I remember reading a thread labeled [THINK TANK] to discuss how the vibrant dies around 3400 to 3600 mV, when a full charge is at 3900 mV. I searched for over an hour and could not find it.
This is the discussion, I know it's not healthy for Li-ion batteries to discharge fully, however they were talking about a kernel or rom or something that would allow the battery to discharge to about 3200 or 3000 mV which seems to still be a healthy range for Li-ion discharge and would seem to nearly double uptime.
3300 mV is the nominal voltage. It could be modified to shut off at this, but the battery life duration is still unknown.
Edit: full charge is 4250 mV
I think I remember Eugene saying voltage is controlled by the kernel but couldn't be edited without the source. Now that the source is availible hopefully we will see something soon. Batteries are so cheap I'm sure most of us wouldn't mind trading battery life for lifespan.
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My battery gets to 4187 mV at 92% charge. Then it stays at 4187 until 100%. If I pull the charger immediately it drops to around 4088.
My Samsung Moment was like this until someone wrote different battery tables.
Could it be that some of our phones with sucky battery life have bad battery tables?
Ps....I can never get my mV over 4187
I don't know that they have a voltmeter with millivolt precision built into the phone. I'd be curious to see how what exactly is producing these voltage readings. It might just be a "hack" that was never meant to show numbers to that level of precision.
I'm assuming the extended battery kernels are for the official 2300mA battery and they just happen to work with the knockoff 2400's also because of the driver or whatever, I dunno how it works exactly. But anyway, my question is if the official 2300mA EB drains as fast as the stock battery and then you have to do reseat the battery to get the other ~60% out of it, or if it's just the 2400 because of the extra juice? Is there any workaround for it to get it to recognize that it's actually 2400 instead of having to reset it when it drains the first cycle? It's a little irritating but nothing serious.
hd2k10 said:
I'm assuming the extended battery kernels are for the official 2300mA battery and they just happen to work with the knockoff 2400's also because of the driver or whatever, I dunno how it works exactly. But anyway, my question is if the official 2300mA EB drains as fast as the stock battery and then you have to do reseat the battery to get the other ~60% out of it, or if it's just the 2400 because of the extra juice? Is there any workaround for it to get it to recognize that it's actually 2400 instead of having to reset it when it drains the first cycle? It's a little irritating but nothing serious.
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Mine has a different behaviour.
It is made by Leicke.
It will charge to 100% or 4.195 Volts. Then leave it off the charger for half an hour and it will show like 70 or 80% (in that range) and the Voltage is at 4.14 Volts or so. Really weird.
I can watch a full movie even if the % is below 10%.
It cuts off at 3.67 Volts or so.
I find it weird that the % doesn't seem to depend on the Voltage. I've seen different batt test and the behaviour, curve, seems to be about the same.
No idea on how we could change this behaviour but it would be easier and more correct to use the Voltage.
lukesan said:
Mine has a different behaviour.
It is made by Leicke.
It will charge to 100% or 4.195 Volts. Then leave it off the charger for half an hour and it will show like 70 or 80% (in that range) and the Voltage is at 4.14 Volts or so. Really weird.
I can watch a full movie even if the % is below 10%.
It cuts off at 3.67 Volts or so.
I find it weird that the % doesn't seem to depend on the Voltage. I've seen different batt test and the behaviour, curve, seems to be about the same.
No idea on how we could change this behaviour but it would be easier and more correct to use the Voltage.
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Calibrating your battery might fix that problem --- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=755903, but if it's cutting off at 3.67, you should still have ~60% left if you take the battery out and put it back in, it should be dead around 3
in one of the threads i read that if you want to know weather your battery is working on full capacity or not you have to get 4.20 to 4.50 V when fully charged
i have been working on that for a couple of days with different builds
but all i got was a number between 4.150 to 4.18
now the big questions is this
how much you dear friend get when your beloved hd2 is fully charged and the snap dragon inside is angry enough?
just post your voltage that you get also any idea is welcomed
I've read 4.3 is what we're after but never get past 4.197, even after clearing battery stats, doesn't seem to be too much of a problem though!
4.2 is the most I ever got on my phone. I've never wiped the battery stats, too afraid now with magldr's charging problems.
From my understanding of lithium ion batteries, they last longer at less than full charge anyway.
You also need to take tolerance into concideration.
The Voltage sensor probably has a couple of % tolerance which can also be influenced by temperature, humidity etc
So I wouldn't worry, or even compare, if one is stuck at max 4.1 to 4.3 Volts.
