second hand Xperia z5 compact and use that now. The moto x style has become a in house tablet.