So I've been working out how to get studio quality audio on Android with a powered mic for a while now and I finally have it. I'm using XLR to Android with a few adapters, some custom, some purchased. I wanted to share some pictures of how this setup works.
You can check out the previous threadhere, where I showed a resistive method. Today, we're going to use a capacitive method. The hookups are basically the same, however, this method will lead to higher ouptut.
It all starts with a great mic. You will probly already have a mic to use if you're looking at this guide. I can recommend two if you are in the market. The Blue Yeti seems to be the best quality microphone I could find, This microphone can work on USB or XLR, which means, with a proper cable, this single mic will work on the desktop as well as an Android device. The other mic, pictured below is an Audio Technica ATR-6550 http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M . While these are both awesome mics, they serve very different purposes. The Blue Yeti is renowned for its high quality audio reproduction and the ATR-6550 is extremely directional which allows for very focused quality in a noisy environment. Both of these mics will see use from me in various conditions.
To build the Samsung mic to 1/4" adapter, you will need:
A sacrificial Samsung/Apple headphone set with built-in mic. As long as mic works on your device, this should work as well.
Ceramic Capcitor 0.10 uF with marking 104 (or similar small capcitor) Mouser.com part number: 81-RDER71E104K0K103B
A Female 1/4" inline audio jack Radio Shack Model Number 274-141
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For XLR Mic:
An A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 6-feet is more than enough for most circumstances)
For Dual XLR Mic like Yeti:
2 - A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" 2-female to 1-male Y adapter Radio Shack Model Number 42-2568
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 2-feet is more than enough for me)
For non-XLR mics
you will just locate an appropriate connector to get mono output. For example if your microphone is a stereo mic with a 1/8" plug, you will need to get something like this
For 5V powered mics like Yeti
You can use a USB OTG adapter for many devices. For those devices which do not provide USB power, you can buy a USB OTG with power, or use this cool hack by redoano
Microphone power
Many modern mics accept 5V USB power. To allow flexibility of use between usb wall-power, desktop/laptop use and USB-OTG power from your targeted device, you can use a zip-tie to strap the USB-OTG adapter 6-8 inches from the end of the USB cable. This allows you to use the USB cable in normal mode, or apply the adapter at any time to power the mic from the device being used. This trick ensures that you never forget the stupid adapter, and the 6-8" placement from the end ensures the cable isn't bent too extraneously.
Creating the Samsung/Apple standard 4-pole adapter
This adapter will work on many other devices, however it's only a known standard on Samsung and Apple devices. I've included a pinout below, but you can check out this thread for more information.
microphone in action
Here you can find a video and a few images of the Blue Yeti which Google+ was nice enough to turn into an animated GIF for me.
conclusion and results
Due to the range of DACs(Digital to Analog Converters) in various devices, your results will vary. I find that the Galaxy Camera's headphone port provides a bit more on the high-end than the low so post-processing to remove hiss and improve bass is required. The same result has been reproduced on all four of my microphones. The Galaxy S3/4 seems a bit more level but experiences the same high-pass effect which is also correctable in post-processing.
This is a great mod if you're looking to move the microphone closer to the source or you're looking to put some hardware to use. I also hope this encourages more people to make those Android videos I love, using their Android devices. Everyone has one, now get a mic and make some cool videos.
When I tried a 0.1 µF capacitor, it was just because one was sitting on my desk.
I didn't put a lot of thought into the value.
The combination of series capacitance and effective input resistance makes a high pass filter.
It's hard to estimate the input resistance of a cell phone without measuring it dynamically.
Since the bias circuit can supply a milliamp or two at 2.5 V, let's go with a worst case of 1 k input resistance.
Let's find the corner frequency of our high pass filter:
F = 1 / (2 * pi * R * C)
0.1 µF and 1 k gives us a 3 dB frequency of 1592 Hz :crying:
That's why there is no bass.
I tried with a 470 µF capacitor (also just randomly on my desk)
The signal level and the bass were much better than with the 0.1 µF
That's not surprising, since the 3 dB frequency is now 0.3 Hz!
Ok, 470 µF is a bit overkill.
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
A tantalum capacitior is small and will work fine.
Just make sure to have the positive end going to the cell phone input, the negative end going to the mic.
Renate NST said:
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting R? Also, this circuit should be calcualted where Frms is run against an LC-pi circuit where L is of unknown value. Note the transformer on this image.
I suppose the calculation shoud be roughly the same with resistance as inductance, but even still, the DAC is not the greatest in the device headset ports and the stock headsets suffer the same problems.
I will try a higher F cap though to see if the quality can improve. This was the smallestcap I had available at the time though which could fit into the housing.
The worst case figure for R of 1 k is based on one scenario for generating the bias current to the electret mic FET.
In very old audio systems the supply voltage would be 6 to 12 volts with a fairly high resistor value.
In most middle-of-the-road PC sound cards, there is a filtered 2.5 volt source fed through a resistor of 1 or 2 k.
In most cell phones, the bias supply is controlled by whether you are in talking/recording mode or idle.
Some cell phones could have a constant current supply which is controlled to keep the average value of the input at the bias point of 2.5 volts.
In this case, the effective resistance would be a function of how much bias current you are drawing.
With a capacitively coupled input, you would be drawing no bias current and the input could have a very high effective resistance.
I guess I'll have to make a few more measurements.
@Renate NST I did some experimentation. Theres a definate difference between the .1uF to 50uF, but 50uF to 100uF did not produce much of a difference. I think 100uF is sufficient. What say you?
Here is a video which starts with .1uF, moves to stock galaxy camera, 50uF, and finally 100uF.
These parts were collected from spare circuit boards and low voltage power supplies.
I think it sounds better with the larger caps.
A 10 µF should really be plenty though.
