I have a 8525 that is 14 months old and has been working wonderfully all this time. A few days ago it started to shut itself off at no repeatable times. I pull it out and it is off! I try to load something and it shuts down instead. Today I did a total wipe and reinstalled from a back up. The same problem occurred. I wiped it again and installed a 2 month old backup and the same thing occurred. I have changed the battery. The memory is fine. The only thing that I have not tried is a wipe and a reinstall from scratch, but obviously would prefer not to do that.
WM 6.1 is running
Check to see if your battery connection isn't lose. If the power keeps shutting off for no reason in your pocket it could be that its not making proper connection. If you bought another battery that wasn't a HTC original then it may not be Quite the right size. I had this problem with an extended battery I bought. It was about 1/2mm less width than an original but that was enough to be a problem. A piece of paper between the battery and the casing fixed this.
Cheers...
not the problem
Thanks, but the battery is not the problem as the spare battery is one that I have been using for 6 months and the other one that I tried is the factory battery. Unfortunately, it is more serious than this.
I'm having similar problems with my Hermes...and I bought it ~14months ago too, refurbished, it's a Voda v1605, uk ebay seller.
Actually mine stays powered most of the time and it's not a SW problem: I'm trying various ROMs and I'm 100% sure the problem is HW-based.
Well it's much I have this prob and don't have any warranty, so I opened it and tried to "manually" solve this matter: I put a page between my qwerty and the motherboard, and this, together with some paper under the battery, solved the problem at most.
Now it switches off less frequently, but still not enough to safely bring it in my pocket and always find it switched on after taking it off
I tried to get it repaired but they told me they'd change the motherboard for +/- the price of a "as-new" 2nd hand one
I hope you solve, but if you don't....then I think we have to sell it "as-damaged" (or return it in warranty if you have)...I'm actually looking for a Diamond or TyTn II (see hard choice... thread ) and leave this dear mate
what i was afraid of
This is what I was afraid of. No warranty here so have been thinking of moving to the Tilt, but I am leaving town in a day and have no time to get and set it up.
Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...
ultramag69 said:
Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm ready to go, I want my Hermes back
Can you point me to some photos to understand where to solder the connectors better?
I mean, I've already seen them (so many times hehe), I also have that cool yellow gauge that could be useful to understand if they don't "touch" correctly, but I'm not sure I understood where are the soldering points
A photo with some arrow could be useful (or something similar lol).
Many thanks for your help mate!
The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...
ultramag69 said:
The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.
ErMeglio said:
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry was feeling a bit sick yesterday and didn't reply.
Having looked at the pics an video, I am begining to think one of two things:
1. There may be a crack in one of the battery connector soldered joints
Or
2. This has nothing to do with the battery connector and may have more to do with the general condition of the phone.
Number one could probably only be checked by re-soldering the contacts.
Number two is quite unspecific. You see when I look at the pics and see the gaps in the casing, and some damage to internal plastic, I get the feeling that the circuit boards etc are probably not be firmly held in place. In other words there is likely quite a bit of movement internally and between the two halves of the phone.
This in itself could cause the battery to move around. It could also cause the rigid flex cables to move at their connectors.
I think you need to check each and every connector is well inserted AND try to firm up all the looseness and movement internally and in the casing . I'm not sure that wlll be an easy job given some plastic parts appear broken.
I think it's going to be difficult to give further advice (not being able to see and feel the device directly.)
However, I'll have a look at my Hermes this weekend, and try to establish a link between pressing certain areas of the keyboard and a total shutdown.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike, don't have to apologize, you're offering free help
Anyway, I have the WORST news for you....my Hermes has gone, completely.
After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
I tried to leave it outdoor these 2 days to see if magically that spray which left a film everywhere would have evaporated but this didn't help.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said, it has a cutting tip just to make you understand, anyway I've just toggled the battery conn with it (I had nothing to loose) and I have the 2 centered one which took away a dark "film", and on the motherboard I have the 2 silver connectors on each side, which touch 2-by-2, and the 2 centered one which are completely black...don't know if I damaged something that way...
I think tomorrow I could try to weld 4 wires (what are the centered one for?) and see what happens...what do you think?
I'd like to try everything to even explore the 0,01% possibilities to see it working again...
[EDIT 1]
Just updated my album on photobucket with the new photos...
After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it means the battery is not charging - which suggests the connector is now disconnected even if it wasn't before.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
Anyway. To be honest, given the general condition of the phone and it's various problems - I think you should start looking for a new phone - you will never be able to rely on the one you have there.
You could also consider making a small amount of money ny selling off parts from the one you have. Folk here are always looking for difficult to find parts.
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Mike
mikechannon said:
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
mikechannon said:
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
–verb (used with object)
1.to unite or fuse (as pieces of metal) by hammering, compressing, or the like, esp. after rendering soft or pasty by heat, and sometimes with the addition of fusible material like or unlike the pieces to be united.
2.to bring into complete union, harmony, agreement, etc. –verb (used without object)
3.to undergo welding; be capable of being welded: a metal that welds easily.
–noun
4.a welded junction or joint.
5.the act of welding or the state of being welded.
And also:
Weld"er\, n. One(A PERSON??) who welds, or unites pieces of iron, etc., by welding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
mikechannon said:
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!
ErMeglio said:
Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you have nothing more to lose by continuing to try things out on the Hermes.
