I was trying to remove the camera on my N1 today and I broke off two small chips near the screen connector. These seem to control the red and green on the screen as I can only see blue and black on the screen right now. I was wondering:
1) If this could be what causes some people to have to much blue or red on their screens, and bad chip in my opinion could cause this.
2) If anyone knows a parts supplier who would be able to sell me these chips?
Thank you all.
labeled as red and green marked chips next to the screen connector
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Just wanted to add. Everything else works well and the phone seems fine just only blue shows up. So I will continue to use the phone and apply the blue render effect from cyanogen mod to hopefully not cause issues with the screen.
_Dennis_ said:
Just wanted to add. Everything else works well and the phone seems fine just only blue shows up. So I will continue to use the phone and apply the blue render effect from cyanogen mod to hopefully not cause issues with the screen.
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Those appear to just be resistors to me, but you wouldn't be able to change them out with a normal soldering iron.
I'd suggest you look around for someone with some tools and SMD soldering experience. Although how you managed to break off some resister packs is beyond me. Or why one would try to manually remove a camera, also beyond me..
The soldering iron won't be a problem. I work in a shop that does repairs on circuit cards. I was removing the camera since I work in a area that has classified material and so am not allowed to have camera phones.
I also thought resistor packs but did not have time to meter them so I said IC because more people may be able to understand.
_Dennis_ said:
The soldering iron won't be a problem. I work in a shop that does repairs on circuit cards. I was removing the camera since I work in a area that has classified material and so am not allowed to have camera phones.
I also thought resistor packs but did not have time to meter them so I said IC because more people may be able to understand.
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Good, hopefully someone can help you fix it, or you can fix it.. Hopefully no pads were lifted or damaged. PCB repair is always fun to do, although not terribly hard unless the connection goes down into another layer. I used to do it a few years back, wish I still had the equipment available every so often.
I'd definitely verify exactly what the IC's are, but from the appearance I'll bet they are RP's, but they are making inductors in packs these days too IIRC, and really they could be anything. Markings on them should be fairly easy to look up.
khaytsus said:
Good, hopefully someone can help you fix it, or you can fix it.. Hopefully no pads were lifted or damaged. PCB repair is always fun to do, although not terribly hard unless the connection goes down into another layer. I used to do it a few years back, wish I still had the equipment available every so often.
I'd definitely verify exactly what the IC's are, but from the appearance I'll bet they are RP's, but they are making inductors in packs these days too IIRC, and really they could be anything. Markings on them should be fairly easy to look up.
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Aye, I'm buying a $60 water damaged N1 from eBay and wi will try to canabilize the parts I need from there....the post said screen works perfectly. The solder work won't be difficult, different then the resistors and DIPS I usually repair but not outside what I was trained in. I will attempt to look up any numbers I see under the microscope but I had it under earlier and did not notice any numbers, but I was not looking for numbers, just assessing damage which for one maybe repairable but the other is broken in 2 pieces. Thanks for the encouragement though.
I believe these might be 0-ohm resistor packs. Use a magnifier glass and try to read any markings they have, google them - you'll probably get the component datasheet in the results.
Well after further experimentation I have red and blue working. Though I get strange artifacts on the screen.
Related
Hi,
Tried to change cover according to the pdf found in a thread earlier.
Got everything in place BUT the display is nothing but black...
I reallt dont think that the display is broken. My guess is that I did something wrong trying to put back the flexible wiring to the connector.
Can anyone help me fix this problem?
Dunno what specifically to be extra careful of when doing this.
Any other idea what might be wrong?!?
Pls, any thoughts are worthful to me! Just want my beautiful "new" black magician to work again...
/Emil
Same crap happened to me last night!
I painted the cover and expected to be done in about 30 minutes.
At the end 4,5 hours of taking apart en putting it back,
just because the screen stayed blank (sometimes white, mostly black)
Anyway, I figured the problem.. so here it goes..
When you look at the yellow flatcable you notice 2 ears sticking out...
This "ears" suppose to go as far as possible
to line up with the outside line of the green board.
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Yellow = flatcable
Green = board
Black = Slot (where you stick the flat cable in)
Red = imaginary line to line up the back of the "ear" with the board
So when you cannot push enough with your fingers,
take a small screwdriver and push the ears further in the slot.
