Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.
DexterMorganNL said:
Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.
Jack Sparoh said:
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried that yesterday evening, didn't change anything. My other thought is that perhaps I should put some tape around the RCA plug that goes into the headunit? But I can't reach it, without taking the system out.
I read that on Reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/9orlvu
I already ordered a Rectifier Relay Device as well, will take some while before it's going be delivered. That will be my last solution I guess.
I finally received the Rectifier Relay Device, it took some time with the slow shipping from AlliExpress. But I just installed it between the reverse camera and the power source, the reverse light.
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It a very small part, but I'm hoping this did the trick. Because I haven't tested yet, but if this doesn't work? Than I'm kinda out of options. So next time when I'm going take a drive, I will see if it did the job or not.
Well it works with the ignition switch on, so now I just have to wait until I go for a drive. As the interference only was there, while the engine is running. But I atleast already wanted to know if the reverse camera was still working, after putting this Car Camera Filter between it.
Well it didn't work at all, the interference is still there and perhaps even worse than before. I'm getting a bit frustrated by all of this, because I already tried so much.
Only thing which I haven't tried, is wiring the ground cable directly to the ground or the reverse light. Just I don't know which connection inside the plug, is the ground? That's why I had the ground connected to the car directly.
I also have seen a YouTube video, in where the ground cable was actually causing this interference.
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like a good idea this dc to dc step down converter, as they are relatively cheap on AliExpress. So it's worth a try.
The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.
Pavel-71 said:
The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.
View attachment 5711505
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Click to collapse
Wouldn't I need to run a very long DC cable from that connection than to reverse camera? Which is near to impossible, as those cables aren't long enough. Now the trigger wire from the RCA cable is connected to the reverse light, where it sends the trigger to the headunit.
And it sends the trigger by this wire, to the headunit. Because at the headunit the trigger wire is connected at the other end as well, to the A5 pin.
Anyway it could be high frequency noise being picked up: I talked with a fellow Dutch Suzuki Celerio owner, and he said it would most likely be high frequency noise. In order to solve that, you need to put a ferrite core ring around that cable.
So I ordered two of those as well, and going put one closely to the RCA connector at the headunit. I should be able to reach that cable, without the need to take a the headunit.
And I think the DC to DC step down converter, might actually not make a difference: because if I'm not mistaken, this anti-interference filter which I have sitting between there now. Would also convert the voltage down to 12v and the interference is still there, it even got worse as the image looks wrapped.
Before that it was just some black artifacts appearing in the image, but now the image even freezes sometimes for a verg short time. It's like milliseconds, but I could still see it happening. So that filter needs to be removed, as it makes things worse.
But it's a pain in the ass and if these Ferrite rings or the DC to DC step down converter doesn't work, than I'm just going live with this interference. It didn't effect the ability of using the reverse camera the whole time, just a bit annoyed to OCD autistic brain which is malfunctioning. Others might already have stopped trying to solve it, but I still continue.
But if you would power it directly from the headunit: I'm correct than, that I would need to run the power cable all the way to the headunit? And wiring the trigger wire at that point, together the AC power cable?
Just the way I have done at the reverse, but you would still need the trigger from that reverse light. Else it won't work.
A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.
Pavel-71 said:
A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.View attachment 5711613
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You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
So I would guess the trigger wire needs to be connected both at the reverse light, and the headunit: where you would than have to run another long cable. And I believe the power cable might not be long enough.
And then at the headunit, you need to join the trigger wire and cable of the DC together and connect them to A5 Reverse Detecting wire. Which I thought is only meant to give the headunit the signal, that reverse camera is powered on. I didn't know it can power the reverse camera as well.
Anyway this I might consider the very very very last option, because it's a pain in the ass to again run a all the way to the truck. That was one of the most difficult things, of the installation of the reverse camera.
Placing a Ferrite ring, is actually way easier: so I hope that would help.
Yes, I have a Canbus adapter, it didn't occur to me that you don't have one, that will probably be the problem. In that case, wiring to the reverse light is necessary.
The reverse detecting line is only a trigger for the headunit to when the reverse gear is selected. There is another cable for reverse camera power.
