Hi @ all,
at the first, sorry for my bad english.
On my wizard, the usb connector was detached. So i solder it new on the
mainboard, but i can not connect via usb. I think there is a another part
demanged too.
I have found this site : http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~HTC_Wizard-511~area~repairs~item~REP%2DUSBCON01~name~HTC+Wizard+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
Up to five parts can be demanged. But i don't know which parts. Have anyone
some informations about this ???
I hope someone can give me a tip and can help me.
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
They say, traces can be damaged, (not parts), traces are the metal draws wich are on the motherboard.
I have a similar problem. but I now, (if I apply pressure to the usb plug) it works, so I'm looking for an spare part to get mine fixed.
Maybe you Have the same problem than me, or the soldering works, was not quite good, I don't Know.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
very thanks for your posting...
The miniUSB Part is correctly connected (soldered) to the motherboard.
I have measured the parts on the board. All elements themes to be ok.
The D+ and D- Line goes to the OMAP CPU. Over two 36 resistors.
A third line goes with a 1.5kohm resistor to the D- line (between the 36ohm
resistors). Here is a diode from the 1.5K to a 24K resistor. these two are
parallel (at the top with the diode). I can not find an error, but it dosen't work.
Can you describe me what you exactly mean with 'metal draw' ???
Here i have made an Image of the mainboard an describe the relevant parts :
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Hope you or another have more info's or ideas to repair the USB Bus.
Best regards
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello.
My english is quite limited so I will try to do my best to explain what I mean
for "metal draws"
these are the "wires drawed" on the motherboard. These used to carry electricity from one component to other, which are drawed on the "Printed" circuit board.
Have you tested continuity?, from the usb pins, to the rest of the components you describe here?
When I resoldered mine, I had to do it twice.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your answer.
Yes, i have tested all electrical connections from the external miniUSB Pins
to the Mainboard Components. All connections are right *bad*
So, the problem is elsewhere, but i don't know where.
Regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
I changed my miniusb connector yesterday, and,......
It' doesn't work at all.
I explain.
when I plug the usb cable directly, nothing happens, if I aplly pressure to the cable, (whith one finger) it works, so I think the problem is in the soldering of one of the tracks. By the fact if presure is applied, the metal parts touch themselves.
So I think the solution will be,.......
reopen again my qtek, (it will be fourth time) and use a needle to maintain the pins attached to the track while aplying the solder.
Hope this time works, and maybe it should also work for you.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
yes, it is not easy to solder correctly the mini usb plug.
I'm sildering since more than 20 years, so i have not problem with it.
My Tip, the pins left and right (+ and -) are big pad's, so, you need here
a biller solder pen. The middle pins need a very small solder pen. I use
a 0.8mm solder pen for the middle pins. Before you insert the Battery, check,
that ther is no connections between the pin's !
I have solved my Problem , yesterday. I think, the OMAP cpu deaktivates the
USB Pins, if the are connected, between, or to + or -, as security. This
deactivation holds after a Hardwarereset.
Yesterday i found the software USBSwitch, und with this, i resettet the usb
Interface. Now it works correctly and without Problems. Charge over USB
(without connect pin 4 And 5 of the miniUsb) works as well.
So, YES, all is fine ....
You only need, to resolder your miniUSB Plug, and all works for you too ....
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hi
Finally, it works also for me.
I did as I said before, pressing with a needle, while aplying the soldering.
I use a 0'6 solder I found some time ago, But soldering is a hobby for me, so sometimes, I have problems with very small items.
But now it's all working.