A couple of points regarding your pictures. You know you can upload the pictures to photobucket and then using the direct link that photbucket gives you below the picture you can then post the picture on XDA-Dev. You use the little "insert image" icon when writing a post. As shown here:
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My v1605 opened/
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I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)
mikechannon said:
I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't try to add all them here because, you know, photobucket slideshow is so sexy
Thanks for the lesson I needed, much appreciated
I just realized the "rude" adjective refers to a person, I used it because in Italian saying something/someone is "rude" or "rudimentale" means it/he is simple, old, rudimentary or primitive...and here we use it for both things and people...think you'd say unkind if it was a person.
Speaking of the Hermes, those 2 black ""connectors"" you see on the board in that photo have not something "more" comparing to the others, but something LESS! It's sort of scaring after having read about the layers, because under the gold connectors, after having removed them, I could detach just a sort of LAYER (that's what I meant with film), which btw didn't seem conducting side-by-side
Will update when I have some time to try the cables ""solution""!
p.s. You'd LOVE Selen's sexy sensual voice for TomTom I think...she's (was) an Italian pornostar still well known...See Wiki!!
Did you remove the traces? That's almost what the pics look like. By that I mean the gold under the solder.
Related
Hi Friends
Today i fall out (drop) the glass of cofee on my athena, and then:
i take off battery quickly, and then i clean cofee from device and keyboard...:-(
and until now, i dont insert battery, please say me what i must do?
is may my athena died?:-(
i reject battery and clean cofee quickly but i think it maybe be damaged
my last nokia 7710, dont damage with one time i fall out water on it
i hope it was like Nokia 7710:-(
sorry for my long post and very bad english:-(
Arya said:
Hi Friends
Today i fall out (drop) the glass of cofee on my athena, and then:
i take off battery quickly, and then i clean cofee from device and keyboard...:-(
and until now, i dont insert battery, please say me what i must do?
is may my athena died?:-(
i reject battery and clean cofee quickly but i think it maybe be damaged
my last nokia 7710, dont damage with one time i fall out water on it
i hope it was like Nokia 7710:-(
sorry for my long post and very bad english:-(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was any sugar in the coffee? Milk?
I will suggest just to clean the outside with a wet paper towel, then with a dry one... athena is quite protected. Use a contact cleaner for USB and cable port, waitsince it is completely dry then insert the battery, the SIM card and SD and cross your fingers...
sergiopi said:
There was any sugar in the coffee? Milk?
I will suggest just to clean the outside with a wet paper towel, then with a dry one... athena is quite protected. Use a contact cleaner for USB and cable port, waitsince it is completely dry then insert the battery, the SIM card and SD and cross your fingers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tank for your quick answer
I think it has suger:-(
but it was in the case and was closed, and cofee fallout on case and a little on case and i clean it with a dry paper
i haven't contact cleaner for usb abd cable port. (i don't think cofee go there)
i don't reject SIM card and SD.
do now i reject them?
the cofee fallout in around 8 o'clock and now is 12:23
is it neccery to do all of thease work?
tomorrow morning is good time to insert battery?
sorry for my long post and bad english
Just don't use it for today...
If something would help, it would be this:
Find a manual for disassembling the device (you just need to put the display out of the device).
Then you should just spray a LITTLE BIT of contact cleaner on the device.
(Contact cleaner = That spray what you use when it's winter and you can't use the locks of doors with your keys).
That will give more chance of the device working than that it dies while waiting.
You don't have a "contact cleaner"? Then tomorrow buy one and don't use the device for today (leave the battery out too).
If this all fails due to you being lazy then just go to a telecom store which repairs phones and pray that they won't break the device. Not everyone understands how to handle PDA's. Especially, not an Athena type.
TryOG said:
Just don't use it for today...
If something would help, it would be this:
Find a manual for disassembling the device (you just need to put the display out of the device).
Then you should just spray a LITTLE BIT of contact cleaner on the device.
(Contact cleaner = That spray what you use when it's winter and you can't use the locks of doors with your keys).
That will give more chance of the device working than that it dies while waiting.
You don't have a "contact cleaner"? Then tomorrow buy one and don't use the device for today (leave the battery out too).
If this all fails due to you being lazy then just go to a telecom store which repairs phones and pray that they won't break the device. Not everyone understands how to handle PDA's. Especially, not an Athena type.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tanX for your answer
how i open the device? where i can find manual? i think i can't open the unit!!
tanX for helps, and other think is keyboard
my firend say cofee fall on keyboard too and he clean it with a dry paper
is thease work enouth or do more?
please say me which place i must use contact cleaner?
and tomorrow when i want to buy one, i go to get a normal contact cleaner? model is not important?
sorry for my bad post and tanX for your quickly reply
Manual:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!4472423472DCFC38!272.entry
techntrek said:
Manual:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!4472423472DCFC38!272.entry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tanX a lot friend
i try all of these and i hope my device go back, and work sucesfully
Arya said:
tanX a lot friend
i try all of these and i hope my device go back, and work sucesfully
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dumped coffee in a desktop keyboard once and just drained it out. It dried and worked for 6 months. The contacts corroded from the acids in the coffee but it took some time. I probably would consider washing out the keyboard (detached from the 7500, of course) and drying it thoroughly under a lamp or with a fan until completely dry.
Wait to see if anybody else would like to comment on this before you do it. It might be the end of the keyboard but you probably could get a replacement from HTC if necessary.
Brad
miterb said:
I dumped coffee in a desktop keyboard once and just drained it out. It dried and worked for 6 months. The contacts corroded from the acids in the coffee but it took some time. I probably would consider washing out the keyboard (detached from the 7500, of course) and drying it thoroughly under a lamp or with a fan until completely dry.
Wait to see if anybody else would like to comment on this before you do it. It might be the end of the keyboard but you probably could get a replacement from HTC if necessary.
