Hi there,
I'm trying to build a fully functional android gameboy phone
There is a motorola flipout inside with android 2.1.
I choose this phone because its small enough to fit the gameboy and i bought it for only 80 euro's (105 dollar).
I'm trying to make it as functionall as possible
UPDATE: 12/10/2013 Back in action
Sorry i didn't work on the project for a long time becouse i burned the motherboard from the motorola flipout.
I bought a new soldering iron with temputare control.
And use Kynar wire and thin soldering becouse everything is verry thiny .
And ofcourse a new motorola flipout phone and btw sorry for the bad english.
If you guys can help me sort out the Keyboard software problem my phone would be 100% functional.
I can already make calls and use the onscreen keyboard.
Also the microphone is working its located at the speaker hole from the gameboy.
I only tested Nes and a Gb emulator and it works quite well on the low spec device.
UPDATE: 12/10/2013
small video demonstration (testing the connections)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPl5Nv8Amz0&feature=share&list=UU_WEZaMoLECJn6-VJDEK0lw
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UPDATE 12/10/2013
Already done:
- Dremel the Gameboy casing for more space
- Remove keyboard buttons on motorola flipout
- Solder wires on motorola flipout keyboard
- Cut pcb gameboy buttons and solder wires
- Solder wires on lock button
- Solder wires on jack plug
- On screen keyboard while hardware keyboard is open
To do list:
- Locksreen button holder
- Jack plug holder
- External battery
- Micro usb charger port
- Camera Hole
- Paint the casing
Problems:
The Hardware keyboard is open so everytime when you push the gameboy buttons.
When the phone screen is off it will putt the screen on again.
I have to find a way to only disable the hardware keys when the screen is off.
And that you have to use the lockscreen button to unlock.
Does anyone have a idea to do that in Android?
Im not a programmer
What kind of Motorola flip out is it? Could you include model number and possibly some pictures of the phone's board? Great concept btw, I've been thinking of the same thing but with a classic NES controller, using my old Motorola W490...
Sent from XDA app on my ICS powered G2 ( Andromadus a10)
Haha you gotta love Nintendo
Its a motorola MB511 Flipout Qwertz
Android 2.1
First i couldnt use the phone to call when it was closed.
Then i used the app Fullscreen Caller ID and i could use the phone to call when its closed .
With fully functional front and backspeaker but the mic is underneath the display when its closed.
Open:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img20120203132813.jpg/
Closed:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/521/img20120203132824.jpg/
The other side can hear me but when its in a Gameboy you cant hear me anymore.
For the front and back speaker i can drill holes as if the motorola was made 4 it .
But i need to extend my microphone and i was thinking about plugging in a microphone in the 3,5mm jackplugg.
But doesnt that take away the function of the front and back speaker becouse it thinks its a headset.
Why not cram a headset inside it?
I dont have enough space for it Only 4 the mic.
If i lower down the display it would look ridiculous.
So is there anyway to connect a microphone and still use the front and backspeaker?
Extending the microphone on the motherboard is my last option XD.
Mobile phones are fragile as hell and there is no such thing as a repair tutorial 4 the flipout.
So opening the motorola is verry risky for me
Props to you, good sir. I honestly don't know anything about what you are attempting to do with the microphone, but I really hope someone helps you. That is a brilliant idea. May I make a suggestion, though?
In the pic you showed, it looks like you are going to have just empty space in the lower part of the Gameboy. If you weren't going to already, you may want to add some filler in there, just to balance the thing out, if only to make the Gameboy not so top-heavy.
Are you going to make a charging porthole for the Gameboy, so that you can leave it in, even when charging?
lightningdude said:
Props to you, good sir. I honestly don't know anything about what you are attempting to do with the microphone, but I really hope someone helps you. That is a brilliant idea. May I make a suggestion, though?
In the pic you showed, it looks like you are going to have just empty space in the lower part of the Gameboy. If you weren't going to already, you may want to add some filler in there, just to balance the thing out, if only to make the Gameboy not so top-heavy.
Are you going to make a charging porthole for the Gameboy, so that you can leave it in, even when charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is gonna be some extra juice in the lower part of the gameboy
So i'm not that worried about the balance thing .
And yep i'm thinking about using the original porthole 4 charging
I took the motorola flipout apart
The good news is i can solder the buttons to the phone easily
My first plan was to solder the buttons to a bleutooth keyboard
Also the phone thinks the keyboard is open even when its closed
I have to do this because i cant call without the keyboard opened.
Now my only problem with the phone is how to extend the microphone???
I cant solder the microphone loose i geuss??
I made some pictures of the inside of the motorola flipout maybe somebody can suggest something???
awesome!
Why can't you drills holes on the gameboy plastic for the mic??
Do you have an electronic board on the lower part of the gameboy, on witch buttons interacts?
Because the best solution would be to have the motorola open inside the gameboy casing. With or without the motorola casing. If you take of the motorola casing plastic you could put the electronic board (with the battery) on top of the buttons and the drills a hole for the mic...
Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)
bedwa said:
Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for a tube!!
I would suggest a wired mono headset so you can place a microphone at the bottom and an earpeice at the top. sorry if this has been mentioned already. I read only to about halfway down.
Fantastic idea!
Just a little idea- why dont you get a set of headphones with a microphone built in (wired hands free kit) mount the mic where ever you need, chop the headphones off and run a mono speaker where the stock speaker used to be?
If you wanted to get super awesome, why not hook the volume control wheel into the wire after the mic but before the speaker, and run a dual 3mm headphone jack, so you could mute the speaker, and plug normal headphones in if you ever wanted to, and still have an external microphone in there? (obviously the dual jack would have to support the microphone connection too, but you could always fabricate this yourself if you knew how? (I dont, just an idea) )
Definitely watching this thread though, I'd love to do this with an old gaming console and my phone somehow.
ratykat
For OP.
Have you posted this on a Nintendo forum on the nintendo website. You could have some brilliant ideas come from there too. I am sure someone with a tech mind for modding could help you there.
YES YOU CAN!
