Database Users

Will a Hermes Car Charger work on the Kaiser?

I remember reading in a review long time ago that it wouldn't work. Just wanted to confirm this. Thanks.

All Hermes Chargers and Headset Adapters work fine, some cradles work OK too but the fit isn't perfect.

RemE said:
All Hermes Chargers and Headset Adapters work fine, some cradles work OK too but the fit isn't perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info!

what about the batteries from the hermes ?

Woah I forgot all about this thread.
That free HTC car charger that AT&T sent for the 8525 didn't work on the Tilt.

ZzFDKzZ said:
Woah I forgot all about this thread.
That free HTC car charger that AT&T sent for the 8525 didn't work on the Tilt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked fine on mine.
new_ppc_user said:
what about the batteries from the hermes ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, they won't fit.

ZzFDKzZ said:
I remember reading in a review long time ago that it wouldn't work. Just wanted to confirm this. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any Mini-Usb charger should work on the Tilt or any other device with a Mini-Usb port. I have used my Razr's on my Tilt and Hermes and on a sony and a nokia.

I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
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As we see the USB Connectors are on the Top and the "specialized audio connectors" on the bottom. Notice Pin 1 is Power, No other are power.
Now lets look at Mini-USB Series B, the standard USB connector on these Chargers.
Source: http://www.accesscomms.com.au/reference/USB.htm
Notice When you hold the Mini-USB Type B Connector with the Shorter part down that Pin 1 is to the far right. Pin 1 is also Power.
Code:
Mini-USB Type-B Pinout & Cable Color Code
Pin Wire Color Function
1 Red V BUS (5V)
2 White D-
3 Green D+
4 Not connected ID
5 Black Ground
Now we look at the ExtUSB diagram notice the bezel near the end with Pin 5. Notice Pin 1, which we know is Power, is to the "left." It matches up perfectly with Pin 1 Power on the USB Connector.
Also notice on Mini-USB Type B that there is no Pins on the Bottom to interfere with The Extra Pins on the HTC ExtUSB port.
So as long as the charger only provides power on Pin 1, which any good charger will, it will work with the Kaiser.
wikipedia's USB Article said:
The USB specification provides a 5 V (volts) supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines. Initially, a device is only allowed to draw 100 mA. It may request more current from the upstream device in units of 2 mA up to a maximum of 500 mA.
[...]
On-The-Go and Battery Charging Specification both add new powering modes to the USB specification. The latter specification allows USB devices to draw up to 1.5 A from hubs and hosts that follow the Battery Charging Specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So If the Charger Provides up to 1.5A via Pin 1, it should work.
*Caveat: I don't know for certain that the HTC Kaiser draws 1.5A, but I'm sure it does. Hypothetically, on a USB bus the Bus will not provide more power than the Device Actively draws. So if for some obtuse reason HTC went against all Smart Design and Engineering, and created a Device with a Mini-USB Type B connector that couldn't handle 1.5A. A charging only charger that feeds it 1.5A it may blow it out.
I could not find any information on this. If someone knows or has a data sheet that says the HTC Kaiser can draw up to 1.5A then any charger that doesn't provide more then 1.5A will work fine. Any decent Charger maker would know that USB devices cannot handle more then 1.5A. Thusly not providing more then 1.5A on a charging-only charger.

JimmyMcGee said:
I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
[/I]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said.

JimmyMcGee said:
I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
As we see the USB Connectors are on the Top and the "specialized audio connectors" on the bottom. Notice Pin 1 is Power, No other are power.
Now lets look at Mini-USB Series B, the standard USB connector on these Chargers.
Source: http://www.accesscomms.com.au/refer...5 came with does not work with the AT&T Tilt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Build your own FM antenna for better TMC reception

