Database Users

dead USB bus, with PICS now! Someone can HELP?

I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.

sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF U WANT TO THROW...PLEASE GIVE IT TO ME...I WILL USE IT AS A SPARE...

i dont think he literally means he will throw it away, i am sure he will sell it as spares if he cant fix it. I have a exec for spares, if you want the mptherboard to replace the broken usb connector, or try finding the universal service manual and take the thing apart and see if you can repair it yourself

sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say it is worth to open to see how big is damage. if is clean cut then it is easy to solder another usb connector. In the Wiki suppose to be a technical documentation which will sure help you. good luck

Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard ) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.

Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard : )) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.

Hi,
Judging from your pictures, I think your friend is wrong.
If you are a able to solder and get a very fine tip for the soldering iron, you may actually fix it (unless there is something else wrong).
First of all, you need a new Mini-USB connector. This is easier said then done. One way would be to sacrifice a cheap mp3-player.
Then you solder the case of the Mini-USB connector to your PCB. Instead of trying to solder the 4 USB-pins to the PCB connectors, use a very fine cable (like the ones used for MOD-Chips on consoles) to solder each pin to the respective resistor (use a multimeter to make sure you use the right ones).
Finaly use some hotglue to fix the USB-connector to your PCB with increased resistance.
Good luck!
Cheers,
vma

i second vma's opinion. being a electrical technician first i wud say out loud, by the picture very clearly:
THE AV TECHNICIAN IS WRONG, YOU DONT NEED A MOTHERBOARD. IT DOESNT LOOK BROKEN. YOU NEED TO GET HOLD OF A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN WHO WILL DO AS YOU SUGGEST
*you first need to clean off all the lead and make the usb area all clean. this way you will be sure which electric platings have been tempered. so that you will be more sure which usb pin need to be connected via wires, to the resulting end of the damaged plating.
*you need to get hold a mini-usb port as suggested, you can buy a cheap mp3 player or whatever. there is lots mini-usb ports available around. i suggest first you try an electronic appliance shop.
*and replace it firmly with the help of glue specially formulated for circuit board. you can buy these stuff in an electrical shop
*make sure to test there is proper connection, if you have replaced the platings with the use of wires to connect to the mini-usb pins. test with a ammeter.
GOOD LUCK
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todays AV-technicians are just part exchange guys!!! I don't know where you from but anyhow this damage can be sure fix. I suggest If you never have done such job then dont try to repair by self( Universal still one of the best PDA's on the market to screw it up) Find a guy which has experience (even it cost you little money) and those guys also know where to get new USB connectors.

You can buy a new mini usb from here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110215701767
I got one the other day. Very fine soldering needed as mentioned above.

By god that's been butchered! I guess your tv engineer friend had a go at it... and by the looks of it did more bad than good. Ok here's what you need to do.
1: Get a new mini usb socket
2: clean up that whole area to get rid of all the solder spatter clean it by using a soldering iron / desolder tool on any shorts and a small flat blade screwdriver to "pick off" and solder spatter.
3:solder 5 small (by small I mean 0.5mm pvc insulated solid core) wires to the connector you bought in step 1 approx 2" long for each.
4: Solder the connector to the board by the 4 side lugs.
5: Solder each wire to it's correct test point (shown in the pictures but the gold coloured circle - you can clearly see which goes to where) you may have to scratch off the laquer on the PCB with a small flat blade screwriver first. Also don't forget to tin each testpoint and the end of each wire first... and for that matter the same goes for the connector end where you soldered the wires to.

am i right?

>>
Draw it out again cant understand it haha
Just got spares and repairs 02 xda exec with snapped off mini usb was thinking of doing myself but no has piccy's off what to do
Email me on
[email protected]

