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Cigarret lighter adapter & serial data cable for XDA2

Does anybody knows how (or where) can i get a serial and data cable for may XDA2 :?:
I would like to use xda2 together my Garmin GPS using a null modem as i do with my iPaq on the road :!:
Thanks in advance.

cable tastic
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.

I am up for helping with that project if you need any, The only bit I don’t know how to do would be the Audio L+r for the Car Stereo,
If you can let me know how these connect to the Stereo (as in what connector is required and the pinouts) I will try this week and make up a lead.
As for the Mic, No Proplem (This is pretty straight forward)
Tx/Rx serial, (This is pretty straight forward
Switch for 'in car', (This is pretty straight forward
Power, No Proplem (already know how to sort)
Ground. No Problem

just got my usb + cigar lighter addapter from ebay m8
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2792400395&category=58543
read on here its good for refferance

Re: cable tastic
Great!
You have an excelent idea! If it is possible and you get it please, let me know.
My issue is very simple in comparisson yours.
(Sorry about my poor english, ok!)
TDIPower said:
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Try this
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=108910&asource=106055
I bought this and replaced the 5pin P/S2 type connector with a 9 pin din, pin outs are straight forward. This however, will not power the GPS.
I already had a lead for this.
Jim Ill

It would be possible that does it works with XDA2 ?
I have a P/S2 to RSR232 adapter maybe it will be fitted in this cable, right?

I know it doesn’t look right straight way because it says its for the XDA, However, I am currently using it to connect to my GPS so I know it works.
You may wish to look for something more local to where you are?
It is not a true P/S 2 it is a 5 pin din of which I don’t remember what the pin out are all I know is that I cut the lead off and soldered a a 9 pin D type (a serial connector) after working out what the TX RX and Common were
pin 2 (rxd)
Pin 3 (txd)
Pin 5 = Grd
All other pins not used.
Hope this helps

The car charger cable comes with 21 pins for XDA? Would be possible to transform this cable in a "Y" cable as I wish?
Here, nobody knows nothing about XDA2 :!:

Sorry let me make this clear,
I use the expansys cable to connect my XDA2 to a GPS Etrex. The cable has 3 part to it, 1/ car charger
2/ The 21 Connector to the XDA2
3/ It comes with a 5pin din which can be change to a 9 pin
Is this what you want? Or are you looking just for a serial cable?

It is exactly what I want.
But, I also would use the car charger to make it, because I already have a car charger cable.
Otherwise, I would have to pay GBP 47.88 including 27.50 for shippment :!: .

In car box
The box Im looking at doing will have a 3.5mm stereo socket for the L/R Audio and the Mic. My car stereo has a 3.5mm input for MD player so thats easy. I just want to be sure which way the in car feed needs to be connected to +v or 0v (is it 6v or 12v to trigger) Does the phone RX audio come out of the L/R too. I would have an even better unit if the eTrex supplied the bare end cable with power core too as I would put the PSU for it in the box with the XDA PSU.
I figure if the XDA is capable of audio, hands free phone etc you might as well make it available if you are going to make a lead.
Ill post when I get chance to make it.
Sorry to jump your thread abit.

Ok! No problem.
Why dont you use the XDA audio output jack to connect your car stereo?
For the mic you can also use XDA's mic as hands free.

TDIPower,
the first thing you could do is get L+R audio working now without the breakout box. What you could do is use the XDA's headset connector, plug it into your XDA, and change the earphones and put them into the type of connector that goes into you car stereo! You then in effect have a in car kit. The Mic on the headset should work with easy
I am unsure what you mean about the trigger and +6 +12v can you explain.

If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
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That´s it. Thanks a lot kufi :wink:
kufi said:
If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

aperali sorry I coundnt be more helpful

Jim Ill
I would like to thank you and everybody who try to help me. This forum is cool!
I´m planning to stay in this forum for a long time, and when of you comes to Rio de Janeiro (during the Carnaval :wink: ) let me show you the best places we have here!
Thanks for everybody and you.
Alex

normal audio socket
I know I can use the normal headset connector but Im trying to reduce the number of cables to plug in/have hanging all over the dash.

