Database Users

Need help (Qtek2020)

Hi all
yesterday, while trying to put my device into my jeans pocket, i left it and it fall down to the ground... No damage at the moment after a first check... everything ok... BUT... after coming back home, i've put it into the connection base and anything happened... i've tried softreset but anything happened too.... so i've noticed, looking at the bottom of the qtek, that the port for the cable/base connection wasn't ok.
Here is the problem.... i get no activesync connection or power charging because the port is damaged... i've found that this port moves in every direction and so it isn't well attached to the mainboard. So i decided to disassemble the device to understand what is the problem whit my qtek.
After disassembling it, i noticed that the port has lost the weld that locks it to the mainboard...
And now??? What to do??? The port is completely detached and i think that there is no way to weld it again to the MB.
I'm out of warranty time too and i think that the warranty doesn't cover this kind of problem even because the technician will understand the reason of the unwelding.... and even because i'm not using my original rom from qtek....
So i thought one thing... is there any way to find a cable to connect the device from the port that i found just under the battery??? Where can i find the right cable??? And will it be usefull to get back again all the functionalities???
Please help.... i don't want to break up from my qtek so soon.... and i would like to wait few months before to buy a new device... (universal).
Hope someone will give me some advices... or suggestions.
Bye.... MINDGAP.

Anyone's got an advice for me??? Anyone can help???
I'm in troubloe here and i would like to understand if i could make my own cable to use from the back door port that i found under the battery cover of my device.
I tried to look in the himalaya wiki page but i found anything about this port.... only connection for the main port... that i can't use anymore because it's completely distroyed....
Please help me i can't believe that i'have to throw away my pocket pc only because of this problem....
What i would like to understand is if i can weld the port back again to the MB or even to give power from the port that is placed under the battery to use it only like Navigator in my car.
Please let me know if i can find a cable or a different solution in order to get my device back with all functionalities... i could even send the device to someone who could repair it and send it back again.
I would pay to have it back repaired.
Hope someone will help.
Thanks and have a nice day!

some images from the disaster!!!!
ok... here u are some images taken this afternoon.... featuring my POOR DEVICE..... terribly wounded.... almost dead!!!!
Hope these images will help you in trying to find a solution....
THIS IS THE SITUATION HERE.......
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THE CONNECTOR IS FULLY DETACHED FROM THE MB.... AND I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO BUY ONE BRAND NEW... OR IF I CAN USE THIS ONE AGAIN.......
HERE U ARE TWO IMAGES OF THE MB WITHOUT THE CONNECTOR... AS U CAN SEE.... THE MB IS NOT DAMAGED AT ALL..... AND I THINK THAT THERE COULD BE A WAY TO RESOLD THE CONNECTOR......
ONE DOUBT ABOUT THIS LAST PICTURE.... IS THE SECONDARY PORT USABLE???? WHERE CAN I FIND A CABLE OR CONNECTOR THAT MATCH WITH IT????
LAST PICTURES SHOW THE STATUS OF THE CONNECTOR AND THE CAGE THAT PROTECTS IT.... IS THERE ANYWAY TO USE THEM AGAIN???
I HOPE THAT SOMEONE HAS SOME SOGGESTIONS FOR ME BECAUSE AFTER A SEARCH ON THE FORUM I FOUND ONLY INFORMATION ABOUT THE CONNECTORS BUT NOT IF IT IS POSSIBLE TO SOLDER AND TO BUY A NEW ONE.......
Thanks in advance just for reading this post.... and thanks much more for answering.....

Mindgap,
go to www.ipaqrepair.co.uk, order the Switch Board Socket 22 Pin (3800 Series)
Product code: 204
link is:
http://www.ipaqrepair.co.uk/view_product.php?product=204
I think your device will be good as new.
good luck
ATC

Thanks for everything u did for me ATC.....
I hope my device will be back soon...
Best regards.
Mindgap

if this is still a problem for you and all else has failed then I would be preperd to try and resoulder the connection for you I do have all the right equipment and I have experance as I have chiped sevreal Xboxs and thay have a fue fiddley bits plus I was traned to militry spec in solderin at EEV but there is no garantee but from what I have seen I may well be able to do the job. You can pm me in here and I will be watching this thred.

...
Well I've had also this problem once. I have broken this connector off the board with the charging adapter from charger. Anyway it isn't too difficult to repair that if you are a bit handy. Just use a micro-solder and carefuly sold the connector back.
Important:
1. Don't plug the battery while you repair that!
2. Use the rosin to prevent decant the pewter on the pins
3. Use the pewter-suction band to remove the pewter from the connector if is it too much
4. When finished,use a mechanical tools to remove the rest of the rosin. Don't use alcohol based solvents(I have damaged the JoyStick with Isopropyl-Alcohol)!
5. Ensure that all pins are solded separately and no pins are bridged by soldering!
Probably this will result as a Hard-reset,because the repair will take probably more than 30mins without battery or you can short-circuit the backup battery. Therefore backup all your data(WM5-Only RAMdisk).

