Somebody probably already found this, but the mojo actually has a power and reset button under the hood
Sry for the dusty pic
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Nice. Could you please post more images of the opened device and maybe a description on how to open the MOJO without damaging anything?
Open the mojo
First of all, BE CAREFUL, I'm not taking responsibility if you crack something or drive a screwdriver through the motherboard, not that its likely but still
1. Disconnect everything from the device.
2. Orientate the device upside down and rotate it so the ports are away from you (easier to explain some of the steps)
3. Remove both rubber feet, the one next to the ports hides the four clasps in the picture below, the other one hides one screw that needs to be removed.
4. Grab something small, flat and a little wide (like a flat screwdriver)
One a time, press the clasps down and away from you.
At the same time grab the edge above the ports (the bottom plate) and bend it a LITTLE upwards so the clasps comes out a little easier.
4. When the four clasps are out of the sockets and the screw is removed from under the other rubber foot, you basically can open the whole thing like a clam.
Just be careful with the ports, especially the audio jack, it sits on a mini pcb inside and seemed a little fragile.
When you opened it so the ports are free, some force has to be applied. On the opposite side, inside the shell there are two more clasps that will resist.
I just kept opening it like a clam and the two pieces separated, everything intact.
5. Done!
I removed the motherboard from the bottom plate, the only things under there was the soldering points of the ports.
I also removed the heatsink, nothing exciting. (I dont recommend this because of the thermal compound between the cpu and heatsink)
The power and reset button
This was the most exciting thing I found, there was a button under the usb3 port, can figure out what it does though, if I hold it in under boot, the device wont boot.
PM me if you cant figure it out!
Why Mad Catz wouldn't put a power and reset button on the outside of the device is beyond me. I wish there was a way to power on and off from the controller...
But this is a nice find! I might have to mod an external switch, if that's an option...
Wow. Thank you for your explanation! :good:
Hey, Thanks...I heard about that before, but the Instructions and pics are great! I think I'll be tearing mine open this weekend & figure out how to expose those 2 buttons.
Seems one could drill a couple small holes in the case and put a couple small plastic pins as button extensions. Possibly the shafts from a couple of golf tees?
Does anyone know which button does what? and will the reset start it back up after being turned off with a software switch?
About the third button: will the MOJO not boot at all with it pressed, or does it boot into fastboot?
Hello all, I'm thinking to tear down mine and I might change the case for my Mojo. Not sure if I'll add a fan with a switch to toggle it on /off, and planning to expose those power buttons too. Has anyone done something similar? Maybe there are some 3d printer schemes somewhere on the net, I could not find any though. Thank you very much!
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
colks said:
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No as long as your sound is going through the HDMI.
Related
Hi,
Tried to change cover according to the pdf found in a thread earlier.
Got everything in place BUT the display is nothing but black...
I reallt dont think that the display is broken. My guess is that I did something wrong trying to put back the flexible wiring to the connector.
Can anyone help me fix this problem?
Dunno what specifically to be extra careful of when doing this.
Any other idea what might be wrong?!?
Pls, any thoughts are worthful to me! Just want my beautiful "new" black magician to work again...
/Emil
Same crap happened to me last night!
I painted the cover and expected to be done in about 30 minutes.
At the end 4,5 hours of taking apart en putting it back,
just because the screen stayed blank (sometimes white, mostly black)
Anyway, I figured the problem.. so here it goes..
When you look at the yellow flatcable you notice 2 ears sticking out...
This "ears" suppose to go as far as possible
to line up with the outside line of the green board.
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Yellow = flatcable
Green = board
Black = Slot (where you stick the flat cable in)
Red = imaginary line to line up the back of the "ear" with the board
So when you cannot push enough with your fingers,
take a small screwdriver and push the ears further in the slot.
Just be careful not to break the ear...
I suppose if it break it might take some connections in
the flatcable with it, thus a new screen is needed.
Thanks for your reply!
