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[Expirement]Thinking of performing a hardware mod for USB hosted microsd/bluetooth

Ok, so i'm ordering a replacement digitizer and I figure this would be a good time to try this out.
As you all know, we Kindle Fire owners have neither expandable storage or bluetooth. Hashcode's new 3.0 kernel has the proper kernel modules/support for USB hosting. Instead of having to plug things in every time I need/want extra storage I figure that i'll try and hook up the stuff inside.
So here's what I figure i'll do when I get all the materials:
I already have a mini bluetooth USB dongle that i've disassembled.
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And i'll be getting a mini USB microsd adapter that I can tear apart down to the same type of thing as the bluetooth dongle.
Now, the easy part is finding space to put them, there are a few gaps/spaces that I found for the bluetooth dongle, and placing the microsd adapter should be just as easy.
The hard part is getting the wiring all wired up on the inside, and this is where I need advice/input. Trying to solder the wires to the pins on the charge/USB port would be too hard and risky since they're so close.
I took apart one of my extra mini-b USB cables to use the pins to try and hook them up like that some way, but I don't have everything I need yet, so it's just a thought.
Ideas, advice, thoughts and/or comments?
Also, I will be documenting what i'm doing so that I can post a tutorial if I succeed.
I've also posted this in the Hardware Hacking subsection of the General board to see if they can give me any insight. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25212394

Many microSD slots have something like a contact that closes only if the microSD is inserted in, activating the reader. You can check this or buy a microSD slot that have this switch built in.

alan110112 said:
Many microSD slots have something like a contact that closes only if the microSD is inserted in, activating the reader. You can check this or buy a microSD slot that have this switch built in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring on what the poster said in the other thread I made about the reader needing to be plugged in after the sd is inserted?
If so i'm not 100% sure that will be an issue. The sd will already be in when the Kindle starts up. If it is an issue I might use a small switch of some sort, but i'm hoping for a more elegant solution if the problem arises.

If u do this and open ur kindle than it will look scratched from sides
Sent From my Kindle Fire
Setupetails are Below
Cm7 Barebones+Raven's Kernel
Minimum:300 Higher 1200mhz
Go launcher Ex With MIUI Theme
Games:MC3,Fifa 2012,Real Racing 2,Stick Cricket,Gangster Rio....
Apps:Mx Video Player,JetVid,Titanium Backup,Opera Mobile,Dolphin HD,Adobe Reader

ma.da.ladla said:
If u do this and open ur kindle than it will look scratched from sides
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've already opened it and put it back together like 5 times and I haven't scratched it. You just need the correct tools and a little experience opening devices.

aaricchavez said:
I've already opened it and put it back together like 5 times and I haven't scratched it. You just need the correct tools and a little experience opening devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I will too if u succeeded.are u planning to solder SD slot to the pins of data cable/charging pins
Sent From my Kindle Fire
Setupetails are Below
Cm7 Barebones+Raven's Kernel
Minimum:300 Higher 1200mhz
Go launcher Ex With MIUI Theme
Games:MC3,Fifa 2012,Real Racing 2,Stick Cricket,Gangster Rio....
Apps:Mx Video Player,JetVid,Titanium Backup,Opera Mobile,Dolphin HD,Adobe Reader

ma.da.ladla said:
Then I will too if u succeeded.are u planning to solder SD slot to the pins of data cable/charging pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the issue i'm trying to solve. The charge port fits snuggly in a little slot. To solve that i'll probably have to grind that part back some to make a little space for the wires. I will probably use the pins from a USB cable and put some solder on the tip of each one to get them to stay. Then i'll connect some thin wires to the pins, and to the adapter.
I ordered them, but I don't have any more spare USB cables or the sd adapter yet, so I can't do a ton as of this moment.
I'm about to do a little experimenting, if I find a solution i'll take a pic to post.

Which why I'm thinking giving my kindle to my wife and buy a full pack tablet., although might be interesting to see if it work, or just buy those cheap made table with lower specs and which those micro SD card slot etc,... old smart phone would be a nice to get all your parts needed...anyway good luck to your project..

Hey, I'm tring to do this to my Galaxy Nexus as well, minus the bluetooth dongle. If you were able to solder the wires to the usb port, do you think you would be able to get the kindle to see the micro sd?

Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?

brizey said:
Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging wouldn't bother me too much as I can easily pick up another battery with an external charger. Now for the kindle, that might be a different story...

from my experience if you tap onto those pins and short 4&5 together, it would indeed mount on reboot!
but have you thought that if the usb port is in permanent otg mode how will you charge/use adb/and mount usb to pc?
for that i think you will need a switch to separate the otg short.
also at the minute i don't know if there would be enough power to be able to operate the flash drive tapping onto the out pins is the same as plugging in a otg cable/adaptor and as of yet most (if not all) flashdrives need additional power source.
that being said someone mentioned that linux double the safety limit for the max power draw, so i think that maybe some dev-god (hash) would need to alter something in the kernel to lower the safety threshold.
as you pointed out in previous post where to put all those wires
and switch?
not sure but the bluetooth could work but probably with the same issues as above .
hope this helps (i'm not trying to burst your bubble as i like a little hardware Modding myself) but i think you should put your efforts & skills into a slim useable adaptor or something, which pack's all those goodies but 1.can be removable and 2. if you f$+k up your soldering as i have lots on my otg adaptors then its not good bye mr kindle
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium

I must have missed the email notification of replies :/
Muddog7998 said:
Hey, I'm tring to do this to my Galaxy Nexus as well, minus the bluetooth dongle. If you were able to solder the wires to the usb port, do you think you would be able to get the kindle to see the micro sd?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, as long as USB host is working.
brizey said:
Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tested it and so far it does not affect charging.
Muddog7998 said:
Charging wouldn't bother me too much as I can easily pick up another battery with an external charger. Now for the kindle, that might be a different story...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read above.
lovejoy777 said:
from my experience if you tap onto those pins and short 4&5 together, it would indeed mount on reboot!
but have you thought that if the usb port is in permanent otg mode how will you charge/use adb/and mount usb to pc?
for that i think you will need a switch to separate the otg short.
also at the minute i don't know if there would be enough power to be able to operate the flash drive tapping onto the out pins is the same as plugging in a otg cable/adaptor and as of yet most (if not all) flashdrives need additional power source.
that being said someone mentioned that linux double the safety limit for the max power draw, so i think that maybe some dev-god (hash) would need to alter something in the kernel to lower the safety threshold.
as you pointed out in previous post where to put all those wires
and switch?
not sure but the bluetooth could work but probably with the same issues as above .
hope this helps (i'm not trying to burst your bubble as i like a little hardware Modding myself) but i think you should put your efforts & skills into a slim useable adaptor or something, which pack's all those goodies but 1.can be removable and 2. if you f$+k up your soldering as i have lots on my otg adaptors then its not good bye mr kindle
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got the wires soldered onto the pins no problem, I just can't get USB host to work at all, I haven't tested since build #6(I think)(I used some modules someone posted that they compiled) of Hashcode's kernel though. I know I didn't mess up soldering cause USB still works as well as charging, and I get a reading on a multimeter when I test the + & - leads.
I've thought of a solution for turning off USB host easily, all it requires is a magnet and a reed switch/s. Read below.
Also, my main goal is to get storage working, after that I might try bluetooth and/or gps over UART(read below)I've ordered about 10 different microsd adapters, some of which claim to need no power(confused me at first lol, I think they meant no external power), anyways, my point is microsd cards require very little power to run, so I think they'll work. If power is an issue I can just take a couple of resistors and such and power the adapter straight from the battery.
Other thread was created here, just want to keep all the threads up to date: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1632277
aaricchavez said:
The UART modules are only an idea, the main problem with going that direction instead of USB host is the drivers the modules would need(They all usually come with generic ones, but they would need to be customized for Android). I have very limited code/coding knowledge so I would need alot of help or soeone to do that part completely. I was going to pm Hashcode for help if I decided to try out the UART modules. Also, i'm unsure if more than one module can be used at the same time.
Like I just posted in the thread i'm still waiting on some stuff to arrive to actually get started on the USB host attempt. I have the wires soldered to the USB/Charge port pins, but since I don't have the microsd adapter or any more spare cords to rip apart I can't go further. I ordered about 10 different mini microsd adapters to take apart and see which works out the best.
Other people have USB host working, so shouldn't be difficult. I've just never used USB host before so i'm not real sure of what to expect.
The only downside is that there needs to be a switch of some sort somewhere to disable USB host so that adb/storage will work. I'm trying to think of something a little more elegant that having a huge hole in the case with a switch protruding out of the side. I'm going to go searching for some solutions and a super small switch.
All the UART GPS modules I found when searching "uart gps module" on Google are mostly from India and are between $30-50ish, the receivers look to be about the size of a quarter.
*http://robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robomar...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64&vmcchk=1&Itemid=64
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robosap...ategory_id=27&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64
I decided to look on Sparkfun and adafruit and i'm glad I did, it looks like they both have some modules, but I haven't looked around and dug through them yet.
*http://www.sparkfun.com/categories/4
*http://www.adafruit.com/category/35_58
All the optimism aside i'm not all too sure that we could get the GPS UART module to work. From what I see (First picture: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1471813) the UART output that Hashcode put into use only has two GNDs a TX and RX. The modules that I found all look like they need 8 connections. Adafruit has a nice pic of the connections labeled here: http://www.adafruit.com/products/746
If you're talking about microsd UART modules, as mentioned in the thread I created, someone made the point that it wouldn't make much sense because speeds would be way too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aaricchavez said:
I hate to double post, but I found the perfect solution for the switch. A reed switch or two plus a small magnet will work wonders
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642
Edit: Here are the switches that I am buying, they're the cheapest spdt reed switches I could find: http://www.newark.com/hamlin/mdrr-dt-15-20-f/switch-reed-spdt-co-1-5a-175vdc/dp/24C6463
This will allow USB host to be activated constantly and then deactivated easily with a neodymium magnet to use adb, USB storage and whatnot.
I'm pleased that I found such an elegant solution, no need to mess up the housing to put in a switch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Extending Camera Flex Cable on Nexus 7