Brad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tanX a lot friend
i wait to other comment to know what i must do?!!
Do you think keyboard is damage now?
are you say i wash keyboard with water complatly?!!!!
Arya said:
tanX a lot friend
i wait to other comment to know what i must do?!!
Do you think keyboard is damage now?
are you say i wash keyboard with water complatly?!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would call HTC to see if they think coffee/cream could have entered around the keys and to ask what they think you should do.
There does not appear to be any way to open it up and clean it so the only way would be to put it in running water that I can see. However, it might also make the keyboard unuseable. Only you can decide.
Brad
miterb said:
I would call HTC to see if they think coffee/cream could have entered around the keys and to ask what they think you should do.
There does not appear to be any way to open it up and clean it so the only way would be to put it in running water that I can see. However, it might also make the keyboard unuseable. Only you can decide.
Brad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tanX for your reply
how can i ask from HTC?
I'm in iran and my engilsh is bad
is there any email for these works?!
Hi all good friends
This nice flower for all of you that help and answer me to reback my athena
now i can do it.
my athena is now work perfect...
My friend Mehrdad say me:Only insert battery to unit and turn it on
i do this and device wakeup
tanX a lot my dear mehrad
Rasti Hirad Jan, mehrad too PT behet salam resoond, goft kheili vaghte nadidatet!!
now i'm a Athena MAN too, like all of you
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the only thing is my problem yet, is keyboard
i don't attach it yet...
maybe if i attach it, it damage or ...?
my friend say i press button until tommorow and then attach it...
Techntrek,
The Zip download of the manual (#5) has come up as corrupted - I've tried a couple of times from home and work (both Xp machines).
Have you downloaded and extracted it successfully?
yes, I got it a week ago. Im not sure what the other 4 files are for, Ive only opened the zip file.
Next time you wet your phone, this article may provide some very useful tips on how to deal with it.
http://www.mobilehornet.com/archives/646
eaglesteve said:
Next time you wet your phone, this article may provide some very useful tips on how to deal with it.
http://www.mobilehornet.com/archives/646
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tanX for your post
tonight i going to take water on my athena to wet that, and then test these ways to repair my athena
Arya said:
tanX for your post
tonight i going to take water on my athena to wet that, and then test these ways to repair my athena
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL. You're getting to be Wet and Wild!
eaglesteve said:
LOL. You're getting to be Wet and Wild!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yesterday i thinking, and now i dont want to get wet my athena, because maybe it be cold (headcold)
last time, that i fell down the cofee, because my athena like cofee;-)
techntrek said:
yes, I got it a week ago. Im not sure what the other 4 files are for, Ive only opened the zip file.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 5 files because it is what is known as a split archive. In other words the file is so big, that on the server it has to be split up in order to upload it. With these archives you download all parts and then open the one marked ZIP. When it extracts the files it automatically looks for the other four parts. If you don't bother downloading the other parts it will just give you an error.
Mike
For those who are/have/and still experiencing specs of dust underneath the touchscreen....
... I will endeavor on a journey using iFixIt.com's Nexus One Teardown Guide. There will be no need to document me taking apart the device, however, I will be taking pictures of the dust, the location of the leak, me cleaning the device, and an attempt to seal the leak. I bought the essential tools from ifixit.com: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, T4 Torx Screwdriver, iPod Opening Tools. This came out to a total of $12.85. I then used a $5.00 coupon code (11221FIXIT) bringing me down to $7.85. There is no sales tax unless you live in CA. Shipping was $3.17.
Long story short - I was tired of looking at the dust, tired of the HTC folks say "sorry, you voided your warranty" and "sorry, we only send you a refurbished device, not your own or a new one". So, I spent the $11 and I'm going to fix it on my own. WISH ME LUCK.
Here is the link to the teardown:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
*******UPDATE*******
Alright folks - I took the time out of my day to open my Nexus One and clean off the dust underneath the screen. I took pictures. Here is my assessment after completing this daunting task.
PROS
-NO MORE DUST!!!!!!
-NOOOOOOOOOOOOO MORE DUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSST!!!!
CONS
-Takes a lot of time (2.5 hours)
-There is now a smear on the bottom of the screen now - it can only be seen in direct sunlight
-Putting it back together is an ASS-PAIN. Such a pain in fact, by the time I was finished there were still 2 screws left, and 3 weird rubbery pieces that I left out.
The phone is back together and in excellent working shape
All in all, only do this if you have the amount of dust under your screen like I did. I am happy with the results but I think I want a BRAND NEW PHONE. Oh well.. Enjoy the pics.
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jagjr86 said:
For those who are/have/and still experiencing specs of dust underneath the touchscreen....
... I will endeavor on a journey using iFixIt.com's Nexus One Teardown Guide. There will be no need to document me taking apart the device, however, I will be taking pictures of the dust, the location of the leak, me cleaning the device, and an attempt to seal the leak. I bought the essential tools from ifixit.com: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, T4 Torx Screwdriver, iPod Opening Tools. This came out to a total of $12.85. I then used a $5.00 coupon code (11221FIXIT) bringing me down to $7.85. There is no sales tax unless you live in CA. Shipping was $3.17.
Long story short - I was tired of looking at the dust, tired of the HTC folks say "sorry, you voided your warranty" and "sorry, we only send you a refurbished device, not your own or a new one". So, I spent the $11 and I'm going to fix it on my own. WISH ME LUCK.
Here is the link to the teardown:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck, can't wait to hear what you find. Can you take pictures pre-doing this all? Specifically of the dust build up?