I hope this topic is in the right section, it's a little bit hacking, isn't it? (Otherwise feel free to move.)
Before today I experienced a poor FM radio quality with the original Touch Diamond headset, so I couldn't properly use TMC, via HyperGPS.
At my home I had a few spots with TMC reception, but sometimes moving a few inches/centimeter could result in a total loss of the TMC signal.
Driving around with iGo and TMC was even more terrible, on a 50 KM (~31 miles) trip I had 3 succesfull TMC receptions, for a few seconds that is.
With other words, HyperGPS worked perfectly, but my own reception quality was very very poor.
So after some research on the extUSB pinout, I've decided to build my own antenna.
Getting an extUSB connector
I few weeks ago I've bought a few USB to 3.5mm headphone adapters, so I could "waste" 1 if it didn't work out that well.
These connectors are highly useable for this small project.
I managed to open the connector with a screwdrawer, don't force it or the clips will break.
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As you probably can see, there are 3 wires connected in the original connector.
On pin 6 a green wire for the left speaker.
On pin 7 and 8 a yellow/gold-ish wire for the antenna and the ground (?) wire for the left and right speaker
On pin 11 a red wire for the right speaker.
With a soldering iron I was able to heat the wires a little bit, so they came loose.
When you are done, pull of the big flexible plastic part, and save it for later. (Dunno the name of it)
Wire
Now, find some wire. I've read that 1.5 mm thick cable is perfect.
I didn't have 1.5 mm, so I used a 1.0 mm thick cable. And now I'm done, I'm glad I didn't had 1.5 mm as it would be more difficult to attach to the connector.
About the cable length, some say 75 cm is perfect. At this site they say 95 cm is the ideal lenght for a 5/8ths lenght antenna. (Whatever that means tho, I'm not that technical. Something to do with the wavelength.)
My cable is currently 110 cm, and I haven't seen any negative effects yet. Maybe I can have an even better reception with a shorter cable, but at this point I don't see a reason why I should risk my current quality.
Connecting the wire
We need to solder the wire to both pin 7 and 8.
But the pinout image shows only pin 7? Indeed, but with only pin 7 connected the phone doesn't recognize a headset, thus the FM Radio isn't working. (And probably also HyperGPS, didn't test this.)
The headset detection can be skipped via a registery edit, but I think this solution is more solid, since the reg edit has to be done each time you reset your phone, or connect a real headset.
Be sure your wire doesn't hit other pins, in the worst case it could seriously damage your device.
Finishing the connector
To add a little bit more strength to the cable, I've added a little bit glue.
Re-attach the flexible plastic part we kept separate earlier.
Done
When you connect the antenna, the phone will now recognize a headset, so you can listen to the radio without attaching your headphones, and without performing a registry edit to fake the headphones.
But the best of all: I have a much better TMC reception.
I haven't tested it in a real world trip, but so far the reception indoors is perfect, without loosing the TMC signal every second.

Hi there,
I have been thinking about this for some time and hope to get around to it one of these days (latest when GNS is working )
Have you considered hooking it to your car antenna?
Perhaps you can check if signal strength changes with an FM-Tool (PowerRadio, XFMRadio - I think they show).
Only reference I have would be this post by beemer
My final goal would be to have charging+tmc-antenna permanently installed to my passive mount.

Excellent tutorial Nakebod. I agree with Schmeichler. My goal would be to be able to use my car cradle, with charger, aerial AND link to my car stereo. However, I don't know how to get to the AUX input of my car stereo anyway!!
I wish they made cars a little easier to tamper with too....
I gave up on all the TMC traffic stuff as I did get it to work with my headphones, but that had no point to me as I wanted to use my car cradle. I suppose your tutorial Nakebod would equally apply to the car cradle, but I don't really want to tamper with it. Also, because it is charging, perhaps it is already a bit crowded with wires....

I have thought about using my car antenna, but that will be a little bit more difficult.
Probably a good reception, since it's "industrial built", and hopefully the ideal length.
I don't know if you can share the antenna, because I also like to listen to the radio in my car, or I have to use two antenna's.
The pinout reference posted by beemer is the same pinout as I've linked in the startpost, the one I used for this small project.
For power + TMC I have the original HTC audio adapter, so I can use 2.5/3.5mm and extUSB "headphones", and charge it via the 2nd extUSB port.
In theory you can extend this project any way you want, attach a car power connector to it, use your car antenna, maybe if your car stereo supports it, you can even hook the "headset" part to your radio
Today I had my first real world experience with my own antenna, and after switching to a more stable station with TMC, it worked much better then before.
Not a 100% coverage, sometimes it's still searching for a signal.

Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor

shamus said:
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly my idea. Connection the car charger including antenna cable to radio power and antenna too, only leaving the usb connector for the phone coming out with integrated car-antenna.
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.

Riel said:
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest not to use the headset as basis a for this - I bought myself some extUSB connectors and started some tests (limited time).
Even a 50cm wire gives you better reception than the headset - and less sensitive to antenna movement also....

Hmm, yes, but i really never use the headphones And I think it is easier to cut 5cm cable off the connector, and solder right onto the existing cables.
Can I connect power to USB car adapter and antenna to car antenna then? (I could then even connect the audio output to car radio!)

soldering to existing cables will for sure be easier than soldering onto an extUSB - that's for sure!
I have also thought about using audio-out but utilizing aux-in for me would mean loosing my CD/MP3 so that's a nogo
I have not tested car antenna yet - but I know that mine is "live" as VW uses the antenna cable to power the amp in the antenna-socket. So you should really make sure no power is able to get to your phone on pin 7.
If I'm lucky I will be able to do some more testing this weekend....
EDIT: ok - did some tests...
Hooking pin7 to car antenna gives you quite some improvement reception-wise!
I tested two channels with PowerRadio - one jumped from 8 to 15 the other from 14 to 20
Something I noticed:
I only connected pin7 without bridging it to pin8 as a detected headset seems to dim speaker-volume a bit. Test this with headset connected for tmc and pull it out while your navi-voice is talking.
Its not much - but I can hear it - maybe its only my device....
BUT: routing FM-Radio to speaker does not seem to be possible at all without hardware thinking a headset is connected.
PowerRadio starts and tunes - but no sound. Setting headset-state to 1 via registry lets you start HTCFMRadio but no sond when changing output to speaker also.
I also soldered on a miniUSB-jack for charging... works like a charm. Although before putting in something permanent i guess I will need to get some different soldering equipment (no fun at all).

I had also thoughts of changing the connector in my car holder to an ext-usb with GND, 5V and antenna cable attached to it. So i've bought 2 usb to 3.5mm headphone adapters from ebay. The only problem was that the pins on the ext usb connectors were not all there.
So I cut and stripped the original headphone ext-usb plug and soldered (yes it was tiny!) wires to the +5v pin, GND pin (and soldered the GND wire to the shield of the connector) and soldered the pin 7 for the antenna.
The cable is working, but I have a major problem: when charging the radio is not recieving a signal. I looks like the phone is switching pin 7 off when charging. The phone I use is a Topaz (Diamond2)
Has anyone the same problem or a solution? and anyone knows a place on ebay who sells the ext-usb connectors? Then I could test it on another connector.

Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.

@dbox2
try checking if perhaps some of your grounds are bridged internally - as the original headset is not meant for charing I would not be surprised.
And read from here
I connected only 1,5 and 7 - does not make a difference if power is connected or not.

I've indeed used the connector of the headset, but I complete stripped it(including the tiny smd parts on the internal pcb) before soldering the wires to it. Tonight I've checked my ext usb connector with an multimeter. only pins 1, 5 and 7 are used. also the gnd pin 5 is connected to the shield of the plug. There is no bridge. The rest of the pins are not used, so my cable is fine! Also I made a sort of RF-filter, to filter the +5v and the power line going to the connector. It didn't make any difference.
When the telephone is connected to my self-made connector (whithout connected to +5v all is working well! The problem is when I connect the +5v wire and the diamond2 is going to charge the battery, the signal is complete lost. I found out that the charging mode is the problem cause in the WM software of the diamond2 (settings->energy) there is an option you can select that the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when connected to a PC). With that setting enabled the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when I put my self made cable to it (whith the 5v line connected to it). Then all is working well... Very strange... when I deselect that option in the energy settings, the diamond charges the battery and signal is complete lost!
I think that my diamond2 is in the software or hardware
Maybe the diamond2 is different working than the diamond1, or it could be in the rom or radio rom and maybe a setting in the register?
Very, very strange!
I use a Dutch original rom: 1.39.404.1 (47382) NLD and radio rom 4.47.25.01

