Hi.
I have done a little research about JATG pins trying to find a way to revive my dead X7500. I know it is difficult and that (possibly) a X7500 board needs to be disassembled but i wonder if it would be somehow easier to be done with X7500.
For example i saw an eten motherboard where jtag pins were easily located.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss354/son_hui/JTAGroverorsio.jpg
But i also saw the exec striped motherboard.....
Anyway.. what i want to say is that an effort to find the jtag pins would help many devices to become functional again.
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Well, there is a debug connector on the athena. More information about the debug connector can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2512981&postcount=12
You can see the connector on the right of the motherboard. Now i'm trying to find a way to connect my wiggler clone cable to the debug connector. The connector pins are too small to work with my soldering iron...is any other way to get connected?
That's the cable i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206464946#ebayphotohosting
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Hi nicktgr15,
maybe you'll need a smaller solder iron
Serious, there's no other way than to solder some thin wires to the debug pads.
Maybe you'll find some bigger contacts nearby, that belong to the same connection.
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you'll need GND too!
As your adaptor is a buffered one, you should sort out the VCC pad on the debug connector also. This voltage is needed to power up the buffer IC on your adaptor.
P.S.: the biggest problem would be to rewrite something into Athena's flash chip. As far as i know this is a G4-DoC from MSystems and there's no JTAG solution for this part .
Anyway, good luck for your experiments!
scholbert
Hi Scholbert
Thanks for the reply. I know that this will be the hard part as i have read your adventures with universal but for the moment i just want to connect it.
I'll get a thinner tip for my soldering iron and give it a try. Unfortunately the pins around the debug port are not helping
I'll post my results here.
Regards
Nick
I have a similar problem could possibly sealed the processor and find jtag contacts in this way.
Just out of interest: I am used to JTAG flashing on satellite receivers (see my signature).
The pictured JTAG interface looks pretty much like the ones I often use. Regarding the power, mine use a battery to power them up or I can solder a DCC connection. I think that is safer than to get the power from the actual device.
The other thing is: it is not enough to just get the physical connection to the JTAG pins. One need to put the processor of the device in JTAG mode and then control the flash chip through this CPU.
Either you have a flash utility for the JTAG interface, or it will be completly useless.
I might me missing such a tool, in which case I would love to have a link to download it (don't need it, but just in case).
Cheers,
vma
Related
Hi @ all,
at the first, sorry for my bad english.
On my wizard, the usb connector was detached. So i solder it new on the
mainboard, but i can not connect via usb. I think there is a another part
demanged too.
I have found this site : http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~HTC_Wizard-511~area~repairs~item~REP%2DUSBCON01~name~HTC+Wizard+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
Up to five parts can be demanged. But i don't know which parts. Have anyone
some informations about this ???
I hope someone can give me a tip and can help me.
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
They say, traces can be damaged, (not parts), traces are the metal draws wich are on the motherboard.
I have a similar problem. but I now, (if I apply pressure to the usb plug) it works, so I'm looking for an spare part to get mine fixed.
Maybe you Have the same problem than me, or the soldering works, was not quite good, I don't Know.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
very thanks for your posting...
The miniUSB Part is correctly connected (soldered) to the motherboard.
I have measured the parts on the board. All elements themes to be ok.
The D+ and D- Line goes to the OMAP CPU. Over two 36 resistors.
A third line goes with a 1.5kohm resistor to the D- line (between the 36ohm
resistors). Here is a diode from the 1.5K to a 24K resistor. these two are
parallel (at the top with the diode). I can not find an error, but it dosen't work.
Can you describe me what you exactly mean with 'metal draw' ???
Here i have made an Image of the mainboard an describe the relevant parts :
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Hope you or another have more info's or ideas to repair the USB Bus.
Best regards
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello.
My english is quite limited so I will try to do my best to explain what I mean
for "metal draws"
these are the "wires drawed" on the motherboard. These used to carry electricity from one component to other, which are drawed on the "Printed" circuit board.
Have you tested continuity?, from the usb pins, to the rest of the components you describe here?
When I resoldered mine, I had to do it twice.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your answer.
Yes, i have tested all electrical connections from the external miniUSB Pins
to the Mainboard Components. All connections are right *bad*
So, the problem is elsewhere, but i don't know where.
Regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
I changed my miniusb connector yesterday, and,......
It' doesn't work at all.
I explain.
when I plug the usb cable directly, nothing happens, if I aplly pressure to the cable, (whith one finger) it works, so I think the problem is in the soldering of one of the tracks. By the fact if presure is applied, the metal parts touch themselves.