The difference between 0.1 µF and 10 µF is a factor of 100
Going bigger will not make a big difference.
I think that your cell phone must have a pretty high input resistance already.
It didn't sound horrible with the 0.1 µF
USB microphone /will it work with USB input and 3.5 mm output cable?
Hi I am interested in using the blue yeti to screen record on a rootedins 5.This tutorial was on the yeti xlr but the original has a USB output.If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable will it work with screen recording?
1512tootsie said:
If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.
Here's the link
Renate NST said:
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cable :3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable by VIMVIP
The cable has a USB input and a 3.5 mm output
I have a nexus 5 that's rooted.I also have a otg cable that works with a mouse USB flash drive and keyboard.Is there any pro condenser microphone that works well with android?
I looked at that adapter and as far as I can tell from the non-English description it's a purely mechanical adapter for car stereos that use a 4 pole 3.5 mm jack on the front panel as a USB connection.
Is any way to re-route via software the Mic to right pins? SImpler: That the phone "ears" the right output?
Perhaps, I'm blind, but I do not see any schematics on how/where connect the capcitor...
Can I just use a normal 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter ?
Hi Adam, Hi Renate,
you will probably get a better adapter from an TRRS video cable. These have better shielded wires than the headphones ones.
I need imperatively an audio input that has no level compression.
Did you care on that? don't more or less all phone mic circuitry compress the signal anyway?
How is it possible?
Thank you for this! It was just what I was looking for!
I'm posting my experience doing this as it may help others who are also trying to do the same (and not know much about electronics, like me ).
I have an condenser microphone that has a USB plug (for power input) and 3.5mm Tip-Ring-Sleeve (TRS) jack (for signal output) on the end of the cable. When I plug the microphone into the computer to record and power the microphone, (or use a wall socket (via a 5v phone charging adapter) for power) there is noticeable hum in the recording. So I wanted to record and power the mic using my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 android smartphone because 1) powering it by the phone would remove A/C power hum, and 2) the recording process is much easier, as I use the phone to record video too. (Note: you can record by plugging the mic into a laptop running on battery to remove the hum, but using my phone was what I really wanted to record with as it is so much easier)
I opened up an old CD ROM drive and took out the audio headphone socket. I salvaged a few capacitors from an old circuit board lying around, and cut the 3.5mm jack plug off some broken headphones.
I then wired up the circuit as best I could from following 1) this post, 2) the two posts referred to in this post:a) https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612 and b) http://www.doityourselfgadgets.com/2014/09/how-to-connect-external-microphone-to.html
I did some testing on a breadboard (I tried adding a 1000 Ohm resistor, and moved the capacitor around the circuit, I used a 0.1 micro Farad capacitor, then changed to a 50micro Farad capacitor and noticed a benefit to the recording volume.)
What I called "testing" someone with electronics knowledge should read as "rolling dice" ...but this picture shows what I ended up with that worked for me (with the finished item after soldering and applying some heatshrink tubing to cover and insulate the adapter).
Related
I hope this topic is in the right section, it's a little bit hacking, isn't it? (Otherwise feel free to move.)
Before today I experienced a poor FM radio quality with the original Touch Diamond headset, so I couldn't properly use TMC, via HyperGPS.
At my home I had a few spots with TMC reception, but sometimes moving a few inches/centimeter could result in a total loss of the TMC signal.
Driving around with iGo and TMC was even more terrible, on a 50 KM (~31 miles) trip I had 3 succesfull TMC receptions, for a few seconds that is.
With other words, HyperGPS worked perfectly, but my own reception quality was very very poor.
So after some research on the extUSB pinout, I've decided to build my own antenna.
Getting an extUSB connector
I few weeks ago I've bought a few USB to 3.5mm headphone adapters, so I could "waste" 1 if it didn't work out that well.
These connectors are highly useable for this small project.
I managed to open the connector with a screwdrawer, don't force it or the clips will break.
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As you probably can see, there are 3 wires connected in the original connector.
On pin 6 a green wire for the left speaker.
On pin 7 and 8 a yellow/gold-ish wire for the antenna and the ground (?) wire for the left and right speaker
On pin 11 a red wire for the right speaker.
With a soldering iron I was able to heat the wires a little bit, so they came loose.
When you are done, pull of the big flexible plastic part, and save it for later. (Dunno the name of it)
Wire
Now, find some wire. I've read that 1.5 mm thick cable is perfect.
I didn't have 1.5 mm, so I used a 1.0 mm thick cable. And now I'm done, I'm glad I didn't had 1.5 mm as it would be more difficult to attach to the connector.
About the cable length, some say 75 cm is perfect. At this site they say 95 cm is the ideal lenght for a 5/8ths lenght antenna. (Whatever that means tho, I'm not that technical. Something to do with the wavelength.)
My cable is currently 110 cm, and I haven't seen any negative effects yet. Maybe I can have an even better reception with a shorter cable, but at this point I don't see a reason why I should risk my current quality.
Connecting the wire
We need to solder the wire to both pin 7 and 8.
But the pinout image shows only pin 7? Indeed, but with only pin 7 connected the phone doesn't recognize a headset, thus the FM Radio isn't working. (And probably also HyperGPS, didn't test this.)
The headset detection can be skipped via a registery edit, but I think this solution is more solid, since the reg edit has to be done each time you reset your phone, or connect a real headset.
Be sure your wire doesn't hit other pins, in the worst case it could seriously damage your device.
Finishing the connector
To add a little bit more strength to the cable, I've added a little bit glue.
Re-attach the flexible plastic part we kept separate earlier.
Done
When you connect the antenna, the phone will now recognize a headset, so you can listen to the radio without attaching your headphones, and without performing a registry edit to fake the headphones.
But the best of all: I have a much better TMC reception.
