Database Users

Active Car Holder for Kaiser HowTo - WITH AUDIO OUT

I am writing this article as I have an HTC Kaiser and want the ultimate active holder for my car.
Brodit do an active holder, but it is regular USB, not extUSB, and it is hard wired to a cigarette lighter connector, so you cannot access audio via the extUSB whilst your Kaiser is in the holder. Also, Brodit seem to have abandoned screwing on the block that holds the USB plug in favour of melting it on, so you can't easily replace the plug with an extUSB splitter as you could with the Hermes holder.
This method should work for pretty much any extUSB phone (or even ones with other connectors) but in my examples I will obviously show a Kaiser and a brodit holder.
You will need:
Your phone.
A very thin plastic bag.
A passive holder (Brodit item 848752 for a Kaiser) or a suitably butchered active one that had the wrong plug.
Some plastic granules (Such as these - not the exact ones I used, anything similar should do)
A hob, pan and water.
An audio splitter (Such as this ORA 3-in-1 splitter)
About 10 minutes spare.
Step 1 - Preparation
Start boiling the pan of water, remove battery from phone (Put cover back on), put the phone in the plastic bag with plastic covering the USB socket.
Put the plug of the audio splitter into the phone whilst the plastic bag is still on the phone. The plastic bag should go inside the usb socket between the plug and the socket (That's why it needs to be a thin plastic bag). This is to make sure you get no melted plastic on your phone or in the USB socket.
Put the phone in the passive holder (Still inside plastic bag - again, why it needs to be so thin) - for the mentioned Brodit holder and a kaiser, do not slide it all the way to the stop at the end, leave about 1cm gap.
Step 2 - Holding the plug in place
So now you have your phone in the holder, with the plug in the place it needs to be to meet the phone as it is slid in, you need to hold the plug in that place permanently. This is acheived with the plastic granules I mentioned - they can be melted and moulded into any shape.
Once the water has boiled, place some plastic granules in the boiling water. You want maybe the size of a matchbox. Melting too much is fine as you can always re-melt and re-use it later.
Once the plastic is melted, remove from boiling water. You should be able to handle it right away - start kneading it to get rid of air pockets etc.
Roll it into a sausage and wrap it around the holder and the USB plug of the audio splitter - push it up against the phone to make sure it moulds nicely to it's contours - squidge it around as much of the passive holder as you can to make sure it has plenty of grip. Work fast as it hardens as it cools. Do not worry about getting the surface too smooth or perfect at this stage as the plastic can be worked once dry with sandpaper, knives etc.
If you have melted too much plastic, you can always pull it off at this stage - too little would be much more problematic to sort out.
Once you are happy, wait for it to start hardening as it cools.
Step 3 - Touching up
The inside will harden before the outside. Once it is structurally sound, but the outside is still a bit soft, remove the phone from the holder.
The plastic bag will probably stick to the melted plastic a bit, but you should be able to pull it away, or just leve the plastic bag on there. While the melted plastic is still a bit soft on the outside, you will need to work it a bit (use your finger or a cocktail stick) - neatening it up around the usb socket and moulding it against the holder where you could not before because the phone was in the way.
It sounds complicated, but it isn't. I did it first try and in 5 minutes flat. If you fail, you can always use a hair dryer to soften up the plastic and try again.
Step 4 (Optional) - Aesthetics
As it stands, it doesn't look very good, but the plastic is workable with tools (Or the stuff I have is) - sand it, carve it into nice smooth lines with no creases, then paint it black.
Once you have that done, you have the ultimate Kaiser holder - It rotates, it lets the keyboard open, and as soon as you slide the phone in the holder, it connects USB, audio and power.
Problems:
I am not sure how the plastic would fare in a very hot car or if mounted in front of a vent and there was hot air blasting at it. I think melting temp starts at 60 degrees celcius though, so you would probably be OK and what's the worst that could happen?
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.

Excellent post.
This is just what I was planning to do, since discovering the active mount had a "moulded" connector.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?

Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.

URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Professionals also could look at: http://www.bikertech.de/html/pda-selbstbau.html

wizzzard said:
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. I would guess that the ORA adapter 3.5mm jack is stereo only and no mic, but it does pass the extUSB through though, so you could just use the adapter you pictured.