DexterMorganNL said:
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
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Click to collapse
My car doesn't have canbus but the reverse trigger line. I use the reverse signal to power the camera like suggested by @Pavel-71
Some camera vendors and vendors of step-down converters suggest to use REVERSE as power source. Another approach could be to use B+ and trigger via a relay via reverse.
Ferrite Beads didn't change a thing.... interference is still there. I only haven't tried the DC to DC step down converter, but I'm getting very tired to try to solve this interference.
I figured out how to setup this DC to DC step down converter: with this one, you can't set the input voltage. So in order to setup the output voltage, I used an old notebook charger that is labeled to output 19v.
So with this little screw, you need to turn it. One time around is about 1v, but I wanted to be sure. But now it's setup at 12v and if I would install it, between the reverse light and reverse camera power connection.
Than when the engine is running, it would be converted down from whichever voltage it's having. Down to 12v. Not sure when I'm going try it out, but atleast I already setup the step down converter.
leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone finding this topic after searching on Google: the DC to DC step down converter, didn't work and made things worse.
Only thing that surprised me, the built-in voltmeter was measuring just 10.5v and not 12v. But this can't be correct..... I guess it might be off a bit. Anyway I'm out of options and going keep it the way it is.
I will take the interference for granted: still don't know if the RCA cable is picking something up, or its indeed because of the fluctuating voltage that the reverse light gives.
With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?
leo06 said:
With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?
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Click to collapse
Yes the output was set to 12v: you adjust it with this screw. I did that with a 19v notebook adapter, because this step down converter won't let you put in a higher voltage than the input source.
The 10.5v was without engine running: I tried to film with my phone, what the voltage would be when the engine runs. But the vibrations made this little Mainboard fall down.
Only thing I was still able to capture: when it fell, the input voltage was showing just below 9v so that doesn't make sense either. Because it should normally be higher when the engine is running.
What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
leo06 said:
What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suzuki Celerio 2015 build year: it's a normal bulb inside. No I don't have a multimeter, almost ordered a cheap one from AlliExpress. But feel like that I already been wasting some money on trying to solve this.
Related
I'm looking to replaced my Nook Color in my car with a Nexus 7 in the coming weeks. Can be seen here One of the things that I wanted to do was a back up camera.
My intentions were to originally do either a BT or WiFi camera but I realized that it would be ridiculous for me to sit in reverse for 10+ seconds while my tablet pairs/connects with the tablet. This leaves me with the only one other option which is to use the front facing camera. I am considering extending the cable by about 9 feet. I have no idea if this will even work because of the length needed.
I think the way I want to do it is by using hot air to remove the connector for the camera from the board, then solder thin wire to each contact. Then in the back of my car, above the license plate, I would have a backup camera housing which would house the front facing camera and some sort of FPC/FFC board allowing me to install the connector I removed from the main board earlier. I would then plug in the front facing camera to the board with the installed connector.
My biggest question at this point is.... Do you think the range is too long for something like this? I drive a fairly small car so it won't be as long as say an RV or something. Here's some of the parts. I was able to find the part number for the connector by using the M370T diagrams floating around the forums.
Board Connector
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Camera Side Connector
Below is the kind of board that I would like to find to put into the backup camera housing. The pitch is right but the width is off. I'd have to hunt a little more but I think I can find something that would work.
http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=2200081
Kind of what I'm thinking..
Let me know what you guys think. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
As long as you get good solder connections and make sure its weather proof it should wirk. Maybe wrap it in some shielding to cut down on electrical interferance from the car. The only worry is the resistance from that length wire may be too much and not work. I'm not sure how sensetive it is to resistance changes. I would say try it, but make sure it works with that length wire before doing a full install. Cool idea.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda app-developers app
Hi. I'm sorry to say that you would be wasting your time trying to extend that cable. The signals from the camera module are low-voltage high speed link running at 25+ MHz. There is no line drivers in the camera module, nor the Nexus mainboard, so they won't be able to drive the cable capacitance, rendering you with a camera that won't work.
IF you had the right circuitry, you could maybe extend the camera half a metre, without extra circuitry, i would guess 10 Centimeters maximum.
