Database Users

Cigarret lighter adapter & serial data cable for XDA2

Does anybody knows how (or where) can i get a serial and data cable for may XDA2 :?:
I would like to use xda2 together my Garmin GPS using a null modem as i do with my iPaq on the road :!:
Thanks in advance.

cable tastic
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.

I am up for helping with that project if you need any, The only bit I don’t know how to do would be the Audio L+r for the Car Stereo,
If you can let me know how these connect to the Stereo (as in what connector is required and the pinouts) I will try this week and make up a lead.
As for the Mic, No Proplem (This is pretty straight forward)
Tx/Rx serial, (This is pretty straight forward
Switch for 'in car', (This is pretty straight forward
Power, No Proplem (already know how to sort)
Ground. No Problem

just got my usb + cigar lighter addapter from ebay m8
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2792400395&category=58543
read on here its good for refferance

Re: cable tastic
Great!
You have an excelent idea! If it is possible and you get it please, let me know.
My issue is very simple in comparisson yours.
(Sorry about my poor english, ok!)
TDIPower said:
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Try this
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=108910&asource=106055
I bought this and replaced the 5pin P/S2 type connector with a 9 pin din, pin outs are straight forward. This however, will not power the GPS.
I already had a lead for this.
Jim Ill

It would be possible that does it works with XDA2 ?
I have a P/S2 to RSR232 adapter maybe it will be fitted in this cable, right?

I know it doesn’t look right straight way because it says its for the XDA, However, I am currently using it to connect to my GPS so I know it works.
You may wish to look for something more local to where you are?
It is not a true P/S 2 it is a 5 pin din of which I don’t remember what the pin out are all I know is that I cut the lead off and soldered a a 9 pin D type (a serial connector) after working out what the TX RX and Common were
pin 2 (rxd)
Pin 3 (txd)
Pin 5 = Grd
All other pins not used.
Hope this helps

The car charger cable comes with 21 pins for XDA? Would be possible to transform this cable in a "Y" cable as I wish?
Here, nobody knows nothing about XDA2 :!:

Sorry let me make this clear,
I use the expansys cable to connect my XDA2 to a GPS Etrex. The cable has 3 part to it, 1/ car charger
2/ The 21 Connector to the XDA2
3/ It comes with a 5pin din which can be change to a 9 pin
Is this what you want? Or are you looking just for a serial cable?

It is exactly what I want.
But, I also would use the car charger to make it, because I already have a car charger cable.
Otherwise, I would have to pay GBP 47.88 including 27.50 for shippment :!: .

In car box
The box Im looking at doing will have a 3.5mm stereo socket for the L/R Audio and the Mic. My car stereo has a 3.5mm input for MD player so thats easy. I just want to be sure which way the in car feed needs to be connected to +v or 0v (is it 6v or 12v to trigger) Does the phone RX audio come out of the L/R too. I would have an even better unit if the eTrex supplied the bare end cable with power core too as I would put the PSU for it in the box with the XDA PSU.
I figure if the XDA is capable of audio, hands free phone etc you might as well make it available if you are going to make a lead.
Ill post when I get chance to make it.
Sorry to jump your thread abit.

Ok! No problem.
Why dont you use the XDA audio output jack to connect your car stereo?
For the mic you can also use XDA's mic as hands free.

TDIPower,
the first thing you could do is get L+R audio working now without the breakout box. What you could do is use the XDA's headset connector, plug it into your XDA, and change the earphones and put them into the type of connector that goes into you car stereo! You then in effect have a in car kit. The Mic on the headset should work with easy
I am unsure what you mean about the trigger and +6 +12v can you explain.

If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

That´s it. Thanks a lot kufi :wink:
kufi said:
If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

aperali sorry I coundnt be more helpful

Jim Ill
I would like to thank you and everybody who try to help me. This forum is cool!
I´m planning to stay in this forum for a long time, and when of you comes to Rio de Janeiro (during the Carnaval :wink: ) let me show you the best places we have here!
Thanks for everybody and you.
Alex

normal audio socket
I know I can use the normal headset connector but Im trying to reduce the number of cables to plug in/have hanging all over the dash.