Ok, most important thing to do. Make sure you are in a clean room! Maybe even a Clean Room. Otherwise you will end up putting more dust in than you take out. Cheapest way is to run a hot shower and let the place fog up and then settle to get the dust out of the air. But probably not a good thing to open your phone while it is still fully fogged up as you'll get condensation inside it
wesbalmer said:
Good luck, can't wait to hear what you find. Can you take pictures pre-doing this all? Specifically of the dust build up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, of course I'll take pictures of the dust BEFORE I disassemble the device. And then I'll take the AFTER pictures when it's reassembled.
Clarkster said:
Ok, most important thing to do. Make sure you are in a clean room! Maybe even a Clean Room. Otherwise you will end up putting more dust in than you take out. Cheapest way is to run a hot shower and let the place fog up and then settle to get the dust out of the air. But probably not a good thing to open your phone while it is still fully fogged up as you'll get condensation inside it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome tip! Thanks.
yeah i cant stress enough to make sure you do this in a claean environment. i tried doing this with my nokia e71, and i never could get the screen lcd clean no matter what i tried! as i put it back together, little particles would just gravitate to it no matter what. i would wipe and try to quickly put it together, more dust. tried again, more dust. over and over.
here at work we have cleanrooms at a extremely high rating. if only i could use them to disassemble my smartphone.
Subscribed!
Eager to see what sort of luck you have
good luck, also would like to see pictures and hear you findings and the tough parts to tear down.
how big of an issue is this on the nexus ones?
im planning on getting one and i dont want to get one if these problems are frequent
k20a1 said:
how big of an issue is this on the nexus ones?
im planning on getting one and i dont want to get one if these problems are frequent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you get a nexus just press down on the bottom by the capacitive buttons. If the screen creaks or feels like it gives just follow what Uansari1 did and heat it with a hair dryer for a few seconds from like 5in. away and the press firmly around the screen. It will help to reseal.
oaky thanks ill keep that in mind
so its a pretty common problem then?
it was for the launch nexus', im sure (hopefully) they have it all sorted out by now.
jagjr86 said:
For those who are/have/and still experiencing specs of dust underneath the touchscreen....
... I will endeavor on a journey using iFixIt.com's Nexus One Teardown Guide. There will be no need to document me taking apart the device, however, I will be taking pictures of the dust, the location of the leak, me cleaning the device, and an attempt to seal the leak. I bought the essential tools from ifixit.com: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, T4 Torx Screwdriver, iPod Opening Tools. This came out to a total of $12.85. I then used a $5.00 coupon code (11221FIXIT) bringing me down to $7.85. There is no sales tax unless you live in CA. Shipping was $3.17.
Long story short - I was tired of looking at the dust, tired of the HTC folks say "sorry, you voided your warranty" and "sorry, we only send you a refurbished device, not your own or a new one". So, I spent the $11 and I'm going to fix it on my own. WISH ME LUCK.
Here is the link to the teardown:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird. I have called HTC. I am on my second exchange from them with the same issue. Dust under the screen. I have yet to be asked if my bootloader is unlocked and they have not said anything about my warrenty being void. I am getting my second replacement phone tomorrow from HTC. I called them last night about 6PM PST.
k20a1 said:
oaky thanks ill keep that in mind
so its a pretty common problem then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont think it was a common problem at all. but then i have seen threads with many people havng this issue. so far my nexus has not had this issue at all and its over 3 months old. so i dont know. but i DO know that if you look in the iphone forums, dust under the screen threads are all over there too. even windows mobile forums have the same threads. so it seems like its a problem with most touch screen phones.
futango said:
Weird. I have called HTC. I am on my second exchange from them with the same issue. Dust under the screen. I have yet to be asked if my bootloader is unlocked and they have not said anything about my warrenty being void. I am getting my second replacement phone tomorrow from HTC. I called them last night about 6PM PST.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They put a $500+ hold on your credit card. They won't tell you that you will lose that money if you've unlocked your bootloader. My guess is, they're hoping you've voided your warranty, sent in an unlocked phone, and now they keep the money. I also asked them how much it would cost to repair it... They estimated $179. BULL****.. I KNOW.
jagjr86 said:
They put a $500+ hold on your credit card. They won't tell you that you will lose that money if you've unlocked your bootloader. My guess is, they're hoping you've voided your warranty, sent in an unlocked phone, and now they keep the money. I also asked them how much it would cost to repair it... They estimated $179. BULL****.. I KNOW.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah. Theres alredy a big thread about this. They do put a $530 hold on your CC. But the hold is gone once they receive the phone. If they WANT to charge you the its usually a $28 repair fee or you have a choice of sending back the replacement phone.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=613115&highlight=dust
Re: Clean the DUST out from under the Screen!
oaky thanks ill keep that in mind
so its a pretty common problem then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have my nexus for 3 months and there no dust under the screen. I have also a hero for 9 months and no dust there also. I saw the threads to maybe people work in dusty places or they have a loot of dust in their pockets
-------------------------------------
Sent via the XDA Tapatalk App
If it's any consolation, I've had my replacement N1 since the 3rd week it was out... as someone said, as soon as I got it, I heated it up and pressed firmly all around the screen to make sure it was tightly sealed. It's still dust free today.
uansari1 said:
If it's any consolation, I've had my replacement N1 since the 3rd week it was out... as someone said, as soon as I got it, I heated it up and pressed firmly all around the screen to make sure it was tightly sealed. It's still dust free today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will have to do this when I get my replacement N1 from HTC. I didnt do it with the first replacement and now theres just after 4 weeks of use.
k20a1 said:
how big of an issue is this on the nexus ones?
im planning on getting one and i dont want to get one if these problems are frequent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been selling a couple a week at the cell phone store I work for, and haven't seen this on a single one of those. I would say all in all, I have sold about 20 Nexus One now.