I'm looking to replaced my Nook Color in my car with a Nexus 7 in the coming weeks. Can be seen here One of the things that I wanted to do was a back up camera.
My intentions were to originally do either a BT or WiFi camera but I realized that it would be ridiculous for me to sit in reverse for 10+ seconds while my tablet pairs/connects with the tablet. This leaves me with the only one other option which is to use the front facing camera. I am considering extending the cable by about 9 feet. I have no idea if this will even work because of the length needed.
I think the way I want to do it is by using hot air to remove the connector for the camera from the board, then solder thin wire to each contact. Then in the back of my car, above the license plate, I would have a backup camera housing which would house the front facing camera and some sort of FPC/FFC board allowing me to install the connector I removed from the main board earlier. I would then plug in the front facing camera to the board with the installed connector.
My biggest question at this point is.... Do you think the range is too long for something like this? I drive a fairly small car so it won't be as long as say an RV or something. Here's some of the parts. I was able to find the part number for the connector by using the M370T diagrams floating around the forums.
Board Connector
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Camera Side Connector
Below is the kind of board that I would like to find to put into the backup camera housing. The pitch is right but the width is off. I'd have to hunt a little more but I think I can find something that would work.
http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=2200081
Kind of what I'm thinking..
Let me know what you guys think. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

As long as you get good solder connections and make sure its weather proof it should wirk. Maybe wrap it in some shielding to cut down on electrical interferance from the car. The only worry is the resistance from that length wire may be too much and not work. I'm not sure how sensetive it is to resistance changes. I would say try it, but make sure it works with that length wire before doing a full install. Cool idea.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda app-developers app

Hi. I'm sorry to say that you would be wasting your time trying to extend that cable. The signals from the camera module are low-voltage high speed link running at 25+ MHz. There is no line drivers in the camera module, nor the Nexus mainboard, so they won't be able to drive the cable capacitance, rendering you with a camera that won't work.
IF you had the right circuitry, you could maybe extend the camera half a metre, without extra circuitry, i would guess 10 Centimeters maximum.
I have my HU mounted under my drivers seat along with one of my Amp's and i have extended the Front panel connection so it's up above the rearview mirror. Had the same problem, not able to drive the cable. Added some line drivers and it worked, but only because the signalling speed were below 500 KHz.
// Per.