I have my HU mounted under my drivers seat along with one of my Amp's and i have extended the Front panel connection so it's up above the rearview mirror. Had the same problem, not able to drive the cable. Added some line drivers and it worked, but only because the signalling speed were below 500 KHz.
// Per.
You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Omyn said:
You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think parts you selected are ok. But as zapro said - the problem is in transmitting high frequency signals on such long range so it creates much more complex problem.
You could probably use circuits called "Buffers" to drive voltage level in cable to higher (in your phone its 1.8~3V), like 10~20V. Near the camera there would be also buffers to drive it back to the source level. Also you need pinout of camera connector to generate camera power lines (voltages and ground) in your trunk.
You'd have to calculate max frequency of camera's clock signal (inspecting kernel driver should provide enough info) and get buffers of high enough quality. For normal circuits like this http://www.linuxfocus.org/common/src/article251/TL071.pdf (op-amp is a magical device with hundreds of uses, that also can serve as a buffer) usual maximum working frequency is less than 1MHz. You would need something that's working good up to 25MHz or so (like zapro said).
Everything is doable, it's always matter of motivation and time.
I dunno. At those speeds the wires have to be exactly the same length. I don't think it would work.
You'd be better off setting up a raspi, a touchscreen, a mobile phone and your tablet up to use mirrorop sender and have the raspi change its receiver settings when you put the car in reverse. Put a phone on your license plate or behind the bumper so it can display rear view as a mirror view sender.
I've never played with mirrorview, so I don't know much more than the general outline.
fadownjoo said:
Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
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Click to collapse
This is the route that I must go. My concerns initially were the ability to charge while using the device in USB host mode but that seems to be possible now.
My only concern now would be to find some way to have the tablet switch on the usb camera when the reverse lights are on and mirror the source. I'm thinking something like this might be possible with a IOIO board as an interface. I just don't know what would be the best way to set this up. Maybe something along the lines of a simulated media button from the IOIO when it detects the 12 volts. Then I would have a program like tasker trigger the webcam to open when it detects the media button press.
I would also like a way for when the tablet detects the battery is under 75% then flip a relay to pull the charge straight from the battery as opposed to the cigarette lighter adapter. That way if the car sits, the tablet will never drain to low battery.
I appreciate everyone's input so far.
I don't think the nexus camera is good enough and the angle is wide enough... Camera normally come with 160 degree view which let you see your whole bumper...
Accidentally sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
Been hoping for a solution to this also
I've toyed with the idea of installing a Samsung Galaxy Tab Tablet 2 7.0 in my Nissan Maxima where I already have a rear view camera installed in the trunk key-hole. It's pretty slick, but the screen in the dash ONLY shows the camera image- no other functionality (the radio is in the single-din space below the double din space where my 7" screen is). I'd like to swap it out for a tab with tons more features and still retain use of the camera. Every way I try to make this work leads me to a dead end And this forum is about the only one I've seen online for similar interest.
My original thought was finding the video input lead from the rear view camera, matching the frequency from my existing cam and just piping the signal in directly to that lead, leaving all other circuitry intact. But after reading here, i'm thinking converting a standard NTSC signal to the galaxy rear cam input is not an easy task.
Has anyone found any documentation out there for specs on that camera, frequencies, pin-outs, etc??
Cheers,
Q
I also want to extend front camera ( or rear camera) of my mobile xeomi mi4i without any distortion in quality of video/pic. Even half meter extension will be sufficient. I am ready to drill hole in back cover of Mobile if required. I want to know from where i can get connector cable etc for the same. I guess there won't be any distortion for half meter extension and no external amplifier/ buffer required. Thanks in advance.
QUOTE=Omyn;33894241]You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app[/QUOTE]
Hey everyone. I have been working on an in-dash Nexus 7 install in my 2010 Jetta Wolfsburg, and I thought I would share my progress as I go in case any one else was considering this for their car. I did a similar install with the original Samsung Galaxy Tab in my 1998 BMW 540i which can be seen on bimmerforums if you're interested. Just search E39 Android Tablet Install.