I checked and I rearranged the flatcable into different locations but no change in a better direction. Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Still need some help!
Any more tips or do I have to throw away my beloved magician...?
Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeb, know what you mean... Have experice the same.. your screen is definitly oke, not cracked, broke or whatever..
The flat cable is not in far enough or the connection is broken on one side, which means when you put it back together the flatcable slides out a bit. Mine is broken on one side and though I don't think that a broken small clip would mean replacing the whole thing, I did tape it tight to be sure it stays there.
So mate, try again... I dunno how I have to make clear what "push harder" means.. but it's harder than you would expect with this delicate stuff.
If I have to compare the pressure applied to get the flatcable in slot I would say it comes close to pushing an IDE connection into it's slot... it's really hard...
Maybe another guide-line... When you slide in the black middle piece it should NOT touch the flat cable. (well, almost not)
Anyway, let me know in which dumpster you gonna throw it, So i pick it up and sell it back to you
I see...
I pushed the cable in so far so that the "ears" you mentioned earlier touches the white plastic where the cable goes under. Meaning you can´t physically push it any more... Do you understand what I mean? In this position the display is black. It´s when I pull out the cable one or two mm that I get the white screen with stripe on it.
Maybe it´s the broken connection you´re talking about. Have to check if I can see anything of that. Not quite sure what you mean though.
Do you mean that where the cable is connected on the other side, that is where it could have come off?
How can I check if this is the case?
Guess I must have spent 15 hours minimum at this crap now...!!!
Help: "O" "P" "L" "Enter" Keys not working anymore.
After getting a white screen, I did the fix of placing a small plastic by the black square chip, and assembled again, not a problem with the white screen anymore.
But I just had another problem, after assembling the phone back again, some keys on the keyboard stopped working: "O" "P" "L" and "Enter", and the key on top of the "I", looks like a softkey, but the other one works fine.
All of the rest of the keys work fine, but those 5 keys don't.
I checked for any dirt or something obstructing the keyboard chip, and the rubber, but nothing seemed bad.
I alo tried putting 3 sheets of paper cut in the size of the chip, but that didn't help.
I do use the keyboard, does any1 have an idea of why this is happening?
Usually complete failure of certain keys is down to one of two causes
1.
The ribbon cable is damaged - (think it unlikely unless it was cut or severely bent)
2.
The ribbon cable connector is not seated properly or needs cleaning or is damaged:
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Worth re-seating that a few times just to be sure - and it only needs the back casing to be removed (maybe you've tried that already?)
Mike
Could be buildup of corrosion between the keys and the Keypad. Visit Mikes site in his sig at bottom of his post to find the illustrations and instructions on what to do but make sure you test Mikes suggestion first. Cleaning the keyboard contacts is a more intensive job then just reseating the connector...
Cheers...
Yeah I was going to try to remove the white sticker as he posted on some other threads, but trying to remove the sticker seems hard and scary.
But, it seems very strange, that this happened after fixing the white screen issue with the small piece of plasti card.
The card shouldn't affect it as the keyboard is in the bottom half of the Hermes and the screen is on the slideout section. The thing that could have been hurt is the ribbon cable that attaches onto the mainboard Or the connections at the back of the LCD.
So saying though, I have found strange effects from mainboard problems messing with the LCD (my flywheel pcb broke and caused no backlight on LCD). But I wouldn't htink it would work the other way as it would be the mainboard where problems would originate, not be the byproduct.
Cheers...
Yeah, the card should not be a problem as I thought.
I have another hermes, which had the white screen, but at the time, I did not know how to fix it. The problem is that, I had issues with mine because it did not charge or power up anymore, I think the problem was the use of different chargers not made for the Hermes.
But anyways, I'll try to switch the keyboard from the old one into this and see if the problem lies with the keyboard, or cable. I'll try this tomorrow, and let you know guys about this.
I always find its easier, if you have the parts, to replace... Its when you have no choice you have the hard time..
Cheers...
Wow.