So I think the solution will be,.......
reopen again my qtek, (it will be fourth time) and use a needle to maintain the pins attached to the track while aplying the solder.
Hope this time works, and maybe it should also work for you.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
yes, it is not easy to solder correctly the mini usb plug.
I'm sildering since more than 20 years, so i have not problem with it.
My Tip, the pins left and right (+ and -) are big pad's, so, you need here
a biller solder pen. The middle pins need a very small solder pen. I use
a 0.8mm solder pen for the middle pins. Before you insert the Battery, check,
that ther is no connections between the pin's !
I have solved my Problem , yesterday. I think, the OMAP cpu deaktivates the
USB Pins, if the are connected, between, or to + or -, as security. This
deactivation holds after a Hardwarereset.
Yesterday i found the software USBSwitch, und with this, i resettet the usb
Interface. Now it works correctly and without Problems. Charge over USB
(without connect pin 4 And 5 of the miniUsb) works as well.
So, YES, all is fine ....
You only need, to resolder your miniUSB Plug, and all works for you too ....
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hi
Finally, it works also for me.
I did as I said before, pressing with a needle, while aplying the soldering.
I use a 0'6 solder I found some time ago, But soldering is a hobby for me, so sometimes, I have problems with very small items.
But now it's all working.
Regards
I have a working TMOUS HD2 motherboard which have a "broken/ripped off" lcd connector.
I also have a non working/bricked TMOUS HD2 motherboard complete and without any physical problem.
Is there any possibility to replace this connector?
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Any help would be much appreciated.
Is the part here?
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/parts-for-htc-hd2.html
I highly doubt it. That connector is more than likely surface mounted with little tiny pins soldered to the other side of the board, and would be amazingly difficult to remove and replace correctly by hand.
That's what I thought...
But it seems that I don't have nothing to lose...
I even have a third broken motherboard (also with a ripped lcd connector) where I can test the "removal" an "relocation" of the component. I know it's difficult, but there is too much to win and almost nothing to lose.
Any tech approach would be appreciated.
I tried to remove it with a heat gun.
It was VERY EASY and the removal was perfect!
Next I removed a good lcd connector from another phone (also without a problem) and that's where the problems began.
Soldering with a heat gun, which is not designed for precision work is like killing a bug with a bazooka... you will kill the bug but you will break something else...
End of story... ended with 2 non working motherboards and learned that I need a reworking station for this kind of work.
its easy I done them so many times without fail
MGA2009 said:
I tried to remove it with a heat gun.
It was VERY EASY and the removal was perfect!
Next I removed a good lcd connector from another phone (also without a problem) and that's where the problems began.
Soldering with a heat gun, which is not designed for precision work is like killing a bug with a bazooka... you will kill the bug but you will break something else...
End of story... ended with 2 non working motherboards and learned that I need a reworking station for this kind of work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its easy and done it many times sorry you couldn't done it
Tips on how to replace the lcd connector on logic board
dan18 said:
its easy and done it many times sorry you couldn't done it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but can you assist some of us with the same problem in few short tips before I destroy my motherboard too
I might be wrong but is it just the clip that is broken? Do the contacts still connect? It might be possible to glue a thin strip of metal to the plastic ends of the motherboard's connector to hold the ribbon cable connector in place. Might work
Hi,
I'm totaly confused about what I found on the main board of my HD2.
Now, Simple you think, if you look on google you find the pinout to be:
5 VCC +5 V
4 Dā Data ā
3 D+ Data +
2 Type A: connected to Ground
or
Type B: not connected
1 GND Black Signal Ground
Easy... Or????
My USB is broken from the PCB (looks like the coper on the pcb is not that thight to the bord. Well.. Since I did study electronocs, I should be able to fix it. I took my HD2 appart, but I found this:
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Now if you look at the connections, Pin 1 is clear, Pin 2 is connected Pin 5 is also clear. Pin 4 can be through an other layer, so that is also explanable.
BUT: Pin 3 ? Is that one not connected? Does it just use ground instead of data-?
Who can give some answers? I don't understand.
Thanks
Hi again,
Ok, I know it should be connected somewhere, but I can not find out where I can connect it. I hope someone knows where I can find a coper line or component which should be connected to pin 3.
I now heve all connected except pin3 which makes USB useless, but the charging works.
There is one more question, does anyone know where I could get a new mainboard for this phone and what the price is?
