Help: "O" "P" "L" "Enter" Keys not working anymore.
After getting a white screen, I did the fix of placing a small plastic by the black square chip, and assembled again, not a problem with the white screen anymore.
But I just had another problem, after assembling the phone back again, some keys on the keyboard stopped working: "O" "P" "L" and "Enter", and the key on top of the "I", looks like a softkey, but the other one works fine.
All of the rest of the keys work fine, but those 5 keys don't.
I checked for any dirt or something obstructing the keyboard chip, and the rubber, but nothing seemed bad.
I alo tried putting 3 sheets of paper cut in the size of the chip, but that didn't help.
I do use the keyboard, does any1 have an idea of why this is happening?
Usually complete failure of certain keys is down to one of two causes
1.
The ribbon cable is damaged - (think it unlikely unless it was cut or severely bent)
2.
The ribbon cable connector is not seated properly or needs cleaning or is damaged:
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Worth re-seating that a few times just to be sure - and it only needs the back casing to be removed (maybe you've tried that already?)
Mike
Could be buildup of corrosion between the keys and the Keypad. Visit Mikes site in his sig at bottom of his post to find the illustrations and instructions on what to do but make sure you test Mikes suggestion first. Cleaning the keyboard contacts is a more intensive job then just reseating the connector...
Cheers...
Yeah I was going to try to remove the white sticker as he posted on some other threads, but trying to remove the sticker seems hard and scary.
But, it seems very strange, that this happened after fixing the white screen issue with the small piece of plasti card.
The card shouldn't affect it as the keyboard is in the bottom half of the Hermes and the screen is on the slideout section. The thing that could have been hurt is the ribbon cable that attaches onto the mainboard Or the connections at the back of the LCD.
So saying though, I have found strange effects from mainboard problems messing with the LCD (my flywheel pcb broke and caused no backlight on LCD). But I wouldn't htink it would work the other way as it would be the mainboard where problems would originate, not be the byproduct.
Cheers...
Yeah, the card should not be a problem as I thought.
I have another hermes, which had the white screen, but at the time, I did not know how to fix it. The problem is that, I had issues with mine because it did not charge or power up anymore, I think the problem was the use of different chargers not made for the Hermes.
But anyways, I'll try to switch the keyboard from the old one into this and see if the problem lies with the keyboard, or cable. I'll try this tomorrow, and let you know guys about this.
I always find its easier, if you have the parts, to replace... Its when you have no choice you have the hard time..
Cheers...
Wow.
I just tried changing the keyboard from the old device into this one, same problem with the same keys... Then i said, ok, it must be the cable, so switched cables, and the same issue still :|.
I just had reset the device and it's still not working.
This has to be something else..
Possibly motherboard... You could try replacing the other MB, that is if it still works, other wise the connector may need to be cleaned - both on the MB and on the ribbon.. Use only isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirits) and a cotton bud. Never use Metho as it leaves a residue.
If that doesn't work then it must be the MB as you've tried changing the keyboard and ribbon. Little else to cause the problem.
Personally I'd try the mainboard as its fairly easy and doesn't require that much more effort than what you've already done. Remember though that you will have ALL the old data on the other phone. Old OS, settings and contacts...
Cheers...
Related
Hi,
Tried to change cover according to the pdf found in a thread earlier.
Got everything in place BUT the display is nothing but black...
I reallt dont think that the display is broken. My guess is that I did something wrong trying to put back the flexible wiring to the connector.
Can anyone help me fix this problem?
Dunno what specifically to be extra careful of when doing this.
Any other idea what might be wrong?!?
Pls, any thoughts are worthful to me! Just want my beautiful "new" black magician to work again...
/Emil
Same crap happened to me last night!
I painted the cover and expected to be done in about 30 minutes.
At the end 4,5 hours of taking apart en putting it back,
just because the screen stayed blank (sometimes white, mostly black)
Anyway, I figured the problem.. so here it goes..
When you look at the yellow flatcable you notice 2 ears sticking out...
This "ears" suppose to go as far as possible
to line up with the outside line of the green board.
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Yellow = flatcable
Green = board
Black = Slot (where you stick the flat cable in)
Red = imaginary line to line up the back of the "ear" with the board
So when you cannot push enough with your fingers,
take a small screwdriver and push the ears further in the slot.
Just be careful not to break the ear...
I suppose if it break it might take some connections in
the flatcable with it, thus a new screen is needed.
Thanks for your reply!
I checked and I rearranged the flatcable into different locations but no change in a better direction. Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Still need some help!
Any more tips or do I have to throw away my beloved magician...?
Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeb, know what you mean... Have experice the same.. your screen is definitly oke, not cracked, broke or whatever..
The flat cable is not in far enough or the connection is broken on one side, which means when you put it back together the flatcable slides out a bit. Mine is broken on one side and though I don't think that a broken small clip would mean replacing the whole thing, I did tape it tight to be sure it stays there.
So mate, try again... I dunno how I have to make clear what "push harder" means.. but it's harder than you would expect with this delicate stuff.
If I have to compare the pressure applied to get the flatcable in slot I would say it comes close to pushing an IDE connection into it's slot... it's really hard...
Maybe another guide-line... When you slide in the black middle piece it should NOT touch the flat cable. (well, almost not)
Anyway, let me know in which dumpster you gonna throw it, So i pick it up and sell it back to you
I see...
I pushed the cable in so far so that the "ears" you mentioned earlier touches the white plastic where the cable goes under. Meaning you can´t physically push it any more... Do you understand what I mean? In this position the display is black. It´s when I pull out the cable one or two mm that I get the white screen with stripe on it.
Maybe it´s the broken connection you´re talking about. Have to check if I can see anything of that. Not quite sure what you mean though.
Do you mean that where the cable is connected on the other side, that is where it could have come off?
How can I check if this is the case?
Guess I must have spent 15 hours minimum at this crap now...!!!
Hi!
I got a weird problem. Seems like the buttons on the screen part have some problems.
When I press some of the button on Universal screen don't work but instead
the up button keep pressed, not phisically but logical.
It's annoyning because I must reset it to back a normal function.
I opened the screen part I checked and made some pression all over the conecctions, without the
back case worked ok, but when I put the back case on the screen the problem returns.
Please any ideas, solutions.
Thanx again, greeting from Chile
I have the same problem. If I rotate the screen around a bit the buttons work fine, but if the screen is on straight the buttons sometimes just keep on going.
I thought it's a faulty cable between the main body and the screen part, but seeing how it works for you maybe it's a connector problem? I bought a new cable and will see if it helps. Mine has a screen color issue too (screens is blueish).
patrickl said:
I have the same problem. If I rotate the screen around a bit the buttons work fine, but if the screen is on straight the buttons sometimes just keep on going.
I thought it's a faulty cable between the main body and the screen part, but seeing how it works for you maybe it's a connector problem? I bought a new cable and will see if it helps. Mine has a screen color issue too (screens is blueish).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to identify what the problem is, but I didn't find anything. I tried pressing the conecctor to the buttons parts , I cleaned the pins, pulled the flex cable, and nothing ....sometimes it worked and sometimes not. Whatever I will to exchange or replace with another.
Grilloman said:
I tried to identify what the problem is, but I didn't find anything. I tried pressing the conecctor to the buttons parts , I cleaned the pins, pulled the flex cable, and nothing ....sometimes it worked and sometimes not. Whatever I will to exchange or replace with another.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a cable break too. I think with mine it went wrong when I turned the screen too far. Somehow the rotation was not blocked anymore and I think it got twisted too tight and the wires in the flex cable were damaged. Wiggling the screen would help sometimes, but the problem deteriorated over time.
I finally received the new flex cable I ordered. I paid 44 GBP (66 EUR) for the flex cable to a company in Hong Kong. I think they are raising the prices of these cables, because I thought I saw them for 30 to 40 euro earlier.
Installing this new flex cable indeed got rid of the problem with the buttons and the problem with the blue color of the screen. Both problems rendered the PDA practically useless and now it's working again.
Unfortunately I somehow managed to break the camera. It says "failed to initialize" when I start the camera software I looked it up and people claim it could be caused by dropping the PDA, but I guess completely taking it apart and putting it back together might cause the problem too
To replace the cable I needed to take the PDA completely apart:
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:edit: Wow I checked ebay and the only flex cable seller i could find asks $119 for it. They are really becoming more and more expensive or perhaps I just didn't search properly.
:edit2: The store where I bought it still has some for sale for 39GBP
Not sure why but my u key requires a hard press that other keys don't.
I tried compressed air but it didn't help.
Its the only button I have trouble with.
Pressing it lots of times doesn't help either.
Suggestions?
i have the same problem with my "E" Key
if anyone has a fix for it thatd be wonderful
because im so accustomed to pressing a key, and hearing the click, so i go on to hit the next one
just to realize my E didnt hit
I have the same problem with "O" key lol
Still havent found a solution.
