Database Users

Having problems with your screen yet?

I'm a T-Mobile rep and my G1 screen died after about ten days of moderate use. I was at the store doing some web browsing when the screen stopped responding to touch. Closed the keyboard and opened again and the phone froze. Hard reset and phone started up, slip open keyboard and screen went black. Hard reset again, no dice. Tried recovery mode, nothing. Called my phone and it rings and I can answer.
I'm guessing ribbon cable. Played about sliding the keyboard half way in and out, etc and occasionally screen backlight would show for a moment. Investigating further, sliding mechanism had pushed back the "s" ribbon cable causing the problems. The ribbon cable was actually folded back. There is very tight tolerance there. This is probably the reason for our other two G1's returned to our store for screen problems. This is a serious design flaw that will affect many G1's over time. The sliding mechanism will catch the lip of the ribbon.
The good news is that my replacement has a fix to the problem. T-Mobile and HTC has apparently quietly made a revision to the design. My new G1 has some teflon tape running from far left side of the slide channel all the way to ribbon cable. This helps prevent the slide mechanism from catching on the lip of ribbon. Checked co-workers with older G1's and they didn't have the longer piece of tape. Sold one today to customer, checked in the slide channel and bingo, longer teflon tape.
Just a heads up guys. The boxes don't have date stamps like most of our phones so you won't know if it has the fix until you open it.

Kind of a bummer since I got mine on ebay soon after it came out. Is this something I could fix myself by opening it up or do you need an "expert" to do it?

You should be able to be proactive before damage has been done. With phone upside down and keyboard open and facing you look in the groove that the slide mechanism goes. On the side facing you, you will see where the ribbon cable attaches to the wall. It will probably have 1/2" or less of a white teflon tape at that point. On the revised G1, that white tape runs from the ribbon all the way to the edge of the screen width. Basically the new tape is half the screen width wide.
You could probably use a teflon or other slick surfaced tape to cover the area the sliding mechanism tracks. That yellow cellophane-like tape that comes with temp sensors for computer components would probably work good as it is stiff enough to wiggle it where it needs to go without having to take screen apart.
I would take pics but my camera has shot craps.

This?

No, hold phone with screen facing you and upside down so usb port it at top. Open screen. Look down at screen assembly where it looks hollow or a channel. Do you see the slide hinge assembly and ribbon cable now.

Oh like under here? I added a little padding to fix the creek so I think I'm fine.

Wish I had a pic. Take that picture you just posted. Now rotate phone 90 degrees counter-clockwise. USB should be on top. Now tip the phone towards you. You are now looking at bottom of phone, you should be looking directly at the charge port. Look directly left, you'll be looking at bottom edge of the slide out screen, right. Do you see how the bottom of the screen looks hollow, about 1/2" deep channel, inside is the hinge and ribbon cable. Sorry to confuse.

DING DING DING!!! We have a winner!!! Thanks for the picture so others will know what I'm talking about.
Do you see where the ribbon cable is adhered to the inner wall, that is the weak point.

Well I see like a piece of metal with the ribbon sliding back and forth as you open it.

When you barely start to open it you'll see how that "piece of metal" slides over where the ribbon cable affixes. There is a tight clearance there. What can happen is that "piece of metal" starts to get hung up on the edge of the ribbon, eventually peeling the ribbon back. They fixed the problem by placing a tape over where the "piece of metal" tracks thus removing the edge to get snagged on. I suck at explaining things.

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Great picture as it shows the ribbon cable in question. The area in question is where the cable is affixed on the right side as viewed in the above photo.

Hey thanks for the heads up (and the repeated instructions). I inserted a piece of electrical tape over the metal part so it will move more smoothly over.

Hi there i was just wondering what if the damage has already been done. Unfourtunatly the ribbon cable on mine has already been damaged. Now i took it to a repair shop and he said he could not find the part anywhere. I'm wonder can i tape up the old cable and get it to work... or where can i find a new one. Btw I am in Canada i bought the phone off some person so i do not have any warranty. thanks for anyhelp in advance

I've never seen this issue before at my store. I'm sure it could happen but I don't really see this as a huge issue, yet. Our store displays get abused so much and constantly slide open and closed and they show no signs of problems. I will def. keep an eye out for this issue.