Sorry, Ok I have been thinking about the connectors there other ways of doing it, lets talk on [email protected] (msn)

Build your own FM antenna for better TMC reception

I hope this topic is in the right section, it's a little bit hacking, isn't it? (Otherwise feel free to move.)
Before today I experienced a poor FM radio quality with the original Touch Diamond headset, so I couldn't properly use TMC, via HyperGPS.
At my home I had a few spots with TMC reception, but sometimes moving a few inches/centimeter could result in a total loss of the TMC signal.
Driving around with iGo and TMC was even more terrible, on a 50 KM (~31 miles) trip I had 3 succesfull TMC receptions, for a few seconds that is.
With other words, HyperGPS worked perfectly, but my own reception quality was very very poor.
So after some research on the extUSB pinout, I've decided to build my own antenna.
Getting an extUSB connector
I few weeks ago I've bought a few USB to 3.5mm headphone adapters, so I could "waste" 1 if it didn't work out that well.
These connectors are highly useable for this small project.
I managed to open the connector with a screwdrawer, don't force it or the clips will break.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
As you probably can see, there are 3 wires connected in the original connector.
On pin 6 a green wire for the left speaker.
On pin 7 and 8 a yellow/gold-ish wire for the antenna and the ground (?) wire for the left and right speaker
On pin 11 a red wire for the right speaker.
With a soldering iron I was able to heat the wires a little bit, so they came loose.
When you are done, pull of the big flexible plastic part, and save it for later. (Dunno the name of it)
Wire
Now, find some wire. I've read that 1.5 mm thick cable is perfect.
I didn't have 1.5 mm, so I used a 1.0 mm thick cable. And now I'm done, I'm glad I didn't had 1.5 mm as it would be more difficult to attach to the connector.
About the cable length, some say 75 cm is perfect. At this site they say 95 cm is the ideal lenght for a 5/8ths lenght antenna. (Whatever that means tho, I'm not that technical. Something to do with the wavelength.)
My cable is currently 110 cm, and I haven't seen any negative effects yet. Maybe I can have an even better reception with a shorter cable, but at this point I don't see a reason why I should risk my current quality.
Connecting the wire
We need to solder the wire to both pin 7 and 8.
But the pinout image shows only pin 7? Indeed, but with only pin 7 connected the phone doesn't recognize a headset, thus the FM Radio isn't working. (And probably also HyperGPS, didn't test this.)
The headset detection can be skipped via a registery edit, but I think this solution is more solid, since the reg edit has to be done each time you reset your phone, or connect a real headset.
Be sure your wire doesn't hit other pins, in the worst case it could seriously damage your device.
Finishing the connector
To add a little bit more strength to the cable, I've added a little bit glue.
Re-attach the flexible plastic part we kept separate earlier.
Done
When you connect the antenna, the phone will now recognize a headset, so you can listen to the radio without attaching your headphones, and without performing a registry edit to fake the headphones.
But the best of all: I have a much better TMC reception.
I haven't tested it in a real world trip, but so far the reception indoors is perfect, without loosing the TMC signal every second.

Hi there,
I have been thinking about this for some time and hope to get around to it one of these days (latest when GNS is working )
Have you considered hooking it to your car antenna?
Perhaps you can check if signal strength changes with an FM-Tool (PowerRadio, XFMRadio - I think they show).
Only reference I have would be this post by beemer
My final goal would be to have charging+tmc-antenna permanently installed to my passive mount.

Excellent tutorial Nakebod. I agree with Schmeichler. My goal would be to be able to use my car cradle, with charger, aerial AND link to my car stereo. However, I don't know how to get to the AUX input of my car stereo anyway!!
I wish they made cars a little easier to tamper with too....
I gave up on all the TMC traffic stuff as I did get it to work with my headphones, but that had no point to me as I wanted to use my car cradle. I suppose your tutorial Nakebod would equally apply to the car cradle, but I don't really want to tamper with it. Also, because it is charging, perhaps it is already a bit crowded with wires....

I have thought about using my car antenna, but that will be a little bit more difficult.
Probably a good reception, since it's "industrial built", and hopefully the ideal length.
I don't know if you can share the antenna, because I also like to listen to the radio in my car, or I have to use two antenna's.
The pinout reference posted by beemer is the same pinout as I've linked in the startpost, the one I used for this small project.
For power + TMC I have the original HTC audio adapter, so I can use 2.5/3.5mm and extUSB "headphones", and charge it via the 2nd extUSB port.
In theory you can extend this project any way you want, attach a car power connector to it, use your car antenna, maybe if your car stereo supports it, you can even hook the "headset" part to your radio
Today I had my first real world experience with my own antenna, and after switching to a more stable station with TMC, it worked much better then before.
Not a 100% coverage, sometimes it's still searching for a signal.

Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor

shamus said:
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly my idea. Connection the car charger including antenna cable to radio power and antenna too, only leaving the usb connector for the phone coming out with integrated car-antenna.
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.

Riel said:
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest not to use the headset as basis a for this - I bought myself some extUSB connectors and started some tests (limited time).
Even a 50cm wire gives you better reception than the headset - and less sensitive to antenna movement also....

Hmm, yes, but i really never use the headphones And I think it is easier to cut 5cm cable off the connector, and solder right onto the existing cables.
Can I connect power to USB car adapter and antenna to car antenna then? (I could then even connect the audio output to car radio!)

soldering to existing cables will for sure be easier than soldering onto an extUSB - that's for sure!
I have also thought about using audio-out but utilizing aux-in for me would mean loosing my CD/MP3 so that's a nogo
I have not tested car antenna yet - but I know that mine is "live" as VW uses the antenna cable to power the amp in the antenna-socket. So you should really make sure no power is able to get to your phone on pin 7.
If I'm lucky I will be able to do some more testing this weekend....
EDIT: ok - did some tests...
Hooking pin7 to car antenna gives you quite some improvement reception-wise!
I tested two channels with PowerRadio - one jumped from 8 to 15 the other from 14 to 20
Something I noticed:
I only connected pin7 without bridging it to pin8 as a detected headset seems to dim speaker-volume a bit. Test this with headset connected for tmc and pull it out while your navi-voice is talking.
Its not much - but I can hear it - maybe its only my device....
BUT: routing FM-Radio to speaker does not seem to be possible at all without hardware thinking a headset is connected.
PowerRadio starts and tunes - but no sound. Setting headset-state to 1 via registry lets you start HTCFMRadio but no sond when changing output to speaker also.
I also soldered on a miniUSB-jack for charging... works like a charm. Although before putting in something permanent i guess I will need to get some different soldering equipment (no fun at all).

I had also thoughts of changing the connector in my car holder to an ext-usb with GND, 5V and antenna cable attached to it. So i've bought 2 usb to 3.5mm headphone adapters from ebay. The only problem was that the pins on the ext usb connectors were not all there.
So I cut and stripped the original headphone ext-usb plug and soldered (yes it was tiny!) wires to the +5v pin, GND pin (and soldered the GND wire to the shield of the connector) and soldered the pin 7 for the antenna.
The cable is working, but I have a major problem: when charging the radio is not recieving a signal. I looks like the phone is switching pin 7 off when charging. The phone I use is a Topaz (Diamond2)
Has anyone the same problem or a solution? and anyone knows a place on ebay who sells the ext-usb connectors? Then I could test it on another connector.

Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.

@dbox2
try checking if perhaps some of your grounds are bridged internally - as the original headset is not meant for charing I would not be surprised.
And read from here
I connected only 1,5 and 7 - does not make a difference if power is connected or not.

I've indeed used the connector of the headset, but I complete stripped it(including the tiny smd parts on the internal pcb) before soldering the wires to it. Tonight I've checked my ext usb connector with an multimeter. only pins 1, 5 and 7 are used. also the gnd pin 5 is connected to the shield of the plug. There is no bridge. The rest of the pins are not used, so my cable is fine! Also I made a sort of RF-filter, to filter the +5v and the power line going to the connector. It didn't make any difference.
When the telephone is connected to my self-made connector (whithout connected to +5v all is working well! The problem is when I connect the +5v wire and the diamond2 is going to charge the battery, the signal is complete lost. I found out that the charging mode is the problem cause in the WM software of the diamond2 (settings->energy) there is an option you can select that the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when connected to a PC). With that setting enabled the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when I put my self made cable to it (whith the 5v line connected to it). Then all is working well... Very strange... when I deselect that option in the energy settings, the diamond charges the battery and signal is complete lost!
I think that my diamond2 is in the software or hardware
Maybe the diamond2 is different working than the diamond1, or it could be in the rom or radio rom and maybe a setting in the register?
Very, very strange!
I use a Dutch original rom: 1.39.404.1 (47382) NLD and radio rom 4.47.25.01

ok - I have a TD1, have never selected 'do not charge when connected to pc' (this phone needs all the charging it can get )
So the ONLY differences between our two diy-adapters is that I did not hook GND to shielding of extUSB.
So just to be sure about our phones working in a different way - perhaps you could cut this connection and test again.