Sorry, Ok I have been thinking about the connectors there other ways of doing it, lets talk on [email protected] (msn)

Exec noisy car audio output when powered by car adapter

Having previously owned a IIs and having a standard usb cradle in my car run from a usb connectored "cigarette lighter adapter", I'm used to using my devices as a portable "car stereo". I even wired it up to replace my old crap car stereo, using a small "cheap boy-racer style" £30 stereo power amp under the dash. This has been great for the last year. I get in the car, dock the xda IIs into the cradle, plug in the headphone socket which is wired into the amp and hey presto, music - and tom tom prompts through the car speakers.
Recently I've been eyeing up the xda exec(JasJar/Universal) and after getting a second hand colleague to buy my IIis, decided to get the new device. Obviously the shorter battery life is a bit of a shock compared to my old one, but I was pleasantly suprised that
1) The audio output seems a better quality
2) The new device no longer needed a custom USB cradle plinth or gooseneck holder, ... I could place the "open clam" in the recess in my instrument panel, to the right of my speedo. Basically sitting just behind the steering wheel, which also solves the night-time reflection issues of a bright display.
Just one problem, I discovered that the USB sync cable supplied with the new device doesnt seem to enable charging to the exec when I plugged it into the 12Volt to USB adapter that worked with the XDA IIs that I wired into my dashboard.
So I decided to buy a new car power adapter for the new Exec, egged on by installing the great "mort player" which has an ideal "large button" interface on a black background which is ideal for use in the car.... and it doesnt forget the playlist like media player 10 seems to do each time you run it...
However, When the car power adapter arrived today, (from expansys)
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125511
To my dismay it is very noisy! the audio output to my amp sounds great with just the headphone output to my mini under dash amplifier, but only on battery power. But when the adapter is supplying power, the audio output becomes "crackly" Any electonics boffins have any suggestions to remove the "noise" with capacitors, if so what type and where should I put them, on the audio, or inline with the cigarette power adapter dc input somewhere, or should I just send it back and try and source a better quality adapter?
Expansys also do 2 other models -
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125969
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125970
Does anyone know if these are as noisy as the other one? Does anyone else have a similar setup?
Thanks in advance
Derek

you have a ground loop. in america, we use negative as the ground, so be carefull with what I'm telling you (posative is ground in some countries).
What you need to do is run the amp and cigarette lighter off the same ground(s) and possibly the same feeds (supply voltage). Make sure you fuse the lines appropriately, or you might fry something.
I would suggest installing a secondary cigarett lighter outlet somewhere convenient (so you don't cross any other circuts in your car, and burn stuff out), and run it off the same points that your amplifier gets it's power. Fuse the new outlet with the appropriate fuse (should be 5 or 10 amps), and give your new setup a whirl. It's a cheap alternative for you to try (should be about $10 or 8 euro?)
Good luck, and remember, NOT MY FAULT WHAT YOU DO> TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!

I agree with him ^
JAmes

Strangely - today the noise is gone... hmm... very strange...
perhaps it was a solar flare, or another explosion at hemel
or more likely - perhaps there was a loose connection somewhere!
Thanks for all the advice guys, I will certainly make sure I avoid any ground loops and ground the audio on the same physical connection as the car earth. I'll check this at the weekend when I have some daylight to work in!. I'll do this when wiring the new adapter in properly - I can't bear it hanging out of the lighter socket with the near the indicator stalk!
I can say the Exec is great device though... Its a far better solution for car audio - and no leaving an expensive hifi in the car to be stolen.
Hopefully someone else is inspired by this post to also use the device in this way. If you want plenty of storage for a full install of the tomtom uk map and loads of music, you'll be interested to hear that you can actually get a 2 gig card now from ebuyer for about £60!
http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/prod...vd19wcm9kdWN0X292ZXJ2aWV3&product_uid=103013
Cheers
Derek