You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app

Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium

Omyn said:
You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think parts you selected are ok. But as zapro said - the problem is in transmitting high frequency signals on such long range so it creates much more complex problem.
You could probably use circuits called "Buffers" to drive voltage level in cable to higher (in your phone its 1.8~3V), like 10~20V. Near the camera there would be also buffers to drive it back to the source level. Also you need pinout of camera connector to generate camera power lines (voltages and ground) in your trunk.
You'd have to calculate max frequency of camera's clock signal (inspecting kernel driver should provide enough info) and get buffers of high enough quality. For normal circuits like this http://www.linuxfocus.org/common/src/article251/TL071.pdf (op-amp is a magical device with hundreds of uses, that also can serve as a buffer) usual maximum working frequency is less than 1MHz. You would need something that's working good up to 25MHz or so (like zapro said).
Everything is doable, it's always matter of motivation and time.

I dunno. At those speeds the wires have to be exactly the same length. I don't think it would work.
You'd be better off setting up a raspi, a touchscreen, a mobile phone and your tablet up to use mirrorop sender and have the raspi change its receiver settings when you put the car in reverse. Put a phone on your license plate or behind the bumper so it can display rear view as a mirror view sender.
I've never played with mirrorview, so I don't know much more than the general outline.

fadownjoo said:
Are there no usb cameras that can work with otg cable?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the route that I must go. My concerns initially were the ability to charge while using the device in USB host mode but that seems to be possible now.
My only concern now would be to find some way to have the tablet switch on the usb camera when the reverse lights are on and mirror the source. I'm thinking something like this might be possible with a IOIO board as an interface. I just don't know what would be the best way to set this up. Maybe something along the lines of a simulated media button from the IOIO when it detects the 12 volts. Then I would have a program like tasker trigger the webcam to open when it detects the media button press.
I would also like a way for when the tablet detects the battery is under 75% then flip a relay to pull the charge straight from the battery as opposed to the cigarette lighter adapter. That way if the car sits, the tablet will never drain to low battery.
I appreciate everyone's input so far.

I don't think the nexus camera is good enough and the angle is wide enough... Camera normally come with 160 degree view which let you see your whole bumper...
Accidentally sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Been hoping for a solution to this also
I've toyed with the idea of installing a Samsung Galaxy Tab Tablet 2 7.0 in my Nissan Maxima where I already have a rear view camera installed in the trunk key-hole. It's pretty slick, but the screen in the dash ONLY shows the camera image- no other functionality (the radio is in the single-din space below the double din space where my 7" screen is). I'd like to swap it out for a tab with tons more features and still retain use of the camera. Every way I try to make this work leads me to a dead end And this forum is about the only one I've seen online for similar interest.
My original thought was finding the video input lead from the rear view camera, matching the frequency from my existing cam and just piping the signal in directly to that lead, leaving all other circuitry intact. But after reading here, i'm thinking converting a standard NTSC signal to the galaxy rear cam input is not an easy task.
Has anyone found any documentation out there for specs on that camera, frequencies, pin-outs, etc??
Cheers,
Q

I also want to extend front camera ( or rear camera) of my mobile xeomi mi4i without any distortion in quality of video/pic. Even half meter extension will be sufficient. I am ready to drill hole in back cover of Mobile if required. I want to know from where i can get connector cable etc for the same. I guess there won't be any distortion for half meter extension and no external amplifier/ buffer required. Thanks in advance.
QUOTE=Omyn;33894241]You extended the camera up there or the LCD? What part would I need to extend the camera? Do you have a part number?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app[/QUOTE]

[Q] Help! MK808 No Video

I just bought a MK808 from a guy on CraigsList. I went to his house and played with the device on his TV so I know the thing works. I messed around on it for a while and it seemed fine. Once I got home I hooked it up to my TV (Westinghouse 46" 1080p LED) and the MK808 gets a blue LED power light but nothing is showing up on my TV. I tried it on a few Computer LCDs at the house that are 1680x1050 res using an hdmi-dvi cable and I am still getting nothing. Did the unit somehow fry on my way home? Is there a way to do a factory reset without video to the MK808? Im kind of at a loss here. Im not sure what to do. The guy said I could come back to test it on his TV again but its a 45 minute drive from my place. Id like to save the gas if I can. I know this thing worked so I dont know whats going on.

change Hdmi cable.