--------bump.

How do I tell if I have the tape? What color is it?
P.S. I am looking in the right spot so don't tell me where to look

can someone post a picture of the white teflon tape on the original G1 and the revised G1. Here is a picture of my phone, from what I read I am guessing I have the old phone prior to the fix, but I am not sure...

Two more pictures, I guess this is the revised version with the long tape.
Edit: just links to the jpegs: first, second.

[Jan 15] [Q] USB Charge Data Port connection is finicky. Please help.

Today the phone fell from the desk with the charger cable plugged into the phone. Now it won't charge/make a connection unless the USB cable is forced to plug in at a downward angle:
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If the plug is in any other way, the phone will not recognize it.
This is bloody annoying!!! I can't charge the phone anymore unless the cable is resting on something and I can no longer listen to music in my car (since the road vibrations cause the plug to move around).
So my questions are:
Is there a way to fix this by way of opening it up and soldering?
Is there a way to replace the USB port?
I'm tempted to just ghetto rig it by creating a "lift" within the port by way of a small amount of Gorilla Glue (or similar resin)...but that seems 'temporary' to me.
So here's to hoping that someone else here has had this issue (besides stupid ol me) and happens to have a wonderful solution for this issue. Also, if it matters, I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area. So if you know someone that does this kind of phone repair, please recommend them me. Thanks!

I'll assume you ruled out the actual cable?
Just by experience with other hardware, I'd say either something is bent/broke or the solder joints opened up (most likely this, and I hope it's not surface mount...). No idea how easy/hard it is to open up a HD2, as I've been lucky enough to not have to , but once that's done, should be easy enough to inspect the connector, depending on electronics skills.

i checked the phone with 3 different cables. same symptoms.
yeah...i'm guessing (hoping) it needs a resoldering job. i suppose i should start looking for pictures of the guts.

I have exactly this as well. No desire to open my HD2 up so I've just taken to lying my wallet down next to it when I charge, and laying the wire over it. It's really annoying to have to do, though.

Hello there. Sad to hear that you have got this problem. There is nothing you can do to fix it, yourself. I had this problem for about 2 months ago, when my HD2 suddenly had the same problem, and would only charge when the usb cable was forced in a definite way. The situation is, that the micro-usb "house", solved to the mainboard, is BROKEN from the soldering. Some of the pins, is broken off, and when you push the usb cable upwards, the pins will again make a connection with the mainboard, but when you slip, it will loose the connection...
I send mine in for a repair, but HTC said that it was my own fault. They would not make a repair, unless I paid for a new mainboard. You can see picture from the repair center:
Or see my other thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=814053.
So what can you do now?
You can open up your HD2, to see the broken traces from usb housing, following this guide: http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked - But you will quickly realize that it's IMPOSSIBLE to solder the pins. It's VERY small, and it's not only metal pins, but also some kind of micro wires, 5 pieces, and you can't just solder them...
The disassemble of HD2 it's not that hard, you will though need to buy some tools.
To get your HD2 working again: Get a new main board. From where? Good question. I looked at ebay, and searched for a very loooong, for a mainboard, but it's impossible to buy one, unless you find a hd2 on ebay with a broken screen, and the mainboard is working, for some small amounts, and change the mainboard yourself.
I waited for about 1 month for a mainboard, but couldn't find one. So i simply bought a secondhand HD2, for a small amount..
I hope this helps to clear up some things. Just PM if you have some questions.

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu... that's a downer.
I finally got this phone all perfect with the NAND Android.
Sigh... bummer that HTC had to make the USB housing irreplaceable.
That photo is helpful. That's out of my league. I've never soldered anything with that small of a footprint.
I'm looking for broken phones on eBay. Looks like they are going for 100 bones.
I think I'm going to try this one cell repair guy in town next week. Apparently he's a soldering virtuoso.
If that doesn't work, I guess I will have to replace the mainboard with one from eBay and hope that it doesn't have the same symptom I'm trying to rid of.
I will let you know if the repair guy has steady magic hands or not.
Truly truly frustrating...