I haven't tested it in a real world trip, but so far the reception indoors is perfect, without loosing the TMC signal every second.
Hi there,
I have been thinking about this for some time and hope to get around to it one of these days (latest when GNS is working )
Have you considered hooking it to your car antenna?
Perhaps you can check if signal strength changes with an FM-Tool (PowerRadio, XFMRadio - I think they show).
Only reference I have would be this post by beemer
My final goal would be to have charging+tmc-antenna permanently installed to my passive mount.
Excellent tutorial Nakebod. I agree with Schmeichler. My goal would be to be able to use my car cradle, with charger, aerial AND link to my car stereo. However, I don't know how to get to the AUX input of my car stereo anyway!!
I wish they made cars a little easier to tamper with too....
I gave up on all the TMC traffic stuff as I did get it to work with my headphones, but that had no point to me as I wanted to use my car cradle. I suppose your tutorial Nakebod would equally apply to the car cradle, but I don't really want to tamper with it. Also, because it is charging, perhaps it is already a bit crowded with wires....
I have thought about using my car antenna, but that will be a little bit more difficult.
Probably a good reception, since it's "industrial built", and hopefully the ideal length.
I don't know if you can share the antenna, because I also like to listen to the radio in my car, or I have to use two antenna's.
The pinout reference posted by beemer is the same pinout as I've linked in the startpost, the one I used for this small project.
For power + TMC I have the original HTC audio adapter, so I can use 2.5/3.5mm and extUSB "headphones", and charge it via the 2nd extUSB port.
In theory you can extend this project any way you want, attach a car power connector to it, use your car antenna, maybe if your car stereo supports it, you can even hook the "headset" part to your radio
Today I had my first real world experience with my own antenna, and after switching to a more stable station with TMC, it worked much better then before.
Not a 100% coverage, sometimes it's still searching for a signal.
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
shamus said:
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly my idea. Connection the car charger including antenna cable to radio power and antenna too, only leaving the usb connector for the phone coming out with integrated car-antenna.
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Riel said:
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest not to use the headset as basis a for this - I bought myself some extUSB connectors and started some tests (limited time).
Even a 50cm wire gives you better reception than the headset - and less sensitive to antenna movement also....
Hmm, yes, but i really never use the headphones And I think it is easier to cut 5cm cable off the connector, and solder right onto the existing cables.
Can I connect power to USB car adapter and antenna to car antenna then? (I could then even connect the audio output to car radio!)
soldering to existing cables will for sure be easier than soldering onto an extUSB - that's for sure!
I have also thought about using audio-out but utilizing aux-in for me would mean loosing my CD/MP3 so that's a nogo
I have not tested car antenna yet - but I know that mine is "live" as VW uses the antenna cable to power the amp in the antenna-socket. So you should really make sure no power is able to get to your phone on pin 7.
If I'm lucky I will be able to do some more testing this weekend....
EDIT: ok - did some tests...
Hooking pin7 to car antenna gives you quite some improvement reception-wise!
I tested two channels with PowerRadio - one jumped from 8 to 15 the other from 14 to 20
Something I noticed:
I only connected pin7 without bridging it to pin8 as a detected headset seems to dim speaker-volume a bit. Test this with headset connected for tmc and pull it out while your navi-voice is talking.
Its not much - but I can hear it - maybe its only my device....
BUT: routing FM-Radio to speaker does not seem to be possible at all without hardware thinking a headset is connected.
PowerRadio starts and tunes - but no sound. Setting headset-state to 1 via registry lets you start HTCFMRadio but no sond when changing output to speaker also.
I also soldered on a miniUSB-jack for charging... works like a charm. Although before putting in something permanent i guess I will need to get some different soldering equipment (no fun at all).
I had also thoughts of changing the connector in my car holder to an ext-usb with GND, 5V and antenna cable attached to it. So i've bought 2 usb to 3.5mm headphone adapters from ebay. The only problem was that the pins on the ext usb connectors were not all there.
So I cut and stripped the original headphone ext-usb plug and soldered (yes it was tiny!) wires to the +5v pin, GND pin (and soldered the GND wire to the shield of the connector) and soldered the pin 7 for the antenna.
The cable is working, but I have a major problem: when charging the radio is not recieving a signal. I looks like the phone is switching pin 7 off when charging. The phone I use is a Topaz (Diamond2)
Has anyone the same problem or a solution? and anyone knows a place on ebay who sells the ext-usb connectors? Then I could test it on another connector.
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
@dbox2
try checking if perhaps some of your grounds are bridged internally - as the original headset is not meant for charing I would not be surprised.
And read from here
I connected only 1,5 and 7 - does not make a difference if power is connected or not.
I've indeed used the connector of the headset, but I complete stripped it(including the tiny smd parts on the internal pcb) before soldering the wires to it. Tonight I've checked my ext usb connector with an multimeter. only pins 1, 5 and 7 are used. also the gnd pin 5 is connected to the shield of the plug. There is no bridge. The rest of the pins are not used, so my cable is fine! Also I made a sort of RF-filter, to filter the +5v and the power line going to the connector. It didn't make any difference.
When the telephone is connected to my self-made connector (whithout connected to +5v all is working well! The problem is when I connect the +5v wire and the diamond2 is going to charge the battery, the signal is complete lost. I found out that the charging mode is the problem cause in the WM software of the diamond2 (settings->energy) there is an option you can select that the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when connected to a PC). With that setting enabled the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when I put my self made cable to it (whith the 5v line connected to it). Then all is working well... Very strange... when I deselect that option in the energy settings, the diamond charges the battery and signal is complete lost!
I think that my diamond2 is in the software or hardware
Maybe the diamond2 is different working than the diamond1, or it could be in the rom or radio rom and maybe a setting in the register?