How to hack hardware binary and bend it to your will

Before you start on actually modifying your hardware, you must know what it is you're after. Don't just go using your finely tuned soldering iron without doing some research first... http://twitpic.com/75maxq
I wanted to share some tricks I use when locating UnBrickable Mod on various devices because it has been requested many times. Overall, the methods I'm going to talk about can be called "reverse engineering", "hacking", or "circuit bending".
Each device is different so different methods may be used. I'll start with what I feel is the best method to use and move my way on through less accurate and more destructive/difficult methods. The methods I'm using here can be used on nearly ANY device for nearly ANY purpose, not just locating boot modes. Using the techniques I'm laying out here, you can locate any physical memory register on any chip.
For the purposes of this familiarization guide, we will be locating the xOM5 resistor which changes the S5PC110 boot mode from "boot from OneNAND" to "Boot from USB, then OneNAND". Other modes are available such as booting from SDCard or MMC but these modes do not allow dual booting into the standard OneNAND boot so they are not practical unless you have a NAND failure.
By reading the S5PC110 processor manual, we can see on page 6-8, this is achieved by setting the xOM bits to 101001 (hex value 29). These binary values correspond to pins on the processor. These pins can be set high or low, and they ARE set high and low on the development board for the S5PC110 development boards. On other processors like OMAP4460, or Exynos, different pins are used but the functionality is the same.
All binaries and reading materials used are availabe in the GalaxyS hack pack: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1111866
For installation of binaries, you can use the market app "mount rw/ro" and drop the binaries in your /system/bin folder. See here for more information on direct access to Linux and installing binaries: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1030107
For the purposes of this thread we will be using a S5PC110 chip which is what the entire GalaxyS series of device is based upon.
With this knolwedge in hand, lets continue into HOW we can locate these pins.
how to locate the xOM resistor cluster
If you orient the S5PC110 processor with the PIN-0 dot at the lower left corner, you will find the xOM cluster at the lower right corner. These resistors will always be near this location because the pins on the board are near this location. It's never a good idea to have "runs" on a board longer than necessary. Therefore, these resistors will always be near this corner.
NOTE: You need not remove the processor. This is only for illustration.
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For other devices, see the pinouts on the processor manual.
Methods for locating modificaton
Monitoring memory locations in real-time
You will need:
viewmem installed in /system/bin
bash installed in /system/bin
Market App: QuickSSHD allows you to terminal into the device.
1. we locate the xOM registers on the device. According to the processor manual
OM_STAT 0xE010_E100 R OM status register 0x0000_0000
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the OM registers are at 0xE010E100. So we know where to look in memory to monitor changes.
2. ssh into your device. See QuickSSHD for more information. Once you are in, assume super-user, get into a bash terminal, and use the viewmem utility.
Code:
$ su
# bash
bash-4.1#viewmem 0xE010E100 0x4|hexdump
[INFO] Reading 4 bytes at 0xe010e100...
0000000 0009 0000
0000004
3. Short and test. While shorting the high value to the active side, NOT THE VISIBLY GROUNDED SIDE, monitor output from the terminal.
The PullUp resistors are 10Kohm and the Pulldown resistors are 100Kohm. This means there's 10x more force behind a digital high than a digital low, in other words, you can short any low value high without a problem...
Code:
viewmem 0xE010E100 0x4|hexdump
[INFO] Reading 4 bytes at 0xe010e100...
0000000 0029 0000
0000004
the 29 signifies that the device is modded properly. A value of 0x9 is a standard production device. When you see 0029, you've located the proper resistor for the modification.
Using overlays
Take a picture of the board, then use an annotated pinout to locate the proper pins on the processor. This allows for a visual of the device as though the processor were removed.
here's a picture of my own annotated overlay. Use this and we'll walk through overlay logic.
Now, with a xOM value of 0x9, that's a binary value of 001001, use your calculator in "programmer" or "scientiffic" mode if you don't believe me.
Broken Down:
xOM5=0
xOM4=0
xOM3=1
xOM2=0
xOM1=0
xOM0=1
xOM 3 and 1 are both high values, all the rest are low. We can use this to our advantage. We can see that 4 resistors are connected to ground on one side and 2 are not. Those two are obviously xOM3 and xOM1.
If we look at the processor pinout, we can see that if xOM3 and xOM1 resistors were swapped, one would be very much longer than the other so there's only one logical solution.
Moving on to the shortest ones, xOM4 and xOM2 would obviously be closest to the top of the resistor cluster, and it's also obvious wich one would be which.
Now that leaves two resistors in the middle. One is high and one is low. by drawing it out you can see that if xOM5 were on the right, then xOM1 would be very much longer than xOM5, so xOM5 must be on the left.
So, we've located all xOM values with this method.
Using relative positioning
This method is not nearly as scientiffic... Since there are now 10 guides made for modifying xOM5 on different boards, a resistor may be picked and chosen as though it were from anothe board. See here for various modifications: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1236273
Verification from this method may be made using UART. you would be expecting an output like this over the UART on your device.
See here for info on UART: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1235219
If the modification was sucessful, UART will output a line which states OM=0x29.
Using a multimeter
You can remove the processor from a device and trace out the pins manually. This method is only appropriate for a broken device.
conclusion
So, these are my methods for hacking hardware and making it do what I want. I'd like to hear others. Lets hack up some hardware and talk about it here.