Ah, surface mount =\ and the one in that pic actually lifted the pads themselves. If yours is anything like that pic, which I'll assume it's close, it looks like it should be possible to bridge the broken connection, but it will require a good quality temp-controlled soldering iron, fine tip, small wire, and excellent soldering skills. If the guy can hand-solder fine-pitch surface mount chips, this shouldn't be a problem.
The "fixed" connections would work, but wouldn't be 100% the strength of original. Some epoxy encompassing the connections and whole rear-end of the jack should strengthen it back up a bit.

So has anyone managed to fix this yet? Also, is there anything out there that can charge an extended battery without it having to be in the phone?

!!!SUCCESS!!!
SUCCESS!!!!*
the people i brought my phone too was able to fix it. it took a couple weeks for them to get their hands on a new USB port (apparently i destroyed it beyond repair). once they got a new one, it was soldered on.
*one slight niggle though: it takes 30 secs to transfer 100MB of data to the phone.
they "warned" me that they were able to to solder one of the pins, so data transfer may not be possible. so maybe the port is now acting as 'USB 1.0'. thankfully the only time i do data transfer is when i put MP3s and videos on it. and the occasional ROM/NAND flashing (which i don't do anymore since Cotulla/DFT's NAND Desire flash).
so besides that's little set back, i can charge/connect my phone without having to worry about losing connection to my computer or car.
but to be on the safe side, i no longer charge my phone via USB. i have purchased an external battery charger along with an extra battery. its been pretty sweet.

I've just see this post, for a couple of bucks, I think its' 70 or so u can get a charging mat, that will replace the usb charging feature. Just an idea.

Congrats! nick2k Good to know that it's doable. By the way it looks more like a rust on the image. What these guys had to say about the probable cause of that?

pk2_76 said:
u can get a charging mat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pk2_76; Mats are using dongles, connected to a phone by the very same micro USB port. While it might reduce the number of plug/unplug events, which wearing off the connector, the dongle itself is quite bulky to keep on all the time, and also might interfere with the holsters and skins. I'm still hoping for a special back cover rumored to be available from HTC with a mat-like charging accessory.

Well I just got one of the mains chargers off ebay, waiting for it to arrive. My port's getting worse so I need it sooner rather than later. Word of warning I guess, treat the connection with care!

[Tutorial] Fix looseness from microUSB port

A while ago I noticed that my micro USB cable does not fit well on my U8800 and when I picked up my phone the cable the cable always fall out without doing any force. After reading various sites, to decide what would be the best way and after I did it I'm now leaving here how to solve this problem. In my case it was dust and lint that accumulated because of taking the phone in pocket, etc..
Tutorial
You should use a toothpick, previously buffed with a fine sandpaper like the image below. You can use other objects, but with the toothpick you can do it without turning off the phone because it isn't a electrical conductor and you can also sharpen the tip very easily.
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You should clean the area paint in blue below:
After this you should give special attention to areas in microusb port marked in red below which is where bolts fits and attach the cable to the port. You should try to clean as much as possible the dust that has entrenched there.
In my case after 5 minutes of hard work this was the result:
Picture missing!!! A lot of dust!
I used the lamp on my bedside table for a better look inside the door. Those black things are dust that came out of there now do not have any slack in the port works at 100% and I can move the phone without any problem.
How to fix female conector by flipswitch5point
flipswitch5point said:
Tried this, didn't get any dust :/ but what when I was cleaning it I saw the two little holes in the female side of the port that the clips for the male end are supposed to latch in. Turns out my male end was suffering from... impotence? Lol. I took a needle and adjusted the clips on the cable and it holds fine now. Just posting this for anyone else who's suffering looseness not caused by dust.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thank for the guide, will try it on my old phone.
:cyclops:

Hmm i see not much dust in my Blade port, but it's loose too. Will try this, thx.