Fluctuating Charging Voltage
Nice thread. Guys, I need your reply...
I'm designing a portable 4 Ni-MH powered USB charger for my Xperia X8. The peak summing voltage is 5,9V for zero load.
The question:
1. Is 5,9 V tolerable to be the input voltage?
2. What is definitely the 'legal' input voltage tolerance for the X8?
3. Does any recent handset always have built-in voltage regulator to make sure the battery is charged correctly?
Thanks for sharing...
What are your true battery capacity? Has anyone run the full battery charge cycle through mAh meter? My phone was in transit for a whopping 2.5 months. It arrived with 0% battery, fully drained. It charged OK, but battery seemed too weak. I did charge it couple of times, then after a full discharge (to 0%, and shut-off) I charged it to 100% through mAh meter, and it only showed that battery took in 2232 mAh instead of factory capacity of 3100 mAh. I'm afraid that the battery has really degraded while being at 0% in winter cold (mild but sub-zero temperatures here in Canada). Or is it just because it's new and will improve after several cycles? Not sure how accurate is the mAh meter, or whether it's the right way to test. I've also installed AccuBattery, will see what it reports, but I'm not optimistic. With another phone I'd replace the battery, but you need a heat gun to open this one, it's a huge mess with a chance to kill it... So any feedback on your batteries or tests? How can I really verify that the battery is within factory specs?
Drain the battery to 0%, then use a 5v/1a charger to charge the device. Verify with an app that the phone is craging at 5v/1a, then switch off device and measure exactly how long it takes to charge to 100%. Then use this equation
Q(mAh) = 1000 × E(Wh) / V(V)
simple version:
mah = 1000 x (5 x hours charging) / 5
Then we can establish true battery capacity
I have solved this issue. Turns out that with fast charging my USB meter was giving inaccurate results. I used another charger that was not engaging fast charging, then USB meter showed normal capacity, which was almost exactly 3100 mAh stated.
midirt said:
I have solved this issue. Turns out that with fast charging my USB meter was giving inaccurate results. I used another charger that was not engaging fast charging, then USB meter showed normal capacity, which was almost exactly 3100 mAh stated.
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How are you finding the battery life? Can it always get you thought a full day?
Yes. I'm not a very aggressive user. Occasional use gets me to about 40% to 60% by the end of the day. Most people will use phone more.
hi guys, as a heavy user as i am i have 6,5 hours of SOT, so it should be enough for a heavy day use.
---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------
i forget to mention im on the AOKP ROM
Ive bought my n6p a few days back but is already a second hand.
Though its in perfect condition I would still love to take care of the battery since I know theres been a large chunks of battery cycle depleted already.
An average li-ion has about 300-500 charges before battery shows signs of deterioration.
In order to increase the battery life cycle, charging it with only 4.05 volts as conpsred to 4.20+ is the best way to take care of li-ion cells.
The problem is, the charger that comes with n6p produces volts from 4.16 as the minimum up to 4.4+ which is basicslly dtressful to the battery, plus letting it be plugged in to 100% increases temperature and so on.
I can go on.
Now, I have the habit and got an app that will chsrge the battery judt to 78% or 85% which turns down voltage just below 4.2, however there sre still instances that the voltage goes more than 4.2 even though im using a standard 900mah charger and not the rapid charger (original usb cable from huawei type a-std)
The question is, is there anyway to turn down voltage for n6p?
If not, any electrical engineer or anyone who has great knowledge backed with experience here to tell the comunity if chsrging in 4.2+ v is safe for n6p and why? Thanks
Charge voltage above 4,23ish is not good for lithium battery cells. Mine has a reported battery voltage of 4,4 volts.(!!)
As to the actual science of overcharging/over-volting lithium batteries, I don't think there's any long term 500-1000 charge cycle data. I do however have experience from radiocontrolled 1/8 scale lithium powered cars. Absolutely none of the lithium battery sellers or charger manufactors approve charging over 4,2volts. If you have a higher end charger you can push them to 4,25v-4,35v for cheaty improved off-the-line race starts but the charger will beep and complain/warn you constantly about the risks.
I was slightly concerned about charge voltage aswell, optimum charge modes for lithium cells are constant current ie 1800 mAh for this device until battery reaches 4,05 ish volts then constant voltage until 4,2v but it seems that phone manufacturers are either calibrating the measurement data or pushing the charge rate for convenience. If the latter is true you have all the right to call it planned obsolescence if the non-existent science of overvoltage charging is correct. The most accurate way to measure battery voltage would be to probe the battery directly while charging and while fully charged with a digital multimeter