+1
Good that every chip component is configureable on lowest level by set of external passive elements - opens big possibilities to change any hardware into something different.
Worth to add - always think twice, or even once more before short circuiting anything. If between some V line and another there is positive voltage, like +1V, it still doesn't mean that second one is GND. First one can be +2V and second one +1V. READ carefully all datasheets and documentation. Don't connect any power line straight to another without resistor - this will cause high current go through some component and probably damage it.
Example of bad test - there are some capacitors on the left of Adam's needle when testing resistor. It's highly possible that these capacitors are ARM_CORE stabilisers, which is 1.2V and can handle up to about 1.4V. Adam is operating with 1.8 or 2.8V from other V line - accidentally touching the capacitor with needle can damage CPU core.
If you never been doing any hardware mods but feels like you want to start - prepare for some victims in your electronic devices. That's all of my experiences for now.
//Damn me and my bad habit of reserving posts in Adam's thread. Sorry. :d

very informative

Excellent and authoritative article! Though I'm personally too scared to do anything like this on my phone!

I've gotten replies from people that removing a BGA chip is almost impossible. A tutorial on how to unsolder one would be helpful for aspiring hardware hackers.

Master Melab said:
I've gotten replies from people that removing a BGA chip is almost impossible. A tutorial on how to unsolder one would be helpful for aspiring hardware hackers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It IS almost impossible. It's rediculously difficult. You'll end up pulling a pad or two off the board. You must heat up the entire chip with a heat gun or a hot air station, then pull it off... Meaning you're heating up the entire chip to the point where the solder melts. It takes a multi-thousand dollar professional setup in order to make sure no damage is done. I use a digital temperature controlled heat gun. It works, but it's not accurate.

If you could replace the pads with a socket or something like that you'll be set to go.

we need to get you a better camera

elmanortega said:
we need to get you a better camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HAHHAHHAHHA. funny story about that...
You see, my 6 year old tried to do unbrickable mod on that today..
I no longer have a dedicated camera

I wish i could try it, but i am sure i wont be able to, lol

Thank you very much for this guide.
Could you also describe what tools (soldering iron etc) do you use?

I use a Radio Shack digital soldering iron. It's nothing special but it's temperature controlled and has a fine point.

I made some more overlays
here is Exynos4210
This is from OMAP 4460, but I'm pretty sure it applies to OMAP 4430 as well

verry intresting, soon i try

Seriously this guys work is awsome, learnt quite abit from your work, thank you very much!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

cdesai said:
I wish i could try it, but i am sure i wont be able to, lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here but why dont giveit a try... just encourage

AdamOutler said:
... It takes a multi-thousand dollar professional setup in order to make sure no damage is done. I use a digital temperature controlled heat gun. It works, but it's not accurate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry Adam, you have a great writeup, but this is really a BS statement!
-- You can easily unsolder a BGA chip with a $5 micro-blow-torch! You just have to make sure you shield the surrounding components from the excessive heat. Put a small piece of copper (a penny?) on top of the chip, then put a piece of low-temperature (lead-free) solder on top of the coin, so you can get an idea when you have enough heat. Continue 10-20 seconds. Very carefully try to jam a few sharp toothpicks under any space between chip and PCB. Never bend!
This technique is well known and well demonstrated on YouTube, ever since the HP/Nvidia scandal of video chips falling of the MOBO after dust blocking the fan intake with (purposely) under-dimensioned and faulty heat-sink design.
The problem is getting it back ON! Then you need to invest in a professional heat plate and re-balling grid.

excuse me mister, i have done it, n my tab turn back on, now i have another problem, the screen is black and the bottom light is on, could you help me?