The first think I did was to buy a double din kit from Metra for about $12 from ebay. I took a Dremel to this and modified it by cutting off the center piece as well as all 4 clips on the corners. Then I got some Plastic Weld made by JB weld from Home Depot and started to shape the bezel like I wanted it to be for the Nexus 7. To get this to be flat and mate with the tablet nicely, I had to take a nail file and sandpaper and fill/sand/fill/sand etc until I got it to be as flat as I could. This is what it looked like at first:
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I then added more to the bottom molding to give the tablet some support from the sides as well. I think this will help in keeping it stable. These are depicted by the yellow arrows. The filing/sanding I was talking about was referring to the red lines in the pictures. I am trying to get these surfaces to be as flat as possible so that the tablet will mate closely with the bezel.
I plasti-dipped the bezel, which FYI matches remarkably well with the interior plastic. Then I attached elastic bands traversing each other diagonally to hold the tablet to the bezel. In addition, I attached magnets around the bezel, which can be seen as the black circles around the edge. I will explain why I did this in more detail as I continue with the install. I also started messing around with the tablet to make it how I would want it in the car. I am using the 2013 Nexus 7 running Paranoid Android so that I can customize every app individually. I put the buttons on the side and made them red to match the interior. One thing that I am happy about is that the way that I chopped up the bezel, I left the camera, light sensor, and notification light open to be used. This way I could even do video calls (granted I will be looking at the road) which might be pretty cool. Here are some more pictures:
I then removed the stock headunit.
This gave me more room to work. I bought a CR2-VW2 harness by PAC from one of the VW forum members. This harness allowed me to connect an aftermarket headunit and retain the stock audio system (amp, speakers etc) but did not include steering wheel controls, which I did not need anyway. I chose the Alpine UTE-42BT for a few reasons. First, it is only $88 which is very reasonable. Secondly, it doesn't have a CD player which is good since that feature would never be used anyway. It has a front auxiliary port and bluetooth handsfree built in, which will allow me to use handsfree from the tablet. I will explain the intricacies of this in a more detailed write up when the project is completely done. As of right now, this is how it is looking:
Pardon the mess, the project is ongoing =) As of right now, the tablet is running on battery, but I am planning on setting it up so that it receives power when the car starts, thus turning on the screen, and when the power shuts off, the screen timeout of 7 seconds will kick in. I'm realizing that 16GB is not a lot of space for something I want to keep music on, so I recently bought a USB OTG cable to mount external storage and I'm waiting for that to arrive. Does anyone have experience with using USB OTG that could provide some insight into this? Will Google Music pick up on the media on the USB storage and add it automatically if I use Stickmount or something like that? I'm going to see how that works out before I decide I need to buy a 32GB Nexus 7 instead. To charge it (if USB OTG works, meaning that the micro USB port will be taken), I will get a wireless charger and plug that into the cigarette lighter for power. If USB OTG doesn't work, I will power it directly using micro USB. One thing I would recommend to anyone trying this is to pick up a ground loop isolator, since charger and using auxiliary at one can lead to some interference. There should be more to come over the next week as I get some more of these peripheral supplies. It sounds great though, and the functionality is far superior to the stock headunit.
Very amazing. I've a plan to put a tablet of some sort in one of my cars! you beat me to it long ago seems like! I wanted to connect my rasberry pi to some sort of 7inch touchscreen!
but this is wayyy nicer.
PROPS!
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Kookas said:
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend just got the statham harcut
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, leave me alone! Unless you're here to answer my USB OTG questions. Otherwise, back to leaving me alone Olley.
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PMentior said:
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
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Click to collapse
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
faruqster said:
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you somehow use Bluetooth instead of OTG?
Options!
I made a steering wheel interface for Androids, n7 primarily.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2206156
For one, I can tell you that you can Charge and use USB OTG if you install the right kernel.
read here too
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2113259
I haven't tried the pogo pins and USB OTG together, that might work. Otherwise there are a few options.
(to be clear, the best option would be a kernel that allows USB OTG and charging, at the same time. )
:good: First, probably best, Buy an adjustable regulator like this : http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/adjustable-dcdc-power-converter-125v-35v3a-p-1534.html and adjust it to 3.9Volts (lipo used in tablet works between 3.7v and 4.2v) , use the always on BATT 12v input. Then remove the back cover of the N7, remove the battery, and power it directly from the car. http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+Teardown/9623/1 It looks like the black, yellow and red wires would be Ground, Vcharge and Vout, but you'd need to verify. You'd probably have to cut the wire. You might want to order a replacement on Ebay to use. You can then use tap to wake to turn the screen on or a USB micro setup like the one I made to tell the tablet to turn on/off with the key (act as if a keyboard was plugged in and you hit the power key).