ok - I have a TD1, have never selected 'do not charge when connected to pc' (this phone needs all the charging it can get )
So the ONLY differences between our two diy-adapters is that I did not hook GND to shielding of extUSB.
So just to be sure about our phones working in a different way - perhaps you could cut this connection and test again.

Adminius said:
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im also intersted to know if its possible to use any of these.
I have number 2 in my car right now..
Also, is it possible to make an antenna with no electronic equipment? I dont have a way to solder the wires and everything...how worse is it to use the regular headphones instead?

Just ordered this
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00271I3UY/ref=ox_ya_oh_product
here is another link
http://cgi.ebay.de/3in1-11-PIN-ExtU...3.l1177&_trkparms=240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
it has a longer cable so already enough antenna, hopefully. Also it has a wired through connector for pwr supply usb. Will test and report.

@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.

dbox2 said:
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable did u use to supply the 5 Volts ? The old Headphone cable ? Or did u wire some new cables to the supply.
What supply did u use, maybe its producing "noise" on the power line when charging current is drawn.
Did u try a different supply ?
The antenna cable, how is this related to the Power cable ? Is it part of the power cable or an extra cable ?
On a schematic i saw, there was a total seperation of the Pwr and the Audio part.

I just bought some ext-usb connectors from http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9078 I Hope they arrive next week.
I made my own 5v and gnd cable. It runs from the connector to an 12 to 5v power supply (5v, 2A). I've build a sort of RF filter yesterday (with a coil, a few capacitors and Ferrite? coils) so there can be no noise on the 5V and GND line running to the connector. The antenna I made is a sort of extra cable (0.75mm). (and I lead it far away from the power line and supply, only near the connector it's not possible.)
I didn't tried another power supply, It's a good idea to check it. I hope next weekend I have time to try it with another power supply I'll post the results next weekend.

@dbox2:
I was gooing to offer you one or two of the extUSBs I bought from sparkfun
You seem to have more knowledge concerning electronics than I do - could you advise me what to use and how to connect to my car antenna?
I measured the connector from my radio while turning on and the antenna reads 16.something Volts!
THX
Edit: also you might want to try older HyperGPS-versions as people are reporting the same behavior (loosing signal when powering) although older versions worked

[Q] hacking docks to provide audio, hdmi or sync (MHL and stuff)

I've spent some time searching looking for something on the subject, but haven't found anything that seems to cover it (does that make me special (I did laugh at the video), but enough off topic).
so I specifically have the Samsung Galaxy Note. though I realise in a lot of ways its really just a big S2 in most regards. and I suspect several other devises that would be comparible.
I'm currentlty using a dual charging dock station which I bought cheaply of amazon, and that gives me sync and power. having looked inside the case there loads of spare room in there. and so I'm wondering about playing around with the MHL adapter and ideally something like the audio out with the official samsung dock.
from what research I've done the note senses what type of dock its in by the resistance on pins 4 and 5. now even with my basic electrical skills it seems rather easy to put in a 3 way switch to select between these
obviously the guts for the HDMI out would be from a MHL adapter, and that should be possible to power through the standard connectors on the current dock. but what I cant seem to find would be the associated parts for the audio (dont want to buy the official samsung dock just to rip it apart) (one thread on here about stripping the cable back to power and then the 3 inner wires were left, right and ground, but didn't see any evidence of that method working)
the audio aspect has another relevence for me, as I'm also wondering about a note dock/speaker set up (cheap 2.1 speakers, rehouse the sub to a case that incorperates the mUSB connector, audio components, and power, so that other than speaker cables and one power cable that'd be it (currently use a Sony NWA-3000 plugged into old pc speakers for such night time listening)
so thoughts and advise (specifically on the audio aspect)