^^ good idea! I've always used a high power and small heat gun. It works for 99% of the pads, but I always lose 1 or 2. I never intend to put them back on.
apram75 said:
excuse me mister, i have done it, n my tab turn back on, now i have another problem, the screen is black and the bottom light is on, could you help me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the wrong place to post that. And it does not really make sense that you did this in context.

Unsoldering a BGA is easy.
Doing it without causing unrecoverable damage is a different story. Same for resoldering it back on.
However it is getting easier nowadays - temp-controlled hot air rework stations have dropped drastically in price - http://www.amazon.com/Updated-Aoyue-Digital-Soldering-absorber/dp/B006FA481G/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
Also, reflowing a BGA without removing it (such as for Xbox360 RRoD fixes) is a LOT easier than remove-and-replace.
Also - my personal favorite deal in terms of soldering irons is http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Dig...ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331244730&sr=1-1 - The Aoyue 937 is amazing considering it is <$50.

[FIX] i9000 i9001 gps final fix

Before to procede, remember all electrial component can have fault so exist warranty. If you want, procede at your own risk loosing warranty
For this tutorial is raccomanded professional leadfree soldering iron
i solved my gps problem, it is hardware problem, so no settings, gpsaids and no other solution helped me.
Problem is caused by bad gnd conductivity between mainboard and antenna. It is conduced by:
1) CONDUCTIVE GUMMY (suggest me better name if you have ) This kind of rubber was used for old nokia 8210 for connect display to mainboard. It was the mayor fault for nokia 8210.
2) back cover gps antenna: When phone become hot, antenna go back and not good touch with motherboard. Then, when phone isn't hot, gps antenna remains with a kind of "hole"
First try software fix (it not helped me) then try my solution
Solution:
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
SOLUTION: ​
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here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna,
if it is not used, you can remove and solder where was rubber
Now gps signal is immediate for me
Best regards
Leeno

The first picture is before and the second afterwards?

i moved in this third post the other solution,
it is easyer then solution in first post but i not like it because is not clean
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
For solve it i just removed rubber and soldered antenna to gps gnd mainboard like the picture.
Attention: if you use unprotected wire like picture, make sure it touch only gnd, not other components or you can damage phone.
Gnd require hard conductivity so
DO NOT USE VERY THIN WIRE

Ping-Pong said:
you csn also use gps files extracted from nexuss gingerbread
i think those have not changed in GRK39F
but i will be checking that today
ics.samsung-updates.com/stockplusmod/GPS_GRK39C.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
software can't fix hardware issues,
your posted file will only update settings and north american server for gps
i fixed i9000 froyo with my fix

Looks interesting. Might give this a go thanks.
Sent from my Android shizzle!

Where do you find the "third antenna contact"? I guess there are three and I do not want to take the second ...

here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna

I thought that the other connection was for GPS

What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Besides yours there is also another post that does the same thing. Takes you to the first one http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1043034
So no need for another one.

Trak-X said:
What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
So no need for another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sorry, you're wrong.
THIS fix were not known at all! The thread you linked just refer to pull up the OTHER contact of the gps antenna, not the RUBBER ONE, which actually is the source of the problem.
So the next time please read carefully before suggesting someone a search.
This thread is VERY USEFUL! This man deserves all the praise and should be acknowledged of the REAL FINAL GPS FIX which turned my phone into what should have been since the first day!

I was skeptical to say the least.
but this time, I have to admit: this solution works INSANELY WELL.
I made my own modded version, though. I removed the third unused antenna contact, and placed it over the conductive rubbed. no soldering involved. pressure keeps the contact in position and enhances the connection between antenna and mobo, similar but more effective than the other older solutions.
btw, I also changed server from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net, just like in my old acer liquid which locks really instactly.
connecting now in seconds in my living room (!!!) with 7 to 9 satellites. awesome. never happened before.
you deserve a huge thanks.