URPREY said:
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that bro, I have an active holder already, but because of the way the block is now melted on, I did not see a way of easily removing it whilst being able to reattach it and keep the spacing exactly right.

evilc said:
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a bad earth. Excellent guide

URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear yours is on its way, as you know Im waiting for you to chop your Brodit first!
Got all the bits ready, 3-1 adapter, 3.5 inch jack plug and Nokia car speaker for the IGo audio. I didnt get a reply from Brodit when I asked about a replacement mounting block, I'll chase them tomorrow.
How should I wire the stereo audio out to the mono speaker? Just use one channel, I assume the output is mono from Igo anyway. Will it be a problem just loading one side of the stereo output?
Cheers
Rob

Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!

Frans. said:
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Semson 2-in-1 adapter
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Brodit passive holder
http://www.proclipusa.com/site/fram.../848752.jpg&width=480&height=480&pageid=13242
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

UnicornKaz said:
Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?

skins07 said:
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thinking on the matter was that if I used one with a dongle on a wire, when I spin from portrait to landscape and back, I am not putting pressure on the connectors, the cable of the audio splitter just bends.
I wouldn't mind one of those semsons one for my pocket, but I think wired ones are better in this case.

evilc said:
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one does the job for me perfectly !! ( 360 degrees rotatation with keyboard out ..etc
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-PDA-Phone-H...yZ130797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
the only downside to it is the spring jaw ..etc .. but I haven't have any problem with it yet !!

I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.

the guys at OnCourse Navigator are creating a new one for the Kaiser - Active windshield mount - with some sort of an FM Transmitter option. Not sure how that would really help, but the one for the 8525 worked well for me.

jgermuga said:
I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046

I've been able to find the metal case and the cradles on ebay, but I agree with you. It's hard to find their products in a store that I can actually buy from.
UnicornKaz said:
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Here is my solution with the old Hermes.... and works fine also with the Kaiser
Ps: The "arm" to mount the PDA Holder has been constructed & mounted by myself
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"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

wizzzard said:
Excellent post.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs

nogs said:
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually went for this adaptor with my old USB car charger. Everything works as expected but with altenator whine. (Note to self: Fix the earth from the lighter socket)
Earlier today I spotted this which appears to have an audio out socket at the back of the charger unit. This is also easily transferred between vehicles.

[FIX] What to do if the mic on your headphones does NOT work.

WARNING: This might be a long read!
For months, I was completely stumped over why the mic on my Denon C562R and Klipsch s4i headphones was working on the Samsung Vibrant I had previously but not on the HTC Vision I traded it up for. At first, I thought it was a hardware defect and was ready to ship it back to HTC for them to fix (along with some dust underneath the digitiser). However, things got weirder after the mic on my co-worker's Blackberry headphones worked great. In both cases, the middle button to play/stop/skip music works fine and the mic works well (sporadically) on my work-assigned Blackberry Curve. I found after doing a Google/Bing on this that some headphones with mics worked fine, while others didn't.
To keep a long story short, it turns out that the TRRS plugs on headphones made to work with iPhone are slightly different than standard TRRS plugs and the female connectors on most HTC devices are not deep enough for all the contacts to completely line up. Notice in the picture below that the last ring on the Blackberry headset is just a hair bigger than the one on the "Made-for-iPhone" Klipsch headset. This explains why the buttons worked and the mic didn't, as well as why they worked sporadically on the Blackberry.
The cheapest and non-intrusive solution is to buy the Griffin SmartTalk Mic adapter. It costs between $5 and $10 and uses a standard TRRS plug which, as I expected, works great with my Vision. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could also snip off the appropriate plug from the headset that came with your phone and solder it on with the copper leads. It's pretty easy to do, but I wouldn't want to damage my wonderful headphones this way. If you're in the market for a set of headphones with a mic, be sure to NOT get those labelled as being "Made for iPhone/iPod/iPad." You can easily determine if they are by seeing if they have the volume up/down buttons along with the middle button. If they do, either avoid them or plan to buy that adapter as well.
Hope this helps!

Awesome thank you! WOrks!

I can't find the device -- do you have a link? I have a $70 set of headphones that don't work on my android!

Hack ur old nokia headsets for new samsung and htc phones..