IPHONE HEADPHONES WITH MIC?
also go to walmart and find a cheap headset
or dollar tree
or if funds are no issue, find an old Nintendo DS,DSI,DS lite
CHEERS N GOOD LUCK!
tried this before and sold it for 340 on ebay =) but i had the Pikachu Version!
and the Clear Purple
also if i can be any help PM me, and we will go from there
Nice work man!keep on
I want that yellowboy shell.
So far this is the most awesome project I've ever seen on XDA!
The Microphone wouldnt be a problem but there is little space 4 a earpiece if i would use a headset.
I cant use the headset and earpiece on the phone @ the same time .
The easiest thing would be if there is some kind of app to use only the microphone on a headset and still use the earpiece of the motorola.
Is there somebody that knows a app that can direct sound both on the phone and headset????
Oh and yes i have a electronic board on the lower part of the gameboy on witch buttons interacts
I'l make some pictures when i am finished soldering
bedwa said:
Yes, the second pic with the arrows should be the mic. You could get, or fashion, a piece that that goes over the mic to face it away from the rest of the device. Then have a tube (air tubing?) To string it where you need it. (Remember some sort of dust screen for the mic port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha +1 again for the tubing i cant use the tube becouse of the electronic part of the gameboy buttons.
But your tubing gave me a idea to use tubing to direct sound between the tight space between the screen and phone from the earpiece of a headset.
If I was you I would try and contact Ben Heck for some ideas. Google it and you'll see who he is and what he does.
Related
This is the first mod that I am doing to all my PocketPC Phone devices - modifying stereo headset. Original ones are Ok if you intend using them for 10 minutes or so, after that is just a plain torture. Well, at least for me.
Here is the result of my mod. Standard heads are replaced with SONY MDR EX51LP. Paired with this little addon for adjusting bass and treble it creates amazing result. In fact, it sounds better than any standalone mp3 player
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=14317
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Wwoo nice.. talking about torture. I used the ones that come with the PDA2K for 50 min straight now.. Jesus... it made me think the machine it self output garbage. The ones that come with the PDA2K are more suited for calls not music.. I wonder if there's anywhere to purchase something like you did. I don't have time myself for modifications.. I wouldn't mind the mic.. Maybe i'll just find a plug converter and plugin my sony's to the i-mate.. Good job you did.. looks professional
Thanks
It took me maybe 15 min to do
Of course, adapter will work, but them if someone calls you while you listen to the music you'll have to unplug headset and use the unit itself. In this case, just press a buttom
Another good solution is to buy the SE headset. It works just fine with the JAM including the mic. I may go for the one with the radio on it as well. And that makes the Compact/JAM really complete!!
kta said:
Another good solution is to buy the SE headset. It works just fine with the JAM including the mic. I may go for the one with the radio on it as well. And that makes the Compact/JAM really complete!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which one are you refering to?
can you show step,, by step, how to do it???. Can you also post more pictures?
I'm assuming this will also work with the XDAII headset
I prefer use a 2.5mm -> 3.5mm stereo adatpor for listen mp3.....
not every people want to convert their expansive earphone to a XDA-ONLY handsfree...
killercheung said:
I prefer use a 2.5mm -> 3.5mm stereo adatpor for listen mp3.....
not every people want to convert their expansive earphone to a XDA-ONLY handsfree...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say replace the 2 earspeaker units instead of cut in the middle of the line. Also, both earphone can be reverse to the very begin when need....
killercheung said:
I prefer use a 2.5mm -> 3.5mm stereo adatpor for listen mp3.....
not every people want to convert their expansive earphone to a XDA-ONLY handsfree...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nobody got a gun to their heads
Yorch said:
can you show step,, by step, how to do it???. Can you also post more pictures?
I'm assuming this will also work with the XDAII headset
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't post step-by-step pictures since unit is already assembled. sorry. But it's really easy:
1. Take apart this middle thingy by inserting your nails or very thin plastic knife. Meake sure no ti brake 4 little plastic clips, 2 on each side.
2. Take off top part.
3. Gently push wire from headphones side in to give some freedom for the circut board.
4. Lift it up the cisrcuit board and expose soldering points
5. Write down existing coloring of the wires soldered.
5. Unsolder
6. Cut appropriate lenght from Sony or whatever you wanna use.
7. Prepare wires for soldering
8. Don't forget to twist the wire the same manner as the original was.
9. Test headphones with case open and make sure both channels are working
10. Gently close cover
Sorry, was typing this in the rush. Feel free to ask more
I'm with ya
could you post a close up picture of the soldering?
krl said:
I'm with ya
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right on!
How come you dont have any name on your unit? Did you remove it? If you did, how?
Sure..
@ID64 Remove "MDA T-Mobile" Print from cover!?
M4io said:
@ID64 Remove "MDA T-Mobile" Print from cover!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Sugar did the trick! It looks much better now without blue imate/jam letters.
I am not big fan of badges on anything
How did you remove the logos?
Definitely something I want to do
P
From imate or from the car?
From imate - with sugar cube
From car - with dental floss
P.S. You never know when and where those households thing might become handy
I prefer use a 2.5mm -> 3.5mm stereo adatpor for listen mp3.....
not every people want to convert their expansive earphone to a XDA-ONLY handsfree...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think of attaching a 3.5mm female plug just above the accept/reject button on the headphones so i can plug any headphones + i won't loose my expensive shruce..
but i always face problems in baring the wires of headphones they are very thin and fragile and can be cut easily i don't know about xda II headphones but im afraid that i will end up loosing it..
ID64 what do you think is the most adequate method of baring the wires????
My htc has, since a cpl of weeks ago, seemingly randomly turned mute from time to time.
I don't mean normal mute as in "i know the phone is muted", it's more like "i wonder if it's muted, altho the sound vol is up and everything seems normal".
The muting is global, affects both system sounds, ringtone, mp3s etc.
I always thought it was a software issue since it all started right after i uninstalled phonealarm.
Yesterday, by chance, i discovered the source.
The thing is, when stylus is inserted the phone goes mute.
If i slowly remove the stylus the phone remains mute.
If i remove the stylus with a twist or fast the sound comes back.