Could this be the reason my phone is charging only if I connect the usb cable at a very certain angle (have to use couple of books to arrange this setting)...

skliarie said:
Could this be the reason my phone is charging only if I connect the usb cable at a very certain angle (have to use couple of books to arrange this setting)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be, the other reason might be, that your connector is broken at some point.
Try the method above, if it doesn't work i'd contact the support if you still have warranty.

skliarie said:
Could this be the reason my phone is charging only if I connect the usb cable at a very certain angle (have to use couple of books to arrange this setting)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suspect that the solder connection from the socket to the PCB is broken.

Thanks!!
Inviato dal mio HTC EVO 3D X515m usando Tapatalk

thanks for this.

Hey I did this too but with a golden guitar string and I didn't get a shock.

Awesome! mine had so much dirt it was disgusting lmao works like new thanks

skliarie said:
Could this be the reason my phone is charging only if I connect the usb cable at a very certain angle (have to use couple of books to arrange this setting)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be that your USB cable is bad.

Thanks so much, worked

Thanks my Desire was barely charging now it holds better but still alittle eiffy

really helpful! thanks dude.

alcohol
One thing that helps to is to have a magnifying lens or pocket loop to closely inspect the connector.
It comes in handy if you are "middle age" and the bifocals don't give you a clear enough picture :cyclops:
On my Galaxy note, last spring, I was noticing an unusual problem of it would either "self connect" with
nothing actually connected (it would make the connect-disconnect sound). Upon inspection of the port
on the device, I noticed what appeared to be a greenish-blue substance migrating from the right most
pins, to the middle pins in an arch pattern. After powering down the phone, pulling the battery, I took a
can of dust off, sprayed the connector, then using a lint free cloth, dabbed in alcohol, I wiped down the
entire inside area of the usb port. After cleaning, I hit it again with the canned air for good measure.
After 2-3 minutes, popped the battery back in, and fired it up. Haven't had any more problems since.

THanks for this! i tried it on my OG Evo 4G works like a charm!

I had this problem aswell on my HTC Desire HD
Thanks for telling us about this. My charger stays in now without popping out on its own.

Took a stanley knife to a toothpick and rummaged around in the usb connector of my phone, it feels a little better, so thanks!

I use a sewing needle on my girlfriends phone when the port gets full of lint. I make sure to take the battery out, not sure if its necessary, but better safe than sorry.

If your cable (still) falls out, bite slightly on the plug.
You're welcome.
:cyclops: icanhaznewspost?

Any ZE551KL disassembly videos or photos?

I was hoping to find any information at all that might suggest that the ZE551ML screen can be used on the ZE551KL. I haven't wanted to disassemble my phone, in case I decide to opt for an official screen replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't found any disassembly guides or photographs or videos yet.
Thanks!