Adminius said:
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im also intersted to know if its possible to use any of these.
I have number 2 in my car right now..
Also, is it possible to make an antenna with no electronic equipment? I dont have a way to solder the wires and everything...how worse is it to use the regular headphones instead?

Just ordered this
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00271I3UY/ref=ox_ya_oh_product
here is another link
http://cgi.ebay.de/3in1-11-PIN-ExtU...3.l1177&_trkparms=240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
it has a longer cable so already enough antenna, hopefully. Also it has a wired through connector for pwr supply usb. Will test and report.

@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.

dbox2 said:
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable did u use to supply the 5 Volts ? The old Headphone cable ? Or did u wire some new cables to the supply.
What supply did u use, maybe its producing "noise" on the power line when charging current is drawn.
Did u try a different supply ?
The antenna cable, how is this related to the Power cable ? Is it part of the power cable or an extra cable ?
On a schematic i saw, there was a total seperation of the Pwr and the Audio part.

I just bought some ext-usb connectors from http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9078 I Hope they arrive next week.
I made my own 5v and gnd cable. It runs from the connector to an 12 to 5v power supply (5v, 2A). I've build a sort of RF filter yesterday (with a coil, a few capacitors and Ferrite? coils) so there can be no noise on the 5V and GND line running to the connector. The antenna I made is a sort of extra cable (0.75mm). (and I lead it far away from the power line and supply, only near the connector it's not possible.)
I didn't tried another power supply, It's a good idea to check it. I hope next weekend I have time to try it with another power supply I'll post the results next weekend.

@dbox2:
I was gooing to offer you one or two of the extUSBs I bought from sparkfun
You seem to have more knowledge concerning electronics than I do - could you advise me what to use and how to connect to my car antenna?
I measured the connector from my radio while turning on and the antenna reads 16.something Volts!
THX
Edit: also you might want to try older HyperGPS-versions as people are reporting the same behavior (loosing signal when powering) although older versions worked

Samsung Galaxy Tab 30 Pin Dock Connector Pinout

not sure if its been posted so here you go
Samsung Galaxy Tab 30 Pin Dock Connector Pinout
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Here's the pinout configuration of theSamsung Galaxy Tab from left to right solder pins of the dock connector.
Image courtesy of Droidangel.com
This is the technical info of Samsung Galaxy Tab Pinouts for digital and analog I/O on the 30 pin dock connector.
1 Gnd P
2 Gnd P
3 USB_DP_CON I/O
4 USB_DM_CON I/O
5 IF_CON_SENSE I
6 V_ACCESSORY_5.0V P
7 V_BUS_1 P
8 V_BUS_1 P
9 VOUT_CHARGER P
10 VOUT_CHARGER P
11 no connection
12 no connection
13 ACCESSORY_ID / USB_ID I
14 ACCESSORY_INT I
15 Gnd P
16 Gnd P
17 MHL_DP I/O
18 MHL_DM I/O
19 MHL_ID I
20 IF_RXD I
21 IF_TXD O
22 no connection?
23 AP_TV_OUT O
24 REMOTE_SENSE I
25 no connection
26 no connection
27 EAR_L_CRADLE O
28 EAR_R_CRADLE O
29 3.5_INT_TEST I
30 Gnd P

Does this mean it's possible that we'll see unofficial 3rd party adapters and accessories?

that appears to be a 7" galaxy tab?
is the pinout the same on the 10.1s?

GT-P1000 & GT-P7500 resistor values/resistor list
Hey guys.
I can't not be the only one some need Resistor values for the Galaxy Tab.
Like this for i9000 : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
plz help me with the resistor list for the Galaxy Tab (P1000 & P7500)
I know i have to use Pin 13 (USB ID) + GND Pin 15.
But the list with resistor values will be so ****in nice.
My Resistor List:
20K ohm - USB Host
7.5K ohm - Car Dock (Finde from a car dock without sound, only power)

yes they are the same
I bought a galaxy tab 7" usb connector to charge my galaxy tab 10.1 and it works
Also its able to connect to kies with it so they are the same

In order to use pin 27, 28 & 30 to get audio out, I am assuming you need to strap a resistor somewhere to get the tablet to output audio. Can some one let me know where and what value? I built an audio cable but alas no audio output

just because the charging cable is the same, does not mean the pin out is the same. the galaxy tab 7" composite cable doesn't work on the 10" tab.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------
drubrew said:
In order to use pin 27, 28 & 30 to get audio out, I am assuming you need to strap a resistor somewhere to get the tablet to output audio. Can some one let me know where and what value? I built an audio cable but alas no audio output
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here's a photo of the 30pin taken apart from the composite cable i just mentioned. let me know if you can't make out any of the resistor bands.