Hey guys remember those old days(and new days too..), most of us had a Nokia handset( i never had used one from multimedia days, i hate Nokia multimedia sets,and i am a fan of Sony Ericsson, but of course i love Nokia's monochrome handsets,coz they come handy as a backup set!) Before theses android phones came to us.. so of course we do have a headset ( some even have in ear too like wh205 or so) which we do put a side coz its no longer being useful to the owners of HTC or Samsung users..( don't know if it works for other android devices).
Here starts my story.. i have been in search of a headset with mic for my hd2, i lost my HTC and Samsung headsets coz its cables brick in such a manner that i cant fix it any more( already had fixed it lot of times.. oh lol my crazy sleep with headsets on make it broke all the time..). So i need a good pair of headsets( i already had a lot of music only headsets from Sony, jbl,etc..) with mic,my needs are- it should have a good quality cable,good 3.5mm jack, good mic,and of course descent music quality. After long search i fall into Nokia headsets . Its almost good for enough and satisfies my needs..
So first time in my life i bought a Nokia accessory ,a wh205 headset ( cost me 350 Inr from Nokia showroom , almost 7 USD), well i checked it in my friends Nokias.. its good.( almost.., Worth the cost of course. Believe me, far better than default HTC or Samsung headsets ).
But there exists a problem, this is not compatible with HTC OR SAMSUNG( fck lol!!!!) So only after an hour of purchase( 6months warranty is still there) i dismantled it, opened the mic container, and find out the pin points of the jack and identified the wires of L+,R+,L-,R-,M+,M- using my multimeter and rewired( resoldered) them according to this wiring diagram
{
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
.
Re fitted everything carefully ( thanks to Nokia, they use only locks and not glue to join parts, hence i can refit every thing perfectly) as how its made! Not even a scratch!( used a small needle and sharp cutter blade with extreme care to open it... lol i need the warranty in any case he he...) . And checked in my hd2 with music,calls,music controls( single button control), every thing is fine, and the music is perfect, a lil low treble , medium bass but decent warm mids( when compared to my dedicated music only headsets.. but its perfect heaven for a lazy listener. And is better than HTC or Samsung's in ears that comes with phones ( lol don't compare with beats or other premium packs..). It took me only 5 min to do all, its worth a lot.
So if u are not an audiophile ( or i don't think audiophile premiums come with mic, do they??) U must go for this mod, its worth it.
Fact:- wh205 is the basic in ear from Nokia, and i would say it beats other headsets around 10-20 usd in its neighborhood.
I haven't changed any component from the circuit ,just rewired it, that does the trick..i will upload some pics of wiring if any one needs it
http://db.tt/f564yI0y
The above pic is the original one.
Wiring to pin end:-
Right- red wire
Right ground - red blue wire
Left ground - blue wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - white wire
Mic - - copper wire
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green wire
Right + - red wire
Left - - copper wire
Right - - blue wire.
http://db.tt/7PSS1itp
And this is the modified one
Wiring to pin end:-
Right - red wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - copper wire( previously it was mic- wire)
Left ground - no connection( just dont connect the blue wire to any thing)
Right ground & mic - - short circuit the right ground( marked as GR on pcb) and the mic - ( marked as M- on pcb) and connect to the white wire( previously it was mic+ wire).
Lastly you will get a spare wire , the blue red wire ( previously it was right ground wire ) , it will be connected to nothing. ie. There will be two wires in total ( blue and red blue) which does not connect to any points.
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green
Right + - red
Left - & Right - - short circuit both points and connect it to copper & blue wires ( previously both served as grounds to respective channels)
Nb :- I will give u a small audio tip, the headphone speakers can work in either polarities , ie , if u swapped there respective positive and negatives , it will be ok. But if u have swapped any one channel's negative and positive while keeping the other channel's in its original position , it can result in lowering the volume( Google for reason , i m too lazy to type the fact behind it from my xda app ) which is noticeable. So take care of polarity.
Thanks
Showlyshah..
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium

Waiting for pictures and step by step tutorial!
Thanks!

Pradam said:
Waiting for pictures and step by step tutorial!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures would be nice yes

Man - this is AWESOME!!!
Exactly what I was looking for weeks. Thanks added of course
There is one difference - on similar samsung HFs are not present "prev" and "next" and they are marked as "vol +" and "vol -" - do you think same as I that they are wired same?
I am going to build this for my Galaxy Note II. Hate BT HFs cause of their battery consumption and not simple maintenace at all.
Just need to buy 4pin jack cause all components already have (electronic and HW geek ).
BTW.: Do you know if there were any reductors with these buttons and that has a 3,5 mm jack for custom headphones?