Regards
Related
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IF U WANT TO THROW...PLEASE GIVE IT TO ME...I WILL USE IT AS A SPARE...
i dont think he literally means he will throw it away, i am sure he will sell it as spares if he cant fix it. I have a exec for spares, if you want the mptherboard to replace the broken usb connector, or try finding the universal service manual and take the thing apart and see if you can repair it yourself
sanderh said:
I own a Universal for some time now and am happy with it. Last week my USB connection on the universal 'broke'. Now the USB connector is inside the Universal and I can hear it when I rumble my Universal. Can I throw awat my Universal now or is the some workaround to open my Universal myself and solder the USB bus? I do not have official guarantee anymore.
ps. Sorry for my bad English.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say it is worth to open to see how big is damage. if is clean cut then it is easy to solder another usb connector. In the Wiki suppose to be a technical documentation which will sure help you. good luck
Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard ) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.
Ok, I ve opened my Universal (wasn t that hard : )) and posted some pictures about the status of the USB port and motherboard.
I ve also went to a local AV-technician and the guy told me (after he tried some things) that it is not possible to fix it anymore. He said that IF I want it fixed, I will need a complete new motherboard. So I m a bit dissapointed now. But maybe you guys here can give me some more input if maybe there is still a way to fix it in a cheap way.....
Just a side-note: When holding the USB port onto the motherboard and putting a AC-adapter in it, I DO get a red led on the Universal. But he does not switch on or something.
Thanks for all input.
Hi,
Judging from your pictures, I think your friend is wrong.
If you are a able to solder and get a very fine tip for the soldering iron, you may actually fix it (unless there is something else wrong).
First of all, you need a new Mini-USB connector. This is easier said then done. One way would be to sacrifice a cheap mp3-player.
Then you solder the case of the Mini-USB connector to your PCB. Instead of trying to solder the 4 USB-pins to the PCB connectors, use a very fine cable (like the ones used for MOD-Chips on consoles) to solder each pin to the respective resistor (use a multimeter to make sure you use the right ones).
Finaly use some hotglue to fix the USB-connector to your PCB with increased resistance.
Good luck!
Cheers,
vma
i second vma's opinion. being a electrical technician first i wud say out loud, by the picture very clearly:
THE AV TECHNICIAN IS WRONG, YOU DONT NEED A MOTHERBOARD. IT DOESNT LOOK BROKEN. YOU NEED TO GET HOLD OF A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN WHO WILL DO AS YOU SUGGEST
*you first need to clean off all the lead and make the usb area all clean. this way you will be sure which electric platings have been tempered. so that you will be more sure which usb pin need to be connected via wires, to the resulting end of the damaged plating.
*you need to get hold a mini-usb port as suggested, you can buy a cheap mp3 player or whatever. there is lots mini-usb ports available around. i suggest first you try an electronic appliance shop.
*and replace it firmly with the help of glue specially formulated for circuit board. you can buy these stuff in an electrical shop
*make sure to test there is proper connection, if you have replaced the platings with the use of wires to connect to the mini-usb pins. test with a ammeter.
GOOD LUCK
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todays AV-technicians are just part exchange guys!!! I don't know where you from but anyhow this damage can be sure fix. I suggest If you never have done such job then dont try to repair by self( Universal still one of the best PDA's on the market to screw it up) Find a guy which has experience (even it cost you little money) and those guys also know where to get new USB connectors.
You can buy a new mini usb from here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110215701767
I got one the other day. Very fine soldering needed as mentioned above.
By god that's been butchered! I guess your tv engineer friend had a go at it... and by the looks of it did more bad than good. Ok here's what you need to do.
1: Get a new mini usb socket
2: clean up that whole area to get rid of all the solder spatter clean it by using a soldering iron / desolder tool on any shorts and a small flat blade screwdriver to "pick off" and solder spatter.
3:solder 5 small (by small I mean 0.5mm pvc insulated solid core) wires to the connector you bought in step 1 approx 2" long for each.
4: Solder the connector to the board by the 4 side lugs.
5: Solder each wire to it's correct test point (shown in the pictures but the gold coloured circle - you can clearly see which goes to where) you may have to scratch off the laquer on the PCB with a small flat blade screwriver first. Also don't forget to tin each testpoint and the end of each wire first... and for that matter the same goes for the connector end where you soldered the wires to.
am i right?