I just tried changing the keyboard from the old device into this one, same problem with the same keys... Then i said, ok, it must be the cable, so switched cables, and the same issue still :|.
I just had reset the device and it's still not working.
This has to be something else..
Possibly motherboard... You could try replacing the other MB, that is if it still works, other wise the connector may need to be cleaned - both on the MB and on the ribbon.. Use only isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirits) and a cotton bud. Never use Metho as it leaves a residue.
If that doesn't work then it must be the MB as you've tried changing the keyboard and ribbon. Little else to cause the problem.
Personally I'd try the mainboard as its fairly easy and doesn't require that much more effort than what you've already done. Remember though that you will have ALL the old data on the other phone. Old OS, settings and contacts...
Cheers...
In the process of trying to fix my loose hinge I must have broken my volume button. There is a tiny grey piece of plastic that gets pushed in. In the photo the volume button on the right is the up volume and works fine but down button doesn't have the grey piece.
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Does anybody have any ideas? I would be ok with replacing that whole little yellow switch if I have to. I have a pretty fine soldering iron tip.
help please!
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
echizen said:
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of an online electronics shop that sells tact switches like this?
What do you mean by redoing with some plastic?
I have an old Palm Treo 650 that I'm going to tear apart and look for parts. I'm not at home right now but I found this picture and the buttons on the top left look very similar to the Desire Z ones.
Does anyone know if there are any electrical issues about the switch that I should consider before using a different one?
I was a cell tech for 5 years and replaces tons of volume and ptt switches. You can use a switch from any phone to replace it. Voltage doesn't matter on these and all seem to be the same size. You could probably buy a broken desire z or use one from any old phone. My old word of caution would be that some phones use ribbon (flex) wires that have a built-in switch that wouldn't be compatible for use. I know a ton of iden phones (older ones like i730/530/610) use the proper switches. Maybe a local sprint store might have some old water damged models that would be perfect. It would have to be a service center though. Good luck!
Oh and any non lead based solder will do but be sure you solder it down good. It make take a few tries and before to pull on the switch a little to make sure it was a secure burn...
Oh... lol! The treo switch will work fine as a replacement. Be sure to not burn off the the soldering pad on the board of your G2. And carefull with the removal of the treo's switch. They break easily...
Thanks so much sino8r!!!
I had an old samsung that uses the ribbon button you mention.
Now I just need to find my old Treo. I was letting my kids play with it and I thought it was sitting the the toy box. Now I have to rip apart my house looking for this thing. =)
Yeah I got non-lead based solder but I think I'll need to get a finer tip to my iron. I have the Hakko 936. Any tip recommendations?
Also, there looks to be 5 solder points on the Desire Z switch. Two on each side and on behind. The behind one isn't really shown in my picture. Do you know which solder points are the important ones and which ones are for strength?
I hope I can document my progress enough so that others with the same problem can fix their phones too!
sino8r, is this the phone you were talking about?
Why would you want to use lead free solder? Leaded solder has a lower melting point and flows much easier. I mean honestly, just use what you have on hand, but is there a reason why you would specify that he use lead free?
Did your tablet screen go out? Does the backlight still come on, but the screen shows nothing? Can you hook it up to a TV, and the picture comes out fine? If so, it is most likely a loose cable, and can quickly be fixed by you, without RMAing it and waiting weeks or months. While the guide should be spot on, and you aren't going to be harming the device in any way, I'm still not assuming any responsibility if you destroy your tablet. You will first need to take apart your transformer. There are plenty of guides out there, so once you get the back off, come back here!
hybridau said:
Hi stuntdouble,
Two torx screws have to come off first, these are part of what holds the bezel down.
After that you need to use a guitar pick from the back to lift the bezel up...best to get all 4 corners up and keep sliding..as soon as it wont slide lift it out and back in again a bit further on... it absolutely destroyed the pick by the way..lots of sharp edges in there.