Personally, I think the issue goes back to these shipping out during January during the coldest period of the winter, even having freezing temps all the way into Texas... I suspect that that phones got cold enough that through contraction and added brittleness of the adhesive in a cold state, the seal broke.
So, I decided to fix my G2 hinge which was a little on the loose side but didn't want to use magnets because it would affect the Compass. If you don't think magnets do affect the compass, i invite you to open up HTC or Google Navigation GPS app and wave a magnet around your phone and watch your direction change.
In any case, I looked for a teardown online in hopes that it would show the actual spring mechanism for the Z-Hinge...but all of them seemed to have skip that part. So...here's a photo of the ACTUAL MECHANISM responsible for the "snapping/springy" action of the phone. As you can imagine, assuming you can get to this point in terms of disassembly, tightening up the mechanism is SUPER EASY. All you have to do is take out the spring, stretch it, put it back in. I think the only way they could have made this mechanism smaller and more reliable is to have used a tiny hydraulic piston in place of the spring, but since I'm an EE and not a Mech Eng. well, what do I know!
<EDIT>
Link with instructions for taking apart your phone. You will need a T5 Screwdriver and a puny Phillips Screwdriver.
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
</EDIT>
Ok, without further ado:
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Enjoy!
verkion
P.S. I can have the KB open, G2 upside down and shake it fairly vigorously before it will begin to close now! Definite improvement!
Damn...
Assuming you could find a spring small enough to fit you could buy a spring with a higher tension. That's what I did with my Ruger LCP to help the feeding cycle.
You could have taken a couple dissemblely pics to help us get to that point.
Thanks for the info.
Might want to add this voids warranty. Lol. Secondly if you could add some insight as to how you actually managed to disasemble the phone to access the hinge. That would be great. Might actually try this myself. Big might. Lol.
[G2/HTC Vision]
luis86dr said:
Might want to add this voids warranty. Lol. Secondly if you could add some insight as to how you actually managed to disasemble the phone to access the hinge. That would be great. Might actually try this myself. Big might. Lol.
[G2/HTC Vision]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tear down is here...
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
You only need to tear it down as far as PCB Removal to access the spring mechanism in the hinge (its the top side near the power button). BE SUPER DUPER careful with PLUGGING IN the micro-SD ribbon cable when you reassemble. One of the spring tension pins (its a flip up type ribbon cable clamp), broke off on me. I was like OMFG for about 2 minutes until I realized it was just the tension pin NOT an actual connection pin.
Oh yeah, and for anyone that hasn't figured this out already...WARRANTY = VOID!!! Oh, and the normal CYA (cover your a$$ clauses) apply...I'm not responsible for any damage etc. etc. etc. that YOU might cause doing this fix/mod.
verkion
verkion said:
Tear down is here...
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
You only need to tear it down as far as PCB Removal to access the spring mechanism in the hinge (its the top side near the power button). BE SUPER DUPER careful with PLUGGING IN the micro-SD ribbon cable when you reassemble. One of the spring tension pins (its a flip up type ribbon cable clamp), broke off on me. I was like OMFG for about 2 minutes until I realized it was just the tension pin NOT an actual connection pin.
Oh yeah, and for anyone that hasn't figured this out already...WARRANTY = VOID!!! Oh, and the normal CYA (cover your a$$ clauses) apply...I'm not responsible for any damage etc. etc. etc. that YOU might cause doing this fix/mod.
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks bro.
[G2/HTC Vision]
Excellent post, thanx
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using XDA App
Thanks for finding a REAL cure! Magnets lol! morons... nice work though! I glad you found a fix for those how have (or imagine they have) a hinge problem. maybe this will shut folks up about this finally...
Nice job man. Quite the set of balls you got there my friend. I may try this when my warranty expires.(and my hinge gets to a point where i can,t stand it.)
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Now I havn't tried magnets on this phone (or any other).. but I do know that the magnetic strength of magnetic tape, such as was used in the other "fix" is not very strong at all, as it barely strong enough to work as the fix it was intended to do, for this reason I could believe that it had no effect on the compass.
However sure, if you use a proper magnet it will mess things up.
However, very nice job on this but I doubt many will want to void their warranty when they could just send it back under warranty and do it that way.
Lennyuk said:
Now I havn't tried magnets on this phone (or any other).. but I do know that the magnetic strength of magnetic tape, such as was used in the other "fix" is not very strong at all, as it barely strong enough to work as the fix it was intended to do, for this reason I could believe that it had no effect on the compass.
However sure, if you use a proper magnet it will mess things up.
However, very nice job on this but I doubt many will want to void their warranty when they could just send it back under warranty and do it that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct about the warranty. Although there are a few stickers on the torx screws that say void... they won't refuse your phone and claim that your warranty is voided. Its bs. They just check for eextremely obvious things like water damage and physical damage. I was a cell tech forever... they hardly care about that crap like is its rooted or whatever. Just don't make it too obvious like a phone stuck in a boot loop with cyanogen logo flashing over and over, lol!
But it does depend on the tech... if he/she is an asshole and dont root their own phones or hack... they could reject it. personally, I think those are the type that have no buisness being a tech nor would understand that rooting a phone is going to cause any serious damage to it. unless you flash the wrong spl/hardboot but at that point... 90% likely it wont even boot into bootloader in which there's no way to tell what happened whether it was a custom flash or a bad board. those are instant replacements as long as there's no physical/liquid damage. well, sorry for hijacking the thread and my poor spelling. good work with the hinge, OP! those ribbons can be a pain to reseat!