>>
Draw it out again cant understand it haha
Just got spares and repairs 02 xda exec with snapped off mini usb was thinking of doing myself but no has piccy's off what to do
Email me on
[email protected]
Hi.
I have done a little research about JATG pins trying to find a way to revive my dead X7500. I know it is difficult and that (possibly) a X7500 board needs to be disassembled but i wonder if it would be somehow easier to be done with X7500.
For example i saw an eten motherboard where jtag pins were easily located.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss354/son_hui/JTAGroverorsio.jpg
But i also saw the exec striped motherboard.....
Anyway.. what i want to say is that an effort to find the jtag pins would help many devices to become functional again.
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Well, there is a debug connector on the athena. More information about the debug connector can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2512981&postcount=12
You can see the connector on the right of the motherboard. Now i'm trying to find a way to connect my wiggler clone cable to the debug connector. The connector pins are too small to work with my soldering iron...is any other way to get connected?
That's the cable i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206464946#ebayphotohosting
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Hi nicktgr15,
maybe you'll need a smaller solder iron
Serious, there's no other way than to solder some thin wires to the debug pads.
Maybe you'll find some bigger contacts nearby, that belong to the same connection.
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you'll need GND too!
As your adaptor is a buffered one, you should sort out the VCC pad on the debug connector also. This voltage is needed to power up the buffer IC on your adaptor.
P.S.: the biggest problem would be to rewrite something into Athena's flash chip. As far as i know this is a G4-DoC from MSystems and there's no JTAG solution for this part .
Anyway, good luck for your experiments!
scholbert
Hi Scholbert
Thanks for the reply. I know that this will be the hard part as i have read your adventures with universal but for the moment i just want to connect it.
I'll get a thinner tip for my soldering iron and give it a try. Unfortunately the pins around the debug port are not helping
I'll post my results here.
Regards
Nick
I have a similar problem could possibly sealed the processor and find jtag contacts in this way.
Just out of interest: I am used to JTAG flashing on satellite receivers (see my signature).
The pictured JTAG interface looks pretty much like the ones I often use. Regarding the power, mine use a battery to power them up or I can solder a DCC connection. I think that is safer than to get the power from the actual device.
The other thing is: it is not enough to just get the physical connection to the JTAG pins. One need to put the processor of the device in JTAG mode and then control the flash chip through this CPU.
Either you have a flash utility for the JTAG interface, or it will be completly useless.
I might me missing such a tool, in which case I would love to have a link to download it (don't need it, but just in case).
Cheers,
vma
Hi,
I'm totaly confused about what I found on the main board of my HD2.
Now, Simple you think, if you look on google you find the pinout to be:
5 VCC +5 V
4 D− Data −
3 D+ Data +
2 Type A: connected to Ground
or
Type B: not connected
1 GND Black Signal Ground
Easy... Or????
My USB is broken from the PCB (looks like the coper on the pcb is not that thight to the bord. Well.. Since I did study electronocs, I should be able to fix it. I took my HD2 appart, but I found this:
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Now if you look at the connections, Pin 1 is clear, Pin 2 is connected Pin 5 is also clear. Pin 4 can be through an other layer, so that is also explanable.
BUT: Pin 3 ? Is that one not connected? Does it just use ground instead of data-?
Who can give some answers? I don't understand.
Thanks
Hi again,
Ok, I know it should be connected somewhere, but I can not find out where I can connect it. I hope someone knows where I can find a coper line or component which should be connected to pin 3.
I now heve all connected except pin3 which makes USB useless, but the charging works.
There is one more question, does anyone know where I could get a new mainboard for this phone and what the price is?
Hi,did U solve this?i have problem with microusb too...
pinouts
hope the pic help the to your problem.
be careful when soldering because the small pives will come apart if you atemot to solder with soldering iron.
best will be bga blow gun and positioning small wire near the components still be very careful otherwise you will not have what to fix.
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
kruithofm said:
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you joking? Really dumped it?