The bezel will then come off from the front of the tablet. Just be careful and dont force it, Around the 40 pin connector was the biggest pain.
The back cover is held down by 4 screws on the top glass, and umm if I recall about 10 screws behind where the bezel . It basically then falls off once all screws are off with not to much effort.
There are also no security stickers over any of the screws anywhere inside the tablet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look at the bottom, you should see a strip with a bunch of multicolored wires coming from the battery. Underneath it, and near the bottom of the battery you should see a ribbon cable. Here's a picture, the display cable has a flashlight shining on it.
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Try pushing that into the slot a bit and see if that fixed it. If not try pushing on a few of the other cables, if this doesn't fix it, then I would suggest you RMA it, although I really think this will fix it for you. This has happened twice to me, and each time, pushing cables a bit seems to do the job.
Best of luck on fixing it and post your results please!
I've had my 32GB Nexus 7 2012 (grouper) since it was released. I love it, or well, I did. Until about 12 months ago, the WiFi reception and speed plummeted into what may as well be hell in the stone ages. I couldn't find the problem. I thought it was something to do with software, as I had recently upgraded to a newer version of Android at the time. So, I dismissed it, and waited patiently for a fix. Nothing. So, it has been sitting there since KitKat was released, doing nothing.
Until now that is! I decided that I didn't want to look at it doing nothing anymore, so I researched far past page 2 of Google (Desperate times people, desperate times...) and I found this gem!
I strongly recommend you DO NOT perform that guide. It can damage your device even more. Instead, please use the guide below:
YOU WILL NEED:
Small knife or Electronics opening tool
Soldering Iron (Sorry)
Solder
Basic soldering skills
[URL="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l5919/7?euid=f15f56b658ee4efebf0c8f34c466567e&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fpayments.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewPaymentStatus%26transId%3D472422032026%26itemId%3D390820734137%26qu%3D1%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AGB%3A5919&exe=11193&ext=27012&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext]Contact Fingers (As many that are broken on your device)[/URL]
Right, lets get started...
(Oh yeah, and to make sure you can't sue me if you mess up, I am not liable for any damage you cause to you or the device you're performing this guide on. This may also void the warranty on the device you are performing this guide on)
BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!
Turn off your device
Ensure that your device is unplugged from any power source
1) Open the Nexus 7 carefully.
2) Find the broken contact(s). The red circle in the picture below annotates where one of the WiFi contacts is broken.
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3) Put the replacement contact finger(s) in place
4) Solder the new contact(s) onto the motherboard ensuring that the solder is only touching that contact
It's important that the solder is only touching one piece of metal, as otherwise the circuit will be shorted and your device may be damaged.
If you have messed up the soldering, there are tools to remove the solder, or you can re-heat it and try to wipe/scrape it off. The tool you want heats up, and sucks up the solder off the circuit board.
5) Leave the device for at least five minutes
6) Once you have left the device, check to see if the angle of the new contact is the same as the other ones. If not, gently bend it into place.
7) Place the casing back onto the Nexus 7, and press to lock it into place
8) Boot up your device
And that's it, you're done!!!! If this guide helped you, press thanks, and if you're feeling generous, donate
JJE990
Broken Link
Hi,
The link you have provided is no longer valid, I just thought that I would see what I could find and this is one of them:
hypertext protocol:worldwidewebdotdigikeydotcom/en/product-highlightslashwslashwurth-electronicsslashwe-secf-emi-contact-fingers
I can not be sure which one to choose. I see one very similar to what my N7 has just not 100% certain that it would be correct one and or fit.
Regards,
T
how does this apply to NFC? my NFC is not working and i opened the case, saw one pin was bended (NFC section PIN), tried to put it back up and it broke. You think that by fixing the pin will it work again?
st-ivan said:
how does this apply to NFC? my NFC is not working and i opened the case, saw one pin was bended (NFC section PIN), tried to put it back up and it broke. You think that by fixing the pin will it work again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not? If that was the reason and you rectify it, it should work.