Just be careful not to break the ear...
I suppose if it break it might take some connections in
the flatcable with it, thus a new screen is needed.
Thanks for your reply!
I checked and I rearranged the flatcable into different locations but no change in a better direction. Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Still need some help!
Any more tips or do I have to throw away my beloved magician...?
Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeb, know what you mean... Have experice the same.. your screen is definitly oke, not cracked, broke or whatever..
The flat cable is not in far enough or the connection is broken on one side, which means when you put it back together the flatcable slides out a bit. Mine is broken on one side and though I don't think that a broken small clip would mean replacing the whole thing, I did tape it tight to be sure it stays there.
So mate, try again... I dunno how I have to make clear what "push harder" means.. but it's harder than you would expect with this delicate stuff.
If I have to compare the pressure applied to get the flatcable in slot I would say it comes close to pushing an IDE connection into it's slot... it's really hard...
Maybe another guide-line... When you slide in the black middle piece it should NOT touch the flat cable. (well, almost not)
Anyway, let me know in which dumpster you gonna throw it, So i pick it up and sell it back to you
I see...
I pushed the cable in so far so that the "ears" you mentioned earlier touches the white plastic where the cable goes under. Meaning you can´t physically push it any more... Do you understand what I mean? In this position the display is black. It´s when I pull out the cable one or two mm that I get the white screen with stripe on it.
Maybe it´s the broken connection you´re talking about. Have to check if I can see anything of that. Not quite sure what you mean though.
Do you mean that where the cable is connected on the other side, that is where it could have come off?
How can I check if this is the case?
Guess I must have spent 15 hours minimum at this crap now...!!!
Anyone can help me, my TyTN fall from my home stairs and I can't get signal after that.. I checked at the "Device Information" in the setting and it shows no Radio ROM.. so I try to install the radio ROM but im getting error during the installation.. I believe it is the hardware faulty and appreciate if anyone knows what is it and where can i get the replacement of the hardware..
FYI.. my TyTN can still be operated, its just cannot get the signal..
Thanking everyone's help in advance....
i'm not sure if you resolved the issue or not, but i'm selling an AT&T 8525. I'll sell it to you for $300 shipped as long as you live in the usa.
I'm not familiar with the insides of the phone, but there are a few options. 1, open it up and find out what's wrong. There could be a connector or circuit that broke and would only require minimal effort to fix. 2, find out if HTC can repair it for you through non-warrenty repair. 3, buy another phone online(like through ebay) that's only good for parts and use it for repairs.
Of course, if you don't feel up to opening it up, you could always find a friend or repair shop that might be willing to try.
ok one of these days i am going to write a book on how to re-attach antennas as the one in the TyTN is similar to the herm100 i presume
you cant miss it, its a big gold rod that slots into a V clip on the main board, a serious jolt could pop its loose, but it wont take much to pop back in, just be careful when you put the cover back on
Yep, there it is top left
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And here it is disconnected.
However, I'm not convinced there is sufficient space available for that pin to disconnect while the casing is in place. My fear is a more destructive M/Board fault.
Mike
he could have shatterd the V clip off the board
It's more likely the golden connector from the picture got disconnected than that a board or chip broken. It would require the CASING to break in order for the board to break.
Open it up, take a chance. It's not so hard, just scary the first time.
alkizmo said:
It's more likely the golden connector from the picture got disconnected than that a board or chip broken. It would require the CASING to break in order for the board to break.
Open it up, take a chance. It's not so hard, just scary the first time.
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We could take bets on what it is! No that wouldn't be fair would it
I agree it's worth opening up to check the connection. Depending on how hard the fall was it could be a variety of things. Don't agree that the motherboard can only crack if the casing breaks though - I've seen many examples of cracked m'boards and hardly a scratch on the case.
The OP seems to have disappeared anyway!
Mike
Thanks for the replies.. i've just been busy lately..
Will try your suggestion later to check the golden connector 'coz i've been opened it up many times already so its not a scary things to do for me...
will report back the results
hey again mates..
I already check on the golden connector and it seems fine.. everything is in contact and no physical crack was found or whatsoever...