Very, very strange!
I use a Dutch original rom: 1.39.404.1 (47382) NLD and radio rom 4.47.25.01
ok - I have a TD1, have never selected 'do not charge when connected to pc' (this phone needs all the charging it can get )
So the ONLY differences between our two diy-adapters is that I did not hook GND to shielding of extUSB.
So just to be sure about our phones working in a different way - perhaps you could cut this connection and test again.
Adminius said:
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im also intersted to know if its possible to use any of these.
I have number 2 in my car right now..
Also, is it possible to make an antenna with no electronic equipment? I dont have a way to solder the wires and everything...how worse is it to use the regular headphones instead?
Just ordered this
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00271I3UY/ref=ox_ya_oh_product
here is another link
http://cgi.ebay.de/3in1-11-PIN-ExtU...3.l1177&_trkparms=240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
it has a longer cable so already enough antenna, hopefully. Also it has a wired through connector for pwr supply usb. Will test and report.
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
dbox2 said:
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable did u use to supply the 5 Volts ? The old Headphone cable ? Or did u wire some new cables to the supply.
What supply did u use, maybe its producing "noise" on the power line when charging current is drawn.
Did u try a different supply ?
The antenna cable, how is this related to the Power cable ? Is it part of the power cable or an extra cable ?
On a schematic i saw, there was a total seperation of the Pwr and the Audio part.
I just bought some ext-usb connectors from http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9078 I Hope they arrive next week.
I made my own 5v and gnd cable. It runs from the connector to an 12 to 5v power supply (5v, 2A). I've build a sort of RF filter yesterday (with a coil, a few capacitors and Ferrite? coils) so there can be no noise on the 5V and GND line running to the connector. The antenna I made is a sort of extra cable (0.75mm). (and I lead it far away from the power line and supply, only near the connector it's not possible.)
I didn't tried another power supply, It's a good idea to check it. I hope next weekend I have time to try it with another power supply I'll post the results next weekend.
@dbox2:
I was gooing to offer you one or two of the extUSBs I bought from sparkfun
You seem to have more knowledge concerning electronics than I do - could you advise me what to use and how to connect to my car antenna?
I measured the connector from my radio while turning on and the antenna reads 16.something Volts!
THX
Edit: also you might want to try older HyperGPS-versions as people are reporting the same behavior (loosing signal when powering) although older versions worked
My Alfa Romeo integration, here! Hope you like it
http://dev.mittelmedia.it/?p=10
for lazy bottoms, here's the excerpt video:
now I need to connect the wheel buttons (volume/track/hangup controls..) from CAN line to the galaxy tab, somehow. I've seen around the web some some sort of madeinchina sticky buttons, that connects via bluetooth.. but I'd prefer not to rewire the wheel (meaning opening it and re-soldering buttons) with these crappy things.
Any idea?
That is awesome!
nice integration; I see you're using Torque, what OBD bluetooth system are you using? Was about to go for PLX but found some so much cheaper on ebay I can't make up my mind. Don't know if quality really differs.
orenxda said:
nice integration; I see you're using Torque, what OBD bluetooth system are you using? Was about to go for PLX but found some so much cheaper on ebay I can't make up my mind. Don't know if quality really differs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the classic OBDkey from the www.obdkey.com site. I never tried on android so far, it used to work on an old htc winmobile, so it's supposed to work here as well. I lend it to a friend of a friend, so .. as soon as I get it back I will do a full video of what the integration is capable of (gps, phone etc). I should also clean my car a bit first
cool! What live wallpaper is that, and what is the last app?
le3ky said:
cool! What live wallpaper is that, and what is the last app?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the wallpaper is particle storm lite, in the video I fire up:
1)videos (bundled player)
2)Torque (for realtime engine data display) it's the one with gauges etc
3)task manager (bundled)
ruspa said:
My Alfa Romeo integration, here! Hope you like it
http://dev.mittelmedia.it/?p=10
for lazy bottoms, here's the excerpt video:
now I need to connect the wheel buttons (volume/track/hangup controls..) from CAN line to the galaxy tab, somehow. I've seen around the web some some sort of madeinchina sticky buttons, that connects via bluetooth.. but I'd prefer not to rewire the wheel (meaning opening it and re-soldering buttons) with these crappy things.
Any idea?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A few suggestions. Install "no lock" to get rid of the slide to unlock and use launcher pro home replacement. LP gives many more config options so you won't need to go into the app drawer as often.
Sent from my SCH-I800 using XDA App
ruspa said:
I have the classic OBDkey from the www.obdkey.com site. I never tried on android so far, it used to work on an old htc winmobile, so it's supposed to work here as well. I lend it to a friend of a friend, so .. as soon as I get it back I will do a full video of what the integration is capable of (gps, phone etc). I should also clean my car a bit first
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK thanks, I've seen this one, but it's more expensive than PLX, and it seemed that there is no on/off switch on it, feature that PLX one have. Have fun!
You're right, no power switch so it will drain your battery out if you don't hack it a little bit, for instance removing the +12v pin and wiring that guy to the car's key-switcher +12v cable. Most newer car, like my Mito, has the [switcher] iso cable not connected, same thing for reverse gear indicator, open doors.. all of these things are now travelling on the CAN bus, so there are some interfaces available (not that expensive 10~20 euro) to extract those key-switched +12v, and all the other stuff.
@ruspa the man in the video can control de audio with the SWI
It's a brilliant IDEA, I would love to do the same on my car, maybe when I earn enough funds. In my car I would need the home dock from samsung.
Does you have any idea about the possibilities of the 30 pin connector, to pull out audio, an usb plug, and how to put rear cam video? I know that's not pdmi standard connector.