So it's a hardware issue!
How on earth the stylus affects the audio i'm not sure of, my guess is there's some force applied to something in the phone which makes for bad contact to the speaker or something like that....
Anyways, i've read a cpl other posts which describe similiar symptoms about the audio, but i've never heard of anyone detecting the source to the stylus.
Not exactly the first place to look for errs.
Pls try fiddling with the stylus and lemme know if it has any impact on the sound.
Cheers
also a hardware problem here. hard-reset did nothing to the problem.
after reading the above, i now notice that sliding the keyboard open/closed will make the speaker work for about .2 seconds as the keyboard clicks open & closed. this is after hard reset with NOTHING done (except playing sound file using WMP)
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SkyyBoy said:
also a hardware problem here. hard-reset did nothing to the problem.
after reading the above, i now notice that sliding the keyboard open/closed will make the speaker work for about .2 seconds as the keyboard clicks open & closed. this is after hard reset with NOTHING done (except playing sound file using WMP)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really a reply to both above posters. The front speaker is one of those that has spring type contacts with the board. These can become loose. This has certainly happened with one or two folks vibrate motor that also conects with leaf spring contacts. They found that just a slight bend back to give the springs a better contact worked just fine.
Mike
thanks for the info, but physically taking apart my TyTN is a little daunting for me.
I think maybe better just to send mine back for repair.
however, it's nice to know what is causing the problem!
I can confirm.
How hard is this to fix? And where exactly is this located- I've looked at all the photo files in the Wiki and I'm at a loss as to where exactly I find this.
My speaker cuts out exactly when the stylus clicks in to the clip. This is really disappointing because at this point I'm stuck either enabling the vibe all the time or keeping my BT earpeice on all the time- in addition there's the issue of no sound on speaker phone.
teambnet said:
How hard is this to fix? And where exactly is this located- I've looked at all the photo files in the Wiki and I'm at a loss as to where exactly I find this.
My speaker cuts out exactly when the stylus clicks in to the clip. This is really disappointing because at this point I'm stuck either enabling the vibe all the time or keeping my BT earpeice on all the time- in addition there's the issue of no sound on speaker phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I just check - are you having muting on both front AND rear speakers?
I ask because muting on one when the stylus is taken in/out suggests a poor connection at the speaker - whichever one. If it's both then it may be a poor connection or a cracked mboard but not a simple loose connection at one speaker.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Can I just check - are you having muting on both front AND rear speakers?
I ask because muting on one when the stylus is taken in/out suggests a poor connection at the speaker - whichever one. If it's both then it may be a poor connection or a cracked mboard but not a simple loose connection at one speaker.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what you mean by the 'front speakers'- if you mean the standard phone speaker then the answer is no- can hear calls placed just fine. I've also discovered that I can re-enable the speaker by gently pressing the two halves together along the right edge (side with the power button). This screams 'short' to me loud and clear.
My issue is that a warranty repair will cost 3-4 weeks and 70 bucks to send to Germany (I bought mine from an importer). I'd be willing to void the thing if I was sure I knew what to look for once I got inside.
teambnet said:
Not sure what you mean by the 'front speakers'- if you mean the standard phone speaker then the answer is no- can hear calls placed just fine. I've also discovered that I can re-enable the speaker by gently pressing the two halves together along the right edge (side with the power button). This screams 'short' to me loud and clear.
My issue is that a warranty repair will cost 3-4 weeks and 70 bucks to send to Germany (I bought mine from an importer). I'd be willing to void the thing if I was sure I knew what to look for once I got inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, the rear speaker does not have the spring type contacts it's a white push in connector under the rear cover.
See top edge white connector (red/black wires)
Mike
mikechannon said:
Ok, the rear speaker does not have the spring type contacts it's a white push in connector under the rear cover.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Once you mentioned 'push in' I saw it in the photos and found the problem, see here
teambnet said:
Thanks. Once you mentioned 'push in' I saw it in the photos and found the problem, see here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh... Good news.
Did you also re-glue that pesky stylus retaining rubber/plastic square??
Mike
mikechannon said:
Ahh... Good news.
Did you also re-glue that pesky stylus retaining rubber/plastic square??
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. My stylus seems to be locking in place just fine with out it. This raises a question in my mind: maybe it's not there to brace the stylus; could it be there to protect vibration damage to the mobo?
teambnet said:
No. My stylus seems to be locking in place just fine with out it. This raises a question in my mind: maybe it's not there to brace the stylus; could it be there to protect vibration damage to the mobo?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well yes in a way. As you will know by now there is a white plastic spring clip that locks onto the end of the stylus, so the rubber block is not to retain the stylus as such. However, without the block the stylus does in many cases tend to rattle about a bit and often the clip alone is not enough to allow you to pull stylus out and have it come out extended. So yes it prevents a bit of vibration but also just firms up the stylus when extracting it.
Mike
Speaker Speaker!
i also have this annoying rear speaker problem since 2-3 weeks now.but my tytn doesn't seem to have a plastic block to disturb the speaker connector,coz i dismantled the phone n replugged the speaker connector and turned it on while its still turned on.but the problem persisted.i don't know wot to do,may be i can solder the speaker wires to the mobo!is this ok?
disruptorx said:
i also have this annoying rear speaker problem since 2-3 weeks now.but my tytn doesn't seem to have a plastic block to disturb the speaker connector,coz i dismantled the phone n replugged the speaker connector and turned it on while its still turned on.but the problem persisted.i don't know wot to do,may be i can solder the speaker wires to the mobo!is this ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could solder the wires to the board connections. But, without testing, you might find that the problem lies elsewhere e.g. faulty speaker.
I assume you have done a hard reset just to be sure it's not a software issue?
Mike
speaker oldering!
mikechannon said:
You could solder the wires to the board connections. But, without testing, you might find that the problem lies elsewhere e.g. faulty speaker.
I assume you have done a hard reset just to be sure it's not a software issue?