psi_star_psi said:
I was hoping to find any information at all that might suggest that the ZE551ML screen can be used on the ZE551KL. I haven't wanted to disassemble my phone, in case I decide to opt for an official screen replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't found any disassembly guides or photographs or videos yet.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I started my repair of the ZE551KL today. After you remove the user replaceable battery and the screws that allow you to take off the plastic shell, it appears quite different than the inside of the ZE551ML as seen in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=5X0dkhKNqm4
There's a coaxial cable in the same spot as it is in the ZE551ML, and two ribbons pulled through the top portion of the motherboard which are presumably the display cables.
But how one would go about removing the mother board to gain access to the display assembly and metal backing plate I have no idea. I suppose I have no choice but to poke and prod at it a bit, same goes with removing the ribbons before I attempt to remove the motherboard. Is there even a separate daughterboard at the bottom of the phone like the ZE551ML?
Another thing I can already see being an issue is that the display seems to be fused to the frame of the phone with something incredibly strong. They appear to be just one solid piece of metal/plastic. I guess I'll cross that bridge if I ever get to it.
Attached image: Phone with broken display assembly still attached, next to replacement display assembly sitting face down.
The replacement part that I bought: ebay.com/itm/272208004464 (NEW ASUS ZenFone 2 Laser 5.5 ZE551KL LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly) by seller: wwon_one
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OK, that ended up being pretty easy. There's no difficult battery removal like with the ZE551ML, the motherboard is one solid unit, and the top speaker does not need to be detached and glued back into place. Also, the coaxial cable disconnects with a user friendly plug made for human fingers, although my memory is fuzzy on whether you actually need to disconnect it at all, but that will all be self evident as you take the phone apart.
There motherboard is one solid unit with an L shaped arm extending towards the bottom of the phone. It's merely snapped in place with a few plastic tabs that are stretched outward or pushed inward to release the motherboard from the the frame below.
The coaxial cable's connections are NOT removed at the positions I have highlighted, instead there is a user friendly plug that you can almost make out in the photo which resides to the left of the bottom (non-removable) coxial connection point I previously pointed out in the diagram. To reiterate, I'm not sure whether the coxial connection requires manipulation or if it just sort of pops in and out of place on it's own as you take the phone apart. Unlike the ZE551ML, the top speaker will remain attached and doesn't need to be refastened with adhesive.
At the bottom left of the phone there is a soft, black rectangular rubber module which disconnects that is either the speaker or the vibration motor. At any rate, it's easy to reconnect when you reassemble the phone. Pulling the two display cables through the bottom of the motherboard is essentially the same as you'll see in a ZE551ML repair video. Prior to that, disconnecting the old display ribbons took a surprising amount of force, but since they are part of the broken part of the phone you are replacing, there isn't much to lose.
The most challenging part of the repair is separating your old broken screen and display assembly from the frame of the phone without breaking that thin, plastic frame. You'll need something that can function as a plastic spudger tool to pry the screen free and something to apply heat to the edges of the phone to make that possible in the first place. I used a hair dryer that was disappointingly hot at maximum heat. As a result, I probably used excessive force and created a small break in the thin plastic frame of the phone in the process of removing the old screen, but it's really no worse for the wear. Contributing to my minor error was the fact that I used a plastic cake knife that I imagine had a thicker taper and larger initial contact point than the ideal plastic prying tool.
In order to secure the new display assembly in place, you'll want to buy double sided adhesive tape made for phone repair as suggested in the youtube video for repairing the ZE551ML. From the research I did, it seems well worth the 6 to 10 dollars instead of trying to use super glue or the existing adhesive left behind (what's left behind won't be strong enough to seat the display assembly perfectly, which is supposedly what you need for the phone to survive minor falls in the future, as well as perhaps for the touchscreen to function perfectly.)

Here is a partial disassembly video I found.
It's actually more like a motherboard teardown, but you can follow it up to 1:20. After that, peel away the top-left display cable. Then heat up the edges of the screen from the front side, while using a tool to pry the glass screen from the plastic housing.

Modding the DirectStylus slot back into the Shield K1

My first post on xda-devs after a long time away.
So as you might have guessed by the title, I own the Nvidia Shield K1. Bought it used a few weeks back and wanted the stylus. Since it's apparently made from Unobtainium, that took a few weeks.
After receiving it and opening my Shield K1 (can be done using a fingernail, I was pleasantly suprised) I found the original Stylus slot still in there. It seems Nvidia only changed the exterior Mold and closed the Stylus Slot that way.
I'll attach a few pictures that shows the process and final look. The pen fits snugly inside and doesn't fall out (even if I run carrying the tablet in my hand).
The only thing is: The tablet doesn't detect the removal of the stylus. That is somewhat expected but comparing pictures from iFixit with my tablet, I can't find the sensor that's supposed to be in the original Shield Tablet. If someone owns the original Pyro and has opened / wants to open it, could you please send me detailed pictures of the stylus slot? If you know where the sensor is, even better. Perfect would be if you could send me logs of the events that are triggered on stylus removal (should be obtainable via adb / adb shell / logcat, no root needed).
Enough talk, time for pictures.
Open the tablet starting from the MicroSD slot (a credit card, fingernail or something like that works great)
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File the metal under the cable down so you have enough slack and glue it down. In the original Shield it's done with tape, I used some crazy glue.
Remove some material from the back cover. I used some small files to do all this. Doesn't take much effort since it's all plastic.
Final Result of my mod. Works great. The Stylus is held firmly in there and I can remove it easily
Thanks in advance for any feedback on this