I did it this morning. I removed the rubber and soldered a wire between the contacts. I never had such a signal on my i9000, the gps works perfectly.
Huge thanks from here too.

anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone

oracula whedka
wowww:good:

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures in first post are self explaining.
I did not bother soldering anything. Just removed the unused antenna with some tweezers and placed it on top of the existing conductive rubber (but reversed upside down, though, to keep it level), I used a tiny bit of duct tape to hold it in place and to be sure it does not touch any other contact on the mobo.
I cannot exclude to solder it or use some conductive glue in the future, anyway, it sounds safer.
I can confirm this is THE solution. I am really astonished.

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)

trut said:
I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)[/QUOT
gps.conf in /system/etc, you need a rooted phone the mod this file.
default server in sgs1 is "north-america.pool.ntp.org" which supposedly is not correct for european users. following suggestion here at xda, I changed the line to "europe.pool.ntp.org" months ago, and now after givig a look to gps.conf in the acer liquid to "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and live happily with that.
I do not think this is the point, anyway. My old acer liquid uses "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and locks sats in the blink of an eye, ditto for my wife's htc desire which has "pool.ntp.org". Any software related mod could be just placebo.
as far as I know (google search..), hot glue is not conductive. if so, you are not fixing anything. but I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I use hot glue just from side to fix connect in place and check with multimeter all good. In my gps.conf i change from "pool.ntp.org" to "europe.pool.ntp.org" voila first fix time 00:31 and also me not use any help like wifi or mobile data just clean gps. However this fix work...

Hmmm....
I will give it a try soon.
Thanks man!!!
Gesendet von meinem GT-I9000 mit Tapatalk 2

Newsmy Carpad 4

Just a place holder for now. I rec'd my test/sample unit today. I took it out of the box just long enough to snap a photo or 2 to send to a friend. Nothing detailed worth posting here yet. I'll try to take better photos this evening, and might even try to get wired into the truck.
Of note: It looks just like the NU/NR3001. Same screen size, same buttons. It also came with a dash cam with a dedicated harness/plug. I haven't investigated the underlying connection type (USB, Composite, etc).
Will post more details and clean up this OP as I do.

Thanks two-head/three-arms. Looking forward to it!

First look. I have a few software/language issues to solve before I put this in my truck, but here's a quick runthrough:

I can't watch properly at work but those Bonovo apps look very familiar.

Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey. It is not clear, and where a slot for a SIM card. Look on their website in China http://www.newsmy-car.com/product/showproduct.php?lang=cn&id=75

Thanks for posting. I am wondering if they packaged the main board in an NR housing as the new one is not yet ready, and this is a sample. Just a guess as the one on the web page looks a little different and it definitely needs a slot for a sim card. Seems like they made very little change to the MCU portion if the same code runs on it; stating that based on version number. Dash camera specific slot is of course new but all other cables are identical to the ones I received with my NR. If you get a chance please test USB behavior on shutdown. Thanks!

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a post just now about the Joying x86 Sofia units getting 21901, so that score seems pretty damn good.

Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely looks hacked together. The main board is much smaller than the NR one. I think they would take advantage by packaging in a smaller chassis. No heatsink on the one you have; the NR one is not adequate as is if you run all four channels at moderate to high volumes.
Does it really only have 1 GB RAM, as listed on the webpage?
Be careful with the USB you order. Several people have had issues with cables longer than 3ft. You should have gotten a second USB cable with it and too bad they did not give you the 5.1 cable (sticker shows it has the output).

hello, I am also curious. the Carpad 4 has really only 1 GB of RAM and 16 GB of internal space ?? For me to have 1 GB would be a total regression.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I saw is a failure . The device really is not ready at all. And what they want from you? What is the test? Here it is necessary to refine the mind is still lots and lots. 1GB of RAM is not serious at all. My NU 1GB of memory and I want to buy a new unit with 2GB of RAM, 1GB is not too much and not enough.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you think the SOC is? I think it must be on the same board as the sim (underneath the MCU board or on the underside) as the SOC they are using has built in 4g/Bluetooth/wifi and all the antennae are all originating off that board. I am guessing that black overhang off the back are the external 4g antennae?