As the pic on is for a GT 7", i wonder if anyone has managed to get a gt 7" in download mode with making a "jig" like the one you can make for i9000?

30-pin Connector Adapter DIY Problem
I already own a standard MHL adapter cable with micro-USB plug and HDMI output, which works for various devices such as the Samsung Galaxy Note, S2, HTC Sensation, Flyer, etc. This is a good investment because the adapter is a standard one.
I don't want to buy another MHL adapter with proprietary 30-pin plug for my new Galaxy Tab. The 30-pin version MHL for tab is unreasonably much more expensive and I can't find a third party substitute at this moment.
Thus I am trying to make a connector adapter so that I can use my existing MHL adapter. Unfortunately, following the pinout diagram shown above, I was unable to make it work. I am sure that I connected the MHL_DP, MHL_DM correctly. The problem probably lies on the MHL_ID. I have tried connecting the MHL_ID to ground but it didn't work. I wonder if anyone can give me some hints? Should I add some resistors? Where can I find more information?
The attached picture shows my DIY design (not working at this moment)

@aeioo: Sorry I'm of no help, but please if you finally get it working, please, please, please, let me know.
I own a Galaxy Nexus and a Tab 7.7 I don't have the MHL adapter yet because I can't decide for which device do I want it.
What you are trying would be the perfect solution for me.
Regards

aeioo said:
The problem probably lies on the MHL_ID. I have tried connecting the MHL_ID to ground but it didn't work. I wonder if anyone can give me some hints? Should I add some resistors? Where can I find more information?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen a block diagram in page 11 of this datasheet You can see there that the MicroUSB pin 4 is connected to the MHL Proccessor, so may be that you have to connect MHL_ID to pin 4 in the MicroUSB connector.

Just a thought... Any idea if this would hit it off?
Looking at the different diagrams, and similarities between the 10.1 and 7 tab-
Thrown together a power cable with USB host, and audio/video out. Bit old school composite video but should be able to load videos from USB drive, play out to projector/TV, and NOT GO FLAT!
Not tested as waiting for the 30pin connector and some resistors, as i can imagine having to find the correct mode on pin13 will be difficult. Started out in host and powered mode here and will improve/update when i get the parts. Anyone managed to get anything similar working?
Diagram link - www . supportituk.co.uk/#/images/4562009987

Would it be possible to get the HDMI out connector working without an external power source? Or is a fix available via software?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

yincrash said:
just because the charging cable is the same, does not mean the pin out is the same. the galaxy tab 7" composite cable doesn't work on the 10" tab.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------
here's a photo of the 30pin taken apart from the composite cable i just mentioned. let me know if you can't make out any of the resistor bands.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to disasemble conector?
Thanks

Hi,
sorry if it was mentioned before, but
is it possible to use HDMI, USB OTG, charging, and audio out at the same time with the 10.1 Tab or 10.1 Note?
ed.:
And is it not possible to have USB OTG and USB out at the same time ?
ed.2: (eg. for being connected to pc and usb-stick at the same time)
I think it could really have the power of a netbook, but the connectors...
Kind Regards
Splotz

OTG for Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000
Hello, what I'm looking is enable the OTG function For Samsung Galaxy Tab GT-P1000L.
The only thing I found was a video where this function is achieved activate, but need an external power, and update to version CyanogenMod 9 from HumberOS, for enable the usb-host function.
Is there any way to do this but without the need for external power supply?
And sorry if my english is bad.

Pin 6 Current ability
Does anyone know how much current can be drawn from pin 6 of the 30 pin connector?
Thanks for any info
Matt

reply
hey guys you can check this site out http://techno-fix.com/ . i found my pinout searches there. there are very usefull things

What is it exactly that tells the tablet there is an official charger connected?

is it possible to use the connector to wake up the tab? all of my physical buttons are dead so right now the only way to wake up my tab is by pluging it to any power source.

