Hi,
I have a Tab M10 tablet. It's a fine and cheap tablet that I will use to control my Smart Home system.
I want to mount the tablet on the wall. I wil use some kind of custom built mounting frame for the tablet.
For permanent power, I want to use the Pogo Pins at the bottom if possible. (the same pins are used in smart docks)
Does anyone know if I just can put 5Vdc on the pins and what is the polarity.
Greetings,
Remko
Edit:
Here are some pictures of the dock connectors
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
No one knows how to use those pins without a docking station?
Hi, I have the same plans as you, same tablet, same purpose..... bought a 2 pin usb cable for smart watch, same dimensions, the tablet seems to know something is happening as it vibrates a little. but then it does not seem to charge :/ If you ever found a solution, i would be happy to hear it. in the meantime, i'll try to have a look, maybe there a security switch that disables the connector if the tablet is not "locked" in the dock though the two holes on the sides of the pin connectors.
Sorry for not having a solution but rather leaving more questions.
link to the cable just in case : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08SJBK6ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have a nice day
EDIT : It actually does work out of the box, the positioning was wrong (and the pins have to be in the right position, you can't invert the pins so don't forget to try both sides, i got it wrong and the tablet does not seem to suffer from this mistake) as I was trying to hold it in place. So from what I can tell, you should be good to go with this cable or an other (I could hardly find any so i posted a link but feel free to use any as long as the space between the 2 pins is the same as the one in the link )
stan69b said:
Hi, I have the same plans as you, same tablet, same purpose..... bought a 2 pin usb cable for smart watch, same dimensions, the tablet seems to know something is happening as it vibrates a little. but then it does not seem to charge :/ If you ever found a solution, i would be happy to hear it. in the meantime, i'll try to have a look, maybe there a security switch that disables the connector if the tablet is not "locked" in the dock though the two holes on the sides of the pin connectors.
Sorry for not having a solution but rather leaving more questions.
link to the cable just in case : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08SJBK6ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have a nice day
EDIT : It actually does work out of the box, the positioning was wrong (and the pins have to be in the right position, you can't invert the pins so don't forget to try both sides, i got it wrong and the tablet does not seem to suffer from this mistake) as I was trying to hold it in place. So from what I can tell, you should be good to go with this cable or an other (I could hardly find any so i posted a link but feel free to use any as long as the space between the 2 pins is the same as the one in the link )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am looking for a similar cable for probably a slightly different purpose. I also want to mount it on the wall but at the same time want to use the tablet as Alexa Echo Show. I have not managed to get the Alexa Echo Show mode on my M10 FHD tablet. On enquiring from Lenovo I was told that it works only when it is docked but the tablet did not come with a docking stating.
Are you using Alexa on your tablet? Does echo show works for you when charing using this cable with pogo pins?
TWIMC: If you stumble over an old Pebble Classic SmartWatch charger cable: the pins fit! After removal of the magnets I implemented it into a wooden mini-easel as a stand, used tooth picks for alignment, works nicely! But (BIG BUT) I wanted it to be charging my Lenovo M10 while using OTG - THAT DOES NOT WORK! If you insert the OTG cable, it switches off the Pogo pin charging. Some idiot engineer thought himself clever...
Alternative is looking for OTG adapters being able to charge simutaneously. rare, but available.
chw9999 said:
Alternative is looking for OTG adapters being able to charge simutaneously. rare, but available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google brought me here. I got a Belkin adapter ( https://www.belkin.com/usb-c-audio-charge-adapter/F7U081btBLK.html ) for this, but that doesn't work either. I had Just realized it had pogo pins so went looking for a solution. It seems this tablet is a real stinker where otg is concerned. It also will not work properly with my external desktop DAC over USB. For my next tablet I will have to do some research beforehand...
Related
Hi @ all,
at the first, sorry for my bad english.
On my wizard, the usb connector was detached. So i solder it new on the
mainboard, but i can not connect via usb. I think there is a another part
demanged too.