Very big mistake!
You wasted a totally revivable/repairable hd2
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
kruithofm said:
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in buying it!
Think about for a fair price and PM me, if interested!
I'm not selling.. sorry...
What?
I've got a second Samsung Galaxy S which cannot get connected
to any device anymore. Tried several cables, several laptops, but
seems the USB connector is DEAD. I can get into DOWNLOAD and
in CWM, but there's no possibility to Odin my phone with the proper
Firmware, so I have to replace my connector.
Please, if you want to troll me (or thread), go ahead,
it just doesn’t bother me at all, I just want to help
What do I need?
Samsung Galaxy S
USB connector
Screwdrivers
Soldering apparatus
Enough light
A handy hand
Ehm? This is not complete?
Well, I'm not a star in soldering, so hereby I want to let see how
to achieve the replacement by opening the unit, take of plastics
things etc.
What I want to ask you guys is to help me giving tips how to
solder the USB connector on the proper way.
How-to
Take your phone with you:
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Open all the screws and save them in bag or box:
Open carefully the unit with a srewdriver or plastic thing (all around):
Take off the unit:
Remove the cable:
Open the connector:
Open this connector too:
Also open this one:
Take off the printboard:
Open the connector:
Take off the unit:
So now I need to replace the old with the new one:
So who has some good advise to solder this?
Then I can make a start this afternoon
Will arrange myself a mini solder thing tomorrow!
With some of your basic tool, I think it's impossible. You will need this tool or something like it:
btw, I want to replace bezel, I can take off the printboard, but I don't know how to take off old bezel. Can you show me?
P.S: sorry for my bad English.
Basic tool with fine soldering head is fine I guess.
Are the new connectors pins prepared with solder? Then it should not be hard to resolder it after removing the old one, just make sure to use enough flux.
Soldering
You should be able to do this with basic tools! But you will need some solder wick / desoldering braid!
First, flood the connections with solder to release the connector. Then use the braid to remove the solder from the pads.
Alternatively you can cut the pins and remove them after the body of the connector has been removed (by heating each side and then gently lifting it away from the board).
Next, fit the new connector and either tape it in position or solder the tabs on the side to prevent it moving.
Next, flood the connections with solder (you will end up with solder between the pins - don't worry).
Finally, use the braid to remove excess solder.
You should find that there is enough solder remaining between the connector and PCB!
I have achieved this with a 56-pin SMT chip but I have a desoldering station (for through-hole connections, not SMT) which I used instead of the braid. It worked first time.
HTH.
Hey i just found this old thread and i also have a spare galaxy s that needs a micro usb port soldering on...did anyone manage this ?
n7300 and i9100 micro usb port replacement
I have a chinese phone n7300 with a dead usb port, I used solder wick desoldered the pin 4 pin on the side and used more solder for the 7 pin on the pcb. I managed to take the connector off. However, I cannot find the same connect online. except alibaba, which the minium quantity is 1000pc.
Would anybody tell me where I can get the connector.(it is the same as the one in pictures above for i900)
Search ebay
On how to solder this il tell you dont try if your a beginner at soldering there are copper pads under the pins of the usb and you can easily rip them off my suggestion is find a computer repair shop that repairs tvs or motherboards they will have the gear and ask them if they could solder this for you its usually cheap just bring them the phones motherboard.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xda app-developers app
Try to search on Amazon
Inviato dal mio GT-I9001 con Tapatalk 2
No chance to get the full piece online?
I wanna know where to buy that sgs usb port for replace?
ebay maybe?
The I9001 that my friend has (I have a I9000) had a similar issue after his daughter pulled out the charging cable from the USB port. After opening it up as you did, found the usb connector pins too fine to be soldered on. Anyways, after some air blowing and cleaning with electro-cleaner, it started working again. Now running Kitkat as well!!
JJson2507 said:
I wanna know where to buy that sgs usb port for replace?
ebay maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here you go http://www.dhgate.com/product/micro...nnector-port/170777088.html#s1-1-1|1467740713
or you can find it on ebay.