In the meantime, you could still communicate with your wounded beast say using Activesync over Bluetooth (that will sort out your sync issues and allow you to have an up to date copy of your data). Similalry if you have or can get an SD card you can dunp copies of data onto that too.
Also if you can get your hands on a second battery quickly enough, use the cradle to keep one bat on charge while using the other in the device. Regularly swap over will mean that you can at least use your Himam until you are in a position to solder new/old parts.
Regards - Mallow1

Can some one post a topic or a detailed manual on how to disassemble the hima?
Regds Aldo

...
You need to remove the black antenna cover. After that is it easy. Just few screws. Remove all parts in cover neighbourhood(card,stylus,antenna connector cap). Then release both hooks located at the top of the battery with your nail or small screwdriver pushed into the stylus hole and at the volume-slider location. After that release fixings in surround of the card slot. Do it easily and carefully! Otherwise you can break the plastic. You can find also the service manual at wiki.xda-dev,but DON'T do it that way! That procedure is wrong.

Disassaemble
Can anyone send some pictures on how to disassemble the qtek. Which screws do we need to pull out and how do you do that?

hi i did assemble the connector my self , but i m in Egypt , Cairo ...if you like call me on my handy
+20123382923
Jimmy Rag

Some 'Play' in the Mini-USB connector?

I am slightly worried about the mini-USB connector on my QTEK 9100 as it seems to have a little bit of 'play' in it - i.e. it can be moved slightly and so seems loose.
I have read various threads about the connectors breaking and either being pushed into the device or simply falling out. Some people seem to have had some success getting them replaced or repaired under warranty, others haven't. Since I bought mine off eBay last year I think I am pretty much out of luck regarding warranty.
Anyway if I take the stylus or something similar and push the metal edge of the mini-USB connector it moves slightly within the over-sized hole in the plastic case (there is a very slight gap all around the metal outer part of the mini-USB connector and the hole in the plastic case). I am not sure whether it has always done this or it is becoming loose. Can someone else check whether their mini-USB connector moves slightly in the manner I describe or if theirs is solid? It is only a very slight movement but really that is all it has the ability to move since the gap between the metal and the plastic is very small.
The connection seems OK to my PC and I have upgraded the ROM a few times recently but this slight movement is getting me a bit concerned that it is going to break shortly and since this is the only way to charge it I will be left a bit stuck
If it is on it's way out what are my options and what are the likely costs? I don't think I have any warranty case and I am in the UK.
Thanks
Andy

loose mini-USB connector
My MDA also had a loose mini USB connector over time it continued to become loose until it finially brokw. I was forunate that T-Mobile did replace it under warranty.
I did find a company ont he internet that charges $60 to replace the MDA with a new mini USB Connector. It does require the device to be shipped to them.
Here is ther website address:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/
Good Luck

I have applied a rather crude fix by inserting some small pieces of card (I cut up a business card) around the slight gap between the outer metal part of the mini-USB connector and the surrounding plastic. This seems to have stopped the connector moving, although I still think the damage may have been done
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It's charging and syncing without any issues though so I will see how it goes.
Andy

Loose Stylus & Mini USB inspection.....
My Wizard has recently developed the loose stylus issue outlined here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=247497&highlight=loose+stylus
I have followed the instructions to 'strengthen' the small plastic retention tab using a bit of silicone which is currently drying.....
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Has anyone else performed this repair successfully?
Andy (slightly worried )

Since the replies were so encouraging I went ahead and re-soldered the pads and it's still working......
The silicone didn't work so I removed it and inserted a small piece of plastic and re-siliconed it in place. It's better than it was originally now
I think I'll take the back off again in a few weeks and see how the mini USB connector is. Any other advice as to keeping the USB connector intact?
Andy

Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks

Service Manual on FTP
mrhaddock said:
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link I posted in the 4th post. There is a service manual on the FTP.
The trickiest bit it unlocking the hooks on the back panel - it feels like you are going to snap the thing
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
HTH
Andy

ADB100 said:
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had a MP3 player which has the same problem with the output jack (for the ear phone). The solder became loose and I get irritating silences during the music play back. I solve the problem by applying superglue on top of it because the circuits there are just way too small for my (or any other human) soldering skill.
Anyway, for this case, it seems that the ground is large enough to withstand minor heat from the solder. And, chances are, since it ground, in most cases thick/wide enough most of the way (as to absorb any 'distrubances') before it reaches any IC which is what you need to be really careful of.