I have found this site : http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~HTC_Wizard-511~area~repairs~item~REP%2DUSBCON01~name~HTC+Wizard+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
Up to five parts can be demanged. But i don't know which parts. Have anyone
some informations about this ???
I hope someone can give me a tip and can help me.
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
They say, traces can be damaged, (not parts), traces are the metal draws wich are on the motherboard.
I have a similar problem. but I now, (if I apply pressure to the usb plug) it works, so I'm looking for an spare part to get mine fixed.
Maybe you Have the same problem than me, or the soldering works, was not quite good, I don't Know.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
very thanks for your posting...
The miniUSB Part is correctly connected (soldered) to the motherboard.
I have measured the parts on the board. All elements themes to be ok.
The D+ and D- Line goes to the OMAP CPU. Over two 36 resistors.
A third line goes with a 1.5kohm resistor to the D- line (between the 36ohm
resistors). Here is a diode from the 1.5K to a 24K resistor. these two are
parallel (at the top with the diode). I can not find an error, but it dosen't work.
Can you describe me what you exactly mean with 'metal draw' ???
Here i have made an Image of the mainboard an describe the relevant parts :
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Hope you or another have more info's or ideas to repair the USB Bus.
Best regards
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello.
My english is quite limited so I will try to do my best to explain what I mean
for "metal draws"
these are the "wires drawed" on the motherboard. These used to carry electricity from one component to other, which are drawed on the "Printed" circuit board.
Have you tested continuity?, from the usb pins, to the rest of the components you describe here?
When I resoldered mine, I had to do it twice.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your answer.
Yes, i have tested all electrical connections from the external miniUSB Pins
to the Mainboard Components. All connections are right *bad*
So, the problem is elsewhere, but i don't know where.
Regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hello,
I changed my miniusb connector yesterday, and,......
It' doesn't work at all.
I explain.
when I plug the usb cable directly, nothing happens, if I aplly pressure to the cable, (whith one finger) it works, so I think the problem is in the soldering of one of the tracks. By the fact if presure is applied, the metal parts touch themselves.
So I think the solution will be,.......
reopen again my qtek, (it will be fourth time) and use a needle to maintain the pins attached to the track while aplying the solder.
Hope this time works, and maybe it should also work for you.
Regards
Hi papanillu,
yes, it is not easy to solder correctly the mini usb plug.
I'm sildering since more than 20 years, so i have not problem with it.
My Tip, the pins left and right (+ and -) are big pad's, so, you need here
a biller solder pen. The middle pins need a very small solder pen. I use
a 0.8mm solder pen for the middle pins. Before you insert the Battery, check,
that ther is no connections between the pin's !
I have solved my Problem , yesterday. I think, the OMAP cpu deaktivates the
USB Pins, if the are connected, between, or to + or -, as security. This
deactivation holds after a Hardwarereset.
Yesterday i found the software USBSwitch, und with this, i resettet the usb
Interface. Now it works correctly and without Problems. Charge over USB
(without connect pin 4 And 5 of the miniUsb) works as well.
So, YES, all is fine ....
You only need, to resolder your miniUSB Plug, and all works for you too ....
Best regards,
Torsten
alias MrWeb
Hi
Finally, it works also for me.
I did as I said before, pressing with a needle, while aplying the soldering.
I use a 0'6 solder I found some time ago, But soldering is a hobby for me, so sometimes, I have problems with very small items.
But now it's all working.
Regards
Here's the short tutorial on how to modify a Brodit/Proclips active car mount to work with an HTC y-cable. This allows you to slide your Kaiser into the device holder, and have audio out capabilities while charging.
First, you need to use a knife to separate the top plate from the charging plug. Slide your knife gently between both sides to completely separate it. If you look carefully there is a thin line between the top plate and the bottom mount.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Once you've removed the top plate, you'll see the usb charging cable:
Remove it and get the y-cable ready to install. You need to remove the rubber casing around the end of the y-cable in order for it to fit correctly:
Once installed in the holder, it should look like this:
Use some type of adhesive to reattach the top plate:
Here's the finished product:
Tank you very much for your work. I've got my active car-mount yesterday and will mod it this weekend!