I'm doing this tonight @ work. Thanks for being the guinea pig.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
dude great find....but way toooooooooo deep for me....If my hinge continues to drive me insane, I'll just start calling tmo like crazy until they give me a anew phone.
Stretching the spring is a good temporary fix. The best real fix would be to find one the same size but with a higher spring tension. Good find none the less.
So I HEARD something interesting today. TRY THIS....
1st: Turn Off Unlock sounds if you can.........
2nd. Put the G2 close to you face, open the screen (top) very SLOWLY.... when the screen is parallel to the keyboard (halfway) push it a little bit more and you will HEAR a CLICK..... im guessing its the spring... but my understanding is that if spring stays stationary (in one spot) and just twists..... there shouldn't be a click sound..... which means something is mis-aligned (maybe the hinge part that is connected to the spring)... my hinge came in good condition, still stays intact when I hold the phone upside down.
Those of you with loose hinge... I encourage you to try this....
funkadesi said:
So I HEARD something interesting today. TRY THIS....
1st: Turn Off Unlock sounds if you can.........
2nd. Put the G2 close to you face, open the screen (top) very SLOWLY.... when the screen is parallel to the keyboard (halfway) push it a little bit more and you will HEAR a CLICK..... im guessing its the spring... but my understanding is that if spring stays stationary (in one spot) and just twists..... there shouldn't be a click sound..... which means something is mis-aligned (maybe the hinge part that is connected to the spring)... my hinge came in good condition, still stays intact when I hold the phone upside down.
Those of you with loose hinge... I encourage you to try this....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um .... click? misaligned? i think that if it twists, then it should be in good shape as it's doing what it ought to be doing.
Either way, my hinge sucks, and there is no click....
I was just thinking about what the teardown again. Now that I really consider it, I don't think that I had to unplug all the cables, just unscrew the PCB. I think there is enough slack to carefully maneuver the hinge out..maybe. LOL. Where do you get replacement springs? I guess I should really have measured the length...maybe I still can from my photo and a couple reference points.
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
Mine just started clicking when I open it..just started on Sunday and can't figure it out.
collins521 said:
Mine just started clicking when I open it..just started on Sunday and can't figure it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ignore the click...its not a "misalignment" of the spring or stars or whatever else. Look at the photo I posted, it doesn't matter if the spring twists. In fact, I'm pretty sure it does swivel and move in there. The back end of the spring is simply braced against the metal side. The other end against the actual "pivot" (2 pieces of very smartly cut plastic) is "centered" in place with a small pin jut like most other hinge/spring mechanisms.
Now if someone could tell me where to get a super strong spring...I'll be all over that! LOL. It was already really hard to get the spring back in after I stretched it but a mega strong one would be worth the hassle...
verkion
verkion said:
Ignore the click...its not a "misalignment" of the spring or stars or whatever else. Look at the photo I posted, it doesn't matter if the spring twists. In fact, I'm pretty sure it does swivel and move in there. The back end of the spring is simply braced against the metal side. The other end against the actual "pivot" (2 pieces of very smartly cut plastic) is "centered" in place with a small pin jut like most other hinge/spring mechanisms.
Now if someone could tell me where to get a super strong spring...I'll be all over that! LOL. It was already really hard to get the spring back in after I stretched it but a mega strong one would be worth the hassle...
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check McMaster Carr. They have a ton of things.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#springs/=a1qb2j
verkion said:
Ignore the click...its not a "misalignment" of the spring or stars or whatever else. Look at the photo I posted, it doesn't matter if the spring twists. In fact, I'm pretty sure it does swivel and move in there. The back end of the spring is simply braced against the metal side. The other end against the actual "pivot" (2 pieces of very smartly cut plastic) is "centered" in place with a small pin jut like most other hinge/spring mechanisms.
Now if someone could tell me where to get a super strong spring...I'll be all over that! LOL. It was already really hard to get the spring back in after I stretched it but a mega strong one would be worth the hassle...
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just to be sure....the stretching of the spring worked for you....you actually got it to be tight?
Hello all
I had a chance to buy 15 units of G3, all broken or faulty. The purchase was made via an Swiss operator who was about to recycle the devices, but instead of recycling I bought them via some program for that. They dont pay for recycling, I get the devices extremely cheap, no one pays any tax (Switzerland stuff and their laws)
First of all I want to say - LG made a phenomenal job of envisioning a device - G3 was superb compared to all the phones released in that time period (S5, OPO1, Z2/Z3, etc) with it's bleeding edge technology and phenomenal design (which I am sure inspired others to go bezel-less and edgy and so on). 2K screen, great chipset, infrared focus and insane camera quality, etc.