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah you're right but theres something i haven't mentioned earlier.when i first experienced this problem i thought it was some kind of a loose connection and hit the phone softly on the back where the speaker lies.some times it worked and after 2-3 ringing times the sound went mute.anyway before soldering i should check the speaker.it never occurred to me since its a new device!
yes i tried hard resetting,in fact i upgraded the rom recently to black 3.1
WHY DOES HTC PRODUCE THIS CRAPPY DEVICES!!
Worth checking because I did see a report by someone who replaced the speaker and it then worked - and none of our devices are very old!
Mike
finally mike,i got it done!its the speaker you were right,repalced the speaker and voila!its working again!
thnx for the help man!
Not a hardware issue...
I have been having a notifications issue as of late. Currently using VP3G v2.0 Cingular... (non hybrid).
I will get notifications fine for SMS/MMS, Email, Newsbreak... but after it goes to sleep... it will randomly stop sending the sounds. I will wake the device and see missed emails and text messages.
If I go into System > Sounds & Notifcations... and go to the Notifications tab... I can select my text message selection.. and press the Play/Preview button... nothing will happen... if I then press the Stop button... THEN the Play/Preview button again after.. it plays fine... and it will work again for a limited amount of time before it goes silent.
This is obviously not a hardware issue... please help if you can... everything is perfect except this inconsistent behavior with the notifications.
Hope to hear from some of you... much appreciated.
Mark
More Hermes Sound Issues
Hi guys,
Tried all previous post suggestions, my 'no sound' issue seems more deep rooted than a few contacts (or the lac there of) here and there.
Ruling out software (after hard reset) and ruling out misalignment or contact deterioration, here's the insight to my problem:
when sound is either played through the back unit speaker, or the earpiece at first it seems like there no sound. But in either case, if you bring your ear up close to the respective sound source, a 'jittering' sort of sound barely audible can be heard. As the symptoms on both the sound source are identical, I assumed that its a problem in the sound circuitry, but non the less, I tested the rear speaker by changing with a known good working one, the results were the same.
Any one have any suggestions at all? or even access to the schematics that indicate the audio circuitry for some trouble shooting?
Thanks in advance.
All I can suggest is to try cleaning the contacts (both on the motherboard and the speaker) with Isopropyl Alcohol, or surgical spirits for the layman, to see if there is any corrosian present.
Use a cottonbud dipped into the alcohol. DON'T USE METHO... It leaves a residue.
Trying to track the sound circuitry isn't really feasible as the Hermes Mainboard is multi-layered and is a ***** to try to work on. You'd destroy it instead of fixing it.
Cheers...
I am writing this article as I have an HTC Kaiser and want the ultimate active holder for my car.
Brodit do an active holder, but it is regular USB, not extUSB, and it is hard wired to a cigarette lighter connector, so you cannot access audio via the extUSB whilst your Kaiser is in the holder. Also, Brodit seem to have abandoned screwing on the block that holds the USB plug in favour of melting it on, so you can't easily replace the plug with an extUSB splitter as you could with the Hermes holder.
This method should work for pretty much any extUSB phone (or even ones with other connectors) but in my examples I will obviously show a Kaiser and a brodit holder.
You will need:
Your phone.
A very thin plastic bag.
A passive holder (Brodit item 848752 for a Kaiser) or a suitably butchered active one that had the wrong plug.
Some plastic granules (Such as these - not the exact ones I used, anything similar should do)
A hob, pan and water.
An audio splitter (Such as this ORA 3-in-1 splitter)
About 10 minutes spare.
Step 1 - Preparation
Start boiling the pan of water, remove battery from phone (Put cover back on), put the phone in the plastic bag with plastic covering the USB socket.
Put the plug of the audio splitter into the phone whilst the plastic bag is still on the phone. The plastic bag should go inside the usb socket between the plug and the socket (That's why it needs to be a thin plastic bag). This is to make sure you get no melted plastic on your phone or in the USB socket.
Put the phone in the passive holder (Still inside plastic bag - again, why it needs to be so thin) - for the mentioned Brodit holder and a kaiser, do not slide it all the way to the stop at the end, leave about 1cm gap.
Step 2 - Holding the plug in place
So now you have your phone in the holder, with the plug in the place it needs to be to meet the phone as it is slid in, you need to hold the plug in that place permanently. This is acheived with the plastic granules I mentioned - they can be melted and moulded into any shape.
Once the water has boiled, place some plastic granules in the boiling water. You want maybe the size of a matchbox. Melting too much is fine as you can always re-melt and re-use it later.
Once the plastic is melted, remove from boiling water. You should be able to handle it right away - start kneading it to get rid of air pockets etc.
Roll it into a sausage and wrap it around the holder and the USB plug of the audio splitter - push it up against the phone to make sure it moulds nicely to it's contours - squidge it around as much of the passive holder as you can to make sure it has plenty of grip. Work fast as it hardens as it cools. Do not worry about getting the surface too smooth or perfect at this stage as the plastic can be worked once dry with sandpaper, knives etc.
If you have melted too much plastic, you can always pull it off at this stage - too little would be much more problematic to sort out.
Once you are happy, wait for it to start hardening as it cools.
Step 3 - Touching up
The inside will harden before the outside. Once it is structurally sound, but the outside is still a bit soft, remove the phone from the holder.
The plastic bag will probably stick to the melted plastic a bit, but you should be able to pull it away, or just leve the plastic bag on there. While the melted plastic is still a bit soft on the outside, you will need to work it a bit (use your finger or a cocktail stick) - neatening it up around the usb socket and moulding it against the holder where you could not before because the phone was in the way.
It sounds complicated, but it isn't. I did it first try and in 5 minutes flat. If you fail, you can always use a hair dryer to soften up the plastic and try again.
Step 4 (Optional) - Aesthetics
As it stands, it doesn't look very good, but the plastic is workable with tools (Or the stuff I have is) - sand it, carve it into nice smooth lines with no creases, then paint it black.
Once you have that done, you have the ultimate Kaiser holder - It rotates, it lets the keyboard open, and as soon as you slide the phone in the holder, it connects USB, audio and power.
Problems:
I am not sure how the plastic would fare in a very hot car or if mounted in front of a vent and there was hot air blasting at it. I think melting temp starts at 60 degrees celcius though, so you would probably be OK and what's the worst that could happen?