USB Hardware Problem

Hi @ all,
at the first, sorry for my bad english.
On my wizard, the usb connector was detached. So i solder it new on the
mainboard, but i can not connect via usb. I think there is a another part
demanged too.
I have found this site : http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~HTC_Wizard-511~area~repairs~item~REP%2DUSBCON01~name~HTC+Wizard+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
Up to five parts can be demanged. But i don't know which parts. Have anyone
some informations about this ???
I hope someone can give me a tip and can help me.
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb

Hello,
They say, traces can be damaged, (not parts), traces are the metal draws wich are on the motherboard.
I have a similar problem. but I now, (if I apply pressure to the usb plug) it works, so I'm looking for an spare part to get mine fixed.
Maybe you Have the same problem than me, or the soldering works, was not quite good, I don't Know.
Regards

Hi papanillu,
very thanks for your posting...
The miniUSB Part is correctly connected (soldered) to the motherboard.
I have measured the parts on the board. All elements themes to be ok.
The D+ and D- Line goes to the OMAP CPU. Over two 36 resistors.
A third line goes with a 1.5kohm resistor to the D- line (between the 36ohm
resistors). Here is a diode from the 1.5K to a 24K resistor. these two are
parallel (at the top with the diode). I can not find an error, but it dosen't work.
Can you describe me what you exactly mean with 'metal draw' ???
Here i have made an Image of the mainboard an describe the relevant parts :
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Hope you or another have more info's or ideas to repair the USB Bus.
Best regards
Torsten
alias MrWeb

Hello.
My english is quite limited so I will try to do my best to explain what I mean
for "metal draws"
these are the "wires drawed" on the motherboard. These used to carry electricity from one component to other, which are drawed on the "Printed" circuit board.
Have you tested continuity?, from the usb pins, to the rest of the components you describe here?
When I resoldered mine, I had to do it twice.
Hope this helps.

Thank you for your answer.
Yes, i have tested all electrical connections from the external miniUSB Pins
to the Mainboard Components. All connections are right *bad*
So, the problem is elsewhere, but i don't know where.
Regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb

Hello,
I changed my miniusb connector yesterday, and,......
It' doesn't work at all.
I explain.
when I plug the usb cable directly, nothing happens, if I aplly pressure to the cable, (whith one finger) it works, so I think the problem is in the soldering of one of the tracks. By the fact if presure is applied, the metal parts touch themselves.
So I think the solution will be,.......
reopen again my qtek, (it will be fourth time) and use a needle to maintain the pins attached to the track while aplying the solder.
Hope this time works, and maybe it should also work for you.
Regards

Hi papanillu,
yes, it is not easy to solder correctly the mini usb plug.
I'm sildering since more than 20 years, so i have not problem with it.
My Tip, the pins left and right (+ and -) are big pad's, so, you need here
a biller solder pen. The middle pins need a very small solder pen. I use
a 0.8mm solder pen for the middle pins. Before you insert the Battery, check,
that ther is no connections between the pin's !
I have solved my Problem , yesterday. I think, the OMAP cpu deaktivates the
USB Pins, if the are connected, between, or to + or -, as security. This
deactivation holds after a Hardwarereset.
Yesterday i found the software USBSwitch, und with this, i resettet the usb
Interface. Now it works correctly and without Problems. Charge over USB
(without connect pin 4 And 5 of the miniUsb) works as well.
So, YES, all is fine ....
You only need, to resolder your miniUSB Plug, and all works for you too ....
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb

Hi
Finally, it works also for me.
I did as I said before, pressing with a needle, while aplying the soldering.
I use a 0'6 solder I found some time ago, But soldering is a hobby for me, so sometimes, I have problems with very small items.
But now it's all working.
Regards

dead USB bus, with PICS now! Someone can HELP?

I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.

sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF U WANT TO THROW...PLEASE GIVE IT TO ME...I WILL USE IT AS A SPARE...

i dont think he literally means he will throw it away, i am sure he will sell it as spares if he cant fix it. I have a exec for spares, if you want the mptherboard to replace the broken usb connector, or try finding the universal service manual and take the thing apart and see if you can repair it yourself

sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say it is worth to open to see how big is damage. if is clean cut then it is easy to solder another usb connector. In the Wiki suppose to be a technical documentation which will sure help you. good luck

Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard ) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.

Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard : )) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.