HeliumX10 said:
Man - this is AWESOME!!!
Exactly what I was looking for weeks. Thanks added of course
There is one difference - on similar samsung HFs are not present "prev" and "next" and they are marked as "vol +" and "vol -" - do you think same as I that they are wired same?
I am going to build this for my Galaxy Note II. Hate BT HFs cause of their battery consumption and not simple maintenace at all.
Just need to buy 4pin jack cause all components already have (electronic and HW geek ).
BTW.: Do you know if there were any reductors with these buttons and that has a 3,5 mm jack for custom headphones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best way, buy a cheep imitator headset of what ever u want ( go for samsung if u have note 2) replace the speakers and board( if u have any) with original. Becoz it cost less and can save ur dear headset speakers ( after all its what we need most)
And the second one, this nokia model i used ( 205) does not have 3 buttons, only one for attending call/ play- pause . So it will not skip songs normal way , but of course u can skip to next by double click the single button in google play music app ( others may also work). Or u can assign controls to it using apps like jays headset control or philips music control app. All that can be controlled using click patterns .
Next thing, u can have it done with 3 button headsets from nokia,moto,sammy,htc,sony or any thing.. unless u can figure out what is the control config for ur phone model. In my case the single button nokia cost me 350 INR. And if i go for 3 button nokia( n8 pair) it will cost me 1300 INR. But i dont hear much diff in sound from both. Also i have may other good headsets for music, so i need a general purpose hf this time, so i went for this one.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium

jack
showlyshah said:
Hey guys remember those old days(and new days too..), most of us had a Nokia handset( i never had used one from multimedia days, i hate Nokia multimedia sets,and i am a fan of Sony Ericsson, but of course i love Nokia's monochrome handsets,coz they come handy as a backup set!) Before theses android phones came to us.. so of course we do have a headset ( some even have in ear too like wh205 or so) which we do put a side coz its no longer being useful to the owners of HTC or Samsung users..( don't know if it works for other android devices).
Here starts my story.. i have been in search of a headset with mic for my hd2, i lost my HTC and Samsung headsets coz its cables brick in such a manner that i cant fix it any more( already had fixed it lot of times.. oh lol my crazy sleep with headsets on make it broke all the time..). So i need a good pair of headsets( i already had a lot of music only headsets from Sony, jbl,etc..) with mic,my needs are- it should have a good quality cable,good 3.5mm jack, good mic,and of course descent music quality. After long search i fall into Nokia headsets . Its almost good for enough and satisfies my needs..
So first time in my life i bought a Nokia accessory ,a wh205 headset ( cost me 350 Inr from Nokia showroom , almost 7 USD), well i checked it in my friends Nokias.. its good.( almost.., Worth the cost of course. Believe me, far better than default HTC or Samsung headsets ).
But there exists a problem, this is not compatible with HTC OR SAMSUNG( fck lol!!!!) So only after an hour of purchase( 6months warranty is still there) i dismantled it, opened the mic container, and find out the pin points of the jack and identified the wires of L+,R+,L-,R-,M+,M- using my multimeter and rewired( resoldered) them according to this wiring diagram
.
Re fitted everything carefully ( thanks to Nokia, they use only locks and not glue to join parts, hence i can refit every thing perfectly) as how its made! Not even a scratch!( used a small needle and sharp cutter blade with extreme care to open it... lol i need the warranty in any case he he...) . And checked in my hd2 with music,calls,music controls( single button control), every thing is fine, and the music is perfect, a lil low treble , medium bass but decent warm mids( when compared to my dedicated music only headsets.. but its perfect heaven for a lazy listener. And is better than HTC or Samsung's in ears that comes with phones ( lol don't compare with beats or other premium packs..). It took me only 5 min to do all, its worth a lot.
So if u are not an audiophile ( or i don't think audiophile premiums come with mic, do they??) U must go for this mod, its worth it.
Fact:- wh205 is the basic in ear from Nokia, and i would say it beats other headsets around 10-20 usd in its neighborhood.
I haven't changed any component from the circuit ,just rewired it, that does the trick..i will upload some pics of wiring if any one needs it
http://db.tt/f564yI0y
The above pic is the original one.
Wiring to pin end:-
Right- red wire
Right ground - red blue wire
Left ground - blue wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - white wire
Mic - - copper wire
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green wire
Right + - red wire
Left - - copper wire
Right - - blue wire.
http://db.tt/7PSS1itp
And this is the modified one
Wiring to pin end:-
Right - red wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - copper wire( previously it was mic- wire)
Left ground - no connection( just dont connect the blue wire to any thing)
Right ground & mic - - short circuit the right ground( marked as GR on pcb) and the mic - ( marked as M- on pcb) and connect to the white wire( previously it was mic+ wire).
Lastly you will get a spare wire , the blue red wire ( previously it was right ground wire ) , it will be connected to nothing. ie. There will be two wires in total ( blue and red blue) which does not connect to any points.
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green
Right + - red
Left - & Right - - short circuit both points and connect it to copper & blue wires ( previously both served as grounds to respective channels)
Nb :- I will give u a small audio tip, the headphone speakers can work in either polarities , ie , if u swapped there respective positive and negatives , it will be ok. But if u have swapped any one channel's negative and positive while keeping the other channel's in its original position , it can result in lowering the volume( Google for reason , i m too lazy to type the fact behind it from my xda app ) which is noticeable. So take care of polarity.
Thanks
Showlyshah..
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good job! thanks man! i success with my wh 205 for nexus one