Only thing they made bad was actual hardware assembly: I have never seen such bad work in modern electronics judging just by the amount of extra-flux you can see on the motherboards, looks extremely sloppy. That kind of assembly eventually led to 1000 problems, which I am sure all of us G3 owners experienced past the 24 month warranty period. Some would go so far to say that this stuff with G3 could be considered Planned obsolescence with all the problems appearing just around the 24 months clock, and with the MM update (taking into account that LG held the Nexus flag at that moment and they went over their heads thinking they are going to surpass Samsung, just like Samsung did to HTC)
My 15 units were:
- 6 units BSOD
- 5 units screen flicker
- 2 units "wifi turning on"
- 2 units sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card
Note: I am not electrician and I dont understand how to read schematics, all of my info came from people that I figured best know how to repair mobile phone stuff (and also speak THE WORST english)
G3 motherboard layout for future reference:
http://i.imgsafe.org/1b64bf1021.jpg
1. BSOD -
The problem is with bad BGA solder of MMC chip. Not the actual chip (very rare occurrence). In short: BGA Solder is type of assembly that uses little balls of solder instead of pins, to hold the chip in place. There are more than 60+ balls on the MMC chip so no homemade replacement is possible (there is actually a turkish video which is NOT the way to do it as the guy doesnt add new balls, just strips old ones away)
permanent solution: give it into a repair shop to replace or do a proper reball of the Sandisk memory chip
semi-permanent solution (sometimes works 100%): give the chip a heat of 120-150 celsius (no american units, sorry) for 2 minutes (using a high powered hair dryer of at least 2000W, or a proper heat-gun) with slight push (I used wooden objects so that Metalic ones wouldnt damage the chip) > this repaired total of 5 BSOD phones, just one went dead completely after several tries. ALL of my 5 units never went back to BSOD. Please, DO NOT use ovens or anything like that, If you dont have a god-damn hair dryer give it to a technician and ask him to blow it for a minute or so. Ovens WILL burn other parts of the board, and knowing how shi*ty the whole assembly is, baking the board will just detach other chips. If you apply pressure to the chip, use something wooden like a chopstick or a pencil (dont use bamboo, it will release oils, use dry wood)
2. screen flicker -
The problem IS NOT a graphic chip (analogix), the problem is NOT CPU, as many have speculated in the past and the people who putt thermal paste over a CPU need serious education on the topic. Thermal paste is in no way a magical substance that lowers temperature when applied - it's purpose is to fill the gaps between a heating body (CPU) and heat dispenser (cooling unit, cooler, aluminum grill, etc), so thermal paste is a gap filler, not a cooling magical stuff. With that out of the picture, the problem of the screen flicker is a completely separate integrated circuit which goes haywire due to some magnetic stuff:
PERMANENT SOLUTION (homemade doable):
Now first, go back to motherboard image, and on the front side of the board find Gyro Sensor chip - just above that chip, there is a grid of 5x5 pin-like circuits.
http://i.imgsafe.org/1ba7e9ccc9.jpg
Now that you have located them, that is your LCD screen flicker solution: I didnt quite understand what is really going on there, but you need to apply heat (just like in the BSOD solution, same time same temperature), and use metallic object to "clean" the pins. He explained to me that the screen flicker is due to some magnetic residue that builds up in that circuits, and a clean metal will remove it. (how that is even possible I dont know but the solution works) Long story short - I used a really fine metallic brush (Dremel set) and once I heated it up, just strolled with brush over those pin-heads. According to the guy, the metallic object needed for cleaning should be non-magnetic. If you dont remove the screen flicker at first, use a really fine object to give all the pins a push (once heated), I used broken needle (regular needle is too sharp) or smallest Phillips screwdriver in my set. IMPORTANT: when doing this, there is a ton of chips nearby so it's smart to protect rest of the board with Alu-foil
total of my 5 screen flicker units NEVER went back to screen flicker issue. Special note: 2 of my units after completely removed screen flicker issue, immediately went to "no sim card" issue and I dont know how that is connected, but there is also a method for sim-card issue repair further down the topic
3. Wifi turning on/wifi grayed out/wifi scanning
The problem over here is also not the problem of the actual Wifi chip (motherboard image back side, red mark). The problem is the power controller located on the front side (red mark). It is also a BGA solder issue so it's repairable
permanent solution: reball or replace chip in proper mobile service shop
semi-permanent solluton: Use the same method of repairing as for the BSOD problem, but with applying heat + pressure onto the power controller chip. Be careful as there are tons of IC's nearby. Homemade solution worked partially for me - one unit (out of 2) is completely repaired, other unit actually went dead (I believe I gave it too much pressure, that was my first repair )
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
permanent solution: replace, reball or reflow in service shops (when I say replace, it makes sense as new chips out of the box have BGA balls already on it, just need to place it and heat it up)
semi-permanent solution: same method goes like BSOD and wifi problems - apply heat and moderate pressure with wooden object. The problem with this one is that it will reappear as a problem. I had one unit in the service shop where the repair guy gave it some insane heat for 5-6 seconds while protecting rest of the board, and it was permanent, no sim problem any more. In homemade variant, the problem seems almost unable to fix, but you need to be persistent. sometimes it takes 4-5 tries for the phone (placing the board, and removing it again and so on is a pain in the arse) to recognize sim and after that you are good for a month or so, once it "catches" I gave it a try with a higher temperature / less time (200c, 30 seconds) and it shows better results, I dont need to try the board for 3-4-5 times until it recognizes the SIM, it's imediately good to go, but even with that it reappears after a month, 2 months, but sometimes after only couple of days
one unit is permanent (reflow in service shop), others (repaired screen flickers that went "no sim card" ) bug me still with reappearing SIM problem.
There you go, I wanted to share this with everyone so you people wouldnt lose your mind with paper tricks, ovens, and such, as G3 is still really powerful device and it would be bad for all the units to end up in a bin. I am using 3/32 version with fulmics and it works as any new 600 usd device, if G3 still works without a flaw there is really no need to go newer, not yet.
END NOTE: every attempt at trying this is on your own responsibility, I am not responsible if you fry your board, break your device, or tear your flex cables and such.
END NOTE2: in my experience, dont attempt to try the newly repaired board with battery less than 40%, I wont get into it right now but all Li-ion/Li-poly devices work at their best when there is a good charge
good luck with potential experiments fellow XDA people
Thank you for this thread, I'm sure it will help a lot of more technologically-minded users on XDA. As for me, I did have a sim card removed problem but thankfully it appeared within my warranty period so I took it to them and they replaced the entire PCB (MoBo).
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
@startswithPendswithOOH - you are right about everything, they really have crappy assembly. But for me, almost all of BSOD and screen flicker issues are repairable in the home conditions using methods from original post. Luckily I do have a professional heat gun so I can even experiment on the temperature and time of heating and my repair rate is great (fortunately I had 15 devices to experiment on). I actually made some money of it, sold almost all of them that were repaired and not a single buyer called me back with a problem. My girlfriend and my nephew are going with my repaired G3s and they use it constantly. Especially my girl, she abuses it to the point that I get annoyed and remove all her running apps (sums up to 20+ ) cause she uses just 10 of some social apps and such, her phone should overheat and problems should reappear if it were not for a good repair. She usesd BSOD repaired device and didnt have one for 4 months now
Update on possible solution for the sim card problem
I did a little tempering with a piece of dry wood, and I made it EXACTLY into a shape of the square of the SIM card chip (described in the original post). I used a stick and shaped it with dremel sandpapering tool, to be exactly the size of the square. Then I putt a cloth underneath the board (so when applying pressure from the upper side you wont break some other stuff opposite) and made a pressure with wooden stick, approximately the force needed to pierce the styrofoam with index finger. That's about the strongest pressure you can give it, and not damage the board. heated it up with 200c with a heat gun for a minute
6th day without problems, without sim card failure, should be noted that I am abusing that board via data and calls going all the time and it seems the problem is solved, will report again in 3 weeks (full month)
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Sp3cTeR said:
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well I do - only problem with rear camera should be - replace rear camera :cyclops:
Oooooh, I stand corrected after a bit of google-ing. I see that it IS an actual problem with no solution, camera sometimes works, sometimes it doesnt. Well, it could be yet another chip on the board, actually the way people described the problem on Androidcentral forums, seems it's 100% a chip issue. If it was HW issue it would work or not work, this partial usability points to another motherboard problem
anyways you should check all the stuff that should NOT be motherboard issue
1. camera module gone bad - replacement should be extremely cheap, check out service shops for spare or Aliexpress for mega-cheap spare, if you know how to open ask someone with G3 to replace cam modules for couple of days to check
2. camera flex cable - in the process of fiddling with the phone and removing motherboard several times, one can easily tear the flex cable of the cam, examine it
3. motherboard connector for camera - for this I really dont see even a remote chance of happening, but im still mentioning it
4. software problem - eliminate the possibility of tempering with root access with files, by doing a factory reset
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
AKAndrew41 said:
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, the links arr down?
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
edit:it's back sorry if got anyone excited,i'm back to putting the pressure on the SOC
Thank bro u saved my device!
Updated : flickering to fading comes again after less than an hour with less usage , just charging it, so i tried heated up and put pressure again but this time on the processor.
Igoritza said:
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done mate, but according to service manual the chip you pointing with red arrow is NFC
Im bit confused now what it have to do with the sim
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
startswithPendswithOOH said:
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Preach on. Lol i got a g4 im in the lawsuit over
Yeah black screen comes back when the tmperature was hot. So its time to throw away this crap g3. Hopeless .
2 years ago a yellow coffe spot appeared on the top corner of my lg3 display, so i sent back to warranty and they changed the lcd screen.
Some month after the same coffe spot appear in the same area, i brought back the phone in warranty they changed the lcd. again
Now i have the problem for the 3rd time, im not in warranty anymore.
In my opinion is not the lcd, the lcd cant burn itself in that way, i think is a glue problem and maybe i can buy a new 13$ glass on amazon and replace it.
But before to risk to broke the phone, anyone experienced that?
This is an image i found on google image, is not my G3 but that explain my situation.
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L33TaS said:
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Khalid47 said:
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
Khalid47 said:
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
unbreakabl3 said:
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Khalid47 said:
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i meant how far away from the chip did you hold the hairdryer? 10cm, 20cm etc.
well I wanted to keep the phone going till the Fall lol.. and plus i didnt think that the replacement would have issues tbh. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into them.
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Heros2002 said:
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm thinking of doing this too but this is more of a "fix" for note 4's that's already experiencing emmc errors instead of a prevention. But putting a fresh thermal pad can't really do harm so I might try to do this.
mikel023 said:
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
prkfsz said:
I did replace a few motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
w41ru5 said:
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
prkfsz said:
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
prkfsz said:
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
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I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
mikel023 said:
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
prkfsz said:
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
mikel023 said:
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
prkfsz said:
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
mikel023 said:
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check thoroughly up close the integrity of the LCD directly under the glass. If it's broken, then there will sometimes be very tiny cracks in it.
But of course try and re-connect everything again. Don't forget the Little black screw on the left hand side of the MB when you're reconnecting it. Sometimes it won't work without that screw in place. Try also and remove the extra thermal pads you said you would install.
PS. There are LCDs for N4 on aliexpress that nowadays don't go for much. Tried several sorts and they usually work good.
If it's any consolation, the N4 is apparently one of the trickiest devices to work with…
I can confirm that, to some degree, snapdragon and exynos motherboards are compatible.
I had a N910A with a defective mobo and a N910U with a cracked screen. So I placed the N910U mobo in the N910A body. I used 910U modems and everything works fine, with the exception of s pen silo detection, which could be a result of this.