This is my Carpad 4 . It has simcard slot in the unit. We need to open cover to insert simcard - this is so fun! And we have somethings more:
1- This unit haven't Chplay to install app from market; may be in final version they will update this. I have only head unit for tester
2 - xposed additions (one of the most interesting module for exposed framework on our car) will not work at all. So we can't use this exposed addition module to do something as carpad 3. We will ask Newsmy do keyeditor can function as addition xposed.
3 - Ram 1Gb - this is downgrade product from carpad 3
The good new is Camera has got verry good quantily (HD camera 720p or 1080P)
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I have this unit in my hand, so if someone needs more pictures , I will take

The 1GB seems to be the only real downside so far. But, that may or may not affect real world performance. I'm still trying to sort out a few things before I put it in the truck full time. Then I can see if the RAM degrades performance.
The camera additions are pretty neat, and I'm waiting to see how this 'New Yan' remote app works (I can't get logged in).
I cut their rear camera harness and tried to wire in my existing OEM rear cam (I REALLY don't want to run their camera to the back of my truck!), but that didn't work on my initial test. The front/DVR cam is pretty neat. I was able to sideload Waze, and will make another stab at sideloading Google Play services this weekend.
I'll take some more pics/videos when done.
I know some are dismissing this device due to the 1GB, but I'd suggest holding off on judgement. What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm hoping. I still think the NR is a pretty great device with xdAuto on it (with the stock ROM I could never get it to stop reporting "Main activity has stopped".
Unrelated I am curious about the relationship between Bonovo and Newsmy. Is Bonovo a supplier to Newsmy. The MCU board on the 4 actually says Bonovo, not Newsmy!

Another test video:
I also came up with a really crazy idea. I was working on a friends NR5002 getting ready for his install next week. Realize that all the Nu/NR and Carpad4 chassis and screens, etc. should be interchangeable. I have an NU5002 with no android box to power it... and of course I prefer the 8" screen to the 7" universal so ......
Tearing them all down now.... Could be able to make a Carpad4 version of my NU5002

Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, it is possible that it will come in handy.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=60056637&postcount=3864

Very interesting, I too have a NU5002 and would love an 8" version. Is it still mostly empty with circuit boards on the bottom? This would help me as I need to modify the case and maybe remove the screen from the rest to make it fit in my car.
Software wise, is it lollipop with a kit kat base like I've seen other manufacturers do?
Syncing text from phone to head unit seems like a neat feature. Any idea of back porting it to previous units? Honestly that should already be implemented in Android natively.

Interference Reverse Camera Celerio

Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.

DexterMorganNL said:
Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.

Jack Sparoh said:
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried that yesterday evening, didn't change anything. My other thought is that perhaps I should put some tape around the RCA plug that goes into the headunit? But I can't reach it, without taking the system out.
I read that on Reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/9orlvu
I already ordered a Rectifier Relay Device as well, will take some while before it's going be delivered. That will be my last solution I guess.

I finally received the Rectifier Relay Device, it took some time with the slow shipping from AlliExpress. But I just installed it between the reverse camera and the power source, the reverse light.
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It a very small part, but I'm hoping this did the trick. Because I haven't tested yet, but if this doesn't work? Than I'm kinda out of options. So next time when I'm going take a drive, I will see if it did the job or not.
Well it works with the ignition switch on, so now I just have to wait until I go for a drive. As the interference only was there, while the engine is running. But I atleast already wanted to know if the reverse camera was still working, after putting this Car Camera Filter between it.

Well it didn't work at all, the interference is still there and perhaps even worse than before. I'm getting a bit frustrated by all of this, because I already tried so much.
Only thing which I haven't tried, is wiring the ground cable directly to the ground or the reverse light. Just I don't know which connection inside the plug, is the ground? That's why I had the ground connected to the car directly.
I also have seen a YouTube video, in where the ground cable was actually causing this interference.

The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well

leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like a good idea this dc to dc step down converter, as they are relatively cheap on AliExpress. So it's worth a try.

The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.