Bye, Peter
Glad to see that you had success, I will mod my active cradle now.
I think I am gonna use the one modded like this on my desk - I still can't see a decent landscape desk cradle on the market, so I think this mod + a bit of lead + some of that polymorph stuff I use in my passive holder version of this mod will make a nice desk cradle. I could link it into the stereo so I can choose songs on the phone while I game on the PC
URPREY said:
Here's the short tutorial .....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will get mine on Friday..
Looking now for...
http://www.dal-tec.com/smarteq.asp
or
http://cgi.ebay.nl/THB-Bury-UNI-Sys...ryZ35193QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
any expierences with that or simalar units from other brands?
This ruins the 12V cable originally supplied by Brodit/Proclip, correct?
No - I put a little bit of heatshrink tubing on the exposed metal part that doesn't go into the phone, and I'm using it as the charger still.
Hey guys/gals...
I bought a Y cable for my Tilt and when I plug it in to my phone and plug in an audio connector to external speakers and the power charger to the other side of the Y, I get charging, but the audio still comes out of the phones speaker and not to the adapter? Is there a setting I have to change to stop the audio from coming out of the phone and divert it to the audio out adapter?
Thanks for any help!
Congratulations!
You have given me the confidence to get on and do mine. Spookily, yesterday my audio output from IGo started being fed to my car speakers via bluetooth for no apparent reason! Getting the nav instructions is my main purpose here. It wont last Im sure . .
Use the BT Toggle app someone here designed. It works GREAT!!
ANyone know why audio won't come out of the Y splitter for my Tilt? Do I need to switch something on/off in the phone to divert the audio from the phones speaker to the audio jack?
Thanks
Did you verify that it works on another HTC phone? It's just plug and play on all of my HTC phones.
Nice Modding guide...
may do this, but can you tell me if the Brodit/ProClip stuff puts the Kaiser in a good enough position to use it's built in GPS?
Sure, it works just fine where it's mounted.
mega_jamie said:
Nice Modding guide...
may do this, but can you tell me if the Brodit/ProClip stuff puts the Kaiser in a good enough position to use it's built in GPS?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just got back from a 650 mile round trip weekend, and YES, the Brodit/Proclip put my Tilt in a perfect place for the satellites/GPS to work wonderfully.
Okay. I've looked at a lot of cases. I want a case that exposes the miniusb port. I need a side case. This is just to plug in my headphones. If I can't find one like that. I think these two should work?:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
+
I would've bought a A2DP bt headset, but it made no sense to me since most of the time my phone is in my pocket.
I am looking for the EXACT SAME THING!
BUMP
I spent about three hours today on the google and ebay looking for the exact same thing. Does anybody have any ideas? All the ones I found completely block the USB port.
I'm a bit particular though. I want a magnetic snap. The OEM velcro case actually has an exposed USB if you put the phone in head-first (assuming you have the case on your right hip), but I don't like the velcro. It's too noisy for in taking the phone in and out in quiet meetings and such. Not to mention that the OEM case is pretty cheap feeling compared to OEM cases for previous HTC devices (such as the Mogul, which had the PERFECT magnetic snap case with exposed USB).
Also, not only do I want exposed USB, but I want to be able to take the phone out without unplugging the USB. I've seen cases with a hole in the middle (but not for the Pro), but this sucks because you have to unplug the USB before taking the phone in and out of the case.
I'm tempted to get another OEM Mogul case and just dealing with the fact that the TP is "loose" in the case (not form fitting) because the USB port is exposed pretty nicely even though the case is not designed for it.
thx1200 said:
BUMP
I spent about three hours today on the google and ebay looking for the exact same thing. Does anybody have any ideas? All the ones I found completely block the USB port.
