Database Users

Screen Problems and IC chips

I was trying to remove the camera on my N1 today and I broke off two small chips near the screen connector. These seem to control the red and green on the screen as I can only see blue and black on the screen right now. I was wondering:
1) If this could be what causes some people to have to much blue or red on their screens, and bad chip in my opinion could cause this.
2) If anyone knows a parts supplier who would be able to sell me these chips?
Thank you all.
labeled as red and green marked chips next to the screen connector
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Just wanted to add. Everything else works well and the phone seems fine just only blue shows up. So I will continue to use the phone and apply the blue render effect from cyanogen mod to hopefully not cause issues with the screen.

_Dennis_ said:
Just wanted to add. Everything else works well and the phone seems fine just only blue shows up. So I will continue to use the phone and apply the blue render effect from cyanogen mod to hopefully not cause issues with the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those appear to just be resistors to me, but you wouldn't be able to change them out with a normal soldering iron.
I'd suggest you look around for someone with some tools and SMD soldering experience. Although how you managed to break off some resister packs is beyond me. Or why one would try to manually remove a camera, also beyond me..

The soldering iron won't be a problem. I work in a shop that does repairs on circuit cards. I was removing the camera since I work in a area that has classified material and so am not allowed to have camera phones.
I also thought resistor packs but did not have time to meter them so I said IC because more people may be able to understand.

_Dennis_ said:
The soldering iron won't be a problem. I work in a shop that does repairs on circuit cards. I was removing the camera since I work in a area that has classified material and so am not allowed to have camera phones.
I also thought resistor packs but did not have time to meter them so I said IC because more people may be able to understand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good, hopefully someone can help you fix it, or you can fix it.. Hopefully no pads were lifted or damaged. PCB repair is always fun to do, although not terribly hard unless the connection goes down into another layer. I used to do it a few years back, wish I still had the equipment available every so often.
I'd definitely verify exactly what the IC's are, but from the appearance I'll bet they are RP's, but they are making inductors in packs these days too IIRC, and really they could be anything. Markings on them should be fairly easy to look up.

khaytsus said:
Good, hopefully someone can help you fix it, or you can fix it.. Hopefully no pads were lifted or damaged. PCB repair is always fun to do, although not terribly hard unless the connection goes down into another layer. I used to do it a few years back, wish I still had the equipment available every so often.
I'd definitely verify exactly what the IC's are, but from the appearance I'll bet they are RP's, but they are making inductors in packs these days too IIRC, and really they could be anything. Markings on them should be fairly easy to look up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aye, I'm buying a $60 water damaged N1 from eBay and wi will try to canabilize the parts I need from there....the post said screen works perfectly. The solder work won't be difficult, different then the resistors and DIPS I usually repair but not outside what I was trained in. I will attempt to look up any numbers I see under the microscope but I had it under earlier and did not notice any numbers, but I was not looking for numbers, just assessing damage which for one maybe repairable but the other is broken in 2 pieces. Thanks for the encouragement though.

I believe these might be 0-ohm resistor packs. Use a magnifier glass and try to read any markings they have, google them - you'll probably get the component datasheet in the results.

Well after further experimentation I have red and blue working. Though I get strange artifacts on the screen.

Edited 30/1/2012: My GPS 100% fixed (21/4/11 PICS ADDED)