But Ive gone from the HDMI on the TV to an HDMI-DVI for the computer monitors. So that is another cable.

spotopolis said:
But Ive gone from the HDMI on the TV to an HDMI-DVI for the computer monitors. So that is another cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But DVI reduction tend to have problems with displaying on some TVs or monitors. Probably do not recognize the resolution settings. I deal with the same problem but with HDMI to HDMI displayed correctly.

spotopolis said:
I just bought a MK808 from a guy on CraigsList. I went to his house and played with the device on his TV so I know the thing works. I messed around on it for a while and it seemed fine. Once I got home I hooked it up to my TV (Westinghouse 46" 1080p LED) and the MK808 gets a blue LED power light but nothing is showing up on my TV. I tried it on a few Computer LCDs at the house that are 1680x1050 res using an hdmi-dvi cable and I am still getting nothing. Did the unit somehow fry on my way home? Is there a way to do a factory reset without video to the MK808? Im kind of at a loss here. Im not sure what to do. The guy said I could come back to test it on his TV again but its a 45 minute drive from my place. Id like to save the gas if I can. I know this thing worked so I dont know whats going on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the bad news: This is a known issue that the MK808 works on some TV's and not on a lot of others. See this forum for some suggestions on how to POSSIBLY solve the issue: http://www.armtvtech.com/armtvtechforum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=141
The unit also has big wifi connectivity issues due to what appears to be shoddy antennas. The unit needs to have the USB power adapter upgraded or it will be under powered and not function properly. There's also a resolution issue which can be fixed with an upgrade in ROM, but you still won't get true 1080p output. First, you would need to get the unit to output video though.
The good news is that if you can solve the video output problem, ensure the proper USB power supply, upgrade the firmware ROM, and possibly do a hardware mod for the antennas, the unit works well. I have mine up and running with little to no issues. Good luck.

Well I ordered another off Ebay and when it got here it worked on my TV and both of my computer LCDs. So somehow the unit must have fried between picking it up and getting to my place.

Ive been reading up on the firmware updates. Im wondering if this "fried" stick was rooted and had custom firmware on it. It does get power. So Im wondering if I can use the update tools and flash it back to a stock unrooted updated firmware? Maybe there is still hope?

how much power does it need
i got powersupply whit 1 amp
Its only wifi is little poor for me

this site says it needs a 2A powersupply
http://www.geekbuying.com/item/MK80...ip-RK3066-Cortex-A9-Mini-PC-stick-307415.html

It needs more power.
TV USB ports dont five it enough power to do much other than boot and run services.
Try plugging the USB in to a turned on laptop or xbox or even a phone charger plug (Phone plug not good enough for 100% running)
90% of blank screens or freeze ups of MK808 are due to inadequate power supply.
Sent from my MK808 using XDA Premium HD app

Just a little comment since this thread has turned into a thread about power consumption.
I have one of those light-up USB to Micro USB cables. It has a series of EL strips, that give the illusion of "seeing" the electricity move through the cable.
It is also current sensitive, the more current, the faster the EL strips appear to sequence.
As an experiment, I used it to power my Jesurun NX003 Android stick (looks the same as iMito MX1). You can really see the different levels of power consumption for different tasks.
Even just surfing the web, you can see the current jump for a few seconds when it renders the page.
Games, HD video, make it sequence even faster.
Of course, it would also be very easy to fashion a USB cable with a break in the (+5V) line, and a couple of banana jacks so that you could connect up a DVM in Current mode.

Linuxslate said:
Just a little comment since this thread has turned into a thread about power consumption.
I have one of those light-up USB to Micro USB cables. It has a series of EL strips, that give the illusion of "seeing" the electricity move through the cable.
It is also current sensitive, the more current, the faster the EL strips appear to sequence.
As an experiment, I used it to power my Jesurun NX003 Android stick (looks the same as iMito MX1). You can really see the different levels of power consumption for different tasks.
Even just surfing the web, you can see the current jump for a few seconds when it renders the page.
Games, HD video, make it sequence even faster.
Of course, it would also be very easy to fashion a USB cable with a break in the (+5V) line, and a couple of banana jacks so that you could connect up a DVM in Current mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds cool. Do you have a link?