I'm a bit particular though. I want a magnetic snap. The OEM velcro case actually has an exposed USB if you put the phone in head-first (assuming you have the case on your right hip), but I don't like the velcro. It's too noisy for in taking the phone in and out in quiet meetings and such. Not to mention that the OEM case is pretty cheap feeling compared to OEM cases for previous HTC devices (such as the Mogul, which had the PERFECT magnetic snap case with exposed USB).
Also, not only do I want exposed USB, but I want to be able to take the phone out without unplugging the USB. I've seen cases with a hole in the middle (but not for the Pro), but this sucks because you have to unplug the USB before taking the phone in and out of the case.
I'm tempted to get another OEM Mogul case and just dealing with the fact that the TP is "loose" in the case (not form fitting) because the USB port is exposed pretty nicely even though the case is not designed for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm really looking for a side case, but for you if you don't mind, just get a pouch /w belt clip. It can have the end exposed, put in headfirst and that would work. But I want a side case. I was really looking for a side case that fits, this one has elastic on the end so I wouldn't be able to cut it. If it has leather on the sides (instead of form fitting). I'm just looking to be able to connect my headphones through it and this setup will work nicely. I'm probably ordering by next week if I can't find a better solution.
Bah I give up! Too many cases. Now I'll just decide. I'm gonna need the headphone adapter and I don't really want to carry my phone on my belt being a 15 yr old >.> I'm just getting this pouch:
Here's the link: [Link]
Here's a youtube vid of it: [Link]
Note the difference is the case I'm ordering won't have a belt clip
So I'm making a flexible, detachable monitor out of my atrix lapdock, a cheap flexible lamp, some cheap aluminium and a micro-hdmi -> hdmi converter!!!
Lamp
Here http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Electri...1392864024&sr=1-7&keywords=flexible+desk+lamp
or Here http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Harbor-TL-TB-170-BK3L-Flexible-Black/dp/B002SDNSF6
NOTE: Not the same one I used, as I just used what I had lying around, it needs to have a large diameter neck to fit the cords inside.
So far I have the initial mount tapped and screwed onto the head of the lamp, and the Power cord whittled down to fit through it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Lapdock
Only necessary parts are the motherboard and the Hall Sensor plugged into it to make the screen work, seen here
Aluminium
Making a case from aluminum to cover/protect internals, this will be screwed into the back of the lapdock's screen and attached/detached
from the lamp mount via magnets.
HDMI Converter
Here is the one I'm ordering.
http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-P...-1-catcorr&keywords=female+micro+hdmi+to+hdmi
I will make a tut when this is complete.
*** For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint? Not sure if this is from handling internals so much and causing damage or what but it worked fine on my other Atrix? If anyone has an extra broken lapdock they'd like to donate so I can fix this? Not needed but very welcome Now that the phone is so old,
I hope more cool projects like this come up.
***ALSO I want to squeeze an hdmi through the lamp neck however connector is much too large. Anyone know if you can cut an HDMI and successfully solder it back on? (Something like 19 wires?)
Anybody interested in doing this? I've ordered my cable and will post the assembled pics when it arrives!
jeffreygtab said:
For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Renate NST said:
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring to the 30pin or the one that the lcd plugs into? I have no idea what the schematics are for the lapdock so that'd help. If it's fixable I'll try giving it a soldering when I go to robotics! I'm just learning though so hopefully I don't botch it.
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Renate NST said:
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its the Motorola atrix lapdock. The "No signal" popped up recently and it didn't display accurate whites at all...
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Renate NST said:
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like something I easily could have done because I was fiddling with the connectors a ton during the initial tear down. I'll post pics tomorrow morning.
EDIT: Pics, I don't see why it's not working...
Yeah The LVDS cable is way to small to see if it's damaged... I guess I'll just have to deal with it.
Guys there is a piece or tutorial that definitively solves the problem of the usb-c port of this device, I like it very much and I didn't want to get rid of it !!
redchilis said:
I've thought of many solutions, however, since my my USB-C port seems fine atm, I'm not fidgeting with it.