EDIT: 30/1/2012.
Just a follow up on this fix. Well, got sick of constantly having to replace the tape under the battery cover. Over time it flattens, so since I now use the S2 as my daily phone I decided to open it up.
First I found the GPS connection on the motherboard. It connects to / touches a small metal piece on the inside of the rear housing. It's like a U shaped connector so I decided to lift it up with my fingernail.
For a little while it worked great but the problem returned. So I decided to open it up again and lift the connector even higher. Unfortunately I broke it leaving only a flat bottom metal piece on the motherboard side. There was now no way for the 2 pieces to touch so I screwed it completely.
So I then decided to solder a small bit on the rear housing side. I did that and put it back together. Ever since then the GPS has truely been 100% fixed. It hasn't missed a beat over the last 3 or so months of trying.
END EDIT.
NOTE: This is a hardware fix for those whose GPS is completely busted (NO sat views & lock). It is NOT a fix to improve tracking or lock or make an already working GPS better.
After flashing every modem, fw and kernal version I had completely given up on my galaxy s GPS. It had to be a hardware fault.
Back when I first got it, it was OK but a few months later became useless. This fix is hardware related and takes only minutes to diagnose and fix.
It's also probably more useful for pre-October models (i9000 international) which had this fault.
I do not take credit for finding out the fix. Credit for that goes to member 'allottios' (who heard about it from 'cbdrift') for bringing it to my attention on another forum topic.
The fix is simple. Remove the back cover and to the right of the speaker is the GPS antenna. It is covered by what looks like some sort of soft plastic tape.
Now open a GPS test app and then apply light pressure to the very top of the antenna with your finger. NOT the middle or bottom - that makes it worse.
If, like me your GPS shows instant improvement then you have just worked out your problem.
Simply attach a small piece of double sided tape or similar to the top of the antenna so that when you put the back cover on again their is pressure on that spot.
Hope you get the same results I did.
Edit: PICS ADDED: 1ST PIC - AT THE TOP RIGHT CORNER, YOU CAN SEE A WHITE STRIP WHICH IS THE DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE I ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE GPS ANTENNA. I DID NOT PEEL THE TOP LAYER FROM THE TAPE SO IT WOULDN'T STICK TO THE BACK COVER.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
,
Edit (03/05) - If this fix doesn't help, you may also want to try out another fix posted by 'stockie78' (post 209).
There is also a link below for more detail, including pics for this fix.
It is not as simple as the above fix and it involves removing the housing. I have not tried / tested this myself and am not responsible if you break your phone.
"stockie78
Unfortunately the g-spot trick did not work for me, so I decided to look a little closer and removed the plastic housing.
Another guy installed on the metal thingys there a cable and I did some test, too. Again no improvement with different cables and lengths.
But while fiddling around with the metal connector I thought maybe lifting it could help and indeed this was the trick for me. Improved my gps dramatically!
So instead of something pushing the antenna tighter, the metal connector now pushes harder and improves the signal quality.
Maybe a solution for some of you too..."
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA Premium App

I can confirm that this works for me! Got a lock in two seconds and the arrow followed my path perfectly while I was on the bus, a feat that seemed impossible before! Thanks a million!
If I let go of the antenna the gps loses it signal straight away..

Seriously this deserves a bump! Got a lock on 12 Satellites(!) when putting pressure on the top of the antenna and lost it as soon as I let go.

I`m seriously impressed. Tested on Sygic Aura, iGo and CoPilot and they localyze me immediatly !!!! THANKS A LOT !!!!!

Tried on my SGS and can't honestly see and difference

I did something similar a while back by taking the phone appart to access the interior parts of the phone. I then bent the connector for the GPS up so that more pressure would be applied. It worked great at first then started to get worse after some time. I'm guessing this is because the connector reverted back to its original position (kind of like an elastic).
I suppose this is a similar trick, but instead of applying more pressure from the connector, it does it from the cover. I'll try to get hold of some tape to try this.
By the way I have a Galaxy S from July, and GPS sucks badly on mine.

Need detailed pictures!
Hope it works!!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
My jam just dropped. I just got gps lock within seconds... in my living room, where I had occasionally one sat in sight.
Just applied a small piece of that blue sticky stuff on the very top of the gps antenna and voilà. Cover on and lock is a go go.
Thanks for sharing this

nice one! locked 12 sats after 5 secs!
so a small tape should do the trick eh?

Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!

Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!

Toss3 said:
Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here too, wtf if i knew that before ... i would not have so many gray hairs
thanks for sharing
p.s.: connection stays good without any further pressure here, put the cover on again, gps still great

I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duct tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!

Asterix040 said:
Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Second pic taken while indoors on a cloudy day!

Twinsis said:
I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duck tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not Duck. Duct, like air duct ; )

Toss3 said:
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be most appriciated. I'am visual person!

This actually works!!! I bought the galaxy s back in july and the last few months I have been unable to get a gps fix no matter what I tried! After reading this thread I went outside and pushed the top of the antenna. In a few seconds i got 5 meter accuracy and 8 satellites in use! Now I have to find a way to keep the antenna pressed! Thanks a million for the tip!

Samsung should buy you more than one beer!
How much money did they spent to fix that issue?
Thanks man!