Little difficult to understand for noob like me.. But I will try it.. Will be great if u hv a video tutorial..
Great info by the way
It suck to have generated 10 post just to tell how happy n thankfull iam for using a rom they make.
Sent from my LT26w using xda premium

how did u opened those locks ??? mine are wh 701 and are really tough to open can u give me some idea

U just take out the rubber sleeves from both end by pulling it aside. Then there are small locks on both sides, use needle or sharp object to bend it a lil bit. And u r done
Sent from my HD2 using xda premium

They are mettalic any way to open them up I know what to do ahead
All I need to short circuit mic wire and copper wire and after that sound will be uncontrollable
Sent from my GT-S7562 using xda premium

You can have play/pause, next and previous controls. There are apps on market which can control volume too with these keys. Jays headset control or Philips music controls apps are example. Use the wiring diagram to rewire it. Also pls not that after this mod it will no longer work with nokia symbian models( dont know if its ok with windows phones).
Sent from my HD2 using xda premium

looking exactly same.. nice find have a look pinout.ru

thepurepunjabi said:
They are mettalic any way to open them up I know what to do ahead
All I need to short circuit mic wire and copper wire and after that sound will be uncontrollable
Sent from my GT-S7562 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi friend could you tell me if you succed on this? I have the exactly same headsets that you have, and I wanna make then work with my lg optimus one, but by now it doesn't even work the sound, it is not just controlling problem, I can neither listen to music because it sounds terrible, but with an nokia phone they sounds great so is incompatibility issue.. can u help me please?? and I apologize for my poor english, i speak spanish

Muchas Gracias!!
Thanks!

In the future everything will be glued because of MS
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

MS put every thing with loopholes, and that is intentionally, so now worries.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

just amazing
you are just amazing
so many days ago somehow i did it myself by doing some connections ,then recently i went to change the wire ( wire from pin to mic box) and unsoldered everything without looking the previous connections (modifications) . Then i got lost ,forgot what was those modifis and struggled a lot.
finally you helped me to put it back .
i love it , thank you very very very much.:good::victory:

Can cack lagendary butterfly?lol
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

Heck cool
Sent from my GT-I9082 using Tapatalk

i tried this with wh-701 but it wont work with me, probaly bcuz i only cutted the wire btween controller and plug, i guess i need to open the controller to ? and resolder the wires ?
to headphone,
green
copper
blue
red
to plug
copper
white
behind the 2 wires
red
red/blue
blue
green
a bigger image
_
edit
ok left/right works but the controller is dead this way, havnt tested mic

Variable resitor(volume controller) hack for adding impedance to external mic circuit

Hi,
I'm trying to find a way to connect an external 3.5mm mic to my i9100 using a variable resistor (eg a volume controller in this case) to add impedance so that various mics with their different impedances can be connected freely, rather than just adding an inline resistor of arbitrary value.
A splitter like like could work perhaps:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310720331050?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I was just checking out this thread for a similar hack:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612&referrerid=0
and it says that impedance needs to be added in line with the mic so that the device recognises the mic as a mic (has to be above 1000 Ohms).
This has me wondering if, instead of adding a resistor in the cable that goes to the mic jack (or in the cable of the mic itself), it would be possible to use the splitting adapter above and plug a volume controller like the one below into the mic jack of the splitting adapter then the mic to the other end, like this:
http://1drv.ms/1c7ZwLY
Using the volume controller I can change the resistance between the tip connections of that cable, from 0 up to 1250 ohms, and then it jumps to infinity.
In the above photo the adapter is designed for nokias (OMTP) so the TRRS pinout is different to the i9100 (CTIA).
If I get a CTIA TRRS adapter, will I be abe to make this work using the volume controller?