Pavel-71 said:
The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.
View attachment 5711505
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't I need to run a very long DC cable from that connection than to reverse camera? Which is near to impossible, as those cables aren't long enough. Now the trigger wire from the RCA cable is connected to the reverse light, where it sends the trigger to the headunit.
And it sends the trigger by this wire, to the headunit. Because at the headunit the trigger wire is connected at the other end as well, to the A5 pin.
Anyway it could be high frequency noise being picked up: I talked with a fellow Dutch Suzuki Celerio owner, and he said it would most likely be high frequency noise. In order to solve that, you need to put a ferrite core ring around that cable.
So I ordered two of those as well, and going put one closely to the RCA connector at the headunit. I should be able to reach that cable, without the need to take a the headunit.
And I think the DC to DC step down converter, might actually not make a difference: because if I'm not mistaken, this anti-interference filter which I have sitting between there now. Would also convert the voltage down to 12v and the interference is still there, it even got worse as the image looks wrapped.
Before that it was just some black artifacts appearing in the image, but now the image even freezes sometimes for a verg short time. It's like milliseconds, but I could still see it happening. So that filter needs to be removed, as it makes things worse.
But it's a pain in the ass and if these Ferrite rings or the DC to DC step down converter doesn't work, than I'm just going live with this interference. It didn't effect the ability of using the reverse camera the whole time, just a bit annoyed to OCD autistic brain which is malfunctioning. Others might already have stopped trying to solve it, but I still continue.
But if you would power it directly from the headunit: I'm correct than, that I would need to run the power cable all the way to the headunit? And wiring the trigger wire at that point, together the AC power cable?
Just the way I have done at the reverse, but you would still need the trigger from that reverse light. Else it won't work.

A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.

Pavel-71 said:
A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.View attachment 5711613
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
So I would guess the trigger wire needs to be connected both at the reverse light, and the headunit: where you would than have to run another long cable. And I believe the power cable might not be long enough.
And then at the headunit, you need to join the trigger wire and cable of the DC together and connect them to A5 Reverse Detecting wire. Which I thought is only meant to give the headunit the signal, that reverse camera is powered on. I didn't know it can power the reverse camera as well.
Anyway this I might consider the very very very last option, because it's a pain in the ass to again run a all the way to the truck. That was one of the most difficult things, of the installation of the reverse camera.
Placing a Ferrite ring, is actually way easier: so I hope that would help.

Yes, I have a Canbus adapter, it didn't occur to me that you don't have one, that will probably be the problem. In that case, wiring to the reverse light is necessary.

The reverse detecting line is only a trigger for the headunit to when the reverse gear is selected. There is another cable for reverse camera power.

DexterMorganNL said:
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car doesn't have canbus but the reverse trigger line. I use the reverse signal to power the camera like suggested by @Pavel-71
Some camera vendors and vendors of step-down converters suggest to use REVERSE as power source. Another approach could be to use B+ and trigger via a relay via reverse.

Ferrite Beads didn't change a thing.... interference is still there. I only haven't tried the DC to DC step down converter, but I'm getting very tired to try to solve this interference.
I figured out how to setup this DC to DC step down converter: with this one, you can't set the input voltage. So in order to setup the output voltage, I used an old notebook charger that is labeled to output 19v.
So with this little screw, you need to turn it. One time around is about 1v, but I wanted to be sure. But now it's setup at 12v and if I would install it, between the reverse light and reverse camera power connection.
Than when the engine is running, it would be converted down from whichever voltage it's having. Down to 12v. Not sure when I'm going try it out, but atleast I already setup the step down converter.

leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone finding this topic after searching on Google: the DC to DC step down converter, didn't work and made things worse.
Only thing that surprised me, the built-in voltmeter was measuring just 10.5v and not 12v. But this can't be correct..... I guess it might be off a bit. Anyway I'm out of options and going keep it the way it is.
I will take the interference for granted: still don't know if the RCA cable is picking something up, or its indeed because of the fluctuating voltage that the reverse light gives.

With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?

leo06 said:
With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the output was set to 12v: you adjust it with this screw. I did that with a 19v notebook adapter, because this step down converter won't let you put in a higher voltage than the input source.
The 10.5v was without engine running: I tried to film with my phone, what the voltage would be when the engine runs. But the vibrations made this little Mainboard fall down.
Only thing I was still able to capture: when it fell, the input voltage was showing just below 9v so that doesn't make sense either. Because it should normally be higher when the engine is running.

What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?

leo06 said:
What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suzuki Celerio 2015 build year: it's a normal bulb inside. No I don't have a multimeter, almost ordered a cheap one from AlliExpress. But feel like that I already been wasting some money on trying to solve this.