This must be the sweet spot?
Edit: ops, to late ; )
/qsec

Well guys, I would like to try it, but my display seems to stop working as I remove the back cover?! Anyone has same issue? What could be wrong?
With backplate cover on, everything works just fine, but without....black screen. Although that phone seems to be responding

[FIX] i9000 i9001 gps final fix

Before to procede, remember all electrial component can have fault so exist warranty. If you want, procede at your own risk loosing warranty
For this tutorial is raccomanded professional leadfree soldering iron
i solved my gps problem, it is hardware problem, so no settings, gpsaids and no other solution helped me.
Problem is caused by bad gnd conductivity between mainboard and antenna. It is conduced by:
1) CONDUCTIVE GUMMY (suggest me better name if you have ) This kind of rubber was used for old nokia 8210 for connect display to mainboard. It was the mayor fault for nokia 8210.
2) back cover gps antenna: When phone become hot, antenna go back and not good touch with motherboard. Then, when phone isn't hot, gps antenna remains with a kind of "hole"
First try software fix (it not helped me) then try my solution
Solution:
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
SOLUTION: ​
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna,
if it is not used, you can remove and solder where was rubber
Now gps signal is immediate for me
Best regards
Leeno

The first picture is before and the second afterwards?

i moved in this third post the other solution,
it is easyer then solution in first post but i not like it because is not clean
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
For solve it i just removed rubber and soldered antenna to gps gnd mainboard like the picture.
Attention: if you use unprotected wire like picture, make sure it touch only gnd, not other components or you can damage phone.
Gnd require hard conductivity so
DO NOT USE VERY THIN WIRE

Ping-Pong said:
you csn also use gps files extracted from nexuss gingerbread
i think those have not changed in GRK39F
but i will be checking that today
ics.samsung-updates.com/stockplusmod/GPS_GRK39C.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
software can't fix hardware issues,
your posted file will only update settings and north american server for gps
i fixed i9000 froyo with my fix

Looks interesting. Might give this a go thanks.
Sent from my Android shizzle!

Where do you find the "third antenna contact"? I guess there are three and I do not want to take the second ...

here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna

I thought that the other connection was for GPS

What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Besides yours there is also another post that does the same thing. Takes you to the first one http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1043034
So no need for another one.

Trak-X said:
What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
So no need for another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sorry, you're wrong.
THIS fix were not known at all! The thread you linked just refer to pull up the OTHER contact of the gps antenna, not the RUBBER ONE, which actually is the source of the problem.
So the next time please read carefully before suggesting someone a search.
This thread is VERY USEFUL! This man deserves all the praise and should be acknowledged of the REAL FINAL GPS FIX which turned my phone into what should have been since the first day!

I was skeptical to say the least.
but this time, I have to admit: this solution works INSANELY WELL.
I made my own modded version, though. I removed the third unused antenna contact, and placed it over the conductive rubbed. no soldering involved. pressure keeps the contact in position and enhances the connection between antenna and mobo, similar but more effective than the other older solutions.
btw, I also changed server from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net, just like in my old acer liquid which locks really instactly.
connecting now in seconds in my living room (!!!) with 7 to 9 satellites. awesome. never happened before.
you deserve a huge thanks.

I did it this morning. I removed the rubber and soldered a wire between the contacts. I never had such a signal on my i9000, the gps works perfectly.
Huge thanks from here too.

anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone

oracula whedka
wowww:good:

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures in first post are self explaining.
I did not bother soldering anything. Just removed the unused antenna with some tweezers and placed it on top of the existing conductive rubber (but reversed upside down, though, to keep it level), I used a tiny bit of duct tape to hold it in place and to be sure it does not touch any other contact on the mobo.
I cannot exclude to solder it or use some conductive glue in the future, anyway, it sounds safer.
I can confirm this is THE solution. I am really astonished.

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)

trut said:
I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)[/QUOT
gps.conf in /system/etc, you need a rooted phone the mod this file.
default server in sgs1 is "north-america.pool.ntp.org" which supposedly is not correct for european users. following suggestion here at xda, I changed the line to "europe.pool.ntp.org" months ago, and now after givig a look to gps.conf in the acer liquid to "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and live happily with that.
I do not think this is the point, anyway. My old acer liquid uses "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and locks sats in the blink of an eye, ditto for my wife's htc desire which has "pool.ntp.org". Any software related mod could be just placebo.
as far as I know (google search..), hot glue is not conductive. if so, you are not fixing anything. but I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I use hot glue just from side to fix connect in place and check with multimeter all good. In my gps.conf i change from "pool.ntp.org" to "europe.pool.ntp.org" voila first fix time 00:31 and also me not use any help like wifi or mobile data just clean gps. However this fix work...

Hmmm....
I will give it a try soon.
Thanks man!!!
Gesendet von meinem GT-I9000 mit Tapatalk 2

DIY Atrix Monitor (With Tutorial and pics!!!)