I believe my TyTN is having the same problem with the one in this thread because I have similar symptoms like
1/ i can't flash radio back (the process hang in a middle of the flashing progress).
2/ there's no Radio & Protocol version in the "Settings->System->Device Information"
3/ no IMEI in the "Settings->System->Device Information"
Anyway, Is there a way to write the IMEI no. for the TyTN? maybe if there is an IMEI no. in the TyTN then can I flash the radio ROM.. i think.. and its worth trying (if possible) . or maybe its a hardware problem like in the thread above...
same wif my herm100 hard fall and no more signal
think tat is crack in gsm chips,u just look forward on gsm chips to replace ur old 1,then should be fine and work well ^^
Help: "O" "P" "L" "Enter" Keys not working anymore.
After getting a white screen, I did the fix of placing a small plastic by the black square chip, and assembled again, not a problem with the white screen anymore.
But I just had another problem, after assembling the phone back again, some keys on the keyboard stopped working: "O" "P" "L" and "Enter", and the key on top of the "I", looks like a softkey, but the other one works fine.
All of the rest of the keys work fine, but those 5 keys don't.
I checked for any dirt or something obstructing the keyboard chip, and the rubber, but nothing seemed bad.
I alo tried putting 3 sheets of paper cut in the size of the chip, but that didn't help.
I do use the keyboard, does any1 have an idea of why this is happening?
Usually complete failure of certain keys is down to one of two causes
1.
The ribbon cable is damaged - (think it unlikely unless it was cut or severely bent)
2.
The ribbon cable connector is not seated properly or needs cleaning or is damaged:
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Worth re-seating that a few times just to be sure - and it only needs the back casing to be removed (maybe you've tried that already?)
Mike
Could be buildup of corrosion between the keys and the Keypad. Visit Mikes site in his sig at bottom of his post to find the illustrations and instructions on what to do but make sure you test Mikes suggestion first. Cleaning the keyboard contacts is a more intensive job then just reseating the connector...
Cheers...
Yeah I was going to try to remove the white sticker as he posted on some other threads, but trying to remove the sticker seems hard and scary.
But, it seems very strange, that this happened after fixing the white screen issue with the small piece of plasti card.
The card shouldn't affect it as the keyboard is in the bottom half of the Hermes and the screen is on the slideout section. The thing that could have been hurt is the ribbon cable that attaches onto the mainboard Or the connections at the back of the LCD.
So saying though, I have found strange effects from mainboard problems messing with the LCD (my flywheel pcb broke and caused no backlight on LCD). But I wouldn't htink it would work the other way as it would be the mainboard where problems would originate, not be the byproduct.
Cheers...
Yeah, the card should not be a problem as I thought.
I have another hermes, which had the white screen, but at the time, I did not know how to fix it. The problem is that, I had issues with mine because it did not charge or power up anymore, I think the problem was the use of different chargers not made for the Hermes.
But anyways, I'll try to switch the keyboard from the old one into this and see if the problem lies with the keyboard, or cable. I'll try this tomorrow, and let you know guys about this.
I always find its easier, if you have the parts, to replace... Its when you have no choice you have the hard time..
Cheers...
Wow.
I just tried changing the keyboard from the old device into this one, same problem with the same keys... Then i said, ok, it must be the cable, so switched cables, and the same issue still :|.
I just had reset the device and it's still not working.
This has to be something else..
Possibly motherboard... You could try replacing the other MB, that is if it still works, other wise the connector may need to be cleaned - both on the MB and on the ribbon.. Use only isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirits) and a cotton bud. Never use Metho as it leaves a residue.
If that doesn't work then it must be the MB as you've tried changing the keyboard and ribbon. Little else to cause the problem.
Personally I'd try the mainboard as its fairly easy and doesn't require that much more effort than what you've already done. Remember though that you will have ALL the old data on the other phone. Old OS, settings and contacts...
Cheers...
In the process of trying to fix my loose hinge I must have broken my volume button. There is a tiny grey piece of plastic that gets pushed in. In the photo the volume button on the right is the up volume and works fine but down button doesn't have the grey piece.
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Does anybody have any ideas? I would be ok with replacing that whole little yellow switch if I have to. I have a pretty fine soldering iron tip.
help please!