Second, and most tricky. USB OTG uses pin 5 as the sense pin for Host/Client. IF you don't intend to use Host mode all of the time, like just when pressing a steering wheel button, you could use a Microcontroller to trigger the mode.
Third, Would be to charge when the car is off, and USB host when the car is on. Again this comes down to using pin5, or if you follow Kuchar09's post he has a wire diagram for this.
---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------
Sorry, I just realized yours is a 2013 version. Same deal, not sure about the kernel, but someone will make one. Also not sure about the touch control, it needs kernel modules to work, so again compatible kernel.
BUT my first option, still the best work around.
Here is the tear down http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+2nd+Generation+Teardown/16072/1 and you can see the battery still uses wires. you'll need to test what they are. Powering the tablet with a regulator in place of the battery would be ideal.
...
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
As far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Oh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coronado is dead said:
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How exactly do these wifi hard drives work? Can I connect to a wifi hotspot while using one of these? How exactly is the storage mounted? Do you have to use a file explorer to access the files, or will Google Music be able to find the media automatically? ie media scanner
rkennison said:
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice. Yeah, that's the plan with the magnets I built into the bezel. I am going to put some metal/magnets in the cavity where the tablet will go and I'll use those to put the tablet/bezel combination in and out.
rkennison said:
IAs far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about rolling on battery alone, but I thought it would be nice to run it from a charger. I'm realizing that there physically isn't room to use the micro USB port, so I think I will use a wireless charger. I figured I would use Tasker to turn the timeout off, turn on the wifi and bluetooth, and other stuff like that with power, and reverse it when the power drops out. I am planning to use the auxiliary output for now.
rkennison said:
IOh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is definitely something to think about. Are there any brands you would recommend or have experience with?
You could also mount a 120mm fan behind it for when it's hot. Heck, I bet the fan could run while the car is off and draw next to nothing from the battery. You would only need to run the fan at a few hundred rpm as well.
Fiio makes some pretty good ones without breaking the wallet. You can bypass the charging issues by just going headphone jack into the DAC, then into your headunit via an aux port (3.5 or RCA, they make DACs for each). You can go with a USB DAC as well, but I think there are driver requirements and crap to deal with on top of the power issues when hooking up via the N7s usb port. Just sounds messy so I've not tried it that way.
I pulled the HU from my son's completely and go from DAC right into the amp ( well into a crossover first so I can pull the sub frequencies into a separate amp as well ).
I kept my HU in. I just like having the 2 7" screens on the dash so I can still have full nav on the HU and music on the N7.
Oh and I just checked, the spigen ultra crystal screen protectors will cure the landscape sunglass issue. I'm sure others will as well, but I can verify these.
The hdd's create a hotspot the tablet would connect to. I don't know how the tablet would react as far as scanning media. You could soft link the files from the hard drive to the tablet if it doesn't just recognize cans play them. The Seagate is dlna compatible so it should be easy to play from.
A small fan would be easy enought to cool the tablet, you could even have a temp sensor on it, think attic fan, that would just come on automatically. Also of you follow my suggestion and remove the battery, and power it right from the car, the back cover would be off so cooling would be easier.
I run my system phone to Bluetooth (Sony sbh20) straight to my amps, it sounds great. All this bs about USB DAC's is mostly BS. The tablet has a DAC inside its what is converting the 1's and 0's to music. Yeah it might not be the best DAC on the market but I don't think its the source of bad sound quality on most any unit.
I personally am not a fan of hiding a deck just for the amp inside of it. This basically makes zero sense. However many new factory sound systems have the head unit specially eq'd to make the crappy speakers sound good. You might have to get new speakers to make a direct tablet -> amp -> speaker method sound good.
I did car audio for 10yrs I know a bit about it.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
That is beautiful! I want to do that so bad but I change tablets too much. So here's my option, bluetooth and all.