[Q] hacking docks to provide audio, hdmi or sync (MHL and stuff)

I've spent some time searching looking for something on the subject, but haven't found anything that seems to cover it (does that make me special (I did laugh at the video), but enough off topic).
so I specifically have the Samsung Galaxy Note. though I realise in a lot of ways its really just a big S2 in most regards. and I suspect several other devises that would be comparible.
I'm currentlty using a dual charging dock station which I bought cheaply of amazon, and that gives me sync and power. having looked inside the case there loads of spare room in there. and so I'm wondering about playing around with the MHL adapter and ideally something like the audio out with the official samsung dock.
from what research I've done the note senses what type of dock its in by the resistance on pins 4 and 5. now even with my basic electrical skills it seems rather easy to put in a 3 way switch to select between these
obviously the guts for the HDMI out would be from a MHL adapter, and that should be possible to power through the standard connectors on the current dock. but what I cant seem to find would be the associated parts for the audio (dont want to buy the official samsung dock just to rip it apart) (one thread on here about stripping the cable back to power and then the 3 inner wires were left, right and ground, but didn't see any evidence of that method working)
the audio aspect has another relevence for me, as I'm also wondering about a note dock/speaker set up (cheap 2.1 speakers, rehouse the sub to a case that incorperates the mUSB connector, audio components, and power, so that other than speaker cables and one power cable that'd be it (currently use a Sony NWA-3000 plugged into old pc speakers for such night time listening)
so thoughts and advise (specifically on the audio aspect)

Thatz pretty impressive. I too have that sony dock. I think about modification of it so that i can plug in my hd2 in it. Ie just to put an micro usb plug out from it, so that i can charge my phone while i plug in 3.5mm jack from the sony dock.
Thatz all about mine.. now letz look into ur case.
Cant u try out 3.5 mm jack for audio o/p?
Or else u can check out pinouts.ru for pin config of hdmi, coz, u r going to take out hdmi from sg note any way. So u can rip the cable apart and take out audio and video wires, connect the video cables to tv and audio to dock/ amp.
But i suggest that 3.5 jack will be the easier way.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App

So I don't know about it, I would say that it really isn't that feasible. Besides putting a different resistance you would also need to route the data lines to a different location to the MHL to HMDI converter.
If you were to do the video or USB you couldn't do audio. From what I understand there is a IC that looks at the resistance on the ID pin and puts the audio signals on the data lines. Once again you run into the same problem that you have with the video adapter, routing the data lines.

got a brief schematic for layout. I'm buying some cheap bits now (MHL adapter, USB soundcard, USB OTG cable)
first a few explanations on the schematic, software I used didn't have many switches on it, so plan to use a 4 pole double throw like this rather than the 2 sets of 2p2t shown in the diagram
secondly, not sure if I need to short pins 4&5 for OTG, still reading stuff
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Yap, u got it.. but also provide external power supply of exactly 5v in usb host mode, so as to power slave devices.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?

The MHL lives in the phones hardware is the simplest. If you find the Galaxy S2 hack pack it will show you a block diagram of how the MHL exists there.

syin16 said:
guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as giritrobbins said it is hardware based.
it shares the microUSB connector, but uses an entirely different signalling. hence why it has to be separated out. otherwise a hub would do every thing I'm trying to do here

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

Pin 5 (ground) can be carried through to everything.
OTG requires ID (pin4) to be connected to Gnd (pin 5).
In the diagram above S2 is not really needed.
If you want to switch electronically, there are lots of ICs for doing that.
Here is one picked entirely at random: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS/FSA3000.pdf
MHL will be the trouble spot, USB is much more forgiving.

I've seen docks like the one you're tying to build on eBay with built in MHL; is that what you're after?

Well, if you look at the service manuals, they have lots of details about where stuff is coming from.
The MHL is all digital coming from the HDMI chip. There is however audio, which you'd need to enable in the snd driver as
a RX enabled, and also it looks like the I2S would have to set up the microUSB chip to export the analog
audio through the USB port.
At least in the case of the 8960 systems (Galaxy S3, OneX?) this is the USB driver setup.
The audio is coming directly from the qualcomm codec chip and you'd have to enable it with
the tabla stuff, then the USB, but it might be programmed to sense USB headset.
---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------
Basically, if you want analog output only, you need to use the MUS_I2C to tell the Fairchild USB analog mux to enable the
audio lines. Then you would need an audio amp because the codec output can only make it to the analog mux
and I'm not sure what kind of buffering is on the uUSB chip. But if you are going this route, you might as well use
the headphone jack. It's not digital unless you use the MHL.

Two things to bear in mind when demultiplexing the USB connector:
The analog audio out ("CarKit") has a signal that goes below ground.
Some electronic demultiplexors might not handle that.
The MHL signal goes into the Gigahertz.
Don't try switching that with a Radio Shack relay or connecting using loose wires.
MHL uses the two data lines for TMDS data and the ID pin for CBUS.

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

Close to Studio Quality Audio on Samsung Android devices

So I've been working out how to get studio quality audio on Android with a powered mic for a while now and I finally have it. I'm using XLR to Android with a few adapters, some custom, some purchased. I wanted to share some pictures of how this setup works.
You can check out the previous threadhere, where I showed a resistive method. Today, we're going to use a capacitive method. The hookups are basically the same, however, this method will lead to higher ouptut.
It all starts with a great mic. You will probly already have a mic to use if you're looking at this guide. I can recommend two if you are in the market. The Blue Yeti seems to be the best quality microphone I could find, This microphone can work on USB or XLR, which means, with a proper cable, this single mic will work on the desktop as well as an Android device. The other mic, pictured below is an Audio Technica ATR-6550 http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M . While these are both awesome mics, they serve very different purposes. The Blue Yeti is renowned for its high quality audio reproduction and the ATR-6550 is extremely directional which allows for very focused quality in a noisy environment. Both of these mics will see use from me in various conditions.
To build the Samsung mic to 1/4" adapter, you will need:
A sacrificial Samsung/Apple headphone set with built-in mic. As long as mic works on your device, this should work as well.
Ceramic Capcitor 0.10 uF with marking 104 (or similar small capcitor) Mouser.com part number: 81-RDER71E104K0K103B
A Female 1/4" inline audio jack Radio Shack Model Number 274-141
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For XLR Mic:
An A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 6-feet is more than enough for most circumstances)
For Dual XLR Mic like Yeti:
2 - A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" 2-female to 1-male Y adapter Radio Shack Model Number 42-2568
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 2-feet is more than enough for me)
For non-XLR mics
you will just locate an appropriate connector to get mono output. For example if your microphone is a stereo mic with a 1/8" plug, you will need to get something like this
For 5V powered mics like Yeti
You can use a USB OTG adapter for many devices. For those devices which do not provide USB power, you can buy a USB OTG with power, or use this cool hack by redoano
Microphone power
Many modern mics accept 5V USB power. To allow flexibility of use between usb wall-power, desktop/laptop use and USB-OTG power from your targeted device, you can use a zip-tie to strap the USB-OTG adapter 6-8 inches from the end of the USB cable. This allows you to use the USB cable in normal mode, or apply the adapter at any time to power the mic from the device being used. This trick ensures that you never forget the stupid adapter, and the 6-8" placement from the end ensures the cable isn't bent too extraneously.
Creating the Samsung/Apple standard 4-pole adapter
This adapter will work on many other devices, however it's only a known standard on Samsung and Apple devices. I've included a pinout below, but you can check out this thread for more information.
microphone in action
Here you can find a video and a few images of the Blue Yeti which Google+ was nice enough to turn into an animated GIF for me.
conclusion and results
Due to the range of DACs(Digital to Analog Converters) in various devices, your results will vary. I find that the Galaxy Camera's headphone port provides a bit more on the high-end than the low so post-processing to remove hiss and improve bass is required. The same result has been reproduced on all four of my microphones. The Galaxy S3/4 seems a bit more level but experiences the same high-pass effect which is also correctable in post-processing.
This is a great mod if you're looking to move the microphone closer to the source or you're looking to put some hardware to use. I also hope this encourages more people to make those Android videos I love, using their Android devices. Everyone has one, now get a mic and make some cool videos.

When I tried a 0.1 µF capacitor, it was just because one was sitting on my desk.
I didn't put a lot of thought into the value.
The combination of series capacitance and effective input resistance makes a high pass filter.
It's hard to estimate the input resistance of a cell phone without measuring it dynamically.
Since the bias circuit can supply a milliamp or two at 2.5 V, let's go with a worst case of 1 k input resistance.
Let's find the corner frequency of our high pass filter:
F = 1 / (2 * pi * R * C)
0.1 µF and 1 k gives us a 3 dB frequency of 1592 Hz :crying:
That's why there is no bass.
I tried with a 470 µF capacitor (also just randomly on my desk)
The signal level and the bass were much better than with the 0.1 µF
That's not surprising, since the 3 dB frequency is now 0.3 Hz!
Ok, 470 µF is a bit overkill.
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
A tantalum capacitior is small and will work fine.
Just make sure to have the positive end going to the cell phone input, the negative end going to the mic.