This is very valuable info
interestingfellow said:
you have a ground loop. in america, we use negative as the ground, so be carefull with what I'm telling you (posative is ground in some countries).
What you need to do is run the amp and cigarette lighter off the same ground(s) and possibly the same feeds (supply voltage). Make sure you fuse the lines appropriately, or you might fry something.
I would suggest installing a secondary cigarett lighter outlet somewhere convenient (so you don't cross any other circuts in your car, and burn stuff out), and run it off the same points that your amplifier gets it's power. Fuse the new outlet with the appropriate fuse (should be 5 or 10 amps), and give your new setup a whirl. It's a cheap alternative for you to try (should be about $10 or 8 euro?)
Good luck, and remember, NOT MY FAULT WHAT YOU DO> TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

connect a usb plug to the car electrical system?

I still have an old Nokia carkit in my car and I was thinking of replacing it with one of those brodit cradles. My main problem is that I don't want to use the cigar lighter for power.
Is it possible to just cut the usb connector of the cigar lighter loader cable, connect it to one of the cables from my old Nokia carkit and use this for loading?

Dont do that, its possible you could fry your device or at least do some damage.
I am biased, yes, as I retail the Brodit kits, i would advise spending a little more and getting the 971671 Molex Hard Wired kit that allows you to safley hard wire it to your cars power system, and also power any BT GPS reciver with an additional Molex adapter lead that fits your unit (Holux, Edo, Haicom etc)
Hope that helps, if you need any advice, drop me a line,
Thanks,
Bryson

I think I'll look into that option, it seems a lot safer and easier.
Is it hard to do the fixed installation yourself or is it better to go to the car dealer and have them install it?

Hi,
It depends on whether you have easy access to the console beind your stereo head unit, and how familiar you are with the wiring, not all cars are obvious as to which to attach the loose end cables too!,
- also, if it is a car you care for and need to keep warranty on, I would sincerley recommend going to a dealer, it should not be too expensive, its quite a quick job, depending on your car, and if you do go the Brodit route, you can fit the Proclip and Molex holder yourself, thats a 2 minute job,
Hope that helps,
Thanks again,
Bryson

DO NOT CONNECT YOUR MINIUSB CABLE TO THE CARS MAINS
Yes, you will probably destroy your Prophet. USB powered devices run at 5V, a normal computer USB port can provide a maximum of 500ma. The voltage in your car is 12 volts and a direct connection can provide whatever current that leg is fused for. Don't worry about the current DO worry about the voltage. The cigar lighter adapter most people use contains a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage to 5v and a very low current fuse. The one sitting on my desk is 2A (2000ma). If you want a do it yourself solution you can get a 7805 voltage regulator at any Radio Shack or any other electronics supply store. You wont even need a heat sink as the Prophet is desined to only draw a few hundred milliamps and the 7805 is rated at 1A. There are only 3 leads on the 7805 one for the 12V in, one for the 5v out and a common/ground. These are not the most efficent regulators but will be fine in your car.
-j

USB Mini to (the other) USB Mini (?)

I have a a USB mini extension lead, so I'm trying to plug in a 3-to-1 adapter to it. So male USB mini, the a-symetrical type (flat one side) to a female USB mini, the symetrical type (wings on both sides). Obviously this doesn't fit!
So is there a USB Mini (female a-symetrical) to USB mini (male symetrical) adapter?
Or could someone at least tell me their proper names so I can google it?

What are you trying to achieve? If it is to increase the cable length between the 3in1 and the Kaiser, I think you would need an ExtUSB patch lead with all 11 pins wired to retain the functionality of the 3in1. I don't know if these leads even exist.
The Asymetrical female socket, like the one on the base of the Kaiser, is double sided on the internal plastic "island" and has 5 contacts on one side and 6 contacts on the other.
The power and data are on the top 5 connectors.
The audio in/out & talk/end are on the bottom 6 connectors.
This is known as ExtUSB and is peculiar to HTC devices.
The Symetrical plug/socket is standard mini USB and will only ever have power and data connections. The mini USB plug only connects to the top 5 connectors in an ExtUSB socket.