1st thing I tried was Wireless Charging.
This video above, gave me some hope, but the youtuber has not shared links to buy what worked for him and none of the high-end Qi Wireless Charging receivers I bought worked for me.
After researching a bit and trying multiple Qi Charging Receivers, I read somewhere, Wireless Charging receivers don't play well with phones that offer any type of fast charging, which our phones do.
2nd thing I tried is getting a magnetic cable, which looks something like the image below
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
However, the peice that went into the phone has quite a bit of thickness and felt if the phone were to ever fall on the charging port it would break the port and generally, I did not like the aesthetics of it, it was too thick. Check this video out if you are interested in it, it's for a similar phone (Video MP4 file)
3rd thing I considered was to DIY a battery case that would connect to the port and a cover that would be thick enough to cover the port and the battery case. Would then have an alternative charging method, like wireless or USB-C. I gave up on this as my port is fine as of now, since I bought a pre-owned phone, it's been working fine.
Currently, I only use an Amazon basics certified USB-C cable to charge the phone, I do not use the company supplied cable at all.
If you want to change the charging port yourself you can search on youtube you will find a video with reasonable knowledge on how to open up your phone and change the port yourself, like this one
The port itself at the time of writing this post costs 309 INR (maxbhi link)
Hope that helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there's none, you can fix it, but eventually, it's gonna broken again. The actual problem is the housing, it's put much pressure on the port so it wears so easily, especially when you're using your phone when charging, which most people often do even just for checking the notification.
In my opinion,
Change the port with the OEM original and replace that goddam USB cable that came with the phone,
That cable is the culprit, I use OnePlus dash cable
I was very luck to find a repair service that fixed the internal piece of hardware (I live in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil).
It took the guy approx. 2 hours to complete the job.
Note that he didn't replace the hardware, but fixed the original faulty component somehow instead.
If you order the OEM component from AliExpress or somewhere else and ask a technician to replace, it would take approx. 30 min.
After the job was done, the back of the phone was glued and kept strapped to the case with ribbons for half an hour.
Also I've bought a new cable, a highly recommended OEM one from Amazon. That was when the first signs of the problem emerged.
Now the fast charge is working again.
In the last few weeks of despair, I was applying pressure to the connector when attached to the port, by rising it or pushing it to the side, which only made things worse, since the internal component was absorbing all that pressure.
Don't do that. If the problem comes, try to replace the internal component asap.
One last piece of advice, don't charge and use the phone. Keep it quiet on a flat surface, like a table or chair.
I read somewhere so not sure of truths but.... the story said the problem was the fit being to loose and causing wear... The solution that the guy came up with was to put a small strip of cello tape carefully around the end of the USB c connector making the fit tighter... Seems like it could be a solution... I personally just keep changing the faulty bit.... The phones in a case so no need to professionally restick the back... Changing the part takes about five minutes
This is what I do after usb port is broken
Spoiler: Picture
You only need cutter blade and electricity solatip
So far it's work and my usb port not loose & broken again.
Hope that help
kutumbaba said:
This is what I do after usb port is broken
Spoiler: Picture
You only need cutter blade and electricity solatip
View attachment 5179685View attachment 5179689View attachment 5179691View attachment 5179693
So far it's work and my usb port not loose & broken again.
Hope that help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How many turns u did with the tape?
BladeRunnerA2C said:
How many turns u did with the tape?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it twice
BladeRunnerA2C said:
In my opinion,
Change the port with the OEM original and replace that goddam USB cable that came with the phone,
That cable is the culprit, I use OnePlus dash cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there! OnePlus dash cable fits perfectly? Any issues so far?
I think there is no solution for this problem. I changed the usb-c board 5 times, the last one yesterday. I finally bought 5 more new, seemingly original boards from an Aliexpress seller, for about $ 16 in total. Here is the link to the article, for anyone interested:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32992032135.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5dcc63c0PrdFG8