Ah, And after reviewing other pictures I think I found the stylus sensor on this picture https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/mcKFJDJGtYNlZ5gx.huge
Right beside the opening at the top next to the speaker. Don't have any Idea how it's connected. If someone has pictures of that (what ribbon cable is it using, where on the mainboard does it connect to).
I'm set on getting this feature modded into my K1

Nice, that's clean!

Thanks for the pics and guide. My new nvidia shield k1 should be arriving next week, and this will probably be one of the first things I do.

I found a cover from an original Shield on eBay, so I won't have to modify the cover. I just need to modify the housing for the stylus to fit. Did you just use files for the housing?

operative1 said:
Ah, And after reviewing other pictures I think I found the stylus sensor on this picture https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/mcKFJDJGtYNlZ5gx.huge
Right beside the opening at the top next to the speaker. Don't have any Idea how it's connected. If someone has pictures of that (what ribbon cable is it using, where on the mainboard does it connect to).
I'm set on getting this feature modded into my K1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly, Nvidia left the connector and support circuitry off for the stylus sensor. If you are very patient, and proficient with a soldering iron you could swap the missing parts over from a dead original shield (I hate soldering 0402 components, and there are close to a dozen of them missing). The sensor connector and support circuitry is on the display side of the board. Looking at the picture you had attched, you see a black ribbon with writing on it in the lower left corner - that is the stylus detect harness.
Also, if you carefully remove the rubber/foam block in the corner near the stylus slot, you can very carefully pull the speaker ribbon off the plastic and re stick it down so that you can use Kaptan or scotch tape to hold down the speaker cable in the stylus slot without having to file underneath it.

neosenshi said:
Sadly, Nvidia left the connector and support circuitry off for the stylus sensor. If you are very patient, and proficient with a soldering iron you could swap the missing parts over from a dead original shield (I hate soldering 0402 components, and there are close to a dozen of them missing). The sensor connector and support circuitry is on the display side of the board. Looking at the picture you had attched, you see a black ribbon with writing on it in the lower left corner - that is the stylus detect harness..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am now the proud owner of a fully bricked original shield tablet thanks to ebay So yes, I know about the missing components. For the time being I transferred the mainboard and battery from my K1 to the original shield housing (for the stylus slot). Also missing on the k1 is the charge status LED right next to the USB port. The solderpads are there.
I don't know how you came up with "close to a dozen" but as far as I can tell by comparing both boards, there is the connector itself and 2 passives (probably resistors) missing. the other pads are unpopulated on the original shield and only used in case you have the LTE version (for simcard slot and mini-pci-e connector).

caseyatbt said:
I found a cover from an original Shield on eBay, so I won't have to modify the cover. I just need to modify the housing for the stylus to fit. Did you just use files for the housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, I did file the housing using some needle files.
As neosenshi said, you don't need to file the metal inside the housing, just tape it down with kapton tape or similar.

operative1 said:
I am now the proud owner of a fully bricked original shield tablet thanks to ebay So yes, I know about the missing components. For the time being I transferred the mainboard and battery from my K1 to the original shield housing (for the stylus slot). Also missing on the k1 is the charge status LED right next to the USB port. The solderpads are there.
I don't know how you came up with "close to a dozen" but as far as I can tell by comparing both boards, there is the connector itself and 2 passives (probably resistors) missing. the other pads are unpopulated on the original shield and only used in case you have the LTE version (for simcard slot and mini-pci-e connector).
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I'm also the proud owner of a dead unit from ebay. I bought my working unit from Swappa and simply filed the case. And you're right, I'm thinking of one of the LTE connectors. I didn't pull the board for my new unit completely out of the housing, just verified that the connector wasn't there, and saw empty solder pads for addition components.