Hi,
Judging from your pictures, I think your friend is wrong.
If you are a able to solder and get a very fine tip for the soldering iron, you may actually fix it (unless there is something else wrong).
First of all, you need a new Mini-USB connector. This is easier said then done. One way would be to sacrifice a cheap mp3-player.
Then you solder the case of the Mini-USB connector to your PCB. Instead of trying to solder the 4 USB-pins to the PCB connectors, use a very fine cable (like the ones used for MOD-Chips on consoles) to solder each pin to the respective resistor (use a multimeter to make sure you use the right ones).
Finaly use some hotglue to fix the USB-connector to your PCB with increased resistance.
Good luck!
Cheers,
vma

i second vma's opinion. being a electrical technician first i wud say out loud, by the picture very clearly:
THE AV TECHNICIAN IS WRONG, YOU DONT NEED A MOTHERBOARD. IT DOESNT LOOK BROKEN. YOU NEED TO GET HOLD OF A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN WHO WILL DO AS YOU SUGGEST
*you first need to clean off all the lead and make the usb area all clean. this way you will be sure which electric platings have been tempered. so that you will be more sure which usb pin need to be connected via wires, to the resulting end of the damaged plating.
*you need to get hold a mini-usb port as suggested, you can buy a cheap mp3 player or whatever. there is lots mini-usb ports available around. i suggest first you try an electronic appliance shop.
*and replace it firmly with the help of glue specially formulated for circuit board. you can buy these stuff in an electrical shop
*make sure to test there is proper connection, if you have replaced the platings with the use of wires to connect to the mini-usb pins. test with a ammeter.
GOOD LUCK
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todays AV-technicians are just part exchange guys!!! I don't know where you from but anyhow this damage can be sure fix. I suggest If you never have done such job then dont try to repair by self( Universal still one of the best PDA's on the market to screw it up) Find a guy which has experience (even it cost you little money) and those guys also know where to get new USB connectors.

You can buy a new mini usb from here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110215701767
I got one the other day. Very fine soldering needed as mentioned above.

By god that's been butchered! I guess your tv engineer friend had a go at it... and by the looks of it did more bad than good. Ok here's what you need to do.
1: Get a new mini usb socket
2: clean up that whole area to get rid of all the solder spatter clean it by using a soldering iron / desolder tool on any shorts and a small flat blade screwdriver to "pick off" and solder spatter.
3:solder 5 small (by small I mean 0.5mm pvc insulated solid core) wires to the connector you bought in step 1 approx 2" long for each.
4: Solder the connector to the board by the 4 side lugs.
5: Solder each wire to it's correct test point (shown in the pictures but the gold coloured circle - you can clearly see which goes to where) you may have to scratch off the laquer on the PCB with a small flat blade screwriver first. Also don't forget to tin each testpoint and the end of each wire first... and for that matter the same goes for the connector end where you soldered the wires to.

am i right?

>>
Draw it out again cant understand it haha
Just got spares and repairs 02 xda exec with snapped off mini usb was thinking of doing myself but no has piccy's off what to do
Email me on
[email protected]

Athena JTAG pins

Hi.
I have done a little research about JATG pins trying to find a way to revive my dead X7500. I know it is difficult and that (possibly) a X7500 board needs to be disassembled but i wonder if it would be somehow easier to be done with X7500.
For example i saw an eten motherboard where jtag pins were easily located.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss354/son_hui/JTAGroverorsio.jpg
But i also saw the exec striped motherboard.....
Anyway.. what i want to say is that an effort to find the jtag pins would help many devices to become functional again.
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Well, there is a debug connector on the athena. More information about the debug connector can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2512981&postcount=12
You can see the connector on the right of the motherboard. Now i'm trying to find a way to connect my wiggler clone cable to the debug connector. The connector pins are too small to work with my soldering iron...is any other way to get connected?
That's the cable i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206464946#ebayphotohosting
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?

Hi nicktgr15,
maybe you'll need a smaller solder iron
Serious, there's no other way than to solder some thin wires to the debug pads.
Maybe you'll find some bigger contacts nearby, that belong to the same connection.
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you'll need GND too!
As your adaptor is a buffered one, you should sort out the VCC pad on the debug connector also. This voltage is needed to power up the buffer IC on your adaptor.
P.S.: the biggest problem would be to rewrite something into Athena's flash chip. As far as i know this is a G4-DoC from MSystems and there's no JTAG solution for this part .
Anyway, good luck for your experiments!
scholbert

Hi Scholbert
Thanks for the reply. I know that this will be the hard part as i have read your adventures with universal but for the moment i just want to connect it.
I'll get a thinner tip for my soldering iron and give it a try. Unfortunately the pins around the debug port are not helping
I'll post my results here.
Regards
Nick

I have a similar problem could possibly sealed the processor and find jtag contacts in this way.

Just out of interest: I am used to JTAG flashing on satellite receivers (see my signature).
The pictured JTAG interface looks pretty much like the ones I often use. Regarding the power, mine use a battery to power them up or I can solder a DCC connection. I think that is safer than to get the power from the actual device.
The other thing is: it is not enough to just get the physical connection to the JTAG pins. One need to put the processor of the device in JTAG mode and then control the flash chip through this CPU.
Either you have a flash utility for the JTAG interface, or it will be completly useless.
I might me missing such a tool, in which case I would love to have a link to download it (don't need it, but just in case).
Cheers,
vma