That sounds cool. Do you have a link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry; Should have included that:
Also, for those in the US, these are apparently on sale at BestBuy for $12.99 (Reg $15.99)
They are available in MicroUSB, MiniUSB, and Apple 30-pin. Black or white cable (off) color. All the ones I have seen light up blue, despite being marked green, purple, etc. (I think they mean "green" as in Tree-hugger).
http://www.dexim.net/us/products/V-Green/DWA065.html
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Just an update to everyone that has tried to help, I got the device working a while back by flashing a custom ROM to it. Its running like a champ and I am currently working on a custom case mod.
I took an old WD MyBook 500GB enclosure and put a laptop 160GB SATA drive in it (to make room).
Removed the MK808 from the case and replaced the heatsink with some vram heatsinks from a aftermarket videocard kit.
Removed the cheap antennas that were soldered to the MK808 and replaced them with the antennas from an old Zoom GamePoint 4420.
I dissembled a 7 port USB hub and removed the cover.
All this will fit in the HDD enclosure with plenty of breathing room. I have had to do some soldering to make it look nice and move the AC port and PowerSwitch from the USB hub to the back of the enclosure with all the other ports. Im still going to have 3 separate PSUs but at least it will be a lot less tangled of a unit. I will post pics once I am completed with my mod.

RoganTheTwat said:
It needs more power.
TV USB ports dont five it enough power to do much other than boot and run services.
Try plugging the USB in to a turned on laptop or xbox or even a phone charger plug (Phone plug not good enough for 100% running)
90% of blank screens or freeze ups of MK808 are due to inadequate power supply.
Sent from my MK808 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhost2 offer 5V2A adapter. Support mobile hard disk drive easily.
RK3066 dual core,1.6Ghz,with BT and DLNA feature. If you don't want BT,could choose without BT for cost down.Default root for user,more friendly design in software,hardware and Industrial desgin. Private mold make Uhost special,unique and firm.
Original designed by smallart-odmDOTcom, [email protected]. Skype:rachel.chen11

Hi there,
How did you managed to flash firmware without video display?
Can you give me links and steps please?
Thanks
mkderb

mkderb said:
Hi there,
How did you managed to flash firmware without video display?
Can you give me links and steps please?
Thanks
mkderb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the flash tools for these devices dont require an external display. usually you will have to connect the android stick to the computer via usb while running an update utility for your specific device holding down the recovery hardware button. sometimes if you have flashed a custom recovery img such as clockworkmod you will need to have display connectivity to navigate the recover options. but it all depends on the device you have.

haxin said:
the flash tool or these devices dont require an external display. usually you will have to connect the android stick to the computer via usb while running an update utility for your specific device holding down the recovery hardware button. sometimes if you have flashed a custom recovery img such as clockworkmod you will need to have display connectivity to navigate the recover options. but it all depends on the device you have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi haxin,
I realized that the device is mk808c not mk808 and I can't find any flashing tool for it
Thanks for thinking about helping me
MKDerb

New Edge Mustang Nexus 7 Install

Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?

Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.

ratykat said:
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting rid of the Radio unit all together. Using the USB DAC to send audio to an EQ which has an input from the DAC, and the AUX input. The EQ has a physical push button to switch between Main IN and the AUX IN inputs. So i wanted to Run a Female connector to the center console so that i could just plug in an male cord to the Female Input and hook that up to anyone's phone if they wanted.

Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?

ratykat said:
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to mount the Aux... I cant find a RCA to Female Aux that allows it to be fixed installed.
EDIT:
LIKE THIS!!!! But Cheaper lol, i dont care for the aftermarket USB + Aux either..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-XMC-3-5MM-PNL-3-5-mm-Panel-Mount-Jack-connects-aux-cable-/301084428008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461a07c6e8

BurningCanine said:
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.

butwhydoitalk2u said:
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aux was not an option in my year mustang. The plexiglass just helps keep the components in one place, if i ever decide to rip it out when i sell the car. I am running into an issue on where to install the EQ however.

Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.

ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.

ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was mostly interested in Timurs due to the huge support behind him, and all of the drivers, and programs already built into his Rom/Kernal. It just made it so much more simple to me. Also for that Aux Cable, i want to retain a factory look, and i cant see that being very factory looking inside my center console. I think i will end up using the JBL one that i posted earlier, it looks more factory than the rest and i can ensure that the quality is the highest.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to run temp activated fan i think to control when it gets to hot. Seems the best for me since it can be on when the car is off to keep it a little cooler in the summer. That small of a fan wouldnt drain the battery too fast either. AS far as the EQ, i chose this EQ because of the physical Volume nob. Im thinking that i am going to end up moving the buttons for my Fogs, Defrost and Traction control down, and glass the EQ in their spots.

Well, i went to install the tablet today. Ended up breaking the OTG cable so i have another one on the way by saturday. Will update when it comes!

Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying

ratykat said:
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable didnt break, but the tip of the OTG cable did. When i was installing i had to bend it a little to go into a notch i made in my console, well it bent to much and wouldnt work anymore. I may try and shave the supporting rubber around it and make a right angle from it.
Yeah looking more and more of it, i think im going to go with the JL one because i have a cigarette lighter outlet in the bezel on my dash that doesn't work that well, so i will just replace it with that. As far as power, i had bought 2 DC-DC 15w 3a usb chargers that you wire directly to a 12v supply, turns out that they didnt work so im contacting the seller to see if it is my fault they dont work or just faulty. If it turns out that it does not work regardless of what i did i am going to go to radio shack and pick up an accessories socket and glue it to the inside of the box i made so it wont be seen. Turns out that the harness i bought from metra has a power and a ground and it will shut off and turn on as the key is turned. So if it comes down to it i will hook it up to that. Also seeing as my remote on wire wont be connected to anything i hooked that up to the power to the radio as well and piggy backed the EQ remote on from it. I will let you know what happens with the power though, i have it currently hooked up to the cigarette lighter that doesn't work all the time, and it seems to be doing fine.
As far as timurs rom goes, it has everything i want in one rom. It has all the files for backup camera, it has power management, DAC doesnt have any issues, it is a seamless product with all the necessities i needed in one build. One of the reasons i went towards that rom is because of the amount of stuff in one place that i wouldnt have to hunt for!

Its all finished for the time being, i will start adding on the other things later on as i need them.

Im looking for a super super thing auxiliary cable. I litteralt have the space of two quaters. Tried removine all the rubber and folding but still the mettal part is too long

dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol

BurningCanine said:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??

kbrn said:
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, Wasnt that hard at all. If you want to do the build i can hook you up with all the information and resources to get u where u need to be.
lucky_strike33 said:
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Local Staples had them on clearance, had trouble with register taking my card. Manager gave me 15% Discount for my troubles.
UPDATE: System works fine so far, only one little bug that i am working out. GPS and wifi connect and work properly, USB DAC works flawlessly, charger works well. The little bug is that when the tablet comes out of firm sleep the buttons dont seem to work except the back button. Dont know what it is but im looking into it.

Where do I buy Timur for my nexus 2013? I went onto his website but couldn't find the donation or download option?

so i have a somewhat similar install in my e39. I am doing 3.5mm to RCA right now, i want to make the switch over to USB OTG.
What specific parts do I need to make it work??
PS I have a pre-amp RCA input processor that it has to connect to.

Newsmy Carpad 4

Just a place holder for now. I rec'd my test/sample unit today. I took it out of the box just long enough to snap a photo or 2 to send to a friend. Nothing detailed worth posting here yet. I'll try to take better photos this evening, and might even try to get wired into the truck.
Of note: It looks just like the NU/NR3001. Same screen size, same buttons. It also came with a dash cam with a dedicated harness/plug. I haven't investigated the underlying connection type (USB, Composite, etc).
Will post more details and clean up this OP as I do.

Thanks two-head/three-arms. Looking forward to it!

First look. I have a few software/language issues to solve before I put this in my truck, but here's a quick runthrough:

I can't watch properly at work but those Bonovo apps look very familiar.

Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey. It is not clear, and where a slot for a SIM card. Look on their website in China http://www.newsmy-car.com/product/showproduct.php?lang=cn&id=75

Thanks for posting. I am wondering if they packaged the main board in an NR housing as the new one is not yet ready, and this is a sample. Just a guess as the one on the web page looks a little different and it definitely needs a slot for a sim card. Seems like they made very little change to the MCU portion if the same code runs on it; stating that based on version number. Dash camera specific slot is of course new but all other cables are identical to the ones I received with my NR. If you get a chance please test USB behavior on shutdown. Thanks!

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a post just now about the Joying x86 Sofia units getting 21901, so that score seems pretty damn good.

Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely looks hacked together. The main board is much smaller than the NR one. I think they would take advantage by packaging in a smaller chassis. No heatsink on the one you have; the NR one is not adequate as is if you run all four channels at moderate to high volumes.
Does it really only have 1 GB RAM, as listed on the webpage?
Be careful with the USB you order. Several people have had issues with cables longer than 3ft. You should have gotten a second USB cable with it and too bad they did not give you the 5.1 cable (sticker shows it has the output).

hello, I am also curious. the Carpad 4 has really only 1 GB of RAM and 16 GB of internal space ?? For me to have 1 GB would be a total regression.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I saw is a failure . The device really is not ready at all. And what they want from you? What is the test? Here it is necessary to refine the mind is still lots and lots. 1GB of RAM is not serious at all. My NU 1GB of memory and I want to buy a new unit with 2GB of RAM, 1GB is not too much and not enough.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you think the SOC is? I think it must be on the same board as the sim (underneath the MCU board or on the underside) as the SOC they are using has built in 4g/Bluetooth/wifi and all the antennae are all originating off that board. I am guessing that black overhang off the back are the external 4g antennae?

This is my Carpad 4 . It has simcard slot in the unit. We need to open cover to insert simcard - this is so fun! And we have somethings more:
1- This unit haven't Chplay to install app from market; may be in final version they will update this. I have only head unit for tester
2 - xposed additions (one of the most interesting module for exposed framework on our car) will not work at all. So we can't use this exposed addition module to do something as carpad 3. We will ask Newsmy do keyeditor can function as addition xposed.
3 - Ram 1Gb - this is downgrade product from carpad 3
The good new is Camera has got verry good quantily (HD camera 720p or 1080P)
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I have this unit in my hand, so if someone needs more pictures , I will take

The 1GB seems to be the only real downside so far. But, that may or may not affect real world performance. I'm still trying to sort out a few things before I put it in the truck full time. Then I can see if the RAM degrades performance.
The camera additions are pretty neat, and I'm waiting to see how this 'New Yan' remote app works (I can't get logged in).
I cut their rear camera harness and tried to wire in my existing OEM rear cam (I REALLY don't want to run their camera to the back of my truck!), but that didn't work on my initial test. The front/DVR cam is pretty neat. I was able to sideload Waze, and will make another stab at sideloading Google Play services this weekend.
I'll take some more pics/videos when done.
I know some are dismissing this device due to the 1GB, but I'd suggest holding off on judgement. What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm hoping. I still think the NR is a pretty great device with xdAuto on it (with the stock ROM I could never get it to stop reporting "Main activity has stopped".
Unrelated I am curious about the relationship between Bonovo and Newsmy. Is Bonovo a supplier to Newsmy. The MCU board on the 4 actually says Bonovo, not Newsmy!

Another test video:
I also came up with a really crazy idea. I was working on a friends NR5002 getting ready for his install next week. Realize that all the Nu/NR and Carpad4 chassis and screens, etc. should be interchangeable. I have an NU5002 with no android box to power it... and of course I prefer the 8" screen to the 7" universal so ......
Tearing them all down now.... Could be able to make a Carpad4 version of my NU5002

Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, it is possible that it will come in handy.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=60056637&postcount=3864

Very interesting, I too have a NU5002 and would love an 8" version. Is it still mostly empty with circuit boards on the bottom? This would help me as I need to modify the case and maybe remove the screen from the rest to make it fit in my car.
Software wise, is it lollipop with a kit kat base like I've seen other manufacturers do?
Syncing text from phone to head unit seems like a neat feature. Any idea of back porting it to previous units? Honestly that should already be implemented in Android natively.