Hi,did U solve this?i have problem with microusb too...
pinouts
hope the pic help the to your problem.
be careful when soldering because the small pives will come apart if you atemot to solder with soldering iron.
best will be bga blow gun and positioning small wire near the components still be very careful otherwise you will not have what to fix.
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
kruithofm said:
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you joking? Really dumped it?
Very big mistake!
You wasted a totally revivable/repairable hd2
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
kruithofm said:
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in buying it!
Think about for a fair price and PM me, if interested!
I'm not selling.. sorry...
I was attempting to solder in a usb flash drive onto the board for some extra internal storage, similar to what they are doing in this thread => http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866988
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While soldering I accidently broke the piece circled in orange int he picture. I think it is a resistor? Can anyone confirm that and possible tell me how many ohms it is? The piece fell on the floor and is in my carpet somewhere. I would like to get a new piece to solder back in. Since the piece is missing my nexus 7 works fine except it can't go into OTG mode. If I connect a flash drive to the micro usb port with an OTG cable nothing happens and previously it would mount the USB with stickmount.
grnqrtr said:
I was attempting to solder in a usb flash drive onto the board for some extra internal storage, similar to what they are doing in this thread => http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866988
While soldering I accidently broke the piece circled in orange int he picture. I think it is a resistor? Can anyone confirm that and possible tell me how many ohms it is? The piece fell on the floor and is in my carpet somewhere. I would like to get a new piece to solder back in. Since the piece is missing my nexus 7 works fine except it can't go into OTG mode. If I connect a flash drive to the micro usb port with an OTG cable nothing happens and previously it would mount the USB with stickmount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a resistor. When I get a chance I'll get the resistance for you, I'm in the process of moving my office in my house so I don't know exactly where my Multimeter is at the moment.
Thank you! That would be much appreciated!
Still haven't heard anything. Can anyone check the resistance for me?
grnqrtr said:
Still haven't heard anything. Can anyone check the resistance for me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you had a look at Nexus 7 schematics?
I found this, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31922480#post31922480 , but it's way too complex for me. I have no idea how to find that one little resistor in the schematic.
grnqrtr said:
I found this, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31922480#post31922480 , but it's way too complex for me. I have no idea how to find that one little resistor in the schematic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My guess, please check the schematic on sheet 14 of 60 or page 14, look for r83. Value of R83 is 100k ohm.
please correct if I was wrong.
KVLV said:
My guess, please check the schematic on sheet 14 of 60 or page 14, look for r83. Value of R83 is 100k ohm.
please correct if I was wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That definitely looks like a good guess. I might try that. Can anyone else confirm KVLV's guess?
I have an android headunit and an antenna amplifier.
The amplifier has a single blue cable with a removable plastic cap on it which I am to connect to a source of power in the car.
My headunit also has the same cables sticking out of it
(#10 in this diagram)
https://i.frg.im/vPFtpmyN/3291-11.jpg
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I am led to believe that this could be the source of power that I am looking for
My question is how do I connect the blue power cable of my amplifier to the power cable coming out of my headunit?
They are both bare wires with no connector.
Thanks
bump
Yes just connect them together.
Your have lots of options, you could solder them and use heat shrink (that's my preferred option) or you could crimp a bullet connector on them, or a simple barrel crimp. You could even use a bit of choc block (screw connector).
Ben.suffolk said:
Yes just connect them together.
Your have lots of options, you could solder them and use heat shrink (that's my preferred option) or you could crimp a bullet connector on them, or a simple barrel crimp. You could even use a bit of choc block (screw connector).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. I was afraid it was going to be something like that.
I don't have a soldering iron, do you have a link to these bullet connector or choc bloc, google returns lots of results and they all look different.
Is it possible to just twist the wires together without shocking myself?
The end of my amplifier power wire looks like this
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51WKcF47auL._SX679_.jpg
But the headunit wire is simply a bare wire
Thanks again
Your problem is going to be that a connector is only pennies, but you will typically buy them in bags of 100 and they you need a crimp tool to fit them. If you look on Amazon you can find some cheap crimp tools that will do the job as a DIY solution I'm sure.
There are various packs with assorted crimps etc, but I can't see what's included. these are the connectors you need so just make sure any kits have one of these in them https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AE480S6/ref=psdc_1938311031_t1_B00IO62MQM ideal a crimper t Old would be of the ratchet style but if your just doing this one thing, you might as well just buy the cheapest pliers type you can find.
You could also try a car assessor its shop if you have one local, they might sell the connectors and lend you the tool.
Or you could just twist the wires together and wrap in electrical tape, not ideal but will do the job without the need of any type of connector...
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