I am having the same problem with "u" key. Tried running the cingular keyboard fix. Didn't work
Never occurred to me that it might be software related. I just assumed it was hardware.
lol the cingular keyboard fix doesnt fix that
its for if you install say, the official Dopod WM6 Rom to your Cingular 8525, the key layout isnt the same, so the fix puts the right layout number into the registry
no software can correct a hardware problem
trjons said:
Never occurred to me that it might be software related. I just assumed it was hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not software related
it seems to happen on the keys that you press the most
U E O -- all vowels used quite often
well i guess ill take one for the team
ill be the b*tch to disassemble it haha
ill get back to ya in a few
crap.
oh well...if my phone is toast I may as well upgrade to the kaiser...
so yeah f*ck that lol
i tried to get the back face plate off...
and now the slider thingy to the battery cover is stuck in place?
anyone have that problem? and how can i get that completely closed? coz it looks like the back just didnt close all the way?
UPDATE
i took it completely apart - took the keyboard out - the circuit board and the membrane - blew on it
put my phone back together
and viola! the E works FINE! =)
theres a fix...but no more warranty lol
i'm gonna waint another year so my warranty voids and then take it apart lol
Thanks for the info
Correction
it was working perfectly for a few hours
and right back to the harder presses...grr
ive already taken it apart 5 times since yesterday lmao
because first the PTT button didnt line up right
then the Camera MACRO adjustment wasnt aligned
then the back cover release didnt line up
then the bottom clip wouldnt snap into place...but that was because of the back cover release
so yeah now ive got it working as if i had never touched it....lmao
buuttt...im thinking of taking it all apart and spraypainting it Flat Black?
i think thatd look pretty dayumm sweeet
interesting...
the entire keypad is a single strand.
I thought about popping up a single key but they are connected.
yepp - one large membranee
This practical solution applies only to those situations where one or a few keys are unresponsive.
It DOES NOT apply to a general unresponsiveness of the keyboard where all keys are slow to respond or "laggy" (this would more likely be a software related problem/low memory/too many running progs etc).
Right...... for a long time I have meant to investigate the keyboard and its problem keys.
It has all become clear.
The keyboard does NOT use a conductive rubber membrane - Which would in my view have been better, though would not have the key press clicks.
The Keyboard does use small isolated concave metal disks, stuck on a white plastic film that in turn sticks to the board.
The major problem with metal is the oxidation layer that forms on the surface. Repeated pressing of the keys may keep the oxides away but not reliably.
So if you are brave you can peel back the sticky white film with the disks on it - at least until you get to the problem key and clean the disk. A wipe will not be enough, you will need to use something more abrasive and be careful not to get greasy fingers on the sticky film. A fiddly and rather tricky job - but possible.
I advise you NOT to peel the white plastic layer completely off. If you do you may find it difficult to line it up accurately after cleaning!!
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I suggest cleanning the contacts (including the disks with a small piece of steel wool.
I will not supply a dismantling guide here. There are plenty around. See my signature website for links to some and the Service Manual.
Mike
Screw it.
i'll just buy a Kaiser.
What happens when my space bar V,G,T key don't work. I have replaced both the keyboard and the membrain. The same keys are still not working. I was wondering if it could be the ribbon cable, so I replaced that to. Same story, no keys working. Now where should I start looking? It has not gotten wet nor have I dropped it.
Thanks
Does opening up the phone void the warranty?
How would HTC know?
Yes, there is a "Void if removed" sticker covering a screw you need to remove. Check out the HTC service manual (use the search function) or go to Mike Channon's web page. You'll find HOW to take your Hermes apart and put back together again, and as a bonus, it may still work....
Cheers...
I dont beleive this BS i dropped my lovable phone on the floor and now my keyboard is being tempermental!!!! it sometimes works find but other times it dosn't GRRRR!!!! The keys that are effected are the F key the dot key the delete key and a few others help!!!!!!!!
Andi
Andi1985 said:
I dont beleive this BS i dropped my lovable phone on the floor and now my keyboard is being tempermental!!!! it sometimes works find but other times it dosn't GRRRR!!!! The keys that are effected are the F key the dot key the delete key and a few others help!!!!!!!!
Andi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With any luck it's just the keyboard connector that's a bit loose. It's just under the back cover so no major dismantling:
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Mike
Sorry.
How high was the fall?
I've dropped mine many times on all sorts of surfaces and still kickin... If you saw the condition of my 6 month old 8525 you'd shiver
No help to offer. :|
Do what mike says, mines taken many a tumble and i've had to set the keyboard connector and the front camera back in place twice now.
Just as the thread states....I DROPPED MY HERMES!!!!