Is it possible to change full usb part (not only connector) from i9001 to i9000?
Hi,
I have a Tab M10 tablet. It's a fine and cheap tablet that I will use to control my Smart Home system.
I want to mount the tablet on the wall. I wil use some kind of custom built mounting frame for the tablet.
For permanent power, I want to use the Pogo Pins at the bottom if possible. (the same pins are used in smart docks)
Does anyone know if I just can put 5Vdc on the pins and what is the polarity.
Greetings,
Remko
Edit:
Here are some pictures of the dock connectors
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No one knows how to use those pins without a docking station?
Hi, I have the same plans as you, same tablet, same purpose..... bought a 2 pin usb cable for smart watch, same dimensions, the tablet seems to know something is happening as it vibrates a little. but then it does not seem to charge :/ If you ever found a solution, i would be happy to hear it. in the meantime, i'll try to have a look, maybe there a security switch that disables the connector if the tablet is not "locked" in the dock though the two holes on the sides of the pin connectors.
Sorry for not having a solution but rather leaving more questions.
link to the cable just in case : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08SJBK6ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have a nice day
EDIT : It actually does work out of the box, the positioning was wrong (and the pins have to be in the right position, you can't invert the pins so don't forget to try both sides, i got it wrong and the tablet does not seem to suffer from this mistake) as I was trying to hold it in place. So from what I can tell, you should be good to go with this cable or an other (I could hardly find any so i posted a link but feel free to use any as long as the space between the 2 pins is the same as the one in the link )
stan69b said:
Hi, I have the same plans as you, same tablet, same purpose..... bought a 2 pin usb cable for smart watch, same dimensions, the tablet seems to know something is happening as it vibrates a little. but then it does not seem to charge :/ If you ever found a solution, i would be happy to hear it. in the meantime, i'll try to have a look, maybe there a security switch that disables the connector if the tablet is not "locked" in the dock though the two holes on the sides of the pin connectors.
Sorry for not having a solution but rather leaving more questions.
link to the cable just in case : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08SJBK6ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have a nice day
EDIT : It actually does work out of the box, the positioning was wrong (and the pins have to be in the right position, you can't invert the pins so don't forget to try both sides, i got it wrong and the tablet does not seem to suffer from this mistake) as I was trying to hold it in place. So from what I can tell, you should be good to go with this cable or an other (I could hardly find any so i posted a link but feel free to use any as long as the space between the 2 pins is the same as the one in the link )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am looking for a similar cable for probably a slightly different purpose. I also want to mount it on the wall but at the same time want to use the tablet as Alexa Echo Show. I have not managed to get the Alexa Echo Show mode on my M10 FHD tablet. On enquiring from Lenovo I was told that it works only when it is docked but the tablet did not come with a docking stating.
Are you using Alexa on your tablet? Does echo show works for you when charing using this cable with pogo pins?
TWIMC: If you stumble over an old Pebble Classic SmartWatch charger cable: the pins fit! After removal of the magnets I implemented it into a wooden mini-easel as a stand, used tooth picks for alignment, works nicely! But (BIG BUT) I wanted it to be charging my Lenovo M10 while using OTG - THAT DOES NOT WORK! If you insert the OTG cable, it switches off the Pogo pin charging. Some idiot engineer thought himself clever...
Alternative is looking for OTG adapters being able to charge simutaneously. rare, but available.
chw9999 said:
Alternative is looking for OTG adapters being able to charge simutaneously. rare, but available.
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Google brought me here. I got a Belkin adapter ( https://www.belkin.com/usb-c-audio-charge-adapter/F7U081btBLK.html ) for this, but that doesn't work either. I had Just realized it had pogo pins so went looking for a solution. It seems this tablet is a real stinker where otg is concerned. It also will not work properly with my external desktop DAC over USB. For my next tablet I will have to do some research beforehand...