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.
Excellent post.
This is just what I was planning to do, since discovering the active mount had a "moulded" connector.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Professionals also could look at: http://www.bikertech.de/html/pda-selbstbau.html
wizzzard said:
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. I would guess that the ORA adapter 3.5mm jack is stereo only and no mic, but it does pass the extUSB through though, so you could just use the adapter you pictured.
URPREY said:
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck with that bro, I have an active holder already, but because of the way the block is now melted on, I did not see a way of easily removing it whilst being able to reattach it and keep the spacing exactly right.
evilc said:
If I use my audio splitter (The ORA 3-in-1 adapter) with my cigarette lighter to USB cable (I have an official HTC one) for power, I get "Alternator whine" coming out of the Kaiser audio - there is a high pitched noise which gets higher pitched as you accelerate. Only really noticable on quiet bits of music. This may be any one of the parts' fault, but for me, the solution was to get power from my Blaupunkt Hamburg car stereo, which has a USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a bad earth. Excellent guide
URPREY said:
Nice job.
My active holder shipped today, so I'll be posting a tutorial for replacing the usb charger on that with the audio adapter. Hopefully I'll get it done by this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear yours is on its way, as you know Im waiting for you to chop your Brodit first!
Got all the bits ready, 3-1 adapter, 3.5 inch jack plug and Nokia car speaker for the IGo audio. I didnt get a reply from Brodit when I asked about a replacement mounting block, I'll chase them tomorrow.
How should I wire the stereo audio out to the mono speaker? Just use one channel, I assume the output is mono from Igo anyway. Will it be a problem just loading one side of the stereo output?
Cheers
Rob
Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!
Frans. said:
Excellent Post!
Both Brodits once modificated would solve my problems.
Possibly in combination with
http://www.expansys.nl/p.aspx?i=157536
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Semson 2-in-1 adapter
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Brodit passive holder
http://www.proclipusa.com/site/fram.../848752.jpg&width=480&height=480&pageid=13242
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
UnicornKaz said:
Forgive me for my ignorance ...
what is so special about "Brodit" that compell you all to buy the holder and then performed surgery to it and make it less than new 2nd rate item ?? with chances of someone screw up and trash the whole thing ??
why not just shop around for a fitting or one that provide the right setup ??
ok ... flame suit is on !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?
skins07 said:
Another idea is to use the Semsons 2-in-1 adapter and attach it to the bottom of the Brodit passive holder. The only problem I see is that the adapter might interfere with the plastic stop at the bottom of the Brodit holder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thinking on the matter was that if I used one with a dongle on a wire, when I spin from portrait to landscape and back, I am not putting pressure on the connectors, the cable of the audio splitter just bends.
I wouldn't mind one of those semsons one for my pocket, but I think wired ones are better in this case.
evilc said:
Do you know of any other holders that allow the Kaiser keyboard to slide out while it is in the holder and also allow the holder to rotate between landscape and portrait? Cause i don't. Besides, Brodit products are well made and they offer mounting kits for most makes and models of cars.
Also, we are doing no wiring here, the chances of "trashing" anything are slim to none, and it is reversable (ie reheat the plastic and remove), so I felt it was worth sharing.
If you read around the forums, you will see many people trying to acheive an active kaiser holder with all the features of mine - no-one yet seems to have found one as good that you can buy off the shelf.
Also, I went out of my way to point out that this method (ie using polymorph) should be able to mod many passive holders to active ones, not just Brodit.
Enough reasons for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one does the job for me perfectly !! ( 360 degrees rotatation with keyboard out ..etc
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-PDA-Phone-H...yZ130797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
the only downside to it is the spring jaw ..etc .. but I haven't have any problem with it yet !!
I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.
the guys at OnCourse Navigator are creating a new one for the Kaiser - Active windshield mount - with some sort of an FM Transmitter option. Not sure how that would really help, but the one for the 8525 worked well for me.
jgermuga said:
I'll wait for this...
http://www.kidigi.com/Car HTC 4350.asp
Doesn't rotate though. Seidio did offer one for the 8125/8525 that rotated and allowed the keyboard to be slid open.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=386
They may do the same for the Tilt, but it is bulkier (what you don't see it that it is 3+ inches deep) and more expensive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046
I've been able to find the metal case and the cradles on ebay, but I agree with you. It's hard to find their products in a store that I can actually buy from.
UnicornKaz said:
something similar ..
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2050
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2047
I have no idea why this company have stuffs that isn't available out there .. and it's wholesale only !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/product.php?...S&mode=11&lag=&name=TyTN II Kaiser&search=HTC
even a much sought after metal case that is NOT a TyTN clone ... see the front with precised camera opening ... I want one really bad !!
http://www.4ustuff.com/info.php?itno=2046
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is my solution with the old Hermes.... and works fine also with the Kaiser
Ps: The "arm" to mount the PDA Holder has been constructed & mounted by myself
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wizzzard said:
Excellent post.
I have a question regarding the 3in1 splitter, does the Kaisers inbuilt mic work if you connect audio out via the center connection or do you need to piggyback an 11pin to 3.5mm adapter such as this to use for calls, voice control etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs
nogs said:
Wizzzard,
My experiance of the 3 in 1 is that the 3.5" jack is audio out only (although i have not tested the converter you mentioned with the 3 in 1), Once you connect the 3 in 1 it disables the internal mic. My solution was to butcher the earpeices from the original HTC headset and route the MIC part to the preffered position. Read my solution here
Nogs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually went for this adaptor with my old USB car charger. Everything works as expected but with altenator whine. (Note to self: Fix the earth from the lighter socket)
Earlier today I spotted this which appears to have an audio out socket at the back of the charger unit. This is also easily transferred between vehicles.
But a few questions/complaints.
1) NO 3.5mm jack???? this is the only sole reason stopping me from buying this phone
2) I do not like phones with styluses. I've watched some reviews and I'm kinda iffy on the touch keyboard. What are your experiences with the keyboard and in landscape mode? Also, could I take out the stylus and just not bring it in the phone?
3) I like the TouchFlo3D interface; is there a way to get Windows Live Messenger on one of the panels in the bar?
I want it so that my bar is:
Main - Contacts - Mail - E-Mail - Messenger - Calendar - Media - Photos - Internet - Options
To be honest, it really is only the fact that there is no standard headphone jack is what bothers me. Can anyone say anything to compensate for this?
Why would a multimedia smartphone not have a standard earphone jack??
1. Wired headphones are soooo 2005. It seems a rather trivial reason not to get a phone, but then, I almost didn't get it because it doesn't have a place from which to hang a phone strap. But if it's that critical, it does come with an adapter. If you use it in your car, you could just leave the adapter there.
2. TouchFlo is pretty comprehensive. You can do 90% of functions without a stylus, and the few you might need it for are things like deep Winmo settings you'll do when you first get it then forget about it. Some older software requires a stylus, so it's good to have one as a backup. Sometimes, it's good to draw.
3. I've not seen anything that can change the tabs beyond what it comes with out of the box.
I use a SE HBH 970 Bluetooth, no need to wire up my ears and the phone. Besides, there are 3.5mm adapters you can buy (not from HTC but they work).
A screen keyboard can obviously never beat a real one, if typing is all you care about you definately should consider another phone. But the lack of keyboard is a trade-off for small size, so I can live with that.
Another reason to get the D2 is because of its monstrous screen resolution, 480 x 800 pixels. Very few other phones can beat that, not even the HTC Hero and the Iphone which both have 320 x 480.
I've never used the stylus on my TD2. As for the keyboard, its decent. Auto correction is pretty good, so it almost makes up for not having a real keyboard
I came from a Fuze/Touch Pro... and I don't miss the keyboard at all. Actually the keyboard is quite amazing. I never really used with the SIP keyboard with my Fuze and when I did I never used eT9. Once the AT&T Pure rom leaked I used its keyboard on my Fuze and wow wow wow.
I can type faster on my SIP keyboard then my old hardware keyboard. It allows very sloppy typing and very good at determining what your after.
The screen is nice. Coming from a 2.8 VGA screen I can appriciate a 3.2 WVGA screen.
Size is awesome. Phone feels really good in my hands. Has a good sturdy feel to it, unlike the sliding keyboard of the TouchPro. It's also pretty heavy, feels good. I was showing it off to my friends that have a Samsung Eternity and an LG "something"... both physically similar to the Diamond2 (all touchscreen). They were light and cheap plastic feeling. My friends even said my phone felt good.
Camera is sweet. Change the White Balance to Incandesant and the ISO to 800. Takes great pics. Seems to have a better shutter response then my Fuze. I hardly get motion blurs anymore. 5MP is awesome too. If you lowered to 3MP you'd probably get an even better response time.
Phone feels fast. Might be some of the newer WM6.5.1 builds I'm cooking up, but even the stock rom felt great.
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
The only time I use my stylus is to reset the phone into bootloader mode to flash a new rom. The stylus is snug and well blended in. I'd leave it in there though so you don't have a hole.
The only thing I dislike about my AT&T Pure is that there is a flap over the USB connector and gets in the way of plugging cables in. I think all other models have exposed jacks. Oh I guess the microUSB could be accessible without removing the battery, but how often do you seriously remove the microSD card?
I found out today that the Diamond 2 lacks the proximity sensor of the Touch Pro2. No big deal but I was under the impression it had one.
thanks for the reply guys I want this phone even more now.
I guess my only gripe IS the missing standard headphone jack.
player911 said:
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As in the actual phone/models will have the 3.5mm jack???
I have the htc original phone, and it does not have a 3.5mm jack. There are some accessories that will give you the ability to connect 3.5mm earphones, I believe the htc yc a300 works. I'm not sure if that's what you want though.
If you have a problem with not having a 3.5mm jack try this: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5mm-Headphone...Accessories?hash=item43991f0358#ht_1399wt_939
Its tiny and barely noticeable and it works great! Just get remove the weird keychain thing and you won't even notice it.
thanks guys
I have decided i will be getting this phone, and everything you guys have said have compensated for each of my problems:
Stylus problem: I'll learn to live with the fact that there is a stylus IN my phone; or i'll take it out.
TouchFlo3D: I love the interface, and i've seen the preview with WM 6.5 with it in color, it looks AMAZING.
3.5mm jack: i still gotta issue with this, but i think i can live with using just its mini usb earphones, or carry that small adapter supreme_one333 suggested.
If you guys want to say anything more comforting, be my guest hehe
The lack of a 3.5mm jack was my only issue at first. But Bluetooth audio is so good on the TD2 together with a Sony HBH-DS200 stick, I never want to go back to a wired music player. You can leave the Bluetooth enabled all the time, just switch on the Sony and it connects automatically. It's even easier than plugging in earphones! Caution: Some Bluetooth devices don't connect automatically. If you get a Sony, it should.
The only vital thing to do is raise the Bluetooth A2DP settings from the standard (crap) settings. Either hack the registry or use one of the free configuration tools. I've got "bitpool" min and max up to 85 and it sounds amazingly good. If the Sony stick is connected to a proper hi-fi, it's nearly as good as a CD! Seriously, you won't miss the 3.5 jack at all.
Regarding the stylus, look at it as a bonus for doing fine work. If you had an iPhone (or any capacitative screen model) you wouldn't have that option. It's a plus point, not a minus. As others have pointed out, most of the time you don't need it anyway.
Hope you enjoy the TD2 as much as I enjoy mine
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Hey guys remember those old days(and new days too..), most of us had a Nokia handset( i never had used one from multimedia days, i hate Nokia multimedia sets,and i am a fan of Sony Ericsson, but of course i love Nokia's monochrome handsets,coz they come handy as a backup set!) Before theses android phones came to us.. so of course we do have a headset ( some even have in ear too like wh205 or so) which we do put a side coz its no longer being useful to the owners of HTC or Samsung users..( don't know if it works for other android devices).
Here starts my story.. i have been in search of a headset with mic for my hd2, i lost my HTC and Samsung headsets coz its cables brick in such a manner that i cant fix it any more( already had fixed it lot of times.. oh lol my crazy sleep with headsets on make it broke all the time..). So i need a good pair of headsets( i already had a lot of music only headsets from Sony, jbl,etc..) with mic,my needs are- it should have a good quality cable,good 3.5mm jack, good mic,and of course descent music quality. After long search i fall into Nokia headsets . Its almost good for enough and satisfies my needs..
So first time in my life i bought a Nokia accessory ,a wh205 headset ( cost me 350 Inr from Nokia showroom , almost 7 USD), well i checked it in my friends Nokias.. its good.( almost.., Worth the cost of course. Believe me, far better than default HTC or Samsung headsets ).
But there exists a problem, this is not compatible with HTC OR SAMSUNG( fck lol!!!!) So only after an hour of purchase( 6months warranty is still there) i dismantled it, opened the mic container, and find out the pin points of the jack and identified the wires of L+,R+,L-,R-,M+,M- using my multimeter and rewired( resoldered) them according to this wiring diagram
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.
Re fitted everything carefully ( thanks to Nokia, they use only locks and not glue to join parts, hence i can refit every thing perfectly) as how its made! Not even a scratch!( used a small needle and sharp cutter blade with extreme care to open it... lol i need the warranty in any case he he...) . And checked in my hd2 with music,calls,music controls( single button control), every thing is fine, and the music is perfect, a lil low treble , medium bass but decent warm mids( when compared to my dedicated music only headsets.. but its perfect heaven for a lazy listener. And is better than HTC or Samsung's in ears that comes with phones ( lol don't compare with beats or other premium packs..). It took me only 5 min to do all, its worth a lot.
So if u are not an audiophile ( or i don't think audiophile premiums come with mic, do they??) U must go for this mod, its worth it.
Fact:- wh205 is the basic in ear from Nokia, and i would say it beats other headsets around 10-20 usd in its neighborhood.
I haven't changed any component from the circuit ,just rewired it, that does the trick..i will upload some pics of wiring if any one needs it
http://db.tt/f564yI0y
The above pic is the original one.
Wiring to pin end:-
Right- red wire
Right ground - red blue wire
Left ground - blue wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - white wire
Mic - - copper wire
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green wire
Right + - red wire
Left - - copper wire
Right - - blue wire.
http://db.tt/7PSS1itp
And this is the modified one
Wiring to pin end:-
Right - red wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - copper wire( previously it was mic- wire)
Left ground - no connection( just dont connect the blue wire to any thing)
Right ground & mic - - short circuit the right ground( marked as GR on pcb) and the mic - ( marked as M- on pcb) and connect to the white wire( previously it was mic+ wire).
Lastly you will get a spare wire , the blue red wire ( previously it was right ground wire ) , it will be connected to nothing. ie. There will be two wires in total ( blue and red blue) which does not connect to any points.
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green
Right + - red
Left - & Right - - short circuit both points and connect it to copper & blue wires ( previously both served as grounds to respective channels)
Nb :- I will give u a small audio tip, the headphone speakers can work in either polarities , ie , if u swapped there respective positive and negatives , it will be ok. But if u have swapped any one channel's negative and positive while keeping the other channel's in its original position , it can result in lowering the volume( Google for reason , i m too lazy to type the fact behind it from my xda app ) which is noticeable. So take care of polarity.
Thanks
Showlyshah..
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
Waiting for pictures and step by step tutorial!
Thanks!
Pradam said:
Waiting for pictures and step by step tutorial!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures would be nice yes
Man - this is AWESOME!!!
Exactly what I was looking for weeks. Thanks added of course
There is one difference - on similar samsung HFs are not present "prev" and "next" and they are marked as "vol +" and "vol -" - do you think same as I that they are wired same?
I am going to build this for my Galaxy Note II. Hate BT HFs cause of their battery consumption and not simple maintenace at all.
Just need to buy 4pin jack cause all components already have (electronic and HW geek ).
BTW.: Do you know if there were any reductors with these buttons and that has a 3,5 mm jack for custom headphones?
HeliumX10 said:
Man - this is AWESOME!!!
Exactly what I was looking for weeks. Thanks added of course
There is one difference - on similar samsung HFs are not present "prev" and "next" and they are marked as "vol +" and "vol -" - do you think same as I that they are wired same?
I am going to build this for my Galaxy Note II. Hate BT HFs cause of their battery consumption and not simple maintenace at all.
Just need to buy 4pin jack cause all components already have (electronic and HW geek ).
BTW.: Do you know if there were any reductors with these buttons and that has a 3,5 mm jack for custom headphones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best way, buy a cheep imitator headset of what ever u want ( go for samsung if u have note 2) replace the speakers and board( if u have any) with original. Becoz it cost less and can save ur dear headset speakers ( after all its what we need most)
And the second one, this nokia model i used ( 205) does not have 3 buttons, only one for attending call/ play- pause . So it will not skip songs normal way , but of course u can skip to next by double click the single button in google play music app ( others may also work). Or u can assign controls to it using apps like jays headset control or philips music control app. All that can be controlled using click patterns .
Next thing, u can have it done with 3 button headsets from nokia,moto,sammy,htc,sony or any thing.. unless u can figure out what is the control config for ur phone model. In my case the single button nokia cost me 350 INR. And if i go for 3 button nokia( n8 pair) it will cost me 1300 INR. But i dont hear much diff in sound from both. Also i have may other good headsets for music, so i need a general purpose hf this time, so i went for this one.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
jack
showlyshah said:
Hey guys remember those old days(and new days too..), most of us had a Nokia handset( i never had used one from multimedia days, i hate Nokia multimedia sets,and i am a fan of Sony Ericsson, but of course i love Nokia's monochrome handsets,coz they come handy as a backup set!) Before theses android phones came to us.. so of course we do have a headset ( some even have in ear too like wh205 or so) which we do put a side coz its no longer being useful to the owners of HTC or Samsung users..( don't know if it works for other android devices).