So I'm making a flexible, detachable monitor out of my atrix lapdock, a cheap flexible lamp, some cheap aluminium and a micro-hdmi -> hdmi converter!!!
Lamp
Here http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Electri...1392864024&sr=1-7&keywords=flexible+desk+lamp
or Here http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Harbor-TL-TB-170-BK3L-Flexible-Black/dp/B002SDNSF6
NOTE: Not the same one I used, as I just used what I had lying around, it needs to have a large diameter neck to fit the cords inside.
So far I have the initial mount tapped and screwed onto the head of the lamp, and the Power cord whittled down to fit through it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Lapdock
Only necessary parts are the motherboard and the Hall Sensor plugged into it to make the screen work, seen here
Aluminium
Making a case from aluminum to cover/protect internals, this will be screwed into the back of the lapdock's screen and attached/detached
from the lamp mount via magnets.
HDMI Converter
Here is the one I'm ordering.
http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-P...-1-catcorr&keywords=female+micro+hdmi+to+hdmi
I will make a tut when this is complete.
*** For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint? Not sure if this is from handling internals so much and causing damage or what but it worked fine on my other Atrix? If anyone has an extra broken lapdock they'd like to donate so I can fix this? Not needed but very welcome Now that the phone is so old,
I hope more cool projects like this come up.
***ALSO I want to squeeze an hdmi through the lamp neck however connector is much too large. Anyone know if you can cut an HDMI and successfully solder it back on? (Something like 19 wires?)

Anybody interested in doing this? I've ordered my cable and will post the assembled pics when it arrives!

jeffreygtab said:
For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/

Renate NST said:
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring to the 30pin or the one that the lcd plugs into? I have no idea what the schematics are for the lapdock so that'd help. If it's fixable I'll try giving it a soldering when I go to robotics! I'm just learning though so hopefully I don't botch it.

Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.

Renate NST said:
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its the Motorola atrix lapdock. The "No signal" popped up recently and it didn't display accurate whites at all...

Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.

Renate NST said:
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like something I easily could have done because I was fiddling with the connectors a ton during the initial tear down. I'll post pics tomorrow morning.
EDIT: Pics, I don't see why it's not working...

Yeah The LVDS cable is way to small to see if it's damaged... I guess I'll just have to deal with it.

A real 1 DIN Android unit

Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.

I'm hoping to be able to achieve something like that:

I had a pyle slide out touchscreen in my ranger. I just had to adjust the screen so it didn't hit the vent above it similar to your setup. What I did instead though was remove the vent and block it off above the single din. that made a nice slot for the screen to fit when extended. Wish I had pictures but I switched trucks and haven't swapped stereo decks yet. Used the back up camera input to plug in whatever I wanted, bypassed the e brake safety, and wired the control for the camera to a switch. You could do something similar
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

WhiteTitane said:
Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've searched high and low and have never found any.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Something like this i think may fit ..... See the exact dimensions.

Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).

I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

Xtreme2k said:
I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent, can't wait to see them!

I didn't hack it, its removable just like yours. If you consider it collectible I wouldn't change the deck then either way.
WhiteTitane said:
Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

As promised, here's some pictures. As you can see, the unit has snap-in connectors to mount the panel on the base unit. On the panel, the position of the connectors can be changed to set it higher or lower:
Here I used the highest position possible. This way, it sits right below the vents but does not block them.
Currently there are two problems: There is too much distance from the dashboard and the sides are uncovered.
I already modified the original connectors to shorten the distance (initially it was like 5mm more), but that's the maximum possible with the modification. Additonally, in this position the connection cable will bump into the dashboard with shorter distance because it sits above the radio bay:
So I put the panel one step lower. This way it does cover the heating controls about 1-2 mm, but I think that's fine.
This way, the connection cable is just in front of the radio bay so it would be possible to shorten the distance between radio and panel:
I'm just constructing new mounting connectors with shorter distance. If this works out, I'll also construct 3d-printed side covers to have it perfect.

Many thanks for the pics! Not a fan of the look but maybe I can live with it...
Is that the 6.2"?

Yes, it's the 6.2" one. I've now finished the new mounts and put it a little lower because it looks better that way. The air vent controls are partly covered by the screen, but still useable without problems.
My first set of 3D-printed mounts melted when the car was in the sun, now I made a new set with a more temperature-stable material (ABS instead of PLA). Hope this one will work

@WhiteTitane did you find a solution (nice S54 by the way, clownshoe or roadster?)
I've the same desire for my roadster, did you find a solution that didn't crowd the dash quite as much as the 6.2"?

Hope you did the fan mod on the 1-din chassis ? Older cars tend to have heater air leaks that could cause this install to overheat. Probably best to have the fan blowing into the head unit, and exhausting via the front cable hole.