Assessing the damage, part of my keyboard popped out slightly. It popped back into place, but while using the phone, if I close the sliding keyboard, my phone will freeze. Or in other words loss of power. If the keyboard is not closed all the way, I can use my phone. If I carefully close the keyboard, I sometimes can use the phone. A small bump will result in loss of power.
I believe I have a loose connection somewhere. I am going to take Mike's suggestion to look at the keyboard connection. Does anyone have any other ideas I should check?
Giving an update. I opened up my Hermes to find the battery connector has broken off. I did more searching on the forums about this very issue. Hopefully resoldering the connections will work. Understand that the board has many layers and a may have damaged the connection internally. Will have to see. Luckily, I have a friend who works on all sorts of digital components for installing and repair. Hopefully this is the ONLY problem and not just one of many!
WildnMN said:
Giving an update. I opened up my Hermes to find the battery connector has broken off. I did more searching on the forums about this very issue. Hopefully resoldering the connections will work. Understand that the board has many layers and a may have damaged the connection internally. Will have to see. Luckily, I have a friend who works on all sorts of digital components for installing and repair. Hopefully this is the ONLY problem and not just one of many!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funnily enough i did make a post suggesting a problem with the battery connector - but you may know the site was hacked and we lost some posts from Sunday.
Anyway, let's hope it has just broken the surface solder joints and all will be well.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Funnily enough i did make a post suggesting a problem with the battery connector - but you may know the site was hacked and we lost some posts from Sunday.
Anyway, let's hope it has just broken the surface solder joints and all will be well.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Mike,
I had thought there was a post on this. I tried searching for it with no luck. Regardless, my friend was able to solder the surface joints and I am back up and running!
WildnMN said:
Thanks Mike,
I had thought there was a post on this. I tried searching for it with no luck. Regardless, my friend was able to solder the surface joints and I am back up and running!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news, good result
Mike
Somebody probably already found this, but the mojo actually has a power and reset button under the hood
Sry for the dusty pic
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Nice. Could you please post more images of the opened device and maybe a description on how to open the MOJO without damaging anything?
Open the mojo
First of all, BE CAREFUL, I'm not taking responsibility if you crack something or drive a screwdriver through the motherboard, not that its likely but still
1. Disconnect everything from the device.
2. Orientate the device upside down and rotate it so the ports are away from you (easier to explain some of the steps)
3. Remove both rubber feet, the one next to the ports hides the four clasps in the picture below, the other one hides one screw that needs to be removed.
4. Grab something small, flat and a little wide (like a flat screwdriver)
One a time, press the clasps down and away from you.
At the same time grab the edge above the ports (the bottom plate) and bend it a LITTLE upwards so the clasps comes out a little easier.
4. When the four clasps are out of the sockets and the screw is removed from under the other rubber foot, you basically can open the whole thing like a clam.
Just be careful with the ports, especially the audio jack, it sits on a mini pcb inside and seemed a little fragile.
When you opened it so the ports are free, some force has to be applied. On the opposite side, inside the shell there are two more clasps that will resist.
I just kept opening it like a clam and the two pieces separated, everything intact.
5. Done!
I removed the motherboard from the bottom plate, the only things under there was the soldering points of the ports.
I also removed the heatsink, nothing exciting. (I dont recommend this because of the thermal compound between the cpu and heatsink)
The power and reset button
This was the most exciting thing I found, there was a button under the usb3 port, can figure out what it does though, if I hold it in under boot, the device wont boot.
PM me if you cant figure it out!
Why Mad Catz wouldn't put a power and reset button on the outside of the device is beyond me. I wish there was a way to power on and off from the controller...
But this is a nice find! I might have to mod an external switch, if that's an option...
Wow. Thank you for your explanation! :good:
Hey, Thanks...I heard about that before, but the Instructions and pics are great! I think I'll be tearing mine open this weekend & figure out how to expose those 2 buttons.
Seems one could drill a couple small holes in the case and put a couple small plastic pins as button extensions. Possibly the shafts from a couple of golf tees?
Does anyone know which button does what? and will the reset start it back up after being turned off with a software switch?
About the third button: will the MOJO not boot at all with it pressed, or does it boot into fastboot?
Hello all, I'm thinking to tear down mine and I might change the case for my Mojo. Not sure if I'll add a fan with a switch to toggle it on /off, and planning to expose those power buttons too. Has anyone done something similar? Maybe there are some 3d printer schemes somewhere on the net, I could not find any though. Thank you very much!
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
colks said:
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No as long as your sound is going through the HDMI.