2013 N7 Kang Banged!
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
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For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
ratykat said:
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting rid of the Radio unit all together. Using the USB DAC to send audio to an EQ which has an input from the DAC, and the AUX input. The EQ has a physical push button to switch between Main IN and the AUX IN inputs. So i wanted to Run a Female connector to the center console so that i could just plug in an male cord to the Female Input and hook that up to anyone's phone if they wanted.
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
ratykat said:
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to mount the Aux... I cant find a RCA to Female Aux that allows it to be fixed installed.
EDIT:
LIKE THIS!!!! But Cheaper lol, i dont care for the aftermarket USB + Aux either..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-XMC-3-5MM-PNL-3-5-mm-Panel-Mount-Jack-connects-aux-cable-/301084428008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461a07c6e8
BurningCanine said:
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aux was not an option in my year mustang. The plexiglass just helps keep the components in one place, if i ever decide to rip it out when i sell the car. I am running into an issue on where to install the EQ however.
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was mostly interested in Timurs due to the huge support behind him, and all of the drivers, and programs already built into his Rom/Kernal. It just made it so much more simple to me. Also for that Aux Cable, i want to retain a factory look, and i cant see that being very factory looking inside my center console. I think i will end up using the JBL one that i posted earlier, it looks more factory than the rest and i can ensure that the quality is the highest.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to run temp activated fan i think to control when it gets to hot. Seems the best for me since it can be on when the car is off to keep it a little cooler in the summer. That small of a fan wouldnt drain the battery too fast either. AS far as the EQ, i chose this EQ because of the physical Volume nob. Im thinking that i am going to end up moving the buttons for my Fogs, Defrost and Traction control down, and glass the EQ in their spots.
Well, i went to install the tablet today. Ended up breaking the OTG cable so i have another one on the way by saturday. Will update when it comes!
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
ratykat said:
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable didnt break, but the tip of the OTG cable did. When i was installing i had to bend it a little to go into a notch i made in my console, well it bent to much and wouldnt work anymore. I may try and shave the supporting rubber around it and make a right angle from it.
Yeah looking more and more of it, i think im going to go with the JL one because i have a cigarette lighter outlet in the bezel on my dash that doesn't work that well, so i will just replace it with that. As far as power, i had bought 2 DC-DC 15w 3a usb chargers that you wire directly to a 12v supply, turns out that they didnt work so im contacting the seller to see if it is my fault they dont work or just faulty. If it turns out that it does not work regardless of what i did i am going to go to radio shack and pick up an accessories socket and glue it to the inside of the box i made so it wont be seen. Turns out that the harness i bought from metra has a power and a ground and it will shut off and turn on as the key is turned. So if it comes down to it i will hook it up to that. Also seeing as my remote on wire wont be connected to anything i hooked that up to the power to the radio as well and piggy backed the EQ remote on from it. I will let you know what happens with the power though, i have it currently hooked up to the cigarette lighter that doesn't work all the time, and it seems to be doing fine.
As far as timurs rom goes, it has everything i want in one rom. It has all the files for backup camera, it has power management, DAC doesnt have any issues, it is a seamless product with all the necessities i needed in one build. One of the reasons i went towards that rom is because of the amount of stuff in one place that i wouldnt have to hunt for!
Its all finished for the time being, i will start adding on the other things later on as i need them.
Im looking for a super super thing auxiliary cable. I litteralt have the space of two quaters. Tried removine all the rubber and folding but still the mettal part is too long
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
BurningCanine said:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
kbrn said:
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, Wasnt that hard at all. If you want to do the build i can hook you up with all the information and resources to get u where u need to be.
lucky_strike33 said:
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Local Staples had them on clearance, had trouble with register taking my card. Manager gave me 15% Discount for my troubles.
UPDATE: System works fine so far, only one little bug that i am working out. GPS and wifi connect and work properly, USB DAC works flawlessly, charger works well. The little bug is that when the tablet comes out of firm sleep the buttons dont seem to work except the back button. Dont know what it is but im looking into it.
Where do I buy Timur for my nexus 2013? I went onto his website but couldn't find the donation or download option?
so i have a somewhat similar install in my e39. I am doing 3.5mm to RCA right now, i want to make the switch over to USB OTG.