This was fairly extensively covered in another thread.
My suggestion was just to capacitively couple the signal.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49625339

Renate NST said:
This was fairly extensively covered in another thread.
My suggestion was just to capacitively couple the signal.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49625339
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read that thread and it doesn't say anything about using a variable resistor of some kind so that many mics can be made compatible, nor the general principle behind the idea (if it works etc).
Thanks for your suggestion about capacitive coupling, but at this point Id like to know if and how the idea I described could work. Your suggestion entails a mic mixer, an attenuator, and learning about capacitive coupling, and my idea just proposes using a volume controller, so Id like to know if the idea is possible before trying something more involved.

What kind of mic do you want to attach?
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
There's no reason to use a pot, you'd use a fixed resistor, but you don't even want that.

Renate NST said:
What kind of mic do you want to attach?
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
There's no reason to use a pot, you'd use a fixed resistor, but you don't even want that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to use dynamic mics, but not just one dynamic mic, like the above thread and mod assumes. My idea is to use a volume controller to control impedance added instead of using just a resistor with a fixed impedance, so that the impedance could be matched to any dynamic mic and thus made to work (as each dynamic mic has its own impedance). This is the reason I had for the idea of a variable resistor of some kind; so that one mod could be adjusted using the volume controller for whatever the impedance is of the mic which is to be attached, and thus the minimum impedance could be added in order to make the mic work. Thus, you're not just stuck with using the mic which the mod (the added resistor) is designed to work. I hope I have explained the idea clearly.
According to the responses, the MOD in the above thread seems to work, and it entails getting less components and doing less research than your idea of using capacitive coupling, so Id be interested to know why you recommend using capacitive coupling instead of the above resistor MOD. Have you found the resistor method not to work very well? In your view is capacitive coupling the better solution for some reason(s)?

The first point is that the mic presence/button press detection circuit actually works on resistance, not impedance.
A nominal 150 ohm impedance dynamic mic has a DC resistance much lower.
Throwing an ohmmeter on my Shure SM58 I get about 17 ohms.
Any other mic can't be that much different.
To build that out to greater than 1k you're going to need a 1k resistance.
There's no particular point in using something variable for fixed duty.
Depending on the bias circuit inside the cell phone, the lower the resistance of the mic, the lower the effective resistance of the bias circuit.
This will reduce the level of your signal.
The series resistance will also reduce the level.
It's best to have infinite load resistance and zero series resistance.
Also, that way you are not wasting 1-2 mA of bias current.
I did a test using a 470 µF electrolytic capacitor and a Shure SM58 mic.
470 µF is kind of humongous, but a few calculations on input impedance shows that you need a decent value for bass.
I was amazed to see that the level in the stock "Sound Recorder was only about 6 dB lower than using the internal mic.
I'm pretty sure that there was at least 10dB of AGC coming in somewhere.

Renate NST said:
The first point is that the mic presence/button press detection circuit actually works on resistance, not impedance.
A nominal 150 ohm impedance dynamic mic has a DC resistance much lower.
Throwing an ohmmeter on my Shure SM58 I get about 17 ohms.
Any other mic can't be that much different.
To build that out to greater than 1k you're going to need a 1k resistance..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks....but now I'm lost. Your explanation seems to be at odds with the resistor mod explanation, where we are told that are options are:
1. Buy a microphone with over 1000 ohms of impedance.
2. Add some impedance.
Perhaps this is just a terminology problem though. The main problem for me, is that the formula given there to calculate the resistance / impedance (they seem to be used interchangeably in places )which needs to be added, in order to detect the mic, is:
"1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone".
According to that post, we should get the value of the impedance/resistance from the value stated 'in the manual', which means would be using the value for the impedance stated in the manual, not actually measuring the DC resistance (which you have told us we should do, as it gives a very different value from the nominal impedance). Does this mean that the above post is wrong, and we should in fact be measuring the resistance using a multimeter, not just taking the value of the nominal impedance given in the manual?