Ouch, my dreams of the perfect in-car system dashed! Thanks wizzard that's really explained it very well.
The objective is to have a nice looking car install with only one wire leading to the Kaiser, and the 3-in-one hidden. So ideally:
Power \/
Audio > 3-in-one >> USB extension >> Kaiser
Hands free /\
It was hard enough finding the mini USB extension, so as you say an ExtUSB extension lead may not even exist

I purchased this adaptor for less than £10 from ebay. It ticks all the boxes for me and is the most discrete adaptor I could find. The 3in1 adaptors like this one dont come with a mic so wont work as a hands free without additional adaptors.
My intention is to have the plug fixed to a Brodit mount. The cable is no thicker than headphone cable. This 90cm cable will route to behind the steering wheel on the cowling. The adaptor is flat and low profile with the answer/hang up button on the top. Easily pressed through the steering wheel spokes. The audio 3.5mm and mini USB leads plug in at right angles to each other but will easily route out of site, behind the dash to USB car charger and 3.5mm MP3 In socket on the head unit.
It all works as expected, and even at Motorway speeds callers can hear me clearly. Voice Command works fine, TomTom and Media Player sound great. My only problem is alternator whine when charging, which I think is just an earthing problem. When I get it all properly finished I will post some photos.
After work, wife, kids etc. have finished with me.

Thanks Wizzard. Not a bad solution, and the best so far without the existence of an ExtUSB extension lead.
My only problem with it is that (I assume) it forces the kaiser into handfree mode even when all I was to do is charge and listen to music from the 3.5mm connection.
Again, I am assuming here, but I thought the second adapter you cite would only initiate hands free when I plug in the hands free into its port. I could be wrong on that one though.
Perhaps my issue is a small price to pay for 8gbs of music in the car

foaf said:
I thought the second adapter you cite would only initiate hands free when I plug in the hands free into its port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont have the bulky 3in1 to test, sorry. For me when listening to music and TomTom the audio mutes when I take a call and then resumes seamlessly on hang up without needing to physically touch the Kaiser. I only need to touch the Kaiser to press the Voice Command key once to launch programs and initiate calls.

wizzzard said:
I purchased this adaptor for less than £10 from ebay. It ticks all the boxes for me and is the most discrete adaptor I could find. The 3in1 adaptors like this one dont come with a mic so wont work as a hands free without additional adaptors.
My intention is to have the plug fixed to a Brodit mount. The cable is no thicker than headphone cable. This 90cm cable will route to behind the steering wheel on the cowling. The adaptor is flat and low profile with the answer/hang up button on the top. Easily pressed through the steering wheel spokes. The audio 3.5mm and mini USB leads plug in at right angles to each other but will easily route out of site, behind the dash to USB car charger and 3.5mm MP3 In socket on the head unit.
It all works as expected, and even at Motorway speeds callers can hear me clearly. Voice Command works fine, TomTom and Media Player sound great. My only problem is alternator whine when charging, which I think is just an earthing problem. When I get it all properly finished I will post some photos.
After work, wife, kids etc. have finished with me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Unfortunately the link to the item you have is broken...
I'm trying exactly what you wanna do, I bought this extension.
Is this the same of you?
It works, but I have annoying noise on audio when it's connected to the USB power jacket.
How to fix this?
Thanks a lot.

Close to Studio Quality Audio on Samsung Android devices

So I've been working out how to get studio quality audio on Android with a powered mic for a while now and I finally have it. I'm using XLR to Android with a few adapters, some custom, some purchased. I wanted to share some pictures of how this setup works.
You can check out the previous threadhere, where I showed a resistive method. Today, we're going to use a capacitive method. The hookups are basically the same, however, this method will lead to higher ouptut.
It all starts with a great mic. You will probly already have a mic to use if you're looking at this guide. I can recommend two if you are in the market. The Blue Yeti seems to be the best quality microphone I could find, This microphone can work on USB or XLR, which means, with a proper cable, this single mic will work on the desktop as well as an Android device. The other mic, pictured below is an Audio Technica ATR-6550 http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M . While these are both awesome mics, they serve very different purposes. The Blue Yeti is renowned for its high quality audio reproduction and the ATR-6550 is extremely directional which allows for very focused quality in a noisy environment. Both of these mics will see use from me in various conditions.
To build the Samsung mic to 1/4" adapter, you will need:
A sacrificial Samsung/Apple headphone set with built-in mic. As long as mic works on your device, this should work as well.
Ceramic Capcitor 0.10 uF with marking 104 (or similar small capcitor) Mouser.com part number: 81-RDER71E104K0K103B
A Female 1/4" inline audio jack Radio Shack Model Number 274-141
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For XLR Mic:
An A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 6-feet is more than enough for most circumstances)
For Dual XLR Mic like Yeti:
2 - A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" 2-female to 1-male Y adapter Radio Shack Model Number 42-2568
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 2-feet is more than enough for me)
For non-XLR mics
you will just locate an appropriate connector to get mono output. For example if your microphone is a stereo mic with a 1/8" plug, you will need to get something like this
For 5V powered mics like Yeti
You can use a USB OTG adapter for many devices. For those devices which do not provide USB power, you can buy a USB OTG with power, or use this cool hack by redoano
Microphone power
Many modern mics accept 5V USB power. To allow flexibility of use between usb wall-power, desktop/laptop use and USB-OTG power from your targeted device, you can use a zip-tie to strap the USB-OTG adapter 6-8 inches from the end of the USB cable. This allows you to use the USB cable in normal mode, or apply the adapter at any time to power the mic from the device being used. This trick ensures that you never forget the stupid adapter, and the 6-8" placement from the end ensures the cable isn't bent too extraneously.
Creating the Samsung/Apple standard 4-pole adapter
This adapter will work on many other devices, however it's only a known standard on Samsung and Apple devices. I've included a pinout below, but you can check out this thread for more information.
microphone in action
Here you can find a video and a few images of the Blue Yeti which Google+ was nice enough to turn into an animated GIF for me.
conclusion and results
Due to the range of DACs(Digital to Analog Converters) in various devices, your results will vary. I find that the Galaxy Camera's headphone port provides a bit more on the high-end than the low so post-processing to remove hiss and improve bass is required. The same result has been reproduced on all four of my microphones. The Galaxy S3/4 seems a bit more level but experiences the same high-pass effect which is also correctable in post-processing.
This is a great mod if you're looking to move the microphone closer to the source or you're looking to put some hardware to use. I also hope this encourages more people to make those Android videos I love, using their Android devices. Everyone has one, now get a mic and make some cool videos.

When I tried a 0.1 µF capacitor, it was just because one was sitting on my desk.
I didn't put a lot of thought into the value.
The combination of series capacitance and effective input resistance makes a high pass filter.
It's hard to estimate the input resistance of a cell phone without measuring it dynamically.
Since the bias circuit can supply a milliamp or two at 2.5 V, let's go with a worst case of 1 k input resistance.
Let's find the corner frequency of our high pass filter:
F = 1 / (2 * pi * R * C)
0.1 µF and 1 k gives us a 3 dB frequency of 1592 Hz :crying:
That's why there is no bass.
I tried with a 470 µF capacitor (also just randomly on my desk)
The signal level and the bass were much better than with the 0.1 µF
That's not surprising, since the 3 dB frequency is now 0.3 Hz!
Ok, 470 µF is a bit overkill.
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
A tantalum capacitior is small and will work fine.
Just make sure to have the positive end going to the cell phone input, the negative end going to the mic.

Renate NST said:
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting R? Also, this circuit should be calcualted where Frms is run against an LC-pi circuit where L is of unknown value. Note the transformer on this image.
I suppose the calculation shoud be roughly the same with resistance as inductance, but even still, the DAC is not the greatest in the device headset ports and the stock headsets suffer the same problems.
I will try a higher F cap though to see if the quality can improve. This was the smallestcap I had available at the time though which could fit into the housing.

The worst case figure for R of 1 k is based on one scenario for generating the bias current to the electret mic FET.
In very old audio systems the supply voltage would be 6 to 12 volts with a fairly high resistor value.
In most middle-of-the-road PC sound cards, there is a filtered 2.5 volt source fed through a resistor of 1 or 2 k.
In most cell phones, the bias supply is controlled by whether you are in talking/recording mode or idle.
Some cell phones could have a constant current supply which is controlled to keep the average value of the input at the bias point of 2.5 volts.
In this case, the effective resistance would be a function of how much bias current you are drawing.
With a capacitively coupled input, you would be drawing no bias current and the input could have a very high effective resistance.
I guess I'll have to make a few more measurements.

@Renate NST I did some experimentation. Theres a definate difference between the .1uF to 50uF, but 50uF to 100uF did not produce much of a difference. I think 100uF is sufficient. What say you?
Here is a video which starts with .1uF, moves to stock galaxy camera, 50uF, and finally 100uF.
These parts were collected from spare circuit boards and low voltage power supplies.

I think it sounds better with the larger caps.
A 10 µF should really be plenty though.
The difference between 0.1 µF and 10 µF is a factor of 100
Going bigger will not make a big difference.
I think that your cell phone must have a pretty high input resistance already.
It didn't sound horrible with the 0.1 µF

USB microphone /will it work with USB input and 3.5 mm output cable?
Hi I am interested in using the blue yeti to screen record on a rootedins 5.This tutorial was on the yeti xlr but the original has a USB output.If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable will it work with screen recording?

1512tootsie said:
If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.

Here's the link
Renate NST said:
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cable :3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable by VIMVIP
The cable has a USB input and a 3.5 mm output
I have a nexus 5 that's rooted.I also have a otg cable that works with a mouse USB flash drive and keyboard.Is there any pro condenser microphone that works well with android?

I looked at that adapter and as far as I can tell from the non-English description it's a purely mechanical adapter for car stereos that use a 4 pole 3.5 mm jack on the front panel as a USB connection.

Is any way to re-route via software the Mic to right pins? SImpler: That the phone "ears" the right output?

Perhaps, I'm blind, but I do not see any schematics on how/where connect the capcitor...

Can I just use a normal 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter ?

Hi Adam, Hi Renate,
you will probably get a better adapter from an TRRS video cable. These have better shielded wires than the headphones ones.
I need imperatively an audio input that has no level compression.
Did you care on that? don't more or less all phone mic circuitry compress the signal anyway?

How is it possible?

Thank you for this! It was just what I was looking for!
I'm posting my experience doing this as it may help others who are also trying to do the same (and not know much about electronics, like me ).
I have an condenser microphone that has a USB plug (for power input) and 3.5mm Tip-Ring-Sleeve (TRS) jack (for signal output) on the end of the cable. When I plug the microphone into the computer to record and power the microphone, (or use a wall socket (via a 5v phone charging adapter) for power) there is noticeable hum in the recording. So I wanted to record and power the mic using my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 android smartphone because 1) powering it by the phone would remove A/C power hum, and 2) the recording process is much easier, as I use the phone to record video too. (Note: you can record by plugging the mic into a laptop running on battery to remove the hum, but using my phone was what I really wanted to record with as it is so much easier)
I opened up an old CD ROM drive and took out the audio headphone socket. I salvaged a few capacitors from an old circuit board lying around, and cut the 3.5mm jack plug off some broken headphones.
I then wired up the circuit as best I could from following 1) this post, 2) the two posts referred to in this post:a) https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612 and b) http://www.doityourselfgadgets.com/2014/09/how-to-connect-external-microphone-to.html
I did some testing on a breadboard (I tried adding a 1000 Ohm resistor, and moved the capacitor around the circuit, I used a 0.1 micro Farad capacitor, then changed to a 50micro Farad capacitor and noticed a benefit to the recording volume.)
What I called "testing" someone with electronics knowledge should read as "rolling dice" ...but this picture shows what I ended up with that worked for me (with the finished item after soldering and applying some heatshrink tubing to cover and insulate the adapter).