Do you know(or anyone else) where can I find the 30 pin connector schematics?
just another implementation I found on youtube, he has steering wheel control, didn't answer to my question on youtube, how he did it.
It's PDMI cant post URLS so look it up on wikipedia.. - pinouts below and on the URL link
Pin No. Pin Name Interface Grouping Pin Description
1 USB 5V USB 2.0 Interface USB Power (VBUS)
2 USB DGND USB Ground
3 USB D+ Data +
4 USB OTG On‐The‐Go (allows device‐to‐device data transfer)
5 USB D‐ Data ‐
6 HC 5V High Current Power (Output on Host) High current 5V supply (1.8A, or 3.6A if combined with pin 15)
7 DGND / HC GND High current Ground
8 AUDIO RIGHT OUT Analog Audio (Input on Host) Right analog audio output (line level)
9 AUDIO LEFT OUT Left analog audio output (line level)
10 AUDIO OUT GND Audio output ground
11 CEC CEC Consumer Electronic Control, for HDMI remote control
12 SSR‐ USB 3.0 Data Device Receive USB 3.0 SSRX‐ signal
13 GND Signal Ground
14 SSR+ USB 3.0 SSRX+ signal
15 HC 5V High Current Power ( Output from Host) High current 5V supply (1.8A, or 3.6A if combined with pin 6)
16 HC GND High current Ground
17 SST‐ USB 3.0 Data Device Transmit USB 3.0 SSTX‐ signal
18 GND Signal Ground
19 SST+ USB 3.0 SSTX+ signal
20 HPD DisplayPort v1.1a Interface, 2 Lane (Host is Sink, Device is Source) Hot Plug Detect (includes interrupt function from host)
21 DAUX+ AUX Channel +
22 DAUX‐ AUX Channel -
23 AP 3.3V DisplayPort Power (Power from portable device)
24 D1‐ Main Link Lane 1 (‐)
25 GND Signal Ground
26 D1+ Main Link Lane 1 (+)
27 GND Signal Ground
28 D0‐ Main Link Lane 0 (‐)
29 GND Signal Ground
30 D0+ Main Link Lane 0 (+)
sporty2k said:
It's PDMI cant post URLS so look it up on wikipedia.. - pinouts below and on the URL link
...
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dell streak pinout list:
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I read that it isn't exactly pdmi connector(have the same physical size but electronic part differs) I need to know the pins electronic correlation, wikipedia says it, I wonder even if the pins order are the same, I read it here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PDMI
Devices that use PDMI
Device Name Release Date Notes
Dell Streak[7] 4th June 2010
Slacker G2
Samsung Galaxy Tab Non-standard connector
PDMI vs galaxy 30 pin connector:
I think we need to wait until the release of the official samsung docking station, which it's gonna have hdmi output (digital audio out?). But I've seen only pictures of that docking station on the web, never seen a real, buyable item at mediaworld
ruspa said:
I think we need to wait until the release of the official samsung docking station, which it's gonna have hdmi output (digital audio out?). But I've seen only pictures of that docking station on the web, never seen a real, buyable item at mediaworld
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean this one?
http://www.mobilefun.co.uk/samsung-galaxy-tab-multimedia-desk-dock-p25797.htm
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-Galaxy-Multimedia-outputs-speakers/dp/B0044ECMR2
http://www.totaldiscountstores.co.u...ts-for-speakers-3-5mm-and-hdmi-for-hd-tv.html
And the cheapest: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0044ECMR2?ie=UTF8&seller=ALCD7IJ1MGT6F&sn=TotallyMobile
This web has stock, some others may have too.
But my idea was to pull audio from the 30 pin connector to the amp, and too the steering wheel controls and charge.
Seems somebody had found some nice findings about the pinout here in xda:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=9985704#post9985704
30 Ground (in HDMI and CAR too)
29
28 Audio R (in HDMI, CAR and maybe Video cable)
27 Audio L (in HDMI, CAR and maybe Video cable)
26
25
24
23 VIDEO Composite
22
21
20
19 (MHL out in HDMI dock )
18 (MHL out in HDMI dock )
17 (MHL out in HDMI dock )
16 Ground
15 Ground
14
13 VIDEO measures 12K to ground (4,3K to ground in HDMI dock only if plug audio out cable, 7,25K to ground if connect CAR dock)
12
11
10 ? ( about 4V maybe for supply external components )
9 (connected to 10 in CAR dock)
8 (connect with 7 and +5V power from USB power supply 2A HDMI and CAR)
7 (connect to 8 and connect to 7&8 in next connector in back HDMI dock)
6 (to next connector in back HDMI dock)
5
4 USB DATA- (Pass through to next connector in back HDMI dock) (in CAR connect with 3 and connect via resistor 40k and 10k to ground to external +5V - recognize power supply ?)
3 USB DATA+ (Pass through to next connector in HDMI dock)
2 (Grounded in HDMI dock)
1 (Grounded in HDMI dock)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here some huge photos off the tab dismantled from ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-Teardown/4103/1
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/h5GYlFtNW5BMQhHo.huge
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/a21sLFOa4ZGm1jvE.huge
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=489028&d=1294967439
awesone stuff!
We are doing a new "dashboard" for using the Tab in the car.
Will hopefully get some screenshots but at the moment we are doing the companion hardware to it.
The hardware has a couple of modules and is ment to be for several different applications.
Bluetooth communication to the tab
Trying to get BT audio as well but not prioritized atm.
An AVR micro to control it all
It has 8 analog inputs that can be set up for 12V or 5V input
8 output (switches gnd)
1 IR in (on 3,5mm jack)
1 IR out (on 3,5mm jack)
module 1:
Car interface
has ELM327 onboard which gives acces to K-lines and CAN bus
(we are using a pre made commercial board for this)
module 2:
Mostly for Range rovers...
dual audio stereo input
digital volume control for both inputs
op amps and balanced line drivers to be able to use incar audio system
they all have separate digital volumes
sub output with digital controlled filter and volume
The protocol and app will be open sourced when we get the basic bits running.
The hardware will be sold as kits or preassembled units in boxes in RangeRover version and basic version.
And btw this is the schematics for the connector on the tab:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=10584557&postcount=34
about ODB or PLX
Hi nice installation. Can you give name of differents software / dongle for connect to CAN bus for SGT ? I'm looking for dongle and software for reset car warning message.
Well now I own a galaxy tab(found it cheap and new) and lacks FM radio but think its hardware capable, so is software fault.
I found some interesting manuals in samfirmware SVC, with lots of schematics maybe had been post before but I didnt saw them.
http://www.multiupload.com/43JRHXF6IU
pass: samfirmware.com
vinclar said:
Well now I own a galaxy tab(found it cheap and new) and lacks FM radio
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry a bit off topic here...but there is an app for that Check out Nobex Radio Companion. You need to use Euro ROM so you could see it under Samsung Apps. Dunno if you could go to samsungapps.com and download separately tho.
quattr0 said:
Sorry a bit off topic here...but there is an app for that Check out Nobex Radio Companion. You need to use Euro ROM so you could see it under Samsung Apps. Dunno if you could go to samsungapps.com and download separately tho.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But Im talking about FM radio, not internet radio. I read that its possible but its not done yet, the hardware is there.
I've spent some time searching looking for something on the subject, but haven't found anything that seems to cover it (does that make me special (I did laugh at the video), but enough off topic).
so I specifically have the Samsung Galaxy Note. though I realise in a lot of ways its really just a big S2 in most regards. and I suspect several other devises that would be comparible.
I'm currentlty using a dual charging dock station which I bought cheaply of amazon, and that gives me sync and power. having looked inside the case there loads of spare room in there. and so I'm wondering about playing around with the MHL adapter and ideally something like the audio out with the official samsung dock.
from what research I've done the note senses what type of dock its in by the resistance on pins 4 and 5. now even with my basic electrical skills it seems rather easy to put in a 3 way switch to select between these
obviously the guts for the HDMI out would be from a MHL adapter, and that should be possible to power through the standard connectors on the current dock. but what I cant seem to find would be the associated parts for the audio (dont want to buy the official samsung dock just to rip it apart) (one thread on here about stripping the cable back to power and then the 3 inner wires were left, right and ground, but didn't see any evidence of that method working)
the audio aspect has another relevence for me, as I'm also wondering about a note dock/speaker set up (cheap 2.1 speakers, rehouse the sub to a case that incorperates the mUSB connector, audio components, and power, so that other than speaker cables and one power cable that'd be it (currently use a Sony NWA-3000 plugged into old pc speakers for such night time listening)
so thoughts and advise (specifically on the audio aspect)
Thatz pretty impressive. I too have that sony dock. I think about modification of it so that i can plug in my hd2 in it. Ie just to put an micro usb plug out from it, so that i can charge my phone while i plug in 3.5mm jack from the sony dock.
Thatz all about mine.. now letz look into ur case.
Cant u try out 3.5 mm jack for audio o/p?
Or else u can check out pinouts.ru for pin config of hdmi, coz, u r going to take out hdmi from sg note any way. So u can rip the cable apart and take out audio and video wires, connect the video cables to tv and audio to dock/ amp.
But i suggest that 3.5 jack will be the easier way.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App
So I don't know about it, I would say that it really isn't that feasible. Besides putting a different resistance you would also need to route the data lines to a different location to the MHL to HMDI converter.
If you were to do the video or USB you couldn't do audio. From what I understand there is a IC that looks at the resistance on the ID pin and puts the audio signals on the data lines. Once again you run into the same problem that you have with the video adapter, routing the data lines.
got a brief schematic for layout. I'm buying some cheap bits now (MHL adapter, USB soundcard, USB OTG cable)
first a few explanations on the schematic, software I used didn't have many switches on it, so plan to use a 4 pole double throw like this rather than the 2 sets of 2p2t shown in the diagram
secondly, not sure if I need to short pins 4&5 for OTG, still reading stuff
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Yap, u got it.. but also provide external power supply of exactly 5v in usb host mode, so as to power slave devices.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?
The MHL lives in the phones hardware is the simplest. If you find the Galaxy S2 hack pack it will show you a block diagram of how the MHL exists there.
syin16 said:
guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as giritrobbins said it is hardware based.
it shares the microUSB connector, but uses an entirely different signalling. hence why it has to be separated out. otherwise a hub would do every thing I'm trying to do here
Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.
Pin 5 (ground) can be carried through to everything.
OTG requires ID (pin4) to be connected to Gnd (pin 5).
In the diagram above S2 is not really needed.
If you want to switch electronically, there are lots of ICs for doing that.
Here is one picked entirely at random: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS/FSA3000.pdf
MHL will be the trouble spot, USB is much more forgiving.
I've seen docks like the one you're tying to build on eBay with built in MHL; is that what you're after?
Well, if you look at the service manuals, they have lots of details about where stuff is coming from.
The MHL is all digital coming from the HDMI chip. There is however audio, which you'd need to enable in the snd driver as
a RX enabled, and also it looks like the I2S would have to set up the microUSB chip to export the analog
audio through the USB port.
At least in the case of the 8960 systems (Galaxy S3, OneX?) this is the USB driver setup.
The audio is coming directly from the qualcomm codec chip and you'd have to enable it with
the tabla stuff, then the USB, but it might be programmed to sense USB headset.
---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------
Basically, if you want analog output only, you need to use the MUS_I2C to tell the Fairchild USB analog mux to enable the
audio lines. Then you would need an audio amp because the codec output can only make it to the analog mux
and I'm not sure what kind of buffering is on the uUSB chip. But if you are going this route, you might as well use
the headphone jack. It's not digital unless you use the MHL.
Two things to bear in mind when demultiplexing the USB connector:
The analog audio out ("CarKit") has a signal that goes below ground.
Some electronic demultiplexors might not handle that.
The MHL signal goes into the Gigahertz.
Don't try switching that with a Radio Shack relay or connecting using loose wires.
MHL uses the two data lines for TMDS data and the ID pin for CBUS.
Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.
Hi All,
I've been considering doing an Android head unit for a long time. There's only two things that have stopped me. The first is audio quality, which I have gotten over since I have a great sound system and the amps should sort quality out. The other is storage. My 64 gb ipod is completely full and I actually enjoy all of it, plus a large variety.
Essentially, is there a way of getting 64gb of external storage on my 16gb Nexus 7, while it is still being charged by my car?
And for anyone who has tried it, will I notice a big sound decay going from iPod - Alpine head unit down to a 3.5mm - RCA connector?
Thanks!
See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.
MetalMan2 said:
See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was exactly what I needed to hear, thanks! This is the first I've heard of using a DAC though. Could you link me to the one you use? From what I gather, this takes the usb audio and converts it to an analogue signal, yes? Meaning I can connect RCA directly into it?
edit: and how do you tell the tablet to push audio out through the usb cable instead of the headphone jack?
MetalMan2 said:
See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you see any issues here? My blueprints aren't of the highest quality
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DallasJones said:
That was exactly what I needed to hear, thanks! This is the first I've heard of using a DAC though. Could you link me to the one you use? From what I gather, this takes the usb audio and converts it to an analogue signal, yes? Meaning I can connect RCA directly into it?
edit: and how do you tell the tablet to push audio out through the usb cable instead of the headphone jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The DAC I use is a Behringer UCA222 but it seems many DACs will work. I picked this one because of price point and good reviews (and it works great for me).
And yes, a USB DAC takes in a digital signal through USB and converts to analog output, (depending on the unit it may be RCA and/or 3.5mm stereo jack).
For USB DAC to work you first need a kernel which supports OTG and USB audio. If you also want to charge at the same time, you need a kernel which supports OTG + charging + USB audio. I only know of one which effectively does this. Here is the latest version of it:
http://rootzwiki.com/topic/30615-ca...mode-simultaneously/page__st__90#entry1024445
NOTE: Android will auto-switch to USB audio after a reboot. If you unplug USB from the Nexus 7 with the DAC connected you might not be able to get any audio (USB or 3.5mm stereo) until after a reboot.
There is also the faux123 kernel which supports USB audio and OTG + charging with a toggle (run through a script). However, this toggle reverts back to regular OTG (no charging) after a reboot. So that means that you cannot [currently] use this kernel for USB OTG + charging + USB audio... see my post on that thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=33940904#post33940904
---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 AM ----------
DallasJones said:
Can you see any issues here? My blueprints aren't of the highest quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is almost right. Two things: 1) You'll need a 2amp charger. 2) The USB DAC only uses one connection to the USB hub (single USB-A plug). Check this out for a more appropriate USB cable solution:
http://www.ida-and-pingala.com/imag...-inch/DIY-OTG-Adapter-&-DIY-OTG-Y-Adapter.gif
There is a cable sold on eBay which does this properly:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121008911563
For my car installation I couldn't fit a cable like that, as I needed one with a right-angle micro USB plug where it attaches to the Nexus 7. So I bought a regular OTG cable with right-angle micro USB plug, and spliced in my own USB plug for charging similar to the image I posted above.
This is excellent, thank you. And I understand that it's probably impossible, but my head unit currently has 6 outputs. 4 for speakers, and 2 for my sub/mono amp. Is there a way to do all of this properly with an Android setup?
DallasJones said:
This is excellent, thank you. And I understand that it's probably impossible, but my head unit currently has 6 outputs. 4 for speakers, and 2 for my sub/mono amp. Is there a way to do all of this properly with an Android setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have speaker wire coming straight out of your head unit, it sounds like you'll probably need to invest in some more equipment. I currently have 2 amps, 1 driving my speakers + tweets and 1 driving the sub.
I plan to go from the DAC to a 2 way preamp that will feed both my amps.
I'm still entertaining an idea that avoids the USB DAC and tries to HDMI -> SPDIF -> DAC.
brutog said:
If you have speaker wire coming straight out of your head unit, it sounds like you'll probably need to invest in some more equipment. I currently have 2 amps, 1 driving my speakers + tweets and 1 driving the sub.
I plan to go from the DAC to a 2 way preamp that will feed both my amps.
I'm still entertaining an idea that avoids the USB DAC and tries to HDMI -> SPDIF -> DAC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm thinking this is all beyond me and I should just be happy with what I have... Thanks guys.
Hi,
I'm making this thread because i have seen alot of bricks for this phone including my own. What seems to be most annoying is, my phone boots, shows LG Logo splash and after that completely black screen whereas flashing the Mako (Nexus4) Rom via LGNPST works, it boots without any issues. So the idea is to see the startup log and identify whats been causing the problem in actual.
The UART pads on this phone are completely not made to be accessible by normal means and below is an attached pic of the same
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As you can see, the molex is just barely a cm long and contains 15pads on each side. The problem is however, m not very much familiar with UART/Serial stuff. I have hooked up a serial connection with the pogoplug sometimes back and all m aware of is basic programs used and Profilic USB-Serial converter (Nokia CA-42 Data cable in mycase). Right now i'm having a USB-RSR232(Com Port) converter at my place and i'm unable to get any outputs to putty/terminal. Any info regarding this will be hugely appreciated.
I know nothing about the specifics of this phone,
but be aware that many UART interfaces are not at 5V levels but at 3.3V, 2V or lower.
What does a voltmeter say on the TXD pin?
I got my Nook's kernel console UART working using a home-brew/cheesy RS-232 converter.
I don't even remember what the levels are, but it works fine.
Thanks for the reply, i will to gather the readings later today. One more question, the current Signal converter m having right now i.e, USB-RS232 will work or do i need to get anything else?
If I read that correctly, you only have a USB to RS-232 converter?
Regular RS-232 swings at least + and - 5V and will blow things out.
A "data cable" usually uses "TTL level" which swings between ground and some fraction of +5V, maybe 3.5V, 2.8 being the nominal threshold.
I've got one for a GPS puck that uses a Prolific chip.
I've used that as a debugger hookup for an ATMega32u4 which runs on 5V.
Nowadays I have a couple of transistors on a board for going from my Nook to a regular PC RS-232 input.
Below readings were taken with battery and USB cable connected.
TX- 0.03v ~ 1.65v
RX- 0.03v ~1.65v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm having a Profilic USB-Serial converter which is having a USB type B connector and a com port connector on each sides. I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.
If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?
funkym0nk3y said:
I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should connect ground of the phone with ground of your serial-converter/PC.
Ground is connected from the PC, i have tried with connecting ground from riff box, no help.
Renate NST said:
If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RXD and TXD readings were taken with both USB cable from PC and battery connected.
btw how did you find/identify the UART-pins and why are sure that you have the correct pins?
I'm very interested in this process because I have an Xiaomi MI2 with nearly the same hardware.
i located them using the service manual so m indeed sure they are correct.
M having this converter
and i guess that is perfect for serial output, but the thing is m still unable to get any outputs from the phone, i'm attaching the svc manual for the same incase some1 is willing to help out.
http://d-h.st/agQ
The UART is accessible via 3.5mm earphone jack in Nexus 4 and not in any of the og variants.
Well, your adapter is fine and dandy, but I don't see any photos of a level shifter.
If you connect some of the DB9 pins on that adapter to something inside your cell phone you are going to blow something up.
See this post for a photo of my setup: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=35328483&postcount=11
Hey, thanks for the reply, m not connecting the pin9. M just connecting the pin2 and pin3 on rx and tx pads of my phone,below is a pic of my current setup.
That last photo does not look like the first photo.
I'm not talking about pin #9, I am talking about the 9-pin connector.
Yes, you should be using pins #2, #3 & #5 but don't connect them directly to your phone!
What comes out of the 9-pin connector is higher voltage that will blow out the circuits on your phone.
You measured it yourself, the phone works on levels less than 2 volts.
Now measure what is coming out of the 9 pin connector.
Scary, eh?
You need a level shifter.
Besides the voltages being different, the polarity is different.
I guess this should be fine ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JY-MCU-...157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aebfc73f5
funkym0nk3y said:
I guess this should be fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is a [5V logic level] <=> [3.3V logic level] converter.
What's coming out of the 9-pin connector is [RS-232 level].
What your phone wants apparently is [2.5V logic level]
So what you need is a [2.5V logic level] <=> [RS-232 level] converter that inverts.
Here, in summary are the logic standards:
Code:
Standard Zero One
---------- ---- -----
RS-232 5.0V -5.0V (notice that this signal goes [b]minus[/b])
Cheesy 5.0V 0.0V (we're cheesy and don't have a minus supply)
5V logic 0.0V 5.0V
3.3V logic 0.0V 3.3V
2.5V logic 0.0V 2.5V
If you have a "USB data cable" that uses "TTL levels" [5V logic level]
then all you would need would be a [5V logic level] <=> [2.5V logic level] converter.
If you want to stick with your 9-pin adapter you will have to have something that converts from/to [RS-232 level].
If you were building this thing seriously, you would use a MAX232 chip or something that would convert from/to [5V level].
If you were going to be cheesy, you can drive your 9-pin connector with [Cheesy level].
This is logic which does not meet the spec for [RS-232] level but is "good enough" to work.
I mean, what is it that you want out of this? 90% is to get a log out while booting.
Then you only have to do one side of the deal, a [2.5V level] => [Cheesy level] that inverts.
Enough for now...
Reading this thread, I'd be surprised if you have not already blown-up something in your phone. Randomly connecting HW to the inside of your phone without knowing the difference of +/- 15V RS-232 levels and 1.8V CMOS logic is a sure killer!
But if its still working...here are a few comments:
1. We'd need to see the entire PCB, to help you identify the proper UART ports.
2. If it's based on Qualcomm, and anything similar to their reference design, you probably don't even need to go inside to get debug output. You might be able to get it via a modified micro-USB jig...
3. You say you have schematics, why don't you post that instead?
4. Get yourself a proper serial cable, ASAP. (You will for sure find other occasions where it is useful.) I always preach for the FTDI products...
5. The port you show, look like a JTAG port...or is it a strip-connector?
6. Never, ever, solder directly to your PCB, use connectors!
Nothing is damaged, i already measured the voltage coming out from rx and tx of the converter which i connected with the phone, however i was not aware that i might need to use a level shifter and m sure that might be the deal breaker. Anyway, i got my phone running after 3weeks and would like to use it normally for sometime now, i will be doing the this again once i get the proper setup at my place. Also the UART ports are correct as they are obtained by the service manual.
I have posted the service manual in the thread to avoid all the confusions already. Finding the receptacles is not easy for me as i'm unable to find them locally or online, samsung receptacles are easily available here in my country but they aren't seems suitable for this molex thats the only reason i did soldering on the molex legs itself.. Yes you are correct, the port which is posted is a jtag port and the wires connected are coming from my jtagbox.