No, really, just forget the resistor stuff.
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
Get an iRig Pre (which has a balanced input and a preamp).
Use a USB mic and USB host mode on your device.
Use a USB preamp/ADC/interface and USB host mode on your device.
Attached is a recording of quiet acoustic guitar using a Shure SM58, Alpha Lexicon and a Nook Touch.

Renate NST said:
No, really, just forget the resistor stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestion to use the 'capacitive coupling' method Renate NST, but unless using it offers some advantage over the resistor method, I cant see any reason for using it. The resistor method is less costly, and requires fewer components and less research ( I know nothing about capacitive coupling).
Can someone confirm which of the above is correct? In order to calculate the resistance/impedance which needs to be added, should we use the impedance of a mic stated the mic's manual (as explained in the resistor method post), or use a directly measured value for resistance using a Multimeter (as Renate NST says above)?

[DIY] Convert CTIA headset to earphone with 1cm wire [Xperia 2011/OMTP connectors]

Note: TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I won't be responsible for your damage or lost of the phone because you just short-circuited your phone or what so ever, I didn't point a gun on your head and demand you to do it I'd just explored this method randomly and pure randomness, nothing else, and a brave heart maybe btw, i can't imagine how to make the phone short-circuit with just bridged the gnd and mic plate of the headset.
Since our phone are stuck in OMTP connectors forever and where newer phones/tablets/phablets are now having CTIA connectors and producing more and more CTIA standard headset everywhere. It is hard to find a OMTP standard headset nowadays (except if you want to buy Nokia phones, i mean asha series, not lumia, asha series usually implement OMTP standard connectors and headset while Lumia-s having CTIA, but who would want to buy a phone just for a working OMTP headsets, seriously... ). When you connected a wrong standard headset to your phone, you will know whats went wrong, like the sound lose the bass and vocal, mic doesn't work, handfree button doesn't work and so on...
And if good quality earphone (additional condition that's you are an audiopile, sounds quality means everything to you) out there just cost too much for you but you have a good quality CTIA headsets (eg: Samsung, Sony OEM headsets) plus you don't want to do the soldering work to change CTIA to OMTP by exchange mic and gnd cable.
Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce to you a way to convert your CTIA headset to a working earphone with only 1 piece of 1cm wire (when i say earphone, of course it mean the mic will not be able to function. Why? good question, continue reading)
HOW to DIY:
1. try to grab any wire in your house, or just cut out a cable from any of the malfunctioned wire keyboard or mouse, then cut out 1cm of copper wire from the cable, you may make extra 1cm or 2 to do the hanging work.
2. use a pliers to "apply pressure" on 1 side of the tip to make it thin just like a paper, make sure the thin wire length must not exceed about 0.5cm, the sole idea of this DIY is make a bridge to connect gnd and mic wire to cheat the phone that you just connected a earphone, and this is why the mic function will be gone.
3. then bend the thin wire tip to 90 degree, or any degree to suit you on how to hang that wire on the phone's headset connector. Again, make sure your thin wire length must not exceed 0.5cm!!!
4. insert the thin wire tip into the headset connector, not middle of course, i mean "stick to the wall"
5. the remaining wire is up to you on how to hang the wire but the thin wire must be "stick to the wall" of the headset connector. Use paper tape or glue or whatever you can get to stick the wire with your phone, don't let loose. Use your imagination.
6. then try connect your CTIA headset to your phone and play some music, check for sound quality, Is it the same sound quality that you get with other newer phone. If you found it hard to insert the headset jack, "apply more pressure" on the thin wire tip, make it thinner then test again.
7. if it works, congrats, you just made it there!!!
** if you are unsure how it does, check the picture or leave your comment(not pm), share what is not being clear in this post, allow me to refine the details of the procedure, XDA forum is all about sharing ideas....
this same procedure could convert OMTP headset to normal earphone in CTIA standards connectors too (theoretically). OR should I name it universal CTIA/OMTP to earphone converter trick?
ps: if you have a better vocabulary to replace "apply pressure" please suggest me or you found this will cause catastrophic damage on our phone, please do notice me about it!
info: i made this work on my Xperia Neo and China made tablet (RK29xx tabs) which also using OMTP connectors and i'm using Lenovo and Samsung OEM headset to test on both of them.
what is CTIA/OMTP? what are the difference between them? read: Phone_connector

This works for my Xperia NEO! Thenks Man :good: