Extending Camera Flex Cable on Nexus 7 - Hardware Hacking General

I'm looking to replaced my Nook Color in my car with a Nexus 7 in the coming weeks. Can be seen here One of the things that I wanted to do was a back up camera.
My intentions were to originally do either a BT or WiFi camera but I realized that it would be ridiculous for me to sit in reverse for 10+ seconds while my tablet pairs/connects with the tablet. This leaves me with the only one other option which is to use the front facing camera. I am considering extending the cable by about 9 feet. I have no idea if this will even work because of the length needed.
I think the way I want to do it is by using hot air to remove the connector for the camera from the board, then solder thin wire to each contact. Then in the back of my car, above the license plate, I would have a backup camera housing which would house the front facing camera and some sort of FPC/FFC board allowing me to install the connector I removed from the main board earlier. I would then plug in the front facing camera to the board with the installed connector.
My biggest question at this point is.... Do you think the range is too long for something like this? I drive a fairly small car so it won't be as long as say an RV or something. Here's some of the parts. I was able to find the part number for the connector by using the M370T diagrams floating around the forums.
Board Connector
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Camera Side Connector
Below is the kind of board that I would like to find to put into the backup camera housing. The pitch is right but the width is off. I'd have to hunt a little more but I think I can find something that would work.
http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=2200081
Kind of what I'm thinking..
Let me know what you guys think. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

As long as you get good solder connections and make sure its weather proof it should wirk. Maybe wrap it in some shielding to cut down on electrical interferance from the car. The only worry is the resistance from that length wire may be too much and not work. I'm not sure how sensetive it is to resistance changes. I would say try it, but make sure it works with that length wire before doing a full install. Cool idea.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda app-developers app

Hi. I'm sorry to say that you would be wasting your time trying to extend that cable. The signals from the camera module are low-voltage high speed link running at 25+ MHz. There is no line drivers in the camera module, nor the Nexus mainboard, so they won't be able to drive the cable capacitance, rendering you with a camera that won't work.
IF you had the right circuitry, you could maybe extend the camera half a metre, without extra circuitry, i would guess 10 Centimeters maximum.
I have my HU mounted under my drivers seat along with one of my Amp's and i have extended the Front panel connection so it's up above the rearview mirror. Had the same problem, not able to drive the cable. Added some line drivers and it worked, but only because the signalling speed were below 500 KHz.
// Per.

You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app

Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium

Omyn said:
You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think parts you selected are ok. But as zapro said - the problem is in transmitting high frequency signals on such long range so it creates much more complex problem.
You could probably use circuits called "Buffers" to drive voltage level in cable to higher (in your phone its 1.8~3V), like 10~20V. Near the camera there would be also buffers to drive it back to the source level. Also you need pinout of camera connector to generate camera power lines (voltages and ground) in your trunk.
You'd have to calculate max frequency of camera's clock signal (inspecting kernel driver should provide enough info) and get buffers of high enough quality. For normal circuits like this http://www.linuxfocus.org/common/src/article251/TL071.pdf (op-amp is a magical device with hundreds of uses, that also can serve as a buffer) usual maximum working frequency is less than 1MHz. You would need something that's working good up to 25MHz or so (like zapro said).
Everything is doable, it's always matter of motivation and time.

I dunno. At those speeds the wires have to be exactly the same length. I don't think it would work.
You'd be better off setting up a raspi, a touchscreen, a mobile phone and your tablet up to use mirrorop sender and have the raspi change its receiver settings when you put the car in reverse. Put a phone on your license plate or behind the bumper so it can display rear view as a mirror view sender.
I've never played with mirrorview, so I don't know much more than the general outline.

fadownjoo said:
Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the route that I must go. My concerns initially were the ability to charge while using the device in USB host mode but that seems to be possible now.
My only concern now would be to find some way to have the tablet switch on the usb camera when the reverse lights are on and mirror the source. I'm thinking something like this might be possible with a IOIO board as an interface. I just don't know what would be the best way to set this up. Maybe something along the lines of a simulated media button from the IOIO when it detects the 12 volts. Then I would have a program like tasker trigger the webcam to open when it detects the media button press.
I would also like a way for when the tablet detects the battery is under 75% then flip a relay to pull the charge straight from the battery as opposed to the cigarette lighter adapter. That way if the car sits, the tablet will never drain to low battery.
I appreciate everyone's input so far.

I don't think the nexus camera is good enough and the angle is wide enough... Camera normally come with 160 degree view which let you see your whole bumper...
Accidentally sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Been hoping for a solution to this also
I've toyed with the idea of installing a Samsung Galaxy Tab Tablet 2 7.0 in my Nissan Maxima where I already have a rear view camera installed in the trunk key-hole. It's pretty slick, but the screen in the dash ONLY shows the camera image- no other functionality (the radio is in the single-din space below the double din space where my 7" screen is). I'd like to swap it out for a tab with tons more features and still retain use of the camera. Every way I try to make this work leads me to a dead end And this forum is about the only one I've seen online for similar interest.
My original thought was finding the video input lead from the rear view camera, matching the frequency from my existing cam and just piping the signal in directly to that lead, leaving all other circuitry intact. But after reading here, i'm thinking converting a standard NTSC signal to the galaxy rear cam input is not an easy task.
Has anyone found any documentation out there for specs on that camera, frequencies, pin-outs, etc??
Cheers,
Q

I also want to extend front camera ( or rear camera) of my mobile xeomi mi4i without any distortion in quality of video/pic. Even half meter extension will be sufficient. I am ready to drill hole in back cover of Mobile if required. I want to know from where i can get connector cable etc for the same. I guess there won't be any distortion for half meter extension and no external amplifier/ buffer required. Thanks in advance.
QUOTE=Omyn;33894241]You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app[/QUOTE]

Related

A DHD GPS Solution( Radical and Ugly :( )

My DHD GPS contacts were broken when I tried to improve GPS function. So I used an electric wire( or any metalic wire) for antenna. I connected it to the broken position. And I made a hole over the flash cover. I made about 3 ~ 4 cm long wire come out of the hole. It works very well but ugly. Wire is flexible, you can hide it inside a jelly case, and you can take it out when necessary
Acutually no need to contact two points. Only one contact near to camera is needed. Here are some pictures instead of my poor english
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can you post more photos of the mod? I'm interested...
My another photos
You can use any conductive metalic wire for antenna.
View attachment 813848
Ugly indeed! :-\
Maybe you can mod that retractable telescopic old-style radio antenna thing on the phone casing. It'll give a retro look to the phone
if4ct0r said:
Ugly indeed! :-\
Maybe you can mod that retractable telescopic old-style radio antenna thing on the phone casing. It'll give a retro look to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have hoped so. And some manufacturer might make a special flash cover capable of enhancing GPS performance.
TO the OP: How broken are the contacts? I also had GPS issues, then I read somewhere that you can drop on a ball of solder to fix this. Basically, the thickness of the solder ball forces contact with the antenna.
See pic:
trekkie0927 said:
TO the OP: How broken are the contacts? I also had GPS issues, then I read somewhere that you can drop on a ball of solder to fix this. Basically, the thickness of the solder ball forces contact with the antenna.
See pic:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I soldered them, but overheated to destroy the point on the cover So I created another solution. Anyway this works well. Somebody said the length of wire would be best if 9.5 cm because it fits the frequency of GPS signal. But I think it's too long to carry in my pocket. He suggested another length, 4.75cm ( 1/2 of 9.5 cm ).
What Watt soldering iron did you use?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Why would you do something as ugly as this mod to your phone when you could at least hide the wire inside? Not to mention this mod has been posted and around for awhile. This is old news. And whoever told you 9.5cm or 4.7cm for antenna was pulling your leg.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Agoattamer said:
Why would you do something as ugly as this mod to your phone when you could at least hide the wire inside? Not to mention this mod has been posted and around for awhile. This is old news. And whoever told you 9.5cm or 4.7cm for antenna was pulling your leg.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well 4.7cm is the correct size for a quarter wave antenna. So that is correct.
GPS Accuracy 1 meter!
Yesterday on a moving( 88 km/h ) car.
I used about 5 cm long cable for GPS antenna replacement.
Do you have pictures of the inside connection to the GPS module ??
The inside connection to the GPS module.
I extracted a thin cable from a USB cable( including some thin cables inside).
I tied the cable to fix it tightly on the flash cover. And I made a hole over the cover.
The flash photo uploaded is an old one. I broke several covers : (
You can connect it to only single contact. But I think connecting two contacts would be better.
The cable is very thin, so you can hide it inside a jelly case. In my case, eiven if it is hidden inside, GPS signal can be detected( but accuracy is low then ).
My current cass with the GPS anttena.
It's a jelly case. I made a hole on the upper side of the case. Not very ugly, I think.
easy fix
Hey guy's,
Here is an easy fix download GPS status from market touch the menu button and select tools and select manage aGPS settings reset the data and select download restart your phone it worked for me got around 5 satellites in 5 seconds
But any software tweak is useless if you have connection problem... I tired every software, gps.conf file but eventually i ordered a replacement flash cover/gps antenna from ebay about 10$ with tools.
I don't know about u man but that really worked with my dhd
after using the sensation battery inside my desire hd, i'm curious about such mods, but i hope i don't have to use this one, because it's really ugly
but nice, really nice
jazon7 said:
after using the sensation battery inside my desire hd, i'm curious about such mods, but i hope i don't have to use this one, because it's really ugly
but nice, really nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very possible to put the wire inside the antenna cover and get almost the same performance with no external sign of modification.
True. there are different ways of hiding the antenna. You'd only loose maybe 3-8m of accuracy, but it's better then having a wire sticking out.

Reverse engineering the Blu Studio 5.3 dock port

Okay. It seems that Blu Products isn't going to explain anything about the dock port on their Studio 5.3, so I am embarking on a project to reverse engineer it. I'll update my progress here.
Pictures of the dock port:
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Pictures of the plug that fits it. It's the same 30-pin plug as found on the iPod and a bunch of other devices.
(Last 3 images from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
What I just ordered to work on this project:
(Again from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
Here's what I've figured out so far.
The cable from my iPod Nano 6th gen has pins 1, 15, 16, 23, 25 and 27. All others are missing. I haven't had time to analyze it all yet, but according to allpinouts.org, 1 is a ground, 15 and 16 are grounds and are tied together (internally on the iPod motherboard), 23 is USB +5v, and 25/27 are USB Data+/- OR, alternately, they are resistor-to-ground value-based signals.
My theory so far is that there is some internal resistance between the pins in this cable and other pins or ground; because plugging just the cable in--with it not being plugged into the USB port--disables the Blu's touchscreen and automatic screen rotation features and locks the screen in whatever position it's in when you plug in the cable. (Although interestingly, if you plug it in in landscape mode, you can use the screen rotation lock hardware button to put it back to portrait mode.) Plugging the other end of the cable into a USB port brings up the Recent Apps display (the thing that comes up when you hold the touchscreen home button down) and the phone says it's charging, but the touchscreen is still disabled. Not sure if it's actually charging or not; I'm gonna leave it plugged in for awhile and see. The phone does not show up as a new USB device when this (iPod) cable is plugged into the dock port.
Once I get the breakout board I'm gonna take the phone apart and see if I can trace where the pins in this dock port go. I'm also going to wire up a USB cable to the breakout board and see if I can get the phone to enumerate.
Hopefully I never toast my phone.
Edit for more pics from teardown:
Notice that this ribbon cable is 3 layers; those are little pieces of a paperclip holding them apart to show the layers.
It really looks like PDMI connector
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
You should open it to see what chips are used in that thing. That will help you a LOT to figure out what is going on...
lvnr00tddrd said:
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both Dell Streak 5 and Blu Studio 5.3 and I can comfirm that the pdmi cable for the Streak does not fit in the Studio 5.3.
The ports on both are the same width and same number of pins but the Streak's pins are arranged on 2 wedges, for lack of a better term, whereas the Studio and ipods are 2 rows of pins on both sides of a single wedge. It's like the Streak has a female type port and the Studio/ipods have male type ports.
This could be some kind of dock connector that Blu has not released for our version. I've been doing some research on this phone to find the original recovery firmware and found that this exact phone is being sold under the following names:
Blu Studio 5.3
Texet TM-5200
Umeox X-Land / X-5
Pearl Simvalley SPX-5
On every "rebranded" listing I found they all had this port so it isn't just unique to the Blu. Also might try seeing if anything can be found for the MTK6573 chipset that would include this port. More info on this chipset here mediatek.com /en/Products/ featured_content.php?sn=2 {will have to copy / paste too new to post links yet}.
I've also found other indications through russian and chinese sites that this thing is being pushed in some countries as an iPhone knockoff with a custom "iOS" skin / launcher. Hard to tell for sure due to some things being lost in translation.
So to wrap it all up I would almost go for a crazy guess that this might be used on some of the "iPhone" knockoffs to fake as a 30-pin connector that may or may not actually work or only work for charging.
Its seems like its a docking port for a keyboard. I found this for Pearl Simvalley SPX-5 site found at http://www.pearl.de/a-PX3502-4072.shtml.
Now we know. I think I may import one of these to see if it works on the Blu as well. Might be disabled in the firmware though....
Just got the PodBreakout board. To the soldering station I go. Send good karma my way.
I took the entire thing apart. Everything is under full-board metal shields as can be seen from the recent post-op pic. (You can also see the breakout board.) My phone still works, so I'm not prepared to go pulling the shields off just to see what's under them. I think that the only things would be the MediaTek CPU and some RAM and Flash chips anyway. Everything else is pretty tightly integrated.
Puppeto if you get ahold of one of those keyboards please keep us updated.
Behold the wonders of voiding your warranty:
Ok here's what I've figured out so far.
1. Make sure if you take your phone apart that you reconnect all the connectors inside the phone, or else you'll spend an hour trying to figure out why the dock port won't work at all before realizing what you did.
2. Onward to real research, here's what's been found so far.
Connecting pin 15 to 16 disables the touchscreen, but there is a threshold that must be met that I haven't found yet. If the 2 pins are directly tied together the touchscreen is disabled, and if there's a 3k resistor between them it is, too. But if there's a 100k resistor inline it doesn't disable the touchscreen.
Pin 1 appears to be a ground pin.
Pin 16 is USB ground
Pin 23 is USB +5 volts
It DOES charge when just Pins 16 and 23 are connected. My next step is to find which pins are the USB Data +/-. As can be seen below, it's non-standard.
Connecting Pin 27 to ground presses the hardware multifunction button (bottom middle of the front panel)
Pin 6 to ground presses hardware power key
Pin 29 to ground presses hardware volume down key
Pin 28 to ground is an oddball. Connecting it to ground through a 10k resistor seems to start the music player AND press the hardware volume up key
Connecting pin 9 to ground with a resistor less than 4k causes a white screen followed by a black screen and the phone freezing until the battery is removed.
Audio
Pin 3 - Audio Ground
Pin 4 - Audio Right
Pin 5 - Audio Left
The audio pins appear to be connected to the same lines as the headphone jack, only they don't have the hardware external speaker disable (or if they do I haven't found it yet). Apparently, the headphone hardware triggers a software signal of some kind that disables the external speaker. I confirmed that this is the case by plugging in a set of headphones, in which case these lines still give the audio output but the external speaker is disabled. Apparently this is something that can be controlled from within Android, because there were some bug reports awhile back about the external speaker not disabling when headphones were plugged in. So we need to find (or maybe someone can write?) an app that does nothing but disable the external speaker while leaving the headphone line active.
No luck yet on getting USB working. Still hoping someone here can help me out with knowing how to monitor what's going on by using adb?
Puppeto any luck on that keyboard?
FYI received the keyboard, plugged it in, and YES it works. Didn't receive a prompt or anything when I plugged it in. I opened up a notepad app and just started typing away.
I do forewarn you though it is very cheaply made. Not something I would recommend anyone wasting their time or money on. I found it faster to just type on the screen.
Puppeto would you mind taking the keyboard apart and taking some high-res pictures of it? It would be very very helpful I think because it will have the data lines and possibly some other stuff
Please guys, is there no one trying to get flash working on this phone?
Adobe flash player worked great, however it need some mod
First install MX player then it will ask for special codec, so install them as recommended.
then you need to install UC browser ( try latest version )
Finally install flash 10.3.185.360_armv6.apk from xda
run uc browser, everything fine.
My only concern is Video skype, I couldnt run any version of skype that enables Video call please can anybody help
Hi guys,
As you can see I'm new at the forum, but I have a Motorola Atrix 4G, Rooted, Unlocked BOOTLOADER, and with the NOTTACHTRIX ROM Installed with the Darks Side Kernel....
I also recently bought a Blu Studio D510, and I have an issue with play music...
I tried with several music players, and I'm still not success...
All the type of files that I tried are .mp3 and .wma
Do you know were I need to put the files in order to used the music player?
Thank You...
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
chrismotto said:
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not the rom. If you are willing to try some other roms for this device (i cant find a blu rom either), search for either the umeox x3 original rom or the texet tm-5200 original rom. the umeox is in chinese and the texet is in russian but change the language in the options and change the launcher and everything should be fine. I have found the texet to be a little lighter and faster, however, i couldnt get any of the drivers to work for it. umeox uses the spx-5 drivers which windows is able to find easily. Im looking for a rom for the pearl simvalley spx-5 phone which is another clone and uses the same hardware, but i havent any luck yet. right now, though im using the umeox which also was able to be rooted with SOC and its working fine so far.. hope i could help
virustwin
Please share the link to this ROM. Thanks a lot.
Hey you all can anyone please supply me with a link to obtain the actual stock rom for the blue studio 5.3 or even a custom rom would be of great help thanking you in advance
Sent from my BLU Studio 5.3 using xda app-developers app

Newsmy Carpad 4

Just a place holder for now. I rec'd my test/sample unit today. I took it out of the box just long enough to snap a photo or 2 to send to a friend. Nothing detailed worth posting here yet. I'll try to take better photos this evening, and might even try to get wired into the truck.
Of note: It looks just like the NU/NR3001. Same screen size, same buttons. It also came with a dash cam with a dedicated harness/plug. I haven't investigated the underlying connection type (USB, Composite, etc).
Will post more details and clean up this OP as I do.
Thanks two-head/three-arms. Looking forward to it!
First look. I have a few software/language issues to solve before I put this in my truck, but here's a quick runthrough:
I can't watch properly at work but those Bonovo apps look very familiar.
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey. It is not clear, and where a slot for a SIM card. Look on their website in China http://www.newsmy-car.com/product/showproduct.php?lang=cn&id=75
Thanks for posting. I am wondering if they packaged the main board in an NR housing as the new one is not yet ready, and this is a sample. Just a guess as the one on the web page looks a little different and it definitely needs a slot for a sim card. Seems like they made very little change to the MCU portion if the same code runs on it; stating that based on version number. Dash camera specific slot is of course new but all other cables are identical to the ones I received with my NR. If you get a chance please test USB behavior on shutdown. Thanks!
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a post just now about the Joying x86 Sofia units getting 21901, so that score seems pretty damn good.
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely looks hacked together. The main board is much smaller than the NR one. I think they would take advantage by packaging in a smaller chassis. No heatsink on the one you have; the NR one is not adequate as is if you run all four channels at moderate to high volumes.
Does it really only have 1 GB RAM, as listed on the webpage?
Be careful with the USB you order. Several people have had issues with cables longer than 3ft. You should have gotten a second USB cable with it and too bad they did not give you the 5.1 cable (sticker shows it has the output).
hello, I am also curious. the Carpad 4 has really only 1 GB of RAM and 16 GB of internal space ?? For me to have 1 GB would be a total regression.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I saw is a failure . The device really is not ready at all. And what they want from you? What is the test? Here it is necessary to refine the mind is still lots and lots. 1GB of RAM is not serious at all. My NU 1GB of memory and I want to buy a new unit with 2GB of RAM, 1GB is not too much and not enough.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you think the SOC is? I think it must be on the same board as the sim (underneath the MCU board or on the underside) as the SOC they are using has built in 4g/Bluetooth/wifi and all the antennae are all originating off that board. I am guessing that black overhang off the back are the external 4g antennae?
This is my Carpad 4 . It has simcard slot in the unit. We need to open cover to insert simcard - this is so fun! And we have somethings more:
1- This unit haven't Chplay to install app from market; may be in final version they will update this. I have only head unit for tester
2 - xposed additions (one of the most interesting module for exposed framework on our car) will not work at all. So we can't use this exposed addition module to do something as carpad 3. We will ask Newsmy do keyeditor can function as addition xposed.
3 - Ram 1Gb - this is downgrade product from carpad 3
The good new is Camera has got verry good quantily (HD camera 720p or 1080P)
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I have this unit in my hand, so if someone needs more pictures , I will take
The 1GB seems to be the only real downside so far. But, that may or may not affect real world performance. I'm still trying to sort out a few things before I put it in the truck full time. Then I can see if the RAM degrades performance.
The camera additions are pretty neat, and I'm waiting to see how this 'New Yan' remote app works (I can't get logged in).
I cut their rear camera harness and tried to wire in my existing OEM rear cam (I REALLY don't want to run their camera to the back of my truck!), but that didn't work on my initial test. The front/DVR cam is pretty neat. I was able to sideload Waze, and will make another stab at sideloading Google Play services this weekend.
I'll take some more pics/videos when done.
I know some are dismissing this device due to the 1GB, but I'd suggest holding off on judgement. What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm hoping. I still think the NR is a pretty great device with xdAuto on it (with the stock ROM I could never get it to stop reporting "Main activity has stopped".
Unrelated I am curious about the relationship between Bonovo and Newsmy. Is Bonovo a supplier to Newsmy. The MCU board on the 4 actually says Bonovo, not Newsmy!
Another test video:
I also came up with a really crazy idea. I was working on a friends NR5002 getting ready for his install next week. Realize that all the Nu/NR and Carpad4 chassis and screens, etc. should be interchangeable. I have an NU5002 with no android box to power it... and of course I prefer the 8" screen to the 7" universal so ......
Tearing them all down now.... Could be able to make a Carpad4 version of my NU5002
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, it is possible that it will come in handy.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=60056637&postcount=3864
Very interesting, I too have a NU5002 and would love an 8" version. Is it still mostly empty with circuit boards on the bottom? This would help me as I need to modify the case and maybe remove the screen from the rest to make it fit in my car.
Software wise, is it lollipop with a kit kat base like I've seen other manufacturers do?
Syncing text from phone to head unit seems like a neat feature. Any idea of back porting it to previous units? Honestly that should already be implemented in Android natively.

A real 1 DIN Android unit

Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
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If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.
I'm hoping to be able to achieve something like that:
I had a pyle slide out touchscreen in my ranger. I just had to adjust the screen so it didn't hit the vent above it similar to your setup. What I did instead though was remove the vent and block it off above the single din. that made a nice slot for the screen to fit when extended. Wish I had pictures but I switched trucks and haven't swapped stereo decks yet. Used the back up camera input to plug in whatever I wanted, bypassed the e brake safety, and wired the control for the camera to a switch. You could do something similar
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
WhiteTitane said:
Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've searched high and low and have never found any.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Something like this i think may fit ..... See the exact dimensions.
Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).
I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Xtreme2k said:
I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent, can't wait to see them!
I didn't hack it, its removable just like yours. If you consider it collectible I wouldn't change the deck then either way.
WhiteTitane said:
Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
As promised, here's some pictures. As you can see, the unit has snap-in connectors to mount the panel on the base unit. On the panel, the position of the connectors can be changed to set it higher or lower:
Here I used the highest position possible. This way, it sits right below the vents but does not block them.
Currently there are two problems: There is too much distance from the dashboard and the sides are uncovered.
I already modified the original connectors to shorten the distance (initially it was like 5mm more), but that's the maximum possible with the modification. Additonally, in this position the connection cable will bump into the dashboard with shorter distance because it sits above the radio bay:
So I put the panel one step lower. This way it does cover the heating controls about 1-2 mm, but I think that's fine.
This way, the connection cable is just in front of the radio bay so it would be possible to shorten the distance between radio and panel:
I'm just constructing new mounting connectors with shorter distance. If this works out, I'll also construct 3d-printed side covers to have it perfect.
Many thanks for the pics! Not a fan of the look but maybe I can live with it...
Is that the 6.2"?
Yes, it's the 6.2" one. I've now finished the new mounts and put it a little lower because it looks better that way. The air vent controls are partly covered by the screen, but still useable without problems.
My first set of 3D-printed mounts melted when the car was in the sun, now I made a new set with a more temperature-stable material (ABS instead of PLA). Hope this one will work
@WhiteTitane did you find a solution (nice S54 by the way, clownshoe or roadster?)
I've the same desire for my roadster, did you find a solution that didn't crowd the dash quite as much as the 6.2"?
Hope you did the fan mod on the 1-din chassis ? Older cars tend to have heater air leaks that could cause this install to overheat. Probably best to have the fan blowing into the head unit, and exhausting via the front cable hole.

NO SOUND COMING FROM THIS BOARD, HELP ME FIX THAT

Hello, has anyone got this motherboard?
It is hard to find a replacement, board is CHS-503DSP v2 (ALPSFF5000-8227L chipset), motherboard is working well, aswell as Android, but has no sound coming from it to speakers.
I can't get it to work.
Please reply if anyone has solution how to fix no sound issue.
When unit is in car, Android starts , all apps and radio turns on but when out to speakers I hear only buzzing sound and noise.
Thanks.
(upper board is motherboard with core board attached to it, lower is lcd screen board)
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You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
blue_one said:
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Anton TNT said:
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you expect to get from the forum?
If you want to fix that, you need to have the right tools to measure that like an oscilloscope, and the knowledge to read the board pin-out.
You can solder out the amplifier module and put in the same (or at least a similar with the same pin-out as the one which is installed.
If that helps... no one knows, because even something else can be the reason for this failure.
At least you should test with a single tone, may be 400khz, to measure the in- and output of the amplifier module.
Famous words: Take it to someone who knows how to measure the electronics, like a TV-electronic repair shop, if you find someone who is willing to repair that unit. I fear no one will do that, not even for cash money.
Best tip: Take it and throw it into the bin.
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Renate said:
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried all options so far with voltage multimeter. Voltages, rerouting directly on pins on amp (that goes on speakers) etc.
Sound is coming out but only noise , I mean noise like volume is up to max and you can hear buzzing sound, when antenna unpluged from device sound is distorted a starts to crackle.
That are the simptoms.
If anyone can help with their knowledge besides going to service shop thanks, if not it will go in trash bin.
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned, but I have soldered it and connected again with board.
It is giving voltage out and working.
Software isn't issue here as 8227L chipset works with variety of updates (installed and proved).
Replace capacitor c122 and resistor r33.
(,just kidding).
Sounds like audio processing/switch is dead Jim, but not as we know it.
Experience and the ability to reverse engineer is the key skill required to resolve this issue.
@rigattoni gives the best advice here. No one has a crystal ball.
Good luck, but it is a very big long shot asking people here to figure this out for you
Anton TNT said:
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Renate said:
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is LDO Jim? beam me up Scotty (clarify)
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Anton TNT said:
What is LDO Jim?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Renate said:
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Anton TNT said:
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Renate said:
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)
I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound.
I ordered a same little transistor (three leg) , will try to solder that on place when arrive.
The rest Android and all other stuff works well , JUST NO SOUND coming from device, but funny thing when I attach a USB audio output , Android turns to Headset mode and music plays, but only music no FM tuner / radio app.
Trying also with flashing of memory, to get ROOT, and then to clear cache of device from root directory, but my PC with WIN 10 doesn't recognize device and with all DA COM / ADB drivers installed and step by step video online.
Anton TNT said:
I soldered some wire on other not burned side...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
rigattoni said:
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is not much people arround to fix Android head units, so I'm asking help here , please understand me, as I have a little knwledge of android boards, PC yes , Android no !
If you are feeling helpfull help in any way but not in a terms of critisicm.
Thanks.
I will fix that in any way I can. That includes fixing with a help of electronic engineer or someone that knows what to do. As I mentioned only buzzing sound is coming from this board and when transferred thru USB DAC chip sounds go out so problem is some joint or this blown chip / transistor. We will see...
But I agree only on one, It is hard to do anything with no diagrams of this board.
Renate said:
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done that , and cleaned it and then soldered a piece of tungsten soldering wire on gold plates when joints are.
I'm surprised , I tought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not. If you can't see open as attachment and zoom in.
Anton TNT said:
I'm surprised , I thought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Renate said:
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
READ THIS LINE , I HAVE WROTE THIS BEFORE :
"Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)​I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound."
No matter , let's continue, happy New Year to you all and best wishes...
Yesterday I had a glimpse of success regarding sound and amplifier.
Maybe can anyone explain this...
After installing POWERAMP EQ app from playstore a few seconds of music played on main speakers, I could hear this, but in a sudden it stopped.

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