Renate NST said:
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting R? Also, this circuit should be calcualted where Frms is run against an LC-pi circuit where L is of unknown value. Note the transformer on this image.
I suppose the calculation shoud be roughly the same with resistance as inductance, but even still, the DAC is not the greatest in the device headset ports and the stock headsets suffer the same problems.
I will try a higher F cap though to see if the quality can improve. This was the smallestcap I had available at the time though which could fit into the housing.

The worst case figure for R of 1 k is based on one scenario for generating the bias current to the electret mic FET.
In very old audio systems the supply voltage would be 6 to 12 volts with a fairly high resistor value.
In most middle-of-the-road PC sound cards, there is a filtered 2.5 volt source fed through a resistor of 1 or 2 k.
In most cell phones, the bias supply is controlled by whether you are in talking/recording mode or idle.
Some cell phones could have a constant current supply which is controlled to keep the average value of the input at the bias point of 2.5 volts.
In this case, the effective resistance would be a function of how much bias current you are drawing.
With a capacitively coupled input, you would be drawing no bias current and the input could have a very high effective resistance.
I guess I'll have to make a few more measurements.

@Renate NST I did some experimentation. Theres a definate difference between the .1uF to 50uF, but 50uF to 100uF did not produce much of a difference. I think 100uF is sufficient. What say you?
Here is a video which starts with .1uF, moves to stock galaxy camera, 50uF, and finally 100uF.
These parts were collected from spare circuit boards and low voltage power supplies.

I think it sounds better with the larger caps.
A 10 µF should really be plenty though.
The difference between 0.1 µF and 10 µF is a factor of 100
Going bigger will not make a big difference.
I think that your cell phone must have a pretty high input resistance already.
It didn't sound horrible with the 0.1 µF

USB microphone /will it work with USB input and 3.5 mm output cable?
Hi I am interested in using the blue yeti to screen record on a rootedins 5.This tutorial was on the yeti xlr but the original has a USB output.If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable will it work with screen recording?

1512tootsie said:
If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.

Here's the link
Renate NST said:
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cable :3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable by VIMVIP
The cable has a USB input and a 3.5 mm output
I have a nexus 5 that's rooted.I also have a otg cable that works with a mouse USB flash drive and keyboard.Is there any pro condenser microphone that works well with android?

I looked at that adapter and as far as I can tell from the non-English description it's a purely mechanical adapter for car stereos that use a 4 pole 3.5 mm jack on the front panel as a USB connection.

Is any way to re-route via software the Mic to right pins? SImpler: That the phone "ears" the right output?

Perhaps, I'm blind, but I do not see any schematics on how/where connect the capcitor...

Can I just use a normal 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter ?

Hi Adam, Hi Renate,
you will probably get a better adapter from an TRRS video cable. These have better shielded wires than the headphones ones.
I need imperatively an audio input that has no level compression.
Did you care on that? don't more or less all phone mic circuitry compress the signal anyway?

How is it possible?

Thank you for this! It was just what I was looking for!
I'm posting my experience doing this as it may help others who are also trying to do the same (and not know much about electronics, like me ).
I have an condenser microphone that has a USB plug (for power input) and 3.5mm Tip-Ring-Sleeve (TRS) jack (for signal output) on the end of the cable. When I plug the microphone into the computer to record and power the microphone, (or use a wall socket (via a 5v phone charging adapter) for power) there is noticeable hum in the recording. So I wanted to record and power the mic using my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 android smartphone because 1) powering it by the phone would remove A/C power hum, and 2) the recording process is much easier, as I use the phone to record video too. (Note: you can record by plugging the mic into a laptop running on battery to remove the hum, but using my phone was what I really wanted to record with as it is so much easier)
I opened up an old CD ROM drive and took out the audio headphone socket. I salvaged a few capacitors from an old circuit board lying around, and cut the 3.5mm jack plug off some broken headphones.
I then wired up the circuit as best I could from following 1) this post, 2) the two posts referred to in this post:a) https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612 and b) http://www.doityourselfgadgets.com/2014/09/how-to-connect-external-microphone-to.html
I did some testing on a breadboard (I tried adding a 1000 Ohm resistor, and moved the capacitor around the circuit, I used a 0.1 micro Farad capacitor, then changed to a 50micro Farad capacitor and noticed a benefit to the recording volume.)
What I called "testing" someone with electronics knowledge should read as "rolling dice" ...but this picture shows what I ended up with that worked for me (with the finished item after soldering and applying some heatshrink tubing to cover and insulate the adapter).