Here starts my story.. i have been in search of a headset with mic for my hd2, i lost my HTC and Samsung headsets coz its cables brick in such a manner that i cant fix it any more( already had fixed it lot of times.. oh lol my crazy sleep with headsets on make it broke all the time..). So i need a good pair of headsets( i already had a lot of music only headsets from Sony, jbl,etc..) with mic,my needs are- it should have a good quality cable,good 3.5mm jack, good mic,and of course descent music quality. After long search i fall into Nokia headsets . Its almost good for enough and satisfies my needs..
So first time in my life i bought a Nokia accessory ,a wh205 headset ( cost me 350 Inr from Nokia showroom , almost 7 USD), well i checked it in my friends Nokias.. its good.( almost.., Worth the cost of course. Believe me, far better than default HTC or Samsung headsets ).
But there exists a problem, this is not compatible with HTC OR SAMSUNG( fck lol!!!!) So only after an hour of purchase( 6months warranty is still there) i dismantled it, opened the mic container, and find out the pin points of the jack and identified the wires of L+,R+,L-,R-,M+,M- using my multimeter and rewired( resoldered) them according to this wiring diagram
.
Re fitted everything carefully ( thanks to Nokia, they use only locks and not glue to join parts, hence i can refit every thing perfectly) as how its made! Not even a scratch!( used a small needle and sharp cutter blade with extreme care to open it... lol i need the warranty in any case he he...) . And checked in my hd2 with music,calls,music controls( single button control), every thing is fine, and the music is perfect, a lil low treble , medium bass but decent warm mids( when compared to my dedicated music only headsets.. but its perfect heaven for a lazy listener. And is better than HTC or Samsung's in ears that comes with phones ( lol don't compare with beats or other premium packs..). It took me only 5 min to do all, its worth a lot.
So if u are not an audiophile ( or i don't think audiophile premiums come with mic, do they??) U must go for this mod, its worth it.
Fact:- wh205 is the basic in ear from Nokia, and i would say it beats other headsets around 10-20 usd in its neighborhood.
I haven't changed any component from the circuit ,just rewired it, that does the trick..i will upload some pics of wiring if any one needs it
http://db.tt/f564yI0y
The above pic is the original one.
Wiring to pin end:-
Right- red wire
Right ground - red blue wire
Left ground - blue wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - white wire
Mic - - copper wire
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green wire
Right + - red wire
Left - - copper wire
Right - - blue wire.
http://db.tt/7PSS1itp
And this is the modified one
Wiring to pin end:-
Right - red wire
Left - green wire
Mic + - copper wire( previously it was mic- wire)
Left ground - no connection( just dont connect the blue wire to any thing)
Right ground & mic - - short circuit the right ground( marked as GR on pcb) and the mic - ( marked as M- on pcb) and connect to the white wire( previously it was mic+ wire).
Lastly you will get a spare wire , the blue red wire ( previously it was right ground wire ) , it will be connected to nothing. ie. There will be two wires in total ( blue and red blue) which does not connect to any points.
Wiring to speaker end:-
Left + - green
Right + - red
Left - & Right - - short circuit both points and connect it to copper & blue wires ( previously both served as grounds to respective channels)
Nb :- I will give u a small audio tip, the headphone speakers can work in either polarities , ie , if u swapped there respective positive and negatives , it will be ok. But if u have swapped any one channel's negative and positive while keeping the other channel's in its original position , it can result in lowering the volume( Google for reason , i m too lazy to type the fact behind it from my xda app ) which is noticeable. So take care of polarity.
Thanks
Showlyshah..
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
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Click to collapse
Good job! thanks man! i success with my wh 205 for nexus one
Little difficult to understand for noob like me.. But I will try it.. Will be great if u hv a video tutorial..
Great info by the way
It suck to have generated 10 post just to tell how happy n thankfull iam for using a rom they make.
Sent from my LT26w using xda premium
how did u opened those locks ??? mine are wh 701 and are really tough to open can u give me some idea
U just take out the rubber sleeves from both end by pulling it aside. Then there are small locks on both sides, use needle or sharp object to bend it a lil bit. And u r done
Sent from my HD2 using xda premium
They are mettalic any way to open them up I know what to do ahead
All I need to short circuit mic wire and copper wire and after that sound will be uncontrollable
Sent from my GT-S7562 using xda premium
You can have play/pause, next and previous controls. There are apps on market which can control volume too with these keys. Jays headset control or Philips music controls apps are example. Use the wiring diagram to rewire it. Also pls not that after this mod it will no longer work with nokia symbian models( dont know if its ok with windows phones).
Sent from my HD2 using xda premium
looking exactly same.. nice find have a look pinout.ru
thepurepunjabi said:
They are mettalic any way to open them up I know what to do ahead
All I need to short circuit mic wire and copper wire and after that sound will be uncontrollable
Sent from my GT-S7562 using xda premium
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Click to collapse
hi friend could you tell me if you succed on this? I have the exactly same headsets that you have, and I wanna make then work with my lg optimus one, but by now it doesn't even work the sound, it is not just controlling problem, I can neither listen to music because it sounds terrible, but with an nokia phone they sounds great so is incompatibility issue.. can u help me please?? and I apologize for my poor english, i speak spanish
Muchas Gracias!!
Thanks!
In the future everything will be glued because of MS
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
MS put every thing with loopholes, and that is intentionally, so now worries.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
just amazing
you are just amazing
so many days ago somehow i did it myself by doing some connections ,then recently i went to change the wire ( wire from pin to mic box) and unsoldered everything without looking the previous connections (modifications) . Then i got lost ,forgot what was those modifis and struggled a lot.
finally you helped me to put it back .
i love it , thank you very very very much.:good::victory:
Can cack lagendary butterfly?lol
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Heck cool
Sent from my GT-I9082 using Tapatalk
i tried this with wh-701 but it wont work with me, probaly bcuz i only cutted the wire btween controller and plug, i guess i need to open the controller to ? and resolder the wires ?
to headphone,
green
copper
blue
red
to plug
copper
white
behind the 2 wires
red
red/blue
blue
green
a bigger image
_
edit
ok left/right works but the controller is dead this way, havnt tested mic