What specific parts do I need to make it work??
PS I have a pre-amp RCA input processor that it has to connect to.
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.
jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx
Hello, has anyone got this motherboard?
It is hard to find a replacement, board is CHS-503DSP v2 (ALPSFF5000-8227L chipset), motherboard is working well, aswell as Android, but has no sound coming from it to speakers.
I can't get it to work.
Please reply if anyone has solution how to fix no sound issue.
When unit is in car, Android starts , all apps and radio turns on but when out to speakers I hear only buzzing sound and noise.
Thanks.
(upper board is motherboard with core board attached to it, lower is lcd screen board)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
blue_one said:
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Anton TNT said:
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you expect to get from the forum?
If you want to fix that, you need to have the right tools to measure that like an oscilloscope, and the knowledge to read the board pin-out.
You can solder out the amplifier module and put in the same (or at least a similar with the same pin-out as the one which is installed.
If that helps... no one knows, because even something else can be the reason for this failure.
At least you should test with a single tone, may be 400khz, to measure the in- and output of the amplifier module.
Famous words: Take it to someone who knows how to measure the electronics, like a TV-electronic repair shop, if you find someone who is willing to repair that unit. I fear no one will do that, not even for cash money.
Best tip: Take it and throw it into the bin.
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Renate said:
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried all options so far with voltage multimeter. Voltages, rerouting directly on pins on amp (that goes on speakers) etc.
Sound is coming out but only noise , I mean noise like volume is up to max and you can hear buzzing sound, when antenna unpluged from device sound is distorted a starts to crackle.
That are the simptoms.
If anyone can help with their knowledge besides going to service shop thanks, if not it will go in trash bin.
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned, but I have soldered it and connected again with board.
It is giving voltage out and working.
Software isn't issue here as 8227L chipset works with variety of updates (installed and proved).
Replace capacitor c122 and resistor r33.
(,just kidding).
Sounds like audio processing/switch is dead Jim, but not as we know it.
Experience and the ability to reverse engineer is the key skill required to resolve this issue.
@rigattoni gives the best advice here. No one has a crystal ball.
Good luck, but it is a very big long shot asking people here to figure this out for you
Anton TNT said:
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Renate said:
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is LDO Jim? beam me up Scotty (clarify)
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Anton TNT said:
What is LDO Jim?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Renate said:
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Anton TNT said:
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Renate said:
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)
I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound.
I ordered a same little transistor (three leg) , will try to solder that on place when arrive.
The rest Android and all other stuff works well , JUST NO SOUND coming from device, but funny thing when I attach a USB audio output , Android turns to Headset mode and music plays, but only music no FM tuner / radio app.
Trying also with flashing of memory, to get ROOT, and then to clear cache of device from root directory, but my PC with WIN 10 doesn't recognize device and with all DA COM / ADB drivers installed and step by step video online.
Anton TNT said:
I soldered some wire on other not burned side...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
rigattoni said:
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is not much people arround to fix Android head units, so I'm asking help here , please understand me, as I have a little knwledge of android boards, PC yes , Android no !
If you are feeling helpfull help in any way but not in a terms of critisicm.
Thanks.
I will fix that in any way I can. That includes fixing with a help of electronic engineer or someone that knows what to do. As I mentioned only buzzing sound is coming from this board and when transferred thru USB DAC chip sounds go out so problem is some joint or this blown chip / transistor. We will see...
But I agree only on one, It is hard to do anything with no diagrams of this board.
Renate said:
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done that , and cleaned it and then soldered a piece of tungsten soldering wire on gold plates when joints are.
I'm surprised , I tought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not. If you can't see open as attachment and zoom in.
Anton TNT said:
I'm surprised , I thought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Renate said:
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
READ THIS LINE , I HAVE WROTE THIS BEFORE :
"Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound."
No matter , let's continue, happy New Year to you all and best wishes...
Yesterday I had a glimpse of success regarding sound and amplifier.
Maybe can anyone explain this...
After installing POWERAMP EQ app from playstore a few seconds of music played on main speakers, I could hear this, but in a sudden it stopped.