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
echizen said:
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
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Click to collapse
Do you know of an online electronics shop that sells tact switches like this?
What do you mean by redoing with some plastic?
I have an old Palm Treo 650 that I'm going to tear apart and look for parts. I'm not at home right now but I found this picture and the buttons on the top left look very similar to the Desire Z ones.
Does anyone know if there are any electrical issues about the switch that I should consider before using a different one?
I was a cell tech for 5 years and replaces tons of volume and ptt switches. You can use a switch from any phone to replace it. Voltage doesn't matter on these and all seem to be the same size. You could probably buy a broken desire z or use one from any old phone. My old word of caution would be that some phones use ribbon (flex) wires that have a built-in switch that wouldn't be compatible for use. I know a ton of iden phones (older ones like i730/530/610) use the proper switches. Maybe a local sprint store might have some old water damged models that would be perfect. It would have to be a service center though. Good luck!
Oh and any non lead based solder will do but be sure you solder it down good. It make take a few tries and before to pull on the switch a little to make sure it was a secure burn...
Oh... lol! The treo switch will work fine as a replacement. Be sure to not burn off the the soldering pad on the board of your G2. And carefull with the removal of the treo's switch. They break easily...
Thanks so much sino8r!!!
I had an old samsung that uses the ribbon button you mention.
Now I just need to find my old Treo. I was letting my kids play with it and I thought it was sitting the the toy box. Now I have to rip apart my house looking for this thing. =)
Yeah I got non-lead based solder but I think I'll need to get a finer tip to my iron. I have the Hakko 936. Any tip recommendations?
Also, there looks to be 5 solder points on the Desire Z switch. Two on each side and on behind. The behind one isn't really shown in my picture. Do you know which solder points are the important ones and which ones are for strength?
I hope I can document my progress enough so that others with the same problem can fix their phones too!
sino8r, is this the phone you were talking about?
Why would you want to use lead free solder? Leaded solder has a lower melting point and flows much easier. I mean honestly, just use what you have on hand, but is there a reason why you would specify that he use lead free?
I'm wondering if anyone can identify the two components circled in red in the lower right corner of this image?
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I recently replaced the screen on my Nexus 6P, but these two component came loose (likely from when I took off the screen connector below them). One of them was lost as well.
After replacing the screen everything seems to work ok except that the Sim card is not detected. (The same sim works in other phones.) I'm suspecting that these two components are the issue. It's pretty likely that I would not be able to successfully replace them, but then again it might be worth trying.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Your image link don't work..
But btw, why did you replace it? Broken?
I hear it's a very difficult and risky process to replace screens on 6P..
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I just updated the image in the original post. I think it should show up now.
I dropped the phone from about two feet up and the touch screen quit working. Replacing the screen was a bit daunting, but actually seemed to go quite well until I figured out the sim was not recognized any more. It was a bit tough to pry off the camera shield on the back and to pry the insides from the body the first time. But now I can do it without too much trouble.
I think that the two parts I wan to identify might have been a bit damaged before (water damage?), and then I might have inadvertently helped them along.
balesse said:
I'm wondering if anyone can identify the two components circled in red in the lower right corner of this image?
I recently replaced the screen on my Nexus 6P, but these two component came loose (likely from when I took off the screen connector below them). One of them was lost as well.
After replacing the screen everything seems to work ok except that the Sim card is not detected. (The same sim works in other phones.) I'm suspecting that these two components are the issue. It's pretty likely that I would not be able to successfully replace them, but then again it might be worth trying.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't see your image for some reason either on Tapatalk but I can in web view. Check ifixit for a full outlook of internal parts:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6P+Teardown/51660
Edit: On second thought, the piece you're asking about wouldn't be discussed by them.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
That's gonna be tough with no markings on the board or components. Google "identify smd components" might yield some helpful results. I think they are either smd resistors or fuses. As a last resort bridge the connections individually with solder or conductive glue. Check with multimeter after you bridge them to insure no resistance (good connection). Really looks more like those are components for the display circuit though.
normally those are some resistor smd.
you can check on other phones (service manuals) what kind of component is there.
i saw a service manual for lg g3 here on xda, you can check whatever you want but try to search for a component like that.