Database Users

TV-OUT

Hi all,
I was using 3.5mm cable for tv out on my i9000, but i see that doesnt work for i9100...
Will anyone do a hack or something like this for it?
I know there is cable from samsung to hdmi but i am asking it for tvs or auto radios without hdmi...
Is it possible to make a hack or mod for using 3.5mm tvout cables?
I have this cable:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/3-5mm-male-to-3-rca-male-av-adapter-cable-70cm-length-42206
It was working on my sgs i9000...
Thanks and sorry for my english...

Are you just looking to output sound from the 3.5mm jack, or video as well?
If both, I think you may be out of luck, as as far as I know the 3.5mm jack in this case is a standard mic + stereo sound (+antenna) thing.

nvm/....,.,,.

Jinoxide said:
Are you just looking to output sound from the 3.5mm jack, or video as well?
If both, I think you may be out of luck, as as far as I know the 3.5mm jack in this case is a standard mic + stereo sound (+antenna) thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was using from this cable with my Galaxy S i9000, but the cable doesnt work anymore with SGS 2 i9100... I think samsung disabled it.
And my neighbour had iphone, he was using a auto radio, he was watching videos and listening music with it, i told him buy a samsung galaxy s2, it will work with 3.5mm cable, after he bought sgs2 we were shocked, cable didnt work with sgs2... he doesnt has hdmi in auto radio, he just bought it because of works with his auto radio...
We dont know what to do... Thats why i asked for a hack or something like that...
Is it possible to let it work on sgs2? i mean my cable as on video...

Why not use an adapter to change the HDMI output to what you need? I figure they're out there...

NZtechfreak said:
Why not use an adapter to change the HDMI output to what you need? I figure they're out there...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if someone knows which cables do i have to find than please let me know...
but i think someone can do some works for it, almost same plug in on my sgs and sgs2...

erhangulsum said:
if someone knows which cables do i have to find than please let me know...
but i think someone can do some works for it, almost same plug in on my sgs and sgs2...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need a MHL adapter.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile_High-definition_Link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbSFqqv5FeE
Etc... google for it. Some shops in the UK have it but it's pretty much out of stock everywhere.

Would also like to know this. What cable do i need to plug into the hdmi on tv?
Sent from my SGS2 via XDA App

[email protected] said:
Would also like to know this. What cable do i need to plug into the hdmi on tv?
Sent from my SGS2 via XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to buy a MHL adapter that comes with it's own power supply and then connect it to the micro USB port on the phone from then on it's HDMI > HDMI.

i am sure that i need some cable like this one:
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http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=45238
But i am not sure if it works with Samsung Galaxy S2...
Or maybe this can also but i dont think so
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vivitar-Camera-...s_Adapters&hash=item2eb58bc4a8#ht_1242wt_1132

erhangulsum said:
i am sure that i need some cable like this one:
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=45238
But i am not sure if it works with Samsung Galaxy S2...
Or maybe this can also but i dont think so
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vivitar-Camera-...s_Adapters&hash=item2eb58bc4a8#ht_1242wt_1132
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need this one...http://www.clove.co.uk/samsung-galaxy-s-ii-i9100-mhl-adaptor and then a regular hdmi cable to plug that into your tv

ogdobber said:
you need this one...http://www.clove.co.uk/samsung-galaxy-s-ii-i9100-mhl-adaptor and then a regular hdmi cable to plug that into your tv
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, for using on tv...
I was using exactly this cable with my Samsung galaxy s:
When i was using this one, there was a tv-out section in settings...
My neighbour bought sgs2 because of this cable works with his kenwood auto radio... He has only rca input for video so he cant use hdmi.
He has something like this but inc. no bluetooth or hdmi input, only rca input for video:
http://www.kenwood.nl/products/car/multimedia/receivers/DDX4028BT/
Samsung disabled rca cable on sgs2 so we are trying to find a solution...
I hope that i explained well...

erhangulsum said:
Yes, for using on tv...
I was using exactly this cable with my Samsung galaxy s:
When i was using this one, there was a tv-out section in settings...
My neighbour bought sgs2 because of this cable works with his kenwood auto radio... He has only rca input for video so he cant use hdmi.
He has something like this but inc. no bluetooth or hdmi input, only rca input for video:
http://www.kenwood.nl/products/car/multimedia/receivers/DDX4028BT/
Samsung disabled rca cable on sgs2 so we are trying to find a solution...
I hope that i explained well...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
video will never work from the 3.5 on the sgs2, the hardware isn't there.
you will need the mhl cable and an hdmi to rca for the "car video" solution
like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/3FT-HDTV-HDMI-3-RCA-RGB-Adapter-Cable-PS3-276-/280653543268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4158413764#ht_2569wt_906

[Q] hacking docks to provide audio, hdmi or sync (MHL and stuff)

I've spent some time searching looking for something on the subject, but haven't found anything that seems to cover it (does that make me special (I did laugh at the video), but enough off topic).
so I specifically have the Samsung Galaxy Note. though I realise in a lot of ways its really just a big S2 in most regards. and I suspect several other devises that would be comparible.
I'm currentlty using a dual charging dock station which I bought cheaply of amazon, and that gives me sync and power. having looked inside the case there loads of spare room in there. and so I'm wondering about playing around with the MHL adapter and ideally something like the audio out with the official samsung dock.
from what research I've done the note senses what type of dock its in by the resistance on pins 4 and 5. now even with my basic electrical skills it seems rather easy to put in a 3 way switch to select between these
obviously the guts for the HDMI out would be from a MHL adapter, and that should be possible to power through the standard connectors on the current dock. but what I cant seem to find would be the associated parts for the audio (dont want to buy the official samsung dock just to rip it apart) (one thread on here about stripping the cable back to power and then the 3 inner wires were left, right and ground, but didn't see any evidence of that method working)
the audio aspect has another relevence for me, as I'm also wondering about a note dock/speaker set up (cheap 2.1 speakers, rehouse the sub to a case that incorperates the mUSB connector, audio components, and power, so that other than speaker cables and one power cable that'd be it (currently use a Sony NWA-3000 plugged into old pc speakers for such night time listening)
so thoughts and advise (specifically on the audio aspect)

Thatz pretty impressive. I too have that sony dock. I think about modification of it so that i can plug in my hd2 in it. Ie just to put an micro usb plug out from it, so that i can charge my phone while i plug in 3.5mm jack from the sony dock.
Thatz all about mine.. now letz look into ur case.
Cant u try out 3.5 mm jack for audio o/p?
Or else u can check out pinouts.ru for pin config of hdmi, coz, u r going to take out hdmi from sg note any way. So u can rip the cable apart and take out audio and video wires, connect the video cables to tv and audio to dock/ amp.
But i suggest that 3.5 jack will be the easier way.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App

So I don't know about it, I would say that it really isn't that feasible. Besides putting a different resistance you would also need to route the data lines to a different location to the MHL to HMDI converter.
If you were to do the video or USB you couldn't do audio. From what I understand there is a IC that looks at the resistance on the ID pin and puts the audio signals on the data lines. Once again you run into the same problem that you have with the video adapter, routing the data lines.

got a brief schematic for layout. I'm buying some cheap bits now (MHL adapter, USB soundcard, USB OTG cable)
first a few explanations on the schematic, software I used didn't have many switches on it, so plan to use a 4 pole double throw like this rather than the 2 sets of 2p2t shown in the diagram
secondly, not sure if I need to short pins 4&5 for OTG, still reading stuff
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Yap, u got it.. but also provide external power supply of exactly 5v in usb host mode, so as to power slave devices.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?

The MHL lives in the phones hardware is the simplest. If you find the Galaxy S2 hack pack it will show you a block diagram of how the MHL exists there.

syin16 said:
guyz, i wanna ask something, in order to use MHL adapter, does the phone need to support MHL protocol? and the protocol resides in the hardware part or software part of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as giritrobbins said it is hardware based.
it shares the microUSB connector, but uses an entirely different signalling. hence why it has to be separated out. otherwise a hub would do every thing I'm trying to do here

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

Pin 5 (ground) can be carried through to everything.
OTG requires ID (pin4) to be connected to Gnd (pin 5).
In the diagram above S2 is not really needed.
If you want to switch electronically, there are lots of ICs for doing that.
Here is one picked entirely at random: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS/FSA3000.pdf
MHL will be the trouble spot, USB is much more forgiving.

I've seen docks like the one you're tying to build on eBay with built in MHL; is that what you're after?

Well, if you look at the service manuals, they have lots of details about where stuff is coming from.
The MHL is all digital coming from the HDMI chip. There is however audio, which you'd need to enable in the snd driver as
a RX enabled, and also it looks like the I2S would have to set up the microUSB chip to export the analog
audio through the USB port.
At least in the case of the 8960 systems (Galaxy S3, OneX?) this is the USB driver setup.
The audio is coming directly from the qualcomm codec chip and you'd have to enable it with
the tabla stuff, then the USB, but it might be programmed to sense USB headset.
---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------
Basically, if you want analog output only, you need to use the MUS_I2C to tell the Fairchild USB analog mux to enable the
audio lines. Then you would need an audio amp because the codec output can only make it to the analog mux
and I'm not sure what kind of buffering is on the uUSB chip. But if you are going this route, you might as well use
the headphone jack. It's not digital unless you use the MHL.

Two things to bear in mind when demultiplexing the USB connector:
The analog audio out ("CarKit") has a signal that goes below ground.
Some electronic demultiplexors might not handle that.
The MHL signal goes into the Gigahertz.
Don't try switching that with a Radio Shack relay or connecting using loose wires.
MHL uses the two data lines for TMDS data and the ID pin for CBUS.

Hi, folks just thought I would ask how this project is going ? It's really quite fascinating.

KF OTG Discussion

So I have been playing around with various USB game controllers as well as various storage devices and everything has worked so far (except BT, its detected but thats it). Hashcode has put a low priority on OTG in the kernal dev queue so I would like to get a discussion going about possible hardware solutions to over come the current 3.3v limitation of the USB port when running as a host (which is why devices dont work directly, only through a hub). Someone already suggested a current pump DC-DC in the kernal thread so my current focus something like this: http://www.circuitsathome.com/dc-dc/33v-to-5v-dc-dc-converter
for some motivation to this end, here is my USB NES controller hooked via OTG:

Controller use brought to you by HaiKaiDo Inc. lol

usb otg will work nice if we can up the voltage
usb otg will work nice if we can up the voltage from 3.7 to 5 volt

southbird already did a proof of concept with a voltage regulator from pololu
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25943787#post25943787

barrmulio said:
southbird already did a proof of concept with a voltage regulator from pololu
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25943787#post25943787
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep saw that. My aim here is to go beyond that and come up with a real design
Sent from my Xperia X10 using xda premium

Can the voltage regulator be wired into the OTG cable? If so I am willing to try this but I need help with the wiring. I am searching now for some type of soapbox enclosure to house the voltage regulator. Any suggestions?

It would serve as the otg cable. The vreg will sit on the power rail between the kf and the normal usb connector. Ultimately, i want to lay out a smd board with the micro usb and regulator that goes in some little enclosure.

Basically what I am thinking of doing is putting the regulator inbetween the micro usb and female usb. It will look like other otg cables but the enclosure with the female usb will be larger.
I am assuming that the red(power) from micro usb is connected to the vout and the red(power) from female usb is connected to vin on the regulator. Do both sides of the ground need to be connected to the regulator or just to each other?

Can this work with GPS receiver?
sent from the greezals fire.

meturne2 said:
Basically what I am thinking of doing is putting the regulator inbetween the micro usb and female usb. It will look like other otg cables but the enclosure with the female usb will be larger.
I am assuming that the red(power) from micro usb is connected to the vout and the red(power) from female usb is connected to vin on the regulator. Do both sides of the ground need to be connected to the regulator or just to each other?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could but IMHO, it would be simpler and cheaper to integrate everything as one device. The OTG cable is nothing special, just a micro USB B to regular USB A. The power needs to run from the micro in the KF to the vReg Vin, vReg Vout to the USB A connector, the ground is connected to all three.
greezal said:
Can this work with GPS receiver?
sent from the greezals fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No clue. I'm sure a google search would yield some answers

OK I'll look it up now and see if I can get the answer.
sent from the greezals fire.

greezal said:
OK I'll look it up now and see if I can get the answer.
sent from the greezals fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just looked it up and not much on the subject have not got a straight answer. Would be great though.
sent from the greezals fire.

Ok, the ones I ordered are in. Size is NICE, it should be really easy to integrate this into existing USB connector enclosures. This is the 120 mA version, the 600 mA version is about twice the size
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altitude909 said:
Ok, the ones I ordered are in. Size is NICE, it should be really easy to integrate this into existing USB connector enclosures. This is the 120 mA version, the 600 mA version is about twice the size
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very nice - i ordered the pololu one and still waiting for it to arrive
my thoughts were similar; integrate the regulator into the usb female header area of the otg, or somewhere mid-cable...but I'm having a hard time finding an elegant solution to either re-enclosing the plastic end of the female header or enclosing it mid cable
i just back another otg cable today, i'll be cutting it apart to see if there's enough space by the usb a

success! kinda.. For super low current devices (i.e. NES game controller) it is working fine, anything larger (flash memory) its drawing too much current causing the voltage to sag below 2.5V which is not enough to power the regulator. Will try the LTC3426 one tomorrow since that should be able to operate at a lower input voltage

altitude909 said:
success! kinda.. For super low current devices (i.e. NES game controller) it is working fine, anything larger (flash memory) its drawing too much current causing the voltage to sag below 2.5V which is not enough to power the regulator. Will try the LTC3426 one tomorrow since that should be able to operate at a lower input voltage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just to make sure I got your wiring right
from micro usb b
- red to vReg Vin
- pin 4 to ground
- pin 5 to ground
from usb a
- red to vReg Vout
- black/pin 4 to ground
?
my stupid otg cable doesn't have standard colors (it's green, blue, yellow, red, yellow&red), so other than vcc i'm not sure what's what (edit: now i think blue is gnd and yellow/red is sense, yellow is d-, green is d+).
I was also expecting the otg short to be on the micro side and not on the usb a side, but it wasn't
my idea is to have the regulator sit inside the hollowed out area of the female header seen on the bottom left

Just take a meter and see what is connected to what. It does not matter where pin 4 and 5 are shorted.
Unfortunately, it looks like without some sort of magic, the port on the kf cannot supply enough current to drive these regulators. Im observing the same thing as southbird did, the devices show up but do not work. Measuring the voltages at the power pins with a flash drive connected i get 2.4v at the vreg input and 4.5 at the output which means that there is too much load. Time to start looking for battery powered usb hubs

this battery charger or this usb charger both work well for me with a y usb cable...i've seen some other posts with folks that just wired right into the charger, e.g. here

ok, the regulator arrived today and i played around with it
the otg cable was too frail for my poor soldering skills to do properly, so i ended up cutting up a usb extension cable to about 1' in length and soldering it halfway...i'll enclosure in heat shrink later
my results were pretty much the same as southbird and altitude909
My 8Gb centon usb however mounts perfectly *every* time, however my 4Gb, 2Gb or 512Mb sticks will not mount. When I try the elago w/ a 32Gb micro it conks out mounting as a whole, requiring a reboot of the KF to remount the 8Gb stick (probably some kernel protection)

so you need a regulator to get flash drives to work? that explains why it never worked for me lol

Close to Studio Quality Audio on Samsung Android devices

So I've been working out how to get studio quality audio on Android with a powered mic for a while now and I finally have it. I'm using XLR to Android with a few adapters, some custom, some purchased. I wanted to share some pictures of how this setup works.
You can check out the previous threadhere, where I showed a resistive method. Today, we're going to use a capacitive method. The hookups are basically the same, however, this method will lead to higher ouptut.
It all starts with a great mic. You will probly already have a mic to use if you're looking at this guide. I can recommend two if you are in the market. The Blue Yeti seems to be the best quality microphone I could find, This microphone can work on USB or XLR, which means, with a proper cable, this single mic will work on the desktop as well as an Android device. The other mic, pictured below is an Audio Technica ATR-6550 http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M . While these are both awesome mics, they serve very different purposes. The Blue Yeti is renowned for its high quality audio reproduction and the ATR-6550 is extremely directional which allows for very focused quality in a noisy environment. Both of these mics will see use from me in various conditions.
To build the Samsung mic to 1/4" adapter, you will need:
A sacrificial Samsung/Apple headphone set with built-in mic. As long as mic works on your device, this should work as well.
Ceramic Capcitor 0.10 uF with marking 104 (or similar small capcitor) Mouser.com part number: 81-RDER71E104K0K103B
A Female 1/4" inline audio jack Radio Shack Model Number 274-141
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For XLR Mic:
An A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 6-feet is more than enough for most circumstances)
For Dual XLR Mic like Yeti:
2 - A3F XLR Jack to 1/4" Plug adapter/Transformer Radio Shack Model Number 274-016
A 1/4" 2-female to 1-male Y adapter Radio Shack Model Number 42-2568
A 1/4" plug-jack extension cable (make it yourself or source it from a local audio shop, Radio Shack has 25-footers, but 2-feet is more than enough for me)
For non-XLR mics
you will just locate an appropriate connector to get mono output. For example if your microphone is a stereo mic with a 1/8" plug, you will need to get something like this
For 5V powered mics like Yeti
You can use a USB OTG adapter for many devices. For those devices which do not provide USB power, you can buy a USB OTG with power, or use this cool hack by redoano
Microphone power
Many modern mics accept 5V USB power. To allow flexibility of use between usb wall-power, desktop/laptop use and USB-OTG power from your targeted device, you can use a zip-tie to strap the USB-OTG adapter 6-8 inches from the end of the USB cable. This allows you to use the USB cable in normal mode, or apply the adapter at any time to power the mic from the device being used. This trick ensures that you never forget the stupid adapter, and the 6-8" placement from the end ensures the cable isn't bent too extraneously.
Creating the Samsung/Apple standard 4-pole adapter
This adapter will work on many other devices, however it's only a known standard on Samsung and Apple devices. I've included a pinout below, but you can check out this thread for more information.
microphone in action
Here you can find a video and a few images of the Blue Yeti which Google+ was nice enough to turn into an animated GIF for me.
conclusion and results
Due to the range of DACs(Digital to Analog Converters) in various devices, your results will vary. I find that the Galaxy Camera's headphone port provides a bit more on the high-end than the low so post-processing to remove hiss and improve bass is required. The same result has been reproduced on all four of my microphones. The Galaxy S3/4 seems a bit more level but experiences the same high-pass effect which is also correctable in post-processing.
This is a great mod if you're looking to move the microphone closer to the source or you're looking to put some hardware to use. I also hope this encourages more people to make those Android videos I love, using their Android devices. Everyone has one, now get a mic and make some cool videos.

When I tried a 0.1 µF capacitor, it was just because one was sitting on my desk.
I didn't put a lot of thought into the value.
The combination of series capacitance and effective input resistance makes a high pass filter.
It's hard to estimate the input resistance of a cell phone without measuring it dynamically.
Since the bias circuit can supply a milliamp or two at 2.5 V, let's go with a worst case of 1 k input resistance.
Let's find the corner frequency of our high pass filter:
F = 1 / (2 * pi * R * C)
0.1 µF and 1 k gives us a 3 dB frequency of 1592 Hz :crying:
That's why there is no bass.
I tried with a 470 µF capacitor (also just randomly on my desk)
The signal level and the bass were much better than with the 0.1 µF
That's not surprising, since the 3 dB frequency is now 0.3 Hz!
Ok, 470 µF is a bit overkill.
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
A tantalum capacitior is small and will work fine.
Just make sure to have the positive end going to the cell phone input, the negative end going to the mic.

Renate NST said:
How about 10 µF and a 3 dB frequency of 16 Hz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting R? Also, this circuit should be calcualted where Frms is run against an LC-pi circuit where L is of unknown value. Note the transformer on this image.
I suppose the calculation shoud be roughly the same with resistance as inductance, but even still, the DAC is not the greatest in the device headset ports and the stock headsets suffer the same problems.
I will try a higher F cap though to see if the quality can improve. This was the smallestcap I had available at the time though which could fit into the housing.

The worst case figure for R of 1 k is based on one scenario for generating the bias current to the electret mic FET.
In very old audio systems the supply voltage would be 6 to 12 volts with a fairly high resistor value.
In most middle-of-the-road PC sound cards, there is a filtered 2.5 volt source fed through a resistor of 1 or 2 k.
In most cell phones, the bias supply is controlled by whether you are in talking/recording mode or idle.
Some cell phones could have a constant current supply which is controlled to keep the average value of the input at the bias point of 2.5 volts.
In this case, the effective resistance would be a function of how much bias current you are drawing.
With a capacitively coupled input, you would be drawing no bias current and the input could have a very high effective resistance.
I guess I'll have to make a few more measurements.

@Renate NST I did some experimentation. Theres a definate difference between the .1uF to 50uF, but 50uF to 100uF did not produce much of a difference. I think 100uF is sufficient. What say you?
Here is a video which starts with .1uF, moves to stock galaxy camera, 50uF, and finally 100uF.
These parts were collected from spare circuit boards and low voltage power supplies.

I think it sounds better with the larger caps.
A 10 µF should really be plenty though.
The difference between 0.1 µF and 10 µF is a factor of 100
Going bigger will not make a big difference.
I think that your cell phone must have a pretty high input resistance already.
It didn't sound horrible with the 0.1 µF

USB microphone /will it work with USB input and 3.5 mm output cable?
Hi I am interested in using the blue yeti to screen record on a rootedins 5.This tutorial was on the yeti xlr but the original has a USB output.If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable will it work with screen recording?

1512tootsie said:
If i get a 3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.

Here's the link
Renate NST said:
If I understand you correctly, I know of no such adapter, it would be a giant step backwards.
If you have a USB mic what you want is a device that has USB host mode (or OTG).
You'll need the correct driver for the USB part and also the driver for the USB audio device.
I don't have a USB integrated mic, but I do have a Lexicon Alpha adapter.
It takes a regular mic as input and presents as a USB peripheral.
My Nook has the drivers in the kernel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cable :3.5mm Male AUX Audio Plug Jack to USB 2.0 Female Adapter Cable by VIMVIP
The cable has a USB input and a 3.5 mm output
I have a nexus 5 that's rooted.I also have a otg cable that works with a mouse USB flash drive and keyboard.Is there any pro condenser microphone that works well with android?

I looked at that adapter and as far as I can tell from the non-English description it's a purely mechanical adapter for car stereos that use a 4 pole 3.5 mm jack on the front panel as a USB connection.

Is any way to re-route via software the Mic to right pins? SImpler: That the phone "ears" the right output?

Perhaps, I'm blind, but I do not see any schematics on how/where connect the capcitor...

Can I just use a normal 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter ?

Hi Adam, Hi Renate,
you will probably get a better adapter from an TRRS video cable. These have better shielded wires than the headphones ones.
I need imperatively an audio input that has no level compression.
Did you care on that? don't more or less all phone mic circuitry compress the signal anyway?

How is it possible?

Thank you for this! It was just what I was looking for!
I'm posting my experience doing this as it may help others who are also trying to do the same (and not know much about electronics, like me ).
I have an condenser microphone that has a USB plug (for power input) and 3.5mm Tip-Ring-Sleeve (TRS) jack (for signal output) on the end of the cable. When I plug the microphone into the computer to record and power the microphone, (or use a wall socket (via a 5v phone charging adapter) for power) there is noticeable hum in the recording. So I wanted to record and power the mic using my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 android smartphone because 1) powering it by the phone would remove A/C power hum, and 2) the recording process is much easier, as I use the phone to record video too. (Note: you can record by plugging the mic into a laptop running on battery to remove the hum, but using my phone was what I really wanted to record with as it is so much easier)
I opened up an old CD ROM drive and took out the audio headphone socket. I salvaged a few capacitors from an old circuit board lying around, and cut the 3.5mm jack plug off some broken headphones.
I then wired up the circuit as best I could from following 1) this post, 2) the two posts referred to in this post:a) https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612 and b) http://www.doityourselfgadgets.com/2014/09/how-to-connect-external-microphone-to.html
I did some testing on a breadboard (I tried adding a 1000 Ohm resistor, and moved the capacitor around the circuit, I used a 0.1 micro Farad capacitor, then changed to a 50micro Farad capacitor and noticed a benefit to the recording volume.)
What I called "testing" someone with electronics knowledge should read as "rolling dice" ...but this picture shows what I ended up with that worked for me (with the finished item after soldering and applying some heatshrink tubing to cover and insulate the adapter).

USB Audio ?

Hi,
I have a Fiio K1 portable amp/dac (powered over usb) which worked perfectly on my old Lumia 950 XL and a Nexus 6P of a friend.
But when I tried with my brand new Galaxy S7 Edge, nothing happens. I don't know if it's the cable (amazon.fr/gp/product/B01861XGX2?ref_=pe_386181_37038081_TE_3p_dp_1) or Samsung's Rom.
Has anyone managed to make it work with an external DAC ?

Nakah95 said:
Hi,
I have a Fiio K1 portable amp/dac (powered over usb) which worked perfectly on my old Lumia 950 XL and a Nexus 6P of a friend.
But when I tried with my brand new Galaxy S7 Edge, nothing happens. I don't know if it's the cable (amazon.fr/gp/product/B01861XGX2?ref_=pe_386181_37038081_TE_3p_dp_1) or Samsung's Rom.
Has anyone managed to make it work with an external DAC ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able connect my Fiio E17. At first the audio sounded distorted and slow, so I closed all of the audio apps and then plugged it in and it started working. I'm using the usb connector that came with the phone.

The Fiio E17 has an integrated battery from what I know.
The K1 is powered directly by the usb port.
There is maybe some power limitation ? However the blue led is on

I don't have s7 yet but my s4 work perfectly with Fiio E10K which powered by usb port and have no battery.
So it should work with s7 too I guess.

NonXtreme said:
I don't have s7 yet but my s4 work perfectly with Fiio E10K which powered by usb port and have no battery.
So it should work with s7 too I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm suspecting my Micro-USB to Micro-USB cable. Could you please tell me which one you're using ?

Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge smartphone, XMOS USB 384K/32bit DAC / amp, VE Monk earphones:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/241156-new-async-xmos-384k-32bit-pcm5102-dac-ebay.html
http://www.head-fi.org/t/783669/ven...5-earbud-that-seriously-deserves-a-place-here
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs
96 kHz file > USB Audio Player PRO (UAPP) running on Galaxy S7 Edge > 96 kHz PCM audio stream >> USB OTG cable >> XMOS USB 384K/32bit DAC / amp >> VE Monk
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96 kHz file > Google Play Music running on Galaxy S7 Edge > 192 kHz PCM audio stream upsampled by Android 6.0.1 audio subsystem >> USB OTG cable >> XMOS USB 384K/32bit DAC / amp >> VE Monk
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------
Nakah95 said:
Hi,
I have a Fiio K1 portable amp/dac (powered over usb) which worked perfectly on my old Lumia 950 XL and a Nexus 6P of a friend.
But when I tried with my brand new Galaxy S7 Edge, nothing happens. I don't know if it's the cable (amazon.fr/gp/product/B01861XGX2?ref_=pe_386181_37038081_TE_3p_dp_1) or Samsung's Rom.
Has anyone managed to make it work with an external DAC ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FiiO K1 is compatible with the USB audio of USB Audio Player PRO (UAPP).
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/2015-07-22-12-01-14/usb-audio-driver
Android USB audio - FAQ:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3XYy1FuzDUea3U3aTJ1RkpQdW8/edit

Can anyone kindly help. I too did buy the Fiio K1, but no luck with audio. Any thoughts on any specific cable to use?

I've changed my cables and it's still not working with my Fiio K1

Nakah95 said:
I'm suspecting my Micro-USB to Micro-USB cable. Could you please tell me which one you're using ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for late reply
The cable I use is the samsung one bought from samsung brand shop.
Also I have already got S7E, both samsung one and the one that come in the box work fine with my fiio e10k with S7E
I think your dac isn't support but it might work with "usb audio player pro" since my old AQ dragonfly also isn't working with the stock audio but it work fine when using "usb audio player pro" .

Hopefully my oppo ha2 will work
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Post deleted

i'm having the same issue where i hear no sound coming from the DAC using Spotify, i also tried the usb player pro trial still no sound

Nakah95 said:
Hi,
I have a Fiio K1 portable amp/dac (powered over usb) which worked perfectly on my old Lumia 950 XL and a Nexus 6P of a friend.
But when I tried with my brand new Galaxy S7 Edge, nothing happens. I don't know if it's the cable (amazon.fr/gp/product/B01861XGX2?ref_=pe_386181_37038081_TE_3p_dp_1) or Samsung's Rom.
Has anyone managed to make it work with an external DAC ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you try to change usb configuration under developer options menu? There is Audio source there. Maybe that change can help you solve the problem
Cheers

t_rushpower said:
did you try to change usb configuration under developer options menu? There is Audio source there. Maybe that change can help you solve the problem
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I tried but it doesn't work

I dont know the equipment you are using.
But if your using it in the USB, then Driver support is required?
Can you confirm the Kernel supports the Native Drivers your device requires?
Normally a Modified kernel is needed to load in some additional drivers.
(I use a 7.1 Surround sound headset, that uses a USB Dongle as a Wireless sender / Receiver)
Natively this is not supported , On my previous device (Note 3) i modified the kernel to load the additional driver set.
Unable to do this on the s7 edge at this time.

fiio e17k works perfect with s7e
My diy usb otg

I just wanted to add my experience with the Fiio k1 with my S7 Edge. It doesn't work at all after trying 2 different OTG adapters, messing with this dev USB option, and everything else I could think of. Does anyone have the Fiio K1 working with the S7 Edge? I might jsut get the Alpen 2, but before I do I want to see if I can get it working. The little blue light does turn on and all I get for audio is a screeching weird noise. The K1 works with my Nexus 6P just fine, so I know the unit isn't broken. Any help/suggestions would be great

I've had no luck with the FiiO E07K Andes. All I get is distorted sound, played pitch shifted down and slow.

bkrodgers said:
I've had no luck with the FiiO E07K Andes. All I get is distorted sound, played pitch shifted down and slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder why Samsung made USB audio such a hassle, I can plug and go bis my Nexus 6P/HTC 10 so I was hoping the S7 E would be the same but its not.

Pilz said:
I wonder why Samsung made USB audio such a hassle, I can plug and go bis my Nexus 6P/HTC 10 so I was hoping the S7 E would be the same but its not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it musst be Samsungs fault because i have a HiFime Sabre 9018 USB DAC and with my LG G2 and a crappy China Smartphone it works verry well but on my S7E i get stutters every 3 seconds, does anyone have a clue what to do or try?
THX