Thatz pretty impressive. I too have that sony dock. I think about modification of it so that i can plug in my hd2 in it. Ie just to put an micro usb plug out from it, so that i can charge my phone while i plug in 3.5mm jack from the sony dock.
Thatz all about mine.. now letz look into ur case.
Cant u try out 3.5 mm jack for audio o/p?
Or else u can check out pinouts.ru for pin config of hdmi, coz, u r going to take out hdmi from sg note any way. So u can rip the cable apart and take out audio and video wires, connect the video cables to tv and audio to dock/ amp.
But i suggest that 3.5 jack will be the easier way.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App

So I don't know about it, I would say that it really isn't that feasible. Besides putting a different resistance you would also need to route the data lines to a different location to the MHL to HMDI converter.
If you were to do the video or USB you couldn't do audio. From what I understand there is a IC that looks at the resistance on the ID pin and puts the audio signals on the data lines. Once again you run into the same problem that you have with the video adapter, routing the data lines.

got a brief schematic for layout. I'm buying some cheap bits now (MHL adapter, USB soundcard, USB OTG cable)
first a few explanations on the schematic, software I used didn't have many switches on it, so plan to use a 4 pole double throw like this rather than the 2 sets of 2p2t shown in the diagram
secondly, not sure if I need to short pins 4&5 for OTG, still reading stuff
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Yap, u got it.. but also provide external power supply of exactly 5v in usb host mode, so as to power slave devices.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?

The MHL lives in the phones hardware is the simplest. If you find the Galaxy S2 hack pack it will show you a block diagram of how the MHL exists there.

syin16 said:
guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as giritrobbins said it is hardware based.
it shares the microUSB connector, but uses an entirely different signalling. hence why it has to be separated out. otherwise a hub would do every thing I'm trying to do here

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

Pin 5 (ground) can be carried through to everything.
OTG requires ID (pin4) to be connected to Gnd (pin 5).
In the diagram above S2 is not really needed.
If you want to switch electronically, there are lots of ICs for doing that.
Here is one picked entirely at random: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS/FSA3000.pdf
MHL will be the trouble spot, USB is much more forgiving.

I've seen docks like the one you're tying to build on eBay with built in MHL; is that what you're after?

Well, if you look at the service manuals, they have lots of details about where stuff is coming from.
The MHL is all digital coming from the HDMI chip. There is however audio, which you'd need to enable in the snd driver as
a RX enabled, and also it looks like the I2S would have to set up the microUSB chip to export the analog
audio through the USB port.
At least in the case of the 8960 systems (Galaxy S3, OneX?) this is the USB driver setup.
The audio is coming directly from the qualcomm codec chip and you'd have to enable it with
the tabla stuff, then the USB, but it might be programmed to sense USB headset.
---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------
Basically, if you want analog output only, you need to use the MUS_I2C to tell the Fairchild USB analog mux to enable the
audio lines. Then you would need an audio amp because the codec output can only make it to the analog mux
and I'm not sure what kind of buffering is on the uUSB chip. But if you are going this route, you might as well use
the headphone jack. It's not digital unless you use the MHL.

Two things to bear in mind when demultiplexing the USB connector:
The analog audio out ("CarKit") has a signal that goes below ground.
Some electronic demultiplexors might not handle that.
The MHL signal goes into the Gigahertz.
Don't try switching that with a Radio Shack relay or connecting using loose wires.
MHL uses the two data lines for TMDS data and the ID pin for CBUS.

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

UART Access on Sprint Optimus G

Hi,
I'm making this thread because i have seen alot of bricks for this phone including my own. What seems to be most annoying is, my phone boots, shows LG Logo splash and after that completely black screen whereas flashing the Mako (Nexus4) Rom via LGNPST works, it boots without any issues. So the idea is to see the startup log and identify whats been causing the problem in actual.
The UART pads on this phone are completely not made to be accessible by normal means and below is an attached pic of the same
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As you can see, the molex is just barely a cm long and contains 15pads on each side. The problem is however, m not very much familiar with UART/Serial stuff. I have hooked up a serial connection with the pogoplug sometimes back and all m aware of is basic programs used and Profilic USB-Serial converter (Nokia CA-42 Data cable in mycase). Right now i'm having a USB-RSR232(Com Port) converter at my place and i'm unable to get any outputs to putty/terminal. Any info regarding this will be hugely appreciated.

I know nothing about the specifics of this phone,
but be aware that many UART interfaces are not at 5V levels but at 3.3V, 2V or lower.
What does a voltmeter say on the TXD pin?
I got my Nook's kernel console UART working using a home-brew/cheesy RS-232 converter.
I don't even remember what the levels are, but it works fine.

Thanks for the reply, i will to gather the readings later today. One more question, the current Signal converter m having right now i.e, USB-RS232 will work or do i need to get anything else?

If I read that correctly, you only have a USB to RS-232 converter?
Regular RS-232 swings at least + and - 5V and will blow things out.
A "data cable" usually uses "TTL level" which swings between ground and some fraction of +5V, maybe 3.5V, 2.8 being the nominal threshold.
I've got one for a GPS puck that uses a Prolific chip.
I've used that as a debugger hookup for an ATMega32u4 which runs on 5V.
Nowadays I have a couple of transistors on a board for going from my Nook to a regular PC RS-232 input.

Below readings were taken with battery and USB cable connected.
TX- 0.03v ~ 1.65v
RX- 0.03v ~1.65v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

i'm having a Profilic USB-Serial converter which is having a USB type B connector and a com port connector on each sides. I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.

If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?

funkym0nk3y said:
I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should connect ground of the phone with ground of your serial-converter/PC.

Ground is connected from the PC, i have tried with connecting ground from riff box, no help.

Renate NST said:
If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RXD and TXD readings were taken with both USB cable from PC and battery connected.

btw how did you find/identify the UART-pins and why are sure that you have the correct pins?
I'm very interested in this process because I have an Xiaomi MI2 with nearly the same hardware.

i located them using the service manual so m indeed sure they are correct.

M having this converter
and i guess that is perfect for serial output, but the thing is m still unable to get any outputs from the phone, i'm attaching the svc manual for the same incase some1 is willing to help out.
http://d-h.st/agQ
The UART is accessible via 3.5mm earphone jack in Nexus 4 and not in any of the og variants.

Well, your adapter is fine and dandy, but I don't see any photos of a level shifter.
If you connect some of the DB9 pins on that adapter to something inside your cell phone you are going to blow something up.
See this post for a photo of my setup: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=35328483&postcount=11

Hey, thanks for the reply, m not connecting the pin9. M just connecting the pin2 and pin3 on rx and tx pads of my phone,below is a pic of my current setup.

That last photo does not look like the first photo.
I'm not talking about pin #9, I am talking about the 9-pin connector.
Yes, you should be using pins #2, #3 & #5 but don't connect them directly to your phone!
What comes out of the 9-pin connector is higher voltage that will blow out the circuits on your phone.
You measured it yourself, the phone works on levels less than 2 volts.
Now measure what is coming out of the 9 pin connector.
Scary, eh?
You need a level shifter.
Besides the voltages being different, the polarity is different.

I guess this should be fine ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JY-MCU-...157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aebfc73f5

funkym0nk3y said:
I guess this should be fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is a [5V logic level] <=> [3.3V logic level] converter.
What's coming out of the 9-pin connector is [RS-232 level].
What your phone wants apparently is [2.5V logic level]
So what you need is a [2.5V logic level] <=> [RS-232 level] converter that inverts.
Here, in summary are the logic standards:
Code:
Standard Zero One
---------- ---- -----
RS-232 5.0V -5.0V (notice that this signal goes [b]minus[/b])
Cheesy 5.0V 0.0V (we're cheesy and don't have a minus supply)
5V logic 0.0V 5.0V
3.3V logic 0.0V 3.3V
2.5V logic 0.0V 2.5V
If you have a "USB data cable" that uses "TTL levels" [5V logic level]
then all you would need would be a [5V logic level] <=> [2.5V logic level] converter.
If you want to stick with your 9-pin adapter you will have to have something that converts from/to [RS-232 level].
If you were building this thing seriously, you would use a MAX232 chip or something that would convert from/to [5V level].
If you were going to be cheesy, you can drive your 9-pin connector with [Cheesy level].
This is logic which does not meet the spec for [RS-232] level but is "good enough" to work.
I mean, what is it that you want out of this? 90% is to get a log out while booting.
Then you only have to do one side of the deal, a [2.5V level] => [Cheesy level] that inverts.
Enough for now...

Reading this thread, I'd be surprised if you have not already blown-up something in your phone. Randomly connecting HW to the inside of your phone without knowing the difference of +/- 15V RS-232 levels and 1.8V CMOS logic is a sure killer!
But if its still working...here are a few comments:
1. We'd need to see the entire PCB, to help you identify the proper UART ports.
2. If it's based on Qualcomm, and anything similar to their reference design, you probably don't even need to go inside to get debug output. You might be able to get it via a modified micro-USB jig...
3. You say you have schematics, why don't you post that instead?
4. Get yourself a proper serial cable, ASAP. (You will for sure find other occasions where it is useful.) I always preach for the FTDI products...
5. The port you show, look like a JTAG port...or is it a strip-connector?
6. Never, ever, solder directly to your PCB, use connectors!

Nothing is damaged, i already measured the voltage coming out from rx and tx of the converter which i connected with the phone, however i was not aware that i might need to use a level shifter and m sure that might be the deal breaker. Anyway, i got my phone running after 3weeks and would like to use it normally for sometime now, i will be doing the this again once i get the proper setup at my place. Also the UART ports are correct as they are obtained by the service manual.
I have posted the service manual in the thread to avoid all the confusions already. Finding the receptacles is not easy for me as i'm unable to find them locally or online, samsung receptacles are easily available here in my country but they aren't seems suitable for this molex thats the only reason i did soldering on the molex legs itself.. Yes you are correct, the port which is posted is a jtag port and the wires connected are coming from my jtagbox.

USB not working and wifi not turning on

Hello,
First of all, I apologize for my English, I do not speak English at the base.
If I write here it is because I have a problem with my new car radio. The wifi no longer turns on and the USB ports no longer work.
i think the problem is hardware
Can you help me solve the problem?
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MCU : CSN2_D_12282019_111900
Android 9 PX6 DSP
64Gb 4GB Android 9

That's a nice heatsink. First off that's a recent unit have you contacted your seller for warranty replacement?
I don't know about the CSN2 MCU but if it's anything like an MTC MCU the MTC schematic I have shows all the USB devices connect to the MCU controller. The WiFi card is connected through USB to that controller. I don't think the controller is the issue but all the USB ports and WiFi get their power from a 5V DC-DC converter (MP1584). If you can try and check if there's 5V on the USB ports without shorting anything out that should tell you if that's where the problem is.
Then there's 3 possibilities the DC converter is not getting a signal on the enable pin, the chip blew up or one of it's external component has a broken connection. Considering they solder everything with that crap RoHS solder it's more likely the last one.
All that circuitry looks to be located on the left side of the board. Inspect closely looking for something that seems odd or burnt... If you are handy with a soldering iron you could start touching up all the large pins like on that smaller black electrolytic capacitor. Test if it works. If not re-solder the surface mount components then test again. Leave the chips until lasts. And use 60/40 tin solder sparingly.

nic2k said:
That's a nice heatsink. First off that's a recent unit have you contacted your seller for warranty replacement?
I don't know about the CSN2 MCU but if it's anything like an MTC MCU the MTC schematic I have shows all the USB devices connect to the MCU controller. The WiFi card is connected through USB to that controller. I don't think the controller is the issue but all the USB ports and WiFi get their power from a 5V DC-DC converter (MP1584). If you can try and check if there's 5V on the USB ports without shorting anything out that should tell you if that's where the problem is.
Then there's 3 possibilities the DC converter is not getting a signal on the enable pin, the chip blew up or one of it's external component has a broken connection. Considering they solder everything with that crap RoHS solder it's more likely the last one.
All that circuitry looks to be located on the left side of the board. Inspect closely looking for something that seems odd or burnt... If you are handy with a soldering iron you could start touching up all the large pins like on that smaller black electrolytic capacitor. Test if it works. If not re-solder the surface mount components then test again. Leave the chips until lasts. And use 60/40 tin solder sparingly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Thank you for your reply.
The USB port powers my USB key, it turns on when I plug it in but it is not detected.
I have the impression that it is the data that is not processed. Do you know where the USB and WIFI chip is?
I put another photo.
I contacted the seller I am waiting for a return.

I think I found the USB chip, it is on the px6 card.
I have 5v in in at terminal 23
I don't know if it changes anything

That CSN2 MCU is very different than the MTC ones. It looks like the WiFi and bluetooth are on separate modules and it looks like the bluetooth module is that vertical blue board. The WiFi antenna lead is on the opposite edge of the MCU board. There's a good chance you'll see another board near that wire on the bottom side, that will be the WiFi module.
The GL850 chip is a 4 port USB hub, it's interesting they have it on the SoM instead of the MCU but that also means all the USB ports go through the header connector. It's possible they have the WiFi module connected to the hub. That would make a convenient common point of failure. Check the GL850 for 3.3V between V33 and GND. There should also be 3.3V on the AVDD and DVDD pins. If not try to re-solder the pins on the large square components near it and the crystal too (top left).
There's an odd looking reflection on the SoM header connector 7th pin from the left in the MCU picture. Also, it looks like someone reworked the solder on the chip a little more to the left and did an awful job of it. Just a note about the header connector. The female side is a bit fragile and a few people have had troubles after removing the SoM. Be careful to insert and remove it straight down. Going a bit crooked can cause loss of contact with the pins.

moonshine972 said:
Hello,
First of all, I apologize for my English, I do not speak English at the base.
If I write here it is because I have a problem with my new car radio. The wifi no longer turns on and the USB ports no longer work.
i think the problem is hardware
Can you help me solve the problem?
[
IMG]https://zupimages.net/up/20/14/cic0.jpg[/IMG]
MCU : CSN2_D_12282019_111900
Android 9 PX6 DSP
64Gb 4GB Android 9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Claim warranty, send back to reseller.

Hello guys, I don't start another thread because I have a similar problem with a PX 5 unit.
So, long story short:
I bought 2 years ago an unit from Isudar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32852058644.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dMlYtQt . It has Android 8 and 4Gb+32Gb(I guess they updated model) which came defective(the LEDs from buttons panel didn't light up). Contact seller and they sent me a new LED board to replace. I have replaced the board, the LEDs were good, but the screen start to flicker(not very bad, but annoying). Contact seller again, and they sent another screen to replace. After replacing screen, the flickering didn't stop, but seller stops responding messages. Because of the time spent to receive goods from China, I couldn't start a dispute, so got a defective unit. I didn't used the unit for a period of time because I got another car which has a bluetooth unit.
A few days ago tried to start unit but got other problems:
- The Wi-Fi don't work anymore(option to enable Wi-Fi is gray and cannot be enabled, MAC address is 02:00:00:00, IP unaveilable)
- The Bluetooth don't work( device name and PIN are blank, the search couldn't find nearby devices)
- The USB ports(it has 3 USBs) don't work. The unit has a SD Card slot which is accesible.
I try to repair it(at least Wi-Fi, bluetooth and USB) and that's why I need your help.
As far as I can see, the Wi-Fi module is A5BC6 3214, and the circuit it is soldered is marked GOC-MD-705D and read that this module is resposible for Wi-Fi and BT. Can you recommend an replacement for this module? I have searched on aliexpress but got few results and I don't know what to choose.
https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...&orderId=95366376728004&productId=32852058644 is the original unit link.